Original subtitles

Narrator: A decaying concrete jungle

of the northern border of the United States.

It's a series of tall vertical tubes,

completely dark, made of concrete, no windows.

A top-secret enclave in Belarus,

where hundreds of people once lived alongside great danger.

Perhaps this site was chosen exactly

because the forest makes it difficult to detect

what's really going on.

An isolated cluster of structures

that would bring tasmania into the modern world.

It was gonna take a lot of ingenuity

and some very hard-working people to make it happen.

And in Hong Kong,

a mountainside riddled with tunnels dug to defend an empire.

They're going to throw those grenades down into the trench,

wait for the bang and then dive in themselves

using their sword bayonets.

Decaying relics.

Ruins of lost worlds.

Sites haunted by the past...

..Their secrets waiting to be revealed.

In northeastern United States

at the edge of lake erie stands a city of stone.

People sometimes use the word concrete jungle to describe a city,

well, this really looks like a concrete jungle,

all you can see is concrete.

These structures are like mini skyscrapers

but they don't have any windows.

Inside these structures are a vertical maze.

These buildings are deserted.

They've been entirely stripped.

There's nothing left at least on the lower levels,

everything's been taken away.

Whatever work or activity was going on here,

it's clear that it stopped a long time ago.

Located in buffalo, New York state,

this set of buildings is intertwined with the city's past.

These are well removed from the city centre,

they're right on the edge of the city limits,

clustered around a bend in the buffalo river.

Buffalo is a city that's almost forgotten today

but in its heyday,

it was one of the most important cities in the us.

I keep coming back to this site because this is a magical place,

I feel spirits here.

Local resident Larry mruk

has explored this historic site extensively.

The first time I came to this place

I just remember, you know, like how abandoned it was,

how desolate it was.

Inside you see a series of these tall tubes

like some are made of concrete, some are made of steel,

it's very eerie, dark, your voice echoes.

There's nothing else quite like this.

We come across this almighty shaft

that seems to go up for hundreds of feet.

Whatever was happening here, it was a very large operation.

Most of the building is now empty

but on the highest level is a clue to its purpose.

Right now we're at the top of the American complex.

What we're seeing over here is all the conveyor belts

as if time stood still.

They're basically the transportation system.

There's this long open space with a conveyor belt

that stretches about 200 feet from one end to the other.

So we're 150 feet up in the air here.

The product that was brought up here

needed to be not only transported up here

but then had to be moved back and forth for some reason

using these conveyor belts.

The product they were moving was grain.

A commodity that turned the once quiet

frontier town of buffalo into a powerful Metropolis.

In the 19th century,

the United States really emerged as a major player

in the export market

and they were sending more goods than ever

back to Europe, the old world and beyond.

And buffalo would soon become central to the us export boom...

..But there was a problem.

Most of the commodities were being grown in the heartland

and there was no easy way to get those products to market.

You have a range of mountains blocking access to the east coast,

the roads were mostly just muddy tracks in those days

and the railroads were developing

but they really didn't have the capacity

to handle large quantities of goods.

To get produce to the east coast ports

the us invested in a new trade superhighway.

The solution to the problem was the erie canal

which was a 363-mile artificial waterway.

It was a huge man-made project

and it allowed goods to be transferred

from the central United States farming area

all the way to New York and then out to Europe and beyond,

and the beginning of that journey on the erie canal was buffalo.

Suddenly, buffalo became america's gateway

to the rest of the world.

Buffalo was the transfer point.

You had to unload the freighter, store that grain somehow

until you're ready to load it into a canal boat.

Trade through the erie canal turned buffalo into a powerhouse

with more millionaires per capita than any other city in the us.

But for the labourers here the work was dangerous.

When the ships docked in buffalo the only way to get the grain out

was by hand.

Men would go into the boats, scoop it into bushels,

each bushel weighed 60 pounds.

There were two bushels on each back,

he would carry it up about 65 feet to the top of the grain elevator

and then dump it in.

It would take sometimes a week to unload a ship

and these are smaller ships.

They got paid by the barrel

so they had an incentive to move as fast as possible,

it must have been back-breaking labour.

This device here is a bosun's chair.

A fellow young man usually 18, 19 would be put on the swing

and then they would hit the side of the silo with a broom or an oar

and loosen up the dust.

And one of the men who was on one of my tours

said that while he was working here for a two-year period,

three young men fell off of this and drowned in the silo.

And there were no employees' rights back then

but that was it, take it or leave it.

If you didn't want it there were 100 others who would.

Trading in grain was slow and hazardous,

but in 1843 a businessman in buffalo had a unique proposition.

Around the same time that the erie canal was being built,

an entrepreneur called Joseph dart came to buffalo

and he took a great interest in the grain industry.

He looked at the processes in place

and he thought he could do it better.

Joseph dart was an inventor and entrepreneur,

his idea was a grain elevator.

This here is the actual grain elevator,

this is a part that would swing out and into the boat,

go into the bottom of the boat

and bring the grain up to the top of the grain elevator.

Inside the swinging leg was a belt equipped with dozens of buckets.

The leg would be lowered into the boat's cargo hold

and a steam engine would turn the belt

carrying grain up by the bucket load.

It was an invention that transformed the grain business.

What would take a week to unload

could be done in a matter of maybe ten hours, 12 hours a boat.

More grain was now moving through buffalo than ever before.

Soon a dozen new concrete silos were built

giving this place its name,

silo city.

These buildings were built in early 1900s.

This one here was one of the first if not the first in the world

to be of its sort.

Silo city started to expand,

they had these vast windowless skyscrapers

that were used for storing the grain.

They also had facilities for processing

and milling the grain,

and even ovens the size of swimming pools

where they would roast vast amounts of grain.

In its heyday,

the city was processing 5 million tonnes of grain every year.

Buffalo went from being

one of the most important grain ports in the world

to the most important grain port in the world.

This was buffalo at its economic height

but it wasn't going to last.

In 1959 a new waterway opened,

a new version of the erie canal in a way, the st Lawrence seaway,

this was a system of canals and locks

that allowed ocean-going ships to come from the Atlantic

and sail directly into the Great Lakes.

When the st Lawrence waterway opened it made the erie canal irrelevant.

The new seaway took all the trade from the canal and silo city.

Buffalo was no longer the terminal to the world,

it was completely cut out of the deal.

Over the next 40 years, silo city slowly ground to a halt.

Nature's going to take these over someday,

it might be 400 years from now but nature will.

The examples of fern, trees growing out in the roughs,

moss growing.

And one time when I came up here I was up 12 storeys,

my friend the fox was waiting for me.

So it's going to happen.

Today many of the silos have been repurposed

as centres for art and history.

Monuments to buffalo's golden age.

On the western edge of Belarus

is a restricted area

hidden deep in the forest.

There's really no reason

to be this far out in the wilderness, you know,

this deep in the woods.

This is a remote area,

you would not want to be out here alone late at night.

Beyond the barriers and warning signs

are long deserted buildings.

You see the floors have been taken out for the lumber,

everything's falling apart.

The paint's chipped and peeling and gone.

A short distance away is a formation concrete structures,

buried in the earth.

Layout of these structures looks to be very important,

they're laid out

in a very precise arrangement of four

and there's a central structure connecting them all.

One of them still has the cover, the concrete blast shield over it,

the other has been removed.

You look down it's filled with muddy water.

This is Belarus,

a country with close ties to the former Soviet union.

Whatever was going on out here was dangerous,

it was shady and it was top secret.

A ten-mile drive from the nearest big town

is a dirt road on the edge of an unnamed forest.

Translation: "'No trespassing, danger ahead.'

"this facility was one of the most classified

"of the Soviet union.

"Its secrets were well kept by eight levels of security."

Colonel leonid spatkai served in the Belarusian air force.

Translation: "I've heard many stories about this place

"during my times in the Soviet army.

"However, I learned more about it from my comrades

"from the border guard.

"Unfortunately, they can't say much due to their obligations."

At the end of the dirt road sits a derelict neighbourhood

adorned with Soviet propaganda.

Translation: "On the left-hand side, there is Lenin's room,

"that's for sure.

"Only the leaders' portrait is lacking.

"Look, someone even left their shoes."

Inside the stairs are crumbling,

the ceiling is caving in in places,

just walking around inside here is dangerous.

Translation: "In this barrack,

"soldiers had a room dedicated to rest.

"On the left-hand side,

"they must have had something resembling a gym

"judging by bits of equipment left."

There was a large military base here

but it wasn't your typical military installation.

Their barracks and their living quarters

all had to be kept out of the view of the wandering eye

of a spy plane or even a hiker.

But what were the soldiers preparing for out here?

You're 1,000 miles from america's closest allies

in Western Europe.

It must have been something pretty dangerous.

It's said that 60 years ago the grass began to shrivel,

the trees changed colour and the mosquitos disappeared.

Translation: "The warrant officers responsible for that

"were telling me how in the span of a few hours

"everything around the station turned yellow

"because of the poisonous evaporations.

"Everything went dry because of the toxins."

Something was happening here

that even the soldiers were afraid to talk about.

A safe distance from the barracks

is a formation of evenly spaced concrete slabs.

What you see here is a very classic signature,

the sort of things spy satellites and spy planes would look for,

a very large clean symmetrical hole in the ground,

the opening to a missile silo.

Early in the cold war silos like these

were built across the Soviet union,

they housed missiles with deadly new payloads,

nuclear warheads.

In the beginning of the nuclear era, bombs were dropped from planes,

which required a plane getting into enemy territory

and planes aren't that fast either and they've got humans inside them.

Both sides figured out

that if you put that bomb on the end of a big missile

you've got a really effective killing machine.

That was the r-12 missile,

the heart of the Soviet nuclear arsenal.

So the r-12 known to NATO as the ss-4 sandal,

it was the iconic Soviet missile in the period.

They were mounted on trailers

and paraded in every mayday parade in Moscow.

This new missile ran on fuel that was easy to store,

it meant it could be ready to fire within minutes,

but there was a trade-off.

For all their terrifying power,

the r-12's only had a range of about 1,300 miles.

That may sound like far but it was barely enough range

to reach the targets that the Soviets wanted to take out

and the instance the nuclear war happened.

The r-12 was a medium-range missile,

the Soviet union was forced to mount them

on the very edge of its territory here at the dvina missile silo.

So still not within range of Washington or New York

but there the edge of Belarus territory

if they were aimed at say Rome or Paris or London

that's a target that they could hit.

In the event of an attack,

the soldiers at dvina would prepare the missiles for retaliation.

Translation: "Here we can see the remains of the cap,

"36 tonnes heavy.

"During the launch of the missile

"it was lifted by a big Jack and pushed aside on the rails."

Most people probably think of nuclear missiles

the way they're portrayed in movies,

the classic sort of doors over the ground sliding open

and a giant rocket coming out, but the r-12 did not work that way.

Translation: "The missile launching process was almost primitive,

"one could say.

"The missile was positioned vertically

"in order to set a target for it.

"There was no software back in the day

"so the only way to change its direction

"was to change the positioning of the stabilisers

"before it flies off."

It wasn't exactly a rapid response but no doubt about it

the r-12 was a very dangerous weapon.

But the r-12 wasn't only dangerous after its launch.

In dvina

one missile nearly caused a catastrophe.

The thing about being in charge of maintenance

for a nuclear missile

is that it's an incredibly dangerous piece of equipment.

It's essentially a bomb on another bomb.

The missile launches itself into the air with explosive fuel

and that fuel is incredibly toxic and dangerous.

Translation: "The rocket fuel itself is highly toxic,

"hence the remote tanking

"and highest security measures for the personnel.

"You know that it's like in Belarus, we like to rush things,

"and that fuel was poured into tank waggons.

"And everything went yellow

"and the birds stopped flying, as we say.

"The evaporation was tremendous.

"Thank god all those were taken out of Belarus territory.

"Currently, we don't have any of those elements left."

And that's scary stuff.

And that fear, not understanding what these missiles could do,

how they worked, their potential for destruction,

none of it was really understood well

even by the people who are working most closely with these objects

of mass destruction themselves.

For 20 years the r-12 missile was the Jewel of the Soviet arsenal,

but by 1978 it was obsolete.

Translation: "R-12 missiles were taken out of service

"when the focus was shifted towards mobile missiles

"which were cheaper

"and could be launched from any point."

It was a good thing that it was decommissioned when it was.

When they analysed the site after the decommissioning

they discovered that the ground was so unstable

that if any rockets had launched out of there

it would have caused everything to collapse inward,

detonating all the other rockets.

Those who were stationed at dvina still refuse to talk

about what happened here.

Colonel spatkai is one of the few

who keep the story of this place alive.

Translation: "The fact that

"the missiles never left their starting points,

"never flew off to their targets, that's a massive relief

"because otherwise

"if the cold war had turned into a nuclear war

"I don't think we would have been sitting here

"right now.

"Probably this place would have been a burnt off desert."

In east Asia on the edge of the south China sea,

Hong Kong is one of

the most densely populated places

on earth.

It's a city buzzing with life

and almost every inch of land that could have been built on

has been.

But the steep surrounding hills

are cloaked in thick subtropical forest.

You start up these steep rickety stairs

that take you deeper into the forest.

Gradually more and more structures can be seen in the undergrowth.

We can see vents, we can see tunnels,

we can see channels cut into the ground

and reinforced with concrete.

Someone has gone to great lengths to disguise this place.

A lot of the maps of these constructions

are outright wrong.

This is not an easy place to find.

There's evidence that it was attacked

and below ground, surprising carvings Mark the walls.

The deeper you go into the tunnels the spookier it becomes

and then you see the names carved into the concrete,

it's bizarre.

Local historian Jason wordie

has been studying this site for years.

The names etched into the concrete

point to who built these structures.

They have some rather curious incisions

at the entrances which Mark out piccadilly,

charing cross, Oxford street, haymarket.

On the top of a hill on the edge of China,

you've got these tunnels named after English streets,

street names from soho and London's west end.

This complex was built by the British

who'd had a foothold in the region since the mid-19th century.

The British had gotten fat on Hong Kong,

taking it during the opium wars in the 1840s

and keeping it as a principled naval base

and also as a trading centre ever since.

The British took control of Hong Kong in 1841.

But this site was much more recent.

We can date it more or less accurately

because the fortifications look so similar

to fortification on the German border with France

built in the 1930s.

This British defence system protected Hong Kong,

and it soon became known as the gin drinkers line.

Further down below and off in the distance

what was gin drinkers bay from which this takes its name.

The gin drinkers line has prepared emplacements,

it has bastions, it has tunnels

so that you can move from position to position

without being exposed to artillery fire.

The street names chiselled into the tunnels here

had an important purpose.

It wasn't just a quaint colonial affectation

naming it like this, there was logic to it.

The unit which extensively trained on this

when it was laid out

was the first battalion the middlesex regiment.

Now the recruiting area for the middlesex regiment

was central London.

On this side you can just see regent street,

regent street again will lead up to Oxford street.

So for someone familiar with the London street pattern

as the first battalion the middlesex were,

this has an interior logic to it which makes sense.

The idea was that in the panic of war,

soldiers would navigate their way through the complex tunnel system

without hesitation.

And one name marks a key location:

The strand palace hotel.

And here we are

in the observation post of the shing mun redoubt

codename the strand palace hotel.

The shing mun redoubt is the command post

where the commander of this defence line

will keep in close coordination with the surrounding fortifications,

knitting together this defence line.

Now the infantrymen would have known

that the strand palace hotel was the place to go

to look for information.

As this is the place they went in the 1930s

to peek in through the windows

and see what the rich and famous were up to.

The gin drinkers line took two years to build

and included a much-needed ventilation system.

Now ventilation shafts are dotted

along the entire length of the tunnel system.

Now the kinds of explosive were still in use in the mid-1930s

when this was laid out, they generated a lot of smoke.

But who did the British expect to attack?

The Japanese had invaded China in 1937.

By the outbreak of world war ii

they had set their sights on Hong Kong

and they knew just how to flush the British out.

The city has grown

on the back of artificially created water supplies,

so the issue of water

is a great vulnerability for Hong Kong.

Below the gin drinkers line

sits one of Hong Kong's main water supplies.

This reservoir was britain's weakest link.

So the main Japanese strategy was to capture the reservoir here

and if you capture that you turn off the taps.

The British angled their guns to protect their water supply.

But these defences would not hold the Japanese back forever.

The gin drinkers line was designed as a speed bump

to bog down an enemy attack

while larger numbers of troops could be rallied to Hong Kong.

Hong Kong was on a war footing for some months,

the office's buildings,

government buildings were sandbagged,

everyone was waiting for something to happen.

All hope lay in their top-secret defence system

but this was soon compromised.

The British crown colony of Hong Kong

has got a thriving population of Japanese business people,

Japanese merchants.

These were Japanese civilians

working in Hong Kong as agents, merchants, whatever

but were really spying for the Japanese government.

In December 1941 the Japanese finally attacked.

The Japanese decide to go all the way

and try to evict all of the European powers

from their east Asian colonies.

Within the space of three hours,

they attacked allied bases across Asia and the pacific

including Hong Kong.

The Japanese air force attacks Kai tak

the raf base in Hong Kong,

and they destroy the meagre raf assets on the ground.

And they wipe-out all the outdated British aircraft,

you know, leaving this Hong Kong Garrison

without any air cover.

One day later,

the Japanese knew where to find the gin drinkers line,

thanks to their network of spies.

The Japanese assault on the gin drinkers line

uses German world war I storm troop tactics

and that means they're not even going to bother with a rifle.

They're going to get their soldiers to get loads of grenades

and they're going to throw those grenades down

into the trench and tunnel system,

wait for the bang

and then dive in themselves using their sword bayonets,

their swords and just chop up anybody left inside.

It was chaos.

Inside the tunnel system the London codenames meant nothing

to the new soldiers brought in from Scotland and Canada

to defend the line.

They weren't familiar with the layout,

they weren't familiar with the tunnel names,

they were completely confused

and this only added to the Japanese advantage

of surprise

when they breached the line.

This is completely surrounded by an enemy,

it's pitch black.

There are people upstairs

who don't want you to survive.

Here we have blast damage

which was caused after a charge had been laid here,

blast, boom, in.

Original war damage in the top likewise shrapnel on the sides

where something clearly had detonated

and the damage is done on the wall.

There's damage done by small arms fire

to clear the corridor going in.

But not all the damage at this site tells the same story.

The whole place should have been blown apart

with debris scattered everywhere from the Japanese attack,

but they're not.

There are punches in the concrete

and that's because these holes weren't from the Japanese.

The British still had control of their artillery

on stonecutters island.

We've got shell holes, this came in afterwards

and this was after this had been captured

by the Japanese.

They're from the British firing from stonecutters battery,

they wanted to destroy the command centre and the tunnels

so the Japanese couldn't have them.

But they couldn't stop the Japanese taking Hong Kong.

The gin drinkers line failed for the same reason

the British failed to hang on to Singapore or Hong Kong.

They're just overextended,

the Japanese have a building strength,

power, authority, influence in China.

On Christmas day 1941 the British surrendered.

The Japanese took this prized British possession

much more easily than they had anticipated.

The Japanese held Hong Kong until the end of world war ii

when the British regained control,

until 1997 when it was handed over to China.

The British defence of Hong Kong has continued to attract criticism.

To this day,

there are a lot of people who feel that

the Indian and Canadian soldiers sent to Hong Kong

were abandoned by the British army,

abandoned by the British empire

and used as Cannon fodder in a hopeless defence

of a city that the Japanese were certain to take.

In the dead centre of the Australian island of tasmania

lies a strange mix of industrial infrastructure.

Tasmania's interior is rugged and sparsely populated.

Apart from these buildings,

there is nothing for miles and miles.

We hear from visitors, their surprised about coming across

such a large sophisticated engineering project,

literally in the middle of nowhere.

Huge pipes extend out of the main building,

climbing up and over a nearby hill.

These pipelines they're almost like man-made tentacles

reaching out to who knows where.

Inside you see rows of heavy equipment,

clearly, this was a massive engineering undertaking.

You have these big lumps of machinery from yesteryear.

Other rooms show a more intricate side to the site.

There's something beautiful about the engineering here,

there's a certain care that went into it.

It's like stepping into an early 20th century Tesla,

lots of buttons and cool dials to play with.

Whatever went on here

needed constant monitoring and tweaking.

The commodity produced from this isolated facility

changed tasmania forever,

but it would take a herculean effort.

At the turn of the 20th century,

tasmania was in desperate need of something

the rest of the developed world already had.

Most of tasmania was still practically a wilderness,

it was very thinly populated,

but they wanted to modernise.

Tasmania needed to catch up with the industrial age.

But how?

The history of building modern civilisation

is the history of harnessing energy.

Tasmania is a remote island

that's cut adrift from the bottom of Australia.

If it's to find its own reliable energy source

then it has few other options

than to look deeper inside its own territory.

The island's unique geography sparked an idea.

In the push to modernise,

tasmania had a great natural advantage.

The interior is high elevation and filled with lakes and rivers.

Steep highlands, heavy rainfall, all they needed were the right tools

to convert that water strain into electricity.

This is waddamana hydro-electric power station.

Tasmania's answer to an energy crisis.

But with no water source in sight

it would take a visionary professor called Alexander mccauley

to bring it to life.

Mccauley's vision was to realise the potential of the great lake,

the largest naturally occurring body of fresh water in tasmania.

He could see by moving the water from the great lake

to the edge of the plateau

and then dropping it down for 300m to the ouse river,

he could generate an enormous amount of power.

Historian Chris tassel has been sharing the story

of tasmania's hydroelectric beginnings

for six years.

Most power stations till then had been built where the water was.

He conceived of the notion of shifting the water

if I can put it that way some 30km, 40km,

quite an amazing notion.

But turning mccauley's idea into reality was no easy task.

The challenge was

it was located right in the middle of the island

where there were no roads, virtually no people.

So they essentially built an 18-mile tramway

to haul all of these supplies up to waddamana,

we're talking about generators, turbines, pipes,

everything you'd need

to build this power station from scratch.

And events on the other side of the world

further conspired against its construction.

In 1914 world war I started,

all the equipment was coming from Europe

some of it didn't get here

because it was either seized or lost in ships at sea.

The combination of brutal weather

and rugged terrain also took its toll.

This was a horrific job because it's extraordinarily steep,

the rock is extremely hard dolerite,

and for much of winter,

the rock face is actually in the shadow all the time

so often the water which had frozen just didn't melt

so they had to break away the ice

before they could get to the rock to break it

to construct the pathway for the pipes.

Tasmania had this vast source of potential energy

but it was going to take a lot of ingenuity

and some very hard-working people to make it happen.

In this sparsely populated area,

workers had to be brought in from far and wide.

In order to build and run the power plant,

it wouldn't be possible for workers to just commute in and out.

They needed a community here,

one where people could live year-round,

bring their wives and children, raise their families.

Peter hardstaff was raised here

and remembers how central the power station was to daily life.

There were rules.

The village was ran by a siren at the station.

When the siren sounded at 8:00 in the morning

it meant we could go to the pool

and when it sounded at 5:00 at night that was knock-off time,

it meant that we had to be home for tea.

Industrialisation is about more than just new machines.

It's also about a new workforce, a new outlook,

a new way of living.

And growing up next to a power plant came with its own unique dangers.

The rules were quite simple,

you play in switchyard you're going to die.

Play in the tower rush you're going to drown.

While hazardous this infrastructure was also extremely efficient

and influenced life all across tasmania.

When the waddamana power station opened it kind of

became the beating heart of the island.

You have to remember that for many years

the whole of the state grids was controlled from this room,

this control office.

Controlling this power station

was not a responsibility to be taken lightly.

Not much more than a decade ago

there was a problem in a structure very much like this

at a power plant in Russia that exploded,

destroyed the whole power plant and killed several workers.

Even today operating a hydropower plant

is not a trivial undertaking.

At its peak, waddamana was a sight to behold.

This is the turbine hall,

this is the heart of the power station.

The nine generating units are here.

This is where the mechanical energy from the water

coming from the central plateau was converted to electricity.

The amount of sheer energy travelling through this building

when it was in operation would be something awesome,

the whole building would be trembling slightly.

Sometimes the canals feeding the pipelines would ice over

and this would mean that ice would be fed

right into the turbines creating a sound

that was likened to using a sledgehammer

on a plate glass window.

The power plant's groundbreaking success

was also its downfall.

Other stations sprang up nearby,

taking waddamana's blueprints and improving on them.

After almost 50 years of operation,

this plant was not really cutting-edge anymore,

other plants had been built that were more efficient.

Despite its age

the power station was still operating remarkably well

right up until it was shut down for good in 1966.

While the turbines no longer turn,

the station stands proudly as an example of human triumph

over nature and adversity.

I think waddamana is one of those very special places

where you can actually feel the excitement

of an original vision,

an extraordinary achievement.

Despite everything, despite the weather,

despite a location that defied the odds,

despite a world war

they are able to come up and use cutting-edge technology.

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