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Tom ward (narrates):
Abandoned, but not forgotten.
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Neglected, yet
known the world over.
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00:00:08,920 --> 00:00:12,120
Sites made famous
by global icons.
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00:00:13,440 --> 00:00:17,720
It was here where
someone truly became known
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00:00:17,760 --> 00:00:19,640
as the greatest.
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Where the repressed
took a stand for justice...
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00:00:26,480 --> 00:00:28,600
It's not just a place of infamy
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but a place of regeneration,
of reconciliation.
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..Where leaders inspired
generations to follow...
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When you know who spoke here,
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you feel a certain
weight of history.
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..Where revered heroes
revealed their darker sides.
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It was whispered
that men practiced
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00:00:49,560 --> 00:00:52,920
all manner of black magic and
satanic rights in these caves.
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Whether championed or condemned,
they've left a lasting legacy,
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these are the top 5 abandoned
haunts of heroes and villains.
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Decaying relics.
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Ruins of lost worlds.
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Sites haunted by the past,
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their secrets waiting
to be revealed.
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(Eerie music)
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At number 5
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in the Democratic
republic of the Congo
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are the remains of
an outlandish legacy.
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At the entrance of this complex
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is this really peculiar
looking Chinese pagoda.
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Whoever originally created this
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obviously did so
at great expense.
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00:02:02,800 --> 00:02:05,280
There's also a
more stately building
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00:02:05,320 --> 00:02:06,320
and you wonder
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whether it was commissioned
and built to house
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00:02:09,200 --> 00:02:10,520
very important visitors.
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Nearby in the country's
capital Kinshasa
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00:02:15,960 --> 00:02:17,960
stands a rundown stadium
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that once grabbed
the world's attention.
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This site in the heart
of tropical Africa,
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one of the greatest sports
heroes of the 20th century
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took centre stage.
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What World-Wide spectacle
connects the heroic gladiators
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00:02:37,320 --> 00:02:38,520
who fought here
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to one of Africa's
most despotic leaders?
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Kazuza bin kandolo has
worked here since the 1970s.
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(Speaking in foreign language)
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This grand edifice
was built by a man
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who seized power in 1965
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just five years after
the Congo broke
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from colonial rule.
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His name was Joseph
Desiree mobutu.
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Coming out of the chaos
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of the post-colonial era,
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arose this new country
with a new name Zaire
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and a new leader mobutu
who at first seemed like
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a very inspiring
man of the people.
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Mobutu was determined to bring
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00:03:44,280 --> 00:03:47,960
his newly independent country
of Zaire to global attention.
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To his people mobutu
was a saviour of sorts,
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he was supposed to help them
and guide them on this new path
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but it wouldn't be long
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before their opinions
of him would change.
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Mobutu was a man who
would stop at nothing for power.
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And the first signs of his
increasing megalomania
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are scattered around this site.
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He wanted a conference
centre, housing blocks,
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foreign dignitaries were
going to come from all over,
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he even had a four Lane
highway built to it from the airport.
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(Speaking foreign language)
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This is nesela palace,
mobutu's presidential domain.
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Covering almost 2,000 acres
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the compound is overlooked
by the magnificent pagoda,
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allegedly paid for
by the Chinese.
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00:04:54,920 --> 00:04:56,176
He has a certain
type of politics
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00:04:56,200 --> 00:04:57,976
in that alignment where
he really is just looking
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to attract resources to Zaire
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00:04:59,600 --> 00:05:01,640
and he's not really caring
where it's coming from.
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00:05:05,200 --> 00:05:08,800
Mobutu lured vips
from all over the world
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with the luxuries on
offer at this bizarre retreat.
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But he also presented
himself as a man of the people.
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(Speaking foreign language)
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What was meant to be a
show of power and wealth
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00:05:35,120 --> 00:05:40,240
and tremendous natural resources
and beauty actually disguised
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things that were
far more terrifying.
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Behind the scenes,
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mobutu was said to
be committing atrocities
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such as rape and torture.
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But he still wanted to
attract international attention.
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In 1974 mobutu hatched a plan
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to use a fallen sports
hero to do just that
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and his now abandoned
presidential domain
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would provide the perfect
facade to hue his ambition.
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He came up with a
perfect idea for an event
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that could do just that,
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that would really draw the
eyes of the world on to Zaire.
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Mobutu found what he
wanted in an unexpected arena,
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the world of heavyweight boxing.
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When it was announced
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that Muhammad Ali and George
foreman were going to fight,
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mobutu stepped forward
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volunteering the
country of Zaire.
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The people's president
stopped at nothing
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to get what he wanted.
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Despite the fact
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that people throughout
Zaire were starving,
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each of the fighters was
going to get paid $5 million.
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Mobutu cared far more
about how Zaire was perceived
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by the west
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then he did about the
sufferings of his own people.
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It's going to be a big,
big, big surprise this fight,
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big surprise, big shock,
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I'll be declared as the
greatest of all times, listen.
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The name that came
up with for the fight
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was the rumble in the jungle.
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Mobutu ensured his
compound would be fit for a king.
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And he invited both Ali and
foreman to dine with him in this palace.
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The boxers lived and
trained in buildings
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at the edge of the compound
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where the press were invited
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to watch them
prepare for the fight.
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They worked hard,
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every day to be ready
for this Titanic contest.
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The people of Zaire adored
Muhammad Ali for his love of Africa.
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I fight in Africa because
I'm fighting in my homeland,
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america's not my original homeland,
my original homeland is Africa.
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But back in the us Ali
had fallen from grace.
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Many people had
loved Muhammad Ali
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00:08:17,800 --> 00:08:21,640
because of his skill in the
boxing ring and his bravado.
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But he was also villainised
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by some for his outspoken ways
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for his resistance
to the Vietnam draft
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and for his association
with the nation of islam.
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This fight is really
important for Ali
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because it's a chance for
redemption quite literally.
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But at seven years younger,
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George foreman was
a formidable opponent.
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And the favourite to win.
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Muhammad Ali was
having none of it.
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Only last week I murdered
a rock in to a stone,
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hospitalised a brick, I'm so
mean I make medicine sick.
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I'm bad, fast.
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00:09:08,400 --> 00:09:10,840
Then, things took
a dramatic turn.
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During training George foreman
gets a horrible cut above his eye.
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The bout cannot happen
until that cut heals.
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Mobutu refused to let foreman
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leave the country for treatment,
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he was worried that once
he left he'd never return.
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The compound was
teaming with the world's press
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and mobutu ensured he
controlled what they saw.
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And with the fight
fast approaching,
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his efforts extended
beyond its walls.
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The contest would take place
in the capital's largest stadium.
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Mobutu was determined to show
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his country as a
crime free paradise,
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he sent a gruesome
warning to its criminals
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to ensure no
foreigners were attacked
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while the world's
press was watching.
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He rounds up 1,000 criminals,
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they're housed in the...
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In the bowels of the stadium
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and then 100 of them are
selected and executed, randomly.
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The boxers and the press were
unaware of mobutu's brutality,
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below the very stadium
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where the fight
would soon take place.
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On the night of
October 30, 1974,
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the two men met in
the ring at 4.30am.
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Mobutu himself actually
didn't attend the fight
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because he was afraid
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that he might be
assassinated in public.
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Ex-boxer kadima
Ibrahim was there.
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Along with most of the
60,000 strong crowd,
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he was rooting for Ali.
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(Speaking in foreign language)
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A global TV audience
of almost a billion
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watched as the bell rang
out and the two titans collided.
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Ali called that
strategy rope a dope,
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he didn't look like
he was really fighting,
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he was just allowing
himself to get pummelled.
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For seven punishing rounds,
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Ali absorbed foreman's
murderous barrages.
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Having been on the
ropes for most of the match
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he looked set to lose.
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00:12:17,440 --> 00:12:20,640
But by round 8
foreman was tiring.
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Ali seized his chance.
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Victory here changed
everything for Muhammad Ali.
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After this fight Ali was seen
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as an American champion,
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he had been despised and
loathed though much of the '60s
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but suddenly he was a
Victor for the American people
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and he was even
invited to the white house.
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Back in the Congo in 1997,
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mobutu was finally overthrown
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and his palace ransacked
in the ensuing chaos.
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He fled the country taking
millions of dollars with him.
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Today, the shattered
presidential domain
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00:13:36,640 --> 00:13:39,440
and shabby stadium
are fitting monuments
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to Joseph mobutu's corrupt rule.
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But these buildings will
always be associated
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with Muhammad Ali's
sporting greatness.
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This is a site
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that epitomises the
contrast of history.
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On one side you
have a terrible villain,
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00:14:00,280 --> 00:14:04,080
a person guilty of
tremendous crimes
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00:14:04,120 --> 00:14:07,600
and on the other
side you have a hero,
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a man who stood
up for his principles
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00:14:10,720 --> 00:14:14,720
and who fought one way or
another, every day of his life.
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00:14:21,400 --> 00:14:25,000
At number 4, a depraved
subterranean world
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that attracted a man
known as the first American.
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00:14:34,080 --> 00:14:38,000
There's this incredible
gothic entrance.
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00:14:39,080 --> 00:14:43,320
But you end up in these
sinister looking caves.
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Dark chambers with
heavy metal gates,
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almost like cells
are hidden away.
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00:14:49,120 --> 00:14:53,120
Here just 60 miles from
London an elite group
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gathered to indulge in dark arts
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00:14:55,640 --> 00:14:58,520
and to perform
scandalous pagan rituals.
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00:14:58,560 --> 00:15:00,080
It's a place of legend,
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world famous for the
debauched gatherings
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00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:04,720
that took place here.
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00:15:04,760 --> 00:15:06,880
There was one very
famous American
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00:15:06,920 --> 00:15:12,280
who was prepared to travel a
rather long way to join the party.
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00:15:12,320 --> 00:15:15,680
What stories make
these caves so infamous
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00:15:15,720 --> 00:15:18,720
and how would one of
america's founding fathers
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00:15:18,760 --> 00:15:20,800
become embroiled
in the controversy?
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00:15:25,960 --> 00:15:28,880
The origins of these
subterranean passageways
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00:15:28,920 --> 00:15:31,680
date back to the mid-1700s.
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00:15:31,720 --> 00:15:34,240
Jack orr is a
historian at the site.
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00:15:36,040 --> 00:15:39,160
These caves go a quarter
of a mile underground
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00:15:39,200 --> 00:15:42,680
and it's completely
100% man made.
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00:15:43,960 --> 00:15:48,800
This underground Warren is
known as the hellfire caves,
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home to one of the
most secretive societies
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00:15:51,560 --> 00:15:52,840
in British history.
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00:15:52,880 --> 00:15:54,000
The hellfire club
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00:15:54,040 --> 00:15:55,600
was made up of some
of the most famous
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00:15:55,640 --> 00:15:57,680
and respected men of the age,
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00:15:57,720 --> 00:15:59,520
it was whispered
that men practiced
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00:15:59,560 --> 00:16:03,720
all manner of black magic and
satanic rights in these caves.
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00:16:03,760 --> 00:16:07,280
It wasn't just dark
satanic worship
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00:16:07,320 --> 00:16:09,840
they also knew how to party.
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00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:13,920
Women were
brought in from London
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00:16:13,960 --> 00:16:16,440
to join the frolics
dressed as nuns
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00:16:16,480 --> 00:16:18,880
and comely local
nymphs were hired
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00:16:18,920 --> 00:16:21,320
and allegedly laid out on alters
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00:16:21,360 --> 00:16:24,120
so men could lick holy
wine from their navels.
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00:16:24,160 --> 00:16:26,160
(Dramatic music)
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00:16:27,360 --> 00:16:28,960
In the hellfire club's days
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00:16:29,000 --> 00:16:30,840
there would have
been curtains across
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00:16:30,880 --> 00:16:33,280
and beds inside this chamber.
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00:16:33,320 --> 00:16:36,320
If you look at the back wall,
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00:16:36,360 --> 00:16:40,120
we still have the
original tally marks
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00:16:40,160 --> 00:16:42,200
from where the men
were keeping score
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00:16:42,240 --> 00:16:43,760
when they took their...
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00:16:43,800 --> 00:16:45,440
Their prostitutes inside here.
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00:16:47,880 --> 00:16:50,280
The exclusive
club even attracted
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00:16:50,320 --> 00:16:53,360
one of the most eminent
men from across the Atlantic.
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00:16:54,760 --> 00:16:55,800
Benjamin Franklin,
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00:16:55,840 --> 00:16:58,560
one of the founding
fathers of the United States
254
00:16:58,600 --> 00:17:03,880
would frequently visit the UK
and when he did he would attend
255
00:17:03,920 --> 00:17:08,200
these scandalous
parties deep underground.
256
00:17:08,240 --> 00:17:12,560
Franklin loved the fun
prankish nature of the club
257
00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:13,760
that he found here,
258
00:17:13,800 --> 00:17:16,400
he often wrote home to
his friends in Philadelphia
259
00:17:16,440 --> 00:17:17,800
about the club.
260
00:17:19,200 --> 00:17:22,680
Word of the nefarious
activities of these powerful men
261
00:17:22,720 --> 00:17:26,120
soon leaked out in
to the wider world.
262
00:17:26,160 --> 00:17:28,280
The public outrage took its toll
263
00:17:28,320 --> 00:17:31,320
so in 1776 the club
was closed down.
264
00:17:31,360 --> 00:17:34,360
(Eerie music)
265
00:17:38,200 --> 00:17:40,680
With all his talk of virtue,
266
00:17:40,720 --> 00:17:43,080
Franklin's association
with these caves
267
00:17:43,120 --> 00:17:44,520
was hidden from view
268
00:17:44,560 --> 00:17:47,640
but the hellfire club
left an indelible Mark.
269
00:17:47,680 --> 00:17:50,680
Because of the dark,
debaucherous history
270
00:17:50,720 --> 00:17:52,520
of the hellfire
club they have left
271
00:17:52,560 --> 00:17:54,360
this lingering legacy behind
272
00:17:54,400 --> 00:17:55,760
and now we are meant to be
273
00:17:55,800 --> 00:17:59,320
one of the most haunted
sites in all of england.
274
00:18:02,320 --> 00:18:05,080
(Eerie music)
275
00:18:05,120 --> 00:18:08,440
At number 3, in
Johannesburg South Africa,
276
00:18:08,480 --> 00:18:09,800
is an eerie facility
277
00:18:09,840 --> 00:18:12,760
that once caged a
world changing hero.
278
00:18:17,880 --> 00:18:23,000
If these high thick
walls could talk,
279
00:18:23,040 --> 00:18:26,840
they would talk of injustice.
280
00:18:26,880 --> 00:18:29,960
You get a really
foreboding sense
281
00:18:30,000 --> 00:18:31,520
as you enter in to it
282
00:18:31,560 --> 00:18:34,640
to really wonder what
went on in this site.
283
00:18:36,720 --> 00:18:40,080
Divided into three
sinister compounds,
284
00:18:40,120 --> 00:18:42,800
each of these areas
has a distinct character.
285
00:18:45,320 --> 00:18:50,240
It's bleak and threatening and
designed to be soul destroying.
286
00:18:50,280 --> 00:18:54,760
This is an imposing edifice,
287
00:18:54,800 --> 00:18:58,440
a visible symbol of oppression.
288
00:19:01,320 --> 00:19:04,480
There are watch towers,
there's heavy barbed wire
289
00:19:04,520 --> 00:19:07,080
and there's bolted doors.
290
00:19:07,120 --> 00:19:09,320
But those who were
once trapped here
291
00:19:09,360 --> 00:19:13,120
would go on to
symbolise freedom itself.
292
00:19:13,160 --> 00:19:14,280
It's not just a...
293
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:16,400
A place of infamy
294
00:19:16,440 --> 00:19:19,240
but a place of regeneration
and reconciliation.
295
00:19:21,840 --> 00:19:25,920
So, what happened
inside these ominous walls
296
00:19:25,960 --> 00:19:29,200
and how did it take
one man from villain
297
00:19:29,240 --> 00:19:31,560
to the world's
most revered hero?
298
00:19:37,600 --> 00:19:43,160
This is constitution hill, a
complex of notorious prisons.
299
00:19:44,240 --> 00:19:48,240
Sibongile mkhabela was
once incarcerated here.
300
00:19:52,240 --> 00:19:53,400
It's really difficult today
301
00:19:53,440 --> 00:19:56,720
to tell you what happened
in these courtyards.
302
00:19:58,440 --> 00:19:59,760
And the cruelty.
303
00:20:02,240 --> 00:20:05,120
As I think to a large extent
the brain kind of shuts it off
304
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:06,880
otherwise we wouldn't survive.
305
00:20:09,400 --> 00:20:11,120
Constitution hill enforced
306
00:20:11,160 --> 00:20:14,080
a system of strict
racial segregation.
307
00:20:15,680 --> 00:20:19,200
It's strange that I
come back now,
308
00:20:19,240 --> 00:20:22,640
I still feel the anger,
the unfairness.
309
00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:28,560
This is a place where so
many women were held here.
310
00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:32,240
They would become criminals
311
00:20:32,280 --> 00:20:35,280
purely because they
were the wrong colour
312
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:38,400
and they were criminalised
for who they are.
313
00:20:39,960 --> 00:20:43,520
There must have
been over 60-70 women
314
00:20:43,560 --> 00:20:48,000
all on top of each
other in one small place
315
00:20:48,040 --> 00:20:50,080
that was not even
properly ventilated.
316
00:20:52,040 --> 00:20:54,320
I could hear their noise,
I could hear their pain,
317
00:20:54,360 --> 00:20:55,440
I could feel them.
318
00:20:58,080 --> 00:21:01,800
The first prison was
built here in 1893
319
00:21:01,840 --> 00:21:05,120
but sibongile and many
of her fellow inmates
320
00:21:05,160 --> 00:21:09,160
were victims of racist laws
bought in many years later.
321
00:21:09,200 --> 00:21:12,280
It was known as apartheid.
322
00:21:12,320 --> 00:21:14,320
(Eerie music)
323
00:21:15,360 --> 00:21:18,160
It's defined a
system of segregation
324
00:21:18,200 --> 00:21:19,560
in this country
325
00:21:19,600 --> 00:21:24,760
that extended itself to education
and hospitals and even beaches.
326
00:21:25,920 --> 00:21:27,440
The system of apartheid
327
00:21:27,480 --> 00:21:30,720
that was created was thorough,
it was total, it was complete,
328
00:21:30,760 --> 00:21:33,240
it was absolutely complete.
329
00:21:33,280 --> 00:21:36,720
The black South African
woke up to find himself
330
00:21:36,760 --> 00:21:39,640
a stranger in the
land of his birth.
331
00:21:41,040 --> 00:21:42,440
And so we're going to see
332
00:21:42,480 --> 00:21:46,080
a massive influx of these
people in these prisons.
333
00:21:49,520 --> 00:21:53,960
Today, dawn robertson
runs this 100 acre site
334
00:21:54,000 --> 00:21:55,800
which the apartheid system
335
00:21:55,840 --> 00:21:59,120
turned in to a place of
terror and humiliation.
336
00:22:02,160 --> 00:22:04,440
So, this prison complex
337
00:22:04,480 --> 00:22:06,280
is really a microcosm
338
00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:09,120
of South Africa in
terms of our history.
339
00:22:11,120 --> 00:22:15,920
The prisons were segregated
along apartheid lines.
340
00:22:15,960 --> 00:22:20,720
The buildings of the old fort
held white male prisoners.
341
00:22:20,760 --> 00:22:23,720
Prison number 4
black male prisoners.
342
00:22:25,680 --> 00:22:28,880
While women segregated
inside the building
343
00:22:28,920 --> 00:22:31,640
were held in the specially
built women's block.
344
00:22:39,880 --> 00:22:41,880
The infamous
South African police
345
00:22:41,920 --> 00:22:44,760
trawled the city's
impoverished townships
346
00:22:44,800 --> 00:22:48,600
hunting down those breaking
the country's racist laws.
347
00:22:51,760 --> 00:22:53,680
The people from the townships
348
00:22:53,720 --> 00:22:55,280
would have driven
through this tunnel,
349
00:22:55,320 --> 00:22:58,000
this door would
have been opened up
350
00:22:58,040 --> 00:23:00,880
and they would have
been bought into this space.
351
00:23:03,000 --> 00:23:04,216
They wouldn't know
where they were,
352
00:23:04,240 --> 00:23:06,240
it was in absolute
pitch blackness
353
00:23:06,280 --> 00:23:08,840
and the only light
they would actually see
354
00:23:08,880 --> 00:23:11,920
would be the lights that
came out of these little turrets.
355
00:23:11,960 --> 00:23:13,840
And on the other
side of these turrets
356
00:23:13,880 --> 00:23:15,640
would be wardens with guns.
357
00:23:17,640 --> 00:23:21,320
Ahead of them lay
an uncertain fate.
358
00:23:21,360 --> 00:23:23,560
So, now we are in
number four prison
359
00:23:23,600 --> 00:23:27,280
which is probably the
most notorious prison,
360
00:23:27,320 --> 00:23:29,240
er, in South Africa.
361
00:23:29,280 --> 00:23:30,960
This is the black male prison.
362
00:23:32,680 --> 00:23:36,840
In the 1960s with
apartheid brutally in force,
363
00:23:36,880 --> 00:23:39,680
this place was packed.
364
00:23:39,720 --> 00:23:41,640
Number four was designed to hold
365
00:23:41,680 --> 00:23:43,560
997 prisoners
366
00:23:43,600 --> 00:23:45,720
when it held over 2,000
367
00:23:45,760 --> 00:23:49,240
and so you can get a sense
of how overcrowded it was.
368
00:23:52,880 --> 00:23:55,560
Conditions in number
4 were appalling
369
00:23:55,600 --> 00:23:57,560
but the most
horrific punishments
370
00:23:57,600 --> 00:24:00,320
were carried out in
the prisons hospital.
371
00:24:01,840 --> 00:24:04,440
The law stated that you
could not lash anybody
372
00:24:04,480 --> 00:24:06,520
without the district
surgeon being present
373
00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:09,000
and the district surgeon would
have had his officers up here
374
00:24:09,040 --> 00:24:11,160
so the lashing room was up here.
375
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:15,200
It was this, this place where,
376
00:24:15,240 --> 00:24:17,080
you know, you would
be lashed and tortured.
377
00:24:19,200 --> 00:24:22,360
This is a space
that is cruel, it's...
378
00:24:22,400 --> 00:24:24,800
It's terrifying and
it's traumatising.
379
00:24:27,040 --> 00:24:29,680
Many were flung
in prison number 4
380
00:24:29,720 --> 00:24:33,960
for contravening an apartheid
policy called the past laws.
381
00:24:36,120 --> 00:24:38,400
The past laws severely limited
382
00:24:38,440 --> 00:24:42,200
the movement of
black South Africans.
383
00:24:42,240 --> 00:24:45,600
This is a legacy of
the slavery period,
384
00:24:45,640 --> 00:24:48,840
anyone caught
without their pass book
385
00:24:48,880 --> 00:24:52,160
could be immediately imprisoned.
386
00:24:52,200 --> 00:24:55,280
And where better
place to imprison them
387
00:24:55,320 --> 00:24:59,760
than behind the thick high
walls of constitution hill.
388
00:25:01,880 --> 00:25:06,920
By far the most famous person to
be held here was Nelson Mandela.
389
00:25:08,800 --> 00:25:11,720
Nelson Mandela
is a key activist,
390
00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:15,160
he becomes very
prominent in the 1940s.
391
00:25:16,360 --> 00:25:18,880
He advocated peaceful resistance
392
00:25:18,920 --> 00:25:23,520
against the national
party's racist laws.
393
00:25:23,560 --> 00:25:26,800
Mandela's policy of
non-violence shifted
394
00:25:26,840 --> 00:25:30,520
following the barbarous
sharpeville massacre.
395
00:25:30,560 --> 00:25:34,320
On march 21, 1960,
396
00:25:34,360 --> 00:25:36,440
in front of the
sharpeville police station
397
00:25:36,480 --> 00:25:39,960
you had around 7,000
black South Africans
398
00:25:40,000 --> 00:25:42,480
who were meeting and amassing.
399
00:25:44,440 --> 00:25:47,440
Police forces responded
to a demonstration
400
00:25:47,480 --> 00:25:51,120
with a hail of
submachine gun fire.
401
00:25:51,160 --> 00:25:54,480
You can just see dozens
of bodies on the ground.
402
00:25:54,520 --> 00:25:57,600
And these people were shot in
the back as they were running,
403
00:25:57,640 --> 00:26:01,080
they were fleeing and these
were peaceful protestors.
404
00:26:01,120 --> 00:26:05,560
In response to this mandela
publicly burned his pass.
405
00:26:05,600 --> 00:26:06,680
Thousands followed,
406
00:26:06,720 --> 00:26:09,440
marching to police stations,
burning their passes.
407
00:26:12,920 --> 00:26:16,800
1962, Nelson
Mandela was arrested
408
00:26:16,840 --> 00:26:18,800
and bought through
the forbidding gates
409
00:26:18,840 --> 00:26:20,200
of constitution hill.
410
00:26:23,520 --> 00:26:25,200
Mandela was not taken down
411
00:26:25,240 --> 00:26:26,520
to the number four prison
412
00:26:26,560 --> 00:26:29,280
where other black male
prisoners were held,
413
00:26:29,320 --> 00:26:31,360
he was rather held up here
414
00:26:31,400 --> 00:26:34,800
in our fort which is
a white male prison.
415
00:26:34,840 --> 00:26:37,920
They didn't want him
to serve as a model
416
00:26:37,960 --> 00:26:39,520
or an inspiration
to other prisoners.
417
00:26:41,080 --> 00:26:42,440
So, this is the courtyard
418
00:26:42,480 --> 00:26:45,760
of mandela's cell
where he was held,
419
00:26:45,800 --> 00:26:49,000
on the right here is
an old hospital ward
420
00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,440
and this was the place
where mandela was held.
421
00:26:51,480 --> 00:26:52,720
He talks about the fact
422
00:26:52,760 --> 00:26:55,240
that the guard actually
gave him a hospital bed.
423
00:26:56,880 --> 00:27:01,920
In 1964, mandela was
sentenced to life in prison.
424
00:27:01,960 --> 00:27:05,480
He would not see
freedom again for 26 years.
425
00:27:11,280 --> 00:27:15,280
Nelson Mandela was
finally released in 1990
426
00:27:15,320 --> 00:27:18,560
by which time South Africa
was a very different place.
427
00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:23,040
And 4 years later he
was elected president
428
00:27:23,080 --> 00:27:26,080
in the country's first
multi-racial election.
429
00:27:28,880 --> 00:27:31,640
Mandela's the
father of our nation.
430
00:27:33,520 --> 00:27:36,000
The fact that he was
incarcerated here
431
00:27:36,040 --> 00:27:37,160
is significant,
432
00:27:37,200 --> 00:27:38,920
not many people realise
433
00:27:38,960 --> 00:27:42,200
that this was a very,
very significant space
434
00:27:42,240 --> 00:27:43,320
for him.
435
00:27:45,280 --> 00:27:46,640
While president,
436
00:27:46,680 --> 00:27:50,200
mandela oversaw
plans to turn this site,
437
00:27:50,240 --> 00:27:53,680
once known for its
notorious injustices,
438
00:27:53,720 --> 00:27:57,240
in to the new constitutional
court of South Africa.
439
00:27:59,720 --> 00:28:01,200
It symbolised everything
440
00:28:01,240 --> 00:28:03,840
that we'd been
through as a nation.
441
00:28:03,880 --> 00:28:06,760
Because that's the
place of the worst indignity
442
00:28:06,800 --> 00:28:08,360
that this country has suffered
443
00:28:08,400 --> 00:28:10,640
but it's going to be
the place of hope.
444
00:28:15,840 --> 00:28:18,040
At number 2, in Brazil,
445
00:28:18,080 --> 00:28:19,800
deep in the Amazon rainforest
446
00:28:19,840 --> 00:28:22,680
is a utopian dream
frozen in time.
447
00:28:27,520 --> 00:28:31,320
An American style water
tower dominates the landscape.
448
00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:37,640
And the buildings here wouldn't
look out of place in a mid-western town.
449
00:28:39,520 --> 00:28:42,200
But why build this
remote outpost at all?
450
00:28:46,560 --> 00:28:48,920
The roots of this town
can be traced back
451
00:28:48,960 --> 00:28:50,560
to the technological revolution
452
00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:53,080
at the dawn of the 20th century
453
00:28:53,120 --> 00:28:56,760
and a giant of American
industry, Henry Ford.
454
00:28:59,680 --> 00:29:02,080
Ford's expansion
of the motor industry
455
00:29:02,120 --> 00:29:04,160
was hampered by
a global monopoly
456
00:29:04,200 --> 00:29:06,600
on the rubber he
needed for his tyres.
457
00:29:10,520 --> 00:29:14,440
His answer the problem
was this, fordlandia.
458
00:29:16,520 --> 00:29:18,760
The purpose of
building the town there
459
00:29:18,800 --> 00:29:21,000
would be to create a
rubber tree plantation
460
00:29:21,040 --> 00:29:24,280
in which a large
concentration of rubber trees
461
00:29:24,320 --> 00:29:27,440
could be cultivated and farmed
462
00:29:27,480 --> 00:29:29,480
as a cheap source
of rubber for tyres.
463
00:29:33,200 --> 00:29:36,680
In 1928 Ford began
his ambitious plan
464
00:29:36,720 --> 00:29:39,080
to create the largest
rubber plantation
465
00:29:39,120 --> 00:29:40,160
in the world.
466
00:30:00,800 --> 00:30:04,320
The facilities at fordlandia
were unprecedented
467
00:30:04,360 --> 00:30:05,840
but Henry Ford's insistence
468
00:30:05,880 --> 00:30:08,720
on a puritanical
mid-western lifestyle
469
00:30:08,760 --> 00:30:10,720
didn't go down well.
470
00:30:10,760 --> 00:30:13,240
They weren't allowed
to drink alcohol,
471
00:30:13,280 --> 00:30:14,880
they were expected garden,
472
00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:18,680
attend regular square
dances, eat specific food.
473
00:30:18,720 --> 00:30:21,880
Completely alien to the people
that were living in fordlandia.
474
00:30:32,920 --> 00:30:36,560
Ford's dream quickly
became a repressive nightmare
475
00:30:36,600 --> 00:30:38,440
for the towns' residents
476
00:30:38,480 --> 00:30:41,760
and in 1930 it
reached boiling point.
477
00:30:41,800 --> 00:30:44,320
The workers rebelled
and the Brazilian army
478
00:30:44,360 --> 00:30:46,760
had to be bought in
to restore the peace.
479
00:30:48,040 --> 00:30:49,360
The people of fordlandia
480
00:30:49,400 --> 00:30:51,120
just refused to live
in such a fashion
481
00:30:51,160 --> 00:30:53,760
that was so strict
and draconian.
482
00:30:55,120 --> 00:30:58,240
Ford's bid to industrialise
the biological world,
483
00:30:58,280 --> 00:30:59,640
faired little better.
484
00:31:02,040 --> 00:31:05,920
Packed unnaturally close
together in plantations,
485
00:31:05,960 --> 00:31:09,520
disease spread rapidly
through the rubber trees.
486
00:31:09,560 --> 00:31:11,880
But Ford's high
hopes for fordlandia
487
00:31:11,920 --> 00:31:14,440
finally came crashing down
488
00:31:14,480 --> 00:31:17,480
when synthetic rubber
flooded the market.
489
00:31:22,640 --> 00:31:28,000
In 1945, fordlandia was sold
back to the Brazilian government,
490
00:31:28,040 --> 00:31:33,000
its saw mill, hospital, houses
and streets were abandoned.
491
00:31:33,040 --> 00:31:36,960
For all of Henry Ford's
$20 million dollar investment,
492
00:31:37,000 --> 00:31:39,800
virtually no rubber
was produced.
493
00:31:43,720 --> 00:31:46,920
At number 1, in
Oakland, California
494
00:31:46,960 --> 00:31:51,520
a forgotten gem that holds traces
of a conflicted American hero.
495
00:31:56,120 --> 00:31:59,200
In the midst of
Oakland's urban sprawl
496
00:31:59,240 --> 00:32:02,920
is this massive white building.
497
00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:05,560
It's this huge
hulking structure,
498
00:32:05,600 --> 00:32:09,640
almost like a giant
concrete aircraft hangar.
499
00:32:09,680 --> 00:32:12,120
At first you might mistake it
500
00:32:12,160 --> 00:32:15,680
for a warehouse but
it's too ornate for that.
501
00:32:15,720 --> 00:32:17,920
This is maybe a
stadium of some sort
502
00:32:17,960 --> 00:32:21,600
but it seems pretty
highbrow for a stadium,
503
00:32:21,640 --> 00:32:25,520
there's definitely elements of
Neo classical architecture here.
504
00:32:26,760 --> 00:32:29,640
Once grand niches and statues
505
00:32:29,680 --> 00:32:32,480
are now surrounded
by fencing, graffiti
506
00:32:32,520 --> 00:32:35,120
and boarded up entrances.
507
00:32:35,160 --> 00:32:37,400
As ornate as the outside is,
508
00:32:37,440 --> 00:32:39,680
the inside is in
total disrepair,
509
00:32:39,720 --> 00:32:42,600
it looks like it's been
abandoned for years,
510
00:32:42,640 --> 00:32:45,120
possibly even decades.
511
00:32:45,160 --> 00:32:47,520
You can see seats
that are still intact
512
00:32:47,560 --> 00:32:50,760
but you can see also
trash in other places,
513
00:32:50,800 --> 00:32:53,200
you can see signs
of a very recent fire,
514
00:32:53,240 --> 00:32:55,800
that it's been vandalised
and broken into.
515
00:32:55,840 --> 00:32:59,120
And given the
scale of this place
516
00:32:59,160 --> 00:33:01,640
you have to think that
there were some pretty,
517
00:33:01,680 --> 00:33:03,280
er, iconic figures
518
00:33:03,320 --> 00:33:06,640
who must have spoken
to an audience this large.
519
00:33:07,840 --> 00:33:10,560
The atmosphere
in the whole arena
520
00:33:10,600 --> 00:33:15,040
was alive at all times, it
was like electricity here.
521
00:33:15,080 --> 00:33:18,320
Heroes to some,
villains to others
522
00:33:18,360 --> 00:33:20,560
in a fight that
started as a stand
523
00:33:20,600 --> 00:33:22,680
against police brutality
524
00:33:22,720 --> 00:33:25,600
a group of revolutionaries
took centre stage here
525
00:33:25,640 --> 00:33:28,520
and shook American
society to its core.
526
00:33:32,120 --> 00:33:36,520
Historian Billy Jennings
first came here in the 1960s
527
00:33:36,560 --> 00:33:38,720
to see the godfather of soul.
528
00:33:42,480 --> 00:33:44,920
Nobody had a ticket
and so we decided
529
00:33:44,960 --> 00:33:46,920
we were going to
jump the turnstile,
530
00:33:46,960 --> 00:33:50,400
we were dodging security
and we found empty seats.
531
00:33:52,760 --> 00:33:56,120
Billy would return to
this arena many times
532
00:33:56,160 --> 00:33:58,880
but he was no longer
dodging security.
533
00:33:58,920 --> 00:34:02,680
He was the security
for an organisation
534
00:34:02,720 --> 00:34:04,840
that would take
Oakland by storm.
535
00:34:09,200 --> 00:34:12,840
And it's roots were
sewed here in this arena.
536
00:34:12,880 --> 00:34:16,960
It opened in 1915 as
the Oakland auditorium,
537
00:34:17,000 --> 00:34:19,680
but it wasn't long before
this gathering place
538
00:34:19,720 --> 00:34:23,160
brought the cities racial
divisions into sharp focus.
539
00:34:24,680 --> 00:34:27,120
In the 1920s it actually hosted
540
00:34:27,160 --> 00:34:29,520
a massive ku klux klan rally.
541
00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:33,960
At this rally klan's
members came together
542
00:34:34,000 --> 00:34:36,320
for ceremonial cross burning.
543
00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:39,360
During the second world war,
544
00:34:39,400 --> 00:34:43,560
Oakland's burgeoning shipyards
drew an influx of African Americans
545
00:34:43,600 --> 00:34:45,160
from the south
546
00:34:45,200 --> 00:34:48,640
and in the racially
charged years of the 1960s
547
00:34:48,680 --> 00:34:52,600
tensions between Oakland's
predominantly white police force
548
00:34:52,640 --> 00:34:56,360
and its black
population were sky high.
549
00:34:56,400 --> 00:35:01,040
So, when one of america's
greatest orators took to this stage,
550
00:35:01,080 --> 00:35:03,720
his words fell
on fertile ground.
551
00:35:05,480 --> 00:35:07,880
In late 1962,
552
00:35:07,920 --> 00:35:10,280
Martin Luther King
gave a speech there
553
00:35:10,320 --> 00:35:15,320
commemorating the 100th anniversary
of the emancipation proclamation.
554
00:35:15,360 --> 00:35:19,760
Part of his speech was addressing
the need to boycott local companies
555
00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:21,480
that refused to hire
people of colour.
556
00:35:23,080 --> 00:35:26,520
King's focus that day
was wonder bread,
557
00:35:26,560 --> 00:35:30,240
one of america's most
famous food brands.
558
00:35:30,280 --> 00:35:32,160
King was an incredible
public speaker,
559
00:35:32,200 --> 00:35:36,000
he really knew how
to engage his audience
560
00:35:36,040 --> 00:35:37,640
but he also knew
how to turn a phrase
561
00:35:37,680 --> 00:35:40,920
and he had a good sense of
humour and what he said was,
562
00:35:40,960 --> 00:35:41,960
"we're going to make
563
00:35:42,000 --> 00:35:45,320
"wonder bread wonder
where the money went."
564
00:35:48,120 --> 00:35:50,160
The speech had a dramatic impact
565
00:35:50,200 --> 00:35:53,880
on one young man sitting
in the audience that day.
566
00:35:53,920 --> 00:35:56,160
His name was Bobby seale.
567
00:35:57,240 --> 00:36:01,720
But seale would take a less
mainstream view than king
568
00:36:01,760 --> 00:36:05,440
and he used this stage to
deliver a revolutionary message.
569
00:36:07,960 --> 00:36:10,800
And this passionate fire
brand would soon earn
570
00:36:10,840 --> 00:36:13,440
the unwelcome
attention of the FBI.
571
00:36:16,480 --> 00:36:20,160
Seale was very
moved by king's words
572
00:36:20,200 --> 00:36:23,600
but he took that message
in a different direction
573
00:36:23,640 --> 00:36:25,360
and a few years
later he would found
574
00:36:25,400 --> 00:36:28,200
the revolutionary
group the black panthers
575
00:36:28,240 --> 00:36:30,840
which was
headquartered in Oakland.
576
00:36:30,880 --> 00:36:33,440
That moment, that
speech, that space,
577
00:36:33,480 --> 00:36:36,200
he himself, seale
himself acknowledge
578
00:36:36,240 --> 00:36:39,040
was absolutely
foundational and instrumental
579
00:36:39,080 --> 00:36:42,080
in his own emergence
as an activist.
580
00:36:42,120 --> 00:36:44,760
In 1966, Bobby seale
581
00:36:44,800 --> 00:36:49,000
founded the black panthers
with college friend huey Newton
582
00:36:49,040 --> 00:36:52,720
to tackle the issue
of police brutality.
583
00:36:52,760 --> 00:36:54,960
Following the killing of an
unarmed young black man
584
00:36:55,000 --> 00:36:56,480
in the bay area,
585
00:36:56,520 --> 00:36:59,440
they decided to take
matters into their own hands.
586
00:37:03,240 --> 00:37:06,200
At its core the
black panther party
587
00:37:06,240 --> 00:37:09,760
advocated freedom by
any means necessary.
588
00:37:09,800 --> 00:37:11,280
So, they're carrying
guns in public,
589
00:37:11,320 --> 00:37:13,440
they're wearing leather,
they're wearing berets,
590
00:37:13,480 --> 00:37:15,880
they're wearing black,
they're wearing military boots.
591
00:37:17,240 --> 00:37:18,520
Was their vision radical?
592
00:37:18,560 --> 00:37:19,560
Absolutely.
593
00:37:19,600 --> 00:37:24,000
Were the black panther party members
rightly accused of violent crimes?
594
00:37:24,040 --> 00:37:25,240
Yes, they were.
595
00:37:25,280 --> 00:37:27,600
But and we have to
remember that this is a time
596
00:37:27,640 --> 00:37:31,200
when beatings and
extra judicial murder
597
00:37:31,240 --> 00:37:32,760
of black people
in america were...
598
00:37:32,800 --> 00:37:36,600
Were an everyday experience.
599
00:37:36,640 --> 00:37:39,600
The auditorium and
this area of Oakland
600
00:37:39,640 --> 00:37:43,240
would became the focal point
for a new black power movement
601
00:37:43,280 --> 00:37:45,080
with the panthers at its heart.
602
00:37:47,200 --> 00:37:49,440
But soon huey
Newton was arrested
603
00:37:49,480 --> 00:37:51,600
for the shooting
of a police officer,
604
00:37:51,640 --> 00:37:54,480
an allegation that was
overturned two years later.
605
00:37:59,120 --> 00:38:01,640
In the meantime, in 1968,
606
00:38:01,680 --> 00:38:04,680
Bobby seale and the panthers
descended on the auditorium
607
00:38:04,720 --> 00:38:06,680
to campaign for his release.
608
00:38:08,960 --> 00:38:11,600
This room was more
or less a dressing room,
609
00:38:11,640 --> 00:38:14,680
a green room for
Bobby being back here
610
00:38:14,720 --> 00:38:17,200
in preparation of his speech.
611
00:38:20,040 --> 00:38:23,080
Seal took to this
now dilapidated stage
612
00:38:23,120 --> 00:38:25,920
and reiterated the
black panthers manifesto.
613
00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:29,600
(Applause)
614
00:38:29,640 --> 00:38:31,520
Bobby seale, bring him on.
615
00:38:33,600 --> 00:38:37,480
Bobby seale: Brothers and sisters
I want to tonight have the chance
616
00:38:37,520 --> 00:38:39,520
to tell you in large mass
617
00:38:39,560 --> 00:38:44,600
something about the organising
of a black peoples party
618
00:38:44,640 --> 00:38:47,080
that dealt with black
people's problems.
619
00:38:47,120 --> 00:38:50,320
We want an immediate
end to police brutality
620
00:38:50,360 --> 00:38:52,000
and murder of black people.
621
00:38:52,040 --> 00:38:55,040
(Applause)
622
00:38:56,520 --> 00:38:59,400
That alignment on
that stage right there,
623
00:38:59,440 --> 00:39:03,000
kind of put this Oakland
auditorium on the map.
624
00:39:03,040 --> 00:39:06,400
That bought together an
alignment of black leaders
625
00:39:06,440 --> 00:39:09,560
that america had
never seen before,
626
00:39:09,600 --> 00:39:13,760
after that conference
and during huey's trial,
627
00:39:13,800 --> 00:39:17,320
black panther party
enjoyed a tremendous growth
628
00:39:17,360 --> 00:39:19,640
like we went from
one to two officers
629
00:39:19,680 --> 00:39:22,000
to 40 officers
throughout america.
630
00:39:23,680 --> 00:39:26,680
But with that growth
came unwanted attention.
631
00:39:28,840 --> 00:39:31,000
We had to be aware
of provocateurs,
632
00:39:31,040 --> 00:39:33,960
we had to be aware of people
starting trouble and we had, er,
633
00:39:34,000 --> 00:39:35,760
be aware of undercover police
634
00:39:35,800 --> 00:39:38,160
coming in to start
trouble, you know.
635
00:39:38,200 --> 00:39:40,360
So, we had to be on our
toes when we were down here.
636
00:39:43,000 --> 00:39:46,000
J Edgar hoover, head of the FBI
637
00:39:46,040 --> 00:39:49,800
wasted no time making the
panthers public enemy number one.
638
00:39:52,880 --> 00:39:55,000
And his counter
intelligence programme,
639
00:39:55,040 --> 00:39:56,560
or 'cointelpro',
640
00:39:56,600 --> 00:39:59,560
made the panthers
their number one target.
641
00:40:02,680 --> 00:40:04,600
Cointelpro infiltrated
642
00:40:04,640 --> 00:40:06,840
a range of civil
rights organisations
643
00:40:06,880 --> 00:40:08,400
including mainstream ones like
644
00:40:08,440 --> 00:40:10,016
the southern Christian
leadership conference
645
00:40:10,040 --> 00:40:11,200
that king led.
646
00:40:11,240 --> 00:40:14,200
But they really went after
the panthers with a vengeance.
647
00:40:14,240 --> 00:40:16,440
Seale was soon in court himself
648
00:40:16,480 --> 00:40:19,520
for the famous trial
of the Chicago 7
649
00:40:19,560 --> 00:40:23,160
on trumped up
charges of inciting a riot.
650
00:40:23,200 --> 00:40:24,520
And while in court,
651
00:40:24,560 --> 00:40:26,800
two fellow panthers
were assassinated
652
00:40:26,840 --> 00:40:28,240
by hoover's henchmen.
653
00:40:31,960 --> 00:40:34,280
After seale was
released from the trial
654
00:40:34,320 --> 00:40:37,520
the FBI had him
charged with murder,
655
00:40:37,560 --> 00:40:39,920
again the charges were dropped
656
00:40:39,960 --> 00:40:41,960
and Billy remembers
seale's triumphant
657
00:40:42,000 --> 00:40:44,840
return to this stage in 1971.
658
00:40:46,400 --> 00:40:49,000
He came back to
Oakland as a hero
659
00:40:49,040 --> 00:40:50,656
and when he announced
that he was going to run
660
00:40:50,680 --> 00:40:53,480
for mayor of Oakland
and took off his hat
661
00:40:53,520 --> 00:40:56,640
and threw it in to
the arena as a symbol
662
00:40:56,680 --> 00:41:00,120
of I'm entering this
race that was chilling.
663
00:41:01,480 --> 00:41:05,240
People was electrified, you
know, 'cause one of theirs,
664
00:41:05,280 --> 00:41:08,760
somebody they knew was
going to change the city
665
00:41:08,800 --> 00:41:11,120
and the whole arena went crazy.
666
00:41:12,360 --> 00:41:13,960
The party was starting to turn
667
00:41:14,000 --> 00:41:17,120
towards an embrace
of electoral politics
668
00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:19,080
and doing voter
registration drives.
669
00:41:23,280 --> 00:41:24,920
Seale used the auditorium
670
00:41:24,960 --> 00:41:27,160
to focus on his work
for the community.
671
00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:30,520
On this stage,
672
00:41:30,560 --> 00:41:35,600
Bobby seale, he asked
everybody to get in a single file line
673
00:41:35,640 --> 00:41:37,200
and we had panthers lined up,
674
00:41:37,240 --> 00:41:39,960
maybe about ten panthers
handing out bags of groceries
675
00:41:40,000 --> 00:41:41,280
to people
676
00:41:41,320 --> 00:41:46,280
but at the same time back
here in this area we had, er,
677
00:41:46,320 --> 00:41:49,040
tables set up to
register people to vote.
678
00:41:50,240 --> 00:41:53,080
They tested for
sickle cell anaemia,
679
00:41:53,120 --> 00:41:57,000
they held workshops for young
people known as panther cubs.
680
00:41:58,360 --> 00:42:02,000
Seale narrowly lost
his mayoral campaign
681
00:42:02,040 --> 00:42:05,160
but his efforts bought
about lasting change.
682
00:42:06,400 --> 00:42:08,800
Next election you
had asians running,
683
00:42:08,840 --> 00:42:11,000
you had Mexican
Americans running
684
00:42:11,040 --> 00:42:13,680
and you had women running,
Bobby opened the door.
685
00:42:13,720 --> 00:42:17,160
A young girl who worked out of
my office during the campaign,
686
00:42:17,200 --> 00:42:19,600
she's a house of
representatives right now.
687
00:42:21,520 --> 00:42:25,320
However splits in the
party fostered by the FBI
688
00:42:25,360 --> 00:42:30,560
soon followed and public support
for the panthers gradually declined.
689
00:42:30,600 --> 00:42:34,720
Just over a decade
later the party dissolved
690
00:42:34,760 --> 00:42:37,640
and the Oakland
auditorium later renamed
691
00:42:37,680 --> 00:42:41,960
the kaiser convention centre
experienced a similar decline.
692
00:42:46,720 --> 00:42:49,800
Today, the future of
the Oakland auditorium
693
00:42:49,840 --> 00:42:51,760
maybe uncertain
694
00:42:51,800 --> 00:42:56,960
but the black panther's message
has never been more relevant.
695
00:42:57,000 --> 00:42:58,696
The difference between
the black panther party
696
00:42:58,720 --> 00:43:01,160
and black lives matter is
that we had a programme,
697
00:43:01,200 --> 00:43:03,480
we're not just focused
on the police department,
698
00:43:03,520 --> 00:43:07,560
we were dealing with
hunger, healthcare, education
699
00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:11,160
but we command people
in the black lives matter
700
00:43:11,200 --> 00:43:13,480
for standing up and
doing the right thing.
701
00:43:14,640 --> 00:43:15,960
All power to the people.
702
00:43:16,000 --> 00:43:19,000
(Instrumental music)
703
00:43:26,320 --> 00:43:29,320
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