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A castle - like building
saved from destruction
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00:00:04,520 --> 00:00:06,680
by a remarkable
Hollywood connection.
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00:00:06,720 --> 00:00:10,560
The same day that the wrecking
balls came to tear this place down,
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00:00:10,600 --> 00:00:14,320
was the same day that the
filming company showed up.
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00:00:14,360 --> 00:00:16,080
Vast monolithic structures
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00:00:16,120 --> 00:00:20,360
that dominate a tiny
island with a dark past.
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00:00:20,400 --> 00:00:26,040
What are these things doing in
this otherwise pristine landscape?
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A mysterious island on
the edge of the baltic sea,
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where strange things happen.
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All the structures that exist
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are riddled with bullet holes
and signs of explosions,
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00:00:37,160 --> 00:00:40,120
it's like you are walking
through a war zone.
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00:00:40,160 --> 00:00:43,840
Weird battered constructions
in a dangerous place
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00:00:43,880 --> 00:00:46,040
on the coast of england.
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00:00:48,280 --> 00:00:51,400
Pretty much all the works that
were carried out here were secret.
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Ultimately top secret.
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Once they were some of the most
advanced structures on the planet,
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at the cutting edge of
design and construction.
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Today they stand abandoned,
contaminated and sometimes deadly.
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But who built them and how
and why were they abandoned?
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In the middle of the
state of Ohio in the usa,
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just to the north of
the city of Mansfield,
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stands an ornate
impressive building.
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From the outside it looks
like some kind of palace
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or even a castle.
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It appears to be the kind of
structure that you would create
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00:02:02,520 --> 00:02:06,280
that would have a lasting impression
on anyone who set eyes on it.
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When you see this building,
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you know it was built
for something important.
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00:02:13,720 --> 00:02:16,520
And clearly whoever
built it meant it to last.
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The building is vast and grand
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with very detailed
and fancy architecture,
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it's definitely a
statement piece.
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It's built with this
massive, massive stone,
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so clearly it's not a
very inviting place.
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It kind of gives
you the shivers,
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it's sort of like
a haunted house
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and it definitely gives
you the impression
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that something bad
may have happened here.
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00:02:47,960 --> 00:02:51,520
Yet its forbidding appearance
is the only real clue
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00:02:51,560 --> 00:02:54,720
about what actually went
on inside the building.
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That is a dark, brutal
and controversial story.
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00:03:03,200 --> 00:03:07,800
What it originally set out
to do and what it ended up -
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00:03:07,840 --> 00:03:10,480
those bookends
couldn't be further apart.
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00:03:12,280 --> 00:03:16,680
This was to be a place of
spiritual regeneration and rebirth,
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it's about salvation, this
is a righteous building.
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You have to imagine that
those who conceived it,
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had no idea what a horror story
of a legacy they had spawned.
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00:03:33,040 --> 00:03:37,840
So why go to such lengths to build
such a dramatic - looking structure?
50
00:03:37,880 --> 00:03:41,040
What was it used for?
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00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:43,640
And why was it abandoned?
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00:03:47,800 --> 00:03:49,960
The origin of the
building's story
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stretch back as far as
the late 19th century.
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It was built in the mid-1880s,
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and it was intended to be a
beacon of hope for the state.
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00:04:03,200 --> 00:04:06,360
This site at Mansfield
was chosen in 1885,
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for a very special reason
and a very particular project.
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00:04:10,080 --> 00:04:13,400
It was one that was going
to be liberal and progressive,
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00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:17,320
they wanted to take young
offenders and rehabilitate
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00:04:17,360 --> 00:04:20,480
and re-educate them in the
most positive way possible.
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It was a reformatory,
so the notion was -
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you weren't just
punishing people,
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you were helping them learn
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00:04:27,840 --> 00:04:29,840
and then you would
release them out in the world
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and they would
commit crimes no more.
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This is the Ohio
state reformatory.
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Although construction began in
1886, it wasn't until September 1896,
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that the first 150 young
offenders were brought here
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to begin their rehabilitation.
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They started housing
prisoners in the complex
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before it was even finished,
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and the prisoners
themselves did a lot of the work
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00:05:02,080 --> 00:05:04,000
to complete the building,
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00:05:04,040 --> 00:05:05,920
including building
the sewer system.
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00:05:10,600 --> 00:05:12,240
Funding delays
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00:05:12,280 --> 00:05:17,880
meant that the reformatory was
not finally completed until 1910.
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While the facility at first
had a progressive agenda,
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the reformist zeal
was soon replaced
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00:05:24,560 --> 00:05:27,800
by a more brutal
approach to life inside.
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The place had taken a
completely different direction.
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00:05:38,160 --> 00:05:42,400
This was now a place
not of rehabilitation,
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but a place of incarceration,
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where you would lock up the
baddies and throw away the key.
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00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:52,720
This wing is proof
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of the very different direction
the reformatory eventually took.
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As expert Ron puff explains.
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We are currently in
the west cell block.
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00:06:04,320 --> 00:06:07,080
The west cell block was a
housing unit for your inmates.
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00:06:07,120 --> 00:06:10,560
This is five tiers,
originally 350 cells,
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00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:12,400
meant for one inmate to a cell,
91
00:06:12,440 --> 00:06:14,600
ended up from the very
beginning with two inmates,
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so we housed 700 inmates here.
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00:06:16,120 --> 00:06:18,520
It wasn't so bad
early on living here,
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now in later years they could be
in their cells 20, 22 hours a day.
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00:06:25,560 --> 00:06:27,720
Can you imagine being there,
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00:06:27,760 --> 00:06:31,840
walking through those
corridors into your caged cell
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00:06:31,880 --> 00:06:36,160
and hearing the sound of the door
slammed and locked behind you?
98
00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:41,440
Then the riotous
sounds of other inmates.
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00:06:41,480 --> 00:06:44,280
It must have been a
terrifying existence.
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But the rising crime rate meant
that more and more prisoners
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00:06:49,200 --> 00:06:52,800
were arriving at the
Ohio state reformatory.
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00:06:52,840 --> 00:06:57,840
Soon, juvenile inmates were
being kept apart from adult prisoners.
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00:06:57,880 --> 00:07:01,720
The prison's aims and
purpose were changing fast.
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00:07:01,760 --> 00:07:05,720
So fast, the juveniles
were forced to leave.
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00:07:09,440 --> 00:07:12,640
So they keep this
as an adult facility
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00:07:12,680 --> 00:07:15,640
and all those juveniles have to
go to another facility altogether.
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00:07:15,680 --> 00:07:19,560
Now you have got a prison full
of space, what do you do with it?
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00:07:21,480 --> 00:07:22,720
In wider society,
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00:07:22,760 --> 00:07:24,760
ever more people
were being convicted
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of increasingly violent crimes.
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00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:31,880
Prisons across the country were
becoming overfilled with inmates,
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00:07:31,920 --> 00:07:34,240
so Mansfield became
just another prison,
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in fact, it became one
of the hardest prisons,
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the worst of the worst,
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with some of the most violent
offenders from around the country
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being kept there.
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00:07:44,520 --> 00:07:49,360
Ohio state reformatory certainly
had its share of notorious inmates.
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00:07:49,400 --> 00:07:53,040
One was the infamous
George 'bugs' moran,
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who was part of the
John Dillinger crime gang.
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00:07:56,800 --> 00:07:58,560
Others included
William Sidney Porter,
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00:07:58,600 --> 00:08:00,880
better known as o. Henry,
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00:08:00,920 --> 00:08:02,880
the short story writer,
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00:08:02,920 --> 00:08:05,680
and Sam Shepherd,
whose conviction in 1954,
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00:08:05,720 --> 00:08:09,880
for murdering his wife, attracted
national media coverage.
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00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:16,480
As inmate numbers
continued to rise,
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life in the prison became even
more harsh and fraught with danger.
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00:08:20,880 --> 00:08:23,880
Living day - to - day
was a perilous business
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00:08:23,920 --> 00:08:26,800
as prison discipline broke down.
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00:08:29,400 --> 00:08:33,880
Ohio state eventually became
a maximum security facility.
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00:08:37,320 --> 00:08:41,600
Violence was part
of everyday life.
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You could be beat up in a
fight, you could be stabbed,
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you could be mugged, you
could be thrown off a high walkway.
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I mean the place was such,
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that you were in fear of
your life each and every day.
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00:08:55,200 --> 00:08:58,600
Inmates were told when you
came here, make yourself a weapon
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00:08:58,640 --> 00:09:01,640
and hide it in the bed, so
if everything goes crazy,
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00:09:01,680 --> 00:09:03,680
you at least know where
your shank, or your rock
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00:09:03,720 --> 00:09:06,600
or whatever it
is, you placed it,
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00:09:06,640 --> 00:09:08,640
so you can be safe.
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00:09:08,680 --> 00:09:10,600
And they feared
coming in the gates here.
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One of the most frightening
places in which to find yourself,
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00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:19,880
was at the end of
these dark corridors.
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00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:21,840
It was somewhere
no-one wanted to be.
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00:09:25,520 --> 00:09:26,880
For the worst offenders
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00:09:26,920 --> 00:09:29,016
there was solitary confinement
here for the reformatory.
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When you came in
there was punishment,
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so the whole time you were in
here, you weren't supposed to talk.
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00:09:35,000 --> 00:09:37,600
They might keep the
lights on 24 hours a day,
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00:09:37,640 --> 00:09:39,216
they might keep the
lights off 24 hours a day,
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00:09:39,240 --> 00:09:40,880
there was no reading.
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00:09:40,920 --> 00:09:42,416
Your meal schedule
would be moved around,
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so you never knew
what time it was,
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and so early on they came
in here with no clothes,
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they were naked, they had a
bucket that was their commode,
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they slept on the cement floor.
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In a crowded prison, blighted by
almost daily violence and rioting,
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it was no surprise that
'the hole', as it was known,
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was always crammed with inmates.
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00:10:10,040 --> 00:10:12,920
In one case they had a riot
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and they wound up putting in
120 prisoners down in the hole
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at the same time for 30 days.
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In this instance they
actually found a body
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that had been murdered and
stuffed into a mattress for several days
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before anyone
realised he was dead.
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The terrible violence continued
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00:10:31,880 --> 00:10:37,040
until the inmates
themselves finally took action.
167
00:10:39,320 --> 00:10:41,520
Inmates finally took
matters into their own hands
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and they filed a lawsuit
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that the facility was violating
their constitutional rights
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by dehumanising them.
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In the end the problems of
the site were so widespread
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that it was all too much, and
the facility was abandoned.
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That was in 1990.
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During its 96 - year history,
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some 150,000 inmates had walked
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00:11:06,120 --> 00:11:08,320
through Ohio state
reformatory's doors,
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more than 200 of them had
died while they were inside.
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00:11:13,120 --> 00:11:15,840
These days there are many
accounts of it being haunted,
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of there being paranormal
activity at the site,
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but that is hardly surprising
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when you think of
the degree of violence
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that the building had
seen for so many decades.
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00:11:26,840 --> 00:11:30,120
Is the Ohio state
reformatory haunted?
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00:11:30,160 --> 00:11:33,840
And if you ask a number of our
staff members they will say yes,
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they will snap their finger just
like that, many things happen here.
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Why? I will let
you figure it out.
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Today this grand facility has
become a major tourist attraction,
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thanks in no small part
to a strange twist of fate.
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It was scheduled for demolition,
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00:12:04,240 --> 00:12:05,720
but just before that,
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a film crew came
to shoot a movie
192
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that of course has
become world-famous,
193
00:12:10,200 --> 00:12:12,840
'the Shawshank redemption'.
194
00:12:12,880 --> 00:12:17,600
The same day that the wrecking
balls came to tear this place down,
195
00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:20,880
was the same day that the
filming company showed up.
196
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The 'Shawshank redemption'
was the redemption of this prison.
197
00:12:31,960 --> 00:12:35,440
Just off the coast of
normandy in France,
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00:12:35,480 --> 00:12:37,560
is the small island of Guernsey.
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00:12:37,600 --> 00:12:42,160
Along its coastline are
bizarre - looking constructions.
200
00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:50,920
In the otherwise quiet and
picturesque surroundings,
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you start to discover
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00:12:52,560 --> 00:12:59,400
a huge amount of these
concrete imposing structures.
203
00:12:59,440 --> 00:13:04,280
The way that these concrete
monoliths are stepped,
204
00:13:04,320 --> 00:13:09,200
they look a bit like the
heads off of easter island.
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00:13:10,880 --> 00:13:15,360
It's like star wars
has been filmed there.
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00:13:15,400 --> 00:13:19,120
These really strange
monolithic type constructions,
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00:13:19,160 --> 00:13:21,000
poking out of the ground.
208
00:13:22,560 --> 00:13:28,360
Further inland, a cavernous concrete
bowl lies sunken into the ground.
209
00:13:29,920 --> 00:13:33,880
Its huge, it's like
an amphitheatre.
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00:13:33,920 --> 00:13:39,480
I don't think the locals would have
ever envisaged structures like this
211
00:13:39,520 --> 00:13:41,560
being built on the island.
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00:13:44,200 --> 00:13:49,840
Beneath this great mass of
concrete lurk other hidden features.
213
00:13:52,320 --> 00:13:57,600
There is a railway track that
starts to lead you into a tunnel
214
00:13:57,640 --> 00:14:03,120
and you follow that tunnel inside
you start going underground.
215
00:14:05,040 --> 00:14:06,040
When you get closer,
216
00:14:06,080 --> 00:14:07,776
you see that there is
actually a lot more to them.
217
00:14:07,800 --> 00:14:12,920
There are networks and you
start to see old paraphernalia.
218
00:14:12,960 --> 00:14:16,240
In the maze of dark rooms,
219
00:14:16,280 --> 00:14:20,240
mysterious symbols and
writings can still be seen.
220
00:14:20,280 --> 00:14:24,240
But the words are not in English,
they are written in German.
221
00:14:24,280 --> 00:14:26,240
And these are the first hints
222
00:14:26,280 --> 00:14:32,240
of the terrible fate that befell
those who once occupied the rooms.
223
00:14:34,560 --> 00:14:37,280
Things started to
get really tough.
224
00:14:39,040 --> 00:14:43,080
In fact, many of
them began to starve.
225
00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:50,400
Who was it that built
these gigantic structures?
226
00:14:50,440 --> 00:14:53,840
And why were they
finally abandoned?
227
00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:02,560
The roots of the
mystery can be found
228
00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:06,200
in the early years
of world war 2.
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00:15:07,760 --> 00:15:12,200
By June 1940, Hitler's
forces had defeated France
230
00:15:12,240 --> 00:15:16,880
and were turning their attention
to their next target, Great Britain.
231
00:15:19,280 --> 00:15:22,600
A mere 20 miles away,
across the English channel,
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00:15:22,640 --> 00:15:25,320
the prize was
tantalisingly close,
233
00:15:26,880 --> 00:15:31,000
but a small piece of British
territory lay even closer -
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00:15:31,040 --> 00:15:32,520
the channel islands.
235
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,400
Although the channel
islands are British territory,
236
00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:41,160
they are actually much
closer to the coast of France
237
00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:46,000
and Hitler viewed them
as strategically important.
238
00:15:46,040 --> 00:15:50,440
If you want to go from
britain and invade France,
239
00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:55,320
the channel islands
are a great first step.
240
00:15:55,360 --> 00:15:57,760
They get you most
of the way there,
241
00:15:57,800 --> 00:16:01,440
and the Nazis could
not allow the British
242
00:16:01,480 --> 00:16:07,600
to continue to control those
islands right on the edge of France.
243
00:16:07,640 --> 00:16:11,360
On the 28th of June 1940,
244
00:16:11,400 --> 00:16:15,520
luftwaffe bombers came
swooping in over the islands.
245
00:16:17,320 --> 00:16:18,480
A tragedy within the war,
246
00:16:18,520 --> 00:16:20,160
was the fact that the Germans
247
00:16:20,200 --> 00:16:21,616
essentially bombed
the channel islands
248
00:16:21,640 --> 00:16:24,120
expecting there to be
quite a lot of resistance
249
00:16:24,160 --> 00:16:28,560
and they killed about 44 people
and they didn't need to do that.
250
00:16:28,600 --> 00:16:32,760
It was only a few days later
when the Germans actually arrived,
251
00:16:32,800 --> 00:16:37,120
they discovered that the islands
had been undefended the whole time.
252
00:16:37,160 --> 00:16:39,000
(Bell tolls)
253
00:16:41,480 --> 00:16:44,880
In 1940, britain
was standing alone
254
00:16:44,920 --> 00:16:48,560
against the power
of the third reich
255
00:16:48,600 --> 00:16:55,280
and Churchill was not sure he could
defend the island of Great Britain,
256
00:16:55,320 --> 00:16:58,920
never mind Guernsey and
Jersey, sark and alderney.
257
00:17:00,640 --> 00:17:05,320
As the German army stormed through
France during the summer of 1940,
258
00:17:05,360 --> 00:17:11,240
about a third of channel islanders,
some 30,000 people, were evacuated.
259
00:17:13,280 --> 00:17:15,800
The rest chose to remain,
260
00:17:15,840 --> 00:17:19,680
preferring to take their chances
when the inevitable invasion came.
261
00:17:21,240 --> 00:17:24,640
In late June, the German
flag was raised on Guernsey.
262
00:17:26,640 --> 00:17:30,760
On July 1st, Jersey surrendered.
263
00:17:30,800 --> 00:17:34,520
The German order for islands
to fly white flags over their houses
264
00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:39,240
was just a small taste
of what was to come.
265
00:17:39,280 --> 00:17:43,560
While Churchill decided to
leave the islands undefended,
266
00:17:43,600 --> 00:17:46,280
Hitler had other ideas.
267
00:17:46,320 --> 00:17:49,840
He desperately wanted them fortified
with the most impressive defences
268
00:17:49,880 --> 00:17:53,240
the third reich could create.
269
00:17:53,280 --> 00:17:58,960
Here on Guernsey,
this was part of the plan.
270
00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:02,000
The mighty mp3 tower.
271
00:18:06,440 --> 00:18:10,720
Local expert and
preservationist Paul bourgaize,
272
00:18:10,760 --> 00:18:15,440
explains how the tower
fitted into the Nazi plans.
273
00:18:17,640 --> 00:18:20,040
It was basically a
range-finding tower.
274
00:18:20,080 --> 00:18:21,800
It was one of five,
275
00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:24,720
and each level had
range-finding capabilities
276
00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:27,640
to obviously find and
observe the targets
277
00:18:27,680 --> 00:18:30,960
and send the data back
to the gun batteries inland.
278
00:18:32,600 --> 00:18:36,040
The Germans spent over a year
building their extensive network
279
00:18:36,080 --> 00:18:38,760
of defences on Guernsey.
280
00:18:42,680 --> 00:18:47,600
Located a few miles inland
from the mp3 range tower,
281
00:18:47,640 --> 00:18:52,360
this immense concrete bowl was to
be one of its most important features.
282
00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:57,360
But what was it to be used for?
283
00:18:59,800 --> 00:19:04,400
There is a clue in the rail
tracks that snake underground.
284
00:19:06,040 --> 00:19:10,240
This railway track was
used to bring the ammunition
285
00:19:10,280 --> 00:19:13,080
from the storage bunkers
286
00:19:13,120 --> 00:19:17,880
and they would be stored
in this large room here
287
00:19:17,920 --> 00:19:21,000
and these would be loaded
through this flush boot hatch
288
00:19:21,040 --> 00:19:22,520
and then stored in that room.
289
00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:29,120
More than 61,000 cubic
yards of concrete were used
290
00:19:29,160 --> 00:19:32,440
to build the bunker systems
that contained troop quarters,
291
00:19:32,480 --> 00:19:34,320
ammunition storage
292
00:19:34,360 --> 00:19:38,080
and electrical generators -
293
00:19:38,120 --> 00:19:43,440
all constructed to withstand
concerted sustained firepower.
294
00:19:43,480 --> 00:19:45,600
Deep in the darkness,
295
00:19:45,640 --> 00:19:48,160
the slogans on the walls
provide chilling proof
296
00:19:48,200 --> 00:19:51,080
of the German army's intentions.
297
00:19:51,120 --> 00:19:53,960
And of its supreme confidence.
298
00:19:56,280 --> 00:19:58,720
You can see on one side we
have got a nice German eagle
299
00:19:58,760 --> 00:20:00,400
painted on the wall,
300
00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:06,960
and over on this side the
emblem of the naval engineers
301
00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:08,840
and this cog,
302
00:20:08,880 --> 00:20:12,800
and they are marching towards
england, that was the motto.
303
00:20:14,480 --> 00:20:16,840
"Wir fahren nach england."
304
00:20:16,880 --> 00:20:18,080
We are going to england,
305
00:20:18,120 --> 00:20:21,800
the Germans intended
to invade england.
306
00:20:21,840 --> 00:20:27,320
Why would they be
painting that on a bunker?
307
00:20:27,360 --> 00:20:29,320
The Germans great confidence
308
00:20:29,360 --> 00:20:33,760
may have been helped by what
was housed in this huge concrete bowl.
309
00:20:35,600 --> 00:20:38,760
Formidable guns,
310
00:20:38,800 --> 00:20:43,160
in a bunker complex that
was called battery miras.
311
00:20:45,600 --> 00:20:48,080
They consisted of four
gunning placements
312
00:20:48,120 --> 00:20:52,880
with huge great big
guns disguised as houses.
313
00:20:52,920 --> 00:20:58,080
You can start to imagine the
size and the scale of these guns.
314
00:21:02,480 --> 00:21:04,320
Here we are.
315
00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:09,880
We can see one of the four huge
emplacements for the 30.5 cm gun.
316
00:21:09,920 --> 00:21:13,760
Mounted down that central position
where those studs are sticking up.
317
00:21:15,720 --> 00:21:18,360
Underneath the mount
is a naval depth charge
318
00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:21,040
and that could
have been detonated
319
00:21:21,080 --> 00:21:24,080
in the event that the
emplacement was captured
320
00:21:24,120 --> 00:21:26,760
and blow the gun
off its mountings.
321
00:21:30,560 --> 00:21:33,000
With a range of over 30 miles,
322
00:21:33,040 --> 00:21:36,040
the four guns were able to
protect the channel islands
323
00:21:36,080 --> 00:21:41,240
and reach almost all the
way to the normandy coast.
324
00:21:41,280 --> 00:21:45,520
The German fire power on
Guernsey was extraordinary.
325
00:21:45,560 --> 00:21:49,560
In total 17 coasted
artillery batteries
326
00:21:49,600 --> 00:21:56,680
and 175 anti-air craft guns
were placed on the island.
327
00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:01,360
But all of this came at a
huge cost in resources.
328
00:22:03,560 --> 00:22:05,240
This was part of
the Atlantic wall,
329
00:22:05,280 --> 00:22:08,280
which stretched all the way
from Norway down to Spain
330
00:22:08,320 --> 00:22:11,000
and it is estimated that
some 8% of all of the concrete
331
00:22:11,040 --> 00:22:12,760
along all of those constructions
332
00:22:12,800 --> 00:22:15,720
was just housed in
the channel islands.
333
00:22:15,760 --> 00:22:19,560
In fact, they fortified the
channel islands so much
334
00:22:19,600 --> 00:22:22,200
that there were more
guns installed here
335
00:22:22,240 --> 00:22:28,000
than there were on the neighbouring
600 miles of normandy coast line.
336
00:22:28,040 --> 00:22:33,080
German officers who were
sceptical about the strategic
337
00:22:33,120 --> 00:22:36,640
and operational value
of the channel islands,
338
00:22:36,680 --> 00:22:41,520
referred to the dense
resource - intensive fortification,
339
00:22:41,560 --> 00:22:45,000
as 'Hitler's island madness.'
340
00:22:46,880 --> 00:22:48,560
with so much effort,
341
00:22:48,600 --> 00:22:51,800
time and resources
committed to building it,
342
00:22:51,840 --> 00:22:55,680
and with its frequent appearance
in German propaganda,
343
00:22:55,720 --> 00:22:58,720
what finally became
of battery miras?
344
00:23:00,400 --> 00:23:06,040
The beginning of the end
came on June 6th, 1944.
345
00:23:06,080 --> 00:23:11,080
The famous date of the
allied invasion of France.
346
00:23:13,160 --> 00:23:15,320
After the d-day landings,
347
00:23:15,360 --> 00:23:19,800
the German soldiers based in
the channel islands became cut off
348
00:23:19,840 --> 00:23:23,120
and had no access to supplies.
349
00:23:24,680 --> 00:23:27,640
There were red cross packages
delivered onto the islands,
350
00:23:27,680 --> 00:23:30,080
but they were for the
locals only, for the British,
351
00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:32,680
the Germans had to go without.
352
00:23:34,640 --> 00:23:36,960
The troops themselves that
weren't allowed those rations,
353
00:23:37,000 --> 00:23:38,840
were really starving.
354
00:23:38,880 --> 00:23:42,880
They were trying to
catch birds, you know,
355
00:23:42,920 --> 00:23:44,160
eating limpets off the beach,
356
00:23:44,200 --> 00:23:47,880
anything, you know, seaweed
and some things, you know,
357
00:23:47,920 --> 00:23:49,120
even made themselves sick,
358
00:23:49,160 --> 00:23:51,416
eating things that they really
shouldn't have been eating,
359
00:23:51,440 --> 00:23:53,200
just to stay alive.
360
00:23:54,760 --> 00:23:57,120
After almost a year
of near - starvation,
361
00:23:57,160 --> 00:24:00,520
the German Garrison on
Guernsey finally surrendered
362
00:24:00,560 --> 00:24:03,400
on may 9th, 1945.
363
00:24:05,880 --> 00:24:08,560
Battery miras fell silent.
364
00:24:08,600 --> 00:24:12,040
And its colossal guns
were sold off for scrap.
365
00:24:21,640 --> 00:24:25,680
Today these eerie concrete
symbols of the third reich
366
00:24:25,720 --> 00:24:28,400
still dominate the
Guernsey skyline.
367
00:24:28,440 --> 00:24:31,280
A reminder of a time
when these islands became
368
00:24:31,320 --> 00:24:34,840
one of the most
fortified places on earth.
369
00:24:38,640 --> 00:24:42,480
Looking at these massive
concrete fortifications,
370
00:24:42,520 --> 00:24:45,320
it reminds us that even
tiny corners of Europe
371
00:24:45,360 --> 00:24:48,040
that we barely even heard of,
372
00:24:48,080 --> 00:24:50,440
are really important
to some people,
373
00:24:50,480 --> 00:24:54,960
and to their lives as they lived
through the second world war.
374
00:24:56,520 --> 00:24:58,960
It's a part of history
that is easily forgotten,
375
00:24:59,000 --> 00:25:03,240
that part of britain was occupied,
but important to remember.
376
00:25:10,480 --> 00:25:11,560
In southern Finland,
377
00:25:11,600 --> 00:25:13,680
on the edge of the baltic sea,
378
00:25:13,720 --> 00:25:18,160
is what's known locally
as the mysterious island.
379
00:25:25,360 --> 00:25:28,280
From a distance it looks
like other islands in the region.
380
00:25:30,120 --> 00:25:31,680
When you get closer,
381
00:25:31,720 --> 00:25:33,760
you can see there is
something different about it.
382
00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:37,320
The island itself has
a kind of darkness,
383
00:25:37,360 --> 00:25:41,320
everything is a
little bit spooky,
384
00:25:41,360 --> 00:25:45,000
you wouldn't necessarily want to
find yourself on the island alone.
385
00:25:48,040 --> 00:25:53,040
Mysteriously, ships compasses
don't operate properly here.
386
00:25:53,080 --> 00:25:55,120
The beaches are stained black,
387
00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:59,240
and the more you look,
the stranger things get.
388
00:26:01,600 --> 00:26:06,040
You can spot what looks like
bunkers hidden along the shoreline,
389
00:26:06,080 --> 00:26:12,120
ruins of old pipelines, piles of
broken up rock and concrete.
390
00:26:12,160 --> 00:26:14,240
This isn't an ordinary island.
391
00:26:15,920 --> 00:26:18,600
The island itself
is also riddled
392
00:26:18,640 --> 00:26:21,800
with some ancient
history about tales of,
393
00:26:21,840 --> 00:26:25,000
you know, compasses
not working quite correctly.
394
00:26:25,040 --> 00:26:27,560
There has been a whole
history of shipwrecks.
395
00:26:30,600 --> 00:26:35,120
The wreckage and debris
are not confined to the waters.
396
00:26:35,160 --> 00:26:39,520
On land too, there
are strange ruins.
397
00:26:39,560 --> 00:26:43,120
All the structures that exist
are riddled with bullet holes
398
00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:47,120
and signs of explosions, it's like
you are walking through a war zone.
399
00:26:47,160 --> 00:26:51,240
What is the problem with
this place, why is it so odd?
400
00:26:56,400 --> 00:26:58,520
The answers to
this peculiar puzzle
401
00:26:58,560 --> 00:27:01,840
can be found in the
early 19th century.
402
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:08,160
By 1809, Finland had been
incorporated into the Russian empire
403
00:27:08,200 --> 00:27:12,720
and this was a
strategically vital site.
404
00:27:14,920 --> 00:27:17,200
Jussaro island.
405
00:27:21,120 --> 00:27:24,400
The southern part of Finland
is very important to Russia,
406
00:27:24,440 --> 00:27:28,760
because that is the gate to
the capital at st Petersburg
407
00:27:28,800 --> 00:27:29,960
and so,
408
00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:31,920
controlling the Gulf of Finland
409
00:27:31,960 --> 00:27:36,760
is an absolute defence
requirement for Russia.
410
00:27:38,320 --> 00:27:41,480
It sits in such a strategic
location in the baltic sea,
411
00:27:41,520 --> 00:27:43,520
anybody trying
to head to Helsinki
412
00:27:43,560 --> 00:27:46,040
or the port of st
Petersburg in Russia,
413
00:27:46,080 --> 00:27:48,000
has to sail right
by that island.
414
00:27:48,040 --> 00:27:51,080
That makes it very valuable
from a military perspective.
415
00:27:54,080 --> 00:27:59,440
Vital it may have been, but it
was also extremely dangerous.
416
00:27:59,480 --> 00:28:03,040
In the glacial periods it was
covered under kilometres of ice,
417
00:28:03,080 --> 00:28:04,440
it was pushed down.
418
00:28:04,480 --> 00:28:05,720
Since the ice has gone,
419
00:28:05,760 --> 00:28:09,600
the area is actually slowly
lifting, about 4mm a year.
420
00:28:11,600 --> 00:28:15,920
So you might sail past a place
that 50 years ago was free sailing
421
00:28:15,960 --> 00:28:21,640
and now there is a rocky island
emerging right in your path.
422
00:28:23,200 --> 00:28:24,640
Under Russian rule,
423
00:28:24,680 --> 00:28:26,480
a pilot station was set up here
424
00:28:26,520 --> 00:28:29,560
to help ships navigate
these precarious waters
425
00:28:29,600 --> 00:28:33,120
through to st Petersburg.
426
00:28:33,160 --> 00:28:35,680
But why did the remnants
of an extensive complex
427
00:28:35,720 --> 00:28:40,360
litter this remote outpost?
428
00:28:40,400 --> 00:28:45,000
It was an underground discovery
that first interested the Russian state.
429
00:28:47,040 --> 00:28:49,200
It turns out to have
been an amazing find,
430
00:28:49,240 --> 00:28:53,400
because it was the largest
undersea iron ore reserve in Finland.
431
00:28:55,280 --> 00:28:58,480
That solved a
centuries-old mystery.
432
00:28:58,520 --> 00:29:02,280
It's why ships compasses
work so badly here.
433
00:29:03,600 --> 00:29:04,640
Compasses work
434
00:29:04,680 --> 00:29:07,800
by being drawn to the
magnetic field of the north pole,
435
00:29:07,840 --> 00:29:10,960
but the iron ore in
this particular region
436
00:29:11,000 --> 00:29:13,360
had its own magnetic field
437
00:29:13,400 --> 00:29:16,680
and compasses were more
drawn to that than the north pole.
438
00:29:18,840 --> 00:29:22,600
In the 1840s, Russian prisoners
were sent to the islands mine
439
00:29:22,640 --> 00:29:26,320
and forced to excavate
the valuable metal ore.
440
00:29:28,840 --> 00:29:34,080
The miners were down there with
long metal drills and sledge hammers,
441
00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:38,160
banging away, dislodging
the rock face bit by bit.
442
00:29:40,040 --> 00:29:41,960
And the conditions
were so hellish,
443
00:29:42,000 --> 00:29:44,720
some of the prisoners reported
they would rather be sent
444
00:29:44,760 --> 00:29:46,960
to labour camps in Siberia.
445
00:29:48,920 --> 00:29:54,160
By the time Finland declared
independence from Russia in 1917,
446
00:29:54,200 --> 00:29:56,560
mining on the
island had stopped.
447
00:29:56,600 --> 00:29:59,480
During the following decades,
448
00:29:59,520 --> 00:30:02,320
the young nation's relationship
with its communist neighbour
449
00:30:02,360 --> 00:30:04,920
was marked by tension and war.
450
00:30:06,600 --> 00:30:10,840
In 1939, the infamous
winter war broke out.
451
00:30:10,880 --> 00:30:13,200
A conflict that was
fought in temperatures
452
00:30:13,240 --> 00:30:17,480
as low as minus 43 celsius.
453
00:30:17,520 --> 00:30:20,400
The better - equipped fins were
able to inflict huge casualties
454
00:30:20,440 --> 00:30:21,720
on the Soviet troops,
455
00:30:21,760 --> 00:30:27,160
using the deep snow, dense
forests and long hours of darkness
456
00:30:27,200 --> 00:30:29,200
to maximum advantage.
457
00:30:29,240 --> 00:30:33,200
The war was ended by the
signing of the Moscow peace treaty
458
00:30:33,240 --> 00:30:34,520
in march 1940,
459
00:30:34,560 --> 00:30:38,760
and although the Finns were
forced to cede territory to the Soviets,
460
00:30:38,800 --> 00:30:42,280
the red army's reputation
was badly damaged.
461
00:30:42,320 --> 00:30:45,680
Its poor performance is
said to have convinced Hitler
462
00:30:45,720 --> 00:30:48,400
to invade Russia
the following year.
463
00:30:50,760 --> 00:30:52,520
By the 1950s, however,
464
00:30:52,560 --> 00:30:55,360
Finland had settled
into its uneasy existence
465
00:30:55,400 --> 00:30:59,760
between the west
and the Soviet union.
466
00:31:00,880 --> 00:31:06,120
In those tense political times,
mining at jussaro began again.
467
00:31:07,600 --> 00:31:09,840
Finland reopened the mines,
468
00:31:09,880 --> 00:31:11,440
and now they had
modern equipment
469
00:31:11,480 --> 00:31:15,040
and they could mine on a much
greater, more industrial scale.
470
00:31:18,560 --> 00:31:20,880
When mining
started back up again,
471
00:31:20,920 --> 00:31:23,440
they had to put in a
whole new infrastructure
472
00:31:23,480 --> 00:31:26,080
which included crushing plants,
473
00:31:26,120 --> 00:31:32,000
underwater railway lines, pipe
networks on land, deep tunnels...
474
00:31:32,040 --> 00:31:36,120
I mean, it became a
productive mining machine.
475
00:31:39,640 --> 00:31:44,160
Former resident Goran
wikstrom arrived in 1956
476
00:31:44,200 --> 00:31:46,720
as preparations for
modern mining operations
477
00:31:46,760 --> 00:31:48,480
were getting underway.
478
00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:54,120
The tunnelling went straight
out from here to the stone island.
479
00:31:54,160 --> 00:31:57,000
The tunnel went
straight out from there
480
00:31:57,040 --> 00:32:02,760
from the shaft above at a
depth of 550 ft, out there.
481
00:32:02,800 --> 00:32:04,440
There were mining tunnels -
482
00:32:04,480 --> 00:32:11,080
in total 1.8 miles of tunnels
all at a depth of nearly 600 ft.
483
00:32:13,320 --> 00:32:19,320
However, mining on the island
once again became unsustainable.
484
00:32:19,360 --> 00:32:23,320
Global iron prices
plummeted and so did profits.
485
00:32:23,360 --> 00:32:29,480
The operation was shut down and
the workers were simply sent packing.
486
00:32:32,240 --> 00:32:35,640
It was at Christmas in 1967,
487
00:32:35,680 --> 00:32:40,080
when the final decision was made
that everyone was to leave here.
488
00:32:40,120 --> 00:32:41,920
It was over, in other words.
489
00:32:41,960 --> 00:32:48,880
We just moved out and
then the destruction set in.
490
00:32:49,760 --> 00:32:54,560
But the debris and
destruction here is clear to see.
491
00:32:54,600 --> 00:32:58,760
Surely the damage was not caused
solely by nature and the elements?
492
00:33:00,240 --> 00:33:05,240
After the miners moved out,
the Finnish army moved in.
493
00:33:05,280 --> 00:33:08,840
The government realised this
location was just too strategic
494
00:33:08,880 --> 00:33:11,320
to leave unoccupied.
495
00:33:11,360 --> 00:33:13,480
The 60s, 70s and 80s, yes,
496
00:33:13,520 --> 00:33:17,040
there was a very genuine
threat from the Soviet union.
497
00:33:17,080 --> 00:33:18,840
They were pretty careful,
498
00:33:18,880 --> 00:33:22,840
pretty conciliatory to
Russia during that period,
499
00:33:22,880 --> 00:33:26,120
but a lot of the use of the
island was really for training
500
00:33:26,160 --> 00:33:27,760
and military exercises.
501
00:33:27,800 --> 00:33:34,560
It was a place where they could
fire weapons and drop bombs
502
00:33:34,600 --> 00:33:38,240
without any danger of
injuring the civilian population,
503
00:33:38,280 --> 00:33:39,960
because there was
no civilian population.
504
00:33:41,920 --> 00:33:43,960
The Russian invasion never came.
505
00:33:44,000 --> 00:33:49,360
In 2002, the armed forces
held their final shooting drill
506
00:33:49,400 --> 00:33:53,120
and the island was
abandoned once again.
507
00:33:59,880 --> 00:34:03,040
Today, the battered site
serves as a national park,
508
00:34:03,080 --> 00:34:07,280
with half the island
open to the public.
509
00:34:09,560 --> 00:34:14,320
It's a smorgasbord of
mining and militarisation.
510
00:34:14,360 --> 00:34:17,880
There are bullet holes everywhere.
It's actually seen a lot of action,
511
00:34:17,920 --> 00:34:20,000
this small, little island
in the middle of nowhere.
512
00:34:26,560 --> 00:34:29,600
In eastern england,
on the Suffolk coastline,
513
00:34:29,640 --> 00:34:32,760
are a string of
abandoned buildings,
514
00:34:32,800 --> 00:34:38,280
strange mounts and intriguing
pagoda - like structures.
515
00:34:40,760 --> 00:34:44,240
It's incredibly isolated.
516
00:34:44,280 --> 00:34:47,040
It's bleak. It's cut off from
the mainland by a river,
517
00:34:47,080 --> 00:34:50,800
but yet there are these strange
mounds and structures on it.
518
00:34:52,600 --> 00:34:57,480
The interiors of the dilapidated
buildings are equally mystifying.
519
00:35:00,840 --> 00:35:05,480
Inside, the buildings have an
abandoned quasi - industrial feel.
520
00:35:05,520 --> 00:35:07,496
There are elements of metal
and machinery still there,
521
00:35:07,520 --> 00:35:10,040
but long disused.
522
00:35:10,080 --> 00:35:13,280
Pretty well all the work that
was carried out here was secret,
523
00:35:13,320 --> 00:35:16,120
ultimately top secret.
524
00:35:16,960 --> 00:35:20,040
You are still
warned to this day,
525
00:35:20,080 --> 00:35:25,240
that you mustn't tread incorrectly
or you could be blown sky-high.
526
00:35:26,760 --> 00:35:29,240
What was the purpose
of these battered buildings
527
00:35:29,280 --> 00:35:34,120
and strange Asian-style pagodas?
528
00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:37,720
And why is this area
still filled with danger?
529
00:35:40,120 --> 00:35:43,280
If you look at all these
solidly - built buildings
530
00:35:43,320 --> 00:35:45,680
and you look at the
terrible destruction
531
00:35:45,720 --> 00:35:47,560
that has clearly been
wreaked on them,
532
00:35:47,600 --> 00:35:50,960
you have to ask, "what
happened to these buildings?"
533
00:35:57,560 --> 00:36:00,840
The reasons can be found
back in the tense years
534
00:36:00,880 --> 00:36:03,800
leading up to the
start of world war I.
535
00:36:05,040 --> 00:36:10,200
In 1913, the British war department
acquired this large area of land,
536
00:36:10,240 --> 00:36:12,080
near a small village in Suffolk,
537
00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:16,680
in order to develop the
latest technology in warfare.
538
00:36:18,480 --> 00:36:20,240
This is a corner of england
539
00:36:20,280 --> 00:36:22,880
where the experimenters
came to find out what happened
540
00:36:22,920 --> 00:36:25,840
when you dropped
a bomb from a plane.
541
00:36:27,280 --> 00:36:32,120
In a lot of ways, this beach is
where military aviation started.
542
00:36:34,320 --> 00:36:38,640
In short, the race was on to
develop new areas of military science
543
00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:43,040
and this pioneering
site was leading the way.
544
00:36:43,720 --> 00:36:47,400
It was called orford ness.
545
00:36:48,800 --> 00:36:52,120
In world war I, aerial
warfare was completely new.
546
00:36:52,160 --> 00:36:54,080
People had to invent
a new military science
547
00:36:54,120 --> 00:36:55,840
and to start with,
it was very crude.
548
00:36:55,880 --> 00:36:58,520
It was simply a question of
dropping bombs out of windows.
549
00:37:00,400 --> 00:37:03,720
We didn't know what happened
to a bomb dropped from a plane,
550
00:37:03,760 --> 00:37:06,720
until the guys at
orford ness watched it
551
00:37:06,760 --> 00:37:10,840
and measured it
with their instruments.
552
00:37:13,720 --> 00:37:15,320
Over the years,
553
00:37:15,360 --> 00:37:19,600
orford ness established
itself as a prime testing site,
554
00:37:19,640 --> 00:37:22,400
critical to
britain's air forces.
555
00:37:25,440 --> 00:37:28,040
One of its greatest
successes was achieved
556
00:37:28,080 --> 00:37:32,560
by one of its most illustrious
names, Robert Watson watt,
557
00:37:32,600 --> 00:37:36,880
the brilliant Scottish pioneer
in radio direction - finding
558
00:37:36,920 --> 00:37:38,960
and radar technology.
559
00:37:40,120 --> 00:37:43,640
It was at orford
ness in the late 30s,
560
00:37:43,680 --> 00:37:48,480
that Watson watt carried out his
ground - breaking work on radar -
561
00:37:48,520 --> 00:37:52,320
the system that served the
country so well during the dark days
562
00:37:52,360 --> 00:37:55,200
of the battle of britain.
563
00:37:55,240 --> 00:37:57,480
After world war ii, however,
564
00:37:57,520 --> 00:38:03,680
a new era of World-Wide
mistrust and paranoia began.
565
00:38:07,000 --> 00:38:08,600
During the second world war
566
00:38:08,640 --> 00:38:12,800
the UK and us had collaborated
very closely on weapons development,
567
00:38:12,840 --> 00:38:17,200
but as the cold war emerged
after 1945, the two parted company,
568
00:38:17,240 --> 00:38:18,720
fairly spectacularly,
569
00:38:18,760 --> 00:38:21,560
and britain was left alone
to develop its own weapons,
570
00:38:21,600 --> 00:38:23,920
including nuclear weapons.
571
00:38:23,960 --> 00:38:30,680
The west goes into overdrive
in developing nuclear weapons
572
00:38:30,720 --> 00:38:34,960
and 1949 - this is the
height of the cold war.
573
00:38:36,400 --> 00:38:39,880
Britain was now engaged
in a nuclear arms race
574
00:38:39,920 --> 00:38:42,800
and orford ness was transformed
575
00:38:42,840 --> 00:38:46,280
into the atomic weapons
research establishment.
576
00:38:50,160 --> 00:38:54,560
You don't want an
atomic bomb to go off
577
00:38:54,600 --> 00:38:57,760
between the factory
and the air field.
578
00:38:57,800 --> 00:39:01,760
You don't want the atomic
bomb to go off on the plane
579
00:39:01,800 --> 00:39:03,560
on the way to the target
580
00:39:03,600 --> 00:39:06,840
and you don't want the
atomic bomb to go off
581
00:39:06,880 --> 00:39:09,880
at the wrong time
after you drop it.
582
00:39:09,920 --> 00:39:14,320
All of those problems needed to
be worked out with experimentation
583
00:39:14,360 --> 00:39:17,720
and that required an
experimentation site.
584
00:39:21,040 --> 00:39:24,200
So what experiments
took place here?
585
00:39:24,240 --> 00:39:27,520
The site's manager
Grant lahorr, explains.
586
00:39:31,000 --> 00:39:34,480
The first test carried
out here was on vibration,
587
00:39:34,520 --> 00:39:37,760
so they were trying to replicate
the vibration in an aircraft
588
00:39:37,800 --> 00:39:39,600
or in a lorry on the road,
589
00:39:39,640 --> 00:39:42,080
or they were subjecting
them to shock,
590
00:39:42,120 --> 00:39:46,840
or g-forces, or
humidity, or temperature.
591
00:39:46,880 --> 00:39:52,200
Each laboratory was designed
to test different components
592
00:39:52,240 --> 00:39:53,720
of nuclear bombs.
593
00:39:56,720 --> 00:40:02,320
So this is what was called the
hard target or the high impact facility
594
00:40:02,360 --> 00:40:04,920
and this essentially
is where they were
595
00:40:04,960 --> 00:40:08,600
rocket - propelling atomic bomb
cases and nuclear bomb cases
596
00:40:08,640 --> 00:40:10,840
into very hard concrete wall,
597
00:40:10,880 --> 00:40:15,120
which was effectively replicating
the impact of the weapon
598
00:40:15,160 --> 00:40:16,640
when it was dropped.
599
00:40:18,720 --> 00:40:21,320
Yet the two most
intriguing facilities
600
00:40:21,360 --> 00:40:23,400
are at the furthest point.
601
00:40:23,440 --> 00:40:26,880
They are the
distinctive pagodas.
602
00:40:29,640 --> 00:40:32,360
It's these highly
unusual buildings
603
00:40:32,400 --> 00:40:35,920
that remain the area's most
famous landmarks today.
604
00:40:37,720 --> 00:40:40,200
This looks like
an ancient temple,
605
00:40:40,240 --> 00:40:43,680
it's got columns
holding up a pyramid,
606
00:40:43,720 --> 00:40:46,840
it's got arcane
markings on the walls,
607
00:40:46,880 --> 00:40:50,400
these strange
cruciform brackets.
608
00:40:52,280 --> 00:40:55,920
The work carried out
here during the cold war era
609
00:40:55,960 --> 00:40:59,040
was shrouded in secrecy.
610
00:41:00,920 --> 00:41:04,520
During that period from
the late 50s into the 1960s,
611
00:41:04,560 --> 00:41:07,720
the most paranoid period,
probably, of the cold war.
612
00:41:07,760 --> 00:41:10,480
Everything really
was extremely secret
613
00:41:10,520 --> 00:41:14,760
and it appears as if the site
was constantly being monitored
614
00:41:14,800 --> 00:41:18,560
and surveyed and
photographed by the Soviet union
615
00:41:18,600 --> 00:41:23,520
and so, everything around
it was cloaked in secrecy.
616
00:41:23,560 --> 00:41:27,760
The architecture of the
buildings is highly unusual,
617
00:41:27,800 --> 00:41:29,120
but very specific.
618
00:41:29,160 --> 00:41:33,440
They were created explicitly
for the purpose of understanding
619
00:41:33,480 --> 00:41:38,200
the behaviour of
weaponry and explosions.
620
00:41:38,240 --> 00:41:44,360
This is a place designed so
that if the pillars are blown up,
621
00:41:44,400 --> 00:41:46,520
the roof drops down
622
00:41:46,560 --> 00:41:51,200
and clamps all of the explosion
and debris down into the ground.
623
00:41:53,120 --> 00:41:56,000
The research
conducted at orford ness
624
00:41:56,040 --> 00:41:58,920
remains largely
secret to this day.
625
00:41:58,960 --> 00:42:00,760
Ironically,
626
00:42:00,800 --> 00:42:04,640
it was the success of the site
that contributed to its downfall.
627
00:42:04,680 --> 00:42:08,880
The us were so
impressed by its work,
628
00:42:08,920 --> 00:42:11,680
it re-established its old
relationship with britain
629
00:42:11,720 --> 00:42:15,480
to help advance both
nations' weapons programmes.
630
00:42:17,120 --> 00:42:21,000
This facility that concentrates
631
00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:24,400
on britain's separate
nuclear development,
632
00:42:24,440 --> 00:42:27,960
is really no longer needed
because, essentially,
633
00:42:28,000 --> 00:42:32,040
the British work together with
the Americans on nuclear weapons,
634
00:42:32,080 --> 00:42:35,200
which is how it works today.
635
00:42:35,240 --> 00:42:39,960
Orford ness was finally
abandoned in 1987.
636
00:42:44,920 --> 00:42:49,400
Today, the site is maintained
by the British national trust
637
00:42:49,440 --> 00:42:51,840
as a peaceful nature reserve.
638
00:42:54,480 --> 00:42:58,520
But its past has left
a dangerous legacy.
639
00:43:00,280 --> 00:43:04,200
After so many decades of
weapons testing at that site,
640
00:43:04,240 --> 00:43:06,560
it's simply not
possibly to guarantee
641
00:43:06,600 --> 00:43:08,520
that all devices
have been found.
642
00:43:09,960 --> 00:43:16,360
It is essentially impossible
to ever clean it out.
643
00:43:29,920 --> 00:43:31,840
Now they lie abandoned,
644
00:43:31,880 --> 00:43:36,440
but once, they were at the
cutting edge of engineering.
645
00:43:36,480 --> 00:43:41,200
There are echoes from history
in these decaying structures.
646
00:43:41,240 --> 00:43:44,040
They remind us
of terror and war,
647
00:43:44,080 --> 00:43:48,960
but also of great innovation
and human endeavour.
648
00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:52,000
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