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Narrator: A decaying
concrete jungle
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00:00:05,200 --> 00:00:07,960
of the northern border
of the United States.
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00:00:09,480 --> 00:00:13,560
It's a series of
tall vertical tubes,
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00:00:13,600 --> 00:00:16,320
completely dark, made
of concrete, no windows.
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00:00:17,960 --> 00:00:20,920
A top-secret enclave in Belarus,
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where hundreds of people
once lived alongside great danger.
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00:00:26,560 --> 00:00:29,840
Perhaps this site
was chosen exactly
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00:00:29,880 --> 00:00:34,040
because the forest
makes it difficult to detect
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00:00:34,080 --> 00:00:35,080
what's really going on.
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00:00:36,000 --> 00:00:38,440
An isolated
cluster of structures
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00:00:38,480 --> 00:00:41,520
that would bring tasmania
into the modern world.
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00:00:42,640 --> 00:00:44,960
It was gonna take
a lot of ingenuity
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00:00:45,000 --> 00:00:47,120
and some very hard-working
people to make it happen.
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00:00:47,600 --> 00:00:48,960
And in Hong Kong,
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00:00:49,000 --> 00:00:54,200
a mountainside riddled with
tunnels dug to defend an empire.
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00:00:54,240 --> 00:00:59,160
They're going to throw those
grenades down into the trench,
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00:00:59,200 --> 00:01:03,200
wait for the bang and
then dive in themselves
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00:01:03,240 --> 00:01:05,120
using their sword bayonets.
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Decaying relics.
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00:01:13,920 --> 00:01:16,280
Ruins of lost worlds.
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Sites haunted by the past...
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..Their secrets
waiting to be revealed.
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In northeastern United States
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at the edge of lake erie
stands a city of stone.
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People sometimes use the word
concrete jungle to describe a city,
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well, this really looks
like a concrete jungle,
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00:01:57,520 --> 00:01:59,000
all you can see is concrete.
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00:02:00,200 --> 00:02:03,160
These structures are
like mini skyscrapers
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00:02:03,200 --> 00:02:05,200
but they don't have any windows.
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00:02:06,360 --> 00:02:09,840
Inside these structures
are a vertical maze.
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These buildings are deserted.
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They've been entirely stripped.
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There's nothing left at
least on the lower levels,
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everything's been taken away.
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00:02:20,920 --> 00:02:23,960
Whatever work or
activity was going on here,
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00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:27,200
it's clear that it
stopped a long time ago.
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00:02:29,680 --> 00:02:32,120
Located in buffalo,
New York state,
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this set of buildings is
intertwined with the city's past.
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00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:40,400
These are well removed
from the city centre,
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00:02:40,440 --> 00:02:42,960
they're right on the
edge of the city limits,
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00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:46,120
clustered around a
bend in the buffalo river.
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00:02:47,080 --> 00:02:51,200
Buffalo is a city that's
almost forgotten today
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00:02:51,240 --> 00:02:52,680
but in its heyday,
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00:02:52,720 --> 00:02:54,840
it was one of the most
important cities in the us.
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00:03:03,080 --> 00:03:07,000
I keep coming back to this site
because this is a magical place,
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I feel spirits here.
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Local resident Larry mruk
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has explored this
historic site extensively.
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00:03:18,680 --> 00:03:20,560
The first time I
came to this place
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00:03:20,600 --> 00:03:23,280
I just remember, you know,
like how abandoned it was,
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00:03:23,320 --> 00:03:24,400
how desolate it was.
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00:03:25,120 --> 00:03:28,240
Inside you see a
series of these tall tubes
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00:03:28,280 --> 00:03:30,640
like some are made of
concrete, some are made of steel,
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00:03:30,680 --> 00:03:33,720
it's very eerie, dark,
your voice echoes.
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00:03:34,560 --> 00:03:36,080
There's nothing
else quite like this.
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00:03:36,840 --> 00:03:39,320
We come across
this almighty shaft
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00:03:39,360 --> 00:03:41,920
that seems to go up
for hundreds of feet.
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00:03:41,960 --> 00:03:45,640
Whatever was happening here,
it was a very large operation.
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00:03:47,600 --> 00:03:49,920
Most of the building
is now empty
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00:03:49,960 --> 00:03:53,040
but on the highest level
is a clue to its purpose.
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00:03:55,000 --> 00:03:57,880
Right now we're at the top
of the American complex.
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00:03:57,920 --> 00:04:01,600
What we're seeing over
here is all the conveyor belts
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00:04:01,640 --> 00:04:03,440
as if time stood still.
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00:04:03,480 --> 00:04:06,320
They're basically the
transportation system.
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00:04:07,000 --> 00:04:09,720
There's this long open
space with a conveyor belt
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00:04:09,760 --> 00:04:12,840
that stretches about 200
feet from one end to the other.
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00:04:12,880 --> 00:04:16,240
So we're 150 feet
up in the air here.
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00:04:16,280 --> 00:04:17,840
The product that
was brought up here
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00:04:17,880 --> 00:04:20,040
needed to be not only
transported up here
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00:04:20,080 --> 00:04:24,080
but then had to be moved
back and forth for some reason
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00:04:24,120 --> 00:04:25,680
using these conveyor belts.
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00:04:27,560 --> 00:04:29,800
The product they
were moving was grain.
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00:04:31,840 --> 00:04:34,440
A commodity that
turned the once quiet
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00:04:34,480 --> 00:04:38,240
frontier town of buffalo
into a powerful Metropolis.
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00:04:39,720 --> 00:04:41,280
In the 19th century,
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00:04:41,320 --> 00:04:44,000
the United States really
emerged as a major player
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00:04:44,040 --> 00:04:45,480
in the export market
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00:04:45,520 --> 00:04:48,160
and they were sending
more goods than ever
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00:04:48,200 --> 00:04:51,280
back to Europe, the
old world and beyond.
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00:04:52,400 --> 00:04:56,360
And buffalo would soon become
central to the us export boom...
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00:04:58,760 --> 00:05:00,040
..But there was a problem.
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00:05:01,880 --> 00:05:05,120
Most of the commodities were
being grown in the heartland
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00:05:05,160 --> 00:05:07,880
and there was no easy way
to get those products to market.
84
00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:11,760
You have a range of mountains
blocking access to the east coast,
85
00:05:11,800 --> 00:05:15,000
the roads were mostly just
muddy tracks in those days
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00:05:15,040 --> 00:05:17,200
and the railroads
were developing
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00:05:17,240 --> 00:05:19,040
but they really didn't
have the capacity
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00:05:19,080 --> 00:05:21,560
to handle large
quantities of goods.
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00:05:23,560 --> 00:05:26,120
To get produce to
the east coast ports
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00:05:26,160 --> 00:05:29,640
the us invested in a
new trade superhighway.
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00:05:32,120 --> 00:05:35,400
The solution to the
problem was the erie canal
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00:05:35,440 --> 00:05:39,640
which was a 363-mile
artificial waterway.
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00:05:39,680 --> 00:05:43,560
It was a huge man-made project
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00:05:43,600 --> 00:05:46,120
and it allowed goods
to be transferred
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00:05:46,160 --> 00:05:49,560
from the central United
States farming area
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00:05:49,600 --> 00:05:53,240
all the way to New York and
then out to Europe and beyond,
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00:05:53,280 --> 00:05:57,600
and the beginning of that journey
on the erie canal was buffalo.
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00:05:59,040 --> 00:06:03,040
Suddenly, buffalo
became america's gateway
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00:06:03,080 --> 00:06:04,200
to the rest of the world.
100
00:06:05,720 --> 00:06:07,640
Buffalo was the transfer point.
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00:06:08,560 --> 00:06:12,000
You had to unload the freighter,
store that grain somehow
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00:06:12,040 --> 00:06:15,040
until you're ready to
load it into a canal boat.
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00:06:16,000 --> 00:06:20,480
Trade through the erie canal
turned buffalo into a powerhouse
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00:06:20,520 --> 00:06:24,680
with more millionaires per
capita than any other city in the us.
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00:06:25,800 --> 00:06:29,000
But for the labourers here
the work was dangerous.
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00:06:30,400 --> 00:06:33,680
When the ships docked in buffalo
the only way to get the grain out
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00:06:33,720 --> 00:06:35,000
was by hand.
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00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:39,800
Men would go into the
boats, scoop it into bushels,
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each bushel weighed 60 pounds.
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00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,520
There were two
bushels on each back,
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he would carry it up about 65
feet to the top of the grain elevator
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00:06:49,480 --> 00:06:50,520
and then dump it in.
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00:06:51,520 --> 00:06:54,520
It would take sometimes
a week to unload a ship
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00:06:54,560 --> 00:06:55,840
and these are smaller ships.
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00:06:56,640 --> 00:06:58,240
They got paid by the barrel
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00:06:58,280 --> 00:07:01,000
so they had an incentive
to move as fast as possible,
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00:07:01,040 --> 00:07:03,000
it must have been
back-breaking labour.
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00:07:04,280 --> 00:07:06,520
This device here
is a bosun's chair.
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00:07:07,960 --> 00:07:12,680
A fellow young man usually
18, 19 would be put on the swing
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00:07:12,720 --> 00:07:17,440
and then they would hit the side
of the silo with a broom or an oar
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00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:19,440
and loosen up the dust.
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00:07:19,480 --> 00:07:21,840
And one of the men who
was on one of my tours
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00:07:21,880 --> 00:07:25,040
said that while he was working
here for a two-year period,
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00:07:25,080 --> 00:07:29,600
three young men fell off of
this and drowned in the silo.
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00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:33,480
And there were no
employees' rights back then
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00:07:33,520 --> 00:07:36,120
but that was it,
take it or leave it.
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00:07:36,160 --> 00:07:39,440
If you didn't want it there
were 100 others who would.
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00:07:41,960 --> 00:07:44,920
Trading in grain was
slow and hazardous,
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00:07:46,240 --> 00:07:51,320
but in 1843 a businessman in
buffalo had a unique proposition.
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00:07:53,400 --> 00:07:56,200
Around the same time that
the erie canal was being built,
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00:07:56,240 --> 00:07:59,280
an entrepreneur called
Joseph dart came to buffalo
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00:07:59,320 --> 00:08:02,320
and he took a great
interest in the grain industry.
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00:08:02,360 --> 00:08:04,160
He looked at the
processes in place
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00:08:04,200 --> 00:08:06,640
and he thought he
could do it better.
135
00:08:08,840 --> 00:08:12,120
Joseph dart was an
inventor and entrepreneur,
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00:08:12,160 --> 00:08:15,240
his idea was a grain elevator.
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00:08:16,000 --> 00:08:18,840
This here is the
actual grain elevator,
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00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:22,120
this is a part that would
swing out and into the boat,
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00:08:22,160 --> 00:08:23,520
go into the bottom of the boat
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00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:26,480
and bring the grain up to
the top of the grain elevator.
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00:08:29,600 --> 00:08:34,320
Inside the swinging leg was a belt
equipped with dozens of buckets.
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00:08:35,040 --> 00:08:37,920
The leg would be lowered
into the boat's cargo hold
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00:08:38,680 --> 00:08:40,840
and a steam engine
would turn the belt
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00:08:40,880 --> 00:08:43,560
carrying grain up
by the bucket load.
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00:08:44,680 --> 00:08:47,920
It was an invention that
transformed the grain business.
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00:08:49,640 --> 00:08:51,840
What would take a week to unload
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00:08:51,880 --> 00:08:55,720
could be done in a matter of
maybe ten hours, 12 hours a boat.
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00:08:58,520 --> 00:09:02,080
More grain was now moving
through buffalo than ever before.
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00:09:04,040 --> 00:09:07,920
Soon a dozen new
concrete silos were built
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00:09:07,960 --> 00:09:09,760
giving this place its name,
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00:09:10,640 --> 00:09:11,640
silo city.
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00:09:14,920 --> 00:09:17,600
These buildings were
built in early 1900s.
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00:09:17,640 --> 00:09:22,880
This one here was one of the
first if not the first in the world
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to be of its sort.
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00:09:26,800 --> 00:09:29,000
Silo city started to expand,
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00:09:29,040 --> 00:09:31,680
they had these vast
windowless skyscrapers
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that were used for
storing the grain.
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00:09:34,080 --> 00:09:36,560
They also had
facilities for processing
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and milling the grain,
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00:09:38,040 --> 00:09:40,720
and even ovens the
size of swimming pools
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where they would roast
vast amounts of grain.
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00:09:44,520 --> 00:09:45,800
In its heyday,
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00:09:45,840 --> 00:09:50,040
the city was processing 5
million tonnes of grain every year.
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00:09:53,680 --> 00:09:54,840
Buffalo went from being
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00:09:54,880 --> 00:09:57,240
one of the most important
grain ports in the world
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00:09:57,280 --> 00:09:59,880
to the most important
grain port in the world.
167
00:10:00,920 --> 00:10:03,600
This was buffalo at
its economic height
168
00:10:03,640 --> 00:10:06,200
but it wasn't going to last.
169
00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:12,160
In 1959 a new waterway opened,
170
00:10:12,200 --> 00:10:16,920
a new version of the erie canal
in a way, the st Lawrence seaway,
171
00:10:16,960 --> 00:10:19,600
this was a system
of canals and locks
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00:10:19,640 --> 00:10:22,680
that allowed ocean-going
ships to come from the Atlantic
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00:10:22,720 --> 00:10:25,120
and sail directly
into the Great Lakes.
174
00:10:26,400 --> 00:10:30,720
When the st Lawrence waterway
opened it made the erie canal irrelevant.
175
00:10:32,000 --> 00:10:37,200
The new seaway took all the
trade from the canal and silo city.
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00:10:38,360 --> 00:10:41,760
Buffalo was no longer
the terminal to the world,
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00:10:41,800 --> 00:10:44,440
it was completely
cut out of the deal.
178
00:10:47,040 --> 00:10:51,760
Over the next 40 years, silo
city slowly ground to a halt.
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00:10:53,360 --> 00:10:55,760
Nature's going to take
these over someday,
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00:10:55,800 --> 00:10:58,920
it might be 400 years
from now but nature will.
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00:10:58,960 --> 00:11:01,960
The examples of fern, trees
growing out in the roughs,
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00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:03,680
moss growing.
183
00:11:03,720 --> 00:11:06,600
And one time when I came
up here I was up 12 storeys,
184
00:11:06,640 --> 00:11:08,680
my friend the fox
was waiting for me.
185
00:11:09,480 --> 00:11:11,800
So it's going to happen.
186
00:11:19,680 --> 00:11:22,720
Today many of the silos
have been repurposed
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00:11:22,760 --> 00:11:24,680
as centres for art and history.
188
00:11:25,280 --> 00:11:28,000
Monuments to
buffalo's golden age.
189
00:11:36,200 --> 00:11:38,320
On the western edge of Belarus
190
00:11:38,360 --> 00:11:39,840
is a restricted area
191
00:11:39,880 --> 00:11:41,880
hidden deep in the forest.
192
00:11:45,200 --> 00:11:46,960
There's really no reason
193
00:11:47,000 --> 00:11:49,640
to be this far out in the
wilderness, you know,
194
00:11:49,680 --> 00:11:51,400
this deep in the woods.
195
00:11:51,440 --> 00:11:53,080
This is a remote area,
196
00:11:53,120 --> 00:11:56,480
you would not want to be
out here alone late at night.
197
00:11:57,840 --> 00:12:00,600
Beyond the barriers
and warning signs
198
00:12:00,640 --> 00:12:03,000
are long deserted buildings.
199
00:12:03,960 --> 00:12:07,360
You see the floors have
been taken out for the lumber,
200
00:12:07,400 --> 00:12:09,600
everything's falling apart.
201
00:12:09,640 --> 00:12:11,800
The paint's chipped
and peeling and gone.
202
00:12:14,200 --> 00:12:18,800
A short distance away is a
formation concrete structures,
203
00:12:18,840 --> 00:12:20,320
buried in the earth.
204
00:12:21,680 --> 00:12:24,000
Layout of these structures
looks to be very important,
205
00:12:24,040 --> 00:12:25,040
they're laid out
206
00:12:25,080 --> 00:12:26,416
in a very precise
arrangement of four
207
00:12:26,440 --> 00:12:28,720
and there's a central
structure connecting them all.
208
00:12:29,640 --> 00:12:33,840
One of them still has the cover,
the concrete blast shield over it,
209
00:12:33,880 --> 00:12:35,600
the other has been removed.
210
00:12:35,640 --> 00:12:38,680
You look down it's
filled with muddy water.
211
00:12:39,480 --> 00:12:41,400
This is Belarus,
212
00:12:41,440 --> 00:12:45,120
a country with close ties
to the former Soviet union.
213
00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:49,080
Whatever was going on
out here was dangerous,
214
00:12:49,120 --> 00:12:51,920
it was shady and
it was top secret.
215
00:12:58,640 --> 00:13:02,000
A ten-mile drive from
the nearest big town
216
00:13:02,040 --> 00:13:05,280
is a dirt road on the edge
of an unnamed forest.
217
00:13:08,760 --> 00:13:12,120
Translation: "'No
trespassing, danger ahead.'
218
00:13:13,200 --> 00:13:15,320
"this facility was one
of the most classified
219
00:13:15,360 --> 00:13:16,680
"of the Soviet union.
220
00:13:18,520 --> 00:13:22,040
"Its secrets were well kept
by eight levels of security."
221
00:13:26,240 --> 00:13:30,440
Colonel leonid spatkai served
in the Belarusian air force.
222
00:13:34,920 --> 00:13:36,856
Translation: "I've heard
many stories about this place
223
00:13:36,880 --> 00:13:38,480
"during my times
in the Soviet army.
224
00:13:41,080 --> 00:13:43,520
"However, I learned more
about it from my comrades
225
00:13:43,560 --> 00:13:44,560
"from the border guard.
226
00:13:47,680 --> 00:13:51,160
"Unfortunately, they can't say
much due to their obligations."
227
00:13:54,400 --> 00:13:57,640
At the end of the dirt road
sits a derelict neighbourhood
228
00:13:57,680 --> 00:14:00,000
adorned with Soviet propaganda.
229
00:14:02,720 --> 00:14:05,360
Translation: "On the left-hand
side, there is Lenin's room,
230
00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:06,520
"that's for sure.
231
00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:08,520
"Only the leaders'
portrait is lacking.
232
00:14:09,520 --> 00:14:11,400
"Look, someone
even left their shoes."
233
00:14:14,720 --> 00:14:17,280
Inside the stairs are crumbling,
234
00:14:17,320 --> 00:14:19,280
the ceiling is
caving in in places,
235
00:14:19,320 --> 00:14:22,880
just walking around
inside here is dangerous.
236
00:14:26,840 --> 00:14:27,936
Translation: "In this barrack,
237
00:14:27,960 --> 00:14:30,680
"soldiers had a room
dedicated to rest.
238
00:14:30,720 --> 00:14:31,760
"On the left-hand side,
239
00:14:31,800 --> 00:14:34,440
"they must have had
something resembling a gym
240
00:14:34,480 --> 00:14:36,280
"judging by bits
of equipment left."
241
00:14:42,160 --> 00:14:44,080
There was a large
military base here
242
00:14:44,120 --> 00:14:46,360
but it wasn't your typical
military installation.
243
00:14:47,400 --> 00:14:49,400
Their barracks and
their living quarters
244
00:14:49,440 --> 00:14:52,080
all had to be kept out of
the view of the wandering eye
245
00:14:52,120 --> 00:14:53,960
of a spy plane or even a hiker.
246
00:14:54,840 --> 00:14:57,480
But what were the soldiers
preparing for out here?
247
00:14:57,520 --> 00:15:02,480
You're 1,000 miles from
america's closest allies
248
00:15:02,520 --> 00:15:04,040
in Western Europe.
249
00:15:04,800 --> 00:15:08,840
It must have been
something pretty dangerous.
250
00:15:10,520 --> 00:15:14,960
It's said that 60 years ago
the grass began to shrivel,
251
00:15:15,000 --> 00:15:18,920
the trees changed colour and
the mosquitos disappeared.
252
00:15:23,720 --> 00:15:25,776
Translation: "The warrant
officers responsible for that
253
00:15:25,800 --> 00:15:28,440
"were telling me how in
the span of a few hours
254
00:15:28,480 --> 00:15:30,800
"everything around
the station turned yellow
255
00:15:30,840 --> 00:15:32,960
"because of the
poisonous evaporations.
256
00:15:33,560 --> 00:15:35,880
"Everything went dry
because of the toxins."
257
00:15:36,680 --> 00:15:38,880
Something was happening here
258
00:15:38,920 --> 00:15:42,760
that even the soldiers
were afraid to talk about.
259
00:15:44,520 --> 00:15:46,480
A safe distance
from the barracks
260
00:15:46,520 --> 00:15:50,000
is a formation of evenly
spaced concrete slabs.
261
00:15:51,640 --> 00:15:53,760
What you see here is
a very classic signature,
262
00:15:53,800 --> 00:15:57,240
the sort of things spy satellites
and spy planes would look for,
263
00:15:57,280 --> 00:16:00,520
a very large clean
symmetrical hole in the ground,
264
00:16:00,560 --> 00:16:02,360
the opening to a missile silo.
265
00:16:03,240 --> 00:16:06,240
Early in the cold
war silos like these
266
00:16:06,280 --> 00:16:08,320
were built across
the Soviet union,
267
00:16:08,960 --> 00:16:12,240
they housed missiles
with deadly new payloads,
268
00:16:12,840 --> 00:16:14,240
nuclear warheads.
269
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:20,280
In the beginning of the nuclear era,
bombs were dropped from planes,
270
00:16:20,320 --> 00:16:22,560
which required a plane
getting into enemy territory
271
00:16:23,280 --> 00:16:26,560
and planes aren't that fast either
and they've got humans inside them.
272
00:16:26,600 --> 00:16:27,880
Both sides figured out
273
00:16:27,920 --> 00:16:31,200
that if you put that bomb
on the end of a big missile
274
00:16:31,240 --> 00:16:33,320
you've got a really
effective killing machine.
275
00:16:34,360 --> 00:16:35,880
That was the r-12 missile,
276
00:16:35,920 --> 00:16:38,280
the heart of the
Soviet nuclear arsenal.
277
00:16:39,480 --> 00:16:43,120
So the r-12 known to
NATO as the ss-4 sandal,
278
00:16:43,160 --> 00:16:45,840
it was the iconic Soviet
missile in the period.
279
00:16:45,880 --> 00:16:47,680
They were mounted on trailers
280
00:16:47,720 --> 00:16:51,000
and paraded in every
mayday parade in Moscow.
281
00:16:52,400 --> 00:16:56,320
This new missile ran on
fuel that was easy to store,
282
00:16:57,280 --> 00:17:00,520
it meant it could be
ready to fire within minutes,
283
00:17:00,560 --> 00:17:02,160
but there was a trade-off.
284
00:17:06,080 --> 00:17:07,880
For all their terrifying power,
285
00:17:07,920 --> 00:17:12,160
the r-12's only had a
range of about 1,300 miles.
286
00:17:12,880 --> 00:17:18,080
That may sound like far but
it was barely enough range
287
00:17:18,120 --> 00:17:22,360
to reach the targets that
the Soviets wanted to take out
288
00:17:22,400 --> 00:17:25,200
and the instance the
nuclear war happened.
289
00:17:26,920 --> 00:17:29,800
The r-12 was a
medium-range missile,
290
00:17:31,280 --> 00:17:33,520
the Soviet union was
forced to mount them
291
00:17:33,560 --> 00:17:37,880
on the very edge of its territory
here at the dvina missile silo.
292
00:17:40,800 --> 00:17:45,680
So still not within range
of Washington or New York
293
00:17:45,720 --> 00:17:48,040
but there the edge
of Belarus territory
294
00:17:48,080 --> 00:17:53,400
if they were aimed at say
Rome or Paris or London
295
00:17:53,440 --> 00:17:55,600
that's a target
that they could hit.
296
00:17:57,880 --> 00:17:59,640
In the event of an attack,
297
00:17:59,680 --> 00:18:03,760
the soldiers at dvina would
prepare the missiles for retaliation.
298
00:18:05,880 --> 00:18:08,600
Translation: "Here we can
see the remains of the cap,
299
00:18:08,640 --> 00:18:10,480
"36 tonnes heavy.
300
00:18:10,520 --> 00:18:11,960
"During the launch
of the missile
301
00:18:12,000 --> 00:18:15,400
"it was lifted by a big Jack
and pushed aside on the rails."
302
00:18:19,480 --> 00:18:21,720
Most people probably
think of nuclear missiles
303
00:18:21,760 --> 00:18:23,176
the way they're
portrayed in movies,
304
00:18:23,200 --> 00:18:26,200
the classic sort of doors
over the ground sliding open
305
00:18:26,240 --> 00:18:30,120
and a giant rocket coming out,
but the r-12 did not work that way.
306
00:18:34,800 --> 00:18:37,720
Translation: "The missile launching
process was almost primitive,
307
00:18:37,760 --> 00:18:38,840
"one could say.
308
00:18:38,880 --> 00:18:40,640
"The missile was
positioned vertically
309
00:18:40,680 --> 00:18:42,600
"in order to set
a target for it.
310
00:18:45,320 --> 00:18:47,240
"There was no
software back in the day
311
00:18:47,280 --> 00:18:49,560
"so the only way to
change its direction
312
00:18:49,600 --> 00:18:52,280
"was to change the
positioning of the stabilisers
313
00:18:52,320 --> 00:18:53,840
"before it flies off."
314
00:18:55,720 --> 00:18:58,840
It wasn't exactly a rapid
response but no doubt about it
315
00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:01,040
the r-12 was a very
dangerous weapon.
316
00:19:03,760 --> 00:19:07,920
But the r-12 wasn't only
dangerous after its launch.
317
00:19:08,840 --> 00:19:10,000
In dvina
318
00:19:10,040 --> 00:19:12,560
one missile nearly
caused a catastrophe.
319
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:16,200
The thing about being
in charge of maintenance
320
00:19:16,240 --> 00:19:17,360
for a nuclear missile
321
00:19:17,400 --> 00:19:19,920
is that it's an incredibly
dangerous piece of equipment.
322
00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:22,440
It's essentially a
bomb on another bomb.
323
00:19:22,480 --> 00:19:26,240
The missile launches itself
into the air with explosive fuel
324
00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:28,880
and that fuel is incredibly
toxic and dangerous.
325
00:19:29,440 --> 00:19:32,880
Translation: "The rocket
fuel itself is highly toxic,
326
00:19:32,920 --> 00:19:34,440
"hence the remote tanking
327
00:19:34,480 --> 00:19:37,360
"and highest security
measures for the personnel.
328
00:19:37,400 --> 00:19:40,480
"You know that it's like in
Belarus, we like to rush things,
329
00:19:40,520 --> 00:19:43,040
"and that fuel was
poured into tank waggons.
330
00:19:44,120 --> 00:19:45,360
"And everything went yellow
331
00:19:45,400 --> 00:19:47,920
"and the birds stopped
flying, as we say.
332
00:19:47,960 --> 00:19:49,840
"The evaporation was tremendous.
333
00:19:49,880 --> 00:19:53,160
"Thank god all those were
taken out of Belarus territory.
334
00:19:54,040 --> 00:19:56,640
"Currently, we don't have
any of those elements left."
335
00:19:59,880 --> 00:20:02,440
And that's scary stuff.
336
00:20:03,040 --> 00:20:07,360
And that fear, not understanding
what these missiles could do,
337
00:20:07,400 --> 00:20:10,480
how they worked, their
potential for destruction,
338
00:20:10,520 --> 00:20:13,080
none of it was really
understood well
339
00:20:13,120 --> 00:20:17,880
even by the people who are
working most closely with these objects
340
00:20:17,920 --> 00:20:19,560
of mass destruction themselves.
341
00:20:22,040 --> 00:20:26,960
For 20 years the r-12 missile
was the Jewel of the Soviet arsenal,
342
00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:30,120
but by 1978 it was obsolete.
343
00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:37,496
Translation: "R-12 missiles
were taken out of service
344
00:20:37,520 --> 00:20:40,440
"when the focus was shifted
towards mobile missiles
345
00:20:40,480 --> 00:20:41,680
"which were cheaper
346
00:20:41,720 --> 00:20:43,320
"and could be launched
from any point."
347
00:20:46,240 --> 00:20:48,640
It was a good thing that it was
decommissioned when it was.
348
00:20:49,120 --> 00:20:51,880
When they analysed the
site after the decommissioning
349
00:20:52,640 --> 00:20:54,560
they discovered that the
ground was so unstable
350
00:20:54,600 --> 00:20:56,296
that if any rockets had
launched out of there
351
00:20:56,320 --> 00:20:58,600
it would have caused
everything to collapse inward,
352
00:20:58,640 --> 00:21:00,320
detonating all
the other rockets.
353
00:21:08,760 --> 00:21:12,760
Those who were stationed
at dvina still refuse to talk
354
00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:14,160
about what happened here.
355
00:21:17,120 --> 00:21:19,480
Colonel spatkai
is one of the few
356
00:21:19,520 --> 00:21:21,600
who keep the story
of this place alive.
357
00:21:26,600 --> 00:21:27,616
Translation: "The fact that
358
00:21:27,640 --> 00:21:29,880
"the missiles never
left their starting points,
359
00:21:29,920 --> 00:21:33,800
"never flew off to their
targets, that's a massive relief
360
00:21:33,840 --> 00:21:35,160
"because otherwise
361
00:21:35,200 --> 00:21:37,760
"if the cold war had
turned into a nuclear war
362
00:21:37,800 --> 00:21:39,840
"I don't think we would
have been sitting here
363
00:21:39,880 --> 00:21:41,080
"right now.
364
00:21:41,120 --> 00:21:44,160
"Probably this place would
have been a burnt off desert."
365
00:21:49,840 --> 00:21:53,320
In east Asia on the edge
of the south China sea,
366
00:21:53,960 --> 00:21:55,320
Hong Kong is one of
367
00:21:55,360 --> 00:21:57,400
the most densely
populated places
368
00:21:57,440 --> 00:21:58,440
on earth.
369
00:22:02,440 --> 00:22:05,120
It's a city buzzing with life
370
00:22:05,160 --> 00:22:09,320
and almost every inch of land
that could have been built on
371
00:22:09,360 --> 00:22:10,520
has been.
372
00:22:11,360 --> 00:22:13,560
But the steep surrounding hills
373
00:22:13,600 --> 00:22:16,600
are cloaked in thick
subtropical forest.
374
00:22:19,640 --> 00:22:22,880
You start up these
steep rickety stairs
375
00:22:22,920 --> 00:22:25,160
that take you
deeper into the forest.
376
00:22:27,000 --> 00:22:32,040
Gradually more and more structures
can be seen in the undergrowth.
377
00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:38,840
We can see vents,
we can see tunnels,
378
00:22:39,600 --> 00:22:43,560
we can see channels
cut into the ground
379
00:22:43,600 --> 00:22:45,720
and reinforced with concrete.
380
00:22:47,360 --> 00:22:51,120
Someone has gone to great
lengths to disguise this place.
381
00:22:52,800 --> 00:22:57,200
A lot of the maps of
these constructions
382
00:22:57,240 --> 00:22:58,840
are outright wrong.
383
00:23:00,200 --> 00:23:02,800
This is not an
easy place to find.
384
00:23:05,040 --> 00:23:07,400
There's evidence
that it was attacked
385
00:23:07,440 --> 00:23:11,800
and below ground, surprising
carvings Mark the walls.
386
00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:17,360
The deeper you go into the
tunnels the spookier it becomes
387
00:23:17,400 --> 00:23:20,640
and then you see the names
carved into the concrete,
388
00:23:20,680 --> 00:23:21,960
it's bizarre.
389
00:23:32,160 --> 00:23:34,160
Local historian Jason wordie
390
00:23:34,200 --> 00:23:36,560
has been studying
this site for years.
391
00:23:37,760 --> 00:23:40,440
The names etched
into the concrete
392
00:23:40,480 --> 00:23:42,720
point to who built
these structures.
393
00:23:43,480 --> 00:23:45,520
They have some
rather curious incisions
394
00:23:45,560 --> 00:23:48,440
at the entrances which
Mark out piccadilly,
395
00:23:48,480 --> 00:23:52,280
charing cross, Oxford
street, haymarket.
396
00:23:53,400 --> 00:23:56,040
On the top of a hill
on the edge of China,
397
00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:59,880
you've got these tunnels
named after English streets,
398
00:24:00,680 --> 00:24:03,960
street names from soho
and London's west end.
399
00:24:05,520 --> 00:24:08,280
This complex was
built by the British
400
00:24:08,320 --> 00:24:11,840
who'd had a foothold in the
region since the mid-19th century.
401
00:24:13,480 --> 00:24:15,760
The British had gotten
fat on Hong Kong,
402
00:24:15,800 --> 00:24:18,360
taking it during the
opium wars in the 1840s
403
00:24:18,400 --> 00:24:20,560
and keeping it as a
principled naval base
404
00:24:20,600 --> 00:24:22,720
and also as a trading
centre ever since.
405
00:24:24,480 --> 00:24:28,000
The British took control
of Hong Kong in 1841.
406
00:24:28,600 --> 00:24:30,960
But this site was
much more recent.
407
00:24:32,120 --> 00:24:34,640
We can date it more
or less accurately
408
00:24:34,680 --> 00:24:37,240
because the fortifications
look so similar
409
00:24:37,280 --> 00:24:40,680
to fortification on the
German border with France
410
00:24:40,720 --> 00:24:42,040
built in the 1930s.
411
00:24:44,800 --> 00:24:47,880
This British defence
system protected Hong Kong,
412
00:24:47,920 --> 00:24:51,600
and it soon became known
as the gin drinkers line.
413
00:24:52,920 --> 00:24:55,400
Further down below
and off in the distance
414
00:24:55,440 --> 00:24:58,800
what was gin drinkers bay
from which this takes its name.
415
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:08,120
The gin drinkers line has
prepared emplacements,
416
00:25:08,160 --> 00:25:10,720
it has bastions, it has tunnels
417
00:25:10,760 --> 00:25:13,880
so that you can move
from position to position
418
00:25:13,920 --> 00:25:16,240
without being
exposed to artillery fire.
419
00:25:16,800 --> 00:25:19,560
The street names chiselled
into the tunnels here
420
00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:21,360
had an important purpose.
421
00:25:22,040 --> 00:25:25,200
It wasn't just a quaint
colonial affectation
422
00:25:25,240 --> 00:25:28,600
naming it like this,
there was logic to it.
423
00:25:30,000 --> 00:25:32,520
The unit which
extensively trained on this
424
00:25:32,560 --> 00:25:33,920
when it was laid out
425
00:25:33,960 --> 00:25:36,400
was the first battalion
the middlesex regiment.
426
00:25:36,440 --> 00:25:38,920
Now the recruiting area
for the middlesex regiment
427
00:25:38,960 --> 00:25:40,040
was central London.
428
00:25:41,040 --> 00:25:43,520
On this side you can
just see regent street,
429
00:25:43,560 --> 00:25:46,640
regent street again will
lead up to Oxford street.
430
00:25:46,680 --> 00:25:49,880
So for someone familiar
with the London street pattern
431
00:25:49,920 --> 00:25:52,000
as the first battalion
the middlesex were,
432
00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:55,040
this has an interior logic
to it which makes sense.
433
00:25:57,600 --> 00:26:00,280
The idea was that
in the panic of war,
434
00:26:00,320 --> 00:26:04,160
soldiers would navigate their way
through the complex tunnel system
435
00:26:04,200 --> 00:26:05,560
without hesitation.
436
00:26:06,800 --> 00:26:09,520
And one name
marks a key location:
437
00:26:09,560 --> 00:26:11,400
The strand palace hotel.
438
00:26:16,120 --> 00:26:17,120
And here we are
439
00:26:17,160 --> 00:26:19,680
in the observation post
of the shing mun redoubt
440
00:26:19,720 --> 00:26:22,080
codename the
strand palace hotel.
441
00:26:23,320 --> 00:26:25,920
The shing mun redoubt
is the command post
442
00:26:25,960 --> 00:26:28,720
where the commander
of this defence line
443
00:26:28,760 --> 00:26:33,000
will keep in close coordination
with the surrounding fortifications,
444
00:26:33,040 --> 00:26:35,120
knitting together
this defence line.
445
00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:38,400
Now the infantrymen
would have known
446
00:26:38,440 --> 00:26:41,000
that the strand palace
hotel was the place to go
447
00:26:41,040 --> 00:26:42,440
to look for information.
448
00:26:43,080 --> 00:26:45,840
As this is the place
they went in the 1930s
449
00:26:45,880 --> 00:26:47,680
to peek in through the windows
450
00:26:47,720 --> 00:26:50,000
and see what the rich
and famous were up to.
451
00:26:52,000 --> 00:26:55,080
The gin drinkers line
took two years to build
452
00:26:55,120 --> 00:26:58,240
and included a much-needed
ventilation system.
453
00:27:00,760 --> 00:27:02,680
Now ventilation
shafts are dotted
454
00:27:02,720 --> 00:27:05,000
along the entire length
of the tunnel system.
455
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:09,800
Now the kinds of explosive
were still in use in the mid-1930s
456
00:27:09,840 --> 00:27:12,320
when this was laid out, they
generated a lot of smoke.
457
00:27:13,600 --> 00:27:16,160
But who did the
British expect to attack?
458
00:27:21,200 --> 00:27:24,640
The Japanese had
invaded China in 1937.
459
00:27:24,680 --> 00:27:27,120
By the outbreak of world war ii
460
00:27:27,160 --> 00:27:29,560
they had set their
sights on Hong Kong
461
00:27:29,600 --> 00:27:33,200
and they knew just how
to flush the British out.
462
00:27:35,240 --> 00:27:37,240
The city has grown
463
00:27:37,280 --> 00:27:40,120
on the back of artificially
created water supplies,
464
00:27:40,160 --> 00:27:41,680
so the issue of water
465
00:27:41,720 --> 00:27:43,760
is a great vulnerability
for Hong Kong.
466
00:27:45,320 --> 00:27:47,400
Below the gin drinkers line
467
00:27:47,440 --> 00:27:50,320
sits one of Hong Kong's
main water supplies.
468
00:27:51,840 --> 00:27:54,720
This reservoir was
britain's weakest link.
469
00:27:56,600 --> 00:27:59,960
So the main Japanese strategy
was to capture the reservoir here
470
00:28:00,000 --> 00:28:02,600
and if you capture that
you turn off the taps.
471
00:28:03,480 --> 00:28:07,160
The British angled their guns
to protect their water supply.
472
00:28:08,280 --> 00:28:11,960
But these defences would not
hold the Japanese back forever.
473
00:28:12,680 --> 00:28:15,800
The gin drinkers line was
designed as a speed bump
474
00:28:15,840 --> 00:28:17,960
to bog down an enemy attack
475
00:28:18,000 --> 00:28:21,840
while larger numbers of troops
could be rallied to Hong Kong.
476
00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:26,640
Hong Kong was on a war
footing for some months,
477
00:28:26,680 --> 00:28:27,960
the office's buildings,
478
00:28:28,000 --> 00:28:29,800
government buildings
were sandbagged,
479
00:28:29,840 --> 00:28:32,200
everyone was waiting
for something to happen.
480
00:28:33,760 --> 00:28:37,080
All hope lay in their
top-secret defence system
481
00:28:37,120 --> 00:28:39,560
but this was soon compromised.
482
00:28:40,920 --> 00:28:43,040
The British crown
colony of Hong Kong
483
00:28:43,080 --> 00:28:47,920
has got a thriving population
of Japanese business people,
484
00:28:47,960 --> 00:28:49,280
Japanese merchants.
485
00:28:50,320 --> 00:28:52,440
These were Japanese civilians
486
00:28:52,480 --> 00:28:56,360
working in Hong Kong as
agents, merchants, whatever
487
00:28:56,400 --> 00:28:58,880
but were really spying for
the Japanese government.
488
00:29:00,160 --> 00:29:04,880
In December 1941 the
Japanese finally attacked.
489
00:29:05,840 --> 00:29:08,040
The Japanese decide
to go all the way
490
00:29:08,080 --> 00:29:11,160
and try to evict all of
the European powers
491
00:29:11,200 --> 00:29:13,280
from their east Asian colonies.
492
00:29:14,880 --> 00:29:16,960
Within the space of three hours,
493
00:29:17,000 --> 00:29:20,520
they attacked allied bases
across Asia and the pacific
494
00:29:20,560 --> 00:29:22,000
including Hong Kong.
495
00:29:23,880 --> 00:29:27,280
The Japanese air
force attacks Kai tak
496
00:29:27,320 --> 00:29:30,320
the raf base in Hong Kong,
497
00:29:31,880 --> 00:29:37,320
and they destroy the meagre
raf assets on the ground.
498
00:29:39,480 --> 00:29:42,880
And they wipe-out all the
outdated British aircraft,
499
00:29:42,920 --> 00:29:45,080
you know, leaving this
Hong Kong Garrison
500
00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:46,320
without any air cover.
501
00:29:48,160 --> 00:29:49,480
One day later,
502
00:29:49,520 --> 00:29:52,760
the Japanese knew where
to find the gin drinkers line,
503
00:29:52,800 --> 00:29:54,920
thanks to their
network of spies.
504
00:29:58,440 --> 00:30:03,960
The Japanese assault
on the gin drinkers line
505
00:30:04,000 --> 00:30:08,520
uses German world
war I storm troop tactics
506
00:30:08,560 --> 00:30:12,280
and that means they're not
even going to bother with a rifle.
507
00:30:12,320 --> 00:30:17,160
They're going to get their
soldiers to get loads of grenades
508
00:30:17,200 --> 00:30:20,760
and they're going to
throw those grenades down
509
00:30:20,800 --> 00:30:23,840
into the trench
and tunnel system,
510
00:30:23,880 --> 00:30:26,200
wait for the bang
511
00:30:26,240 --> 00:30:31,040
and then dive in themselves
using their sword bayonets,
512
00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:35,880
their swords and just
chop up anybody left inside.
513
00:30:36,560 --> 00:30:38,040
It was chaos.
514
00:30:40,120 --> 00:30:44,200
Inside the tunnel system the
London codenames meant nothing
515
00:30:44,240 --> 00:30:47,760
to the new soldiers brought
in from Scotland and Canada
516
00:30:47,800 --> 00:30:49,400
to defend the line.
517
00:30:49,440 --> 00:30:51,200
They weren't familiar
with the layout,
518
00:30:51,240 --> 00:30:53,040
they weren't familiar
with the tunnel names,
519
00:30:53,080 --> 00:30:55,080
they were completely confused
520
00:30:55,120 --> 00:30:57,400
and this only added to
the Japanese advantage
521
00:30:57,440 --> 00:30:58,520
of surprise
522
00:30:58,560 --> 00:30:59,680
when they breached the line.
523
00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:04,240
This is completely
surrounded by an enemy,
524
00:31:04,280 --> 00:31:05,320
it's pitch black.
525
00:31:05,360 --> 00:31:06,440
There are people upstairs
526
00:31:06,480 --> 00:31:08,360
who don't want you to survive.
527
00:31:08,400 --> 00:31:11,000
Here we have blast damage
528
00:31:11,040 --> 00:31:14,920
which was caused after a
charge had been laid here,
529
00:31:14,960 --> 00:31:16,920
blast, boom, in.
530
00:31:18,080 --> 00:31:22,800
Original war damage in the
top likewise shrapnel on the sides
531
00:31:22,840 --> 00:31:24,880
where something
clearly had detonated
532
00:31:24,920 --> 00:31:27,120
and the damage
is done on the wall.
533
00:31:27,160 --> 00:31:31,160
There's damage
done by small arms fire
534
00:31:31,200 --> 00:31:32,800
to clear the corridor going in.
535
00:31:34,840 --> 00:31:38,360
But not all the damage at
this site tells the same story.
536
00:31:40,840 --> 00:31:43,320
The whole place should
have been blown apart
537
00:31:43,360 --> 00:31:46,680
with debris scattered everywhere
from the Japanese attack,
538
00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:48,320
but they're not.
539
00:31:50,360 --> 00:31:52,440
There are punches
in the concrete
540
00:31:53,080 --> 00:31:56,640
and that's because these
holes weren't from the Japanese.
541
00:31:58,000 --> 00:32:00,880
The British still had
control of their artillery
542
00:32:00,920 --> 00:32:02,440
on stonecutters island.
543
00:32:05,120 --> 00:32:07,840
We've got shell holes,
this came in afterwards
544
00:32:07,880 --> 00:32:09,600
and this was after
this had been captured
545
00:32:09,640 --> 00:32:10,640
by the Japanese.
546
00:32:11,600 --> 00:32:15,640
They're from the British
firing from stonecutters battery,
547
00:32:16,280 --> 00:32:19,480
they wanted to destroy the
command centre and the tunnels
548
00:32:19,520 --> 00:32:21,920
so the Japanese
couldn't have them.
549
00:32:23,240 --> 00:32:26,880
But they couldn't stop the
Japanese taking Hong Kong.
550
00:32:27,960 --> 00:32:30,920
The gin drinkers line
failed for the same reason
551
00:32:30,960 --> 00:32:34,080
the British failed to hang on
to Singapore or Hong Kong.
552
00:32:34,120 --> 00:32:36,520
They're just overextended,
553
00:32:36,560 --> 00:32:38,400
the Japanese have
a building strength,
554
00:32:38,440 --> 00:32:40,920
power, authority,
influence in China.
555
00:32:43,360 --> 00:32:47,000
On Christmas day 1941
the British surrendered.
556
00:32:48,720 --> 00:32:52,400
The Japanese took this
prized British possession
557
00:32:52,440 --> 00:32:54,720
much more easily than
they had anticipated.
558
00:32:56,960 --> 00:33:00,760
The Japanese held Hong
Kong until the end of world war ii
559
00:33:00,800 --> 00:33:03,120
when the British
regained control,
560
00:33:04,040 --> 00:33:07,520
until 1997 when it was
handed over to China.
561
00:33:18,040 --> 00:33:22,360
The British defence of Hong Kong
has continued to attract criticism.
562
00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:25,360
To this day,
563
00:33:25,400 --> 00:33:28,000
there are a lot of
people who feel that
564
00:33:28,040 --> 00:33:32,560
the Indian and Canadian
soldiers sent to Hong Kong
565
00:33:32,600 --> 00:33:36,120
were abandoned
by the British army,
566
00:33:36,160 --> 00:33:38,720
abandoned by the British empire
567
00:33:38,760 --> 00:33:44,920
and used as Cannon
fodder in a hopeless defence
568
00:33:44,960 --> 00:33:48,640
of a city that the Japanese
were certain to take.
569
00:33:53,560 --> 00:33:57,360
In the dead centre of the
Australian island of tasmania
570
00:33:57,400 --> 00:34:00,720
lies a strange mix of
industrial infrastructure.
571
00:34:05,800 --> 00:34:11,800
Tasmania's interior is rugged
and sparsely populated.
572
00:34:11,840 --> 00:34:13,640
Apart from these buildings,
573
00:34:13,680 --> 00:34:17,520
there is nothing
for miles and miles.
574
00:34:17,560 --> 00:34:21,360
We hear from visitors, their
surprised about coming across
575
00:34:21,400 --> 00:34:26,360
such a large sophisticated
engineering project,
576
00:34:26,400 --> 00:34:27,800
literally in the
middle of nowhere.
577
00:34:28,480 --> 00:34:31,760
Huge pipes extend
out of the main building,
578
00:34:31,800 --> 00:34:34,360
climbing up and
over a nearby hill.
579
00:34:35,200 --> 00:34:39,160
These pipelines they're
almost like man-made tentacles
580
00:34:39,200 --> 00:34:41,720
reaching out to who knows where.
581
00:34:43,360 --> 00:34:46,160
Inside you see rows
of heavy equipment,
582
00:34:46,200 --> 00:34:49,120
clearly, this was a massive
engineering undertaking.
583
00:34:50,080 --> 00:34:54,640
You have these big lumps
of machinery from yesteryear.
584
00:34:56,960 --> 00:35:00,320
Other rooms show a more
intricate side to the site.
585
00:35:01,560 --> 00:35:03,880
There's something beautiful
about the engineering here,
586
00:35:03,920 --> 00:35:05,680
there's a certain
care that went into it.
587
00:35:05,720 --> 00:35:09,440
It's like stepping into an
early 20th century Tesla,
588
00:35:10,280 --> 00:35:12,840
lots of buttons and
cool dials to play with.
589
00:35:14,120 --> 00:35:15,720
Whatever went on here
590
00:35:15,760 --> 00:35:18,840
needed constant
monitoring and tweaking.
591
00:35:19,960 --> 00:35:23,600
The commodity produced
from this isolated facility
592
00:35:23,640 --> 00:35:25,280
changed tasmania forever,
593
00:35:26,080 --> 00:35:28,400
but it would take
a herculean effort.
594
00:35:34,200 --> 00:35:36,600
At the turn of the 20th century,
595
00:35:36,640 --> 00:35:39,400
tasmania was in desperate
need of something
596
00:35:39,440 --> 00:35:42,240
the rest of the developed
world already had.
597
00:35:43,400 --> 00:35:46,800
Most of tasmania was
still practically a wilderness,
598
00:35:46,840 --> 00:35:48,560
it was very thinly populated,
599
00:35:49,320 --> 00:35:50,960
but they wanted to modernise.
600
00:35:51,880 --> 00:35:55,120
Tasmania needed to catch
up with the industrial age.
601
00:35:55,160 --> 00:35:56,160
But how?
602
00:35:57,400 --> 00:35:59,520
The history of building
modern civilisation
603
00:35:59,560 --> 00:36:01,960
is the history of
harnessing energy.
604
00:36:02,960 --> 00:36:04,880
Tasmania is a remote island
605
00:36:04,920 --> 00:36:07,760
that's cut adrift from
the bottom of Australia.
606
00:36:08,480 --> 00:36:11,640
If it's to find its own
reliable energy source
607
00:36:11,680 --> 00:36:13,320
then it has few other options
608
00:36:13,360 --> 00:36:16,240
than to look deeper
inside its own territory.
609
00:36:18,200 --> 00:36:21,520
The island's unique
geography sparked an idea.
610
00:36:22,400 --> 00:36:24,360
In the push to modernise,
611
00:36:24,400 --> 00:36:26,880
tasmania had a great
natural advantage.
612
00:36:26,920 --> 00:36:31,680
The interior is high elevation
and filled with lakes and rivers.
613
00:36:32,520 --> 00:36:37,120
Steep highlands, heavy rainfall,
all they needed were the right tools
614
00:36:37,160 --> 00:36:41,120
to convert that water
strain into electricity.
615
00:36:43,320 --> 00:36:47,360
This is waddamana
hydro-electric power station.
616
00:36:47,400 --> 00:36:50,720
Tasmania's answer
to an energy crisis.
617
00:36:52,840 --> 00:36:55,040
But with no water
source in sight
618
00:36:55,080 --> 00:36:58,520
it would take a visionary
professor called Alexander mccauley
619
00:36:58,560 --> 00:36:59,560
to bring it to life.
620
00:37:01,480 --> 00:37:05,240
Mccauley's vision was to realise
the potential of the great lake,
621
00:37:05,280 --> 00:37:08,720
the largest naturally occurring
body of fresh water in tasmania.
622
00:37:08,760 --> 00:37:12,200
He could see by moving
the water from the great lake
623
00:37:12,240 --> 00:37:15,240
to the edge of the plateau
624
00:37:15,280 --> 00:37:18,600
and then dropping it down
for 300m to the ouse river,
625
00:37:18,640 --> 00:37:20,840
he could generate an
enormous amount of power.
626
00:37:24,920 --> 00:37:28,200
Historian Chris tassel
has been sharing the story
627
00:37:28,240 --> 00:37:30,480
of tasmania's
hydroelectric beginnings
628
00:37:30,520 --> 00:37:31,680
for six years.
629
00:37:33,680 --> 00:37:37,640
Most power stations till then had
been built where the water was.
630
00:37:37,680 --> 00:37:43,360
He conceived of the
notion of shifting the water
631
00:37:43,400 --> 00:37:46,800
if I can put it that way
some 30km, 40km,
632
00:37:46,840 --> 00:37:48,880
quite an amazing notion.
633
00:37:49,600 --> 00:37:54,040
But turning mccauley's idea
into reality was no easy task.
634
00:37:55,840 --> 00:37:57,160
The challenge was
635
00:37:58,000 --> 00:38:00,240
it was located right in
the middle of the island
636
00:38:00,280 --> 00:38:03,080
where there were no
roads, virtually no people.
637
00:38:03,880 --> 00:38:07,160
So they essentially
built an 18-mile tramway
638
00:38:07,200 --> 00:38:09,840
to haul all of these
supplies up to waddamana,
639
00:38:09,880 --> 00:38:13,040
we're talking about
generators, turbines, pipes,
640
00:38:13,080 --> 00:38:14,200
everything you'd need
641
00:38:14,240 --> 00:38:16,400
to build this power
station from scratch.
642
00:38:17,160 --> 00:38:19,840
And events on the
other side of the world
643
00:38:19,880 --> 00:38:22,280
further conspired
against its construction.
644
00:38:23,880 --> 00:38:26,960
In 1914 world war I started,
645
00:38:27,000 --> 00:38:29,560
all the equipment was
coming from Europe
646
00:38:29,600 --> 00:38:32,200
some of it didn't get here
647
00:38:32,240 --> 00:38:36,560
because it was either
seized or lost in ships at sea.
648
00:38:38,000 --> 00:38:40,080
The combination
of brutal weather
649
00:38:40,120 --> 00:38:43,360
and rugged terrain
also took its toll.
650
00:38:43,400 --> 00:38:47,440
This was a horrific job
because it's extraordinarily steep,
651
00:38:47,480 --> 00:38:50,560
the rock is extremely
hard dolerite,
652
00:38:50,600 --> 00:38:52,600
and for much of winter,
653
00:38:52,640 --> 00:38:55,800
the rock face is actually
in the shadow all the time
654
00:38:55,840 --> 00:38:59,320
so often the water which
had frozen just didn't melt
655
00:38:59,360 --> 00:39:01,280
so they had to
break away the ice
656
00:39:01,320 --> 00:39:03,440
before they could get
to the rock to break it
657
00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:06,000
to construct the
pathway for the pipes.
658
00:39:06,840 --> 00:39:10,800
Tasmania had this vast
source of potential energy
659
00:39:11,640 --> 00:39:14,240
but it was going to
take a lot of ingenuity
660
00:39:14,280 --> 00:39:16,400
and some very hard-working
people to make it happen.
661
00:39:17,720 --> 00:39:20,120
In this sparsely populated area,
662
00:39:20,160 --> 00:39:23,720
workers had to be brought
in from far and wide.
663
00:39:23,760 --> 00:39:26,480
In order to build and
run the power plant,
664
00:39:26,520 --> 00:39:30,520
it wouldn't be possible for
workers to just commute in and out.
665
00:39:30,560 --> 00:39:32,040
They needed a community here,
666
00:39:32,080 --> 00:39:34,920
one where people
could live year-round,
667
00:39:34,960 --> 00:39:38,280
bring their wives and
children, raise their families.
668
00:39:39,160 --> 00:39:41,320
Peter hardstaff was raised here
669
00:39:41,360 --> 00:39:45,440
and remembers how central
the power station was to daily life.
670
00:39:48,040 --> 00:39:49,160
There were rules.
671
00:39:50,880 --> 00:39:54,080
The village was ran
by a siren at the station.
672
00:39:54,120 --> 00:39:56,720
When the siren sounded
at 8:00 in the morning
673
00:39:56,760 --> 00:39:58,800
it meant we could go to the pool
674
00:39:58,840 --> 00:40:03,560
and when it sounded at 5:00
at night that was knock-off time,
675
00:40:03,600 --> 00:40:06,040
it meant that we had
to be home for tea.
676
00:40:07,680 --> 00:40:11,640
Industrialisation is about
more than just new machines.
677
00:40:11,680 --> 00:40:16,080
It's also about a new
workforce, a new outlook,
678
00:40:16,120 --> 00:40:17,280
a new way of living.
679
00:40:18,000 --> 00:40:23,120
And growing up next to a power
plant came with its own unique dangers.
680
00:40:23,960 --> 00:40:25,600
The rules were quite simple,
681
00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:30,520
you play in switchyard
you're going to die.
682
00:40:30,560 --> 00:40:32,960
Play in the tower rush
you're going to drown.
683
00:40:33,920 --> 00:40:38,320
While hazardous this infrastructure
was also extremely efficient
684
00:40:38,360 --> 00:40:41,120
and influenced life
all across tasmania.
685
00:40:43,400 --> 00:40:46,520
When the waddamana
power station opened it kind of
686
00:40:46,560 --> 00:40:48,640
became the beating
heart of the island.
687
00:40:49,240 --> 00:40:52,000
You have to remember
that for many years
688
00:40:52,040 --> 00:40:55,520
the whole of the state grids
was controlled from this room,
689
00:40:55,560 --> 00:40:56,560
this control office.
690
00:40:57,480 --> 00:40:59,360
Controlling this power station
691
00:40:59,400 --> 00:41:02,080
was not a responsibility
to be taken lightly.
692
00:41:03,160 --> 00:41:05,120
Not much more than a decade ago
693
00:41:05,160 --> 00:41:08,440
there was a problem in a
structure very much like this
694
00:41:08,480 --> 00:41:11,160
at a power plant in
Russia that exploded,
695
00:41:11,200 --> 00:41:13,800
destroyed the whole power
plant and killed several workers.
696
00:41:13,840 --> 00:41:17,360
Even today operating
a hydropower plant
697
00:41:17,400 --> 00:41:18,840
is not a trivial undertaking.
698
00:41:20,520 --> 00:41:24,240
At its peak, waddamana
was a sight to behold.
699
00:41:25,320 --> 00:41:26,760
This is the turbine hall,
700
00:41:26,800 --> 00:41:28,480
this is the heart of
the power station.
701
00:41:28,520 --> 00:41:30,960
The nine generating
units are here.
702
00:41:31,000 --> 00:41:35,160
This is where the mechanical
energy from the water
703
00:41:35,200 --> 00:41:37,920
coming from the central plateau
was converted to electricity.
704
00:41:39,400 --> 00:41:42,560
The amount of sheer energy
travelling through this building
705
00:41:42,600 --> 00:41:45,560
when it was in operation
would be something awesome,
706
00:41:45,600 --> 00:41:48,000
the whole building would
be trembling slightly.
707
00:41:49,240 --> 00:41:53,440
Sometimes the canals feeding
the pipelines would ice over
708
00:41:53,480 --> 00:41:55,800
and this would mean
that ice would be fed
709
00:41:55,840 --> 00:41:59,000
right into the turbines
creating a sound
710
00:41:59,040 --> 00:42:02,320
that was likened to
using a sledgehammer
711
00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:04,120
on a plate glass window.
712
00:42:06,760 --> 00:42:09,720
The power plant's
groundbreaking success
713
00:42:09,760 --> 00:42:11,400
was also its downfall.
714
00:42:12,080 --> 00:42:14,520
Other stations sprang up nearby,
715
00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:17,640
taking waddamana's blueprints
and improving on them.
716
00:42:18,840 --> 00:42:21,520
After almost 50
years of operation,
717
00:42:21,560 --> 00:42:24,640
this plant was not really
cutting-edge anymore,
718
00:42:24,680 --> 00:42:27,560
other plants had been
built that were more efficient.
719
00:42:29,080 --> 00:42:30,560
Despite its age
720
00:42:30,600 --> 00:42:33,880
the power station was still
operating remarkably well
721
00:42:33,920 --> 00:42:37,680
right up until it was shut
down for good in 1966.
722
00:42:47,320 --> 00:42:49,840
While the turbines
no longer turn,
723
00:42:49,880 --> 00:42:54,120
the station stands proudly as
an example of human triumph
724
00:42:54,160 --> 00:42:56,120
over nature and adversity.
725
00:42:57,600 --> 00:43:01,760
I think waddamana is one
of those very special places
726
00:43:01,800 --> 00:43:06,240
where you can actually
feel the excitement
727
00:43:06,280 --> 00:43:08,200
of an original vision,
728
00:43:09,200 --> 00:43:10,880
an extraordinary achievement.
729
00:43:10,920 --> 00:43:14,000
Despite everything,
despite the weather,
730
00:43:14,040 --> 00:43:16,520
despite a location
that defied the odds,
731
00:43:16,560 --> 00:43:17,920
despite a world war
732
00:43:17,960 --> 00:43:22,400
they are able to come up and
use cutting-edge technology.
733
00:43:22,440 --> 00:43:25,440
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