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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,880 --> 00:00:03,216 Tom ward (narrates): A Caribbean island 2 00:00:03,240 --> 00:00:05,840 once home to a powerful industry 3 00:00:05,880 --> 00:00:07,760 and a divided people. 4 00:00:09,040 --> 00:00:10,640 They set fire to the one thing 5 00:00:10,680 --> 00:00:13,240 that the company really, really cares about. 6 00:00:14,840 --> 00:00:20,000 An isolated ghost town in america where dreams were made. 7 00:00:20,040 --> 00:00:21,720 This was simply not something 8 00:00:21,760 --> 00:00:25,800 you would expect to see 11,000 feet up. 9 00:00:25,840 --> 00:00:29,760 It demonstrates just how much wealth there was here. 10 00:00:31,560 --> 00:00:34,640 A waterlogged stronghold off england's coast 11 00:00:34,680 --> 00:00:36,960 born from a time of fear. 12 00:00:37,000 --> 00:00:39,600 At face value it looks like something 13 00:00:39,640 --> 00:00:42,360 from mad Max meets waterworld. 14 00:00:42,400 --> 00:00:43,680 What's it doing there? 15 00:00:44,960 --> 00:00:46,560 And in the mediterranean 16 00:00:46,600 --> 00:00:49,320 an ancient village caught in the crossfire. 17 00:00:50,560 --> 00:00:51,640 Neighbour feared neighbour, 18 00:00:51,680 --> 00:00:54,520 the atmosphere had changed it had become dangerous. 19 00:00:57,680 --> 00:00:59,200 Decaying relics... 20 00:01:01,800 --> 00:01:03,760 Ruins of lost worlds, 21 00:01:05,240 --> 00:01:08,960 sights haunted by the past, 22 00:01:09,000 --> 00:01:12,680 their secrets waiting to be revealed. 23 00:01:20,520 --> 00:01:24,600 High in the San Juan mountains in Colorado usa 24 00:01:24,640 --> 00:01:27,000 is a land of shattered dreams. 25 00:01:33,400 --> 00:01:35,280 It's strikingly beautiful 26 00:01:35,320 --> 00:01:39,600 and on a sunny day it's even idyllic 27 00:01:39,640 --> 00:01:40,880 but you can't help 28 00:01:40,920 --> 00:01:44,880 but wonder what this place looks like in the winter. 29 00:01:46,400 --> 00:01:51,560 For anyone living out here you have to be pretty resilient, 30 00:01:51,600 --> 00:01:54,240 the weathers here are fierce. 31 00:01:54,280 --> 00:01:59,800 Snowstorms, avalanches, freezing cold temperatures. 32 00:01:59,840 --> 00:02:01,080 It's not the normal place 33 00:02:01,120 --> 00:02:02,760 you'd expect people put buildings 34 00:02:02,800 --> 00:02:05,200 so there must have been a good reason for them to be there. 35 00:02:07,040 --> 00:02:10,280 From above it's clear that there was more to the site 36 00:02:10,320 --> 00:02:12,680 than the structures still standing today. 37 00:02:14,200 --> 00:02:18,520 As you come closer you see the outlines of streets, 38 00:02:18,560 --> 00:02:21,520 you see the foundations of old buildings. 39 00:02:22,880 --> 00:02:26,040 Clearly lots of effort was put into some of these, 40 00:02:26,080 --> 00:02:29,480 you've got some sort of quite ornate wooden structures, 41 00:02:29,520 --> 00:02:31,040 some really quite nice buildings. 42 00:02:32,400 --> 00:02:35,520 And others have seen better days, 43 00:02:35,560 --> 00:02:37,136 they look as if they have been destroyed 44 00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:39,720 by some other outside factor. 45 00:02:41,360 --> 00:02:44,200 What promise of riches first lured settlers 46 00:02:44,240 --> 00:02:45,920 to this inhospitable land? 47 00:02:47,400 --> 00:02:50,440 There must have been something that we can't see, 48 00:02:50,480 --> 00:02:54,080 something hidden from view that made all this effort 49 00:02:54,120 --> 00:02:58,760 in construction worthwhile but what was it and where did it go? 50 00:03:04,560 --> 00:03:06,800 David singer is a preservation expert 51 00:03:06,840 --> 00:03:09,120 and helps to look after what's left of the site. 52 00:03:11,520 --> 00:03:16,360 So, this building is a jail, it was built in 1882, 53 00:03:16,400 --> 00:03:19,000 this was law and order on the frontier. 54 00:03:19,040 --> 00:03:23,160 Buildings made of wood, but the planks are laid flat, 55 00:03:23,200 --> 00:03:25,600 so the walls are all six inches thick. 56 00:03:27,040 --> 00:03:30,160 People would try and break out of the jail of course, 57 00:03:30,200 --> 00:03:32,440 but people would try and break into the jail 58 00:03:32,480 --> 00:03:36,360 if they wanted to have their own kind of vigilante justice 59 00:03:36,400 --> 00:03:39,240 and, er, you know law and order was here 60 00:03:39,280 --> 00:03:42,680 but it was also taken in to your own hands occasionally. 61 00:03:46,840 --> 00:03:48,520 In the mid-19th century, 62 00:03:48,560 --> 00:03:50,160 the United States was a land 63 00:03:50,200 --> 00:03:53,960 gripped by wild optimism and naked greed. 64 00:03:54,000 --> 00:03:56,600 This place was a part of that story. 65 00:03:59,080 --> 00:04:02,720 Once the federal government opened up this land 66 00:04:02,760 --> 00:04:05,800 to western settlements it opened the floodgates, 67 00:04:05,840 --> 00:04:09,480 suddenly Americans were coming in from the east coast 68 00:04:09,520 --> 00:04:12,680 and immigrants were coming from other countries to seize 69 00:04:12,720 --> 00:04:16,640 whatever other opportunity this land had for them. 70 00:04:19,360 --> 00:04:23,280 Untamed frontiers like this were where fortune seekers 71 00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:26,400 chased the elusive American dream. 72 00:04:26,440 --> 00:04:28,160 Its impossible to overestimate 73 00:04:28,200 --> 00:04:32,240 how inhospitable an area this is, in 1884, 74 00:04:32,280 --> 00:04:38,120 a 23-day blizzard dumped 25 feet of snow 75 00:04:38,160 --> 00:04:39,320 on the region. 76 00:04:39,360 --> 00:04:41,600 People had to dig tunnels 77 00:04:41,640 --> 00:04:44,520 just to get from building to building. 78 00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:50,840 But what these people wanted was worth the terrible hardship. 79 00:04:52,600 --> 00:04:53,920 The San Juan mountains 80 00:04:53,960 --> 00:04:56,480 form part of the Colorado mineral belt 81 00:04:56,520 --> 00:05:01,240 and this is an area that's famous for hard rock ores 82 00:05:01,280 --> 00:05:05,160 caused by mineralisation associated with volcanic activity 83 00:05:05,200 --> 00:05:07,400 and what you find is, that this volcanic activity 84 00:05:07,440 --> 00:05:12,080 caused veins of gold, silver, lead, copper rich material 85 00:05:12,120 --> 00:05:16,120 to be intruded into the rocks around them, 86 00:05:16,160 --> 00:05:18,456 but its actually very, very hard to get this material out 87 00:05:18,480 --> 00:05:20,200 because it's in the solid geology. 88 00:05:21,680 --> 00:05:25,920 As early as 1873 some groups had started to explore 89 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,680 the animas river 90 00:05:27,720 --> 00:05:32,960 and gold and silver deposits were discovered pretty early on. 91 00:05:33,000 --> 00:05:37,520 Log cabins started to sprout up, scattered all around the place, 92 00:05:37,560 --> 00:05:41,760 and within a year or so the animas river area had become 93 00:05:41,800 --> 00:05:47,200 a central focus of hard rock silver and gold mining. 94 00:05:47,240 --> 00:05:52,080 This is animas forks a remote mining boomtown 95 00:05:52,120 --> 00:05:54,560 built on the promise of precious metals. 96 00:05:57,160 --> 00:06:00,360 This would have been the main street area, 97 00:06:00,400 --> 00:06:03,600 there are two streets, little street and hanson. 98 00:06:03,640 --> 00:06:07,200 This area would have been bustling with miners 99 00:06:07,240 --> 00:06:11,560 going to work in the mills and the mines, 100 00:06:11,600 --> 00:06:14,680 carts full of equipment and materials. 101 00:06:14,720 --> 00:06:18,440 Kids playing, children going off to school. 102 00:06:22,040 --> 00:06:24,600 Perched at around 11,000 feet 103 00:06:24,640 --> 00:06:27,040 this was one of the highest altitude mining towns 104 00:06:27,080 --> 00:06:28,120 in the country. 105 00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:34,520 Animas forks became a substantial town over a time, 106 00:06:34,560 --> 00:06:37,600 but it really began to see some of its biggest developments 107 00:06:37,640 --> 00:06:41,360 after the sawmill and lumber mill were created. 108 00:06:41,400 --> 00:06:46,520 The saw mill was producing over 4,000 pieces of board a day 109 00:06:46,560 --> 00:06:49,280 just so that it could accommodate the number of people 110 00:06:49,320 --> 00:06:50,680 who were here at the time. 111 00:06:53,160 --> 00:06:56,400 Within three years there were 30 cabins, 112 00:06:56,440 --> 00:07:00,280 a general store, several saloons, 113 00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:02,840 a pharmacy, and a post office. 114 00:07:02,880 --> 00:07:05,800 Even had the kalamazoo hotel 115 00:07:05,840 --> 00:07:09,680 which was the grandest and largest building in the area, 116 00:07:09,720 --> 00:07:12,360 it also had the town's only telephone 117 00:07:12,400 --> 00:07:15,840 and this beautiful grand piano. 118 00:07:15,880 --> 00:07:19,320 Animas forks was a bustling Metropolis. 119 00:07:19,360 --> 00:07:23,720 In 1882 the animas forks pioneer 120 00:07:23,760 --> 00:07:25,000 began publication 121 00:07:25,040 --> 00:07:29,000 and it was the highest altitude printing press 122 00:07:29,040 --> 00:07:30,760 in the us at the time. 123 00:07:30,800 --> 00:07:34,720 Clearly this town was in it for the long haul. 124 00:07:37,440 --> 00:07:41,280 At its height 400 people called this place home. 125 00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:45,800 For one family drawn here theirs was a story 126 00:07:45,840 --> 00:07:48,640 that captured the reality of what towns like this 127 00:07:48,680 --> 00:07:50,200 were really all about. 128 00:07:52,960 --> 00:07:57,320 When the Duncans moved here in the late 1870s, 129 00:07:57,360 --> 00:08:00,680 they were considering this to be a place 130 00:08:00,720 --> 00:08:03,640 that was going to grow and develop 131 00:08:03,680 --> 00:08:08,800 and become a full-fledged town and so they built a home 132 00:08:08,840 --> 00:08:10,200 that was commensurate 133 00:08:10,240 --> 00:08:13,200 with modern living in the victorian era. 134 00:08:14,720 --> 00:08:17,720 The amazing views out into the mountains 135 00:08:17,760 --> 00:08:20,120 from this bay window were unrivalled 136 00:08:20,160 --> 00:08:23,960 for this kind of living having a bit of culture 137 00:08:24,000 --> 00:08:27,040 while you were kind of on the frontier as a pioneer. 138 00:08:28,960 --> 00:08:32,480 This was simply not something you would expect to see 139 00:08:32,520 --> 00:08:35,680 11,000 feet up the side of a steep mountain. 140 00:08:35,720 --> 00:08:38,920 And it demonstrates just how much wealth 141 00:08:38,960 --> 00:08:40,480 there was to be made here. 142 00:08:43,480 --> 00:08:48,040 But pride comes before a fall, and soon the Duncans 143 00:08:48,080 --> 00:08:52,040 and other townspeople would learn that lesson the hard way. 144 00:08:56,480 --> 00:08:58,400 The town's boom period 145 00:08:58,440 --> 00:09:03,560 came to a sudden end on October 22nd, 1891. 146 00:09:05,000 --> 00:09:09,640 A huge fire burned down most of the business district 147 00:09:09,680 --> 00:09:13,920 causing over $20,000 in damage. 148 00:09:13,960 --> 00:09:18,760 The fire actually originated in the kalamazoo house kitchen 149 00:09:18,800 --> 00:09:20,160 and then it ultimately ended up 150 00:09:20,200 --> 00:09:22,280 spreading throughout the rest of the town. 151 00:09:23,840 --> 00:09:27,960 And to add insult to injury mining had already begun to taper 152 00:09:28,000 --> 00:09:31,160 and so with these two things together 153 00:09:31,200 --> 00:09:35,920 this was a really crucial moment for the people of animas forks. 154 00:09:35,960 --> 00:09:38,440 Only five years after they arrived 155 00:09:38,480 --> 00:09:40,880 the Duncans left animas forks, 156 00:09:40,920 --> 00:09:43,960 their dream of striking it rich in tatters. 157 00:09:45,680 --> 00:09:48,480 But not everyone packed their belongings in such a hurry. 158 00:09:49,840 --> 00:09:51,760 The town kind of lay fallow for a while 159 00:09:51,800 --> 00:09:56,320 until it was revived again some time after 1904, 160 00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,800 when the gold prince mill was being constructed. 161 00:10:03,240 --> 00:10:05,000 This is a gravity-fed mill 162 00:10:05,040 --> 00:10:07,800 and so that's why you are seeing the foundation 163 00:10:07,840 --> 00:10:10,200 of this large building tiered 164 00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:13,040 as they did things to the order process. 165 00:10:14,960 --> 00:10:20,200 At its peak it had a 500 ton per day capacity, 166 00:10:20,240 --> 00:10:21,680 and it was fed ore 167 00:10:21,720 --> 00:10:23,800 by this incredibly impressive 168 00:10:23,840 --> 00:10:29,040 12,600 foot aerial tram line. 169 00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:33,240 And so this does reinvigorate life at animas forks 170 00:10:33,280 --> 00:10:35,960 and it does begin to draw more investors 171 00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:38,920 and more people back to this town. 172 00:10:41,600 --> 00:10:45,360 But making a living out here balanced on a constant knife edge. 173 00:10:46,840 --> 00:10:48,760 Things were going swimmingly and looked like 174 00:10:48,800 --> 00:10:50,440 things were improving a lot in this area 175 00:10:50,480 --> 00:10:53,160 until unfortunately the owners of the gold prince mill 176 00:10:53,200 --> 00:10:55,200 went bankrupt in 1907. 177 00:10:57,840 --> 00:11:01,240 When it was no longer profitable the town's days were numbered. 178 00:11:04,480 --> 00:11:08,560 After the gold prince mill closed down in 1910, 179 00:11:08,600 --> 00:11:09,600 people moved on 180 00:11:09,640 --> 00:11:14,240 and there was some sporadic repopulation here 181 00:11:14,280 --> 00:11:17,360 in the '20s and then the '60s, 182 00:11:17,400 --> 00:11:20,440 but the town was never occupied again. 183 00:11:25,160 --> 00:11:30,160 For centuries the pursuit of gold has driven humankind mad with greed. 184 00:11:31,440 --> 00:11:33,680 A hard life of feast or famine, 185 00:11:33,720 --> 00:11:37,680 that shaped not only the landscape but the world we live in today. 186 00:11:38,760 --> 00:11:41,160 It might seem that the story of animas forks 187 00:11:41,200 --> 00:11:45,560 is just another story of a boomtown gone bust, 188 00:11:45,600 --> 00:11:48,080 and sure in many ways it is, 189 00:11:48,120 --> 00:11:50,560 but it's also a story of lives made, 190 00:11:50,600 --> 00:11:53,080 lives lost in the process 191 00:11:53,120 --> 00:11:54,840 and we shouldn't forget that part of it. 192 00:11:59,680 --> 00:12:03,760 Off england's southern coast in the waters of the solent 193 00:12:03,800 --> 00:12:06,520 is a structure born in an age of fear. 194 00:12:14,720 --> 00:12:17,080 The first time I ever saw this 195 00:12:17,120 --> 00:12:22,320 I was sailing out of Portsmouth through the solent 196 00:12:22,360 --> 00:12:27,640 and there up ahead of us looked like it was an island. 197 00:12:27,680 --> 00:12:28,880 And we got closer 198 00:12:28,920 --> 00:12:32,680 and it can't be an island its too round. 199 00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:41,400 Its state of decay suggests this is no modern construction. 200 00:12:43,440 --> 00:12:46,400 This is really falling to pieces. 201 00:12:46,440 --> 00:12:49,080 The concrete is crumbling 202 00:12:49,120 --> 00:12:52,000 all the metal is corroded 203 00:12:52,040 --> 00:12:54,920 this has clearly been through some really tough years. 204 00:12:56,680 --> 00:12:59,680 Inside is a labyrinth of dark passages. 205 00:13:01,200 --> 00:13:03,000 And as you explore further you can see 206 00:13:03,040 --> 00:13:05,840 that there is a whole series of inter-connecting corridors, 207 00:13:05,880 --> 00:13:08,840 some of which are so tight you have to squeeze past, 208 00:13:08,880 --> 00:13:10,920 it's a real claustrophobic environment. 209 00:13:12,320 --> 00:13:15,280 It's unobstructed views of the surrounding waters 210 00:13:15,320 --> 00:13:18,360 are clearly key to its original purpose. 211 00:13:18,400 --> 00:13:20,640 But would it ever be called into action? 212 00:13:22,800 --> 00:13:26,480 That rather unique circular design 213 00:13:26,520 --> 00:13:32,280 is a really crucial clue as to what was going on here. 214 00:13:32,320 --> 00:13:34,520 Another important fact to consider 215 00:13:34,560 --> 00:13:39,080 is that there are other emplacements just like it. 216 00:13:39,120 --> 00:13:40,256 There has been a lot of thought 217 00:13:40,280 --> 00:13:45,200 put into this very tightly knit, very strong structure. 218 00:13:45,240 --> 00:13:47,040 Did it actually serve it's purpose? 219 00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:56,880 In times of war the United Kingdom 220 00:13:56,920 --> 00:13:59,800 has always had the advantage of being an island nation. 221 00:14:04,520 --> 00:14:08,680 This hulking mass of concrete was a vital part of the strategy 222 00:14:08,720 --> 00:14:10,720 to ward off foreign invaders. 223 00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:14,960 There are a number of things that were built on top of it, 224 00:14:15,000 --> 00:14:17,320 that are clearly from world war ii. 225 00:14:17,360 --> 00:14:20,840 There are outposts, there is place to put guns 226 00:14:20,880 --> 00:14:22,936 and its very reminiscent for many of the structures 227 00:14:22,960 --> 00:14:26,160 that we see along this coastal part of the UK. 228 00:14:28,680 --> 00:14:30,720 Dom hones lives nearby on the mainland 229 00:14:30,760 --> 00:14:33,520 and is an expert on this unique slice of history. 230 00:14:36,560 --> 00:14:38,840 We're downstairs in the cartridge cellar, 231 00:14:38,880 --> 00:14:41,560 which is the lower basement floor of the fort, 232 00:14:41,600 --> 00:14:43,040 and quite simply down here 233 00:14:43,080 --> 00:14:46,240 was where all of the ammunitions was initially stored 234 00:14:46,280 --> 00:14:48,840 before it was taken up to the high levels 235 00:14:48,880 --> 00:14:51,160 to the gun emplacements to be used. 236 00:14:51,200 --> 00:14:53,400 These stores here would have been absolutely packed 237 00:14:53,440 --> 00:14:56,160 in different size of shells depending on the erm, 238 00:14:56,200 --> 00:14:57,640 size of the gun. 239 00:14:57,680 --> 00:15:00,400 But literally they would have lined up against the wall 240 00:15:00,440 --> 00:15:02,360 er, they would be filled up in this space 241 00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:04,600 so the soldiers could come and get them erm, 242 00:15:04,640 --> 00:15:08,040 but literally in absolute mass of fire power 243 00:15:08,080 --> 00:15:09,640 in every one of these stores. 244 00:15:11,360 --> 00:15:15,440 The entire fort stood on top of a powder keg. 245 00:15:15,480 --> 00:15:19,080 But the design of these lower levels aim to minimise the risks. 246 00:15:20,200 --> 00:15:21,480 If you had an accident here 247 00:15:21,520 --> 00:15:25,160 and er, an explosion hit here it would be absolutely catastrophic. 248 00:15:25,200 --> 00:15:26,600 Having lots of different rooms, 249 00:15:26,640 --> 00:15:28,760 very thick walls around them as well er, 250 00:15:28,800 --> 00:15:31,081 meant that you know, if there was a problem or explosion 251 00:15:31,120 --> 00:15:32,160 it would limit the damage, 252 00:15:32,200 --> 00:15:35,080 you wouldn't lose sort of the entire basement floor. 253 00:15:37,080 --> 00:15:40,520 Clearly this structure was designed for war, 254 00:15:40,560 --> 00:15:41,960 but it doesn't seem strong enough 255 00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:44,280 to withstand the extraordinary fire power 256 00:15:44,320 --> 00:15:46,160 marshalled by the Nazis. 257 00:15:49,160 --> 00:15:51,520 This was not something that could withstand 258 00:15:51,560 --> 00:15:55,120 the type of warfare that was waged in world war ii 259 00:15:56,760 --> 00:15:59,360 I mean you could either just bomb it from the air 260 00:15:59,400 --> 00:16:02,560 or you could hit it with heavy shells from a warship. 261 00:16:04,600 --> 00:16:06,840 But these structures from world war ii 262 00:16:06,880 --> 00:16:10,040 are these built on something that pre-existed? 263 00:16:10,080 --> 00:16:11,080 And is that the key 264 00:16:11,120 --> 00:16:12,840 to what this place used to be used for? 265 00:16:16,640 --> 00:16:20,520 A century before Hitler's forces terrorised Europe 266 00:16:20,560 --> 00:16:23,600 the threat of invasion came from much closer to home. 267 00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:26,720 In the old days 268 00:16:26,760 --> 00:16:32,680 england's ancient enemy was France. 269 00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:38,480 And of the continental powers France is the closest one, 270 00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:39,920 its only a few miles 271 00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:42,080 across the English channel from britain. 272 00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:46,800 Construction here began in 1861. 273 00:16:48,600 --> 00:16:50,760 A time of heightened tension 274 00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:54,160 caused by an ambitious French family dynasty 275 00:16:54,200 --> 00:16:55,760 with a score to settle. 276 00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:01,320 France's new leader was Napoleon Bonaparte III. 277 00:17:01,360 --> 00:17:04,840 The nephew of the famous Napoleon Bonaparte 278 00:17:04,880 --> 00:17:07,720 who had fought an epic battle against britain 279 00:17:07,760 --> 00:17:12,480 before finally facing defeat at trafalgar and Waterloo. 280 00:17:12,520 --> 00:17:15,920 You can imagine why his descendant might hold 281 00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:19,000 just a little bit of a grudge against the British. 282 00:17:20,560 --> 00:17:23,160 The prime minister at the time Henry John temple, 283 00:17:23,200 --> 00:17:26,760 third viscount palmerston was a very popular man 284 00:17:26,800 --> 00:17:28,880 and he decreed that it would be useful 285 00:17:28,920 --> 00:17:31,360 to set up a series of defences 286 00:17:31,400 --> 00:17:33,880 against any potential attack from the sea. 287 00:17:35,640 --> 00:17:38,760 There was good reason to think an attack was imminent, 288 00:17:38,800 --> 00:17:39,920 the French were embarking 289 00:17:39,960 --> 00:17:42,640 on an aggressive ship building programme. 290 00:17:42,680 --> 00:17:46,040 Technologically advanced and unparalleled in its might. 291 00:17:47,800 --> 00:17:49,840 The French military was developed 292 00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:52,800 so that they had you know iron clad erm warships 293 00:17:52,840 --> 00:17:54,480 including la gloire. 294 00:17:56,800 --> 00:18:00,040 Britain had yet to develop an equivalent armoured warship, 295 00:18:00,080 --> 00:18:03,280 its ageing wooden fleet didn't stand a chance. 296 00:18:04,640 --> 00:18:09,080 The la gloire was a major threat to britain, 297 00:18:09,120 --> 00:18:11,560 palmerston knew that the French ironclad 298 00:18:11,600 --> 00:18:14,840 would sail right up a royal Navy fleet 299 00:18:14,880 --> 00:18:17,360 and that the cannons of those ships 300 00:18:17,400 --> 00:18:21,040 could do very little to dent the ironclad hull. 301 00:18:21,080 --> 00:18:23,960 Britain was put on the back foot almost over night. 302 00:18:24,000 --> 00:18:28,760 The ironclad was a kind of undefeatable super weapon. 303 00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:34,120 In response palmerston ordered a royal commission 304 00:18:34,160 --> 00:18:36,280 to assess the United Kingdom's ability 305 00:18:36,320 --> 00:18:38,920 to repel foreign invaders. 306 00:18:38,960 --> 00:18:41,280 Its findings spread panic. 307 00:18:43,240 --> 00:18:45,520 If you can't get the royal Navy 308 00:18:45,560 --> 00:18:51,320 to suddenly convert to ironclads you've got to defend 309 00:18:51,360 --> 00:18:54,280 the royal Navy's ports with something else. 310 00:18:54,320 --> 00:18:59,200 You've got to defend them using armoured fortresses instead. 311 00:19:03,320 --> 00:19:06,280 This is horse sand fort, 312 00:19:06,320 --> 00:19:09,120 one of a chain of four sea-based defences 313 00:19:09,160 --> 00:19:12,240 intended to protect the key naval position of Portsmouth 314 00:19:12,280 --> 00:19:14,240 from French attack. 315 00:19:14,280 --> 00:19:19,600 In today's money each stronghold costs around 40 million pounds. 316 00:19:19,640 --> 00:19:22,640 And they were part of a far larger nationwide plan 317 00:19:22,680 --> 00:19:25,840 that would come to define palmerston's time in office. 318 00:19:28,080 --> 00:19:30,440 It's difficult to build at sea at the best of times, 319 00:19:30,480 --> 00:19:33,400 you imagine how hard it must have been in the 1860s 320 00:19:33,440 --> 00:19:34,976 and what they would do is they would sail 321 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:37,920 these preformed concrete blocks out to the site 322 00:19:37,960 --> 00:19:40,080 and drop them to form the foundations 323 00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:42,280 on the sea floor and build up from there. 324 00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:44,640 And eventually you can build up out of the sea 325 00:19:44,680 --> 00:19:46,720 and build the structure of these fortresses. 326 00:19:49,600 --> 00:19:52,520 Above the foundation was the basement level 327 00:19:52,560 --> 00:19:56,440 divided radially into compartments for ammunition, 328 00:19:56,480 --> 00:19:58,600 the outer most passage was designed to allow 329 00:19:58,640 --> 00:20:02,280 additional armour to be bolted on to the exterior of the fort. 330 00:20:03,720 --> 00:20:05,800 When completed in 1880, 331 00:20:05,840 --> 00:20:07,120 there was enough fire power 332 00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:10,400 stored inside to sink any approaching fleet. 333 00:20:12,880 --> 00:20:16,040 So, here we have one of the gun emplacements 334 00:20:16,080 --> 00:20:21,880 there would have been 49 in total, 25 on one level, 24 on the other. 335 00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:25,160 And this is where the main gun emplacements were 336 00:20:25,200 --> 00:20:28,960 and the main fire power for the forts. 337 00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:30,000 Originally been up 338 00:20:30,040 --> 00:20:34,040 to 12.5 inch rifle muzzle loading guns, 339 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:37,520 huge, huge, sort of, 38 ton guns. 340 00:20:37,560 --> 00:20:40,600 In a period of battle all of these guns 341 00:20:40,640 --> 00:20:44,840 would be fully manned er, you know up to 600 soldiers 342 00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:47,040 er, maximum capacity on the fort 343 00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:49,176 er, and they would be running around with ammunition, 344 00:20:49,200 --> 00:20:51,440 running getting loading, getting ready to fire 345 00:20:51,480 --> 00:20:54,520 er, fire reload er, and a huge amount of effort 346 00:20:54,560 --> 00:20:56,240 er, and that would have all gone on here. 347 00:20:58,480 --> 00:21:00,120 On the fort's upper levels, 348 00:21:00,160 --> 00:21:02,480 the troops kept around the clock watch 349 00:21:02,520 --> 00:21:05,120 for any approaching enemy. 350 00:21:05,160 --> 00:21:07,480 The way that these forts were designed 351 00:21:07,520 --> 00:21:11,360 was that they created a line of defence 352 00:21:11,400 --> 00:21:14,160 across the entire solent that the French Navy 353 00:21:14,200 --> 00:21:17,000 would have to pass through in order to get to the shore. 354 00:21:18,440 --> 00:21:20,720 Had they attempted to get through 355 00:21:20,760 --> 00:21:21,816 they would have to come through 356 00:21:21,840 --> 00:21:23,760 between horse sand fort and no man's fort 357 00:21:23,800 --> 00:21:27,880 and they would have been obliterated from all angles in every area 358 00:21:27,920 --> 00:21:30,720 and stretch of water in between would have been covered. 359 00:21:30,760 --> 00:21:32,640 When the alarm sounded which could have been 360 00:21:32,680 --> 00:21:34,680 any time of day or night the soldiers 361 00:21:34,720 --> 00:21:37,080 er, had to you know, stop whatever they were doing and, 362 00:21:37,120 --> 00:21:39,400 and take the call to arms. 363 00:21:40,840 --> 00:21:43,560 But that call to arms, never came. 364 00:21:45,520 --> 00:21:47,720 In the early 20th century, 365 00:21:47,760 --> 00:21:50,720 the dynamics of britain's relationship 366 00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:56,000 to its continental allies shifted dramatically. 367 00:21:56,040 --> 00:21:57,600 The unification of Germany 368 00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:01,560 really changed the equation on the continent. 369 00:22:03,360 --> 00:22:08,960 Lord palmerston gears up for French attack that never comes, 370 00:22:09,000 --> 00:22:12,520 the crisis and relations with the French passes 371 00:22:12,560 --> 00:22:16,880 and in fact the French and the British come together 372 00:22:16,920 --> 00:22:22,000 in the middle of the 19th century and are as close allies 373 00:22:22,040 --> 00:22:27,360 as two nations can be for decades. 374 00:22:27,400 --> 00:22:30,280 For the man that ordered construction of the forts, 375 00:22:30,320 --> 00:22:33,440 these defences became a damming part of his legacy. 376 00:22:36,200 --> 00:22:39,400 The official title is the solent fort, 377 00:22:39,440 --> 00:22:40,760 but while they were built, 378 00:22:40,800 --> 00:22:45,400 they were given a different name by a derisive press, 379 00:22:45,440 --> 00:22:47,800 they were called palmerston's follies. 380 00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:55,960 And palmerston's ambitious to his defence building programme 381 00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:58,040 didn't end there. 382 00:22:58,080 --> 00:22:59,440 Across the south coast 383 00:22:59,480 --> 00:23:02,640 more than 80 forts were commissioned to this day 384 00:23:02,680 --> 00:23:06,160 it was the single most expensive military project 385 00:23:06,200 --> 00:23:08,680 undertaken by britain during peace time. 386 00:23:10,040 --> 00:23:15,080 Palmerston saw a potential threat from France. 387 00:23:15,120 --> 00:23:20,440 With hindsight you might say that lord palmerston was foolish 388 00:23:20,480 --> 00:23:22,960 to build all of those fortresses 389 00:23:23,000 --> 00:23:26,280 with a massive investment of national wealth, 390 00:23:26,320 --> 00:23:28,720 but only with hindsight. 391 00:23:30,400 --> 00:23:32,320 Even after the fort was repurposed 392 00:23:32,360 --> 00:23:35,480 for use in the first and then second world war, 393 00:23:35,520 --> 00:23:37,160 the guns stayed silent. 394 00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:44,440 There has never been a shot fired in anger from horse sand, 395 00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:47,040 the closest they got to it was during world war ii 396 00:23:47,080 --> 00:23:50,720 when one of the French war ships sought refuge in Portsmouth 397 00:23:50,760 --> 00:23:53,520 and that the only time the cannons on the forts 398 00:23:53,560 --> 00:23:55,440 were targeted on that ship 399 00:23:55,480 --> 00:23:58,360 just to ensure its safe passage into the harbour. 400 00:24:04,480 --> 00:24:08,000 A decade after the world's deadliest conflict ended, 401 00:24:08,040 --> 00:24:10,120 the fort was decommissioned, 402 00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:11,880 it still stands empty 403 00:24:11,920 --> 00:24:15,600 an ocean albatross motivated by fear. 404 00:24:15,640 --> 00:24:19,680 But horse sand fort may yet be given a renewed purpose. 405 00:24:21,960 --> 00:24:24,480 If you can turn these old forts 406 00:24:24,520 --> 00:24:27,160 into something nice, 407 00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:30,160 there is potential to make a lot of money. 408 00:24:30,200 --> 00:24:35,240 A lot of old British military office buildings, 409 00:24:35,280 --> 00:24:39,800 fortresses have been turned into luxury apartments 410 00:24:39,840 --> 00:24:42,840 and there's no reason why if you can work out 411 00:24:42,880 --> 00:24:44,880 the transport problems, 412 00:24:44,920 --> 00:24:47,800 you couldn't do that with these fortresses as well. 413 00:24:51,760 --> 00:24:57,000 On porta rico's southern shore stand the remains of a fallen giant. 414 00:25:05,360 --> 00:25:08,640 As you approach from the water you see 415 00:25:08,680 --> 00:25:12,760 what looks like a Caribbean paradise 416 00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:16,600 but as you get closer you see the vast ruins 417 00:25:16,640 --> 00:25:19,640 of some kind of big industrial enterprise. 418 00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:27,000 Those conveyor belts and chutes and chimneys, 419 00:25:27,040 --> 00:25:30,240 there is a massive pier heading out into the water, 420 00:25:30,280 --> 00:25:32,000 obviously we are taking something away, 421 00:25:32,040 --> 00:25:34,160 there is some transportation involved, 422 00:25:34,200 --> 00:25:35,960 but what was it for? 423 00:25:37,640 --> 00:25:40,520 Surrounding the industrial zone are clues 424 00:25:40,560 --> 00:25:43,840 that this operation was even bigger than it first appears. 425 00:25:46,320 --> 00:25:49,560 There is also signs that it is a typical town here, 426 00:25:49,600 --> 00:25:51,096 there is all sorts of little buildings, 427 00:25:51,120 --> 00:25:56,000 different shapes and sizes, some very domestic. 428 00:25:56,040 --> 00:25:58,920 Some clearly for the community. 429 00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:01,520 You see it looks like it might have been a hotel, 430 00:26:01,560 --> 00:26:04,320 everything built for those tropical conditions 431 00:26:04,360 --> 00:26:06,600 with large verandas, 432 00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:10,640 lots of big windows for the breezes to blow through. 433 00:26:11,960 --> 00:26:15,920 But the layout of this town suggests not all was as it seemed. 434 00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:20,120 Whatever this place was you can see 435 00:26:20,160 --> 00:26:22,600 that it obviously housed a lot of people, 436 00:26:22,640 --> 00:26:25,560 but there appears to be something off with it. 437 00:26:25,600 --> 00:26:26,600 You can spot 438 00:26:26,640 --> 00:26:29,440 that there is two very, very different standards 439 00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:30,520 of living. 440 00:26:32,280 --> 00:26:33,480 It almost seems like 441 00:26:33,520 --> 00:26:35,280 there was something dividing this town 442 00:26:35,320 --> 00:26:39,080 but what was it and where have all the people gone? 443 00:26:45,880 --> 00:26:49,400 The rusting structures that cling to the landscape today 444 00:26:49,440 --> 00:26:51,960 were once the beating heart of this island. 445 00:26:53,920 --> 00:26:56,920 Wilfredo Santiago lives nearby 446 00:26:56,960 --> 00:27:00,120 and is fascinated by this run-down site's past. 447 00:27:01,880 --> 00:27:03,600 So, I decided these facilities 448 00:27:03,640 --> 00:27:06,280 was basically creating tonnes of this powder 449 00:27:06,320 --> 00:27:08,360 that was in super high demand, 450 00:27:08,400 --> 00:27:13,240 basically sustaining the economy of the country for almost 100 years. 451 00:27:17,160 --> 00:27:19,360 So, right now we are standing at the central office, 452 00:27:19,400 --> 00:27:20,696 were basically filled with desks, 453 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:23,200 a lot of processes a lot of paperwork, 454 00:27:23,240 --> 00:27:24,880 it was the central hub of information, 455 00:27:24,920 --> 00:27:26,680 every process went through here. 456 00:27:26,720 --> 00:27:28,600 So, most of the workers here 457 00:27:28,640 --> 00:27:30,400 in the central office were Americans, 458 00:27:30,440 --> 00:27:32,200 where there were figures of power. 459 00:27:34,840 --> 00:27:39,400 For four centuries Puerto Rico had been a Spanish colony, 460 00:27:39,440 --> 00:27:42,160 but as the 19th century drew to a close, 461 00:27:42,200 --> 00:27:44,040 a new superpower emerged 462 00:27:44,080 --> 00:27:46,560 that would change the course of the island's history. 463 00:27:47,800 --> 00:27:51,920 In 1898, a very short but intense war started 464 00:27:51,960 --> 00:27:55,440 between Spain and the United States. 465 00:27:55,480 --> 00:27:58,280 Within a year Spain had decided 466 00:27:58,320 --> 00:28:00,280 there was no way they could win this war 467 00:28:00,320 --> 00:28:03,480 and they actually granted the island of Puerto Rico 468 00:28:03,520 --> 00:28:05,720 to the United States. 469 00:28:05,760 --> 00:28:08,240 A lot of Americans saw Puerto Rico 470 00:28:08,280 --> 00:28:11,400 as a wonderful opportunity for investment. 471 00:28:13,080 --> 00:28:15,640 So, Ford & co, that's not the car people, 472 00:28:15,680 --> 00:28:16,680 a different Ford, 473 00:28:16,720 --> 00:28:22,160 acquired the land here and with it they decided to invest 474 00:28:22,200 --> 00:28:23,920 a huge amount of money 475 00:28:23,960 --> 00:28:27,440 in order to make an even bigger amount of money. 476 00:28:27,480 --> 00:28:29,320 Everything was centred around, 477 00:28:29,360 --> 00:28:31,880 and everything came to be 478 00:28:31,920 --> 00:28:34,520 because of one commodity, sugar. 479 00:28:36,080 --> 00:28:39,800 These are the ruins of central aguirre 480 00:28:39,840 --> 00:28:43,880 a company town built on sweet white gold. 481 00:28:46,440 --> 00:28:47,960 The employees worked sun to sun 482 00:28:48,000 --> 00:28:51,920 what they call it sol a sol, which was basically 6am to 6pm. 483 00:28:51,960 --> 00:28:53,920 And a lot of people there was no transportation 484 00:28:53,960 --> 00:28:56,480 so if you live pretty far away from the area 485 00:28:56,520 --> 00:28:59,000 you had to walk like one hour, two hours to get here, 486 00:28:59,040 --> 00:29:00,840 so you were using almost all your life 487 00:29:00,880 --> 00:29:02,960 working for a misery. 488 00:29:05,200 --> 00:29:06,960 Profit was everything 489 00:29:07,000 --> 00:29:08,720 and the surrounding neighbourhood grew 490 00:29:08,760 --> 00:29:11,600 to support the booming industry. 491 00:29:11,640 --> 00:29:13,280 You can't run a place like this, 492 00:29:13,320 --> 00:29:17,160 just on a factory you need all the extra supporting stuff, 493 00:29:17,200 --> 00:29:22,480 you need a town hospital, schools, places to workshop 494 00:29:22,520 --> 00:29:27,720 it had the lot absolutely tied to the factory at its heart. 495 00:29:29,200 --> 00:29:33,160 By establishing these communities around the factories, 496 00:29:33,200 --> 00:29:34,720 factory owners were helping 497 00:29:34,760 --> 00:29:38,480 to ensure a consistent and stable labour force 498 00:29:38,520 --> 00:29:42,800 that in exchange for providing basic amenities and housing 499 00:29:42,840 --> 00:29:45,800 they hoped they could get a certain sense of loyalty 500 00:29:45,840 --> 00:29:47,480 from their workers and ensure 501 00:29:47,520 --> 00:29:49,400 that they were consistently showing up 502 00:29:49,440 --> 00:29:51,960 to do the job that they had on hand. 503 00:29:53,520 --> 00:29:57,480 So, in the early 20th century the aguirre plantation 504 00:29:57,520 --> 00:29:59,040 became the focus 505 00:29:59,080 --> 00:30:03,240 of a lot of very modern industrialisation. 506 00:30:03,280 --> 00:30:05,520 They realised if they could get the cane 507 00:30:05,560 --> 00:30:07,400 from the fields to the plant, 508 00:30:07,440 --> 00:30:10,360 crushed and processed and loaded onto ships 509 00:30:10,400 --> 00:30:13,680 with the fewest human hands possible, 510 00:30:13,720 --> 00:30:15,640 that would be the most cost-effective way 511 00:30:15,680 --> 00:30:18,000 to run the whole operation. 512 00:30:20,160 --> 00:30:24,320 By 1920, production increased to record levels 513 00:30:24,360 --> 00:30:28,440 generating over five million dollars per year. 514 00:30:28,480 --> 00:30:29,800 The population here swelled 515 00:30:29,840 --> 00:30:35,160 to almost 6,000 mostly employees of central aguirre. 516 00:30:35,200 --> 00:30:39,160 But for the workers a dark side would soon be revealed. 517 00:30:41,880 --> 00:30:45,040 In theory providing this community 518 00:30:45,080 --> 00:30:48,360 for workers is utopian 519 00:30:48,400 --> 00:30:53,400 but if we actually look at the site we see that there is segregation 520 00:30:53,440 --> 00:30:56,760 that runs rampant in the facility. 521 00:30:56,800 --> 00:31:01,840 Where the American overseers lived in these lovely houses 522 00:31:01,880 --> 00:31:05,680 they socialised strictly among themselves, 523 00:31:05,720 --> 00:31:07,880 and they had the best of everything. 524 00:31:07,920 --> 00:31:11,160 The people from Puerto Rico who lived there 525 00:31:11,200 --> 00:31:13,640 lived in very modest housing. 526 00:31:15,440 --> 00:31:18,360 The accommodation was of such poor construction, 527 00:31:18,400 --> 00:31:20,880 little of it survives to be seen today. 528 00:31:22,680 --> 00:31:26,200 So, here its not just about civil planning, 529 00:31:26,240 --> 00:31:28,640 making life beautiful for everybody, 530 00:31:28,680 --> 00:31:32,280 there is a hierarchy and there is apartheid. 531 00:31:32,320 --> 00:31:34,760 You've got one area that is for the Americans 532 00:31:34,800 --> 00:31:37,720 and you've got the other area that is for the locals. 533 00:31:39,920 --> 00:31:42,720 This division didn't stop at the housing. 534 00:31:42,760 --> 00:31:44,520 At the American hotel 535 00:31:44,560 --> 00:31:47,400 the deep-seated prejudice was painfully clear. 536 00:31:48,960 --> 00:31:49,960 It got to a point 537 00:31:50,000 --> 00:31:51,896 that if it a puerto rican snuck in or walked in 538 00:31:51,920 --> 00:31:54,520 and got into the pool they would completely dry it out 539 00:31:54,560 --> 00:31:56,560 and clean it so they could refill it, 540 00:31:56,600 --> 00:31:58,856 they basically had this idea that Puerto Ricans were dirty, 541 00:31:58,880 --> 00:32:01,400 were unhygienic and were filthy. 542 00:32:04,440 --> 00:32:07,640 For more than three decades, the sugar mill thrived, 543 00:32:07,680 --> 00:32:09,680 and profits soared. 544 00:32:09,720 --> 00:32:12,160 But it was all at the expense of the workers, 545 00:32:12,200 --> 00:32:14,960 segregated on their own island. 546 00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:17,040 In time the employees would fight back 547 00:32:17,080 --> 00:32:19,360 against the poor wages and mistreatment. 548 00:32:21,000 --> 00:32:24,320 Beginning on the 26th December 1934, 549 00:32:24,360 --> 00:32:29,720 a wave of strikes sets off across Puerto Rico, 550 00:32:29,760 --> 00:32:33,000 and this has huge implications 551 00:32:33,040 --> 00:32:35,720 for the sugar processing industry. 552 00:32:35,760 --> 00:32:38,160 They set fire to the one thing that the company 553 00:32:38,200 --> 00:32:40,160 really, really cares about 554 00:32:40,200 --> 00:32:43,280 in order to get people to pay attention. 555 00:32:43,320 --> 00:32:45,360 You have a number of workers 556 00:32:45,400 --> 00:32:50,640 who destroyed about 2,900 cords of sugar cane 557 00:32:50,680 --> 00:32:55,440 at an enormous loss to the factory and the factory owners. 558 00:32:55,480 --> 00:32:57,760 This was particularly catastrophic, 559 00:32:57,800 --> 00:32:59,880 but it was effective in that 560 00:32:59,920 --> 00:33:02,520 they were able to negotiate some better terms. 561 00:33:04,240 --> 00:33:06,800 Over the next decade it's a constant battle 562 00:33:06,840 --> 00:33:10,560 to improve worker's rights and conditions, 563 00:33:10,600 --> 00:33:13,480 balanced up against the new machinery 564 00:33:13,520 --> 00:33:14,920 that's being brought in. 565 00:33:14,960 --> 00:33:17,480 It was not until they started to unionise, 566 00:33:17,520 --> 00:33:20,480 and you know fight for the right for more money and more equal pay 567 00:33:20,520 --> 00:33:22,496 that they started to get a little bit more stable 568 00:33:22,520 --> 00:33:24,160 in the whole community. 569 00:33:26,640 --> 00:33:30,240 But their hard won rights didn't last for long. 570 00:33:30,280 --> 00:33:33,960 Despite continual efforts to modernise production 571 00:33:34,000 --> 00:33:37,440 the sugar industry here was entering a terminal decline. 572 00:33:39,840 --> 00:33:42,880 By the mid-60s the boom was ending, 573 00:33:42,920 --> 00:33:45,360 the end of the road was becoming visible, 574 00:33:45,400 --> 00:33:48,920 the price of sugar was collapsing. 575 00:33:48,960 --> 00:33:52,000 The American owners effectively abandoned the town 576 00:33:52,040 --> 00:33:55,640 and its taken on by the local and national government. 577 00:33:55,680 --> 00:33:58,840 But by 1993, the writing was on the wall, 578 00:33:58,880 --> 00:34:02,080 this was not a profit-making town anymore 579 00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:03,320 and the factory closed 580 00:34:03,360 --> 00:34:06,120 and with it the town just fell apart. 581 00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:13,000 Today the abandoned company town 582 00:34:13,040 --> 00:34:17,240 is no more than a ghost of Puerto Rico's colonial past. 583 00:34:18,440 --> 00:34:20,720 One of the first global trades 584 00:34:20,760 --> 00:34:24,640 that really affected normal people wasn't gold, 585 00:34:24,680 --> 00:34:27,680 it wasn't precious metals it was sugar. 586 00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:31,040 It's fascinating to see the remnants 587 00:34:31,080 --> 00:34:33,680 of what was once this thriving industry 588 00:34:33,720 --> 00:34:38,000 and also to understand the degree of exploitation 589 00:34:38,040 --> 00:34:40,160 that was involved in this business. 590 00:34:45,600 --> 00:34:49,480 In the eastern mediterranean sea on the island of Cyprus, 591 00:34:49,520 --> 00:34:53,000 is a collection of ruins tainted by tragedy. 592 00:35:00,120 --> 00:35:02,840 Among some pretty hills 593 00:35:02,880 --> 00:35:08,280 is a stone village this is not fancy, 594 00:35:08,320 --> 00:35:10,560 but it is absolutely clear 595 00:35:10,600 --> 00:35:14,240 from the way this has survived that the people 596 00:35:14,280 --> 00:35:18,960 who built this place built well, they built to last. 597 00:35:21,080 --> 00:35:24,080 Some stone stairways are still visible, 598 00:35:24,120 --> 00:35:29,040 and windows and doors give an idea of what the place used to look like. 599 00:35:29,080 --> 00:35:31,240 The odd assemblage of buildings 600 00:35:31,280 --> 00:35:33,720 that they could date from almost any era, 601 00:35:33,760 --> 00:35:37,600 some look quite old, some look less old. 602 00:35:37,640 --> 00:35:39,600 The sense you get from all of this 603 00:35:39,640 --> 00:35:41,800 is that this is a place that has been inhabited 604 00:35:41,840 --> 00:35:45,480 down the ages potentially by different cultures. 605 00:35:45,520 --> 00:35:47,880 And yet the people are all gone 606 00:35:47,920 --> 00:35:50,480 and this whole area would have been cultivated 607 00:35:50,520 --> 00:35:52,040 and yet now its empty. 608 00:35:54,480 --> 00:35:57,920 What story of sorrow weighs heavy on this land? 609 00:35:57,960 --> 00:36:00,640 And why is this village now abandoned? 610 00:36:02,200 --> 00:36:04,280 There was an underlying divide in the country 611 00:36:04,320 --> 00:36:06,800 which had been bubbling away for decades, 612 00:36:06,840 --> 00:36:07,920 came to the surface 613 00:36:07,960 --> 00:36:10,080 in the most violent and shocking way. 614 00:36:18,040 --> 00:36:21,120 For many locals traditional Christian belief 615 00:36:21,160 --> 00:36:24,440 lies at the heart of their community. 616 00:36:24,480 --> 00:36:28,400 Christodoulos papaminas is a farmer in the neighbouring village 617 00:36:28,440 --> 00:36:31,440 he fondly remembers the simple way of life here. 618 00:36:46,560 --> 00:36:51,480 In time events on the island would tear this village apart. 619 00:36:51,520 --> 00:36:55,760 A single building holds the key to its sudden abandonment. 620 00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:13,480 If we've got a mosque here in the village, 621 00:37:13,520 --> 00:37:16,400 this is a sign that this might have been 622 00:37:16,440 --> 00:37:19,600 not a Greek orthodox village 623 00:37:19,640 --> 00:37:23,000 but a Turkish Muslim village. 624 00:37:23,040 --> 00:37:25,000 And in the history of Cyprus 625 00:37:25,040 --> 00:37:28,640 and the recent history of Cyprus, that's significant. 626 00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:32,360 Cyprus had for many years been a country 627 00:37:32,400 --> 00:37:34,240 made up of two groups, 628 00:37:34,280 --> 00:37:37,480 the Turkish Cypriots and the Greek Cypriots. 629 00:37:37,520 --> 00:37:40,480 The Greek Cypriots are predominantly Christian orthodox 630 00:37:40,520 --> 00:37:43,720 whereas the Turkish Cypriots are predominantly Muslim. 631 00:37:43,760 --> 00:37:46,960 For many, many years they lived happily side by side. 632 00:37:48,360 --> 00:37:51,160 This is foinikas, 633 00:37:51,200 --> 00:37:54,440 a once idyllic mediterranean village. 634 00:37:54,480 --> 00:37:59,480 Within living memory, it was home to 235 people, 635 00:37:59,520 --> 00:38:03,160 yet life here was not always peaceful. 636 00:38:03,200 --> 00:38:06,000 Cyprus enjoys a really strategic location, 637 00:38:06,040 --> 00:38:09,240 and because of its key position in the mediterranean 638 00:38:09,280 --> 00:38:13,240 and because of its relatively flourishing economy 639 00:38:13,280 --> 00:38:14,920 and its good natural harbours, 640 00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:18,880 Cyprus was battled over by the powers for centuries, 641 00:38:18,920 --> 00:38:22,200 the Greeks, the romans, the venetians, the Turks. 642 00:38:25,920 --> 00:38:28,160 The run-down walls are evidence 643 00:38:28,200 --> 00:38:30,840 of one of the earliest occupying forces. 644 00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:35,040 In the 12th century the knights templar 645 00:38:35,080 --> 00:38:36,680 called this place home, 646 00:38:36,720 --> 00:38:38,760 they built the village from stones 647 00:38:38,800 --> 00:38:41,240 from the nearby vertical rock faces. 648 00:38:44,480 --> 00:38:47,320 During the violent era of the crusades, 649 00:38:47,360 --> 00:38:51,280 the knights templar protected European Christian travellers 650 00:38:51,320 --> 00:38:54,720 visiting sites in the Muslim controlled holy land. 651 00:38:56,920 --> 00:39:02,240 The templars want to control Cyprus 652 00:39:02,280 --> 00:39:04,840 because it will enable them 653 00:39:04,880 --> 00:39:07,720 to strengthen their control 654 00:39:07,760 --> 00:39:11,000 of middle eastern trade routes. 655 00:39:11,040 --> 00:39:12,800 So, the knights templar build 656 00:39:12,840 --> 00:39:14,920 what they call a commanderie 657 00:39:14,960 --> 00:39:20,520 that is a command post here in this village. 658 00:39:20,560 --> 00:39:24,320 It may have been founded at a time of religious conflict 659 00:39:24,360 --> 00:39:29,320 but over the centuries the people learned to live together. 660 00:39:29,360 --> 00:39:32,320 Over the years of coming to trade with fellow cattlemen 661 00:39:32,360 --> 00:39:34,600 christodoulos made many friends. 662 00:40:00,600 --> 00:40:02,480 But trouble was brewing 663 00:40:02,520 --> 00:40:03,960 the religious tensions 664 00:40:04,000 --> 00:40:06,920 central to the holy wars of the crusades 665 00:40:06,960 --> 00:40:09,600 would resurfaced hundreds of years later. 666 00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:14,640 So, this growing tension between the Greek christians 667 00:40:14,680 --> 00:40:20,040 and the Turkish muslims explodes into open warfare in 1974 668 00:40:20,080 --> 00:40:23,800 when the Greek government lead by a military junta 669 00:40:23,840 --> 00:40:25,960 decides you know we are going to annexe 670 00:40:26,000 --> 00:40:28,080 the island of Cyprus because its largely Greek, 671 00:40:28,120 --> 00:40:30,080 it belongs to Greece. 672 00:40:40,760 --> 00:40:42,600 Turkey's response 673 00:40:42,640 --> 00:40:47,800 to the Greek Cypriot nationalist coup d'etat 674 00:40:47,840 --> 00:40:53,200 is to seek to protect the Turks of Cyprus 675 00:40:53,240 --> 00:40:55,600 by invading Cyprus. 676 00:40:57,280 --> 00:40:59,960 The island instantly descended into violent chaos, 677 00:41:01,160 --> 00:41:03,840 in the fog of war both sides were guilty 678 00:41:03,880 --> 00:41:06,160 of committing unforgiveable atrocities. 679 00:41:07,960 --> 00:41:09,800 Now, neighbour feared neighbour, 680 00:41:09,840 --> 00:41:12,520 the atmosphere had changed it had become dangerous, 681 00:41:12,560 --> 00:41:16,600 what once had been a peaceful landscape of coexistence 682 00:41:16,640 --> 00:41:19,240 had been shattered, its such a waste. 683 00:41:20,840 --> 00:41:25,440 After 30 days bitter fighting a ceasefire was agreed 684 00:41:25,480 --> 00:41:28,920 soon after the country was divided. 685 00:41:28,960 --> 00:41:31,560 And as a condition of the ceasefire 686 00:41:31,600 --> 00:41:34,200 there were massive population transfers, 687 00:41:34,240 --> 00:41:36,720 tens of thousands of Greek christians 688 00:41:36,760 --> 00:41:41,080 migrated from the now Turkish zone in the north of the island. 689 00:41:41,120 --> 00:41:43,480 To the now Greek zone in the south of the island 690 00:41:43,520 --> 00:41:45,600 and the same thing happened on the other side. 691 00:41:46,760 --> 00:41:49,200 This village on the south of the island 692 00:41:49,240 --> 00:41:51,840 was now part of Greek held territory. 693 00:41:52,960 --> 00:41:54,800 The civilians of foinikas were caught 694 00:41:54,840 --> 00:41:58,280 in the middle of the chaos and had to decide what to do, 695 00:41:58,320 --> 00:42:00,720 it had been a Turkish village for years 696 00:42:00,760 --> 00:42:01,776 but now they were being told 697 00:42:01,800 --> 00:42:04,680 that they are on the wrong side of the border. 698 00:42:04,720 --> 00:42:08,800 Fearing reprisals, the Muslim occupants fled, 699 00:42:08,840 --> 00:42:11,160 christodoulos remembers only too well 700 00:42:11,200 --> 00:42:13,440 the trauma of this terrible period. 701 00:42:44,080 --> 00:42:46,240 Over four decades have past 702 00:42:46,280 --> 00:42:47,720 since the shocking events 703 00:42:47,760 --> 00:42:50,720 that transformed this mediterranean island. 704 00:42:50,760 --> 00:42:55,280 Yet Cyprus is still a country divided. 705 00:42:55,320 --> 00:42:57,520 The Turks of northern Cyprus are convinced 706 00:42:57,560 --> 00:43:00,600 that if they let their guard down for even a moment 707 00:43:00,640 --> 00:43:02,280 the Greeks will take over. 708 00:43:02,320 --> 00:43:04,160 The Greeks of Cyprus are convinced 709 00:43:04,200 --> 00:43:06,880 that if they let their guard down for even a moment 710 00:43:06,920 --> 00:43:08,960 the Turks will take over. 711 00:43:09,000 --> 00:43:13,560 And the partition of Cyprus remains 712 00:43:13,600 --> 00:43:18,280 part of the daily life of that island to this day. 713 00:43:22,680 --> 00:43:25,680 Captioned by ai-media ai-media. TV 58157

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