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A vast snow-covered
building in Alaska...
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00:00:08,280 --> 00:00:12,400
A lot of this damage that you see
around here, it obviously came from
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00:00:12,440 --> 00:00:15,080
the weather but something else
happened, it feels like something
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00:00:15,120 --> 00:00:17,200
more powerful hit this place.
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00:00:21,040 --> 00:00:25,640
..The rusting carcass
of a cold war relic...
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00:00:25,680 --> 00:00:29,200
The strangest thing about it all
is that it somehow feels scarred,
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like the building,
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00:00:31,040 --> 00:00:34,440
the decaying trains have
suffered through the history.
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It's like a dark secret that's
been locked away for decades.
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..A powerful symbol of a
country's renewal and rebirth...
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00:00:46,000 --> 00:00:48,000
The curious thing is that
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00:00:48,040 --> 00:00:54,640
on one hand it's ultra-modern,
these things are really futuristic
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00:00:54,680 --> 00:00:58,440
but it's also kind of dated and
retro in a strange kind of way.
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..And a long, winding
reminder of the horrors of war.
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00:01:05,360 --> 00:01:10,000
The first time I came into these
woods I had a strange feeling.
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It felt quite haunted
and it was spooky.
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Some are engineering
marvels now abandoned.
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Others are ruins
shrouded in mystery.
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But within each of these
crumbling structures
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are the echoes of history.
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While some are associated
with dark times, they all remind us
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of human ingenuity
and endeavour.
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Each haunted shell is now ready
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to be unmasked to
tell its own unique story.
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00:02:01,640 --> 00:02:05,600
In the small town of whittier,
in the icy wilderness of
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southern Alaska, stands
a huge concrete building.
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It's this epic scene,
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you reach it by crossing these
freezing cold waters and then
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suddenly there's this small
town at the base of a mountain.
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In this harsh landscape,
one ruined superstructure
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overshadows everything.
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The first thing that strikes
you about this place is the sheer
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scale of the building.
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You're talking about a space
that has the same interior area
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as 5 football fields.
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Behind shattered windows
and ice-covered staircases,
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the building hides
hundreds of derelict rooms.
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From the outside, it's not
obvious what this place is.
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And when you get inside the mystery
remains, there's so much in there.
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00:03:02,160 --> 00:03:05,800
This is essentially
a tiny fishing village
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00:03:05,840 --> 00:03:09,640
and it's dominated by
one gigantic building.
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Why would a town this small
need a building this enormous?
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Miraculously it's still standing,
but this vast construction has been
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ravaged by the elements.
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It snows 22 feet a year here,
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that's 1000 times
the national average.
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00:03:31,720 --> 00:03:35,600
Nature's spent years
hammering away at this place.
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Cold, harsh winds
beating every inch of it.
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00:03:40,080 --> 00:03:43,720
But this isn't a weak building
and it feels like something far
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00:03:43,760 --> 00:03:48,280
more powerful than just
weather has struck this place.
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This building found itself
at the centre of one of the
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20th century's
greatest conflicts.
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It played a part in averting nuclear
war and also came face to face with
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one of nature's gravest dangers.
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00:04:06,040 --> 00:04:09,400
It might look like it's in
the middle of nowhere
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but at one point in the 20th
century, Alaska became a hot
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bed of military activity.
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00:04:18,200 --> 00:04:21,680
Prior to 1940
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there is a very small
population in whittier.
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00:04:25,600 --> 00:04:27,880
And then world war ii comes.
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Alaska is vulnerable,
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it is seen as a
possible place that
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might be attacked by the likely
enemy, which is the Japanese.
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00:04:38,680 --> 00:04:42,280
The American military began to
increase its presence in Alaska.
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And when the second
world war ended,
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this remote northern territory
gained a new strategic importance.
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00:04:51,200 --> 00:04:56,280
At the time, Alaska had been
part of the us for less than a century.
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In fact, Alaska used
to be Russian territory.
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It wasn't bought
by the us until 1867.
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It's this historic link that
offers a clue to the purpose
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00:05:08,240 --> 00:05:10,480
of the building.
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00:05:10,520 --> 00:05:13,800
Situated at the northern
most edge of the pacific,
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Alaska occupies the area
between North America and Russia.
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00:05:20,200 --> 00:05:24,040
We tend to think of these two
countries as being miles apart,
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on different sides of the
globe from each other.
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But from a different perspective
you can see they are practically
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neighbours.
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And as tensions between
the super powers during
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the cold war increased, the threat,
however small, of a Russian attack
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on Alaska, focused American
attention on this remote region.
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00:05:45,440 --> 00:05:48,960
But what if it became
a Soviet territory?
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Suddenly it would look very
different and would be a very
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dangerous prospect for the us.
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In a worst case
scenario, the ussr
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gains control of Alaska, it
got a foothold for launching
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00:06:01,200 --> 00:06:06,160
troops, launching missiles,
launching planes, you don't want
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the Soviet union with territory
just off your northern border.
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Such a situation might seem a
little unlikely now, but during the tense
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00:06:17,600 --> 00:06:21,640
years after the end of world
war ii, it was anything but.
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00:06:23,760 --> 00:06:28,720
In 1949, the Soviets shocked
the world by exploding their
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very first atomic bomb.
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And the following year,
backed the invasion of
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South Korea by North Korea,
sparking a war on the peninsula.
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00:06:40,080 --> 00:06:44,040
Elsewhere revolutionaries
declared victory in China,
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it all added to fears in the usa
that communism was spreading.
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In this climate of fear defence
became a number one priority.
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In 1950 they finally decided
to act by building this.
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The Buckner building, a
cold war us military facility.
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It would play a crucial role in
america's battle with the Soviets.
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Brenda tolman, a long time
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whittier resident, has lived in
its shadow for nearly 40 years.
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Built in the early '50s
and surplussed out in '58,
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the building has had no
maintenance in almost 70 years
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and still stands as strong,
probably, as when it was built.
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The construction of the
site at whittier coincided with
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a massive expansion
of the us army.
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This one building was designed to
accommodate an entire battalion of
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1000 troops.
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What we're looking at here
is what was once the largest
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building in Alaska.
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It is a vast complex.
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It's got 6 visible floors and then
another basement level hidden away
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underneath.
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00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:08,160
You'll have your troops, you'll
have your medical support,
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00:08:08,200 --> 00:08:11,440
people for security,
your military police.
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It had accommodation, it had a
canteen, it had a movie theatre,
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it had a rifle range, it
even had a bowling alley.
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00:08:20,640 --> 00:08:25,200
Normally, in a us army post,
these things are scattered over
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a large area.
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Here you have them all
concentrated in one place.
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Covering 275,000 square feet,
this enormous concrete bunker
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was a city under a single roof.
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So that if it came to it,
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none of the 1,000 troops
would ever have to leave.
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Because in this place you get
such a massive snow fall during
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the year, it made perfect sense
to put everything into one building.
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00:09:03,160 --> 00:09:06,360
It was vital that the Buckner
building was able to withstand
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the very worst of
the Alaskan weather.
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00:09:10,040 --> 00:09:12,880
The reason whittier
was built was because
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it's an ice-free,
deep-water port.
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It was built to bring supplies
to interior Alaska by rail.
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95% of everything consumed
in Alaska is brought in,
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47% off that still comes
through the port of whittier.
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00:09:28,320 --> 00:09:32,480
This was the us military's
primary route into Alaska,
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troops, weapons, equipment
all had to come through here.
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It needed to be up and running
365 days a year, otherwise the whole
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operation would be at risk.
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The Buckner building allowed
the us to maintain control of,
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and access to, Alaska.
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And as the threat of an aerial
attack by the Soviets increased,
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it became even more
important to American strategy.
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00:10:00,800 --> 00:10:04,720
In the cold war equation,
Alaska is very important.
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Because one of the best routes
to attack the United States with
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nuclear weapons
is over the north.
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A series of radar stations
were built to warn the us
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about potentially nuclear armed
aircraft approaching its shores.
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And many of them
were based in Alaska.
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Without Alaska any attack coming
from that direction wouldn't be
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00:10:31,080 --> 00:10:35,320
picked up until it was too late,
leaving very little time to react
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00:10:35,360 --> 00:10:38,280
and possibly a deadly
scenario to follow.
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00:10:40,440 --> 00:10:44,200
But the radar defences could
only be maintained if supplies could
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reach them via whittier
and the Buckner building.
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This was incredibly
well-built, thick concrete walls,
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solid structural foundations,
it was designed to survive
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whatever the Soviets or
nature could throw at it.
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00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:09,240
By the end of the 1950s,
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weapon technology had
advanced dramatically.
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00:11:13,800 --> 00:11:15,520
The invention of
intercontinental
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ballistic missiles meant that the
Soviets were now able to launch
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a nuclear attack on the us
from thousands of miles away.
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00:11:24,200 --> 00:11:28,120
So why go through the extraordinary
expense and trouble of maintaining
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this massive military facility
on the edge of nowhere?
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In 1960, the military left whittier
and the city under one roof
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was left empty.
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00:11:41,360 --> 00:11:46,800
In the end it wasn't the Soviets
that gave Buckner its greatest test.
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It was a natural
disaster in 1964.
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Whittier is hit by the largest
earthquake in us history,
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9.2 on the Richter scale,
Tsunami over 40 feet,
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kills 139 people, 13
of them in whittier.
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But despite this devastation,
the building survives,
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the ground moved for 3 minutes
and the building stayed up.
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They built this thing right.
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The town of whittier
took an absolute
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beating from this earthquake
but amongst all the destruction,
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this building remained
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standing tall, surviving whatever
mother nature could throw at it.
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Today, the Buckner
building lies derelict.
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This mammoth feat of
engineering is still standing.
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A monument to america's
determination to defend itself
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even in the harshest
of conditions.
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In the south-west of
Spain, in the city of Seville,
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is a landscape of surprising
and bewildering structures.
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There are a number of odd,
whimsical elements, there's a large
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rocket, something that
looks like a giant satellite dish.
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00:13:24,040 --> 00:13:29,400
You have a platform for a train,
you have a globe, you have a bridge
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00:13:29,440 --> 00:13:31,400
that doesn't go anywhere.
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00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:34,920
It's almost as if some child
was imagining the super
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00:13:34,960 --> 00:13:37,640
fantastic city of the future,
started building it and then
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got bored and went out to
play and left his toys on the floor.
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But this is no ordinary
abandoned site.
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00:13:46,360 --> 00:13:50,480
In fact, much of it is
still a hive of activity.
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On one side we've got these
crazy pockets of abandoned space,
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00:13:54,880 --> 00:13:58,080
but on the other side we're in
a modern, bustling city full of
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00:13:58,120 --> 00:14:02,120
people working and
going about their business.
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00:14:02,160 --> 00:14:04,016
If there is a message to all
this architecture it's kind of
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00:14:04,040 --> 00:14:06,880
hard to figure out what it is and
why were some parts preserved
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00:14:06,920 --> 00:14:09,400
and other parts left to decay?
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00:14:15,280 --> 00:14:21,320
Completed in 1992, the remains
of this place today are a strange
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mixture of the new
and the derelict.
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00:14:24,360 --> 00:14:28,680
But when it was originally
built, this was a symbol of hope
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00:14:28,720 --> 00:14:32,000
and progress for
the city of Seville.
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00:14:32,040 --> 00:14:37,200
In the 1970s, Spain went through
an amazing transformation and they
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00:14:37,240 --> 00:14:43,320
managed to convert from a fascist
dictatorship to a free Democratic
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00:14:43,360 --> 00:14:47,600
society without violence, without
a revolution. This was a first.
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00:14:47,640 --> 00:14:50,120
Here was the new Spain.
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00:14:50,160 --> 00:14:53,440
And this was supposed to be
a bold statement that reflected
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00:14:53,480 --> 00:14:57,040
it's positive plans
for the future.
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00:14:57,080 --> 00:15:00,480
Spain began to boom, and all
through the '80s, this country that
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00:15:00,520 --> 00:15:04,440
had been an economic and
cultural backwater for a few decades,
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00:15:04,480 --> 00:15:07,000
was all of a sudden entering
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00:15:07,040 --> 00:15:10,240
the elite nations of
Europe and the world.
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00:15:12,760 --> 00:15:18,000
By the early 1990s, Spain's dramatic
renewal was capturing the attention
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00:15:18,040 --> 00:15:20,640
of the world.
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00:15:20,680 --> 00:15:25,440
And it was this place that
seemed to be leading the way.
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00:15:25,480 --> 00:15:31,440
1992 for Spain is a new start,
suddenly we're into the modern
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00:15:31,480 --> 00:15:33,360
age, we're moving forward
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00:15:33,400 --> 00:15:36,800
and Spain is about to announce
its arrival on the world stage.
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00:15:39,160 --> 00:15:44,040
This is the site of the 1992
world expo, or world's fair.
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00:15:46,840 --> 00:15:51,480
To host an expo is about
dreaming big, it's about looking
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00:15:51,520 --> 00:15:55,240
forward to the future and showing
the world what your country can do.
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00:15:55,280 --> 00:15:58,400
They get remembered,
they are huge.
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00:15:58,440 --> 00:16:00,200
Not a one day event,
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00:16:00,240 --> 00:16:04,880
it's not a week event, it's 6
months and with millions of visitors.
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00:16:04,920 --> 00:16:08,720
And the legacy they
leave lasts for years.
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00:16:10,280 --> 00:16:12,480
Spain really had
a lot to be proud of
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00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:15,600
and they wanted to show it off
to the world, they wanted to tell
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00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:19,880
the other elite nations "we've
joined your club, we've arrived."
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00:16:21,440 --> 00:16:25,360
In truth, the curious collection of
structures now left at the former
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00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:31,120
expo '92 site don't really tell
us what that event was all about.
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00:16:31,160 --> 00:16:35,080
Joe Cooper, the former British
commercial consul in Seville,
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00:16:35,120 --> 00:16:37,280
explains more.
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00:16:37,320 --> 00:16:39,280
These structures
here in front of us
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00:16:39,320 --> 00:16:41,720
are really symbolic of
what the expo's all about.
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00:16:41,760 --> 00:16:46,400
The main theme of the expo is
about celebrating the 500th anniversary
235
00:16:46,440 --> 00:16:50,080
of the discovery of the new
world by Spain, but also it was
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00:16:50,120 --> 00:16:53,960
about projecting, if you like, an
image of Spain as a modern country,
237
00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:56,880
looking forward, being involved
in discovery in the future as well.
238
00:16:59,000 --> 00:17:03,920
In that context all these
weird and wonderful things
239
00:17:03,960 --> 00:17:05,680
start to make a bit more sense.
240
00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:11,360
The entire place seems to
be a celebration of that ideal.
241
00:17:11,400 --> 00:17:14,960
More than 100 nations came
here to build pavilions and be part of
242
00:17:15,000 --> 00:17:16,720
the event.
243
00:17:16,760 --> 00:17:20,000
But keeping to the tight schedule
of the largest expo ever staged was
244
00:17:20,040 --> 00:17:25,800
a monumental challenge and as
time slipped away, the pressures grew.
245
00:17:29,760 --> 00:17:33,760
One can say that Spain was
overly ambitious with the expo.
246
00:17:34,280 --> 00:17:39,320
Project-managing infrastructure
on this scale is a nightmare.
247
00:17:39,360 --> 00:17:42,520
Especially with that deadline, an
opening ceremony cannot be moved.
248
00:17:43,920 --> 00:17:47,000
They were trying to do too
much in a short period of time
249
00:17:47,040 --> 00:17:49,080
and it could lead to problems.
250
00:17:50,640 --> 00:17:52,920
The hosts themselves
were building
251
00:17:52,960 --> 00:17:56,640
a number of large
themed attractions like this.
252
00:17:56,680 --> 00:17:58,640
The future pavilion.
253
00:17:58,680 --> 00:18:03,520
But in the rush to get it all
finished in time, disaster struck.
254
00:18:03,560 --> 00:18:07,560
The discovery pavilion
unfortunately caught fire
255
00:18:07,600 --> 00:18:09,480
just before the expo started,
256
00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:11,536
sort of doing lots of things
together as it were, painting
257
00:18:11,560 --> 00:18:16,240
and welding at the same time,
pots of paint on the floor and welders
258
00:18:16,280 --> 00:18:20,880
up above on the ceiling, spark
fell down and it all caught fire.
259
00:18:20,920 --> 00:18:26,480
Thick clouds of black smoke
were soon enveloping the pavilion.
260
00:18:26,520 --> 00:18:30,400
The disastrous fire looked
set to put an end to the Spanish
261
00:18:30,440 --> 00:18:31,920
expo dream.
262
00:18:36,040 --> 00:18:41,000
Incredibly, it turned out
to be just a small stumble.
263
00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:44,760
Despite the problems, the expo
was a huge success, they had
264
00:18:44,800 --> 00:18:47,880
a record number of visitors
from all over the world.
265
00:18:47,920 --> 00:18:50,040
If Spain wanted to show
off to the world that they'd
266
00:18:50,080 --> 00:18:52,080
arrived, they really succeeded.
267
00:18:53,760 --> 00:18:58,560
Over 240,000 people
turned up every single day
268
00:18:58,600 --> 00:19:02,880
to look at these buildings, to
wander through these structures.
269
00:19:02,920 --> 00:19:04,960
What an incredible success.
270
00:19:06,720 --> 00:19:11,080
More than 41 million
visitors came to the expo.
271
00:19:11,120 --> 00:19:14,480
Many of them winding their
way along this stretch here
272
00:19:14,520 --> 00:19:16,840
which used to be
a flowing canal.
273
00:19:18,560 --> 00:19:22,720
You could either come here by
boat or you could come by cable car
274
00:19:22,760 --> 00:19:25,560
or you could just simply walk
across one of the Bridges that
275
00:19:25,600 --> 00:19:28,320
linked the city to the site.
276
00:19:28,360 --> 00:19:29,416
People would
visit the pavilions,
277
00:19:29,440 --> 00:19:31,360
they had a good look
round, then they came
278
00:19:31,400 --> 00:19:33,496
out and went on to the next
one and so on and so forth.
279
00:19:33,520 --> 00:19:37,120
So the expo, which was
supposed to symbolise
280
00:19:37,160 --> 00:19:42,880
Spain's new role in the world, had
been a triumph beyond her dreams.
281
00:19:42,920 --> 00:19:47,320
But what happened to the
site after the expo finished?
282
00:19:47,360 --> 00:19:51,040
At the end of an expo,
everyone disappears,
283
00:19:51,080 --> 00:19:53,280
the site has done its job
284
00:19:53,320 --> 00:19:58,640
and what you're left is this crazy
aftermath of an engineering party.
285
00:19:58,680 --> 00:20:04,080
And how different countries
choose to move on is up to them.
286
00:20:04,120 --> 00:20:08,600
Often what's left behind after
events such as expo resembles an
287
00:20:08,640 --> 00:20:13,320
industrial wasteland but not here,
as Luis Perez, innovation manager of
288
00:20:13,360 --> 00:20:15,040
the site explains.
289
00:20:28,760 --> 00:20:31,600
Over the years, many
buildings have been replaced
290
00:20:31,640 --> 00:20:34,560
while others have been
overhauled and renovated.
291
00:20:54,880 --> 00:20:57,000
Today, just a few solitary
292
00:20:57,040 --> 00:21:00,280
structures remain
in fenced-off areas.
293
00:21:00,320 --> 00:21:04,120
And the most recognisable
have been saved for last.
294
00:21:06,480 --> 00:21:08,240
People really appreciate those
295
00:21:08,280 --> 00:21:10,640
landmarks today, they don't
need to be re-used for any new
296
00:21:10,680 --> 00:21:14,120
purpose, they mean
lots to a lot of people
297
00:21:14,160 --> 00:21:15,680
standing just the way they are.
298
00:21:17,240 --> 00:21:19,320
The rocket and
the satellite dish,
299
00:21:19,360 --> 00:21:21,120
they've become quite iconic
300
00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:23,440
and gradually they're
going to get absorbed.
301
00:21:23,480 --> 00:21:28,240
And once again, this area will be
redeveloped and thronged and busy
302
00:21:28,280 --> 00:21:30,600
with people with new purpose.
303
00:21:36,760 --> 00:21:38,720
Cutting across the
quiet countryside
304
00:21:38,760 --> 00:21:43,880
near Germany's western border
is a strange line of concrete spikes.
305
00:21:51,680 --> 00:21:55,880
You start passing the first
bits of concrete and you
306
00:21:55,920 --> 00:22:00,800
think that maybe you're going to
go 3m or 4m and you'll be passed it
307
00:22:02,400 --> 00:22:05,600
and there's more and
there's more and there's more.
308
00:22:08,280 --> 00:22:11,760
You could be walking through
a field or through the woods
309
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:13,800
and here and there catch site of
310
00:22:13,840 --> 00:22:18,480
remnants from a different
era, it's not really clear what it is.
311
00:22:18,520 --> 00:22:23,560
These bizarre relics remind
us of this area's dark past.
312
00:22:25,680 --> 00:22:27,440
When I came here the first time
313
00:22:27,480 --> 00:22:33,040
I had a strange feeling, it was a
spooky feeling like haunted woods.
314
00:22:34,440 --> 00:22:36,920
It was a feeling that
made you shiver.
315
00:22:39,280 --> 00:22:43,760
The strange rows of concrete
teeth here aren't alone.
316
00:22:43,800 --> 00:22:47,520
Across this rural landscape
are dozens of other structures, all
317
00:22:47,560 --> 00:22:51,520
of which bare the marks
of a violent struggle.
318
00:22:53,400 --> 00:22:58,760
There are these concrete structures
hidden throughout the woods,
319
00:22:58,800 --> 00:23:03,240
just coming out from under the
moss and under the tree branches.
320
00:23:03,280 --> 00:23:06,160
You might see these structures
and really wonder what they are,
321
00:23:06,200 --> 00:23:09,120
what purpose do they serve.
322
00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,680
We're used to seeing concrete
that's degraded, that's crumbled.
323
00:23:12,720 --> 00:23:14,696
But this concrete has been
hit with something very heavy
324
00:23:14,720 --> 00:23:19,560
over and over again, they
look like they've been smashed.
325
00:23:21,200 --> 00:23:25,920
So what connects these forgotten
ruins and what left them in this
326
00:23:25,960 --> 00:23:28,360
shattered state?
327
00:23:33,840 --> 00:23:37,360
Construction of these concrete
spikes, known as dragon's teeth,
328
00:23:37,400 --> 00:23:42,640
began in the years leading
up to the second world war,
329
00:23:42,680 --> 00:23:46,400
when Adolph Hitler was looking to
shore up Germany's defences along
330
00:23:46,440 --> 00:23:49,000
its western border.
331
00:23:49,040 --> 00:23:52,480
Local expert, Michel
baert, explains.
332
00:23:54,360 --> 00:23:57,600
Dragon's teeth are
anti-tank defences.
333
00:23:57,640 --> 00:24:02,640
And these anti-tank defences
are built in reinforced concrete.
334
00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:09,160
Each one of these blocks is
linked to the one on it's left, on it's
335
00:24:09,200 --> 00:24:14,920
right and behind it and in front
of it, so you can't just pull one out.
336
00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:19,680
The only way to destroy
a way through is to use
337
00:24:19,720 --> 00:24:26,240
dynamite to explode them,
and even that is quite difficult.
338
00:24:26,280 --> 00:24:31,000
The idea was to stop an
enemy tank invasion in its tracks.
339
00:24:31,040 --> 00:24:34,600
The plan was simple
but very effective.
340
00:24:36,160 --> 00:24:40,640
You have different sizes, so as
the tanks, when they advance,
341
00:24:40,680 --> 00:24:42,200
would go upwards
342
00:24:42,240 --> 00:24:47,240
and expose their belly to anti-tank
guns that are further behind.
343
00:24:49,040 --> 00:24:51,760
Running north to
south across almost
344
00:24:51,800 --> 00:24:56,640
400 miles of German countryside,
Hitler's defensive network was
345
00:24:56,680 --> 00:25:00,880
known as the west
wall or the siegfried line.
346
00:25:03,080 --> 00:25:06,640
The siegfried line is
actually not a continuous
347
00:25:06,680 --> 00:25:08,840
line or a continuous defence.
348
00:25:08,880 --> 00:25:13,360
Certain areas are fairly heavily
defended with clusters of bunkers
349
00:25:13,400 --> 00:25:16,760
and anti-tank
defences, some areas
350
00:25:16,800 --> 00:25:20,240
are much less defended
due to the hilly terrain.
351
00:25:22,080 --> 00:25:25,760
Stretching for hundreds of miles
and designed to be strongest
352
00:25:25,800 --> 00:25:30,320
where an attack was most likely,
dragon's teeth were placed in
353
00:25:30,360 --> 00:25:32,800
areas considered
to be vulnerable.
354
00:25:32,840 --> 00:25:36,000
Some places had
multiple rows of them.
355
00:25:36,040 --> 00:25:39,120
But to make the
siegfried line really work,
356
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:42,560
dragon's teeth had to be part of
a fully integrated defence system.
357
00:25:44,400 --> 00:25:48,120
The siegfried line is more
than just dragon's teeth.
358
00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:54,000
These dragon's teeth
have no use if behind it
359
00:25:54,040 --> 00:25:57,200
you don't have the pillboxes
and bunkers with anti-tank guns.
360
00:25:59,040 --> 00:26:02,600
So behind this there's
a row of 18,000 bunkers.
361
00:26:05,840 --> 00:26:10,360
Really it's more like a zone, in
many cases going miles deep
362
00:26:10,400 --> 00:26:15,040
into Germany, of a combination
of different kinds of defences.
363
00:26:17,360 --> 00:26:20,480
In 1938, Hitler showed off
364
00:26:20,520 --> 00:26:25,120
the strength of the siegfried line
in a specially commissioned film.
365
00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:28,600
But not all was as it seemed.
366
00:26:28,640 --> 00:26:30,696
Hitler gave the impression
that the siegfried line was
367
00:26:30,720 --> 00:26:35,680
like the maginot line with
massive underground forts.
368
00:26:35,720 --> 00:26:42,240
In reality, this is a very
relatively thin defence line.
369
00:26:42,280 --> 00:26:47,000
This is not an
impregnable defence line.
370
00:26:47,040 --> 00:26:50,880
It had great propaganda
value at home, as Hitler was
371
00:26:50,920 --> 00:26:54,600
getting his country ready for
war it helped him reinforce the idea
372
00:26:54,640 --> 00:26:59,720
that he was protecting his people
from these hostile neighbours.
373
00:26:59,760 --> 00:27:03,880
At the beginning of the war,
defence was probably the last
374
00:27:03,920 --> 00:27:05,680
thing on German minds.
375
00:27:05,720 --> 00:27:10,200
Its army stormed through Poland
the low countries and France.
376
00:27:10,240 --> 00:27:15,120
It seemed that nothing could
stop them and victory was assured.
377
00:27:15,160 --> 00:27:20,280
So guns and equipment were stripped
out from the siegfried line and sent
378
00:27:20,320 --> 00:27:22,800
to the front.
379
00:27:22,840 --> 00:27:27,840
The one thing I don't think
Hitler did plan on was the situation
380
00:27:27,880 --> 00:27:30,640
in which the line finally did
become quite useful to the Germans.
381
00:27:32,600 --> 00:27:35,000
After the d day
invasion of normandy,
382
00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:38,960
the allies were slowly advancing
towards the German borders.
383
00:27:39,000 --> 00:27:43,920
The siegfried line then became
an important part of their defences.
384
00:27:43,960 --> 00:27:47,680
In 1944, the Germans had
to quickly scramble to defend
385
00:27:47,720 --> 00:27:51,440
the now badly equipped line.
386
00:27:51,480 --> 00:27:54,240
They began to deploy troops,
they began to dig new trenches
387
00:27:54,280 --> 00:27:58,600
and they really got the line
fully occupied and staffed up
388
00:27:58,640 --> 00:28:02,000
only a few days before
the allied forces reached it.
389
00:28:02,040 --> 00:28:05,400
Some parts of the
line were easily broken
390
00:28:05,440 --> 00:28:07,720
but early successes
in areas such as
391
00:28:07,760 --> 00:28:13,240
the hurtgen forest near aachen soon
turned into slow and costly battles.
392
00:28:15,880 --> 00:28:18,520
The fighting in the hurtgenwald
is immensely difficult.
393
00:28:20,320 --> 00:28:24,760
The Germans are defending
area that is densely wooded.
394
00:28:26,840 --> 00:28:31,000
And that not only means that
it's hard to see other people,
395
00:28:31,040 --> 00:28:36,080
it's hard to see the enemy, it
also means it's hard to use artillery.
396
00:28:37,680 --> 00:28:43,240
Because aachen was symbolically
very important, the Germans placed
397
00:28:43,280 --> 00:28:49,400
a priority on its defence and,
in fact, a few first rate troops
398
00:28:49,440 --> 00:28:53,920
managed in that very horrible
terrain, in very, very bad weather,
399
00:28:53,960 --> 00:29:00,040
to slow down, inflict a great
many casualties the American army.
400
00:29:00,080 --> 00:29:02,440
On September 19th,
401
00:29:02,480 --> 00:29:07,960
the us army began to make ground
through the suffocating woodland,
402
00:29:08,000 --> 00:29:12,360
the siegfried line was
finally being put to the test.
403
00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:18,000
A defensive zone
like the siegfried line,
404
00:29:18,040 --> 00:29:19,960
it doesn't have to
be impenetrable.
405
00:29:20,000 --> 00:29:23,760
In fact in some places they
made it intentionally weak.
406
00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:27,960
So if the allied forces were to
penetrate through it and move
407
00:29:28,000 --> 00:29:31,680
a few miles into German territory,
then they might get bogged down in
408
00:29:31,720 --> 00:29:37,440
a deeper area where there are
more hidden bunkers, more tank traps.
409
00:29:37,480 --> 00:29:40,480
The terrain in
the hurtgen forest
410
00:29:40,520 --> 00:29:46,000
and the approach to aachen
is very tough terrain, it's very
411
00:29:46,040 --> 00:29:50,880
hilly, there are many ravines,
it's easy to channelise the attacker.
412
00:29:53,480 --> 00:29:58,880
A first row of dragon's teeth was
sometimes backed up by a second row,
413
00:29:58,920 --> 00:30:03,000
giving two points at which
to stall and attack the enemy.
414
00:30:03,040 --> 00:30:08,360
Beyond these, often hidden in thick
woodland, were pillboxes waiting for
415
00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:10,680
an advancing infantry.
416
00:30:10,720 --> 00:30:14,200
The results could
be devastating.
417
00:30:14,240 --> 00:30:18,920
Communication was the
key to making it all work.
418
00:30:21,080 --> 00:30:23,120
We are standing here in front of
419
00:30:23,160 --> 00:30:27,680
one of the 18,000 bunkers
that form the siegfried line.
420
00:30:29,600 --> 00:30:36,120
This one in particular is a
command and communication bunker,
421
00:30:36,160 --> 00:30:40,520
so it's keeping the other bunkers
advised of the enemy movements.
422
00:30:44,000 --> 00:30:48,360
The us army was about to engage
in one of the deadliest battles
423
00:30:48,400 --> 00:30:49,880
in its history.
424
00:30:53,520 --> 00:30:57,800
The American army fights its
way through the hurtgen forest by
425
00:30:57,840 --> 00:31:01,040
clawing their way through those
woods and dying in the process.
426
00:31:03,520 --> 00:31:08,000
Imagine climbing these
hills, through the woods,
427
00:31:08,040 --> 00:31:11,440
and often in very bad weather,
it was a very wet Autumn.
428
00:31:11,480 --> 00:31:15,040
They would be climbing
in the mist, and suddenly
429
00:31:15,080 --> 00:31:17,760
in front of them there's a
pillbox that starts shooting.
430
00:31:17,800 --> 00:31:22,680
For 3 months there was a
bloody stalemate and bitter fighting,
431
00:31:22,720 --> 00:31:25,640
during which tens
of thousands died.
432
00:31:25,680 --> 00:31:30,440
Finally, the Germans mounted
a counter-attack to the south,
433
00:31:30,480 --> 00:31:34,360
remembered by history
as the battle of the bulge.
434
00:31:34,400 --> 00:31:39,800
The aim was to break through to
antwerp and to cut British forces
435
00:31:39,840 --> 00:31:44,320
off from the American army, and
most importantly, from its supplies.
436
00:31:44,360 --> 00:31:49,480
The plan was then to overwhelm
the isolated British army.
437
00:31:49,520 --> 00:31:53,440
Launched at dawn on December
the 16th 1944, the results
438
00:31:53,480 --> 00:31:58,120
were at first spectacular,
creating confusion and panic
439
00:31:58,160 --> 00:32:00,360
among the allied armies.
440
00:32:00,400 --> 00:32:04,160
It seemed for a brief time that
the great German counteroffensive
441
00:32:04,200 --> 00:32:06,800
was all going as planned.
442
00:32:08,720 --> 00:32:14,000
The attack eventually stalled
for the simplest of reasons.
443
00:32:14,040 --> 00:32:18,960
The petrol for the
tanks began to run out.
444
00:32:19,000 --> 00:32:23,600
After an allied counter-offensive
that drove the Germans back,
445
00:32:23,640 --> 00:32:27,560
the last chance to turn the
tide of the war had gone.
446
00:32:27,600 --> 00:32:30,200
120,000 German soldiers
447
00:32:30,240 --> 00:32:33,760
became casualties during
the battle of the bulge.
448
00:32:33,800 --> 00:32:39,160
And vast quantities of
irreplaceable war materials were lost.
449
00:32:39,200 --> 00:32:43,440
After that great German defeat,
the allies were able to break
450
00:32:43,480 --> 00:32:47,880
through the siegfried line and
head for the heart of the reich.
451
00:32:49,720 --> 00:32:52,480
By the time they broke through
in February of 1945, they had also
452
00:32:52,520 --> 00:32:58,400
decimated the strongest elements of
the German military, and that meant
453
00:32:58,440 --> 00:33:02,080
the path to Berlin was much easier
than it otherwise might have been.
454
00:33:07,320 --> 00:33:12,160
Today, much of the siegfried line
has been demolished or removed.
455
00:33:13,720 --> 00:33:18,320
But the sacrifices made to
break them will never be forgotten.
456
00:33:19,880 --> 00:33:22,640
To walk the fields where
this fighting happened, to
457
00:33:22,680 --> 00:33:26,160
see the extraordinary efforts that
went into building these defences,
458
00:33:26,200 --> 00:33:32,600
to see a hint of just how
grandiose Hitler's plans were,
459
00:33:32,640 --> 00:33:36,040
it's an important lesson, it's
an important part of our history.
460
00:33:36,080 --> 00:33:41,520
These bunkers, when we come
across them, it reminds us of those days.
461
00:33:41,560 --> 00:33:45,800
It's important, I think, to remember
and to keep the memory alive.
462
00:33:53,480 --> 00:33:57,680
In central Europe, in Hungary's
capital city of Budapest,
463
00:33:57,720 --> 00:34:01,200
is the carcass of
an industrial relic.
464
00:34:07,520 --> 00:34:09,920
These buildings are
on the brink of collapse.
465
00:34:09,960 --> 00:34:13,840
They look like even the slightest
knock or maybe a strong wind might
466
00:34:13,880 --> 00:34:16,800
bring the whole
lot crashing down.
467
00:34:16,840 --> 00:34:22,800
Pieces are falling off the walls,
the skylights are without their
468
00:34:22,840 --> 00:34:28,440
glass, it is as though
thousands of years have passed.
469
00:34:30,080 --> 00:34:34,840
But somehow they remain standing
and these warehouses are now vaults
470
00:34:34,880 --> 00:34:37,480
crammed full of memories.
471
00:34:37,520 --> 00:34:43,040
What you're seeing here is almost
a century of transportation history.
472
00:34:43,080 --> 00:34:48,240
You see Hungary's economy
and government all wrapped up
473
00:34:48,280 --> 00:34:50,880
in this one building.
474
00:34:50,920 --> 00:34:53,640
These buildings are
filled with locomotives,
475
00:34:53,680 --> 00:34:57,400
carriages and all kinds of
equipment from a past world.
476
00:34:57,440 --> 00:35:00,840
It looks like someone locked it
all up and threw away the key.
477
00:35:00,880 --> 00:35:03,840
But now finally we can
get a glimpse inside.
478
00:35:08,920 --> 00:35:13,200
Stranded on overgrown
tracks are rail carriages that tell
479
00:35:13,240 --> 00:35:17,120
of a troubled period
in Hungary's history.
480
00:35:19,680 --> 00:35:26,480
In the latter stages of world war
ii, a more radical extreme regime
481
00:35:26,520 --> 00:35:31,440
comes to power and in 1943, '44,
482
00:35:31,480 --> 00:35:34,880
the Jewish community is quite
483
00:35:34,920 --> 00:35:39,280
brutally rounded up in Budapest
and placed on trains and sent to
484
00:35:39,320 --> 00:35:43,600
concentration camps,
where the vast majority
485
00:35:43,640 --> 00:35:46,120
of Hungary's
Jews will be killed.
486
00:35:48,120 --> 00:35:52,280
More than half a million Hungarian
Jews were massacred during the war.
487
00:35:52,320 --> 00:35:57,200
And these railways played a
part in the terrible slaughter.
488
00:36:02,520 --> 00:36:05,960
Some of those carriages left
standing in the yard are the same
489
00:36:06,000 --> 00:36:09,840
type used to transport the Jewish
population to concentration camps.
490
00:36:09,880 --> 00:36:12,440
Carrying them to their death.
491
00:36:12,480 --> 00:36:14,920
Perhaps even some of
them are the very same ones.
492
00:36:18,280 --> 00:36:24,560
After the war, this place felt the
terror of a new occupying force.
493
00:36:24,600 --> 00:36:27,080
The ruins here
serve as a reminder
494
00:36:27,120 --> 00:36:31,160
of the country's struggles
throughout the 20th century.
495
00:36:31,200 --> 00:36:35,520
They were once at the very centre
of the rail network, as sandor tibor,
496
00:36:35,560 --> 00:36:39,120
an engineer who
worked here, recalls.
497
00:36:44,080 --> 00:36:48,800
Translator: Here we are in front
of the istvantelek metal works.
498
00:36:48,840 --> 00:36:53,120
It was built in the 1920s
and practically all the steam
499
00:36:53,160 --> 00:36:57,320
engines of the Hungarian state
railways were repaired here.
500
00:36:59,600 --> 00:37:05,320
Eastern Europe was always an
area that was undeveloped in roads,
501
00:37:05,360 --> 00:37:09,320
and in the 19th century
when the railroad came,
502
00:37:09,360 --> 00:37:12,040
this opened up Eastern Europe.
503
00:37:12,080 --> 00:37:14,880
How does the economy work?
How do you transport goods?
504
00:37:14,920 --> 00:37:17,440
How do you transport
people? You do it by rail.
505
00:37:19,000 --> 00:37:21,560
At the heart of it all were
the Hungarian-designed
506
00:37:21,600 --> 00:37:24,600
mav locomotives.
507
00:37:26,160 --> 00:37:28,680
Since we are a
landlocked country,
508
00:37:28,720 --> 00:37:32,400
Hungarian state railways plays
a vital role in transporting goods.
509
00:37:32,440 --> 00:37:36,680
This was a high speed train,
it was a very fast locomotive.
510
00:37:36,720 --> 00:37:41,560
It could transport passenger
carriages at great speeds.
511
00:37:43,200 --> 00:37:47,400
Once a vital facility for
the state railway network,
512
00:37:47,440 --> 00:37:51,280
this place has more recently
become known by a different name.
513
00:37:54,680 --> 00:37:57,480
One train found here
reveals what happened to
514
00:37:57,520 --> 00:38:02,280
Hungary after the second world
war and it gives this place its name.
515
00:38:02,320 --> 00:38:05,160
The red star graveyard.
516
00:38:07,080 --> 00:38:09,000
The red star,
517
00:38:09,040 --> 00:38:14,600
which was the ubiquitous symbol of
the Soviet empire, was everywhere.
518
00:38:16,680 --> 00:38:21,600
This Mark of the new oppressive
ruling regime pointed the way to
519
00:38:21,640 --> 00:38:23,600
more dark days ahead.
520
00:38:28,240 --> 00:38:30,720
At the end of the second
world war Russia is economically
521
00:38:30,760 --> 00:38:32,360
very unhealthy.
522
00:38:32,400 --> 00:38:34,360
And they rip out
523
00:38:34,400 --> 00:38:37,200
as much industrial capability
in Eastern Europe as they can.
524
00:38:39,200 --> 00:38:44,400
The Hungarian locomotives
and rolling stock are stripped out
525
00:38:44,440 --> 00:38:47,240
and shipped back to
Russia to be reused.
526
00:38:48,960 --> 00:38:53,280
For a country like Hungary
which was so reliant on its railways,
527
00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,600
this was another
devastating blow.
528
00:38:56,640 --> 00:39:01,360
But history shows that oppression
often sews the seeds of discontent,
529
00:39:01,400 --> 00:39:03,720
and finally, rebellion.
530
00:39:03,760 --> 00:39:09,960
Engineer Josef deak recalls hearing
about those tough post-war years.
531
00:39:11,880 --> 00:39:15,880
There was a dire need for
the renewal and restoration of
532
00:39:15,920 --> 00:39:18,160
the railways because the
country would have been
533
00:39:18,200 --> 00:39:19,400
paralysed without it.
534
00:39:19,440 --> 00:39:25,440
The railway was the
pulsing vein of the country.
535
00:39:27,520 --> 00:39:30,920
Hungary had lost a quarter
of its industrial base during
536
00:39:30,960 --> 00:39:32,680
the second world war.
537
00:39:33,280 --> 00:39:36,320
And in the immediate post-war
period, the country was crippled
538
00:39:36,360 --> 00:39:38,040
by inflation.
539
00:39:39,880 --> 00:39:43,320
Despite radical economic
reconstruction and land reforms,
540
00:39:43,360 --> 00:39:47,160
its poorest people barely had
enough food to keep themselves alive.
541
00:39:49,280 --> 00:39:53,240
One has to understand
that the eastern bloc end of
542
00:39:53,280 --> 00:39:57,480
the Soviet union was
essentially a colonial system.
543
00:39:57,520 --> 00:40:01,800
The Soviets expect
their slave states
544
00:40:01,840 --> 00:40:06,720
to rebuild their economies
and get functioning very quickly.
545
00:40:06,760 --> 00:40:11,040
If you were not achieving your
production norms, you could be
546
00:40:11,080 --> 00:40:14,000
taken out back and shot and
your deputy would be put in charge.
547
00:40:18,600 --> 00:40:21,680
This place played a huge part
548
00:40:21,720 --> 00:40:24,960
in the efforts to satisfy the
ruthless Soviet demands.
549
00:40:29,600 --> 00:40:32,280
Translator: There
were different regions.
550
00:40:32,320 --> 00:40:37,120
The reason why Budapest is
important is because at the time,
551
00:40:37,160 --> 00:40:39,920
there wasn't a similar
repair plant in the region.
552
00:40:39,960 --> 00:40:44,080
Others came later but this was
the only place for the restoration
553
00:40:44,120 --> 00:40:47,600
of steam engines that had both
the capacity and the capability
554
00:40:47,640 --> 00:40:49,400
to work on the larger models.
555
00:40:54,320 --> 00:40:59,000
But in 1953, the Soviet
dictator Joseph Stalin died.
556
00:40:59,040 --> 00:41:01,840
And suddenly everything
began to change.
557
00:41:05,240 --> 00:41:09,320
Many Hungarians saw an opportunity
to break free from the shackles of
558
00:41:09,360 --> 00:41:12,040
Soviet oppression.
559
00:41:12,080 --> 00:41:14,240
Revolution was in the air
560
00:41:14,280 --> 00:41:17,160
and for the first time there was
a direct threat to Soviet control.
561
00:41:20,960 --> 00:41:26,800
There is a feeling in Hungary
that with the old dictator gone in
562
00:41:26,840 --> 00:41:31,720
Moscow, Hungary might be
able to stand on its own feet again
563
00:41:31,760 --> 00:41:34,840
and Hungary might
start to liberalise.
564
00:41:36,880 --> 00:41:42,080
The eastern governments are trying
to repress this but there are hopes
565
00:41:42,120 --> 00:41:44,640
in the population.
566
00:41:44,680 --> 00:41:51,120
The hopes reach a point
of outright rebellion in 1956.
567
00:41:51,160 --> 00:41:55,920
Eventually, state security
police open fire on the crowd
568
00:41:55,960 --> 00:42:00,160
and that triggered the start
of the violence that followed.
569
00:42:00,200 --> 00:42:01,840
The Hungarian
uprising saw Soviet
570
00:42:01,880 --> 00:42:06,240
troops marching through
the streets of Budapest.
571
00:42:06,280 --> 00:42:10,440
Many had arrived there by rail.
572
00:42:10,480 --> 00:42:17,160
In 1956, the Soviet army is
not a fully motorised army.
573
00:42:17,200 --> 00:42:19,640
It is very, very dependent
on the rail system.
574
00:42:21,600 --> 00:42:24,160
It was the Hungarian railways
575
00:42:24,200 --> 00:42:27,400
that became the life blood
of the Soviet occupation.
576
00:42:28,880 --> 00:42:32,840
The Soviet army crushed
the Hungarian uprising,
577
00:42:32,880 --> 00:42:37,320
killing thousands, imprisoning
thousands and exiling thousands.
578
00:42:41,400 --> 00:42:44,560
In the aftermath, the railways,
579
00:42:44,600 --> 00:42:48,560
locomotives and carriages
were put back into service
580
00:42:48,600 --> 00:42:52,160
and for more than 30 years
Hungary remained a communist state.
581
00:42:56,960 --> 00:43:00,920
With the arrival of diesel engines,
the locomotives and this old
582
00:43:00,960 --> 00:43:04,920
workshop have long since
been retired and now this
583
00:43:04,960 --> 00:43:10,760
place acts as a keeper of memories,
of both the good times and the bad.
584
00:43:15,400 --> 00:43:18,240
The warehouse and the trains
inside it look like they've been through
585
00:43:18,280 --> 00:43:22,720
hell and that's just it, the
history of the 20th century
586
00:43:22,760 --> 00:43:27,880
has been a series of huge
challenges and devastating wars.
587
00:43:27,920 --> 00:43:31,200
And you can see the marks of
that toil on what remains here.
588
00:43:40,880 --> 00:43:46,480
Now they're abandoned but once
many were beacons of hope and progress.
589
00:43:47,920 --> 00:43:50,440
Each one is steeped in history.
590
00:43:50,480 --> 00:43:55,720
Some remind us of difficult times
but also of human imagination,
591
00:43:55,760 --> 00:43:58,080
enterprise and spirit.
592
00:43:58,120 --> 00:44:00,120
Captioned by
ai-media ai-media. TV
53582
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