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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,440 --> 00:00:04,480 A castle - like building saved from destruction 2 00:00:04,520 --> 00:00:06,680 by a remarkable Hollywood connection. 3 00:00:06,720 --> 00:00:10,560 The same day that the wrecking balls came to tear this place down, 4 00:00:10,600 --> 00:00:14,320 was the same day that the filming company showed up. 5 00:00:14,360 --> 00:00:16,080 Vast monolithic structures 6 00:00:16,120 --> 00:00:20,360 that dominate a tiny island with a dark past. 7 00:00:20,400 --> 00:00:26,040 What are these things doing in this otherwise pristine landscape? 8 00:00:26,080 --> 00:00:29,960 A mysterious island on the edge of the baltic sea, 9 00:00:30,000 --> 00:00:31,920 where strange things happen. 10 00:00:31,960 --> 00:00:34,320 All the structures that exist 11 00:00:34,360 --> 00:00:37,120 are riddled with bullet holes and signs of explosions, 12 00:00:37,160 --> 00:00:40,120 it's like you are walking through a war zone. 13 00:00:40,160 --> 00:00:43,840 Weird battered constructions in a dangerous place 14 00:00:43,880 --> 00:00:46,040 on the coast of england. 15 00:00:48,280 --> 00:00:51,400 Pretty much all the works that were carried out here were secret. 16 00:00:51,440 --> 00:00:53,200 Ultimately top secret. 17 00:00:58,040 --> 00:01:02,680 Once they were some of the most advanced structures on the planet, 18 00:01:02,720 --> 00:01:06,840 at the cutting edge of design and construction. 19 00:01:06,880 --> 00:01:11,880 Today they stand abandoned, contaminated and sometimes deadly. 20 00:01:11,920 --> 00:01:18,040 But who built them and how and why were they abandoned? 21 00:01:38,440 --> 00:01:42,080 In the middle of the state of Ohio in the usa, 22 00:01:42,120 --> 00:01:45,080 just to the north of the city of Mansfield, 23 00:01:45,120 --> 00:01:49,200 stands an ornate impressive building. 24 00:01:52,880 --> 00:01:56,240 From the outside it looks like some kind of palace 25 00:01:56,280 --> 00:01:58,280 or even a castle. 26 00:01:58,320 --> 00:02:02,480 It appears to be the kind of structure that you would create 27 00:02:02,520 --> 00:02:06,280 that would have a lasting impression on anyone who set eyes on it. 28 00:02:09,000 --> 00:02:10,640 When you see this building, 29 00:02:10,680 --> 00:02:13,680 you know it was built for something important. 30 00:02:13,720 --> 00:02:16,520 And clearly whoever built it meant it to last. 31 00:02:18,080 --> 00:02:20,400 The building is vast and grand 32 00:02:20,440 --> 00:02:23,640 with very detailed and fancy architecture, 33 00:02:23,680 --> 00:02:26,360 it's definitely a statement piece. 34 00:02:28,280 --> 00:02:30,760 It's built with this massive, massive stone, 35 00:02:30,800 --> 00:02:34,680 so clearly it's not a very inviting place. 36 00:02:35,840 --> 00:02:38,600 It kind of gives you the shivers, 37 00:02:38,640 --> 00:02:41,400 it's sort of like a haunted house 38 00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:42,856 and it definitely gives you the impression 39 00:02:42,880 --> 00:02:46,400 that something bad may have happened here. 40 00:02:47,960 --> 00:02:51,520 Yet its forbidding appearance is the only real clue 41 00:02:51,560 --> 00:02:54,720 about what actually went on inside the building. 42 00:02:56,280 --> 00:03:01,520 That is a dark, brutal and controversial story. 43 00:03:03,200 --> 00:03:07,800 What it originally set out to do and what it ended up - 44 00:03:07,840 --> 00:03:10,480 those bookends couldn't be further apart. 45 00:03:12,280 --> 00:03:16,680 This was to be a place of spiritual regeneration and rebirth, 46 00:03:16,720 --> 00:03:20,160 it's about salvation, this is a righteous building. 47 00:03:21,880 --> 00:03:25,120 You have to imagine that those who conceived it, 48 00:03:25,160 --> 00:03:31,480 had no idea what a horror story of a legacy they had spawned. 49 00:03:33,040 --> 00:03:37,840 So why go to such lengths to build such a dramatic - looking structure? 50 00:03:37,880 --> 00:03:41,040 What was it used for? 51 00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:43,640 And why was it abandoned? 52 00:03:47,800 --> 00:03:49,960 The origin of the building's story 53 00:03:50,000 --> 00:03:53,600 stretch back as far as the late 19th century. 54 00:03:55,280 --> 00:03:57,760 It was built in the mid-1880s, 55 00:03:57,800 --> 00:04:01,640 and it was intended to be a beacon of hope for the state. 56 00:04:03,200 --> 00:04:06,360 This site at Mansfield was chosen in 1885, 57 00:04:06,400 --> 00:04:10,040 for a very special reason and a very particular project. 58 00:04:10,080 --> 00:04:13,400 It was one that was going to be liberal and progressive, 59 00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:17,320 they wanted to take young offenders and rehabilitate 60 00:04:17,360 --> 00:04:20,480 and re-educate them in the most positive way possible. 61 00:04:22,040 --> 00:04:25,360 It was a reformatory, so the notion was - 62 00:04:25,400 --> 00:04:26,656 you weren't just punishing people, 63 00:04:26,680 --> 00:04:27,800 you were helping them learn 64 00:04:27,840 --> 00:04:29,840 and then you would release them out in the world 65 00:04:29,880 --> 00:04:32,360 and they would commit crimes no more. 66 00:04:33,240 --> 00:04:38,000 This is the Ohio state reformatory. 67 00:04:40,520 --> 00:04:46,600 Although construction began in 1886, it wasn't until September 1896, 68 00:04:46,640 --> 00:04:50,320 that the first 150 young offenders were brought here 69 00:04:50,360 --> 00:04:52,520 to begin their rehabilitation. 70 00:04:55,120 --> 00:04:58,280 They started housing prisoners in the complex 71 00:04:58,320 --> 00:04:59,720 before it was even finished, 72 00:04:59,760 --> 00:05:02,040 and the prisoners themselves did a lot of the work 73 00:05:02,080 --> 00:05:04,000 to complete the building, 74 00:05:04,040 --> 00:05:05,920 including building the sewer system. 75 00:05:10,600 --> 00:05:12,240 Funding delays 76 00:05:12,280 --> 00:05:17,880 meant that the reformatory was not finally completed until 1910. 77 00:05:17,920 --> 00:05:22,040 While the facility at first had a progressive agenda, 78 00:05:22,080 --> 00:05:24,520 the reformist zeal was soon replaced 79 00:05:24,560 --> 00:05:27,800 by a more brutal approach to life inside. 80 00:05:32,440 --> 00:05:38,120 The place had taken a completely different direction. 81 00:05:38,160 --> 00:05:42,400 This was now a place not of rehabilitation, 82 00:05:42,440 --> 00:05:45,080 but a place of incarceration, 83 00:05:45,120 --> 00:05:50,640 where you would lock up the baddies and throw away the key. 84 00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:52,720 This wing is proof 85 00:05:52,760 --> 00:05:57,000 of the very different direction the reformatory eventually took. 86 00:05:57,040 --> 00:05:59,880 As expert Ron puff explains. 87 00:06:02,120 --> 00:06:04,280 We are currently in the west cell block. 88 00:06:04,320 --> 00:06:07,080 The west cell block was a housing unit for your inmates. 89 00:06:07,120 --> 00:06:10,560 This is five tiers, originally 350 cells, 90 00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:12,400 meant for one inmate to a cell, 91 00:06:12,440 --> 00:06:14,600 ended up from the very beginning with two inmates, 92 00:06:14,640 --> 00:06:16,080 so we housed 700 inmates here. 93 00:06:16,120 --> 00:06:18,520 It wasn't so bad early on living here, 94 00:06:18,560 --> 00:06:22,440 now in later years they could be in their cells 20, 22 hours a day. 95 00:06:25,560 --> 00:06:27,720 Can you imagine being there, 96 00:06:27,760 --> 00:06:31,840 walking through those corridors into your caged cell 97 00:06:31,880 --> 00:06:36,160 and hearing the sound of the door slammed and locked behind you? 98 00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:41,440 Then the riotous sounds of other inmates. 99 00:06:41,480 --> 00:06:44,280 It must have been a terrifying existence. 100 00:06:46,120 --> 00:06:49,160 But the rising crime rate meant that more and more prisoners 101 00:06:49,200 --> 00:06:52,800 were arriving at the Ohio state reformatory. 102 00:06:52,840 --> 00:06:57,840 Soon, juvenile inmates were being kept apart from adult prisoners. 103 00:06:57,880 --> 00:07:01,720 The prison's aims and purpose were changing fast. 104 00:07:01,760 --> 00:07:05,720 So fast, the juveniles were forced to leave. 105 00:07:09,440 --> 00:07:12,640 So they keep this as an adult facility 106 00:07:12,680 --> 00:07:15,640 and all those juveniles have to go to another facility altogether. 107 00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:19,560 Now you have got a prison full of space, what do you do with it? 108 00:07:21,480 --> 00:07:22,720 In wider society, 109 00:07:22,760 --> 00:07:24,760 ever more people were being convicted 110 00:07:24,800 --> 00:07:26,840 of increasingly violent crimes. 111 00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:31,880 Prisons across the country were becoming overfilled with inmates, 112 00:07:31,920 --> 00:07:34,240 so Mansfield became just another prison, 113 00:07:34,280 --> 00:07:37,440 in fact, it became one of the hardest prisons, 114 00:07:37,480 --> 00:07:38,840 the worst of the worst, 115 00:07:38,880 --> 00:07:41,600 with some of the most violent offenders from around the country 116 00:07:41,640 --> 00:07:42,960 being kept there. 117 00:07:44,520 --> 00:07:49,360 Ohio state reformatory certainly had its share of notorious inmates. 118 00:07:49,400 --> 00:07:53,040 One was the infamous George 'bugs' moran, 119 00:07:53,080 --> 00:07:56,760 who was part of the John Dillinger crime gang. 120 00:07:56,800 --> 00:07:58,560 Others included William Sidney Porter, 121 00:07:58,600 --> 00:08:00,880 better known as o. Henry, 122 00:08:00,920 --> 00:08:02,880 the short story writer, 123 00:08:02,920 --> 00:08:05,680 and Sam Shepherd, whose conviction in 1954, 124 00:08:05,720 --> 00:08:09,880 for murdering his wife, attracted national media coverage. 125 00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:16,480 As inmate numbers continued to rise, 126 00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:20,840 life in the prison became even more harsh and fraught with danger. 127 00:08:20,880 --> 00:08:23,880 Living day - to - day was a perilous business 128 00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:26,800 as prison discipline broke down. 129 00:08:29,400 --> 00:08:33,880 Ohio state eventually became a maximum security facility. 130 00:08:37,320 --> 00:08:41,600 Violence was part of everyday life. 131 00:08:41,640 --> 00:08:44,720 You could be beat up in a fight, you could be stabbed, 132 00:08:44,760 --> 00:08:48,560 you could be mugged, you could be thrown off a high walkway. 133 00:08:48,600 --> 00:08:50,440 I mean the place was such, 134 00:08:50,480 --> 00:08:53,640 that you were in fear of your life each and every day. 135 00:08:55,200 --> 00:08:58,600 Inmates were told when you came here, make yourself a weapon 136 00:08:58,640 --> 00:09:01,640 and hide it in the bed, so if everything goes crazy, 137 00:09:01,680 --> 00:09:03,680 you at least know where your shank, or your rock 138 00:09:03,720 --> 00:09:06,600 or whatever it is, you placed it, 139 00:09:06,640 --> 00:09:08,640 so you can be safe. 140 00:09:08,680 --> 00:09:10,600 And they feared coming in the gates here. 141 00:09:12,880 --> 00:09:16,080 One of the most frightening places in which to find yourself, 142 00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:19,880 was at the end of these dark corridors. 143 00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:21,840 It was somewhere no-one wanted to be. 144 00:09:25,520 --> 00:09:26,880 For the worst offenders 145 00:09:26,920 --> 00:09:29,016 there was solitary confinement here for the reformatory. 146 00:09:29,040 --> 00:09:31,840 When you came in there was punishment, 147 00:09:31,880 --> 00:09:34,960 so the whole time you were in here, you weren't supposed to talk. 148 00:09:35,000 --> 00:09:37,600 They might keep the lights on 24 hours a day, 149 00:09:37,640 --> 00:09:39,216 they might keep the lights off 24 hours a day, 150 00:09:39,240 --> 00:09:40,880 there was no reading. 151 00:09:40,920 --> 00:09:42,416 Your meal schedule would be moved around, 152 00:09:42,440 --> 00:09:44,360 so you never knew what time it was, 153 00:09:44,400 --> 00:09:47,240 and so early on they came in here with no clothes, 154 00:09:47,280 --> 00:09:49,720 they were naked, they had a bucket that was their commode, 155 00:09:49,760 --> 00:09:51,840 they slept on the cement floor. 156 00:09:55,160 --> 00:09:59,200 In a crowded prison, blighted by almost daily violence and rioting, 157 00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:02,840 it was no surprise that 'the hole', as it was known, 158 00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:05,400 was always crammed with inmates. 159 00:10:10,040 --> 00:10:12,920 In one case they had a riot 160 00:10:12,960 --> 00:10:16,200 and they wound up putting in 120 prisoners down in the hole 161 00:10:16,240 --> 00:10:19,440 at the same time for 30 days. 162 00:10:19,480 --> 00:10:21,720 In this instance they actually found a body 163 00:10:21,760 --> 00:10:25,880 that had been murdered and stuffed into a mattress for several days 164 00:10:25,920 --> 00:10:27,600 before anyone realised he was dead. 165 00:10:29,640 --> 00:10:31,840 The terrible violence continued 166 00:10:31,880 --> 00:10:37,040 until the inmates themselves finally took action. 167 00:10:39,320 --> 00:10:41,520 Inmates finally took matters into their own hands 168 00:10:41,560 --> 00:10:43,520 and they filed a lawsuit 169 00:10:43,560 --> 00:10:46,440 that the facility was violating their constitutional rights 170 00:10:46,480 --> 00:10:48,840 by dehumanising them. 171 00:10:48,880 --> 00:10:51,960 In the end the problems of the site were so widespread 172 00:10:52,000 --> 00:10:55,080 that it was all too much, and the facility was abandoned. 173 00:10:58,600 --> 00:11:01,160 That was in 1990. 174 00:11:01,200 --> 00:11:03,400 During its 96 - year history, 175 00:11:03,440 --> 00:11:06,080 some 150,000 inmates had walked 176 00:11:06,120 --> 00:11:08,320 through Ohio state reformatory's doors, 177 00:11:08,360 --> 00:11:13,080 more than 200 of them had died while they were inside. 178 00:11:13,120 --> 00:11:15,840 These days there are many accounts of it being haunted, 179 00:11:15,880 --> 00:11:19,120 of there being paranormal activity at the site, 180 00:11:19,160 --> 00:11:20,400 but that is hardly surprising 181 00:11:20,440 --> 00:11:22,760 when you think of the degree of violence 182 00:11:22,800 --> 00:11:25,160 that the building had seen for so many decades. 183 00:11:26,840 --> 00:11:30,120 Is the Ohio state reformatory haunted? 184 00:11:30,160 --> 00:11:33,840 And if you ask a number of our staff members they will say yes, 185 00:11:33,880 --> 00:11:37,760 they will snap their finger just like that, many things happen here. 186 00:11:37,800 --> 00:11:40,720 Why? I will let you figure it out. 187 00:11:49,360 --> 00:11:54,520 Today this grand facility has become a major tourist attraction, 188 00:11:54,560 --> 00:11:58,680 thanks in no small part to a strange twist of fate. 189 00:12:01,840 --> 00:12:04,200 It was scheduled for demolition, 190 00:12:04,240 --> 00:12:05,720 but just before that, 191 00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:07,920 a film crew came to shoot a movie 192 00:12:07,960 --> 00:12:10,160 that of course has become world-famous, 193 00:12:10,200 --> 00:12:12,840 'the Shawshank redemption'. 194 00:12:12,880 --> 00:12:17,600 The same day that the wrecking balls came to tear this place down, 195 00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:20,880 was the same day that the filming company showed up. 196 00:12:22,440 --> 00:12:27,080 The 'Shawshank redemption' was the redemption of this prison. 197 00:12:31,960 --> 00:12:35,440 Just off the coast of normandy in France, 198 00:12:35,480 --> 00:12:37,560 is the small island of Guernsey. 199 00:12:37,600 --> 00:12:42,160 Along its coastline are bizarre - looking constructions. 200 00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:50,920 In the otherwise quiet and picturesque surroundings, 201 00:12:50,960 --> 00:12:52,520 you start to discover 202 00:12:52,560 --> 00:12:59,400 a huge amount of these concrete imposing structures. 203 00:12:59,440 --> 00:13:04,280 The way that these concrete monoliths are stepped, 204 00:13:04,320 --> 00:13:09,200 they look a bit like the heads off of easter island. 205 00:13:10,880 --> 00:13:15,360 It's like star wars has been filmed there. 206 00:13:15,400 --> 00:13:19,120 These really strange monolithic type constructions, 207 00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:21,000 poking out of the ground. 208 00:13:22,560 --> 00:13:28,360 Further inland, a cavernous concrete bowl lies sunken into the ground. 209 00:13:29,920 --> 00:13:33,880 Its huge, it's like an amphitheatre. 210 00:13:33,920 --> 00:13:39,480 I don't think the locals would have ever envisaged structures like this 211 00:13:39,520 --> 00:13:41,560 being built on the island. 212 00:13:44,200 --> 00:13:49,840 Beneath this great mass of concrete lurk other hidden features. 213 00:13:52,320 --> 00:13:57,600 There is a railway track that starts to lead you into a tunnel 214 00:13:57,640 --> 00:14:03,120 and you follow that tunnel inside you start going underground. 215 00:14:05,040 --> 00:14:06,040 When you get closer, 216 00:14:06,080 --> 00:14:07,776 you see that there is actually a lot more to them. 217 00:14:07,800 --> 00:14:12,920 There are networks and you start to see old paraphernalia. 218 00:14:12,960 --> 00:14:16,240 In the maze of dark rooms, 219 00:14:16,280 --> 00:14:20,240 mysterious symbols and writings can still be seen. 220 00:14:20,280 --> 00:14:24,240 But the words are not in English, they are written in German. 221 00:14:24,280 --> 00:14:26,240 And these are the first hints 222 00:14:26,280 --> 00:14:32,240 of the terrible fate that befell those who once occupied the rooms. 223 00:14:34,560 --> 00:14:37,280 Things started to get really tough. 224 00:14:39,040 --> 00:14:43,080 In fact, many of them began to starve. 225 00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:50,400 Who was it that built these gigantic structures? 226 00:14:50,440 --> 00:14:53,840 And why were they finally abandoned? 227 00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:02,560 The roots of the mystery can be found 228 00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:06,200 in the early years of world war 2. 229 00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:12,200 By June 1940, Hitler's forces had defeated France 230 00:15:12,240 --> 00:15:16,880 and were turning their attention to their next target, Great Britain. 231 00:15:19,280 --> 00:15:22,600 A mere 20 miles away, across the English channel, 232 00:15:22,640 --> 00:15:25,320 the prize was tantalisingly close, 233 00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:31,000 but a small piece of British territory lay even closer - 234 00:15:31,040 --> 00:15:32,520 the channel islands. 235 00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,400 Although the channel islands are British territory, 236 00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:41,160 they are actually much closer to the coast of France 237 00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:46,000 and Hitler viewed them as strategically important. 238 00:15:46,040 --> 00:15:50,440 If you want to go from britain and invade France, 239 00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:55,320 the channel islands are a great first step. 240 00:15:55,360 --> 00:15:57,760 They get you most of the way there, 241 00:15:57,800 --> 00:16:01,440 and the Nazis could not allow the British 242 00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:07,600 to continue to control those islands right on the edge of France. 243 00:16:07,640 --> 00:16:11,360 On the 28th of June 1940, 244 00:16:11,400 --> 00:16:15,520 luftwaffe bombers came swooping in over the islands. 245 00:16:17,320 --> 00:16:18,480 A tragedy within the war, 246 00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:20,160 was the fact that the Germans 247 00:16:20,200 --> 00:16:21,616 essentially bombed the channel islands 248 00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:24,120 expecting there to be quite a lot of resistance 249 00:16:24,160 --> 00:16:28,560 and they killed about 44 people and they didn't need to do that. 250 00:16:28,600 --> 00:16:32,760 It was only a few days later when the Germans actually arrived, 251 00:16:32,800 --> 00:16:37,120 they discovered that the islands had been undefended the whole time. 252 00:16:37,160 --> 00:16:39,000 (Bell tolls) 253 00:16:41,480 --> 00:16:44,880 In 1940, britain was standing alone 254 00:16:44,920 --> 00:16:48,560 against the power of the third reich 255 00:16:48,600 --> 00:16:55,280 and Churchill was not sure he could defend the island of Great Britain, 256 00:16:55,320 --> 00:16:58,920 never mind Guernsey and Jersey, sark and alderney. 257 00:17:00,640 --> 00:17:05,320 As the German army stormed through France during the summer of 1940, 258 00:17:05,360 --> 00:17:11,240 about a third of channel islanders, some 30,000 people, were evacuated. 259 00:17:13,280 --> 00:17:15,800 The rest chose to remain, 260 00:17:15,840 --> 00:17:19,680 preferring to take their chances when the inevitable invasion came. 261 00:17:21,240 --> 00:17:24,640 In late June, the German flag was raised on Guernsey. 262 00:17:26,640 --> 00:17:30,760 On July 1st, Jersey surrendered. 263 00:17:30,800 --> 00:17:34,520 The German order for islands to fly white flags over their houses 264 00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:39,240 was just a small taste of what was to come. 265 00:17:39,280 --> 00:17:43,560 While Churchill decided to leave the islands undefended, 266 00:17:43,600 --> 00:17:46,280 Hitler had other ideas. 267 00:17:46,320 --> 00:17:49,840 He desperately wanted them fortified with the most impressive defences 268 00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:53,240 the third reich could create. 269 00:17:53,280 --> 00:17:58,960 Here on Guernsey, this was part of the plan. 270 00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:02,000 The mighty mp3 tower. 271 00:18:06,440 --> 00:18:10,720 Local expert and preservationist Paul bourgaize, 272 00:18:10,760 --> 00:18:15,440 explains how the tower fitted into the Nazi plans. 273 00:18:17,640 --> 00:18:20,040 It was basically a range-finding tower. 274 00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:21,800 It was one of five, 275 00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:24,720 and each level had range-finding capabilities 276 00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:27,640 to obviously find and observe the targets 277 00:18:27,680 --> 00:18:30,960 and send the data back to the gun batteries inland. 278 00:18:32,600 --> 00:18:36,040 The Germans spent over a year building their extensive network 279 00:18:36,080 --> 00:18:38,760 of defences on Guernsey. 280 00:18:42,680 --> 00:18:47,600 Located a few miles inland from the mp3 range tower, 281 00:18:47,640 --> 00:18:52,360 this immense concrete bowl was to be one of its most important features. 282 00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:57,360 But what was it to be used for? 283 00:18:59,800 --> 00:19:04,400 There is a clue in the rail tracks that snake underground. 284 00:19:06,040 --> 00:19:10,240 This railway track was used to bring the ammunition 285 00:19:10,280 --> 00:19:13,080 from the storage bunkers 286 00:19:13,120 --> 00:19:17,880 and they would be stored in this large room here 287 00:19:17,920 --> 00:19:21,000 and these would be loaded through this flush boot hatch 288 00:19:21,040 --> 00:19:22,520 and then stored in that room. 289 00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:29,120 More than 61,000 cubic yards of concrete were used 290 00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:32,440 to build the bunker systems that contained troop quarters, 291 00:19:32,480 --> 00:19:34,320 ammunition storage 292 00:19:34,360 --> 00:19:38,080 and electrical generators - 293 00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:43,440 all constructed to withstand concerted sustained firepower. 294 00:19:43,480 --> 00:19:45,600 Deep in the darkness, 295 00:19:45,640 --> 00:19:48,160 the slogans on the walls provide chilling proof 296 00:19:48,200 --> 00:19:51,080 of the German army's intentions. 297 00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:53,960 And of its supreme confidence. 298 00:19:56,280 --> 00:19:58,720 You can see on one side we have got a nice German eagle 299 00:19:58,760 --> 00:20:00,400 painted on the wall, 300 00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:06,960 and over on this side the emblem of the naval engineers 301 00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:08,840 and this cog, 302 00:20:08,880 --> 00:20:12,800 and they are marching towards england, that was the motto. 303 00:20:14,480 --> 00:20:16,840 "Wir fahren nach england." 304 00:20:16,880 --> 00:20:18,080 We are going to england, 305 00:20:18,120 --> 00:20:21,800 the Germans intended to invade england. 306 00:20:21,840 --> 00:20:27,320 Why would they be painting that on a bunker? 307 00:20:27,360 --> 00:20:29,320 The Germans great confidence 308 00:20:29,360 --> 00:20:33,760 may have been helped by what was housed in this huge concrete bowl. 309 00:20:35,600 --> 00:20:38,760 Formidable guns, 310 00:20:38,800 --> 00:20:43,160 in a bunker complex that was called battery miras. 311 00:20:45,600 --> 00:20:48,080 They consisted of four gunning placements 312 00:20:48,120 --> 00:20:52,880 with huge great big guns disguised as houses. 313 00:20:52,920 --> 00:20:58,080 You can start to imagine the size and the scale of these guns. 314 00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:04,320 Here we are. 315 00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:09,880 We can see one of the four huge emplacements for the 30.5 cm gun. 316 00:21:09,920 --> 00:21:13,760 Mounted down that central position where those studs are sticking up. 317 00:21:15,720 --> 00:21:18,360 Underneath the mount is a naval depth charge 318 00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:21,040 and that could have been detonated 319 00:21:21,080 --> 00:21:24,080 in the event that the emplacement was captured 320 00:21:24,120 --> 00:21:26,760 and blow the gun off its mountings. 321 00:21:30,560 --> 00:21:33,000 With a range of over 30 miles, 322 00:21:33,040 --> 00:21:36,040 the four guns were able to protect the channel islands 323 00:21:36,080 --> 00:21:41,240 and reach almost all the way to the normandy coast. 324 00:21:41,280 --> 00:21:45,520 The German fire power on Guernsey was extraordinary. 325 00:21:45,560 --> 00:21:49,560 In total 17 coasted artillery batteries 326 00:21:49,600 --> 00:21:56,680 and 175 anti-air craft guns were placed on the island. 327 00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:01,360 But all of this came at a huge cost in resources. 328 00:22:03,560 --> 00:22:05,240 This was part of the Atlantic wall, 329 00:22:05,280 --> 00:22:08,280 which stretched all the way from Norway down to Spain 330 00:22:08,320 --> 00:22:11,000 and it is estimated that some 8% of all of the concrete 331 00:22:11,040 --> 00:22:12,760 along all of those constructions 332 00:22:12,800 --> 00:22:15,720 was just housed in the channel islands. 333 00:22:15,760 --> 00:22:19,560 In fact, they fortified the channel islands so much 334 00:22:19,600 --> 00:22:22,200 that there were more guns installed here 335 00:22:22,240 --> 00:22:28,000 than there were on the neighbouring 600 miles of normandy coast line. 336 00:22:28,040 --> 00:22:33,080 German officers who were sceptical about the strategic 337 00:22:33,120 --> 00:22:36,640 and operational value of the channel islands, 338 00:22:36,680 --> 00:22:41,520 referred to the dense resource - intensive fortification, 339 00:22:41,560 --> 00:22:45,000 as 'Hitler's island madness.' 340 00:22:46,880 --> 00:22:48,560 with so much effort, 341 00:22:48,600 --> 00:22:51,800 time and resources committed to building it, 342 00:22:51,840 --> 00:22:55,680 and with its frequent appearance in German propaganda, 343 00:22:55,720 --> 00:22:58,720 what finally became of battery miras? 344 00:23:00,400 --> 00:23:06,040 The beginning of the end came on June 6th, 1944. 345 00:23:06,080 --> 00:23:11,080 The famous date of the allied invasion of France. 346 00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:15,320 After the d-day landings, 347 00:23:15,360 --> 00:23:19,800 the German soldiers based in the channel islands became cut off 348 00:23:19,840 --> 00:23:23,120 and had no access to supplies. 349 00:23:24,680 --> 00:23:27,640 There were red cross packages delivered onto the islands, 350 00:23:27,680 --> 00:23:30,080 but they were for the locals only, for the British, 351 00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:32,680 the Germans had to go without. 352 00:23:34,640 --> 00:23:36,960 The troops themselves that weren't allowed those rations, 353 00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:38,840 were really starving. 354 00:23:38,880 --> 00:23:42,880 They were trying to catch birds, you know, 355 00:23:42,920 --> 00:23:44,160 eating limpets off the beach, 356 00:23:44,200 --> 00:23:47,880 anything, you know, seaweed and some things, you know, 357 00:23:47,920 --> 00:23:49,120 even made themselves sick, 358 00:23:49,160 --> 00:23:51,416 eating things that they really shouldn't have been eating, 359 00:23:51,440 --> 00:23:53,200 just to stay alive. 360 00:23:54,760 --> 00:23:57,120 After almost a year of near - starvation, 361 00:23:57,160 --> 00:24:00,520 the German Garrison on Guernsey finally surrendered 362 00:24:00,560 --> 00:24:03,400 on may 9th, 1945. 363 00:24:05,880 --> 00:24:08,560 Battery miras fell silent. 364 00:24:08,600 --> 00:24:12,040 And its colossal guns were sold off for scrap. 365 00:24:21,640 --> 00:24:25,680 Today these eerie concrete symbols of the third reich 366 00:24:25,720 --> 00:24:28,400 still dominate the Guernsey skyline. 367 00:24:28,440 --> 00:24:31,280 A reminder of a time when these islands became 368 00:24:31,320 --> 00:24:34,840 one of the most fortified places on earth. 369 00:24:38,640 --> 00:24:42,480 Looking at these massive concrete fortifications, 370 00:24:42,520 --> 00:24:45,320 it reminds us that even tiny corners of Europe 371 00:24:45,360 --> 00:24:48,040 that we barely even heard of, 372 00:24:48,080 --> 00:24:50,440 are really important to some people, 373 00:24:50,480 --> 00:24:54,960 and to their lives as they lived through the second world war. 374 00:24:56,520 --> 00:24:58,960 It's a part of history that is easily forgotten, 375 00:24:59,000 --> 00:25:03,240 that part of britain was occupied, but important to remember. 376 00:25:10,480 --> 00:25:11,560 In southern Finland, 377 00:25:11,600 --> 00:25:13,680 on the edge of the baltic sea, 378 00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:18,160 is what's known locally as the mysterious island. 379 00:25:25,360 --> 00:25:28,280 From a distance it looks like other islands in the region. 380 00:25:30,120 --> 00:25:31,680 When you get closer, 381 00:25:31,720 --> 00:25:33,760 you can see there is something different about it. 382 00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:37,320 The island itself has a kind of darkness, 383 00:25:37,360 --> 00:25:41,320 everything is a little bit spooky, 384 00:25:41,360 --> 00:25:45,000 you wouldn't necessarily want to find yourself on the island alone. 385 00:25:48,040 --> 00:25:53,040 Mysteriously, ships compasses don't operate properly here. 386 00:25:53,080 --> 00:25:55,120 The beaches are stained black, 387 00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:59,240 and the more you look, the stranger things get. 388 00:26:01,600 --> 00:26:06,040 You can spot what looks like bunkers hidden along the shoreline, 389 00:26:06,080 --> 00:26:12,120 ruins of old pipelines, piles of broken up rock and concrete. 390 00:26:12,160 --> 00:26:14,240 This isn't an ordinary island. 391 00:26:15,920 --> 00:26:18,600 The island itself is also riddled 392 00:26:18,640 --> 00:26:21,800 with some ancient history about tales of, 393 00:26:21,840 --> 00:26:25,000 you know, compasses not working quite correctly. 394 00:26:25,040 --> 00:26:27,560 There has been a whole history of shipwrecks. 395 00:26:30,600 --> 00:26:35,120 The wreckage and debris are not confined to the waters. 396 00:26:35,160 --> 00:26:39,520 On land too, there are strange ruins. 397 00:26:39,560 --> 00:26:43,120 All the structures that exist are riddled with bullet holes 398 00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:47,120 and signs of explosions, it's like you are walking through a war zone. 399 00:26:47,160 --> 00:26:51,240 What is the problem with this place, why is it so odd? 400 00:26:56,400 --> 00:26:58,520 The answers to this peculiar puzzle 401 00:26:58,560 --> 00:27:01,840 can be found in the early 19th century. 402 00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:08,160 By 1809, Finland had been incorporated into the Russian empire 403 00:27:08,200 --> 00:27:12,720 and this was a strategically vital site. 404 00:27:14,920 --> 00:27:17,200 Jussaro island. 405 00:27:21,120 --> 00:27:24,400 The southern part of Finland is very important to Russia, 406 00:27:24,440 --> 00:27:28,760 because that is the gate to the capital at st Petersburg 407 00:27:28,800 --> 00:27:29,960 and so, 408 00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:31,920 controlling the Gulf of Finland 409 00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:36,760 is an absolute defence requirement for Russia. 410 00:27:38,320 --> 00:27:41,480 It sits in such a strategic location in the baltic sea, 411 00:27:41,520 --> 00:27:43,520 anybody trying to head to Helsinki 412 00:27:43,560 --> 00:27:46,040 or the port of st Petersburg in Russia, 413 00:27:46,080 --> 00:27:48,000 has to sail right by that island. 414 00:27:48,040 --> 00:27:51,080 That makes it very valuable from a military perspective. 415 00:27:54,080 --> 00:27:59,440 Vital it may have been, but it was also extremely dangerous. 416 00:27:59,480 --> 00:28:03,040 In the glacial periods it was covered under kilometres of ice, 417 00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:04,440 it was pushed down. 418 00:28:04,480 --> 00:28:05,720 Since the ice has gone, 419 00:28:05,760 --> 00:28:09,600 the area is actually slowly lifting, about 4mm a year. 420 00:28:11,600 --> 00:28:15,920 So you might sail past a place that 50 years ago was free sailing 421 00:28:15,960 --> 00:28:21,640 and now there is a rocky island emerging right in your path. 422 00:28:23,200 --> 00:28:24,640 Under Russian rule, 423 00:28:24,680 --> 00:28:26,480 a pilot station was set up here 424 00:28:26,520 --> 00:28:29,560 to help ships navigate these precarious waters 425 00:28:29,600 --> 00:28:33,120 through to st Petersburg. 426 00:28:33,160 --> 00:28:35,680 But why did the remnants of an extensive complex 427 00:28:35,720 --> 00:28:40,360 litter this remote outpost? 428 00:28:40,400 --> 00:28:45,000 It was an underground discovery that first interested the Russian state. 429 00:28:47,040 --> 00:28:49,200 It turns out to have been an amazing find, 430 00:28:49,240 --> 00:28:53,400 because it was the largest undersea iron ore reserve in Finland. 431 00:28:55,280 --> 00:28:58,480 That solved a centuries-old mystery. 432 00:28:58,520 --> 00:29:02,280 It's why ships compasses work so badly here. 433 00:29:03,600 --> 00:29:04,640 Compasses work 434 00:29:04,680 --> 00:29:07,800 by being drawn to the magnetic field of the north pole, 435 00:29:07,840 --> 00:29:10,960 but the iron ore in this particular region 436 00:29:11,000 --> 00:29:13,360 had its own magnetic field 437 00:29:13,400 --> 00:29:16,680 and compasses were more drawn to that than the north pole. 438 00:29:18,840 --> 00:29:22,600 In the 1840s, Russian prisoners were sent to the islands mine 439 00:29:22,640 --> 00:29:26,320 and forced to excavate the valuable metal ore. 440 00:29:28,840 --> 00:29:34,080 The miners were down there with long metal drills and sledge hammers, 441 00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:38,160 banging away, dislodging the rock face bit by bit. 442 00:29:40,040 --> 00:29:41,960 And the conditions were so hellish, 443 00:29:42,000 --> 00:29:44,720 some of the prisoners reported they would rather be sent 444 00:29:44,760 --> 00:29:46,960 to labour camps in Siberia. 445 00:29:48,920 --> 00:29:54,160 By the time Finland declared independence from Russia in 1917, 446 00:29:54,200 --> 00:29:56,560 mining on the island had stopped. 447 00:29:56,600 --> 00:29:59,480 During the following decades, 448 00:29:59,520 --> 00:30:02,320 the young nation's relationship with its communist neighbour 449 00:30:02,360 --> 00:30:04,920 was marked by tension and war. 450 00:30:06,600 --> 00:30:10,840 In 1939, the infamous winter war broke out. 451 00:30:10,880 --> 00:30:13,200 A conflict that was fought in temperatures 452 00:30:13,240 --> 00:30:17,480 as low as minus 43 celsius. 453 00:30:17,520 --> 00:30:20,400 The better - equipped fins were able to inflict huge casualties 454 00:30:20,440 --> 00:30:21,720 on the Soviet troops, 455 00:30:21,760 --> 00:30:27,160 using the deep snow, dense forests and long hours of darkness 456 00:30:27,200 --> 00:30:29,200 to maximum advantage. 457 00:30:29,240 --> 00:30:33,200 The war was ended by the signing of the Moscow peace treaty 458 00:30:33,240 --> 00:30:34,520 in march 1940, 459 00:30:34,560 --> 00:30:38,760 and although the Finns were forced to cede territory to the Soviets, 460 00:30:38,800 --> 00:30:42,280 the red army's reputation was badly damaged. 461 00:30:42,320 --> 00:30:45,680 Its poor performance is said to have convinced Hitler 462 00:30:45,720 --> 00:30:48,400 to invade Russia the following year. 463 00:30:50,760 --> 00:30:52,520 By the 1950s, however, 464 00:30:52,560 --> 00:30:55,360 Finland had settled into its uneasy existence 465 00:30:55,400 --> 00:30:59,760 between the west and the Soviet union. 466 00:31:00,880 --> 00:31:06,120 In those tense political times, mining at jussaro began again. 467 00:31:07,600 --> 00:31:09,840 Finland reopened the mines, 468 00:31:09,880 --> 00:31:11,440 and now they had modern equipment 469 00:31:11,480 --> 00:31:15,040 and they could mine on a much greater, more industrial scale. 470 00:31:18,560 --> 00:31:20,880 When mining started back up again, 471 00:31:20,920 --> 00:31:23,440 they had to put in a whole new infrastructure 472 00:31:23,480 --> 00:31:26,080 which included crushing plants, 473 00:31:26,120 --> 00:31:32,000 underwater railway lines, pipe networks on land, deep tunnels... 474 00:31:32,040 --> 00:31:36,120 I mean, it became a productive mining machine. 475 00:31:39,640 --> 00:31:44,160 Former resident Goran wikstrom arrived in 1956 476 00:31:44,200 --> 00:31:46,720 as preparations for modern mining operations 477 00:31:46,760 --> 00:31:48,480 were getting underway. 478 00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:54,120 The tunnelling went straight out from here to the stone island. 479 00:31:54,160 --> 00:31:57,000 The tunnel went straight out from there 480 00:31:57,040 --> 00:32:02,760 from the shaft above at a depth of 550 ft, out there. 481 00:32:02,800 --> 00:32:04,440 There were mining tunnels - 482 00:32:04,480 --> 00:32:11,080 in total 1.8 miles of tunnels all at a depth of nearly 600 ft. 483 00:32:13,320 --> 00:32:19,320 However, mining on the island once again became unsustainable. 484 00:32:19,360 --> 00:32:23,320 Global iron prices plummeted and so did profits. 485 00:32:23,360 --> 00:32:29,480 The operation was shut down and the workers were simply sent packing. 486 00:32:32,240 --> 00:32:35,640 It was at Christmas in 1967, 487 00:32:35,680 --> 00:32:40,080 when the final decision was made that everyone was to leave here. 488 00:32:40,120 --> 00:32:41,920 It was over, in other words. 489 00:32:41,960 --> 00:32:48,880 We just moved out and then the destruction set in. 490 00:32:49,760 --> 00:32:54,560 But the debris and destruction here is clear to see. 491 00:32:54,600 --> 00:32:58,760 Surely the damage was not caused solely by nature and the elements? 492 00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:05,240 After the miners moved out, the Finnish army moved in. 493 00:33:05,280 --> 00:33:08,840 The government realised this location was just too strategic 494 00:33:08,880 --> 00:33:11,320 to leave unoccupied. 495 00:33:11,360 --> 00:33:13,480 The 60s, 70s and 80s, yes, 496 00:33:13,520 --> 00:33:17,040 there was a very genuine threat from the Soviet union. 497 00:33:17,080 --> 00:33:18,840 They were pretty careful, 498 00:33:18,880 --> 00:33:22,840 pretty conciliatory to Russia during that period, 499 00:33:22,880 --> 00:33:26,120 but a lot of the use of the island was really for training 500 00:33:26,160 --> 00:33:27,760 and military exercises. 501 00:33:27,800 --> 00:33:34,560 It was a place where they could fire weapons and drop bombs 502 00:33:34,600 --> 00:33:38,240 without any danger of injuring the civilian population, 503 00:33:38,280 --> 00:33:39,960 because there was no civilian population. 504 00:33:41,920 --> 00:33:43,960 The Russian invasion never came. 505 00:33:44,000 --> 00:33:49,360 In 2002, the armed forces held their final shooting drill 506 00:33:49,400 --> 00:33:53,120 and the island was abandoned once again. 507 00:33:59,880 --> 00:34:03,040 Today, the battered site serves as a national park, 508 00:34:03,080 --> 00:34:07,280 with half the island open to the public. 509 00:34:09,560 --> 00:34:14,320 It's a smorgasbord of mining and militarisation. 510 00:34:14,360 --> 00:34:17,880 There are bullet holes everywhere. It's actually seen a lot of action, 511 00:34:17,920 --> 00:34:20,000 this small, little island in the middle of nowhere. 512 00:34:26,560 --> 00:34:29,600 In eastern england, on the Suffolk coastline, 513 00:34:29,640 --> 00:34:32,760 are a string of abandoned buildings, 514 00:34:32,800 --> 00:34:38,280 strange mounts and intriguing pagoda - like structures. 515 00:34:40,760 --> 00:34:44,240 It's incredibly isolated. 516 00:34:44,280 --> 00:34:47,040 It's bleak. It's cut off from the mainland by a river, 517 00:34:47,080 --> 00:34:50,800 but yet there are these strange mounds and structures on it. 518 00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:57,480 The interiors of the dilapidated buildings are equally mystifying. 519 00:35:00,840 --> 00:35:05,480 Inside, the buildings have an abandoned quasi - industrial feel. 520 00:35:05,520 --> 00:35:07,496 There are elements of metal and machinery still there, 521 00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:10,040 but long disused. 522 00:35:10,080 --> 00:35:13,280 Pretty well all the work that was carried out here was secret, 523 00:35:13,320 --> 00:35:16,120 ultimately top secret. 524 00:35:16,960 --> 00:35:20,040 You are still warned to this day, 525 00:35:20,080 --> 00:35:25,240 that you mustn't tread incorrectly or you could be blown sky-high. 526 00:35:26,760 --> 00:35:29,240 What was the purpose of these battered buildings 527 00:35:29,280 --> 00:35:34,120 and strange Asian-style pagodas? 528 00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:37,720 And why is this area still filled with danger? 529 00:35:40,120 --> 00:35:43,280 If you look at all these solidly - built buildings 530 00:35:43,320 --> 00:35:45,680 and you look at the terrible destruction 531 00:35:45,720 --> 00:35:47,560 that has clearly been wreaked on them, 532 00:35:47,600 --> 00:35:50,960 you have to ask, "what happened to these buildings?" 533 00:35:57,560 --> 00:36:00,840 The reasons can be found back in the tense years 534 00:36:00,880 --> 00:36:03,800 leading up to the start of world war I. 535 00:36:05,040 --> 00:36:10,200 In 1913, the British war department acquired this large area of land, 536 00:36:10,240 --> 00:36:12,080 near a small village in Suffolk, 537 00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:16,680 in order to develop the latest technology in warfare. 538 00:36:18,480 --> 00:36:20,240 This is a corner of england 539 00:36:20,280 --> 00:36:22,880 where the experimenters came to find out what happened 540 00:36:22,920 --> 00:36:25,840 when you dropped a bomb from a plane. 541 00:36:27,280 --> 00:36:32,120 In a lot of ways, this beach is where military aviation started. 542 00:36:34,320 --> 00:36:38,640 In short, the race was on to develop new areas of military science 543 00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:43,040 and this pioneering site was leading the way. 544 00:36:43,720 --> 00:36:47,400 It was called orford ness. 545 00:36:48,800 --> 00:36:52,120 In world war I, aerial warfare was completely new. 546 00:36:52,160 --> 00:36:54,080 People had to invent a new military science 547 00:36:54,120 --> 00:36:55,840 and to start with, it was very crude. 548 00:36:55,880 --> 00:36:58,520 It was simply a question of dropping bombs out of windows. 549 00:37:00,400 --> 00:37:03,720 We didn't know what happened to a bomb dropped from a plane, 550 00:37:03,760 --> 00:37:06,720 until the guys at orford ness watched it 551 00:37:06,760 --> 00:37:10,840 and measured it with their instruments. 552 00:37:13,720 --> 00:37:15,320 Over the years, 553 00:37:15,360 --> 00:37:19,600 orford ness established itself as a prime testing site, 554 00:37:19,640 --> 00:37:22,400 critical to britain's air forces. 555 00:37:25,440 --> 00:37:28,040 One of its greatest successes was achieved 556 00:37:28,080 --> 00:37:32,560 by one of its most illustrious names, Robert Watson watt, 557 00:37:32,600 --> 00:37:36,880 the brilliant Scottish pioneer in radio direction - finding 558 00:37:36,920 --> 00:37:38,960 and radar technology. 559 00:37:40,120 --> 00:37:43,640 It was at orford ness in the late 30s, 560 00:37:43,680 --> 00:37:48,480 that Watson watt carried out his ground - breaking work on radar - 561 00:37:48,520 --> 00:37:52,320 the system that served the country so well during the dark days 562 00:37:52,360 --> 00:37:55,200 of the battle of britain. 563 00:37:55,240 --> 00:37:57,480 After world war ii, however, 564 00:37:57,520 --> 00:38:03,680 a new era of World-Wide mistrust and paranoia began. 565 00:38:07,000 --> 00:38:08,600 During the second world war 566 00:38:08,640 --> 00:38:12,800 the UK and us had collaborated very closely on weapons development, 567 00:38:12,840 --> 00:38:17,200 but as the cold war emerged after 1945, the two parted company, 568 00:38:17,240 --> 00:38:18,720 fairly spectacularly, 569 00:38:18,760 --> 00:38:21,560 and britain was left alone to develop its own weapons, 570 00:38:21,600 --> 00:38:23,920 including nuclear weapons. 571 00:38:23,960 --> 00:38:30,680 The west goes into overdrive in developing nuclear weapons 572 00:38:30,720 --> 00:38:34,960 and 1949 - this is the height of the cold war. 573 00:38:36,400 --> 00:38:39,880 Britain was now engaged in a nuclear arms race 574 00:38:39,920 --> 00:38:42,800 and orford ness was transformed 575 00:38:42,840 --> 00:38:46,280 into the atomic weapons research establishment. 576 00:38:50,160 --> 00:38:54,560 You don't want an atomic bomb to go off 577 00:38:54,600 --> 00:38:57,760 between the factory and the air field. 578 00:38:57,800 --> 00:39:01,760 You don't want the atomic bomb to go off on the plane 579 00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:03,560 on the way to the target 580 00:39:03,600 --> 00:39:06,840 and you don't want the atomic bomb to go off 581 00:39:06,880 --> 00:39:09,880 at the wrong time after you drop it. 582 00:39:09,920 --> 00:39:14,320 All of those problems needed to be worked out with experimentation 583 00:39:14,360 --> 00:39:17,720 and that required an experimentation site. 584 00:39:21,040 --> 00:39:24,200 So what experiments took place here? 585 00:39:24,240 --> 00:39:27,520 The site's manager Grant lahorr, explains. 586 00:39:31,000 --> 00:39:34,480 The first test carried out here was on vibration, 587 00:39:34,520 --> 00:39:37,760 so they were trying to replicate the vibration in an aircraft 588 00:39:37,800 --> 00:39:39,600 or in a lorry on the road, 589 00:39:39,640 --> 00:39:42,080 or they were subjecting them to shock, 590 00:39:42,120 --> 00:39:46,840 or g-forces, or humidity, or temperature. 591 00:39:46,880 --> 00:39:52,200 Each laboratory was designed to test different components 592 00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:53,720 of nuclear bombs. 593 00:39:56,720 --> 00:40:02,320 So this is what was called the hard target or the high impact facility 594 00:40:02,360 --> 00:40:04,920 and this essentially is where they were 595 00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:08,600 rocket - propelling atomic bomb cases and nuclear bomb cases 596 00:40:08,640 --> 00:40:10,840 into very hard concrete wall, 597 00:40:10,880 --> 00:40:15,120 which was effectively replicating the impact of the weapon 598 00:40:15,160 --> 00:40:16,640 when it was dropped. 599 00:40:18,720 --> 00:40:21,320 Yet the two most intriguing facilities 600 00:40:21,360 --> 00:40:23,400 are at the furthest point. 601 00:40:23,440 --> 00:40:26,880 They are the distinctive pagodas. 602 00:40:29,640 --> 00:40:32,360 It's these highly unusual buildings 603 00:40:32,400 --> 00:40:35,920 that remain the area's most famous landmarks today. 604 00:40:37,720 --> 00:40:40,200 This looks like an ancient temple, 605 00:40:40,240 --> 00:40:43,680 it's got columns holding up a pyramid, 606 00:40:43,720 --> 00:40:46,840 it's got arcane markings on the walls, 607 00:40:46,880 --> 00:40:50,400 these strange cruciform brackets. 608 00:40:52,280 --> 00:40:55,920 The work carried out here during the cold war era 609 00:40:55,960 --> 00:40:59,040 was shrouded in secrecy. 610 00:41:00,920 --> 00:41:04,520 During that period from the late 50s into the 1960s, 611 00:41:04,560 --> 00:41:07,720 the most paranoid period, probably, of the cold war. 612 00:41:07,760 --> 00:41:10,480 Everything really was extremely secret 613 00:41:10,520 --> 00:41:14,760 and it appears as if the site was constantly being monitored 614 00:41:14,800 --> 00:41:18,560 and surveyed and photographed by the Soviet union 615 00:41:18,600 --> 00:41:23,520 and so, everything around it was cloaked in secrecy. 616 00:41:23,560 --> 00:41:27,760 The architecture of the buildings is highly unusual, 617 00:41:27,800 --> 00:41:29,120 but very specific. 618 00:41:29,160 --> 00:41:33,440 They were created explicitly for the purpose of understanding 619 00:41:33,480 --> 00:41:38,200 the behaviour of weaponry and explosions. 620 00:41:38,240 --> 00:41:44,360 This is a place designed so that if the pillars are blown up, 621 00:41:44,400 --> 00:41:46,520 the roof drops down 622 00:41:46,560 --> 00:41:51,200 and clamps all of the explosion and debris down into the ground. 623 00:41:53,120 --> 00:41:56,000 The research conducted at orford ness 624 00:41:56,040 --> 00:41:58,920 remains largely secret to this day. 625 00:41:58,960 --> 00:42:00,760 Ironically, 626 00:42:00,800 --> 00:42:04,640 it was the success of the site that contributed to its downfall. 627 00:42:04,680 --> 00:42:08,880 The us were so impressed by its work, 628 00:42:08,920 --> 00:42:11,680 it re-established its old relationship with britain 629 00:42:11,720 --> 00:42:15,480 to help advance both nations' weapons programmes. 630 00:42:17,120 --> 00:42:21,000 This facility that concentrates 631 00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:24,400 on britain's separate nuclear development, 632 00:42:24,440 --> 00:42:27,960 is really no longer needed because, essentially, 633 00:42:28,000 --> 00:42:32,040 the British work together with the Americans on nuclear weapons, 634 00:42:32,080 --> 00:42:35,200 which is how it works today. 635 00:42:35,240 --> 00:42:39,960 Orford ness was finally abandoned in 1987. 636 00:42:44,920 --> 00:42:49,400 Today, the site is maintained by the British national trust 637 00:42:49,440 --> 00:42:51,840 as a peaceful nature reserve. 638 00:42:54,480 --> 00:42:58,520 But its past has left a dangerous legacy. 639 00:43:00,280 --> 00:43:04,200 After so many decades of weapons testing at that site, 640 00:43:04,240 --> 00:43:06,560 it's simply not possibly to guarantee 641 00:43:06,600 --> 00:43:08,520 that all devices have been found. 642 00:43:09,960 --> 00:43:16,360 It is essentially impossible to ever clean it out. 643 00:43:29,920 --> 00:43:31,840 Now they lie abandoned, 644 00:43:31,880 --> 00:43:36,440 but once, they were at the cutting edge of engineering. 645 00:43:36,480 --> 00:43:41,200 There are echoes from history in these decaying structures. 646 00:43:41,240 --> 00:43:44,040 They remind us of terror and war, 647 00:43:44,080 --> 00:43:48,960 but also of great innovation and human endeavour. 648 00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:52,000 Captioned by ai-media ai-media. TV 54848

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