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Narrator: Mysterious
remains of rusting ships,
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stranded in an arid desert.
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It was ecological suicide.
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00:00:14,480 --> 00:00:19,520
A ghostly set of concrete
teeth high in the Italian peaks.
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A very stark and strange
sight to have in the marginally
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00:00:23,680 --> 00:00:26,400
beautifully mountain landscape.
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An eerie collection of buildings
hidden in a remote forest.
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It's like a village
of the damned.
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You can tell that
something happened here.
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00:00:38,960 --> 00:00:40,360
And a technological marvel
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now rotting away
in a forgotten cove.
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It's so destroyed.
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It's hard to believe
there's any other reason
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00:00:47,200 --> 00:00:49,000
for that level of destruction
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other than some major
cataclysmic event.
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Once they were some of
the most advanced structures
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and facilities on the planet,
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at the cutting edge of
design and construction.
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Today, they stand
abandoned, contaminated,
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and sometimes deadly,
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but who built them and how
and why were they abandoned?
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(Theme music)
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In the southwest of
the former Soviet union
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is the country of Uzbekistan.
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And not far from the small town
of moynaq is an astonishing sight.
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For mile after mile,
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all you can see is a dry
and dusty desert landscape.
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There, in the middle
of this Sandy expanse,
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there are ships of every
size, from small to large.
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But where is the water?
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It's a very odd thing,
seeing a boat in the desert.
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You think of water instantly, a
boat is indicative sign of water.
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But then you look around
and there's none available.
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It's like an armada of
rusting hulks in the middle
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of the desert without a
shoreline anywhere in sight.
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It is an intensely
post-apocalyptic image.
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You don't have to be an expert
to tell that something has gone
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extremely wrong here.
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The town of moynaq
is virtually deserted.
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But what has gone on here?
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The only clue is
the symbol of a fish,
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which adorns the town's sign.
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There are signs that
fishing was absolutely
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once very important here,
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but what makes it so extraordinary
is that there's no water to be seen.
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In fact, it's miles
from the nearest sea.
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So, what happened?
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Where has the sea gone and
why was moynaq abandoned?
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The answer to this puzzle
lies more than 4,000km away
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in the heart of Russia's
capital, Moscow.
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In the 1950s,
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Uzbekistan was part
of the Soviet union,
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an empire 2.5 times
the size of the usa,
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which stretched from the
baltic sea to the pacific ocean.
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The country was still recovering
from the most destructive war
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in human history.
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The Soviet union's notorious
war leader Joseph Stalin
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died in march 1953,
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and he left behind a
country in very poor condition.
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00:04:07,960 --> 00:04:11,640
This was the grim situation
facing nikita khrushchev,
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the new first secretary
of the communist party
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of the Soviet union.
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The regime responded in
the only way it knew how,
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by seizing complete control.
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The Soviet union ran
on a command economy,
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all the decisions
were made at the top.
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And they would decide,
"comrade, you will grow the wheat.
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"And you will grow the cotton.
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"And you will make
the iron and steel."
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The individual districts and
certainly individual workers
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had very little
say in the matter.
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And the technocrats in charge
thought they had all the information
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they needed to
make all the decisions.
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00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:51,920
Each Soviet state
had to provide goods
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and raw materials to
the central government
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who would in turn provide
food and other products.
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Everything was
controlled by Moscow.
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There was no room
for experimentation.
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There was no room for anybody
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to deviate from
the central authority.
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So, once the order
came down from on high,
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everybody got in
line and conformed.
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The gaze of the Soviet
leadership fell on a new target
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for exploitation, moynaq.
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It's almost impossible
to imagine now
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when you look at the
desert that surrounds it.
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But 60 years ago,
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moynaq lay at the edge
of the fourth largest inland
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stretch of water in
the world, the aral sea.
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Forty thousand of its citizens
were either fishermen or worked
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at its fish processing plant,
the largest in the Soviet union.
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Almas tovashiv was one of them.
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More than 200 vessels
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were engaged in
the fishing industry,
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more than 100 vessels
were transporting fish
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to the fish canning factory,
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where 1,200 people worked
and annually produced
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up to 12 million cans of fish.
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The fishing industry was
able to thrive in the aral sea
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because it was fairly
shallow all round.
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So, it was actually
quite easy to fish.
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And by its nature,
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it didn't actually
freeze in the winter.
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So, you could do fishing
almost all year round.
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Overall, one-sixth of
Russia's annual fishing quota
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came from the aral sea...
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And a substantial industry
thrived on its shores.
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At that time,
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80% to 90% of the fish
production in Uzbekistan
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was provided by the aral sea.
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There were 34 species of fish,
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20 of which were of
commercial importance.
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Then there was one moynaq
fishing-canning factory,
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12 fishing collective
farms, and 6 fishing flotillas.
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The whole population
was engaged in fishing.
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But by 1990, all
fishing had ended.
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The sea had become a desert.
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So, what was the main reason
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for this extraordinary
transformation?
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It was all because of
something called white gold.
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We know it better as cotton.
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Cotton's been grown in
the aral basin for centuries.
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But this really ramped up
under the leadership of Stalin
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when he announced to the
world that the Soviet union
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would be the leading
producer of this crop.
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It only rains about
4 inches a year
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in that part of Uzbekistan.
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That's about the same as
the mojave desert in the us
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or even the same as
some parts of the Sahara.
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So, they needed to irrigate.
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They needed to get water
from somewhere else.
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Where did they get it?
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From the two rivers
that fed the aral sea.
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They dammed them up.
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They made reservoirs.
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They made this huge
complex of irrigation canals,
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thousands of miles
of irrigation canals.
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It was a typical vast,
ambitious Soviet project.
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But the crops needed
more than water to flourish.
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00:08:43,920 --> 00:08:47,200
Chemical fertilisers were
used in vast quantities,
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20 times the usual amounts.
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Cotton, especially the
way the Soviets grew it,
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took a lot of fertiliser,
a lot of pesticides.
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They sprayed this
stuff on with abandon.
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It flowed out.
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It polluted the ground water
so what little water that did flow
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into the aral sea was
heavily polluted with toxins.
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However, the Soviet plan to
concentrate on cotton production
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at the expense of
the aral sea worked.
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Uzbekistan became the
dominant supplier of cotton,
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the dominant grower of
cotton in the Soviet union,
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and remains a major
grower of cotton.
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But there was a huge
environmental price to pay.
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If you've got four-fifths of
your water source coming
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from elsewhere and
being brought in to maintain
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and sustain the sea, if
you shut that life blood off,
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things are gonna
change very dramatically.
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It was ecological suicide
because once they took
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all the water out
of those rivers,
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there wasn't enough
water to feed the aral sea.
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In its hot environment,
it's sunny most of the time,
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there's a lot of evaporation.
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Without water
continuing to flow into it,
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the aral sea began to evaporate.
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People understood
that there was less water.
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It was not enough
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even for watering gardens
and use on the farms.
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Moynaq's fishermen depended
on the lake for their livelihoods.
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So, they followed
its shrinking shores.
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But they soon realised there
was an even bigger problem.
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The fish were dying.
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Not only is the
shoreline moving away
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because you're deceasing
the volume of the water,
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but you're
increasing the salinity.
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And it went from about 10g
per litre to over 100g per litre,
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a massive jump, 10 times
more salt in the water.
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And the fish can't handle that.
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The fish essentially
get poisoned.
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It was turning from a
thriving rich freshwater
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ecosystem into a dead sea.
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By the late 1980s,
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the last native aral
fish had vanished,
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lost to the shrinking toxic sea.
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In just 34 years,
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the sea level dropped by 16m
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and the shoreline
receded by almost 160km.
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The speed at which
this actually happened
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is quite remarkable.
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And it's really quite
shocking to see this Jewel,
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one of the fourth largest
inland seas in the world,
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suddenly just diminishing
to a few sort of isolated lakes
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and really just
a big dry desert.
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A third of the
seabed was exposed,
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spreading 100 million
tonnes of dust and salt.
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Add to that, the residue from
the pesticides at the bottom
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of the sea,
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and you've got a
highly toxic combination.
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Ultimately, it all collapsed.
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And you can only
imagine how heart-breaking
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life was for the
people in that region.
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This had been their culture
and their way of life for centuries.
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00:12:25,360 --> 00:12:28,920
And have it all be obliterated
literally in just a few decades
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00:12:28,960 --> 00:12:30,600
must have just been devastating.
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00:12:37,080 --> 00:12:40,960
Today, the trawlers lay rusting
at the edge of moynaq's harbour...
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A ghost fleet in a town where
the sea is a distant memory.
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00:12:49,960 --> 00:12:52,360
The few remaining
people still living here
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are plagued by health problems.
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The aral sea has now
become the aral desert.
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It's a real cautionary tale in
environmental destruction.
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00:13:07,240 --> 00:13:12,800
An economy, it's not just a
nice lifestyle or a pleasant vista
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00:13:12,840 --> 00:13:16,880
but crucial parts of economies
depend on healthy an ecosystem.
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00:13:18,120 --> 00:13:19,800
When you see such
a dramatic change,
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00:13:19,840 --> 00:13:23,240
it shows us that how delicate
the environment can be
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00:13:23,280 --> 00:13:25,320
and how much we need to be aware
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00:13:25,360 --> 00:13:28,200
that we don't flip the
switch the wrong way
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and send those
environments catastrophically
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00:13:30,240 --> 00:13:31,440
into the wrong direction.
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00:13:39,840 --> 00:13:41,040
Hidden away in a forest,
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00:13:41,080 --> 00:13:43,520
50km southwest of Berlin
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00:13:43,560 --> 00:13:46,240
lies a vast complex of
abandoned buildings.
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00:13:53,080 --> 00:13:55,600
It's like a village
of the damned,
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00:13:55,640 --> 00:13:57,840
you can tell that
something happened here.
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00:14:00,520 --> 00:14:03,760
Due to its decrepit
and dilapidating nature,
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00:14:03,800 --> 00:14:06,840
it's a very unique and
creepy environment.
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00:14:08,680 --> 00:14:09,880
In one building,
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00:14:09,920 --> 00:14:12,560
there's a bathtub sitting by
itself in the middle of a room.
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00:14:15,080 --> 00:14:16,480
It's really mysterious.
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00:14:16,520 --> 00:14:17,680
What's going on here?
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00:14:21,840 --> 00:14:24,880
You can tell the amount
of care that was taken
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00:14:24,920 --> 00:14:26,080
when it was built,
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00:14:26,120 --> 00:14:30,360
with its pillars and terraces
and elaborate entrances.
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00:14:30,400 --> 00:14:31,600
It's almost palatial.
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00:14:39,320 --> 00:14:42,320
There are around 60
separate buildings on the site...
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00:14:44,200 --> 00:14:48,800
And the whole complex
sprawls across 1.5km.
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00:14:48,840 --> 00:14:52,080
But what dark secrets
does this facility hold?
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00:14:52,120 --> 00:14:53,320
And exactly how did
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00:14:53,360 --> 00:14:56,480
one of the world's most
evil men end up here?
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00:15:01,280 --> 00:15:05,120
The answer lies in this
spectacular industrial revolution
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00:15:05,160 --> 00:15:08,600
in Germany during the final
years of the 19th century.
240
00:15:11,360 --> 00:15:14,720
The extraordinary pace of
progress and technology, machinery,
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00:15:14,760 --> 00:15:18,840
and transport saw a once
deeply divided country
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00:15:18,880 --> 00:15:21,200
surpass even Great
Britain to become,
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00:15:21,240 --> 00:15:23,360
by the end of the 19th century,
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00:15:23,400 --> 00:15:25,560
the world's leading
industrial powerhouse.
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00:15:27,840 --> 00:15:31,880
While technical schools turned
out great thinkers and inventors,
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00:15:31,920 --> 00:15:35,160
Germany's years of investment
in education and training
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00:15:35,200 --> 00:15:38,800
eventually paid rich dividends
in the shape of a highly skilled
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00:15:38,840 --> 00:15:40,560
and motivated workforce.
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00:15:43,280 --> 00:15:48,000
The German population
doubled between 1871 and 1910,
250
00:15:48,040 --> 00:15:52,800
and its capital, Berlin, grew
by 300% in just 30 years.
251
00:15:57,120 --> 00:15:59,360
Germany had its
industrial revolution
252
00:15:59,400 --> 00:16:02,640
a bit later than some
other European countries.
253
00:16:02,680 --> 00:16:05,560
But it more than
made up for any delay.
254
00:16:05,600 --> 00:16:11,200
By the 1890s, it was thriving,
fast moving, almost chaotic.
255
00:16:13,320 --> 00:16:14,880
Factories were booming,
256
00:16:14,920 --> 00:16:16,560
labour was pouring in
257
00:16:16,600 --> 00:16:20,280
from impoverished rural
areas into the big cities,
258
00:16:20,320 --> 00:16:22,920
people were crammed
into crowded tenements,
259
00:16:22,960 --> 00:16:25,840
unhealthy living situations.
260
00:16:25,880 --> 00:16:29,920
And along with all those
people came a lot of diseases.
261
00:16:34,080 --> 00:16:36,160
Over 120 years ago,
262
00:16:36,200 --> 00:16:40,520
one disease in particular
swept through Germany.
263
00:16:40,560 --> 00:16:44,280
It was responsible for one
in seven of all human deaths.
264
00:16:46,640 --> 00:16:48,040
It was tuberculosis.
265
00:16:50,920 --> 00:16:54,680
It's a disease that's passed
by coughing or sneezing,
266
00:16:54,720 --> 00:16:58,120
germs get in the air, and
in crowded conditions,
267
00:16:58,160 --> 00:17:00,760
it passes from person
to person very easily.
268
00:17:04,520 --> 00:17:06,920
Hygiene back then
wasn't like today of course.
269
00:17:08,480 --> 00:17:11,400
If there was a toothbrush at
all in a working class household,
270
00:17:11,440 --> 00:17:14,120
it was used by
then whole family.
271
00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:17,000
So many people infected
their children with tuberculosis
272
00:17:17,040 --> 00:17:18,640
without even knowing it.
273
00:17:25,240 --> 00:17:26,280
For more than a century,
274
00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:30,840
tuberculosis was the most common
cause of death not only in Europe
275
00:17:30,880 --> 00:17:32,640
but also in the United States.
276
00:17:35,760 --> 00:17:38,080
At the time, there was no cure.
277
00:17:38,120 --> 00:17:41,200
And 80% of those
infected eventually died.
278
00:17:46,720 --> 00:17:49,320
Tb was not really
treatable in the sense
279
00:17:49,360 --> 00:17:50,840
that there was a cure for it.
280
00:17:50,880 --> 00:17:54,400
What people tried to do was
create a healthier environment
281
00:17:54,440 --> 00:17:56,200
for people with tuberculosis.
282
00:17:56,240 --> 00:17:58,360
"And the idea was,
"it's a lung disease,
283
00:17:58,400 --> 00:17:59,720
"it has something
to do with air.
284
00:17:59,760 --> 00:18:03,680
"Let's get them out of the city,
"out to where there's fresh air,
285
00:18:03,720 --> 00:18:04,880
dry air."
286
00:18:06,800 --> 00:18:09,480
It was very common
for rich people to be able
287
00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:12,840
to get sent off to
one of these hospitals
288
00:18:12,880 --> 00:18:15,480
in some lovely
mountainous setting.
289
00:18:15,520 --> 00:18:18,840
But many of the victims of
tuberculosis weren't affluent.
290
00:18:18,880 --> 00:18:20,120
They couldn't afford that.
291
00:18:27,960 --> 00:18:32,200
So, a new kind of
facility was needed,
292
00:18:32,240 --> 00:18:34,880
beelitz-heilstatten was
seen as the answer.
293
00:18:37,360 --> 00:18:39,840
Its aim was to provide
cutting edge care
294
00:18:39,880 --> 00:18:42,040
in a healthy setting,
295
00:18:42,080 --> 00:18:45,400
not for the very rich
but for the very poor.
296
00:18:48,720 --> 00:18:49,880
An insurance company
297
00:18:49,920 --> 00:18:52,280
was behind the building
of this sanatorium.
298
00:18:52,320 --> 00:18:55,120
They wanted to create
this model clinic for workers
299
00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:58,160
in Berlin who had limited
access to treatment otherwise.
300
00:19:04,520 --> 00:19:06,600
But would it work?
301
00:19:06,640 --> 00:19:09,520
Would a patient coming
from the squalor of Berlin
302
00:19:09,560 --> 00:19:12,200
actually have been helped
in a sanatorium like this?
303
00:19:15,840 --> 00:19:18,000
For people who lived in
very crowded conditions,
304
00:19:18,040 --> 00:19:19,680
they were many of
them factory workers,
305
00:19:19,720 --> 00:19:21,520
they didn't have a lot of money,
306
00:19:21,560 --> 00:19:23,176
they might not have had
a lot of people at home
307
00:19:23,200 --> 00:19:26,080
who could take care of
them in their sick condition.
308
00:19:26,120 --> 00:19:29,760
So, to be able to go
to this lovely retreat,
309
00:19:29,800 --> 00:19:31,320
even as their prognosis
310
00:19:31,360 --> 00:19:33,760
for getting better
wasn't that great,
311
00:19:33,800 --> 00:19:35,760
it must have seemed
like a kind of blessing.
312
00:19:38,760 --> 00:19:41,520
Building began in 1898,
313
00:19:41,560 --> 00:19:44,600
and the initial construction
phase took four years.
314
00:19:47,800 --> 00:19:52,440
The intricate ornamental facades
and the light spacious rooms
315
00:19:52,480 --> 00:19:55,080
were in stark contrast to
the conditions the workers
316
00:19:55,120 --> 00:19:56,920
were used to back in the cities.
317
00:20:00,280 --> 00:20:03,520
The beelitz sanatorium isn't
really like any other hospital
318
00:20:03,560 --> 00:20:05,720
where you might just
have an operating theatre,
319
00:20:05,760 --> 00:20:07,920
you might have a
corridor full of wards,
320
00:20:07,960 --> 00:20:12,520
and, you know, normal walls
and ventilation systems, etcetera.
321
00:20:12,560 --> 00:20:15,200
What we're trying to do here
is to create an atmosphere
322
00:20:15,240 --> 00:20:18,320
of wellbeing to bring
light in, to bring air in.
323
00:20:21,320 --> 00:20:24,520
What's really kind of
lovely is that they designed it
324
00:20:24,560 --> 00:20:28,560
to feel like a resort, like
a beautiful country town.
325
00:20:28,600 --> 00:20:31,080
I think the respect they
showed to these sick people,
326
00:20:31,120 --> 00:20:36,000
who were not affluent, who
weren't paying their own way,
327
00:20:36,040 --> 00:20:38,960
was really something admirable.
328
00:20:43,280 --> 00:20:45,400
But with war on the horizon,
329
00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:48,720
there were actually darker reasons
for this apparent benevolence.
330
00:20:52,280 --> 00:20:54,880
The kaiser was simply
afraid of the inability
331
00:20:54,920 --> 00:20:57,640
of some of his people
to serve in the military.
332
00:20:57,680 --> 00:21:00,680
Also, the economy would
have lost its cheap labourers.
333
00:21:00,720 --> 00:21:03,560
That was the real reason behind
the construction of this sanatorium.
334
00:21:07,560 --> 00:21:12,320
Eventually, there would
be beds for 1,200 patients,
335
00:21:12,360 --> 00:21:13,440
which made beelitz
336
00:21:13,480 --> 00:21:15,680
one of the largest
sanatoriums in the world.
337
00:21:18,360 --> 00:21:21,560
It was also briefly home
to the most notorious figure
338
00:21:21,600 --> 00:21:22,840
of the 20th century.
339
00:21:25,960 --> 00:21:29,320
When the first world
war began in 1914,
340
00:21:29,360 --> 00:21:31,600
the hospital found
itself in the front line.
341
00:21:37,640 --> 00:21:39,880
Beelitz heilstatten
was requisitioned
342
00:21:39,920 --> 00:21:42,080
as a field hospital
for the red cross.
343
00:21:45,400 --> 00:21:48,120
The number of beds
increased to more than 1,500.
344
00:21:50,760 --> 00:21:52,720
One of its patients
was a young corporal
345
00:21:52,760 --> 00:21:54,920
by the name of Adolf Hitler.
346
00:21:58,960 --> 00:22:01,720
Hitler was a patient there for
two months towards the end
347
00:22:01,760 --> 00:22:03,080
of 1916,
348
00:22:03,120 --> 00:22:05,440
when he was hit by a
grenade in his left leg
349
00:22:05,480 --> 00:22:07,040
and was sent to
beelitz for treatment.
350
00:22:10,920 --> 00:22:12,080
After the war,
351
00:22:12,120 --> 00:22:14,840
there was a resurgence
of tuberculosis.
352
00:22:14,880 --> 00:22:16,400
And in 1920,
353
00:22:16,440 --> 00:22:19,320
beelitz heilstatten
reverted to a sanatorium.
354
00:22:23,040 --> 00:22:26,760
For more than 20 years, it
continued to treat the disease.
355
00:22:29,760 --> 00:22:33,240
But a new treatment for tuberculosis
was just around the corner.
356
00:22:36,440 --> 00:22:38,840
Tuberculosis remained
a serious problem
357
00:22:38,880 --> 00:22:40,040
in the developed world
358
00:22:40,080 --> 00:22:43,480
until shortly after world
war ii when the antibiotic,
359
00:22:43,520 --> 00:22:47,120
streptomycin was discovered
and turned out to be
360
00:22:47,160 --> 00:22:48,880
pretty effective in
treating the disease.
361
00:22:50,880 --> 00:22:52,440
By the mid-1950s,
362
00:22:52,480 --> 00:22:56,760
tuberculosis had
become a curable disease
363
00:22:56,800 --> 00:22:59,040
and the need for the
hospital slowly declined.
364
00:23:03,280 --> 00:23:05,320
But that wasn't quite
the end of beelitz.
365
00:23:06,920 --> 00:23:08,480
After world war ii,
366
00:23:08,520 --> 00:23:12,240
the Russians took over
the eastern sector of Berlin
367
00:23:12,280 --> 00:23:16,120
and beelitz served as
a Soviet military hospital
368
00:23:16,160 --> 00:23:18,200
for the next 50 years.
369
00:23:23,200 --> 00:23:25,800
The Soviets operated
beelitz sanatorium
370
00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:30,160
as the largest military hospital
outside of the country's borders.
371
00:23:30,200 --> 00:23:31,800
In 1991,
372
00:23:31,840 --> 00:23:34,240
the Soviet troops slowly
started their withdrawal.
373
00:23:34,280 --> 00:23:36,960
And in 1994, the
grounds were empty again.
374
00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:51,520
Today, this once vital
hospital is a ghostly shell.
375
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:58,360
The disease it was built to
beat, now a footnote in history.
376
00:24:00,480 --> 00:24:01,560
Or is it?
377
00:24:03,080 --> 00:24:06,360
With the emergence in the
1980s of drug resistant strains
378
00:24:06,400 --> 00:24:08,000
of tuberculosis,
379
00:24:08,040 --> 00:24:11,320
beelitz heilstatten
serves to remind us
380
00:24:11,360 --> 00:24:12,360
that the battle against
381
00:24:12,400 --> 00:24:15,800
this potentially fatal
disease continues still.
382
00:24:21,360 --> 00:24:23,280
The size of the
epidemic of tuberculosis
383
00:24:23,320 --> 00:24:25,440
in the early 20th
century was large.
384
00:24:25,480 --> 00:24:28,000
Its impact was felt
wide through Europe.
385
00:24:28,040 --> 00:24:31,080
Sites like beelitz help
us remember that.
386
00:24:31,120 --> 00:24:35,280
And with the onset and
increase of modern tuberculosis,
387
00:24:35,320 --> 00:24:38,160
perhaps it's a really good reminder
of the seriousness of the disease.
388
00:24:46,840 --> 00:24:50,000
More than 2,000m
up in the Italian alps
389
00:24:50,040 --> 00:24:51,960
is the most extraordinary sight.
390
00:25:02,480 --> 00:25:04,920
Punching through tons of snow
391
00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:07,760
are rows of menacing
conical structures.
392
00:25:10,600 --> 00:25:14,080
There are these strange
pyramid-like structures
393
00:25:14,120 --> 00:25:16,600
that almost look like a
modern art installation.
394
00:25:16,640 --> 00:25:21,240
Seeing hundreds of these
concrete teeth jutting up
395
00:25:21,280 --> 00:25:23,760
out of the ground in
the alpine landscape
396
00:25:23,800 --> 00:25:26,840
is almost hard to
grasp what that is.
397
00:25:30,040 --> 00:25:34,040
The bizarre set of teeth are
made of concrete and iron
398
00:25:34,080 --> 00:25:36,440
and range in size up to 1m tall.
399
00:25:39,520 --> 00:25:42,040
They stretch out over
the remote mountaintops
400
00:25:42,080 --> 00:25:44,120
in a series of long clusters.
401
00:25:45,560 --> 00:25:49,400
But why were they built
at such a remote location?
402
00:25:49,440 --> 00:25:52,920
And what could their
strange purpose be?
403
00:25:52,960 --> 00:25:55,320
What's really odd is
where these things are,
404
00:25:55,360 --> 00:25:57,560
right near the
top of a mountain.
405
00:25:57,600 --> 00:25:58,880
They just don't belong there.
406
00:26:00,560 --> 00:26:02,160
It looks very medieval.
407
00:26:02,200 --> 00:26:04,760
It's almost exactly out
of "game of thrones",
408
00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:07,240
a very stark and strange site
409
00:26:07,280 --> 00:26:10,280
to have in a largely
beautiful mountain landscape.
410
00:26:12,800 --> 00:26:17,560
A clue as to what these rows of
conical spikes are can be found
411
00:26:17,600 --> 00:26:18,680
in the valley below.
412
00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:30,160
A labyrinth of secret
tunnels that stretch deep
413
00:26:30,200 --> 00:26:35,560
into the mountain itself lurk
behind a secret entrance disguised
414
00:26:35,600 --> 00:26:36,680
as a rock,
415
00:26:36,720 --> 00:26:38,640
which is built into
the side of the valley.
416
00:26:42,720 --> 00:26:43,920
When you look at it,
417
00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:48,200
it seems incredibly
solid and it blends
418
00:26:48,240 --> 00:26:51,280
almost seamlessly
into the background.
419
00:26:51,320 --> 00:26:53,840
Someone went to
an incredible effort
420
00:26:53,880 --> 00:26:55,000
to build that here.
421
00:26:57,400 --> 00:27:00,880
Who built this bizarre
alpine structure
422
00:27:00,920 --> 00:27:02,480
and what was its purpose?
423
00:27:13,480 --> 00:27:16,600
The answer lies in the uneasy
peace that existed across
424
00:27:16,640 --> 00:27:18,840
Western Europe in the 1930s.
425
00:27:22,680 --> 00:27:25,520
Germany still simmered
with resentment at the harsh
426
00:27:25,560 --> 00:27:29,560
respirations imposed on it
by the treaty of versailles,
427
00:27:29,600 --> 00:27:32,640
and its people turned to
Hitler, a national socialism,
428
00:27:32,680 --> 00:27:34,880
for salvation.
429
00:27:34,920 --> 00:27:38,760
Meanwhile, Italy fell under
the spell of the fascist dictator
430
00:27:38,800 --> 00:27:41,080
Benito Mussolini.
431
00:27:41,120 --> 00:27:44,680
Incredibly, less than 20
years after the end of a conflict
432
00:27:44,720 --> 00:27:46,760
that killed millions,
433
00:27:46,800 --> 00:27:51,400
the dark clouds of war gathered
once more over the continent.
434
00:27:51,440 --> 00:27:53,880
That was why the
major European powers
435
00:27:53,920 --> 00:27:55,400
looked to their borders
436
00:27:55,440 --> 00:27:59,040
and began to fortify them with
a series of elaborate defences.
437
00:28:01,360 --> 00:28:03,360
All of this stuff in France
where the country's
438
00:28:03,400 --> 00:28:06,720
seemingly impenetrable
maginot line.
439
00:28:06,760 --> 00:28:09,440
And at the same time, the Germans
were building their own version,
440
00:28:09,480 --> 00:28:11,840
the siegfried line across
their western front.
441
00:28:14,080 --> 00:28:17,440
All through Europe, you see
these border defence lines.
442
00:28:17,480 --> 00:28:22,160
And this is a reasonable precaution
by most European countries
443
00:28:22,200 --> 00:28:23,840
that had genuine threats.
444
00:28:27,400 --> 00:28:29,040
In 1931,
445
00:28:29,080 --> 00:28:32,240
Mussolini's engineers
began to build what was seen
446
00:28:32,280 --> 00:28:34,360
as the answer to
the threat of attack.
447
00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:40,240
It was a line of defences
that aimed to protect Italy
448
00:28:40,280 --> 00:28:44,120
over a 1,600km front
through the Italian alps.
449
00:28:47,280 --> 00:28:52,920
From ventimiglia on the
west coast to fiume in the east.
450
00:28:52,960 --> 00:28:57,080
It was known as the vallo
alpino or the alpine wall.
451
00:28:59,880 --> 00:29:04,120
Rows of concrete and iron
teeth crowned the ridges.
452
00:29:04,160 --> 00:29:06,960
And the valleys below
aligned with gun placements
453
00:29:07,000 --> 00:29:08,480
and bunkers for troops.
454
00:29:11,360 --> 00:29:13,800
However, this section
of the alpine wall
455
00:29:13,840 --> 00:29:16,880
faced not a hostile enemy
456
00:29:16,920 --> 00:29:20,480
but Mussolini's
supposed closest ally,
457
00:29:20,520 --> 00:29:23,080
Adolf Hitler's newly
annexed Austria.
458
00:29:27,880 --> 00:29:32,040
Mussolini was rather
distrustful of Hitler.
459
00:29:32,080 --> 00:29:35,600
He knew that Hitler had
expansionist ideas in Germany
460
00:29:35,640 --> 00:29:37,200
and certainly had
ideas on Austria.
461
00:29:39,200 --> 00:29:42,240
Now, this meant
problems for the Italians
462
00:29:42,280 --> 00:29:45,080
because they had
annexed this one region
463
00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:48,560
of south tyrol of
Austria after 1918.
464
00:29:50,160 --> 00:29:51,680
Mussolini understanding Hitler,
465
00:29:51,720 --> 00:29:55,720
knew that Hitler would
likely want to demand
466
00:29:55,760 --> 00:30:00,200
this territory and could
attack Italy and take the tyrol.
467
00:30:03,320 --> 00:30:05,040
Since world war I,
468
00:30:05,080 --> 00:30:07,960
fast-moving tanks had become
the most dominant weapon
469
00:30:08,000 --> 00:30:12,840
on the battlefield and Germany
470
00:30:12,880 --> 00:30:15,400
was the master of this
new type of warfare.
471
00:30:17,240 --> 00:30:20,080
How would the Italian
alpine defences be able
472
00:30:20,120 --> 00:30:23,720
to stop Hitler's new
mechanised army in its tracks?
473
00:30:25,160 --> 00:30:27,560
So, the dragons teeth
or the dente di drago
474
00:30:27,600 --> 00:30:30,520
were wooden Poles that
were pounded into the ground
475
00:30:30,560 --> 00:30:33,840
and then cast
cement around them,
476
00:30:33,880 --> 00:30:38,360
capped off with an
iron pyramid or cone.
477
00:30:38,400 --> 00:30:40,920
This creates a barrier
478
00:30:40,960 --> 00:30:43,160
for which armoured
vehicles and troops
479
00:30:43,200 --> 00:30:47,080
cannot pass through
and effectively funnelling
480
00:30:47,120 --> 00:30:51,440
a large armoured force
into effectively kill zones.
481
00:30:57,440 --> 00:30:59,840
The Italians designed
an elaborate network
482
00:30:59,880 --> 00:31:01,640
of interconnected bunkers
483
00:31:01,680 --> 00:31:05,640
and guns to encounter
any German advance.
484
00:31:05,680 --> 00:31:08,800
The fortifications were
named defence in depth.
485
00:31:10,320 --> 00:31:11,960
But would they work?
486
00:31:13,520 --> 00:31:16,560
The idea of having
multiple layers of defence
487
00:31:16,600 --> 00:31:19,440
is that you'll slow down
the momentum of an attack,
488
00:31:19,480 --> 00:31:21,720
making it much easier to repel.
489
00:31:23,800 --> 00:31:25,800
It's a series of strong points.
490
00:31:25,840 --> 00:31:30,000
It will stop and delay
any enemy advance.
491
00:31:30,040 --> 00:31:32,160
This gives the defender time
492
00:31:32,200 --> 00:31:34,960
to move up reserves
for a counterattack.
493
00:31:40,640 --> 00:31:42,520
Hidden in the side
of the mountain
494
00:31:42,560 --> 00:31:45,120
is the heavily camouflaged
secret entrance
495
00:31:45,160 --> 00:31:47,480
to the Italian alpine fortress.
496
00:31:49,520 --> 00:31:52,840
This is the fortified door
to bunker number 20.
497
00:31:55,720 --> 00:31:58,360
The door opens to reveal
a network of passages
498
00:31:58,400 --> 00:32:01,360
that link secret rooms
and machine guns posts.
499
00:32:05,080 --> 00:32:09,880
Local guide Ludwig schopf knows
exactly how dangerous it was.
500
00:32:13,720 --> 00:32:17,280
So, we see here the
machine gun room
501
00:32:17,320 --> 00:32:19,760
of the bunker number 20
502
00:32:19,800 --> 00:32:23,560
and here inside we
have three soldiers.
503
00:32:25,400 --> 00:32:28,600
The room is outside of the rock.
504
00:32:28,640 --> 00:32:32,400
Here is beginning, the rock,
and here, outside of the rock.
505
00:32:32,440 --> 00:32:34,400
And the soldiers knows
506
00:32:34,440 --> 00:32:38,680
that they were the
first people to die.
507
00:32:42,560 --> 00:32:46,000
The bunker's heavy camouflage
was designed to give the Italians
508
00:32:46,040 --> 00:32:49,280
the best possible chance
of destroying the enemy
509
00:32:49,320 --> 00:32:51,040
before they could
make an attack.
510
00:32:55,480 --> 00:32:59,120
They would cover
the face of the bunker
511
00:32:59,160 --> 00:33:01,440
with rock slurry material.
512
00:33:01,480 --> 00:33:04,320
You could not tell
that this is not part
513
00:33:04,360 --> 00:33:06,920
of a cliff face until
you're actually there
514
00:33:06,960 --> 00:33:08,360
and then the guns
open up on you.
515
00:33:10,200 --> 00:33:12,920
But how secure were
the bunkers themselves?
516
00:33:15,520 --> 00:33:19,640
The bunkers were built using
a vast amount of concrete,
517
00:33:19,680 --> 00:33:22,480
up to 13 feet deep in places.
518
00:33:24,600 --> 00:33:27,240
What they did was they
actually built concrete
519
00:33:27,280 --> 00:33:29,560
in and amongst the rock units
520
00:33:29,600 --> 00:33:32,920
to try and utilise the fact that
you've got these strong rocks
521
00:33:32,960 --> 00:33:36,160
either side of the pass
and act as a natural defence
522
00:33:36,200 --> 00:33:38,160
and then build round
that natural defence
523
00:33:38,200 --> 00:33:40,000
with some manmade
fortifications.
524
00:33:45,120 --> 00:33:49,720
What made Mussolini think
that Hitler would attack here?
525
00:33:49,760 --> 00:33:53,560
On the Austrian side of the
border, there is a simple mule track,
526
00:33:53,600 --> 00:33:57,080
which wouldn't have
supported the weight of a tank.
527
00:33:57,120 --> 00:33:59,376
But the Italians were worried
that Germans would construct
528
00:33:59,400 --> 00:34:03,320
a road into that region, allowing
armoured vehicles, tanks,
529
00:34:03,360 --> 00:34:06,000
and a large number of
troops to pass into the area.
530
00:34:09,280 --> 00:34:12,320
Yes, it's quite possible the
Germans could send troops
531
00:34:12,360 --> 00:34:14,480
up here because that is in fact
532
00:34:14,520 --> 00:34:16,600
how they broke through
mountain defence lines.
533
00:34:17,960 --> 00:34:20,520
But were the
fortifications ever used?
534
00:34:23,480 --> 00:34:27,160
If we're to follow Mussolini
and the advance of the Germans,
535
00:34:27,200 --> 00:34:30,280
the vallo alpino defence
structures were never actually used.
536
00:34:30,320 --> 00:34:32,640
The Italians just
surrendered, and effectively,
537
00:34:32,680 --> 00:34:34,720
the Germans walked
into northern Italy.
538
00:34:37,560 --> 00:34:39,920
The vallo alpino was actually,
539
00:34:39,960 --> 00:34:41,720
for the most part,
very lightly guarded.
540
00:34:41,760 --> 00:34:45,000
And this would have been
essentially border troops.
541
00:34:46,360 --> 00:34:48,800
These are not
your frontline troops.
542
00:34:48,840 --> 00:34:52,040
So, it provided no
real defence at all.
543
00:34:54,280 --> 00:34:55,920
The defending
soldiers just gave up.
544
00:34:55,960 --> 00:34:58,320
And even though there
was these very elaborate
545
00:34:58,360 --> 00:35:01,120
defence structures that
were constructed, in essence,
546
00:35:01,160 --> 00:35:02,960
they were never used
and were useless.
547
00:35:05,880 --> 00:35:08,080
Ironically, the
Germans themselves
548
00:35:08,120 --> 00:35:10,680
later incorporated
the vallo alpino
549
00:35:10,720 --> 00:35:13,720
into their own defences
against the allies,
550
00:35:13,760 --> 00:35:16,560
when they were
sweeping through Italy.
551
00:35:16,600 --> 00:35:17,640
But in the end,
552
00:35:17,680 --> 00:35:20,640
the vallo alpino defences
were never used.
553
00:35:25,960 --> 00:35:27,760
Today the rusting spikes
554
00:35:27,800 --> 00:35:30,760
of the dragon's teeth still
dominate the landscape.
555
00:35:34,160 --> 00:35:36,520
They show just how far Mussolini
556
00:35:36,560 --> 00:35:39,000
was prepared to go
to defend his country.
557
00:35:42,640 --> 00:35:44,720
So, when you see these
expansive structures now,
558
00:35:44,760 --> 00:35:49,320
it's an interesting historical
throwback to a different time.
559
00:35:49,360 --> 00:35:51,600
For now, they're too
expensive to remove.
560
00:35:51,640 --> 00:35:55,320
So, we just sort of accept
them as historical reminders
561
00:35:55,360 --> 00:35:57,480
as well as just
strange structures
562
00:35:57,520 --> 00:35:58,880
stuck in the middle of the alps.
563
00:36:08,320 --> 00:36:13,000
At the far eastern tip of Canada,
just visible above the waterline,
564
00:36:13,040 --> 00:36:15,800
lies a rusting hulk
of corroding metal.
565
00:36:26,080 --> 00:36:28,880
It's almost like this
monster of the deep.
566
00:36:31,920 --> 00:36:34,000
But why is this leviathan
567
00:36:34,040 --> 00:36:36,600
being gradually
reclaimed by the sea?
568
00:36:39,760 --> 00:36:43,520
It lies in a forgotten cove
off the coast of newfoundland.
569
00:36:45,080 --> 00:36:46,720
This partially
submerged structure
570
00:36:46,760 --> 00:36:49,680
has such mystery around it.
571
00:36:49,720 --> 00:36:52,520
And that is compounded
by where it sits
572
00:36:52,560 --> 00:36:54,800
in this completely
idyllic setting.
573
00:36:57,720 --> 00:37:02,720
This weird sort of a
sandwich of junk of rusty steel,
574
00:37:02,760 --> 00:37:03,840
one chunk of it,
575
00:37:03,880 --> 00:37:05,736
you can recognise as
some kind of modern trawler
576
00:37:05,760 --> 00:37:07,520
or something parked alongside.
577
00:37:07,560 --> 00:37:11,880
But what it's next to is
like an exploded factory.
578
00:37:11,920 --> 00:37:13,360
It just doesn't belong there.
579
00:37:15,480 --> 00:37:18,960
Only part of the
structure is still visible.
580
00:37:19,000 --> 00:37:21,440
The rest is
completely submerged.
581
00:37:23,120 --> 00:37:25,920
It's so devastated,
it's so destroyed,
582
00:37:25,960 --> 00:37:28,120
it's hard to believe
there's any other reason
583
00:37:28,160 --> 00:37:30,040
for that level of destruction
584
00:37:30,080 --> 00:37:32,320
other than some major
cataclysmic event.
585
00:37:33,600 --> 00:37:36,880
These are the remains
of hms 'calypso'.
586
00:37:38,560 --> 00:37:41,800
Once, it was one of the most
technologically advanced ships
587
00:37:41,840 --> 00:37:43,840
in the British fleet.
588
00:37:43,880 --> 00:37:46,720
Now, it's abandoned
and rotting in the water.
589
00:37:49,520 --> 00:37:51,640
The reasons for
'calypso's destruction
590
00:37:51,680 --> 00:37:54,600
can be found in the job
she was designed to do.
591
00:37:57,960 --> 00:38:02,840
In the 1870s, britain was
a dominant global force,
592
00:38:02,880 --> 00:38:04,200
the British empire,
593
00:38:04,240 --> 00:38:06,760
which at one point covered
a quarter of the globe
594
00:38:06,800 --> 00:38:12,040
and included 450 million
people was at its height.
595
00:38:12,080 --> 00:38:15,840
Britain's ports were
busy bustling places,
596
00:38:15,880 --> 00:38:19,800
where goods from all over the
empire were processed to fuel
597
00:38:19,840 --> 00:38:24,120
and feed the industrial
revolution, which was in full swing.
598
00:38:25,920 --> 00:38:28,120
Britain was a wealthy nation,
599
00:38:28,160 --> 00:38:31,280
a small country but with
extraordinary influence
600
00:38:31,320 --> 00:38:33,200
all over the world.
601
00:38:33,240 --> 00:38:38,080
All of this was thanks, in
part, to its powerful Navy.
602
00:38:38,120 --> 00:38:42,520
Britain is absolutely
the world superpower
603
00:38:42,560 --> 00:38:44,320
in the 1870s.
604
00:38:44,360 --> 00:38:46,840
Nobody has got
a Navy like britain.
605
00:38:46,880 --> 00:38:51,160
Nobody has global
reach like britain.
606
00:38:51,200 --> 00:38:56,200
The royal Navy exists to
ensure that whatever difficulties
607
00:38:56,240 --> 00:38:57,600
there are in the world,
608
00:38:57,640 --> 00:39:02,240
nobody stops trade between
britain and her colonies.
609
00:39:09,160 --> 00:39:12,560
Designed to fight
competing European powers
610
00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:16,080
and pirates in the far
corners of the globe,
611
00:39:16,120 --> 00:39:18,840
'calypso's design was
a quirky combination
612
00:39:18,880 --> 00:39:20,760
of sail and steam.
613
00:39:23,680 --> 00:39:26,040
She has a steam engine.
614
00:39:26,080 --> 00:39:30,080
But 'calypso' can also
go under sail power.
615
00:39:30,120 --> 00:39:33,200
That means that 'calypso'
can go on a long patrol
616
00:39:33,240 --> 00:39:36,680
and just use the wind to
get where she needs to go.
617
00:39:38,440 --> 00:39:42,600
This helped the vessel ply
the waters that were in vast,
618
00:39:42,640 --> 00:39:45,520
distant colonies where
they may not have access
619
00:39:45,560 --> 00:39:47,080
to any resources.
620
00:39:47,120 --> 00:39:51,800
What we see here is design
features that actually make the vessel
621
00:39:51,840 --> 00:39:55,520
more reliable and allow
it to carry out its duties.
622
00:39:58,640 --> 00:40:01,360
Endurance and toughness
were the main strengths
623
00:40:01,400 --> 00:40:03,000
of the 'calypso'
624
00:40:03,040 --> 00:40:07,880
and at her heart was her strange
and revolutionary hull construction.
625
00:40:10,440 --> 00:40:12,800
Her hull is actually composite.
626
00:40:12,840 --> 00:40:15,800
In fact, it's a steel hull, steel
plates over an iron frame,
627
00:40:15,840 --> 00:40:17,040
all very modern.
628
00:40:17,080 --> 00:40:18,856
But then you've got this
weird addition of wood.
629
00:40:18,880 --> 00:40:20,496
You can see the
timbers still sticking out
630
00:40:20,520 --> 00:40:21,960
of the water today.
631
00:40:22,000 --> 00:40:24,600
Now, why would you bother
putting wood over steel?
632
00:40:27,080 --> 00:40:28,520
Steel, on its own,
633
00:40:28,560 --> 00:40:31,720
won't protect the ship from
what's called biofouling,
634
00:40:31,760 --> 00:40:35,400
which is the build-up
of barnacles and algae,
635
00:40:35,440 --> 00:40:38,520
which can damage the hull
and the propulsion system.
636
00:40:42,800 --> 00:40:46,160
So, the solution was to
coat the hull with copper.
637
00:40:48,040 --> 00:40:51,080
But you can't put copper
plates on a steel hull
638
00:40:51,120 --> 00:40:52,640
because you get
galvanic erosion.
639
00:40:52,680 --> 00:40:55,080
You'll actually
corrode the hull itself
640
00:40:55,120 --> 00:40:57,360
because of the reaction
between these two metals.
641
00:40:57,400 --> 00:41:00,160
The only thing to do is
to have your steel hull,
642
00:41:00,200 --> 00:41:01,920
put wood over the top of that,
643
00:41:01,960 --> 00:41:04,480
and then copper
sheets in the same old
644
00:41:04,520 --> 00:41:05,920
way over the top again.
645
00:41:07,440 --> 00:41:09,480
In June 1883,
646
00:41:09,520 --> 00:41:12,440
'calypso' was launched
with a great fanfare
647
00:41:12,480 --> 00:41:15,080
from the chatham
dockyard in england,
648
00:41:15,120 --> 00:41:18,720
built to police britain's
vast maritime empire.
649
00:41:18,760 --> 00:41:22,920
She's one of the last steam
and sail ships ever built.
650
00:41:22,960 --> 00:41:25,600
This wasn't an old-fashioned
and weakly armed warship.
651
00:41:25,640 --> 00:41:28,920
For her size, for her speed,
she could pack quite a punch.
652
00:41:31,160 --> 00:41:34,400
So, how did such a
powerful ship meet its end?
653
00:41:35,960 --> 00:41:40,560
Did pirates or enemy ships somehow
overwhelm her impressive defences?
654
00:41:43,920 --> 00:41:46,680
'Calypso's' design was
actually her undoing.
655
00:41:48,480 --> 00:41:52,280
As soon as the royal
Navy builds a ship,
656
00:41:52,320 --> 00:41:55,520
the French Navy or the German
Navy builds a comparable ship
657
00:41:55,560 --> 00:41:58,800
and makes that royal
Navy vessel obsolete.
658
00:42:00,680 --> 00:42:02,720
In the 1870s,
659
00:42:02,760 --> 00:42:06,680
the kind of ship that
we see in the 'calypso'
660
00:42:06,720 --> 00:42:09,560
is briefly very powerful,
661
00:42:09,600 --> 00:42:12,360
briefly useful against
enemy vessels,
662
00:42:12,400 --> 00:42:14,880
and within ten
years, is obsolete.
663
00:42:20,840 --> 00:42:22,440
In 1902,
664
00:42:22,480 --> 00:42:24,640
'calypso' was sent
across the Atlantic
665
00:42:24,680 --> 00:42:26,280
to become a training ship
666
00:42:26,320 --> 00:42:28,680
for the newfoundland
royal Navy reserve.
667
00:42:31,240 --> 00:42:34,920
Sixty years later, the decision
was made to scrap her.
668
00:42:37,200 --> 00:42:38,440
In 1968,
669
00:42:38,480 --> 00:42:39,960
it was finally decided
670
00:42:40,000 --> 00:42:42,720
that the vessel
should be abandoned.
671
00:42:42,760 --> 00:42:47,080
It was towed to a small cove
outside of embree, newfoundland.
672
00:42:47,120 --> 00:42:48,800
And it was burned
to the waterline.
673
00:42:59,640 --> 00:43:02,720
Today, hms 'calypso'
lies abandoned
674
00:43:02,760 --> 00:43:04,240
off the coast of Canada.
675
00:43:06,480 --> 00:43:09,200
When I see a ship
like the 'calypso',
676
00:43:09,240 --> 00:43:13,360
I see a monument
to so many people
677
00:43:13,400 --> 00:43:16,400
working so hard together
to make something great.
678
00:43:33,480 --> 00:43:35,520
Now, they lie abandoned.
679
00:43:35,560 --> 00:43:39,520
But once, they were at the
cutting edge of engineering.
680
00:43:39,560 --> 00:43:44,160
There are echoes from history
in these decaying structures.
681
00:43:44,200 --> 00:43:49,560
They remind us of terror and
war but also of great innovation
682
00:43:49,600 --> 00:43:50,960
and human endeavour.
683
00:43:51,000 --> 00:43:54,000
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