Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:02,960 --> 00:00:05,160
Narrator: Coastal
structures in Latvia
2
00:00:05,200 --> 00:00:07,000
that witnessed
a forgotten battle.
3
00:00:09,160 --> 00:00:12,080
They're so shattered and
splintered it appears almost as if
4
00:00:12,120 --> 00:00:15,200
some vast explosive
force has taken them all out
5
00:00:15,240 --> 00:00:16,240
in a chain reaction.
6
00:00:17,560 --> 00:00:22,440
A chilling site that hides
a dark world war ii secret.
7
00:00:22,480 --> 00:00:25,200
I'm instantly
seeing experiments,
8
00:00:25,240 --> 00:00:29,080
I'm seeing torture
and I'm seeing horror.
9
00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:35,080
A town in a scorching desert
that suffered an extraordinary fate.
10
00:00:36,280 --> 00:00:37,520
Something happened here
11
00:00:37,560 --> 00:00:40,360
that thoroughly
dismantled these structures
12
00:00:40,400 --> 00:00:43,840
and washed away
evidence of human habitation.
13
00:00:45,680 --> 00:00:48,400
And an epic construction project
14
00:00:48,440 --> 00:00:52,320
in the mountains of Southern Africa
that unearthed a deadly material.
15
00:00:53,640 --> 00:00:57,120
The thing that made it
such an amazing material
16
00:00:57,160 --> 00:00:58,400
also turned it into a killer.
17
00:01:05,520 --> 00:01:07,360
Decaying relics,
18
00:01:07,400 --> 00:01:09,600
ruins of lost worlds,
19
00:01:09,640 --> 00:01:13,720
forged by years of toil but
now haunted by the past.
20
00:01:14,640 --> 00:01:17,960
Their amazing secrets are
now waiting to be revealed.
21
00:01:35,800 --> 00:01:39,520
In a picturesque town
north of Berlin, Germany,
22
00:01:39,560 --> 00:01:40,920
lie the charred remains
23
00:01:40,960 --> 00:01:43,800
of a place with a
deeply troubling past.
24
00:01:48,160 --> 00:01:50,560
It's hard to discern what it is,
25
00:01:50,600 --> 00:01:53,480
it's a big kind of
hangar-like structure.
26
00:01:53,520 --> 00:01:56,200
It looks like it was
for the production
27
00:01:56,240 --> 00:01:58,160
of something important.
28
00:01:58,200 --> 00:02:03,360
It's all very secure,
it's gated and cut off...
29
00:02:03,400 --> 00:02:05,200
You're wondering why.
30
00:02:05,240 --> 00:02:08,120
It's something that's
trying to be discreet,
31
00:02:08,160 --> 00:02:13,080
it's on the outside of the
town and hidden by tall trees,
32
00:02:13,120 --> 00:02:15,640
whatever it is it's
cloaked in secrecy.
33
00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:19,160
The clues that reveal
the dark history of the site
34
00:02:19,200 --> 00:02:21,440
are to be found on the inside.
35
00:02:21,480 --> 00:02:26,120
As you come indoors, you
see these big halls and spaces
36
00:02:26,160 --> 00:02:28,600
and you've got
these massive ovens.
37
00:02:28,640 --> 00:02:31,920
Clearly, there was intense heat,
38
00:02:31,960 --> 00:02:35,040
certainly there's evidence
of a fire having taken place
39
00:02:35,080 --> 00:02:38,120
because of the scorch
marks on the walls and ceiling.
40
00:02:39,040 --> 00:02:43,320
When I see old soulless
German engineering
41
00:02:43,360 --> 00:02:45,920
rusting away with bricks
42
00:02:45,960 --> 00:02:49,320
that have got gas
piping in them and taps,
43
00:02:49,360 --> 00:02:53,280
and I think the most horrible things
about what might have happened here.
44
00:02:53,320 --> 00:02:55,480
But what you'd
think about this place
45
00:02:55,520 --> 00:02:57,360
isn't what happened here.
46
00:02:57,400 --> 00:02:59,640
It's a little bit of
a different story.
47
00:03:01,600 --> 00:03:03,040
So what did happen here?
48
00:03:03,760 --> 00:03:06,400
And why is the building
still standing today?
49
00:03:10,320 --> 00:03:14,840
The key that unlocks the secret
lies less than two miles away -
50
00:03:15,480 --> 00:03:18,240
at sachsenhausen
concentration camp.
51
00:03:20,440 --> 00:03:22,320
It was built by the Nazis
52
00:03:22,360 --> 00:03:24,760
during the years
leading up to world war ii.
53
00:03:27,120 --> 00:03:29,440
At the beginning of 1937
54
00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:33,040
there were just 21 Jewish
prisoners in sachsenhausen.
55
00:03:34,040 --> 00:03:38,880
By 1945 that number had
risen to more than 11,000.
56
00:03:40,360 --> 00:03:44,800
After the kristallnacht pogrom
of November 1938 alone,
57
00:03:44,840 --> 00:03:49,200
6,000 Jews who had been arrested
on the orders of Heinrich himmler
58
00:03:49,240 --> 00:03:50,960
were sent to sachsenhausen.
59
00:03:53,000 --> 00:03:55,760
The Nazi camp system
was expanded rapidly
60
00:03:55,800 --> 00:03:57,840
after the beginning
of world war ii,
61
00:03:57,880 --> 00:04:01,280
as the regime realised it
would need forced labour
62
00:04:01,320 --> 00:04:02,960
to maintain war production.
63
00:04:05,320 --> 00:04:08,440
Sachsenhausen is placed
on the outskirts of Berlin
64
00:04:08,480 --> 00:04:09,976
because it's hoped
that the German people
65
00:04:10,000 --> 00:04:11,640
won't know too much
about its existence.
66
00:04:12,920 --> 00:04:17,040
As the Nazi's start
to tighten their grip
67
00:04:17,080 --> 00:04:19,040
on German political life,
68
00:04:19,080 --> 00:04:21,040
more and more people
69
00:04:21,080 --> 00:04:25,400
are being pulled off the streets
of Berlin and the surrounding cities
70
00:04:25,440 --> 00:04:27,760
and locked up in this place.
71
00:04:28,560 --> 00:04:32,760
But the camp was only one
part of this terrifying crusade.
72
00:04:32,800 --> 00:04:37,040
The now decaying structure
nearby also played a key role
73
00:04:37,080 --> 00:04:39,120
in the cruel Nazi project.
74
00:04:39,160 --> 00:04:42,320
It was a place in which
prisoners were forced to work.
75
00:04:42,960 --> 00:04:46,680
You were worked seven days
a week, your ration was minimal.
76
00:04:46,720 --> 00:04:49,640
Now these weren't
specifically death camps
77
00:04:49,680 --> 00:04:54,040
but people were
worked close to death.
78
00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:57,400
This was the ss bakery,
79
00:04:58,280 --> 00:05:00,800
a place built to
feed their captors.
80
00:05:02,000 --> 00:05:04,840
As local expert Horst
seferens tells us,
81
00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:07,960
working here was simply
another form of torture.
82
00:05:09,960 --> 00:05:12,560
(Speaks in foreign language)
83
00:05:12,600 --> 00:05:15,360
Translation: "These big
stoves or the remains of them
84
00:05:15,400 --> 00:05:18,640
"had been producing
thousands of loaves of bread
85
00:05:18,680 --> 00:05:20,040
"day after day.
86
00:05:22,640 --> 00:05:24,600
"What a misery it would
have been for them
87
00:05:24,640 --> 00:05:28,040
"to see all that food being
produced here in abundance
88
00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:31,480
"while all of them and their
fellow inmates in the camp
89
00:05:31,520 --> 00:05:33,160
"were starving."
90
00:05:36,480 --> 00:05:38,240
It's a dreadful irony
91
00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:41,280
that the bakery might also
have been one of the few places
92
00:05:41,320 --> 00:05:45,120
to offer a glimmer of hope,
but the dangers were great.
93
00:05:46,400 --> 00:05:48,800
Prisoners in German
concentration camps
94
00:05:48,840 --> 00:05:51,600
were systematically starved
95
00:05:51,640 --> 00:05:55,880
so even some crusts
that had fallen off of bread
96
00:05:55,920 --> 00:05:57,680
in those industrial ovens
97
00:05:57,720 --> 00:06:01,040
might mean the difference for
them between life and death.
98
00:06:01,080 --> 00:06:02,240
You might think that,
99
00:06:02,280 --> 00:06:04,680
oh, if you took
the end of the loaf
100
00:06:04,720 --> 00:06:06,280
that they were going
to lop off anyway
101
00:06:06,320 --> 00:06:08,040
or a crust that
fell on the floor
102
00:06:08,080 --> 00:06:10,256
it would be no big deal but
of course it was a big deal.
103
00:06:10,280 --> 00:06:12,840
The German's were big
on insisting on obedience,
104
00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:14,760
you'd be mercilessly beaten.
105
00:06:15,640 --> 00:06:17,200
Despite the perils,
106
00:06:17,240 --> 00:06:20,040
a former prisoner
remembers that for some
107
00:06:20,080 --> 00:06:23,360
their desperate
circumstances left little choice.
108
00:06:25,360 --> 00:06:27,760
Translation: "He reports
that they smuggled the bread
109
00:06:27,800 --> 00:06:29,080
"into the camp.
110
00:06:30,200 --> 00:06:34,800
"By halving the loaves lengthways
tying them around their calves
111
00:06:35,560 --> 00:06:37,720
"so that they were covered
by their wide trousers
112
00:06:37,760 --> 00:06:39,600
"and could be
smuggled into the camp.
113
00:06:41,000 --> 00:06:43,520
"Of course, it was
very dangerous."
114
00:06:47,200 --> 00:06:50,200
The cruelty and
inhumane conditions here
115
00:06:50,240 --> 00:06:51,240
were shocking,
116
00:06:51,920 --> 00:06:55,080
but sachsenhausen had
another grim purpose.
117
00:06:56,520 --> 00:07:00,280
The ss, one of Hitler's
most feared organisations,
118
00:07:00,320 --> 00:07:02,400
used it as a testing ground.
119
00:07:06,320 --> 00:07:09,200
Translation: "On the second
floor of the central watchtower,
120
00:07:09,240 --> 00:07:10,720
"the so-called 'tower a',
121
00:07:11,320 --> 00:07:15,040
"through which the inmates
entered the concentration camp,
122
00:07:15,080 --> 00:07:19,240
"a machine gun was stationed
here as well as two guards
123
00:07:19,280 --> 00:07:21,960
"who were standing
here day and night.
124
00:07:22,000 --> 00:07:24,240
"One of the model
features of sachsenhausen
125
00:07:24,280 --> 00:07:26,680
"was that the guards
standing up here
126
00:07:26,720 --> 00:07:28,560
"were able to control
the entire camp
127
00:07:28,600 --> 00:07:30,000
"from this central point."
128
00:07:32,600 --> 00:07:36,640
Sachsenhausen was the first
of its kind, the dark template
129
00:07:36,680 --> 00:07:39,400
for future concentration
and death camps.
130
00:07:40,600 --> 00:07:43,360
While other sites used
a rectangular model
131
00:07:43,400 --> 00:07:45,920
rather than this
triangular shape,
132
00:07:45,960 --> 00:07:48,760
the key feature
was obvious in both -
133
00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:52,080
it provided clear lines of
sight to prevent escape.
134
00:07:52,800 --> 00:07:55,640
You would be gunned down
either by that guard at the apex
135
00:07:55,680 --> 00:07:58,120
or in the guard towers
scattered around the facility.
136
00:07:58,160 --> 00:08:00,200
There was a need that
people wouldn't escape
137
00:08:00,240 --> 00:08:01,680
because their labour was needed
138
00:08:01,720 --> 00:08:04,600
but also they didn't want people
to escape and spread the word
139
00:08:04,640 --> 00:08:06,480
of what was going
on inside these camps.
140
00:08:06,520 --> 00:08:09,720
Translation: "The concept had
a psychological effect as well,
141
00:08:09,760 --> 00:08:11,880
"wherever the prisoners
moved in the camp
142
00:08:11,920 --> 00:08:14,240
"this watchtower was to
be seen from everywhere.
143
00:08:14,280 --> 00:08:17,960
"They basically looked directly
into the hole of this machine gun
144
00:08:18,000 --> 00:08:21,800
"symbolically expressing
the total power of the ss."
145
00:08:25,120 --> 00:08:29,560
As the prototype camp this
place played another vital role
146
00:08:29,600 --> 00:08:32,640
during the early years
of the Nazi regime.
147
00:08:32,680 --> 00:08:33,880
In the mid '30s
148
00:08:33,920 --> 00:08:36,360
the Nazi's were just
starting to figure out
149
00:08:36,400 --> 00:08:38,800
how to build a
concentration camp.
150
00:08:38,840 --> 00:08:43,600
The Nazi's are hiring
ordinary police officers
151
00:08:43,640 --> 00:08:45,840
and they're hiring
ordinary tradesmen
152
00:08:45,880 --> 00:08:48,520
and sachsenhausen is the place
153
00:08:48,560 --> 00:08:54,520
where an ordinary German
can be turned into an ss killer.
154
00:08:55,400 --> 00:08:59,120
Helping to feed this dreadful
system was the bakery.
155
00:09:00,120 --> 00:09:02,640
And its success meant
that the next chapter
156
00:09:02,680 --> 00:09:05,160
in its tragic story
would soon begin.
157
00:09:09,200 --> 00:09:12,040
When world war ii begins in 1939
158
00:09:12,080 --> 00:09:15,200
and Germany massively
mobilised, calls all the reserves,
159
00:09:15,240 --> 00:09:17,040
expands conscription,
160
00:09:17,080 --> 00:09:19,840
you suddenly have a
need for bread, you know,
161
00:09:19,880 --> 00:09:22,960
to feed all the big
Garrison around Berlin.
162
00:09:23,520 --> 00:09:27,520
At the beginning
production is moderate,
163
00:09:27,560 --> 00:09:30,400
we're talking
10,000 loaves a day,
164
00:09:30,440 --> 00:09:34,680
later on, you're talking of
a much greater expansion
165
00:09:34,720 --> 00:09:38,400
of four to five times of
the original factory output.
166
00:09:40,280 --> 00:09:44,920
Everything here was soon replicated
at sites all across the German reich.
167
00:09:45,600 --> 00:09:48,560
The Nazi's had made
a success of slavery,
168
00:09:49,560 --> 00:09:53,840
so that too was increased and
expanded on a horrifying scale.
169
00:09:55,200 --> 00:09:58,240
Because this is one
of the early attempts
170
00:09:58,280 --> 00:10:01,880
to set up a large ss
industrial enterprise,
171
00:10:01,920 --> 00:10:07,360
this is used as a model
for other large ss facilities.
172
00:10:07,400 --> 00:10:09,960
By the middle of world war ii
173
00:10:10,000 --> 00:10:13,880
the ss is one of the
largest industrial operations
174
00:10:13,920 --> 00:10:14,920
in the third reich.
175
00:10:16,480 --> 00:10:20,480
Forced labour became a key
element of the Nazi war machine.
176
00:10:21,960 --> 00:10:23,960
The infamous slogan on the gate,
177
00:10:24,000 --> 00:10:28,120
"work sets you free,"
was very far from the truth.
178
00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:32,200
Translation: "In fact, working
in a concentration camp
179
00:10:32,240 --> 00:10:33,800
"had a completely
different function.
180
00:10:34,640 --> 00:10:38,560
"Work here had always
been an instrument to abuse,
181
00:10:38,600 --> 00:10:41,960
"torture and even
put prisoners to death.
182
00:10:43,040 --> 00:10:47,280
"Of course, that slogan was
used to conceal the reality."
183
00:10:48,960 --> 00:10:51,120
But in a final twist of fate
184
00:10:51,160 --> 00:10:55,000
the bakery that had helped
feed the vicious ss regime
185
00:10:55,040 --> 00:10:56,880
turned out to be the lifeline
186
00:10:56,920 --> 00:10:59,160
for those few inmates
fortunate enough
187
00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:00,600
to see the end of the war.
188
00:11:01,640 --> 00:11:04,760
It came with the liberation
of the camps by the Soviets.
189
00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:09,400
The Soviets find
this bread factory
190
00:11:09,440 --> 00:11:12,360
and they press in it into
service to feed their own troops,
191
00:11:12,400 --> 00:11:15,600
to feed the 3,000 or
so surviving inmates.
192
00:11:15,640 --> 00:11:20,320
And for these camp inmates
it must have been fantastic
193
00:11:20,360 --> 00:11:22,720
because they'd
been looking hungrily
194
00:11:22,760 --> 00:11:25,400
at these thousands of loaves
of bread made every day,
195
00:11:25,440 --> 00:11:26,680
and suddenly,
196
00:11:26,720 --> 00:11:28,560
they have the
opportunity to eat them.
197
00:11:28,600 --> 00:11:31,480
The fact that people
remained alive
198
00:11:31,520 --> 00:11:34,720
in this concentration camp
was almost miraculous.
199
00:11:34,760 --> 00:11:37,600
The fact that there
was a bakery nearby
200
00:11:37,640 --> 00:11:39,240
that could feed
them was a blessing.
201
00:11:42,600 --> 00:11:44,800
With its darkest
years now behind it,
202
00:11:44,840 --> 00:11:48,680
the bakery remained
in use until the 1990s
203
00:11:48,720 --> 00:11:50,760
when it was
devastated by a fire.
204
00:11:50,800 --> 00:11:54,240
But as the years of horror
recede further from memory,
205
00:11:54,280 --> 00:11:58,400
today the two sites are
as important as ever.
206
00:12:00,280 --> 00:12:03,480
Translation: "They testify the
very existence of these camps
207
00:12:03,520 --> 00:12:04,680
"and crimes.
208
00:12:06,200 --> 00:12:07,840
"And that cannot be denied.
209
00:12:09,600 --> 00:12:12,600
"We think that these
architectural witnesses
210
00:12:12,640 --> 00:12:15,040
"will be all the more
important in the future.
211
00:12:17,240 --> 00:12:19,840
"Because the people who
once survived the terror
212
00:12:19,880 --> 00:12:21,800
"of the ss in these camps
213
00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:25,080
"will soon no longer
be amongst us."
214
00:12:31,520 --> 00:12:37,360
In the arid plains of Nevada, usa,
miles from any signs of civilisation
215
00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:40,600
are the dusty remains
of a crumbling site.
216
00:12:45,880 --> 00:12:47,480
This is a harsh place to live,
217
00:12:47,520 --> 00:12:50,096
it's in the middle of the desert,
the sun is beating down on it,
218
00:12:50,120 --> 00:12:52,360
but it's not clear
219
00:12:52,400 --> 00:12:56,040
what exactly would have
caused such devastation.
220
00:12:57,680 --> 00:13:00,640
Everything is almost
completely dismantled,
221
00:13:00,680 --> 00:13:03,760
kind of like what you
see in a very ancient ruin.
222
00:13:05,040 --> 00:13:06,320
But when you look more closely
223
00:13:06,360 --> 00:13:08,840
you can see it's
not actually that old,
224
00:13:08,880 --> 00:13:10,760
you can see signs of concrete.
225
00:13:11,640 --> 00:13:13,280
Something swept through here,
226
00:13:13,320 --> 00:13:16,680
something's happened
to take away the structure.
227
00:13:17,960 --> 00:13:20,880
A closer inspection of
the strange features here
228
00:13:20,920 --> 00:13:23,400
begins to reveal the
bizarre chain of events
229
00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:25,400
that contributed
to its downfall.
230
00:13:26,560 --> 00:13:27,720
We're looking for clues
231
00:13:27,760 --> 00:13:29,320
and one of the
details that stands out
232
00:13:29,360 --> 00:13:33,160
is the tree trunks
just all kind of cut off.
233
00:13:33,200 --> 00:13:34,200
Another detail,
234
00:13:34,240 --> 00:13:35,896
is that everything is
incredibly weathered,
235
00:13:35,920 --> 00:13:38,920
there's no sharp edges,
there's no right angles here,
236
00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:40,200
everything's been rounded off.
237
00:13:41,040 --> 00:13:42,080
What's really strange
238
00:13:42,120 --> 00:13:44,240
is that you're in the
middle of the desert
239
00:13:44,280 --> 00:13:46,080
but there are shells
240
00:13:46,120 --> 00:13:47,960
which might actually be the clue
241
00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:50,200
that describes exactly
what happened here.
242
00:13:57,440 --> 00:13:58,800
It's really hot out here.
243
00:13:58,840 --> 00:14:00,360
We're in the mojave desert,
244
00:14:00,400 --> 00:14:03,120
and temperatures can
get up to 115 degrees
245
00:14:03,160 --> 00:14:04,200
in the summer.
246
00:14:04,240 --> 00:14:06,520
The most important
thing being out here
247
00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:08,560
is to have a lot
of water with you.
248
00:14:09,520 --> 00:14:12,720
As an archaeologist with
the national park service,
249
00:14:12,760 --> 00:14:15,360
Erin eichenberg has
made extensive studies
250
00:14:15,400 --> 00:14:17,160
of the land around the ruins.
251
00:14:17,760 --> 00:14:20,400
And she thinks that
despite the searing heat,
252
00:14:20,440 --> 00:14:22,760
the attractions of
the site were clear.
253
00:14:23,560 --> 00:14:26,200
This is a pretty
inhospitable place to live
254
00:14:26,240 --> 00:14:28,320
but because we're
near the confluence
255
00:14:28,360 --> 00:14:30,240
of the virgin and
the muddy river here
256
00:14:30,280 --> 00:14:34,000
people were able to make it work
and lived here for over 70 years.
257
00:14:37,640 --> 00:14:42,000
Based around agriculture the
settlement here once blossomed,
258
00:14:42,880 --> 00:14:44,640
but the seeds of its destruction
259
00:14:44,680 --> 00:14:47,160
were actually sown
in the mid 19th century,
260
00:14:47,200 --> 00:14:51,160
when a group of mormons arrived
hoping to establish a town here.
261
00:14:52,880 --> 00:14:55,960
When the first settlers
arrived here in 1865
262
00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:58,320
this was the middle of nowhere
263
00:14:58,360 --> 00:14:59,680
in the middle of nowhere.
264
00:15:00,480 --> 00:15:03,440
They thought they were still
within the boundaries of Utah
265
00:15:03,480 --> 00:15:06,280
but it turned out they'd
moved into Nevada.
266
00:15:07,200 --> 00:15:09,120
And when the tax
inspector turned up
267
00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:11,640
and informed them
that they weren't in Utah
268
00:15:11,680 --> 00:15:16,560
they actually decided to move on
and burnt the town to the ground.
269
00:15:16,600 --> 00:15:20,520
So what we see here today
is the next stage of this town,
270
00:15:20,560 --> 00:15:22,680
this is the following story.
271
00:15:23,720 --> 00:15:27,840
So the early settlers left
this place a burnt-out ruin.
272
00:15:28,640 --> 00:15:31,640
But it would eventually see
a second destructive event,
273
00:15:31,680 --> 00:15:32,800
and this time
274
00:15:32,840 --> 00:15:34,880
the cause could hardly
have been more different.
275
00:15:36,240 --> 00:15:39,360
This is the ghost
town of st Thomas.
276
00:15:42,520 --> 00:15:45,360
So after the mormon's moved
out, other settlers moved in,
277
00:15:45,400 --> 00:15:48,360
they started farms,
they built a village
278
00:15:48,400 --> 00:15:51,920
and they were able to establish
a pretty self-sufficient community.
279
00:15:52,920 --> 00:15:55,080
They were pretty remote,
280
00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:58,960
in the desert but they had
everything they needed,
281
00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:01,120
they had built a really
nice life for themselves,
282
00:16:01,160 --> 00:16:03,080
they didn't need for anything.
283
00:16:04,720 --> 00:16:07,840
But whilst st Thomas
began life as a hidden secret
284
00:16:07,880 --> 00:16:09,200
deep in the desert,
285
00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:12,160
the evidence here
of an old rail track
286
00:16:12,200 --> 00:16:13,320
on the edge of town
287
00:16:13,360 --> 00:16:17,200
explains why it didn't
remain secret for very long.
288
00:16:17,240 --> 00:16:18,760
At the beginning
of the 20th century
289
00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:19,960
the world is getting smaller,
290
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:22,320
america is turning
a corner at this point,
291
00:16:22,360 --> 00:16:26,040
railways are spreading across,
the population was growing,
292
00:16:26,080 --> 00:16:27,480
opportunity is out there.
293
00:16:28,120 --> 00:16:31,240
And this brings,
you know, great hope
294
00:16:31,280 --> 00:16:32,480
for the people living here.
295
00:16:34,360 --> 00:16:38,200
In the beginning, at least,
modernity bought prosperity.
296
00:16:39,800 --> 00:16:43,560
Once the railroad arrived,
the highways soon followed.
297
00:16:44,960 --> 00:16:47,400
We're on main
street of st Thomas
298
00:16:47,440 --> 00:16:49,880
and as you can see
it's a big wide road,
299
00:16:49,920 --> 00:16:53,680
enough for horse and
carriage and later automobiles.
300
00:16:54,440 --> 00:16:56,016
St Thomas was one
of the stopping points
301
00:16:56,040 --> 00:16:59,040
along Los Angeles
to salt lake city.
302
00:16:59,080 --> 00:17:01,600
And so, on the other
side of these stumps
303
00:17:01,640 --> 00:17:03,680
we'd have buildings
and businesses
304
00:17:03,720 --> 00:17:05,400
that would have
supported the tourists
305
00:17:05,440 --> 00:17:07,040
that were coming into town,
306
00:17:07,080 --> 00:17:09,200
not just the people that
lived here at st Thomas.
307
00:17:10,640 --> 00:17:14,080
The town was spread
out over almost 200 acres.
308
00:17:14,120 --> 00:17:17,840
It had everything
- stores, garages,
309
00:17:17,880 --> 00:17:19,760
it even had an
ice cream parlour.
310
00:17:20,840 --> 00:17:23,480
Surrounding all this
was beautiful farmland
311
00:17:23,520 --> 00:17:27,400
where feeds of wheat, cotton
and other fresh produce grew.
312
00:17:30,440 --> 00:17:33,960
At its height, around
500 people lived here.
313
00:17:34,000 --> 00:17:35,480
Life was good
314
00:17:35,520 --> 00:17:38,720
and so it seemed were
the prospects for the town.
315
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:42,120
St Thomas is an
established community
316
00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:43,320
at this point.
317
00:17:43,360 --> 00:17:45,840
It has a school, it
has a graveyard,
318
00:17:45,880 --> 00:17:48,240
it's about the past
and the future,
319
00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:51,480
and then suddenly
that's all about to change.
320
00:17:52,640 --> 00:17:55,360
Walking through the
barren streets today
321
00:17:55,400 --> 00:17:58,080
gives us a sense of what
life was once like here.
322
00:17:59,120 --> 00:18:02,080
But there are also hints
about what caused its demise.
323
00:18:03,760 --> 00:18:06,256
These shells aren't something
you'd normally find in the desert,
324
00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:08,040
you'd normally find
them near the ocean.
325
00:18:08,080 --> 00:18:10,840
But these shells are
found all over the site here
326
00:18:10,880 --> 00:18:15,160
so it's actually a clue to
what happened to this town.
327
00:18:16,760 --> 00:18:18,760
One of the key things
to surviving in the desert
328
00:18:18,800 --> 00:18:19,880
is water.
329
00:18:19,920 --> 00:18:23,080
But it was actually water
that led to the downfall
330
00:18:23,120 --> 00:18:24,560
of this settlement.
331
00:18:24,600 --> 00:18:28,800
A dramatic transformation
was about to take place.
332
00:18:28,840 --> 00:18:32,920
The dry and dusty streets of
st Thomas were swallowed up
333
00:18:32,960 --> 00:18:36,000
by a flood of
biblical proportions.
334
00:18:37,120 --> 00:18:40,160
The rising waters
reached st Thomas in 1938
335
00:18:40,200 --> 00:18:42,720
and filled the streets
and covered the buildings,
336
00:18:42,760 --> 00:18:44,000
and ultimately,
337
00:18:44,040 --> 00:18:48,120
it reached a height of 60 feet
above where the town had been.
338
00:18:48,160 --> 00:18:51,880
The desert town of st
Thomas was no more.
339
00:18:53,960 --> 00:18:58,160
It must have been a
really bizarre thing to watch
340
00:18:58,200 --> 00:19:01,000
because here you are
in the middle of the desert
341
00:19:01,040 --> 00:19:03,000
and suddenly, you're
being flooded by water.
342
00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:06,480
Perhaps the disaster
came as little surprise
343
00:19:06,520 --> 00:19:08,040
to the town's citizens.
344
00:19:09,680 --> 00:19:12,120
After all they'd had
years of warnings.
345
00:19:12,920 --> 00:19:14,280
In the 1920s
346
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:17,160
plans for one of the most
ambitious construction projects
347
00:19:17,200 --> 00:19:19,320
of the 20th century
had been announced -
348
00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:21,200
the hoover dam.
349
00:19:24,000 --> 00:19:26,240
We're in lake mead, Nevada.
350
00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:30,360
We're near hoover dam at
the bottom end of the lake,
351
00:19:30,400 --> 00:19:33,640
it stretches 85 miles
today to the upper end
352
00:19:33,680 --> 00:19:35,280
where the Colorado
river dumps in.
353
00:19:37,080 --> 00:19:39,360
Local resident
Christopher hentzner
354
00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:42,160
has been navigating
these waters for 40 years.
355
00:19:43,560 --> 00:19:46,960
When they dammed hoover
dam, of course, it filled up the lake
356
00:19:47,000 --> 00:19:50,800
and basically covered the
mountains and the valleys.
357
00:19:50,840 --> 00:19:54,440
Right now we're pushing
400, 450 feet deep.
358
00:19:54,480 --> 00:19:59,640
The lake contains approximately
200,000 to 300,000 acres
359
00:19:59,680 --> 00:20:01,200
of covered water.
360
00:20:02,680 --> 00:20:04,520
Work began in 1931,
361
00:20:05,160 --> 00:20:07,440
the plan was to build
the world's tallest dam.
362
00:20:09,880 --> 00:20:11,360
The idea behind hoover dam
363
00:20:11,400 --> 00:20:14,760
was to harness the
power of the Colorado river.
364
00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:17,120
They would use it
to make electricity,
365
00:20:17,160 --> 00:20:19,760
they would also use
the water for irrigation,
366
00:20:19,800 --> 00:20:21,320
they would make
the desert bloom.
367
00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:25,400
The hoover dam project was
going to benefit so many people
368
00:20:25,440 --> 00:20:27,080
in different states,
369
00:20:27,120 --> 00:20:29,400
but it came at a very
high price to some.
370
00:20:30,360 --> 00:20:33,040
For the people of st
Thomas this was a disaster
371
00:20:33,080 --> 00:20:35,160
on a very personal level,
372
00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:38,320
their homes were going
to be literally washed away.
373
00:20:38,360 --> 00:20:41,080
Ancestors, their
history, their stories,
374
00:20:41,120 --> 00:20:43,960
just covered up
by feet of water.
375
00:20:45,600 --> 00:20:47,440
Trees were cut down,
376
00:20:47,480 --> 00:20:50,280
anything salvageable
was removed from the town.
377
00:20:51,560 --> 00:20:53,080
And as the waters Rose,
378
00:20:53,120 --> 00:20:55,920
the last inhabitants rode
away from their homes.
379
00:20:57,440 --> 00:20:59,920
But if this town
was lost to the deep,
380
00:20:59,960 --> 00:21:04,040
why are its streets today
filled with sand and not water?
381
00:21:04,920 --> 00:21:08,240
The answer is revealed by
the watermarks on the cliffs.
382
00:21:11,920 --> 00:21:14,520
100% full is the
top of the white line,
383
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:17,640
and today we're at 42% full,
384
00:21:17,680 --> 00:21:19,960
129 feet below that line.
385
00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:24,000
The last time it was full
at the top of the watermark
386
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:25,440
was in 2000,
387
00:21:25,480 --> 00:21:28,000
but since then it's
been in a steady decline.
388
00:21:28,920 --> 00:21:32,040
Years of drought and
increasing demand for water
389
00:21:32,080 --> 00:21:34,120
have put enormous
pressure on the supply.
390
00:21:35,400 --> 00:21:38,240
As a result the water's
here have receded
391
00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:40,680
and st Thomas is
exposed once again.
392
00:21:47,040 --> 00:21:51,440
St Thomas may have risen again
but it gives us a stark reminder
393
00:21:51,480 --> 00:21:54,680
of the pressing need
to regulate water usage
394
00:21:54,720 --> 00:21:57,240
in an ever expanding
modern world.
395
00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:02,640
The bottom line,
there's not enough water.
396
00:22:02,680 --> 00:22:04,880
It's a finite supply.
397
00:22:04,920 --> 00:22:08,320
It's going to require
conservation on the people's part.
398
00:22:08,360 --> 00:22:12,240
Today water's the most
valuable resource in the desert.
399
00:22:12,280 --> 00:22:14,000
It's the new gold.
400
00:22:22,640 --> 00:22:27,440
In Latvia, in Eastern Europe
is a dilapidated set of ruins
401
00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:29,360
which are falling in to the sea.
402
00:22:33,840 --> 00:22:35,080
It's very strange you know,
403
00:22:35,120 --> 00:22:37,960
you arrive here on the
baltic coast of Latvia,
404
00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:40,080
beautiful and very natural...
405
00:22:40,720 --> 00:22:44,080
..And then you see this
objects littered around the beach
406
00:22:44,120 --> 00:22:48,360
that look almost ufos that have
just kind of dropped on to the beach,
407
00:22:48,400 --> 00:22:51,480
these big wheels
and slabs of concrete.
408
00:22:52,240 --> 00:22:55,360
Here you see large
concrete buildings
409
00:22:55,400 --> 00:22:57,600
and they have broken in half.
410
00:22:58,480 --> 00:23:04,440
It looks as if it's been struck
by a major catastrophe.
411
00:23:04,480 --> 00:23:09,160
Whatever this was they
spent heavily and extensively
412
00:23:09,200 --> 00:23:11,360
to build something vast.
413
00:23:13,440 --> 00:23:16,400
Strange towers,
overgrown bunkers
414
00:23:16,440 --> 00:23:20,280
and other fortifications
are found nearby.
415
00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:22,080
But there's more still.
416
00:23:24,240 --> 00:23:27,760
Further inland there are
entirely different style of buildings
417
00:23:27,800 --> 00:23:30,080
with very different
architecture, much more ornate
418
00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:33,040
but they're also
crumbling, also destroyed.
419
00:23:34,240 --> 00:23:37,720
With this level of
destruction across both sites
420
00:23:37,760 --> 00:23:40,840
clearly something went
very horribly wrong here.
421
00:23:42,440 --> 00:23:47,160
100 years ago a bitter and
bloody battle took place here...
422
00:23:48,000 --> 00:23:51,240
..But all records of it were
somehow erased from history.
423
00:23:52,360 --> 00:23:54,760
Finally, now, the ruins here
424
00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:57,440
are beginning to give
up their forgotten secrets.
425
00:24:01,040 --> 00:24:03,200
At the end of the 19th century
426
00:24:03,240 --> 00:24:06,080
this stretch of coastline
in modern day Latvia
427
00:24:06,120 --> 00:24:08,920
sat on the fringes of
the Russian empire.
428
00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:12,640
These structures were
built with the challenges
429
00:24:12,680 --> 00:24:15,720
of an ever changing
world very much in mind.
430
00:24:18,120 --> 00:24:23,320
1890 the old alliance
Russia is starting to fall apart
431
00:24:23,360 --> 00:24:26,760
and the Russians are
clearly looking at the Germans
432
00:24:26,800 --> 00:24:29,800
as likely future enemies.
433
00:24:29,840 --> 00:24:34,400
The Russian empire is completely
reorienting itself strategically
434
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:39,400
so you see a complete focus
on defending the baltic sea.
435
00:24:40,880 --> 00:24:43,520
The Russians tsar
chose the port of liepaja
436
00:24:43,560 --> 00:24:45,920
for the new defensive
constructions.
437
00:24:46,680 --> 00:24:50,520
They were supposed to counter
that ever growing German threat.
438
00:24:51,240 --> 00:24:55,240
However time would prove
them to be a grave mistake.
439
00:24:57,520 --> 00:25:01,800
Local expert kristers krafts has
explored every inch of this site.
440
00:25:02,560 --> 00:25:06,920
It seemed on the surface at
least to offer a formidable position
441
00:25:06,960 --> 00:25:08,800
for artillery defences.
442
00:25:10,120 --> 00:25:13,640
What we see here is a
small part of the fortifications
443
00:25:13,680 --> 00:25:15,600
built here along the coast.
444
00:25:15,640 --> 00:25:18,840
This is battery number one,
there are eight on the coast.
445
00:25:19,760 --> 00:25:20,880
This Cannon right here,
446
00:25:20,920 --> 00:25:23,360
it would be on a platform
but rotates left to right
447
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:26,760
and it could shoot in any
direction at any ships coming on.
448
00:25:28,800 --> 00:25:32,080
The prime position also
meant that a huge force
449
00:25:32,120 --> 00:25:34,960
would need to be stationed
here to man the guns
450
00:25:35,000 --> 00:25:37,760
that would be trained
upon the waters to the west.
451
00:25:40,560 --> 00:25:44,360
The aim was to create the
mother of all coastal defences
452
00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:47,000
that no-one in their right
mind would ever attack.
453
00:25:48,680 --> 00:25:51,920
These are the
northern forts of karosta,
454
00:25:51,960 --> 00:25:55,520
the Russian naval war
port of the city of liepaja.
455
00:25:56,640 --> 00:26:00,440
But this was only one section of
a much larger system of defences
456
00:26:00,480 --> 00:26:03,040
against the inevitable
German attack.
457
00:26:03,640 --> 00:26:06,280
You see the creation
of a big breakwater
458
00:26:06,320 --> 00:26:08,160
that juts a mile into the sea,
459
00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:10,120
that was created so
that you could then
460
00:26:10,160 --> 00:26:12,200
shelter big warships behind it
461
00:26:12,240 --> 00:26:15,480
and then all of these forts
ran out by the break water
462
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:17,160
and then all along the beach
463
00:26:17,200 --> 00:26:19,280
so that no enemy
fleet could come in,
464
00:26:19,320 --> 00:26:23,080
get close enough to bombard
the port, to blockade the port,
465
00:26:23,120 --> 00:26:25,480
to try to attack the port.
466
00:26:26,960 --> 00:26:30,720
From here the defensive
lines then ran inland.
467
00:26:32,600 --> 00:26:37,480
The tsar's aim was to turn
the port into a fortified city,
468
00:26:37,520 --> 00:26:41,040
the area was vast
14 or 15 square miles
469
00:26:41,080 --> 00:26:44,040
with coastal defences
on the sea front
470
00:26:44,080 --> 00:26:46,480
and on the rest walls and moats,
471
00:26:46,520 --> 00:26:49,600
all of it protected by some of
the most powerful weaponry
472
00:26:49,640 --> 00:26:51,160
that he had access to.
473
00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:54,560
At the heart of this
grand fortress complex
474
00:26:54,600 --> 00:26:57,480
was everything needed
to keep the port operating
475
00:26:57,520 --> 00:26:59,640
and the walls defended.
476
00:27:00,440 --> 00:27:02,920
This fortification
system was huge,
477
00:27:02,960 --> 00:27:06,280
protecting the naval
base, harbour of liepaja
478
00:27:06,320 --> 00:27:10,920
which would station more than
100 warships, some 20,000 soldiers.
479
00:27:10,960 --> 00:27:15,040
There would be housing for them
all, gunpowder storage, laboratories,
480
00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:17,440
training centres,
ship building factories
481
00:27:17,480 --> 00:27:18,640
and so on and on.
482
00:27:19,960 --> 00:27:23,120
But not everything
about karosta was perfect.
483
00:27:24,200 --> 00:27:25,760
The main attraction of the site
484
00:27:25,800 --> 00:27:29,200
was that the port was
ice free all year round,
485
00:27:29,240 --> 00:27:32,240
the danger though
and the vulnerability
486
00:27:32,280 --> 00:27:34,680
even though it's one of
the reasons for it's existence
487
00:27:34,720 --> 00:27:37,640
was it's proximity to Germany.
488
00:27:38,400 --> 00:27:43,360
The fundamental problem
with this is only about 50 miles
489
00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:46,040
from the closest
German port of memel.
490
00:27:46,960 --> 00:27:51,720
You are right on the
front lines if a war occurs
491
00:27:51,760 --> 00:27:55,480
and you don't want to
risk too much of your fleet
492
00:27:55,520 --> 00:27:57,400
right on the front lines.
493
00:27:58,560 --> 00:28:02,240
Karosta took 13
long years to build.
494
00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:06,240
But by the time it
was completed in 1906
495
00:28:06,280 --> 00:28:09,720
it wasn't only it's location that
was giving cause for concern.
496
00:28:11,200 --> 00:28:13,680
Basically, this place was
no longer up to the job
497
00:28:13,720 --> 00:28:15,320
it was supposed to do.
498
00:28:15,360 --> 00:28:17,680
Military technologies
advanced very fast,
499
00:28:17,720 --> 00:28:20,080
faster than anything
else and therefore,
500
00:28:20,120 --> 00:28:22,600
there was no chance
that this fortification
501
00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:25,000
could stand any longer.
502
00:28:25,040 --> 00:28:28,280
Because it was built without
any metal reinforcement
503
00:28:28,320 --> 00:28:31,040
larger more destructive
artillery shells
504
00:28:31,080 --> 00:28:34,160
could now easily
penetrate the defences.
505
00:28:34,200 --> 00:28:39,200
So after just two years of use
it was suddenly abandoned.
506
00:28:39,240 --> 00:28:41,520
When they rethought
their strategy
507
00:28:41,560 --> 00:28:46,880
and they realised that
this was not going to work,
508
00:28:46,920 --> 00:28:51,600
this is reduced to a relatively
unimportant military installation
509
00:28:51,640 --> 00:28:53,640
by the time world war I begins.
510
00:28:54,560 --> 00:28:57,640
Having decided to
abandon the northern forts,
511
00:28:57,680 --> 00:29:01,360
the Russians tried
unsuccessfully to dismantle them
512
00:29:01,400 --> 00:29:04,040
so they were
simply left deserted.
513
00:29:04,840 --> 00:29:08,920
I think eventually, had
the tsar kept this fortress
514
00:29:08,960 --> 00:29:11,640
world war I would have
destroyed it anyway.
515
00:29:11,680 --> 00:29:13,040
I don't think there is a chance
516
00:29:13,080 --> 00:29:16,080
that this would have helped
the Russians if they kept it.
517
00:29:16,120 --> 00:29:19,000
However, that was not the
end of the story for this fortress.
518
00:29:20,480 --> 00:29:24,240
Within a few years it would
be the scene of a bitter battle
519
00:29:24,280 --> 00:29:27,200
that is largely forgotten
by the history books.
520
00:29:29,280 --> 00:29:33,040
The story began in
1915 during world war I
521
00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:35,640
when German forces
stormed through liepaja
522
00:29:35,680 --> 00:29:38,360
capturing the city
and the fortifications.
523
00:29:39,680 --> 00:29:43,400
But the Russian empire was
soon facing far greater problems.
524
00:29:44,640 --> 00:29:47,960
This period was the beginning
of the end of the Russian empire.
525
00:29:48,000 --> 00:29:49,960
The vast losses
sustained in the war
526
00:29:50,000 --> 00:29:53,080
and the tsar's inability
to manage the war effort
527
00:29:53,120 --> 00:29:56,880
led to sweeping changes back
home and the Russian revolution.
528
00:29:58,000 --> 00:30:02,400
The final Germany defeat in
the first world war came in 1918.
529
00:30:03,000 --> 00:30:07,040
Soon after Latvia decided to
strike out for independence.
530
00:30:08,880 --> 00:30:11,760
This movement began
in the capital Riga
531
00:30:11,800 --> 00:30:15,520
but the battle soon came
to the old fortress of liepaja
532
00:30:15,560 --> 00:30:18,640
and here to the redan fort.
533
00:30:19,920 --> 00:30:22,200
This little Latvian army
534
00:30:22,240 --> 00:30:25,080
that's fighting this kind
of triangular conflict
535
00:30:25,120 --> 00:30:28,280
against the, the
Soviets on the one front
536
00:30:28,320 --> 00:30:31,080
and these German troops
coming out of Germany.
537
00:30:32,400 --> 00:30:35,360
So the Latvian army knew
that the Germans are coming,
538
00:30:35,400 --> 00:30:37,720
and they had to get
ready for an attack.
539
00:30:37,760 --> 00:30:40,840
But, the thing is, there were
only about 50 of them here.
540
00:30:40,880 --> 00:30:43,480
There would have to
be at least 100, 200 men
541
00:30:43,520 --> 00:30:46,000
to properly protect this fort.
542
00:30:46,040 --> 00:30:50,920
There should be at least ten
cannons on this fort, they had none.
543
00:30:50,960 --> 00:30:53,080
It was a desperate
situation, to be honest.
544
00:30:53,880 --> 00:30:56,720
With the odds now heavily
stacked against them,
545
00:30:56,760 --> 00:30:59,520
the Latvian army
was forced to retreat.
546
00:31:00,120 --> 00:31:02,680
The Germans duly took the fort
547
00:31:02,720 --> 00:31:05,520
but many German troops
were quickly moved on
548
00:31:05,560 --> 00:31:08,760
presenting the Latvian
fighters with a great opportunity.
549
00:31:09,400 --> 00:31:11,800
So, they knew if
they retake this fort,
550
00:31:11,840 --> 00:31:15,560
they might just manage to
get rid of Germans altogether.
551
00:31:15,600 --> 00:31:17,760
The only way to get
in here is that bridge
552
00:31:17,800 --> 00:31:19,520
and probably there's
German artillery,
553
00:31:19,560 --> 00:31:22,056
probably they're still outnumbered,
they just didn't know that.
554
00:31:22,080 --> 00:31:25,200
They had to take their chances,
use the element of surprise
555
00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:26,800
and just storm in here.
556
00:31:26,840 --> 00:31:29,040
And that's what they
did, not without losses,
557
00:31:29,080 --> 00:31:31,360
but they managed
to take this fort.
558
00:31:31,400 --> 00:31:34,920
A year after the world
war I armistice was signed
559
00:31:34,960 --> 00:31:40,000
the fighting across liepaja brought
an historic chapter to a close.
560
00:31:40,040 --> 00:31:42,680
The Latvians win,
German's withdraw
561
00:31:42,720 --> 00:31:47,160
and the last act of world
war I is actually finished,
562
00:31:47,200 --> 00:31:50,080
the last battle is
actually liepaja.
563
00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:55,320
Ultimately it was not only war
that caused the damage here...
564
00:31:56,080 --> 00:31:58,600
..Time, neglect and nature
565
00:31:58,640 --> 00:32:01,280
have also been great
forces of destruction.
566
00:32:02,480 --> 00:32:08,000
In the end it's 100 years of erosion
that has destroyed these forts,
567
00:32:08,040 --> 00:32:11,160
the ground has been ripped
away from under them by the sea
568
00:32:11,200 --> 00:32:14,080
and now they are simply
crumbling into the water.
569
00:32:17,720 --> 00:32:22,280
Unfortunately for Latvia,
independence was short lived.
570
00:32:22,320 --> 00:32:24,600
The country was
forced under Soviet rule
571
00:32:24,640 --> 00:32:26,680
for much of the 20th century
572
00:32:26,720 --> 00:32:28,680
and the brief story
of it's independence
573
00:32:28,720 --> 00:32:31,080
was simply stricken
from the record.
574
00:32:31,120 --> 00:32:32,960
As a result these structures
575
00:32:33,000 --> 00:32:36,360
have assumed an even
greater importance today.
576
00:32:36,400 --> 00:32:39,320
This part of history was
completely wiped out,
577
00:32:39,360 --> 00:32:41,120
completely rewritten.
578
00:32:41,160 --> 00:32:43,120
And people were
afraid to talk about it,
579
00:32:43,160 --> 00:32:45,200
to talk about it
with their children
580
00:32:45,240 --> 00:32:48,960
in the fear of being deported
for just mentioning these things.
581
00:32:50,160 --> 00:32:53,200
And now we want to
remember all these things,
582
00:32:53,240 --> 00:32:56,600
to make them
known for our people.
583
00:33:03,240 --> 00:33:05,720
200 miles east of Johannesburg,
584
00:33:05,760 --> 00:33:10,440
South Africa's biggest city is
dramatic mountainous countryside.
585
00:33:17,000 --> 00:33:20,160
This desolate landscape
is border region,
586
00:33:20,200 --> 00:33:23,480
this is the mountain range
between Swaziland and South Africa
587
00:33:23,520 --> 00:33:27,120
and there is nothing
here apart from nature.
588
00:33:28,880 --> 00:33:31,920
The mountains are
craggy, it's remote,
589
00:33:31,960 --> 00:33:35,840
it's difficult to access
so if you want to be there,
590
00:33:35,880 --> 00:33:37,960
there has to be a
pretty good reason.
591
00:33:38,840 --> 00:33:41,840
But if you look
very, very carefully,
592
00:33:41,880 --> 00:33:46,200
tucked away in places,
mankind has left it's Mark
593
00:33:46,240 --> 00:33:48,600
and it's not just
planting a flag.
594
00:33:49,280 --> 00:33:50,760
Dotted along the valley
595
00:33:50,800 --> 00:33:53,720
is surprising evidence
of human engineering.
596
00:33:55,160 --> 00:33:59,680
All of a sudden this incredible
construction comes into view.
597
00:33:59,720 --> 00:34:01,240
But we have these pylons,
598
00:34:01,280 --> 00:34:04,440
we have these tall
thin lattice towers
599
00:34:04,480 --> 00:34:08,120
supporting a cable
way, just a few places
600
00:34:08,160 --> 00:34:11,920
you can actually see the
remains of some form of carriage.
601
00:34:12,880 --> 00:34:16,800
There are objects
hanging from the cables,
602
00:34:16,840 --> 00:34:19,760
cars for holding something but
where were they coming from
603
00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:21,880
and where were they going to?
604
00:34:21,920 --> 00:34:26,760
At one end the cables lead up
to a sprawling mountain top site.
605
00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:30,480
Amongst the battered
buildings and rusting machinery
606
00:34:30,520 --> 00:34:33,080
hang numerous eerie carriages.
607
00:34:33,120 --> 00:34:35,480
When humanity makes
its Mark on the planet
608
00:34:35,520 --> 00:34:36,920
we always do it for a reason
609
00:34:36,960 --> 00:34:39,440
and here it's just
hard to make that out,
610
00:34:39,480 --> 00:34:41,400
it doesn't look like
a leisure set up,
611
00:34:41,440 --> 00:34:45,240
it doesn't look like
a military installation.
612
00:34:46,120 --> 00:34:50,320
Whatever it was that merited
this incredible effort of construction,
613
00:34:50,360 --> 00:34:53,440
has to lie the end
of this cable line.
614
00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:56,920
But if it was so valuable
why was it abandoned
615
00:34:56,960 --> 00:35:00,920
and why does this machinery
now stand still on the landscape?
616
00:35:05,480 --> 00:35:07,120
In the late 19th century
617
00:35:07,160 --> 00:35:12,200
gold and diamond prospectors
struck lucky across Southern Africa.
618
00:35:12,240 --> 00:35:15,040
Their impact was
sudden and dramatic.
619
00:35:15,600 --> 00:35:18,240
The discovery of gold and
diamonds changed everything
620
00:35:18,280 --> 00:35:20,200
especially in the
interior of South Africa
621
00:35:20,240 --> 00:35:22,880
which was, which was
very sparsely populated,
622
00:35:22,920 --> 00:35:26,240
mostly by various
indigenous African groups.
623
00:35:26,280 --> 00:35:30,200
All of a sudden you have
Europeans flooding in to the interior
624
00:35:30,240 --> 00:35:33,080
to export this new resource,
they're going to build mines,
625
00:35:33,120 --> 00:35:35,560
they're going to
build railroad lines
626
00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:39,520
and the population of the entire
region is going to boom as a result.
627
00:35:41,240 --> 00:35:44,560
Salon bars, music
halls and hotels
628
00:35:44,600 --> 00:35:47,360
sprung up to service
the swelling population
629
00:35:47,400 --> 00:35:49,480
of the new boom
town of barberton.
630
00:35:51,560 --> 00:35:55,240
Unfortunately the gold
rush here was short lived
631
00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:59,440
and prospectors soon left barberton
to search for gold elsewhere.
632
00:36:00,600 --> 00:36:02,640
But the few diggers left behind
633
00:36:02,680 --> 00:36:06,360
then began to unearth a
very strange substance.
634
00:36:07,280 --> 00:36:10,040
The miners were looking
for tell tale signs of gold
635
00:36:10,080 --> 00:36:15,120
but they found something
else, this white fibrous material.
636
00:36:15,920 --> 00:36:17,680
It would be another
quarter century
637
00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:19,680
before they realised
just how important
638
00:36:19,720 --> 00:36:21,840
this strange fibre would be
639
00:36:21,880 --> 00:36:24,120
and their lives would
be changed forever.
640
00:36:25,320 --> 00:36:27,720
This previously unknown material
641
00:36:27,760 --> 00:36:30,440
would bring yet more
fortune to the region...
642
00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:33,360
..But it came at a deadly price.
643
00:36:39,400 --> 00:36:41,680
It was mined by the
havelock gold mining
644
00:36:41,720 --> 00:36:44,320
and exploration company.
645
00:36:44,360 --> 00:36:47,960
Havelock mine had one of the
wonder materials of the 20th century,
646
00:36:48,000 --> 00:36:52,080
just sitting there underground
waiting to be extracted.
647
00:36:53,600 --> 00:36:55,800
The mysterious fibrous material
648
00:36:55,840 --> 00:36:59,640
that for decades miners
had simply cast aside
649
00:36:59,680 --> 00:37:01,400
was asbestos.
650
00:37:01,440 --> 00:37:04,480
The actual asbestos is
up the top of the mountain,
651
00:37:04,520 --> 00:37:06,280
it can be extracted quite easily
652
00:37:06,320 --> 00:37:09,480
but getting it to a point
where you could transport it
653
00:37:09,520 --> 00:37:11,200
is 20km away,
654
00:37:11,240 --> 00:37:13,920
water's not an option
for transportation,
655
00:37:13,960 --> 00:37:16,200
roads are very, very difficult
656
00:37:16,240 --> 00:37:19,560
so they had to think
in an imaginative way
657
00:37:19,600 --> 00:37:21,480
and, boy, did they.
658
00:37:22,920 --> 00:37:26,000
There are 52 towers
supporting the steel ropeway
659
00:37:26,040 --> 00:37:29,200
and the overall
distance is 20km.
660
00:37:29,240 --> 00:37:32,480
When it was built it was the
longest cable way outside Europe.
661
00:37:34,040 --> 00:37:37,680
On a normal working
day 2,500 bags,
662
00:37:37,720 --> 00:37:41,240
that's about 120
tonnes of asbestos fibre
663
00:37:41,280 --> 00:37:44,320
make this journey
to the outside world.
664
00:37:44,360 --> 00:37:46,200
What a lovely way to go.
665
00:37:51,040 --> 00:37:55,640
Exploring this sprawling
site is local expert Tony ferrar.
666
00:37:56,280 --> 00:37:59,760
The purpose was
to transport asbestos
667
00:37:59,800 --> 00:38:02,120
to the railhead
here in barberton
668
00:38:02,160 --> 00:38:06,200
and coal back to havelock
mine to power the generators.
669
00:38:07,760 --> 00:38:09,720
A critical aspect
of the cable wear
670
00:38:09,760 --> 00:38:12,760
was that you had to
balance the goods coming out
671
00:38:12,800 --> 00:38:14,320
which was asbestos
672
00:38:14,360 --> 00:38:17,720
and the coal going back
had to be exactly equal.
673
00:38:18,560 --> 00:38:20,240
Once you start using
your imagination
674
00:38:20,280 --> 00:38:23,760
and you get your
engineering brain in the game
675
00:38:23,800 --> 00:38:26,240
this is the obvious solution.
676
00:38:26,280 --> 00:38:30,040
Pylons, nice lightweight you
can carry them up the mountain,
677
00:38:30,080 --> 00:38:32,720
bolt them all together,
get them going
678
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:35,120
and then the cable
way, string that up
679
00:38:35,160 --> 00:38:39,520
and suddenly you have
this moving roundabout.
680
00:38:39,560 --> 00:38:42,000
The materials were
carried in cradles
681
00:38:42,040 --> 00:38:45,600
or coco pans around
the 13-mile loop.
682
00:38:47,120 --> 00:38:50,520
The whole cableway
is about 52 pylons
683
00:38:50,560 --> 00:38:55,400
and it would take a single
coco pan two hours to do the trip.
684
00:38:55,440 --> 00:38:58,560
Behind me are the big sheds
where the asbestos was stored,
685
00:38:58,600 --> 00:39:01,520
it all arrived in 50kg bags
686
00:39:01,560 --> 00:39:05,520
and was exported by
rail truck to Johannesburg.
687
00:39:09,320 --> 00:39:13,400
From Johannesburg asbestos
was exported worldwide
688
00:39:13,440 --> 00:39:15,680
as demand exploded.
689
00:39:16,240 --> 00:39:19,080
Insulation for homes
and electric wiring,
690
00:39:19,120 --> 00:39:23,640
cement, brake pads,
precast panels for buildings,
691
00:39:23,680 --> 00:39:26,280
it's uses were many and varied.
692
00:39:26,960 --> 00:39:30,240
30,000 to 40,000
tonnes of asbestos
693
00:39:30,280 --> 00:39:33,840
was shipped out to around
the world every single year.
694
00:39:34,560 --> 00:39:39,680
For decades, the mine was the
largest single employer in Swaziland.
695
00:39:39,720 --> 00:39:44,360
It's thousands of workers lived in
the small nearby town of bulembu...
696
00:39:44,920 --> 00:39:49,120
..They had no idea what
fate had in store for them.
697
00:39:50,320 --> 00:39:53,040
No-one really knew the
deadly nature of this material
698
00:39:53,080 --> 00:39:55,440
least of all the people who
were mining it at the time.
699
00:39:56,360 --> 00:39:59,480
Asbestos the very,
very fine fibres,
700
00:39:59,520 --> 00:40:02,600
the thing that made it
such an amazing material
701
00:40:02,640 --> 00:40:04,560
also turned it into a killer.
702
00:40:05,240 --> 00:40:09,120
Asbestos contains microscopic
fibres that get into the lungs
703
00:40:09,160 --> 00:40:12,400
and cause cancer and
other really deadly ailments
704
00:40:12,440 --> 00:40:15,360
so the miners were not
only being paid very low
705
00:40:15,400 --> 00:40:18,480
but they were also paying
with their health and their lives
706
00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:20,920
to keep this industry going.
707
00:40:20,960 --> 00:40:24,960
In fact, the dangers of asbestos
had been known for some time...
708
00:40:26,040 --> 00:40:29,880
..But by the 1960s the evidence
could no longer be ignored.
709
00:40:30,680 --> 00:40:32,040
Asbestos producing companies
710
00:40:32,080 --> 00:40:34,880
have long suppressed
the dangers of this material,
711
00:40:34,920 --> 00:40:37,160
the knowledge that
microscopic fibres
712
00:40:37,200 --> 00:40:41,120
could get into people's
lungs and cause cancer
713
00:40:41,160 --> 00:40:43,520
and that was just the people
who were around asbestos,
714
00:40:43,560 --> 00:40:46,880
you can imagine how
dangerous it was for the workers.
715
00:40:47,760 --> 00:40:51,640
As public awareness about the
dangers of asbestos increased,
716
00:40:51,680 --> 00:40:55,880
Turner and newell the British
company that operated the mine was hit
717
00:40:55,920 --> 00:40:57,920
by a wave of
compensation claims.
718
00:40:59,200 --> 00:41:02,640
Even as one of the largest
asbestos companies in the world
719
00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:04,640
they couldn't cope.
720
00:41:04,680 --> 00:41:09,160
Then suddenly this amazing
boom town had no purpose,
721
00:41:09,200 --> 00:41:11,600
the population went from 10,000
722
00:41:11,640 --> 00:41:14,320
to about 600 people
almost overnight.
723
00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:16,920
And today when we look
around this is what we see,
724
00:41:16,960 --> 00:41:20,880
we see the legacy of
huge scale mining operation
725
00:41:20,920 --> 00:41:22,680
with no purpose anymore.
726
00:41:23,640 --> 00:41:27,440
After the mine
finally closed in 2001
727
00:41:27,480 --> 00:41:30,240
Turner and newell entered
voluntary bankruptcy
728
00:41:30,280 --> 00:41:34,280
to avoid compensating the
remaining miners and their families.
729
00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:37,600
It also absolved them
of their responsibility
730
00:41:37,640 --> 00:41:40,040
for paying to clean up the mine
731
00:41:40,080 --> 00:41:44,000
so leaving the hazardous
fibres blowing in the wind.
732
00:41:54,200 --> 00:41:55,560
But happily,
733
00:41:55,600 --> 00:42:00,240
barberton has been given a new
life away from gold and asbestos.
734
00:42:01,600 --> 00:42:04,320
Some of the oldest
and best preserved rocks
735
00:42:04,360 --> 00:42:08,680
dating back millions of years
have been discovered there
736
00:42:08,720 --> 00:42:11,200
and they are providing
an invaluable window
737
00:42:11,240 --> 00:42:16,160
into how the earth evolved in to
a green planet able to support life.
738
00:42:17,200 --> 00:42:19,520
Barberton born out of gold
739
00:42:19,560 --> 00:42:24,000
but now it's future is in the
scientific value of these rocks.
740
00:42:24,040 --> 00:42:27,560
They were laid down at
the time that life began
741
00:42:27,600 --> 00:42:29,520
and there's no bigger
question in science
742
00:42:29,560 --> 00:42:34,240
than how and where did life
begin and that is barberton's future,
743
00:42:34,280 --> 00:42:35,960
it's the scientific value
744
00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:38,640
attracting visitors
from all over the world.
745
00:42:40,280 --> 00:42:41,960
These scientific studies
746
00:42:42,000 --> 00:42:45,920
are promising a very different
and brighter future for this region,
747
00:42:45,960 --> 00:42:48,880
a future based on tourism.
748
00:42:54,920 --> 00:42:58,680
Now they are abandoned
crumbling ruins,
749
00:42:58,720 --> 00:43:01,840
many remind us of dark times
750
00:43:01,880 --> 00:43:06,520
but some were once
beacons of hope and progress,
751
00:43:06,560 --> 00:43:09,520
lasting testimonies
to human imagination,
752
00:43:09,560 --> 00:43:12,080
enterprise and spirit.
753
00:43:12,120 --> 00:43:15,120
Captioned by
ai-media ai-media. TV
62444
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.