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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,960 --> 00:00:05,160 Narrator: Coastal structures in Latvia 2 00:00:05,200 --> 00:00:07,000 that witnessed a forgotten battle. 3 00:00:09,160 --> 00:00:12,080 They're so shattered and splintered it appears almost as if 4 00:00:12,120 --> 00:00:15,200 some vast explosive force has taken them all out 5 00:00:15,240 --> 00:00:16,240 in a chain reaction. 6 00:00:17,560 --> 00:00:22,440 A chilling site that hides a dark world war ii secret. 7 00:00:22,480 --> 00:00:25,200 I'm instantly seeing experiments, 8 00:00:25,240 --> 00:00:29,080 I'm seeing torture and I'm seeing horror. 9 00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:35,080 A town in a scorching desert that suffered an extraordinary fate. 10 00:00:36,280 --> 00:00:37,520 Something happened here 11 00:00:37,560 --> 00:00:40,360 that thoroughly dismantled these structures 12 00:00:40,400 --> 00:00:43,840 and washed away evidence of human habitation. 13 00:00:45,680 --> 00:00:48,400 And an epic construction project 14 00:00:48,440 --> 00:00:52,320 in the mountains of Southern Africa that unearthed a deadly material. 15 00:00:53,640 --> 00:00:57,120 The thing that made it such an amazing material 16 00:00:57,160 --> 00:00:58,400 also turned it into a killer. 17 00:01:05,520 --> 00:01:07,360 Decaying relics, 18 00:01:07,400 --> 00:01:09,600 ruins of lost worlds, 19 00:01:09,640 --> 00:01:13,720 forged by years of toil but now haunted by the past. 20 00:01:14,640 --> 00:01:17,960 Their amazing secrets are now waiting to be revealed. 21 00:01:35,800 --> 00:01:39,520 In a picturesque town north of Berlin, Germany, 22 00:01:39,560 --> 00:01:40,920 lie the charred remains 23 00:01:40,960 --> 00:01:43,800 of a place with a deeply troubling past. 24 00:01:48,160 --> 00:01:50,560 It's hard to discern what it is, 25 00:01:50,600 --> 00:01:53,480 it's a big kind of hangar-like structure. 26 00:01:53,520 --> 00:01:56,200 It looks like it was for the production 27 00:01:56,240 --> 00:01:58,160 of something important. 28 00:01:58,200 --> 00:02:03,360 It's all very secure, it's gated and cut off... 29 00:02:03,400 --> 00:02:05,200 You're wondering why. 30 00:02:05,240 --> 00:02:08,120 It's something that's trying to be discreet, 31 00:02:08,160 --> 00:02:13,080 it's on the outside of the town and hidden by tall trees, 32 00:02:13,120 --> 00:02:15,640 whatever it is it's cloaked in secrecy. 33 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:19,160 The clues that reveal the dark history of the site 34 00:02:19,200 --> 00:02:21,440 are to be found on the inside. 35 00:02:21,480 --> 00:02:26,120 As you come indoors, you see these big halls and spaces 36 00:02:26,160 --> 00:02:28,600 and you've got these massive ovens. 37 00:02:28,640 --> 00:02:31,920 Clearly, there was intense heat, 38 00:02:31,960 --> 00:02:35,040 certainly there's evidence of a fire having taken place 39 00:02:35,080 --> 00:02:38,120 because of the scorch marks on the walls and ceiling. 40 00:02:39,040 --> 00:02:43,320 When I see old soulless German engineering 41 00:02:43,360 --> 00:02:45,920 rusting away with bricks 42 00:02:45,960 --> 00:02:49,320 that have got gas piping in them and taps, 43 00:02:49,360 --> 00:02:53,280 and I think the most horrible things about what might have happened here. 44 00:02:53,320 --> 00:02:55,480 But what you'd think about this place 45 00:02:55,520 --> 00:02:57,360 isn't what happened here. 46 00:02:57,400 --> 00:02:59,640 It's a little bit of a different story. 47 00:03:01,600 --> 00:03:03,040 So what did happen here? 48 00:03:03,760 --> 00:03:06,400 And why is the building still standing today? 49 00:03:10,320 --> 00:03:14,840 The key that unlocks the secret lies less than two miles away - 50 00:03:15,480 --> 00:03:18,240 at sachsenhausen concentration camp. 51 00:03:20,440 --> 00:03:22,320 It was built by the Nazis 52 00:03:22,360 --> 00:03:24,760 during the years leading up to world war ii. 53 00:03:27,120 --> 00:03:29,440 At the beginning of 1937 54 00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:33,040 there were just 21 Jewish prisoners in sachsenhausen. 55 00:03:34,040 --> 00:03:38,880 By 1945 that number had risen to more than 11,000. 56 00:03:40,360 --> 00:03:44,800 After the kristallnacht pogrom of November 1938 alone, 57 00:03:44,840 --> 00:03:49,200 6,000 Jews who had been arrested on the orders of Heinrich himmler 58 00:03:49,240 --> 00:03:50,960 were sent to sachsenhausen. 59 00:03:53,000 --> 00:03:55,760 The Nazi camp system was expanded rapidly 60 00:03:55,800 --> 00:03:57,840 after the beginning of world war ii, 61 00:03:57,880 --> 00:04:01,280 as the regime realised it would need forced labour 62 00:04:01,320 --> 00:04:02,960 to maintain war production. 63 00:04:05,320 --> 00:04:08,440 Sachsenhausen is placed on the outskirts of Berlin 64 00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:09,976 because it's hoped that the German people 65 00:04:10,000 --> 00:04:11,640 won't know too much about its existence. 66 00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:17,040 As the Nazi's start to tighten their grip 67 00:04:17,080 --> 00:04:19,040 on German political life, 68 00:04:19,080 --> 00:04:21,040 more and more people 69 00:04:21,080 --> 00:04:25,400 are being pulled off the streets of Berlin and the surrounding cities 70 00:04:25,440 --> 00:04:27,760 and locked up in this place. 71 00:04:28,560 --> 00:04:32,760 But the camp was only one part of this terrifying crusade. 72 00:04:32,800 --> 00:04:37,040 The now decaying structure nearby also played a key role 73 00:04:37,080 --> 00:04:39,120 in the cruel Nazi project. 74 00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:42,320 It was a place in which prisoners were forced to work. 75 00:04:42,960 --> 00:04:46,680 You were worked seven days a week, your ration was minimal. 76 00:04:46,720 --> 00:04:49,640 Now these weren't specifically death camps 77 00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:54,040 but people were worked close to death. 78 00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:57,400 This was the ss bakery, 79 00:04:58,280 --> 00:05:00,800 a place built to feed their captors. 80 00:05:02,000 --> 00:05:04,840 As local expert Horst seferens tells us, 81 00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:07,960 working here was simply another form of torture. 82 00:05:09,960 --> 00:05:12,560 (Speaks in foreign language) 83 00:05:12,600 --> 00:05:15,360 Translation: "These big stoves or the remains of them 84 00:05:15,400 --> 00:05:18,640 "had been producing thousands of loaves of bread 85 00:05:18,680 --> 00:05:20,040 "day after day. 86 00:05:22,640 --> 00:05:24,600 "What a misery it would have been for them 87 00:05:24,640 --> 00:05:28,040 "to see all that food being produced here in abundance 88 00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:31,480 "while all of them and their fellow inmates in the camp 89 00:05:31,520 --> 00:05:33,160 "were starving." 90 00:05:36,480 --> 00:05:38,240 It's a dreadful irony 91 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:41,280 that the bakery might also have been one of the few places 92 00:05:41,320 --> 00:05:45,120 to offer a glimmer of hope, but the dangers were great. 93 00:05:46,400 --> 00:05:48,800 Prisoners in German concentration camps 94 00:05:48,840 --> 00:05:51,600 were systematically starved 95 00:05:51,640 --> 00:05:55,880 so even some crusts that had fallen off of bread 96 00:05:55,920 --> 00:05:57,680 in those industrial ovens 97 00:05:57,720 --> 00:06:01,040 might mean the difference for them between life and death. 98 00:06:01,080 --> 00:06:02,240 You might think that, 99 00:06:02,280 --> 00:06:04,680 oh, if you took the end of the loaf 100 00:06:04,720 --> 00:06:06,280 that they were going to lop off anyway 101 00:06:06,320 --> 00:06:08,040 or a crust that fell on the floor 102 00:06:08,080 --> 00:06:10,256 it would be no big deal but of course it was a big deal. 103 00:06:10,280 --> 00:06:12,840 The German's were big on insisting on obedience, 104 00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:14,760 you'd be mercilessly beaten. 105 00:06:15,640 --> 00:06:17,200 Despite the perils, 106 00:06:17,240 --> 00:06:20,040 a former prisoner remembers that for some 107 00:06:20,080 --> 00:06:23,360 their desperate circumstances left little choice. 108 00:06:25,360 --> 00:06:27,760 Translation: "He reports that they smuggled the bread 109 00:06:27,800 --> 00:06:29,080 "into the camp. 110 00:06:30,200 --> 00:06:34,800 "By halving the loaves lengthways tying them around their calves 111 00:06:35,560 --> 00:06:37,720 "so that they were covered by their wide trousers 112 00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:39,600 "and could be smuggled into the camp. 113 00:06:41,000 --> 00:06:43,520 "Of course, it was very dangerous." 114 00:06:47,200 --> 00:06:50,200 The cruelty and inhumane conditions here 115 00:06:50,240 --> 00:06:51,240 were shocking, 116 00:06:51,920 --> 00:06:55,080 but sachsenhausen had another grim purpose. 117 00:06:56,520 --> 00:07:00,280 The ss, one of Hitler's most feared organisations, 118 00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:02,400 used it as a testing ground. 119 00:07:06,320 --> 00:07:09,200 Translation: "On the second floor of the central watchtower, 120 00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:10,720 "the so-called 'tower a', 121 00:07:11,320 --> 00:07:15,040 "through which the inmates entered the concentration camp, 122 00:07:15,080 --> 00:07:19,240 "a machine gun was stationed here as well as two guards 123 00:07:19,280 --> 00:07:21,960 "who were standing here day and night. 124 00:07:22,000 --> 00:07:24,240 "One of the model features of sachsenhausen 125 00:07:24,280 --> 00:07:26,680 "was that the guards standing up here 126 00:07:26,720 --> 00:07:28,560 "were able to control the entire camp 127 00:07:28,600 --> 00:07:30,000 "from this central point." 128 00:07:32,600 --> 00:07:36,640 Sachsenhausen was the first of its kind, the dark template 129 00:07:36,680 --> 00:07:39,400 for future concentration and death camps. 130 00:07:40,600 --> 00:07:43,360 While other sites used a rectangular model 131 00:07:43,400 --> 00:07:45,920 rather than this triangular shape, 132 00:07:45,960 --> 00:07:48,760 the key feature was obvious in both - 133 00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:52,080 it provided clear lines of sight to prevent escape. 134 00:07:52,800 --> 00:07:55,640 You would be gunned down either by that guard at the apex 135 00:07:55,680 --> 00:07:58,120 or in the guard towers scattered around the facility. 136 00:07:58,160 --> 00:08:00,200 There was a need that people wouldn't escape 137 00:08:00,240 --> 00:08:01,680 because their labour was needed 138 00:08:01,720 --> 00:08:04,600 but also they didn't want people to escape and spread the word 139 00:08:04,640 --> 00:08:06,480 of what was going on inside these camps. 140 00:08:06,520 --> 00:08:09,720 Translation: "The concept had a psychological effect as well, 141 00:08:09,760 --> 00:08:11,880 "wherever the prisoners moved in the camp 142 00:08:11,920 --> 00:08:14,240 "this watchtower was to be seen from everywhere. 143 00:08:14,280 --> 00:08:17,960 "They basically looked directly into the hole of this machine gun 144 00:08:18,000 --> 00:08:21,800 "symbolically expressing the total power of the ss." 145 00:08:25,120 --> 00:08:29,560 As the prototype camp this place played another vital role 146 00:08:29,600 --> 00:08:32,640 during the early years of the Nazi regime. 147 00:08:32,680 --> 00:08:33,880 In the mid '30s 148 00:08:33,920 --> 00:08:36,360 the Nazi's were just starting to figure out 149 00:08:36,400 --> 00:08:38,800 how to build a concentration camp. 150 00:08:38,840 --> 00:08:43,600 The Nazi's are hiring ordinary police officers 151 00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:45,840 and they're hiring ordinary tradesmen 152 00:08:45,880 --> 00:08:48,520 and sachsenhausen is the place 153 00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:54,520 where an ordinary German can be turned into an ss killer. 154 00:08:55,400 --> 00:08:59,120 Helping to feed this dreadful system was the bakery. 155 00:09:00,120 --> 00:09:02,640 And its success meant that the next chapter 156 00:09:02,680 --> 00:09:05,160 in its tragic story would soon begin. 157 00:09:09,200 --> 00:09:12,040 When world war ii begins in 1939 158 00:09:12,080 --> 00:09:15,200 and Germany massively mobilised, calls all the reserves, 159 00:09:15,240 --> 00:09:17,040 expands conscription, 160 00:09:17,080 --> 00:09:19,840 you suddenly have a need for bread, you know, 161 00:09:19,880 --> 00:09:22,960 to feed all the big Garrison around Berlin. 162 00:09:23,520 --> 00:09:27,520 At the beginning production is moderate, 163 00:09:27,560 --> 00:09:30,400 we're talking 10,000 loaves a day, 164 00:09:30,440 --> 00:09:34,680 later on, you're talking of a much greater expansion 165 00:09:34,720 --> 00:09:38,400 of four to five times of the original factory output. 166 00:09:40,280 --> 00:09:44,920 Everything here was soon replicated at sites all across the German reich. 167 00:09:45,600 --> 00:09:48,560 The Nazi's had made a success of slavery, 168 00:09:49,560 --> 00:09:53,840 so that too was increased and expanded on a horrifying scale. 169 00:09:55,200 --> 00:09:58,240 Because this is one of the early attempts 170 00:09:58,280 --> 00:10:01,880 to set up a large ss industrial enterprise, 171 00:10:01,920 --> 00:10:07,360 this is used as a model for other large ss facilities. 172 00:10:07,400 --> 00:10:09,960 By the middle of world war ii 173 00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:13,880 the ss is one of the largest industrial operations 174 00:10:13,920 --> 00:10:14,920 in the third reich. 175 00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:20,480 Forced labour became a key element of the Nazi war machine. 176 00:10:21,960 --> 00:10:23,960 The infamous slogan on the gate, 177 00:10:24,000 --> 00:10:28,120 "work sets you free," was very far from the truth. 178 00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:32,200 Translation: "In fact, working in a concentration camp 179 00:10:32,240 --> 00:10:33,800 "had a completely different function. 180 00:10:34,640 --> 00:10:38,560 "Work here had always been an instrument to abuse, 181 00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:41,960 "torture and even put prisoners to death. 182 00:10:43,040 --> 00:10:47,280 "Of course, that slogan was used to conceal the reality." 183 00:10:48,960 --> 00:10:51,120 But in a final twist of fate 184 00:10:51,160 --> 00:10:55,000 the bakery that had helped feed the vicious ss regime 185 00:10:55,040 --> 00:10:56,880 turned out to be the lifeline 186 00:10:56,920 --> 00:10:59,160 for those few inmates fortunate enough 187 00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:00,600 to see the end of the war. 188 00:11:01,640 --> 00:11:04,760 It came with the liberation of the camps by the Soviets. 189 00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:09,400 The Soviets find this bread factory 190 00:11:09,440 --> 00:11:12,360 and they press in it into service to feed their own troops, 191 00:11:12,400 --> 00:11:15,600 to feed the 3,000 or so surviving inmates. 192 00:11:15,640 --> 00:11:20,320 And for these camp inmates it must have been fantastic 193 00:11:20,360 --> 00:11:22,720 because they'd been looking hungrily 194 00:11:22,760 --> 00:11:25,400 at these thousands of loaves of bread made every day, 195 00:11:25,440 --> 00:11:26,680 and suddenly, 196 00:11:26,720 --> 00:11:28,560 they have the opportunity to eat them. 197 00:11:28,600 --> 00:11:31,480 The fact that people remained alive 198 00:11:31,520 --> 00:11:34,720 in this concentration camp was almost miraculous. 199 00:11:34,760 --> 00:11:37,600 The fact that there was a bakery nearby 200 00:11:37,640 --> 00:11:39,240 that could feed them was a blessing. 201 00:11:42,600 --> 00:11:44,800 With its darkest years now behind it, 202 00:11:44,840 --> 00:11:48,680 the bakery remained in use until the 1990s 203 00:11:48,720 --> 00:11:50,760 when it was devastated by a fire. 204 00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:54,240 But as the years of horror recede further from memory, 205 00:11:54,280 --> 00:11:58,400 today the two sites are as important as ever. 206 00:12:00,280 --> 00:12:03,480 Translation: "They testify the very existence of these camps 207 00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:04,680 "and crimes. 208 00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:07,840 "And that cannot be denied. 209 00:12:09,600 --> 00:12:12,600 "We think that these architectural witnesses 210 00:12:12,640 --> 00:12:15,040 "will be all the more important in the future. 211 00:12:17,240 --> 00:12:19,840 "Because the people who once survived the terror 212 00:12:19,880 --> 00:12:21,800 "of the ss in these camps 213 00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:25,080 "will soon no longer be amongst us." 214 00:12:31,520 --> 00:12:37,360 In the arid plains of Nevada, usa, miles from any signs of civilisation 215 00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:40,600 are the dusty remains of a crumbling site. 216 00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,480 This is a harsh place to live, 217 00:12:47,520 --> 00:12:50,096 it's in the middle of the desert, the sun is beating down on it, 218 00:12:50,120 --> 00:12:52,360 but it's not clear 219 00:12:52,400 --> 00:12:56,040 what exactly would have caused such devastation. 220 00:12:57,680 --> 00:13:00,640 Everything is almost completely dismantled, 221 00:13:00,680 --> 00:13:03,760 kind of like what you see in a very ancient ruin. 222 00:13:05,040 --> 00:13:06,320 But when you look more closely 223 00:13:06,360 --> 00:13:08,840 you can see it's not actually that old, 224 00:13:08,880 --> 00:13:10,760 you can see signs of concrete. 225 00:13:11,640 --> 00:13:13,280 Something swept through here, 226 00:13:13,320 --> 00:13:16,680 something's happened to take away the structure. 227 00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:20,880 A closer inspection of the strange features here 228 00:13:20,920 --> 00:13:23,400 begins to reveal the bizarre chain of events 229 00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:25,400 that contributed to its downfall. 230 00:13:26,560 --> 00:13:27,720 We're looking for clues 231 00:13:27,760 --> 00:13:29,320 and one of the details that stands out 232 00:13:29,360 --> 00:13:33,160 is the tree trunks just all kind of cut off. 233 00:13:33,200 --> 00:13:34,200 Another detail, 234 00:13:34,240 --> 00:13:35,896 is that everything is incredibly weathered, 235 00:13:35,920 --> 00:13:38,920 there's no sharp edges, there's no right angles here, 236 00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:40,200 everything's been rounded off. 237 00:13:41,040 --> 00:13:42,080 What's really strange 238 00:13:42,120 --> 00:13:44,240 is that you're in the middle of the desert 239 00:13:44,280 --> 00:13:46,080 but there are shells 240 00:13:46,120 --> 00:13:47,960 which might actually be the clue 241 00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:50,200 that describes exactly what happened here. 242 00:13:57,440 --> 00:13:58,800 It's really hot out here. 243 00:13:58,840 --> 00:14:00,360 We're in the mojave desert, 244 00:14:00,400 --> 00:14:03,120 and temperatures can get up to 115 degrees 245 00:14:03,160 --> 00:14:04,200 in the summer. 246 00:14:04,240 --> 00:14:06,520 The most important thing being out here 247 00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:08,560 is to have a lot of water with you. 248 00:14:09,520 --> 00:14:12,720 As an archaeologist with the national park service, 249 00:14:12,760 --> 00:14:15,360 Erin eichenberg has made extensive studies 250 00:14:15,400 --> 00:14:17,160 of the land around the ruins. 251 00:14:17,760 --> 00:14:20,400 And she thinks that despite the searing heat, 252 00:14:20,440 --> 00:14:22,760 the attractions of the site were clear. 253 00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:26,200 This is a pretty inhospitable place to live 254 00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:28,320 but because we're near the confluence 255 00:14:28,360 --> 00:14:30,240 of the virgin and the muddy river here 256 00:14:30,280 --> 00:14:34,000 people were able to make it work and lived here for over 70 years. 257 00:14:37,640 --> 00:14:42,000 Based around agriculture the settlement here once blossomed, 258 00:14:42,880 --> 00:14:44,640 but the seeds of its destruction 259 00:14:44,680 --> 00:14:47,160 were actually sown in the mid 19th century, 260 00:14:47,200 --> 00:14:51,160 when a group of mormons arrived hoping to establish a town here. 261 00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:55,960 When the first settlers arrived here in 1865 262 00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:58,320 this was the middle of nowhere 263 00:14:58,360 --> 00:14:59,680 in the middle of nowhere. 264 00:15:00,480 --> 00:15:03,440 They thought they were still within the boundaries of Utah 265 00:15:03,480 --> 00:15:06,280 but it turned out they'd moved into Nevada. 266 00:15:07,200 --> 00:15:09,120 And when the tax inspector turned up 267 00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:11,640 and informed them that they weren't in Utah 268 00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:16,560 they actually decided to move on and burnt the town to the ground. 269 00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:20,520 So what we see here today is the next stage of this town, 270 00:15:20,560 --> 00:15:22,680 this is the following story. 271 00:15:23,720 --> 00:15:27,840 So the early settlers left this place a burnt-out ruin. 272 00:15:28,640 --> 00:15:31,640 But it would eventually see a second destructive event, 273 00:15:31,680 --> 00:15:32,800 and this time 274 00:15:32,840 --> 00:15:34,880 the cause could hardly have been more different. 275 00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:39,360 This is the ghost town of st Thomas. 276 00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:45,360 So after the mormon's moved out, other settlers moved in, 277 00:15:45,400 --> 00:15:48,360 they started farms, they built a village 278 00:15:48,400 --> 00:15:51,920 and they were able to establish a pretty self-sufficient community. 279 00:15:52,920 --> 00:15:55,080 They were pretty remote, 280 00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:58,960 in the desert but they had everything they needed, 281 00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:01,120 they had built a really nice life for themselves, 282 00:16:01,160 --> 00:16:03,080 they didn't need for anything. 283 00:16:04,720 --> 00:16:07,840 But whilst st Thomas began life as a hidden secret 284 00:16:07,880 --> 00:16:09,200 deep in the desert, 285 00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:12,160 the evidence here of an old rail track 286 00:16:12,200 --> 00:16:13,320 on the edge of town 287 00:16:13,360 --> 00:16:17,200 explains why it didn't remain secret for very long. 288 00:16:17,240 --> 00:16:18,760 At the beginning of the 20th century 289 00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:19,960 the world is getting smaller, 290 00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:22,320 america is turning a corner at this point, 291 00:16:22,360 --> 00:16:26,040 railways are spreading across, the population was growing, 292 00:16:26,080 --> 00:16:27,480 opportunity is out there. 293 00:16:28,120 --> 00:16:31,240 And this brings, you know, great hope 294 00:16:31,280 --> 00:16:32,480 for the people living here. 295 00:16:34,360 --> 00:16:38,200 In the beginning, at least, modernity bought prosperity. 296 00:16:39,800 --> 00:16:43,560 Once the railroad arrived, the highways soon followed. 297 00:16:44,960 --> 00:16:47,400 We're on main street of st Thomas 298 00:16:47,440 --> 00:16:49,880 and as you can see it's a big wide road, 299 00:16:49,920 --> 00:16:53,680 enough for horse and carriage and later automobiles. 300 00:16:54,440 --> 00:16:56,016 St Thomas was one of the stopping points 301 00:16:56,040 --> 00:16:59,040 along Los Angeles to salt lake city. 302 00:16:59,080 --> 00:17:01,600 And so, on the other side of these stumps 303 00:17:01,640 --> 00:17:03,680 we'd have buildings and businesses 304 00:17:03,720 --> 00:17:05,400 that would have supported the tourists 305 00:17:05,440 --> 00:17:07,040 that were coming into town, 306 00:17:07,080 --> 00:17:09,200 not just the people that lived here at st Thomas. 307 00:17:10,640 --> 00:17:14,080 The town was spread out over almost 200 acres. 308 00:17:14,120 --> 00:17:17,840 It had everything - stores, garages, 309 00:17:17,880 --> 00:17:19,760 it even had an ice cream parlour. 310 00:17:20,840 --> 00:17:23,480 Surrounding all this was beautiful farmland 311 00:17:23,520 --> 00:17:27,400 where feeds of wheat, cotton and other fresh produce grew. 312 00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:33,960 At its height, around 500 people lived here. 313 00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:35,480 Life was good 314 00:17:35,520 --> 00:17:38,720 and so it seemed were the prospects for the town. 315 00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:42,120 St Thomas is an established community 316 00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:43,320 at this point. 317 00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:45,840 It has a school, it has a graveyard, 318 00:17:45,880 --> 00:17:48,240 it's about the past and the future, 319 00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:51,480 and then suddenly that's all about to change. 320 00:17:52,640 --> 00:17:55,360 Walking through the barren streets today 321 00:17:55,400 --> 00:17:58,080 gives us a sense of what life was once like here. 322 00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:02,080 But there are also hints about what caused its demise. 323 00:18:03,760 --> 00:18:06,256 These shells aren't something you'd normally find in the desert, 324 00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:08,040 you'd normally find them near the ocean. 325 00:18:08,080 --> 00:18:10,840 But these shells are found all over the site here 326 00:18:10,880 --> 00:18:15,160 so it's actually a clue to what happened to this town. 327 00:18:16,760 --> 00:18:18,760 One of the key things to surviving in the desert 328 00:18:18,800 --> 00:18:19,880 is water. 329 00:18:19,920 --> 00:18:23,080 But it was actually water that led to the downfall 330 00:18:23,120 --> 00:18:24,560 of this settlement. 331 00:18:24,600 --> 00:18:28,800 A dramatic transformation was about to take place. 332 00:18:28,840 --> 00:18:32,920 The dry and dusty streets of st Thomas were swallowed up 333 00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:36,000 by a flood of biblical proportions. 334 00:18:37,120 --> 00:18:40,160 The rising waters reached st Thomas in 1938 335 00:18:40,200 --> 00:18:42,720 and filled the streets and covered the buildings, 336 00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:44,000 and ultimately, 337 00:18:44,040 --> 00:18:48,120 it reached a height of 60 feet above where the town had been. 338 00:18:48,160 --> 00:18:51,880 The desert town of st Thomas was no more. 339 00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:58,160 It must have been a really bizarre thing to watch 340 00:18:58,200 --> 00:19:01,000 because here you are in the middle of the desert 341 00:19:01,040 --> 00:19:03,000 and suddenly, you're being flooded by water. 342 00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:06,480 Perhaps the disaster came as little surprise 343 00:19:06,520 --> 00:19:08,040 to the town's citizens. 344 00:19:09,680 --> 00:19:12,120 After all they'd had years of warnings. 345 00:19:12,920 --> 00:19:14,280 In the 1920s 346 00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:17,160 plans for one of the most ambitious construction projects 347 00:19:17,200 --> 00:19:19,320 of the 20th century had been announced - 348 00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:21,200 the hoover dam. 349 00:19:24,000 --> 00:19:26,240 We're in lake mead, Nevada. 350 00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:30,360 We're near hoover dam at the bottom end of the lake, 351 00:19:30,400 --> 00:19:33,640 it stretches 85 miles today to the upper end 352 00:19:33,680 --> 00:19:35,280 where the Colorado river dumps in. 353 00:19:37,080 --> 00:19:39,360 Local resident Christopher hentzner 354 00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:42,160 has been navigating these waters for 40 years. 355 00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:46,960 When they dammed hoover dam, of course, it filled up the lake 356 00:19:47,000 --> 00:19:50,800 and basically covered the mountains and the valleys. 357 00:19:50,840 --> 00:19:54,440 Right now we're pushing 400, 450 feet deep. 358 00:19:54,480 --> 00:19:59,640 The lake contains approximately 200,000 to 300,000 acres 359 00:19:59,680 --> 00:20:01,200 of covered water. 360 00:20:02,680 --> 00:20:04,520 Work began in 1931, 361 00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:07,440 the plan was to build the world's tallest dam. 362 00:20:09,880 --> 00:20:11,360 The idea behind hoover dam 363 00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:14,760 was to harness the power of the Colorado river. 364 00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:17,120 They would use it to make electricity, 365 00:20:17,160 --> 00:20:19,760 they would also use the water for irrigation, 366 00:20:19,800 --> 00:20:21,320 they would make the desert bloom. 367 00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:25,400 The hoover dam project was going to benefit so many people 368 00:20:25,440 --> 00:20:27,080 in different states, 369 00:20:27,120 --> 00:20:29,400 but it came at a very high price to some. 370 00:20:30,360 --> 00:20:33,040 For the people of st Thomas this was a disaster 371 00:20:33,080 --> 00:20:35,160 on a very personal level, 372 00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:38,320 their homes were going to be literally washed away. 373 00:20:38,360 --> 00:20:41,080 Ancestors, their history, their stories, 374 00:20:41,120 --> 00:20:43,960 just covered up by feet of water. 375 00:20:45,600 --> 00:20:47,440 Trees were cut down, 376 00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,280 anything salvageable was removed from the town. 377 00:20:51,560 --> 00:20:53,080 And as the waters Rose, 378 00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:55,920 the last inhabitants rode away from their homes. 379 00:20:57,440 --> 00:20:59,920 But if this town was lost to the deep, 380 00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:04,040 why are its streets today filled with sand and not water? 381 00:21:04,920 --> 00:21:08,240 The answer is revealed by the watermarks on the cliffs. 382 00:21:11,920 --> 00:21:14,520 100% full is the top of the white line, 383 00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:17,640 and today we're at 42% full, 384 00:21:17,680 --> 00:21:19,960 129 feet below that line. 385 00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:24,000 The last time it was full at the top of the watermark 386 00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:25,440 was in 2000, 387 00:21:25,480 --> 00:21:28,000 but since then it's been in a steady decline. 388 00:21:28,920 --> 00:21:32,040 Years of drought and increasing demand for water 389 00:21:32,080 --> 00:21:34,120 have put enormous pressure on the supply. 390 00:21:35,400 --> 00:21:38,240 As a result the water's here have receded 391 00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:40,680 and st Thomas is exposed once again. 392 00:21:47,040 --> 00:21:51,440 St Thomas may have risen again but it gives us a stark reminder 393 00:21:51,480 --> 00:21:54,680 of the pressing need to regulate water usage 394 00:21:54,720 --> 00:21:57,240 in an ever expanding modern world. 395 00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:02,640 The bottom line, there's not enough water. 396 00:22:02,680 --> 00:22:04,880 It's a finite supply. 397 00:22:04,920 --> 00:22:08,320 It's going to require conservation on the people's part. 398 00:22:08,360 --> 00:22:12,240 Today water's the most valuable resource in the desert. 399 00:22:12,280 --> 00:22:14,000 It's the new gold. 400 00:22:22,640 --> 00:22:27,440 In Latvia, in Eastern Europe is a dilapidated set of ruins 401 00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:29,360 which are falling in to the sea. 402 00:22:33,840 --> 00:22:35,080 It's very strange you know, 403 00:22:35,120 --> 00:22:37,960 you arrive here on the baltic coast of Latvia, 404 00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:40,080 beautiful and very natural... 405 00:22:40,720 --> 00:22:44,080 ..And then you see this objects littered around the beach 406 00:22:44,120 --> 00:22:48,360 that look almost ufos that have just kind of dropped on to the beach, 407 00:22:48,400 --> 00:22:51,480 these big wheels and slabs of concrete. 408 00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:55,360 Here you see large concrete buildings 409 00:22:55,400 --> 00:22:57,600 and they have broken in half. 410 00:22:58,480 --> 00:23:04,440 It looks as if it's been struck by a major catastrophe. 411 00:23:04,480 --> 00:23:09,160 Whatever this was they spent heavily and extensively 412 00:23:09,200 --> 00:23:11,360 to build something vast. 413 00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:16,400 Strange towers, overgrown bunkers 414 00:23:16,440 --> 00:23:20,280 and other fortifications are found nearby. 415 00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:22,080 But there's more still. 416 00:23:24,240 --> 00:23:27,760 Further inland there are entirely different style of buildings 417 00:23:27,800 --> 00:23:30,080 with very different architecture, much more ornate 418 00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:33,040 but they're also crumbling, also destroyed. 419 00:23:34,240 --> 00:23:37,720 With this level of destruction across both sites 420 00:23:37,760 --> 00:23:40,840 clearly something went very horribly wrong here. 421 00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:47,160 100 years ago a bitter and bloody battle took place here... 422 00:23:48,000 --> 00:23:51,240 ..But all records of it were somehow erased from history. 423 00:23:52,360 --> 00:23:54,760 Finally, now, the ruins here 424 00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:57,440 are beginning to give up their forgotten secrets. 425 00:24:01,040 --> 00:24:03,200 At the end of the 19th century 426 00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:06,080 this stretch of coastline in modern day Latvia 427 00:24:06,120 --> 00:24:08,920 sat on the fringes of the Russian empire. 428 00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:12,640 These structures were built with the challenges 429 00:24:12,680 --> 00:24:15,720 of an ever changing world very much in mind. 430 00:24:18,120 --> 00:24:23,320 1890 the old alliance Russia is starting to fall apart 431 00:24:23,360 --> 00:24:26,760 and the Russians are clearly looking at the Germans 432 00:24:26,800 --> 00:24:29,800 as likely future enemies. 433 00:24:29,840 --> 00:24:34,400 The Russian empire is completely reorienting itself strategically 434 00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:39,400 so you see a complete focus on defending the baltic sea. 435 00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:43,520 The Russians tsar chose the port of liepaja 436 00:24:43,560 --> 00:24:45,920 for the new defensive constructions. 437 00:24:46,680 --> 00:24:50,520 They were supposed to counter that ever growing German threat. 438 00:24:51,240 --> 00:24:55,240 However time would prove them to be a grave mistake. 439 00:24:57,520 --> 00:25:01,800 Local expert kristers krafts has explored every inch of this site. 440 00:25:02,560 --> 00:25:06,920 It seemed on the surface at least to offer a formidable position 441 00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:08,800 for artillery defences. 442 00:25:10,120 --> 00:25:13,640 What we see here is a small part of the fortifications 443 00:25:13,680 --> 00:25:15,600 built here along the coast. 444 00:25:15,640 --> 00:25:18,840 This is battery number one, there are eight on the coast. 445 00:25:19,760 --> 00:25:20,880 This Cannon right here, 446 00:25:20,920 --> 00:25:23,360 it would be on a platform but rotates left to right 447 00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:26,760 and it could shoot in any direction at any ships coming on. 448 00:25:28,800 --> 00:25:32,080 The prime position also meant that a huge force 449 00:25:32,120 --> 00:25:34,960 would need to be stationed here to man the guns 450 00:25:35,000 --> 00:25:37,760 that would be trained upon the waters to the west. 451 00:25:40,560 --> 00:25:44,360 The aim was to create the mother of all coastal defences 452 00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:47,000 that no-one in their right mind would ever attack. 453 00:25:48,680 --> 00:25:51,920 These are the northern forts of karosta, 454 00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:55,520 the Russian naval war port of the city of liepaja. 455 00:25:56,640 --> 00:26:00,440 But this was only one section of a much larger system of defences 456 00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:03,040 against the inevitable German attack. 457 00:26:03,640 --> 00:26:06,280 You see the creation of a big breakwater 458 00:26:06,320 --> 00:26:08,160 that juts a mile into the sea, 459 00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:10,120 that was created so that you could then 460 00:26:10,160 --> 00:26:12,200 shelter big warships behind it 461 00:26:12,240 --> 00:26:15,480 and then all of these forts ran out by the break water 462 00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:17,160 and then all along the beach 463 00:26:17,200 --> 00:26:19,280 so that no enemy fleet could come in, 464 00:26:19,320 --> 00:26:23,080 get close enough to bombard the port, to blockade the port, 465 00:26:23,120 --> 00:26:25,480 to try to attack the port. 466 00:26:26,960 --> 00:26:30,720 From here the defensive lines then ran inland. 467 00:26:32,600 --> 00:26:37,480 The tsar's aim was to turn the port into a fortified city, 468 00:26:37,520 --> 00:26:41,040 the area was vast 14 or 15 square miles 469 00:26:41,080 --> 00:26:44,040 with coastal defences on the sea front 470 00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:46,480 and on the rest walls and moats, 471 00:26:46,520 --> 00:26:49,600 all of it protected by some of the most powerful weaponry 472 00:26:49,640 --> 00:26:51,160 that he had access to. 473 00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:54,560 At the heart of this grand fortress complex 474 00:26:54,600 --> 00:26:57,480 was everything needed to keep the port operating 475 00:26:57,520 --> 00:26:59,640 and the walls defended. 476 00:27:00,440 --> 00:27:02,920 This fortification system was huge, 477 00:27:02,960 --> 00:27:06,280 protecting the naval base, harbour of liepaja 478 00:27:06,320 --> 00:27:10,920 which would station more than 100 warships, some 20,000 soldiers. 479 00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:15,040 There would be housing for them all, gunpowder storage, laboratories, 480 00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:17,440 training centres, ship building factories 481 00:27:17,480 --> 00:27:18,640 and so on and on. 482 00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:23,120 But not everything about karosta was perfect. 483 00:27:24,200 --> 00:27:25,760 The main attraction of the site 484 00:27:25,800 --> 00:27:29,200 was that the port was ice free all year round, 485 00:27:29,240 --> 00:27:32,240 the danger though and the vulnerability 486 00:27:32,280 --> 00:27:34,680 even though it's one of the reasons for it's existence 487 00:27:34,720 --> 00:27:37,640 was it's proximity to Germany. 488 00:27:38,400 --> 00:27:43,360 The fundamental problem with this is only about 50 miles 489 00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:46,040 from the closest German port of memel. 490 00:27:46,960 --> 00:27:51,720 You are right on the front lines if a war occurs 491 00:27:51,760 --> 00:27:55,480 and you don't want to risk too much of your fleet 492 00:27:55,520 --> 00:27:57,400 right on the front lines. 493 00:27:58,560 --> 00:28:02,240 Karosta took 13 long years to build. 494 00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:06,240 But by the time it was completed in 1906 495 00:28:06,280 --> 00:28:09,720 it wasn't only it's location that was giving cause for concern. 496 00:28:11,200 --> 00:28:13,680 Basically, this place was no longer up to the job 497 00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:15,320 it was supposed to do. 498 00:28:15,360 --> 00:28:17,680 Military technologies advanced very fast, 499 00:28:17,720 --> 00:28:20,080 faster than anything else and therefore, 500 00:28:20,120 --> 00:28:22,600 there was no chance that this fortification 501 00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:25,000 could stand any longer. 502 00:28:25,040 --> 00:28:28,280 Because it was built without any metal reinforcement 503 00:28:28,320 --> 00:28:31,040 larger more destructive artillery shells 504 00:28:31,080 --> 00:28:34,160 could now easily penetrate the defences. 505 00:28:34,200 --> 00:28:39,200 So after just two years of use it was suddenly abandoned. 506 00:28:39,240 --> 00:28:41,520 When they rethought their strategy 507 00:28:41,560 --> 00:28:46,880 and they realised that this was not going to work, 508 00:28:46,920 --> 00:28:51,600 this is reduced to a relatively unimportant military installation 509 00:28:51,640 --> 00:28:53,640 by the time world war I begins. 510 00:28:54,560 --> 00:28:57,640 Having decided to abandon the northern forts, 511 00:28:57,680 --> 00:29:01,360 the Russians tried unsuccessfully to dismantle them 512 00:29:01,400 --> 00:29:04,040 so they were simply left deserted. 513 00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:08,920 I think eventually, had the tsar kept this fortress 514 00:29:08,960 --> 00:29:11,640 world war I would have destroyed it anyway. 515 00:29:11,680 --> 00:29:13,040 I don't think there is a chance 516 00:29:13,080 --> 00:29:16,080 that this would have helped the Russians if they kept it. 517 00:29:16,120 --> 00:29:19,000 However, that was not the end of the story for this fortress. 518 00:29:20,480 --> 00:29:24,240 Within a few years it would be the scene of a bitter battle 519 00:29:24,280 --> 00:29:27,200 that is largely forgotten by the history books. 520 00:29:29,280 --> 00:29:33,040 The story began in 1915 during world war I 521 00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:35,640 when German forces stormed through liepaja 522 00:29:35,680 --> 00:29:38,360 capturing the city and the fortifications. 523 00:29:39,680 --> 00:29:43,400 But the Russian empire was soon facing far greater problems. 524 00:29:44,640 --> 00:29:47,960 This period was the beginning of the end of the Russian empire. 525 00:29:48,000 --> 00:29:49,960 The vast losses sustained in the war 526 00:29:50,000 --> 00:29:53,080 and the tsar's inability to manage the war effort 527 00:29:53,120 --> 00:29:56,880 led to sweeping changes back home and the Russian revolution. 528 00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:02,400 The final Germany defeat in the first world war came in 1918. 529 00:30:03,000 --> 00:30:07,040 Soon after Latvia decided to strike out for independence. 530 00:30:08,880 --> 00:30:11,760 This movement began in the capital Riga 531 00:30:11,800 --> 00:30:15,520 but the battle soon came to the old fortress of liepaja 532 00:30:15,560 --> 00:30:18,640 and here to the redan fort. 533 00:30:19,920 --> 00:30:22,200 This little Latvian army 534 00:30:22,240 --> 00:30:25,080 that's fighting this kind of triangular conflict 535 00:30:25,120 --> 00:30:28,280 against the, the Soviets on the one front 536 00:30:28,320 --> 00:30:31,080 and these German troops coming out of Germany. 537 00:30:32,400 --> 00:30:35,360 So the Latvian army knew that the Germans are coming, 538 00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:37,720 and they had to get ready for an attack. 539 00:30:37,760 --> 00:30:40,840 But, the thing is, there were only about 50 of them here. 540 00:30:40,880 --> 00:30:43,480 There would have to be at least 100, 200 men 541 00:30:43,520 --> 00:30:46,000 to properly protect this fort. 542 00:30:46,040 --> 00:30:50,920 There should be at least ten cannons on this fort, they had none. 543 00:30:50,960 --> 00:30:53,080 It was a desperate situation, to be honest. 544 00:30:53,880 --> 00:30:56,720 With the odds now heavily stacked against them, 545 00:30:56,760 --> 00:30:59,520 the Latvian army was forced to retreat. 546 00:31:00,120 --> 00:31:02,680 The Germans duly took the fort 547 00:31:02,720 --> 00:31:05,520 but many German troops were quickly moved on 548 00:31:05,560 --> 00:31:08,760 presenting the Latvian fighters with a great opportunity. 549 00:31:09,400 --> 00:31:11,800 So, they knew if they retake this fort, 550 00:31:11,840 --> 00:31:15,560 they might just manage to get rid of Germans altogether. 551 00:31:15,600 --> 00:31:17,760 The only way to get in here is that bridge 552 00:31:17,800 --> 00:31:19,520 and probably there's German artillery, 553 00:31:19,560 --> 00:31:22,056 probably they're still outnumbered, they just didn't know that. 554 00:31:22,080 --> 00:31:25,200 They had to take their chances, use the element of surprise 555 00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:26,800 and just storm in here. 556 00:31:26,840 --> 00:31:29,040 And that's what they did, not without losses, 557 00:31:29,080 --> 00:31:31,360 but they managed to take this fort. 558 00:31:31,400 --> 00:31:34,920 A year after the world war I armistice was signed 559 00:31:34,960 --> 00:31:40,000 the fighting across liepaja brought an historic chapter to a close. 560 00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:42,680 The Latvians win, German's withdraw 561 00:31:42,720 --> 00:31:47,160 and the last act of world war I is actually finished, 562 00:31:47,200 --> 00:31:50,080 the last battle is actually liepaja. 563 00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:55,320 Ultimately it was not only war that caused the damage here... 564 00:31:56,080 --> 00:31:58,600 ..Time, neglect and nature 565 00:31:58,640 --> 00:32:01,280 have also been great forces of destruction. 566 00:32:02,480 --> 00:32:08,000 In the end it's 100 years of erosion that has destroyed these forts, 567 00:32:08,040 --> 00:32:11,160 the ground has been ripped away from under them by the sea 568 00:32:11,200 --> 00:32:14,080 and now they are simply crumbling into the water. 569 00:32:17,720 --> 00:32:22,280 Unfortunately for Latvia, independence was short lived. 570 00:32:22,320 --> 00:32:24,600 The country was forced under Soviet rule 571 00:32:24,640 --> 00:32:26,680 for much of the 20th century 572 00:32:26,720 --> 00:32:28,680 and the brief story of it's independence 573 00:32:28,720 --> 00:32:31,080 was simply stricken from the record. 574 00:32:31,120 --> 00:32:32,960 As a result these structures 575 00:32:33,000 --> 00:32:36,360 have assumed an even greater importance today. 576 00:32:36,400 --> 00:32:39,320 This part of history was completely wiped out, 577 00:32:39,360 --> 00:32:41,120 completely rewritten. 578 00:32:41,160 --> 00:32:43,120 And people were afraid to talk about it, 579 00:32:43,160 --> 00:32:45,200 to talk about it with their children 580 00:32:45,240 --> 00:32:48,960 in the fear of being deported for just mentioning these things. 581 00:32:50,160 --> 00:32:53,200 And now we want to remember all these things, 582 00:32:53,240 --> 00:32:56,600 to make them known for our people. 583 00:33:03,240 --> 00:33:05,720 200 miles east of Johannesburg, 584 00:33:05,760 --> 00:33:10,440 South Africa's biggest city is dramatic mountainous countryside. 585 00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:20,160 This desolate landscape is border region, 586 00:33:20,200 --> 00:33:23,480 this is the mountain range between Swaziland and South Africa 587 00:33:23,520 --> 00:33:27,120 and there is nothing here apart from nature. 588 00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:31,920 The mountains are craggy, it's remote, 589 00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:35,840 it's difficult to access so if you want to be there, 590 00:33:35,880 --> 00:33:37,960 there has to be a pretty good reason. 591 00:33:38,840 --> 00:33:41,840 But if you look very, very carefully, 592 00:33:41,880 --> 00:33:46,200 tucked away in places, mankind has left it's Mark 593 00:33:46,240 --> 00:33:48,600 and it's not just planting a flag. 594 00:33:49,280 --> 00:33:50,760 Dotted along the valley 595 00:33:50,800 --> 00:33:53,720 is surprising evidence of human engineering. 596 00:33:55,160 --> 00:33:59,680 All of a sudden this incredible construction comes into view. 597 00:33:59,720 --> 00:34:01,240 But we have these pylons, 598 00:34:01,280 --> 00:34:04,440 we have these tall thin lattice towers 599 00:34:04,480 --> 00:34:08,120 supporting a cable way, just a few places 600 00:34:08,160 --> 00:34:11,920 you can actually see the remains of some form of carriage. 601 00:34:12,880 --> 00:34:16,800 There are objects hanging from the cables, 602 00:34:16,840 --> 00:34:19,760 cars for holding something but where were they coming from 603 00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:21,880 and where were they going to? 604 00:34:21,920 --> 00:34:26,760 At one end the cables lead up to a sprawling mountain top site. 605 00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:30,480 Amongst the battered buildings and rusting machinery 606 00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:33,080 hang numerous eerie carriages. 607 00:34:33,120 --> 00:34:35,480 When humanity makes its Mark on the planet 608 00:34:35,520 --> 00:34:36,920 we always do it for a reason 609 00:34:36,960 --> 00:34:39,440 and here it's just hard to make that out, 610 00:34:39,480 --> 00:34:41,400 it doesn't look like a leisure set up, 611 00:34:41,440 --> 00:34:45,240 it doesn't look like a military installation. 612 00:34:46,120 --> 00:34:50,320 Whatever it was that merited this incredible effort of construction, 613 00:34:50,360 --> 00:34:53,440 has to lie the end of this cable line. 614 00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:56,920 But if it was so valuable why was it abandoned 615 00:34:56,960 --> 00:35:00,920 and why does this machinery now stand still on the landscape? 616 00:35:05,480 --> 00:35:07,120 In the late 19th century 617 00:35:07,160 --> 00:35:12,200 gold and diamond prospectors struck lucky across Southern Africa. 618 00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:15,040 Their impact was sudden and dramatic. 619 00:35:15,600 --> 00:35:18,240 The discovery of gold and diamonds changed everything 620 00:35:18,280 --> 00:35:20,200 especially in the interior of South Africa 621 00:35:20,240 --> 00:35:22,880 which was, which was very sparsely populated, 622 00:35:22,920 --> 00:35:26,240 mostly by various indigenous African groups. 623 00:35:26,280 --> 00:35:30,200 All of a sudden you have Europeans flooding in to the interior 624 00:35:30,240 --> 00:35:33,080 to export this new resource, they're going to build mines, 625 00:35:33,120 --> 00:35:35,560 they're going to build railroad lines 626 00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:39,520 and the population of the entire region is going to boom as a result. 627 00:35:41,240 --> 00:35:44,560 Salon bars, music halls and hotels 628 00:35:44,600 --> 00:35:47,360 sprung up to service the swelling population 629 00:35:47,400 --> 00:35:49,480 of the new boom town of barberton. 630 00:35:51,560 --> 00:35:55,240 Unfortunately the gold rush here was short lived 631 00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:59,440 and prospectors soon left barberton to search for gold elsewhere. 632 00:36:00,600 --> 00:36:02,640 But the few diggers left behind 633 00:36:02,680 --> 00:36:06,360 then began to unearth a very strange substance. 634 00:36:07,280 --> 00:36:10,040 The miners were looking for tell tale signs of gold 635 00:36:10,080 --> 00:36:15,120 but they found something else, this white fibrous material. 636 00:36:15,920 --> 00:36:17,680 It would be another quarter century 637 00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:19,680 before they realised just how important 638 00:36:19,720 --> 00:36:21,840 this strange fibre would be 639 00:36:21,880 --> 00:36:24,120 and their lives would be changed forever. 640 00:36:25,320 --> 00:36:27,720 This previously unknown material 641 00:36:27,760 --> 00:36:30,440 would bring yet more fortune to the region... 642 00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:33,360 ..But it came at a deadly price. 643 00:36:39,400 --> 00:36:41,680 It was mined by the havelock gold mining 644 00:36:41,720 --> 00:36:44,320 and exploration company. 645 00:36:44,360 --> 00:36:47,960 Havelock mine had one of the wonder materials of the 20th century, 646 00:36:48,000 --> 00:36:52,080 just sitting there underground waiting to be extracted. 647 00:36:53,600 --> 00:36:55,800 The mysterious fibrous material 648 00:36:55,840 --> 00:36:59,640 that for decades miners had simply cast aside 649 00:36:59,680 --> 00:37:01,400 was asbestos. 650 00:37:01,440 --> 00:37:04,480 The actual asbestos is up the top of the mountain, 651 00:37:04,520 --> 00:37:06,280 it can be extracted quite easily 652 00:37:06,320 --> 00:37:09,480 but getting it to a point where you could transport it 653 00:37:09,520 --> 00:37:11,200 is 20km away, 654 00:37:11,240 --> 00:37:13,920 water's not an option for transportation, 655 00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:16,200 roads are very, very difficult 656 00:37:16,240 --> 00:37:19,560 so they had to think in an imaginative way 657 00:37:19,600 --> 00:37:21,480 and, boy, did they. 658 00:37:22,920 --> 00:37:26,000 There are 52 towers supporting the steel ropeway 659 00:37:26,040 --> 00:37:29,200 and the overall distance is 20km. 660 00:37:29,240 --> 00:37:32,480 When it was built it was the longest cable way outside Europe. 661 00:37:34,040 --> 00:37:37,680 On a normal working day 2,500 bags, 662 00:37:37,720 --> 00:37:41,240 that's about 120 tonnes of asbestos fibre 663 00:37:41,280 --> 00:37:44,320 make this journey to the outside world. 664 00:37:44,360 --> 00:37:46,200 What a lovely way to go. 665 00:37:51,040 --> 00:37:55,640 Exploring this sprawling site is local expert Tony ferrar. 666 00:37:56,280 --> 00:37:59,760 The purpose was to transport asbestos 667 00:37:59,800 --> 00:38:02,120 to the railhead here in barberton 668 00:38:02,160 --> 00:38:06,200 and coal back to havelock mine to power the generators. 669 00:38:07,760 --> 00:38:09,720 A critical aspect of the cable wear 670 00:38:09,760 --> 00:38:12,760 was that you had to balance the goods coming out 671 00:38:12,800 --> 00:38:14,320 which was asbestos 672 00:38:14,360 --> 00:38:17,720 and the coal going back had to be exactly equal. 673 00:38:18,560 --> 00:38:20,240 Once you start using your imagination 674 00:38:20,280 --> 00:38:23,760 and you get your engineering brain in the game 675 00:38:23,800 --> 00:38:26,240 this is the obvious solution. 676 00:38:26,280 --> 00:38:30,040 Pylons, nice lightweight you can carry them up the mountain, 677 00:38:30,080 --> 00:38:32,720 bolt them all together, get them going 678 00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:35,120 and then the cable way, string that up 679 00:38:35,160 --> 00:38:39,520 and suddenly you have this moving roundabout. 680 00:38:39,560 --> 00:38:42,000 The materials were carried in cradles 681 00:38:42,040 --> 00:38:45,600 or coco pans around the 13-mile loop. 682 00:38:47,120 --> 00:38:50,520 The whole cableway is about 52 pylons 683 00:38:50,560 --> 00:38:55,400 and it would take a single coco pan two hours to do the trip. 684 00:38:55,440 --> 00:38:58,560 Behind me are the big sheds where the asbestos was stored, 685 00:38:58,600 --> 00:39:01,520 it all arrived in 50kg bags 686 00:39:01,560 --> 00:39:05,520 and was exported by rail truck to Johannesburg. 687 00:39:09,320 --> 00:39:13,400 From Johannesburg asbestos was exported worldwide 688 00:39:13,440 --> 00:39:15,680 as demand exploded. 689 00:39:16,240 --> 00:39:19,080 Insulation for homes and electric wiring, 690 00:39:19,120 --> 00:39:23,640 cement, brake pads, precast panels for buildings, 691 00:39:23,680 --> 00:39:26,280 it's uses were many and varied. 692 00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:30,240 30,000 to 40,000 tonnes of asbestos 693 00:39:30,280 --> 00:39:33,840 was shipped out to around the world every single year. 694 00:39:34,560 --> 00:39:39,680 For decades, the mine was the largest single employer in Swaziland. 695 00:39:39,720 --> 00:39:44,360 It's thousands of workers lived in the small nearby town of bulembu... 696 00:39:44,920 --> 00:39:49,120 ..They had no idea what fate had in store for them. 697 00:39:50,320 --> 00:39:53,040 No-one really knew the deadly nature of this material 698 00:39:53,080 --> 00:39:55,440 least of all the people who were mining it at the time. 699 00:39:56,360 --> 00:39:59,480 Asbestos the very, very fine fibres, 700 00:39:59,520 --> 00:40:02,600 the thing that made it such an amazing material 701 00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:04,560 also turned it into a killer. 702 00:40:05,240 --> 00:40:09,120 Asbestos contains microscopic fibres that get into the lungs 703 00:40:09,160 --> 00:40:12,400 and cause cancer and other really deadly ailments 704 00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:15,360 so the miners were not only being paid very low 705 00:40:15,400 --> 00:40:18,480 but they were also paying with their health and their lives 706 00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:20,920 to keep this industry going. 707 00:40:20,960 --> 00:40:24,960 In fact, the dangers of asbestos had been known for some time... 708 00:40:26,040 --> 00:40:29,880 ..But by the 1960s the evidence could no longer be ignored. 709 00:40:30,680 --> 00:40:32,040 Asbestos producing companies 710 00:40:32,080 --> 00:40:34,880 have long suppressed the dangers of this material, 711 00:40:34,920 --> 00:40:37,160 the knowledge that microscopic fibres 712 00:40:37,200 --> 00:40:41,120 could get into people's lungs and cause cancer 713 00:40:41,160 --> 00:40:43,520 and that was just the people who were around asbestos, 714 00:40:43,560 --> 00:40:46,880 you can imagine how dangerous it was for the workers. 715 00:40:47,760 --> 00:40:51,640 As public awareness about the dangers of asbestos increased, 716 00:40:51,680 --> 00:40:55,880 Turner and newell the British company that operated the mine was hit 717 00:40:55,920 --> 00:40:57,920 by a wave of compensation claims. 718 00:40:59,200 --> 00:41:02,640 Even as one of the largest asbestos companies in the world 719 00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:04,640 they couldn't cope. 720 00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:09,160 Then suddenly this amazing boom town had no purpose, 721 00:41:09,200 --> 00:41:11,600 the population went from 10,000 722 00:41:11,640 --> 00:41:14,320 to about 600 people almost overnight. 723 00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:16,920 And today when we look around this is what we see, 724 00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:20,880 we see the legacy of huge scale mining operation 725 00:41:20,920 --> 00:41:22,680 with no purpose anymore. 726 00:41:23,640 --> 00:41:27,440 After the mine finally closed in 2001 727 00:41:27,480 --> 00:41:30,240 Turner and newell entered voluntary bankruptcy 728 00:41:30,280 --> 00:41:34,280 to avoid compensating the remaining miners and their families. 729 00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:37,600 It also absolved them of their responsibility 730 00:41:37,640 --> 00:41:40,040 for paying to clean up the mine 731 00:41:40,080 --> 00:41:44,000 so leaving the hazardous fibres blowing in the wind. 732 00:41:54,200 --> 00:41:55,560 But happily, 733 00:41:55,600 --> 00:42:00,240 barberton has been given a new life away from gold and asbestos. 734 00:42:01,600 --> 00:42:04,320 Some of the oldest and best preserved rocks 735 00:42:04,360 --> 00:42:08,680 dating back millions of years have been discovered there 736 00:42:08,720 --> 00:42:11,200 and they are providing an invaluable window 737 00:42:11,240 --> 00:42:16,160 into how the earth evolved in to a green planet able to support life. 738 00:42:17,200 --> 00:42:19,520 Barberton born out of gold 739 00:42:19,560 --> 00:42:24,000 but now it's future is in the scientific value of these rocks. 740 00:42:24,040 --> 00:42:27,560 They were laid down at the time that life began 741 00:42:27,600 --> 00:42:29,520 and there's no bigger question in science 742 00:42:29,560 --> 00:42:34,240 than how and where did life begin and that is barberton's future, 743 00:42:34,280 --> 00:42:35,960 it's the scientific value 744 00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:38,640 attracting visitors from all over the world. 745 00:42:40,280 --> 00:42:41,960 These scientific studies 746 00:42:42,000 --> 00:42:45,920 are promising a very different and brighter future for this region, 747 00:42:45,960 --> 00:42:48,880 a future based on tourism. 748 00:42:54,920 --> 00:42:58,680 Now they are abandoned crumbling ruins, 749 00:42:58,720 --> 00:43:01,840 many remind us of dark times 750 00:43:01,880 --> 00:43:06,520 but some were once beacons of hope and progress, 751 00:43:06,560 --> 00:43:09,520 lasting testimonies to human imagination, 752 00:43:09,560 --> 00:43:12,080 enterprise and spirit. 753 00:43:12,120 --> 00:43:15,120 Captioned by ai-media ai-media. TV 62444

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