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Rob: A technological masterpiece
lost to a Norwegian fjord.
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00:00:05,960 --> 00:00:07,760
When you get up close,
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00:00:07,800 --> 00:00:10,200
you realise there's a lot
more than meets the eye.
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00:00:13,160 --> 00:00:15,240
Tom ward (narrates): An
ambitious arctic structure
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00:00:15,280 --> 00:00:18,480
that became an
environmental hazard.
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00:00:18,520 --> 00:00:20,640
Man: Nothing had
ever been built like it.
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00:00:20,680 --> 00:00:23,680
It was one of the greatest
feats of arctic engineering
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00:00:23,720 --> 00:00:24,960
that's ever been.
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00:00:26,400 --> 00:00:31,200
A mysterious concrete giant
on an icy mountain peak.
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00:00:31,240 --> 00:00:34,520
Buzludzha is this
amazing structure
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00:00:34,560 --> 00:00:37,760
that is a little bit mysterious.
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00:00:37,800 --> 00:00:40,800
It reminds me of something
out of a 1970s Sci-Fi film.
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00:00:44,440 --> 00:00:48,440
And a fantastical castle in
the middle of the Hudson river.
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00:00:48,480 --> 00:00:50,920
He left an incredible building
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00:00:50,960 --> 00:00:52,840
which was an icon
all over the world.
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00:00:56,040 --> 00:00:58,720
Once they were some of
the most advanced structures
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00:00:58,760 --> 00:01:01,360
and facilities on the planet
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00:01:01,400 --> 00:01:04,240
at the cutting edge of
design and construction.
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00:01:05,320 --> 00:01:11,160
Today, they stand abandoned,
contaminated, and sometimes deadly.
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00:01:11,200 --> 00:01:13,400
But who build them and how?
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And why were they abandoned?
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00:01:15,560 --> 00:01:17,720
(Theme music)
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Deep beneath the Norwegian
fjord near the port of narvik
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00:01:42,040 --> 00:01:44,640
lies a forgotten
engineering masterpiece.
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From among the scattered
debris littering the sea floor
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00:01:56,240 --> 00:02:01,480
rises a corroded bulk
of metal 37 feet wide.
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00:02:01,520 --> 00:02:06,120
When you first see this
mass of twisted rusting steel
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00:02:06,160 --> 00:02:10,040
in the otherwise beautiful
setting of Norwegian fjords,
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00:02:10,080 --> 00:02:11,296
you think, "hang on,
someone's just been
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00:02:11,320 --> 00:02:13,080
dumping junk down here."
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00:02:15,920 --> 00:02:17,800
For 390 feet,
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it climbs towards the rocky
shoreline of rombaksfjord
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00:02:21,600 --> 00:02:23,560
where it protrudes
out of the water.
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00:02:24,720 --> 00:02:26,280
Yet something
appears to have crushed
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00:02:26,320 --> 00:02:28,600
and warped this metal structure.
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00:02:31,000 --> 00:02:32,480
When you get up close
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00:02:32,520 --> 00:02:35,360
and actually you
see just how twisted
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00:02:35,400 --> 00:02:39,840
and mangled this
mass of rusty steel is,
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00:02:39,880 --> 00:02:43,000
you realise it's not just
the roof of someone's shed
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00:02:43,040 --> 00:02:47,280
that they've lobbed down there
to disintegrate into the seas.
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00:02:47,320 --> 00:02:49,920
Actually, there's a lot
more than meets the eye.
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00:02:52,320 --> 00:02:55,200
What is this
mysterious metal wreck?
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00:02:55,240 --> 00:02:58,360
Why is it here in the
pristine nordic wilderness?
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00:02:58,400 --> 00:03:00,360
And why was it abandoned?
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00:03:05,440 --> 00:03:08,000
On 1 march, 1940,
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00:03:08,040 --> 00:03:13,440
Adolf Hitler ordered the
invasion of neutral Norway,
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00:03:13,480 --> 00:03:16,440
looking to exploit the
country's long coastline
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and intent on obtaining
essential raw materials
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00:03:19,160 --> 00:03:22,160
for its growing war machine.
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00:03:22,200 --> 00:03:26,440
One of these was high-grade iron
ore flowing from the port of narvik.
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00:03:28,760 --> 00:03:32,120
But these waters were
patrolled by britain's royal Navy,
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00:03:32,160 --> 00:03:35,840
still the most powerful
Navy in the world.
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00:03:35,880 --> 00:03:39,760
To compete, the German Navy
needed a modern fleet of the fastest
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00:03:39,800 --> 00:03:42,960
and most manoeuvrable
ships, destroyers.
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00:03:46,760 --> 00:03:48,880
James: Destroyers
are not mini battleships.
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00:03:48,920 --> 00:03:50,280
They are, to some degree,
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00:03:50,320 --> 00:03:54,880
expendable weapons
with relatively small crews.
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00:03:54,920 --> 00:03:58,480
And they're capable of
a multitude of operations.
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00:03:58,520 --> 00:04:00,640
They're an essential
part of the Navy.
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00:04:02,520 --> 00:04:05,920
Destroyers were originally
developed in the late 19th century
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00:04:05,960 --> 00:04:08,720
in response to the
emergence of torpedo boats.
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00:04:10,320 --> 00:04:13,280
Through the interwar
years, they were light vessels
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00:04:13,320 --> 00:04:14,880
with little endurance
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00:04:14,920 --> 00:04:17,800
but packed with armour
and capable of high speeds.
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00:04:19,800 --> 00:04:22,560
They could escort
merchant convoys
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00:04:22,600 --> 00:04:24,840
but were increasingly
built as weapons
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00:04:24,880 --> 00:04:27,680
to counter submarines
and aircraft.
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00:04:28,920 --> 00:04:33,200
In the 1930s Germany, in
breach of the versailles treaty
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00:04:33,240 --> 00:04:35,360
began building destroyers again.
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00:04:36,440 --> 00:04:40,840
They create a
warship that represents
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00:04:40,880 --> 00:04:44,120
the absolutely apogee
of German technology.
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00:04:44,160 --> 00:04:49,200
And these destroyers are gonna
be the best warships on the sea.
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00:04:53,680 --> 00:04:58,440
Hitler's new fleet were
the type 1934 destroyers.
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00:04:58,480 --> 00:05:00,680
And this is the 'Georg tiller'.
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00:05:02,160 --> 00:05:05,000
At the cutting edge
of warship technology,
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00:05:05,040 --> 00:05:10,160
it cost around 67 million
pounds in today's money to build
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and she entered service in 1937.
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00:05:15,560 --> 00:05:18,440
The 'Georg tiller' was
one of the first of Hitler's
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new breed of warship that
he believed was gonna win him
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00:05:21,960 --> 00:05:23,640
the war on the waves.
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00:05:23,680 --> 00:05:27,640
It was bigger, it was faster
and much more heavily armed
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than anything it was
gonna come up against.
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00:05:35,040 --> 00:05:37,440
On 6 April, 1940,
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00:05:37,480 --> 00:05:40,120
Georg tiller and
nine other high-speed
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heavily armed destroyers
headed for narvik.
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00:05:44,080 --> 00:05:47,760
On board were three
thousand elite mountain troops
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spearheading the
German invasion of Norway.
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00:05:53,440 --> 00:05:56,480
Viggo kristensen is an
author of the epic naval battles
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that took place at narvik.
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00:05:58,880 --> 00:06:02,360
They had very
sophisticated machinery,
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00:06:02,400 --> 00:06:04,560
high-pressure boilers
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00:06:04,600 --> 00:06:08,320
delivering high-pressure
steam to the turbines.
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00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:12,040
And that gave the German
destroyers very high speed,
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00:06:12,080 --> 00:06:14,240
more than 40 knots.
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00:06:14,280 --> 00:06:16,640
Comparing to the
English destroyers,
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00:06:16,680 --> 00:06:19,360
the highest speed
was about 32 knots.
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00:06:20,960 --> 00:06:23,800
Despite her speed
and sophistication,
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00:06:23,840 --> 00:06:26,560
her modern design
was overcomplicated.
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00:06:26,600 --> 00:06:28,960
And compared with
royal Navy destroyers,
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00:06:29,000 --> 00:06:32,400
mechanical breakdowns
were common.
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00:06:32,440 --> 00:06:36,800
The Germans build warships
that, on paper, are excellent,
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but, on through high seas,
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they just can't
perform properly.
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00:06:43,120 --> 00:06:45,560
One of the ships' key
design flaws was that
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00:06:45,600 --> 00:06:49,600
she was top heavy, making
her unstable in rough seas.
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00:06:50,840 --> 00:06:52,920
To avoid the
threat of capsizing,
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00:06:52,960 --> 00:06:58,040
her fuel tanks had to remain
just 30% full at all times.
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00:06:58,080 --> 00:06:59,880
And that wasn't
her only weakness.
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00:07:01,880 --> 00:07:03,880
They were so heavy at the front
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00:07:03,920 --> 00:07:07,120
they'd really dip into the
water in heavy weather
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and take on hundreds
of gallons of water.
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00:07:10,560 --> 00:07:14,840
The engines were unreliable
and the guns were too big.
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00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:21,360
Their powerful arsenal
consisted of 5 inch guns,
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437mm anti-aircraft guns,
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and eight 21 inch torpedo tubes.
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For all its defects,
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this was still a fierce
fighting machine.
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On April 10, 1940,
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00:07:37,760 --> 00:07:40,840
the ten destroyers
powered towards narvik.
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They actually,
very successfully,
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00:07:45,080 --> 00:07:48,680
landed in a surprise
attack on narvik,
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00:07:48,720 --> 00:07:51,640
landed their invasion force
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00:07:51,680 --> 00:07:55,520
which fairly quickly
seized the railhead
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00:07:55,560 --> 00:07:57,200
and the town of narvik,
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00:07:57,240 --> 00:07:59,240
drove out the
defending Norwegians.
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00:08:02,800 --> 00:08:04,960
Yet victory was short-lived.
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00:08:06,880 --> 00:08:10,680
A royal Navy attack force
thundered in to retake narvik.
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00:08:11,840 --> 00:08:14,080
Lynette: They were coming
with these highly tuned
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00:08:14,120 --> 00:08:16,440
German sports cars of destroyers
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00:08:16,480 --> 00:08:17,576
and they were coming up against
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00:08:17,600 --> 00:08:21,520
these clunky royal Navy
Land Rover destroyers.
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00:08:21,560 --> 00:08:24,920
And the Germans,
they fight very well.
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00:08:26,880 --> 00:08:29,600
The 'Georg tiller'
unleashed hell,
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00:08:29,640 --> 00:08:32,600
taking out one of the
royal Navy destroyers.
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00:08:33,840 --> 00:08:34,960
But outnumbered
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and in the narrow
confines of the fjord,
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she was unable to take advantage
of her superior speed and firepower.
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00:08:42,840 --> 00:08:46,760
Suffering seven major
hits in the process,
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00:08:46,800 --> 00:08:50,720
14 of her 325-man
crew were killed.
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00:08:53,000 --> 00:08:55,240
You're operating an
impossible situation.
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00:08:55,280 --> 00:08:57,040
You're in an enclosed area,
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00:08:57,080 --> 00:08:59,200
you can't effectively
use your torpedo,
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00:08:59,240 --> 00:09:01,560
and the British have
brought in cruisers
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00:09:01,600 --> 00:09:03,000
and much heavier ships.
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00:09:06,360 --> 00:09:09,720
British firepower sent
six German destroyers
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00:09:09,760 --> 00:09:11,320
to the bottom of the fjord.
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00:09:12,840 --> 00:09:15,960
Trapped, low on
ammunition and fuel,
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00:09:16,000 --> 00:09:18,720
the surviving German
destroyers fled.
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00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:22,640
But the 'Georg
tiller' stood defiant,
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00:09:22,680 --> 00:09:24,800
firing her last torpedo
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00:09:24,840 --> 00:09:28,240
as British destroyer
hms 'eskimo' closed in.
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00:09:31,240 --> 00:09:36,800
'Georg tiller's' last torpedo
rolled the boat off the eskimo.
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00:09:42,640 --> 00:09:45,760
The royal Navy set its
sights on the 'Georg tiller'.
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Badly damaged,
there was no escape.
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00:09:52,280 --> 00:09:55,320
Well, the only option they
had was to ram their ship
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as fast as they
could onto the shore.
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00:09:57,760 --> 00:10:03,080
That would allow their crew
some chance of escape onto land
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00:10:03,120 --> 00:10:05,360
and would effectively
scuttle the ship.
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00:10:08,320 --> 00:10:12,280
She headed for shore
at a speed of 45 knots,
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00:10:12,320 --> 00:10:14,800
beaching herself
on rombaksfjord.
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00:10:19,680 --> 00:10:22,120
What a sight that
must have been.
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00:10:22,160 --> 00:10:23,840
It's pretty much
a third of the ship
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00:10:23,880 --> 00:10:25,560
that made its way up onto land
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00:10:25,600 --> 00:10:29,560
to allow its crew some
chance of escape.
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00:10:29,600 --> 00:10:32,200
But just a phenomenal sacrifice
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00:10:32,240 --> 00:10:34,800
that those captains
made of the technology
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00:10:34,840 --> 00:10:36,920
and potentially of
their crew as well.
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00:10:40,440 --> 00:10:43,320
With her fate sealed,
the ship's crew fled
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00:10:43,360 --> 00:10:46,000
and escaped into
the surrounding hills.
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00:10:47,400 --> 00:10:51,800
The battles of narvik however
had cost the German Navy dearly,
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00:10:51,840 --> 00:10:54,480
half their total
destroyer force was lost.
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00:10:56,920 --> 00:11:00,880
Breaking in two, the stern
of this German war machine
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00:11:00,920 --> 00:11:05,600
sank deep into the rombaksfjord
while the bow rolled onto its side.
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00:11:06,800 --> 00:11:09,560
It was left mangled
and abandoned.
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00:11:16,160 --> 00:11:19,880
Today, the twisted steel
plates of 'Georg tiller'
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still lie in this
Norwegian backwater
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never able to fully unleash
here superior speed,
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00:11:26,760 --> 00:11:29,560
manoeuvrability, and firepower,
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00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:32,000
she was ultimately
defeated by the surroundings
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00:11:32,040 --> 00:11:33,760
in which she fought.
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00:11:33,800 --> 00:11:36,360
Well, in another
20-30 years or so,
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it's likely what's
left will disintegrate
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00:11:39,920 --> 00:11:41,760
and slip further down
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00:11:41,800 --> 00:11:44,080
and finally come to
rest on the seabed,
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joining its sister
ships down there.
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00:11:46,360 --> 00:11:49,040
And maybe that
is a more fitting end
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00:11:49,080 --> 00:11:54,480
to the last remaining survivor
of Hitler's long-vanished fleet.
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Around 3,500 miles west,
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high in the chugach
mountains of Alaska
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00:12:06,040 --> 00:12:09,280
is one of the world's first
fleets of arctic engineering.
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00:12:13,240 --> 00:12:15,560
Wedged in a glacier lined gap,
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00:12:15,600 --> 00:12:19,760
178 feet above the
fast-flowing copper river,
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00:12:19,800 --> 00:12:24,000
this rusting steel bridge
is almost 500m in length.
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00:12:26,840 --> 00:12:28,496
Man: Nothing had
ever been built like it.
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00:12:28,520 --> 00:12:32,040
It was one of the greatest
feats of arctic engineering
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00:12:32,080 --> 00:12:33,160
that's ever been,
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00:12:33,200 --> 00:12:35,400
and it's been copied
many times since.
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00:12:37,120 --> 00:12:39,880
It really required some
innovative thinking
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00:12:39,920 --> 00:12:42,400
and the challenges
were pretty demonstrable.
200
00:12:44,520 --> 00:12:48,840
Supporting the steel bridge
are three huge concrete legs,
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00:12:48,880 --> 00:12:53,040
each 64 feet long and
21 feet thick at the base.
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00:12:54,480 --> 00:12:56,240
To get all of that material
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00:12:56,280 --> 00:12:59,400
in a very pristine
Alaskan wilderness,
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00:12:59,440 --> 00:13:01,800
it is truly mind-blowing.
205
00:13:01,840 --> 00:13:04,720
Yet a closer look reveals
some unusual elements
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00:13:04,760 --> 00:13:07,000
to this mammoth structure
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00:13:07,040 --> 00:13:10,520
that hint at the unique
challenges this construction faced.
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00:13:12,480 --> 00:13:16,640
We have these concrete
blocks coming out of the water.
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00:13:16,680 --> 00:13:17,720
Why?
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00:13:20,200 --> 00:13:22,960
What are these concrete wedges?
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00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:26,920
And why was this seemingly
intact structure abandoned?
212
00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:37,200
In 1900, Alaska was rich in
undiscovered natural resources.
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00:13:37,240 --> 00:13:40,000
Deep in the territories
wrangell mountains,
214
00:13:40,040 --> 00:13:43,520
prospectors discovered
high-grade copper ore
215
00:13:43,560 --> 00:13:47,400
and set up the kennecott mine
to extract the valuable mineral.
216
00:13:50,640 --> 00:13:52,920
But that was only
half the battle.
217
00:13:52,960 --> 00:13:56,440
How would they transport
this priceless ore to civilisation?
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00:13:58,240 --> 00:14:01,720
The mines' owners jp
Morgan and Daniel guggenheim
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00:14:01,760 --> 00:14:05,680
sank $25 million into
the copper river railway.
220
00:14:07,400 --> 00:14:09,600
At 196 miles long,
221
00:14:09,640 --> 00:14:12,360
the route faced a multitude
of obstacles thrown up
222
00:14:12,400 --> 00:14:14,400
by the Alaskan
climate and landscape.
223
00:14:18,720 --> 00:14:20,176
Dougal: Whenever you
have engineering projects
224
00:14:20,200 --> 00:14:22,160
in high latitudes,
the arctic regions,
225
00:14:22,200 --> 00:14:24,240
antarctic regions,
it's a problem.
226
00:14:24,280 --> 00:14:26,520
It might be easier to
work there in winter
227
00:14:26,560 --> 00:14:28,480
when the ground's more solid.
228
00:14:28,520 --> 00:14:32,400
You've got that dynamic
problem of a melt season.
229
00:14:32,440 --> 00:14:35,200
As you've got lots of snow,
when you get the summer,
230
00:14:35,240 --> 00:14:37,400
a short summer, you
get lots and lots of water,
231
00:14:37,440 --> 00:14:38,760
so you get big rivers.
232
00:14:38,800 --> 00:14:41,320
So, all of these things
make engineering projects
233
00:14:41,360 --> 00:14:43,360
in such environments
very, very difficult.
234
00:14:45,320 --> 00:14:48,240
Standing in its way
were steep canyons,
235
00:14:48,280 --> 00:14:52,200
Gale-force winds,
rivers, and glaciers.
236
00:14:52,240 --> 00:14:55,800
In particular, two
formidable walls of ice,
237
00:14:55,840 --> 00:14:59,680
the Childs and
miles river glaciers.
238
00:14:59,720 --> 00:15:01,840
Barely 3 miles apart,
239
00:15:01,880 --> 00:15:04,920
they blocked both
banks of the copper river.
240
00:15:04,960 --> 00:15:10,520
The only solution was to build
this, the miles glacier bridge,
241
00:15:10,560 --> 00:15:13,400
better known as the
million dollar bridge.
242
00:15:13,440 --> 00:15:15,400
Andrew: The million
dollar bridge is aptly named
243
00:15:15,440 --> 00:15:18,000
because that's what
it cost to construct.
244
00:15:19,040 --> 00:15:22,960
It was a completely unique
engineering challenge.
245
00:15:23,000 --> 00:15:25,480
Luke borer is a
local businessman
246
00:15:25,520 --> 00:15:29,120
and has intimate knowledge
of the challenges they faced.
247
00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:32,320
It was new technology
for everything.
248
00:15:32,360 --> 00:15:35,400
Nobody had a glacier
on both sides of the bridge
249
00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:38,160
that's dumping
1,000 tonne icebergs
250
00:15:38,200 --> 00:15:40,280
and 100 mile an hour winds
251
00:15:40,320 --> 00:15:44,440
and 60 below zero
temperatures across a river
252
00:15:44,480 --> 00:15:47,000
that has a current of 10 knots.
253
00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:51,880
Plus the fact access to
here was near impossible.
254
00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:56,600
This impossible bridge
had to be light enough
255
00:15:56,640 --> 00:15:58,680
to stretch across the river
256
00:15:58,720 --> 00:16:01,360
but strong enough to
take the river's current
257
00:16:01,400 --> 00:16:04,200
and the strain of
two fully loaded trains
258
00:16:04,240 --> 00:16:06,000
meeting in the
middle of the span.
259
00:16:11,840 --> 00:16:13,800
To achieve this economically,
260
00:16:13,840 --> 00:16:17,080
engineers built four
steel truss spans
261
00:16:17,120 --> 00:16:19,480
mounted on three concrete piers.
262
00:16:21,400 --> 00:16:24,640
Roma: So, this bridge is a
Pennsylvania truss bridge.
263
00:16:24,680 --> 00:16:26,520
Now, engineers love trusses
264
00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:30,120
because they're full of triangles
and triangles are a strong shape.
265
00:16:30,160 --> 00:16:33,160
It also means you've
got thinner pieces of steel
266
00:16:33,200 --> 00:16:35,240
and you're cleverly
channelling loads
267
00:16:35,280 --> 00:16:38,480
and forces through
it into the foundations
268
00:16:38,520 --> 00:16:41,480
to create and efficient
structure and a light structure.
269
00:16:44,920 --> 00:16:47,040
Construction of the
miles glacier bridge
270
00:16:47,080 --> 00:16:48,960
began in April 1909.
271
00:16:50,680 --> 00:16:54,080
The workers were
in a race against time.
272
00:16:54,120 --> 00:16:57,240
The melt season released
1,000 tonne icebergs
273
00:16:57,280 --> 00:17:00,720
that could potentially sweep
away all their hard work.
274
00:17:02,680 --> 00:17:05,680
They finished in a
breakneck 13 months
275
00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:07,160
and improvised the structure
276
00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:10,440
to deal with these potentially
devastating battering rams.
277
00:17:11,600 --> 00:17:13,080
Roma: You try and deflect them.
278
00:17:13,120 --> 00:17:15,280
You try and stop those
massive pieces of ice
279
00:17:15,320 --> 00:17:17,320
from actually hitting
the bridge itself.
280
00:17:18,960 --> 00:17:20,480
There's two ice-breakers,
281
00:17:20,520 --> 00:17:23,280
one in front of pier one
and one in front of pier three.
282
00:17:23,320 --> 00:17:26,720
They're both
approximately 53 feet long,
283
00:17:26,760 --> 00:17:31,920
31 feet wide buried about
20 feet into the bed of the river
284
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:36,720
and sticking out of the
water all of about 18 feet.
285
00:17:37,960 --> 00:17:40,320
The iceberg had
come down and hit that
286
00:17:40,360 --> 00:17:44,200
and are either split or
deflected by the ice-breakers
287
00:17:44,240 --> 00:17:47,040
so that the ice doesn't
hit the piers themselves.
288
00:17:52,560 --> 00:17:55,360
With the bridge complete
and now protected,
289
00:17:55,400 --> 00:17:59,040
the first 1200 tonne load
of high-grade copper ore
290
00:17:59,080 --> 00:18:02,440
travelled across the miles
glacier bridge in 1911.
291
00:18:07,160 --> 00:18:10,320
For the next 27 years, the
bridge withstood the elements
292
00:18:10,360 --> 00:18:13,120
to bring its investors
a massive return.
293
00:18:13,160 --> 00:18:16,720
So, even though the bridge is
called the million dollar bridge,
294
00:18:16,760 --> 00:18:18,560
for its day, which
was a lot of money,
295
00:18:18,600 --> 00:18:21,400
the amount of money
that came out of the mine,
296
00:18:21,440 --> 00:18:23,200
almost over $200 million,
297
00:18:23,240 --> 00:18:25,360
more than paid for
the extravagant sum
298
00:18:25,400 --> 00:18:26,600
that was spent at the time.
299
00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:34,360
The bridge proved a vital
and hugely profitable lifeline.
300
00:18:34,400 --> 00:18:38,640
But in November 1938,
having exhausted its resources,
301
00:18:38,680 --> 00:18:41,360
the kennecott copper
mine shut down
302
00:18:41,400 --> 00:18:43,160
and plans were made to transform
303
00:18:43,200 --> 00:18:46,200
the railway bed into a
high wave of vehicles.
304
00:18:47,840 --> 00:18:50,480
Then at 5:36am
305
00:18:50,520 --> 00:18:55,200
on march 27, 1964,
disaster struck.
306
00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:02,200
The earthquake
that struck Alaska
307
00:19:02,240 --> 00:19:06,120
in 1964 recorded as the
second largest earthquake
308
00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:08,960
every recorded in human history.
309
00:19:10,520 --> 00:19:12,960
Whole communities were destroyed
310
00:19:13,000 --> 00:19:16,560
and 139 people
killed in an earthquake
311
00:19:16,600 --> 00:19:19,040
with a magnitude of 9.2.
312
00:19:20,280 --> 00:19:23,280
Lucas: The '64 earthquake
knocked down stand four.
313
00:19:23,320 --> 00:19:26,360
It fell down into the
water basically intact.
314
00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:30,400
But the reason it fell
is the pier supporting it
315
00:19:30,440 --> 00:19:32,320
had sliced itself in half
316
00:19:32,360 --> 00:19:34,440
because there was no
structural reinforcement
317
00:19:34,480 --> 00:19:35,520
in the concrete.
318
00:19:37,880 --> 00:19:41,240
Armour rails were embedded
in the surface of the concrete,
319
00:19:41,280 --> 00:19:44,840
running vertically to just
above the high water Mark.
320
00:19:44,880 --> 00:19:46,840
This was to protect
it from icebergs.
321
00:19:48,640 --> 00:19:51,320
Above these armour rails,
the concrete was sheared off
322
00:19:51,360 --> 00:19:53,040
by the force of the earthquake.
323
00:19:54,920 --> 00:19:57,160
It left engineers
grappling with a problem
324
00:19:57,200 --> 00:19:58,600
for the next 40 years.
325
00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:03,800
If the rest of the
bridge collapsed,
326
00:20:03,840 --> 00:20:07,680
it could create an
environmental disaster,
327
00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:10,680
not only blocking
the copper river below
328
00:20:10,720 --> 00:20:13,160
but poisoning its waters
with its lead coating.
329
00:20:15,200 --> 00:20:16,440
The engineers were torn
330
00:20:16,480 --> 00:20:19,400
between repairing or
demolishing the bridge.
331
00:20:19,440 --> 00:20:21,880
But in the end, its
fate was determined
332
00:20:21,920 --> 00:20:24,160
by financial considerations.
333
00:20:25,720 --> 00:20:30,200
It was less expensive to
repair it than it was to take it out.
334
00:20:30,240 --> 00:20:33,120
In excess of $100
million was estimated
335
00:20:33,160 --> 00:20:35,040
to take the bridge out,
336
00:20:35,080 --> 00:20:39,840
and they spent 17 million
on phase one to fix the bridge.
337
00:20:41,320 --> 00:20:45,400
In 2004, work began to
rebuild the damaged pier
338
00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:48,640
and raise the fallen
span back into place.
339
00:20:52,080 --> 00:20:54,840
Despite the repairs,
the bridge was redundant
340
00:20:54,880 --> 00:20:58,640
as the highway it served
could no longer reach it.
341
00:20:58,680 --> 00:21:01,960
The miles glacier
bridge was abandoned.
342
00:21:07,280 --> 00:21:11,840
Today, the bridge serves no
purpose but remains a tourist attraction
343
00:21:11,880 --> 00:21:14,880
as well as being an
environmental ticking time-bomb.
344
00:21:17,400 --> 00:21:21,600
Andrew: It requires upkeep.
It's too expensive to get rid of.
345
00:21:21,640 --> 00:21:23,720
So, what are you
gonna do with it?
346
00:21:23,760 --> 00:21:28,240
Today, the million dollar bridge
is literally a bridge to nowhere.
347
00:21:33,640 --> 00:21:37,040
Over 5,000 miles
away, across the Atlantic,
348
00:21:37,080 --> 00:21:40,600
high up in the central
Balkan mountains of Bulgaria
349
00:21:40,640 --> 00:21:43,120
is a structure that
appears out of this world.
350
00:21:49,480 --> 00:21:51,360
Through the cold swirling mist,
351
00:21:51,400 --> 00:21:54,880
a strange curved
concrete surface emerges,
352
00:21:54,920 --> 00:21:57,320
punctuated by oblong openings.
353
00:21:58,760 --> 00:22:01,120
An amazing structure
354
00:22:01,160 --> 00:22:05,400
that is a little bit
mysterious I think I'd say.
355
00:22:05,440 --> 00:22:08,600
It reminds me of something
out of a 1970s Sci-Fi film.
356
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:15,560
Eerie light and haze Pierce
the decaying copper roof
357
00:22:15,600 --> 00:22:19,800
that covers this abandoned
22,500-tonne structure.
358
00:22:21,880 --> 00:22:24,120
It looks like ufo
or a flying saucer
359
00:22:24,160 --> 00:22:26,840
with a concrete
spire going above it.
360
00:22:30,400 --> 00:22:34,840
The 230 foot high tower
tapering to only 30 feet
361
00:22:34,880 --> 00:22:37,960
at its base rises from
the concrete disc.
362
00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:43,240
But its purpose is almost
impossible to decipher.
363
00:22:45,400 --> 00:22:47,760
If you told me it was
the control centre
364
00:22:47,800 --> 00:22:50,680
for nuclear missiles,
I'd believe you.
365
00:22:50,720 --> 00:22:55,240
If you told me it as some
paganist cult worship centre,
366
00:22:55,280 --> 00:22:56,520
I'd believe you.
367
00:22:56,560 --> 00:22:58,840
It's confusing.
368
00:22:58,880 --> 00:23:02,040
What is this
extraordinary complex?
369
00:23:02,080 --> 00:23:07,280
Why is it here 4,600 feet up in
the central Balkan mountains?
370
00:23:12,680 --> 00:23:15,040
The answer lies
behind the iron curtain
371
00:23:15,080 --> 00:23:16,640
of the 1970s.
372
00:23:17,800 --> 00:23:20,280
At this time, Bulgaria
was the Soviet union's
373
00:23:20,320 --> 00:23:22,000
most loyal eastern ally
374
00:23:22,040 --> 00:23:25,800
thanks to the country's
communist dictator todor zhivkov.
375
00:23:28,000 --> 00:23:29,360
As head of state,
376
00:23:29,400 --> 00:23:34,200
he looked to a common
cause in Bulgaria's history
377
00:23:34,240 --> 00:23:36,720
and a unifying project
on a grand scale
378
00:23:36,760 --> 00:23:39,160
that would ignite
nationalist spirit
379
00:23:39,200 --> 00:23:41,720
and unite his people under
the communist banner.
380
00:23:43,720 --> 00:23:47,280
He chose a site of huge
national pride and significance.
381
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,920
The location's
important to Bulgarians
382
00:23:51,960 --> 00:23:56,080
because it's built on the
site of a 19th century battle
383
00:23:56,120 --> 00:24:00,120
between Bulgarian rebels, which
became the communist party,
384
00:24:00,160 --> 00:24:02,360
and the forces of
the ottoman empire.
385
00:24:04,320 --> 00:24:06,520
After battling
against five centuries
386
00:24:06,560 --> 00:24:08,040
of ottoman occupation
387
00:24:08,080 --> 00:24:11,320
and founding the Bulgarian
communist party here,
388
00:24:11,360 --> 00:24:14,560
this was also the site where
partisans lost their lives
389
00:24:14,600 --> 00:24:18,520
fighting fascist forces
during world war ii.
390
00:24:18,560 --> 00:24:20,920
All combined to make
this a national symbol
391
00:24:20,960 --> 00:24:24,240
of heroism and self-sacrifice
392
00:24:24,280 --> 00:24:28,480
and the perfect location for
this, the buzludzha monument.
393
00:24:29,640 --> 00:24:31,256
The first impressions
when you see the monument
394
00:24:31,280 --> 00:24:33,920
are sort of bewilderment.
395
00:24:33,960 --> 00:24:36,200
When you see monuments,
there's classical shapes.
396
00:24:36,240 --> 00:24:38,360
This is not classical anyway.
397
00:24:38,400 --> 00:24:41,200
And so it's strikingly strange.
398
00:24:41,240 --> 00:24:43,640
For me, buzludzha
pretty much exemplifies
399
00:24:43,680 --> 00:24:47,240
the methods communism
used to keep people
400
00:24:47,280 --> 00:24:49,840
under the thumb
and to exert the power
401
00:24:49,880 --> 00:24:52,560
over the people
through their brutalistic
402
00:24:52,600 --> 00:24:55,040
and oppressive architecture.
403
00:24:57,720 --> 00:25:01,800
The project began
on 23 January, 1974.
404
00:25:03,040 --> 00:25:06,200
However, creating
such a massive structure
405
00:25:06,240 --> 00:25:09,280
on top of this inhospitable
mountain range
406
00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:11,040
was no easy task.
407
00:25:12,680 --> 00:25:15,240
Dan: Constructing
anything of large size
408
00:25:15,280 --> 00:25:17,160
in a remote area is challenging.
409
00:25:17,200 --> 00:25:18,560
And I think it was sort of
410
00:25:18,600 --> 00:25:21,640
classical socialist
will that decided,
411
00:25:21,680 --> 00:25:23,456
you know, "we're gonna
build "this building right here.
412
00:25:23,480 --> 00:25:24,616
"And no matter what it takes,
413
00:25:24,640 --> 00:25:27,000
"we're gonna cart "all this
material up this mountain.
414
00:25:27,040 --> 00:25:28,936
"We're gonna dynamite
"the top off the mountain
415
00:25:28,960 --> 00:25:31,720
and this is what we're
gonna do," and they did.
416
00:25:34,000 --> 00:25:37,280
530,000 cubic feet of rock
417
00:25:37,320 --> 00:25:40,880
were blasted away to
level the top of the mountain,
418
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:43,680
dropping its height by
an incredible 30 feet.
419
00:25:46,400 --> 00:25:49,320
At such high altitude, the
progress of construction
420
00:25:49,360 --> 00:25:50,960
was at the mercy
of the elements.
421
00:25:53,040 --> 00:25:57,520
Workers battled heavy snowfall,
high winds, and enveloping mists.
422
00:25:59,760 --> 00:26:02,000
They worked around the
clock to achieve the build
423
00:26:02,040 --> 00:26:05,000
in the narrow weather
window from may to September.
424
00:26:06,440 --> 00:26:08,240
With such a demanding schedule,
425
00:26:08,280 --> 00:26:11,040
a constant supply
of materials was vital.
426
00:26:12,960 --> 00:26:14,776
Roma: Now, this thing's
made out of concrete.
427
00:26:14,800 --> 00:26:16,680
So, you need to get
the aggregates up there,
428
00:26:16,720 --> 00:26:18,800
you need to get the
wet concrete up there.
429
00:26:18,840 --> 00:26:21,040
You need to mix it up
and make sure that it's all,
430
00:26:21,080 --> 00:26:22,720
you know, properly
moulded together.
431
00:26:22,760 --> 00:26:25,360
You need to get the
formwork up there
432
00:26:25,400 --> 00:26:27,440
so that you can actually
shape the concrete.
433
00:26:29,280 --> 00:26:31,680
It's really a big
logistical challenge.
434
00:26:36,760 --> 00:26:40,640
Despite these difficulties,
70,000 tonnes of concrete
435
00:26:40,680 --> 00:26:44,840
and 3,000 tonnes of steel were
used to construct the monument.
436
00:26:46,600 --> 00:26:49,000
At its core was a y-shaped base
437
00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:52,320
that took the whole vertical
load of the unique saucer.
438
00:26:56,080 --> 00:26:58,840
Centred around a
simple interior structure,
439
00:26:58,880 --> 00:27:02,600
it was the futuristic outer shell
that posed the greatest challenge.
440
00:27:04,920 --> 00:27:09,040
Dora Ivanova is an architect
and runs the buzludzha project.
441
00:27:10,120 --> 00:27:12,040
She works to
reconstruct the monument
442
00:27:12,080 --> 00:27:14,240
and preserve it for
future generations.
443
00:27:15,960 --> 00:27:18,440
The design of the monument
was a great challenge
444
00:27:18,480 --> 00:27:21,560
for the engineering in the '70s.
445
00:27:21,600 --> 00:27:24,560
The shape and the
concrete was calculated
446
00:27:24,600 --> 00:27:26,720
by computers in Moscow.
447
00:27:28,000 --> 00:27:30,200
When you're trying to
make something as curved
448
00:27:30,240 --> 00:27:33,320
and as sinuous as this structure
that we're looking at here,
449
00:27:33,360 --> 00:27:34,416
then you need to think about,
450
00:27:34,440 --> 00:27:36,800
"well, how am I actually
going to achieve that?"
451
00:27:36,840 --> 00:27:39,800
So, it's a really interesting
challenge for engineers,
452
00:27:39,840 --> 00:27:41,320
especially in that era,
453
00:27:41,360 --> 00:27:43,960
to create these really
smooth curves against
454
00:27:44,000 --> 00:27:46,160
which they then want
to pour the concrete.
455
00:27:47,480 --> 00:27:50,600
And the principle can
be actually explained
456
00:27:50,640 --> 00:27:52,680
with a turned up umbrella.
457
00:27:52,720 --> 00:27:56,760
There are thick steel
ropes that are pre-stressed
458
00:27:56,800 --> 00:28:02,000
and concreted in order to
create this overhang of 25m.
459
00:28:04,600 --> 00:28:09,640
The futuristic design was
inspired by a fascination with space.
460
00:28:09,680 --> 00:28:12,920
This was the era not only
of the first man in space
461
00:28:12,960 --> 00:28:15,080
but the first
Bulgarian in space.
462
00:28:16,400 --> 00:28:18,960
An impressive 30
tonnes of copper cladding
463
00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:21,120
covers the roof of the saucer
464
00:28:21,160 --> 00:28:23,680
which can be heated
to melt heavy snowfall,
465
00:28:23,720 --> 00:28:26,480
preventing the
roof from collapse.
466
00:28:26,520 --> 00:28:28,200
One of the biggest challenges
467
00:28:28,240 --> 00:28:29,856
that the engineers would
have had to consider
468
00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:32,480
in designing this is
the amount of snow
469
00:28:32,520 --> 00:28:34,720
that the roof would
need to resist.
470
00:28:36,200 --> 00:28:39,520
So, having the shallow dome
shape is actually a fairly good shape
471
00:28:39,560 --> 00:28:41,640
because it will allow some snow
472
00:28:41,680 --> 00:28:44,520
to kind of move its
way off and to flow off.
473
00:28:50,400 --> 00:28:53,440
A striking element of this
construction is the tower
474
00:28:53,480 --> 00:28:56,840
that soars from the
mountain top towards the sky.
475
00:28:59,600 --> 00:29:05,120
Its summit takes the load of
two 39 feet high red glass stars,
476
00:29:05,160 --> 00:29:07,880
each weighing a
colossal 3.5 tonnes.
477
00:29:10,520 --> 00:29:14,440
Dora: They were the biggest
illuminated stars in the world.
478
00:29:14,480 --> 00:29:17,360
They could be seen from
hundreds of kilometres away
479
00:29:17,400 --> 00:29:18,600
by good weather.
480
00:29:21,440 --> 00:29:22,840
No expense was spared
481
00:29:22,880 --> 00:29:25,480
on the lavish interior
of the structure.
482
00:29:26,960 --> 00:29:28,000
Rob: From the outside,
483
00:29:28,040 --> 00:29:31,160
you see this brutalist
concrete version
484
00:29:31,200 --> 00:29:33,160
of the millennium falcon.
485
00:29:33,200 --> 00:29:36,040
On the inside, the
feeling's quite different.
486
00:29:38,080 --> 00:29:40,880
They used 35 tonnes of mosaic
487
00:29:40,920 --> 00:29:44,400
and stained glass
to decorate the inside
488
00:29:44,440 --> 00:29:46,280
to give it the atmosphere
that they wanted.
489
00:29:51,720 --> 00:29:55,520
The mosaics were not
just for decorative purposes.
490
00:29:55,560 --> 00:29:57,360
Every element
within the monument
491
00:29:57,400 --> 00:29:59,960
was a reminder of
the communist cause.
492
00:30:03,720 --> 00:30:06,720
From the one side,
could be seen the faces
493
00:30:06,760 --> 00:30:08,640
of Lenin, Marx, and engels.
494
00:30:08,680 --> 00:30:11,960
And from the other side, the
Bulgarian communist leaders.
495
00:30:18,320 --> 00:30:22,920
A 538 square foot mosaic of
the hammer and sickle crowns
496
00:30:22,960 --> 00:30:25,440
the centre of this
monumental achievement.
497
00:30:27,280 --> 00:30:30,880
It took 7 years,
6,000 volunteers,
498
00:30:30,920 --> 00:30:34,000
and more than 25 million
pounds in today's money
499
00:30:34,040 --> 00:30:35,800
to construct buzludzha.
500
00:30:37,080 --> 00:30:40,320
The grand opening
on 23 August, 1981,
501
00:30:40,360 --> 00:30:43,600
was attended by the world's
top communist leaders.
502
00:30:44,920 --> 00:30:47,160
The site was
immediately glorified
503
00:30:47,200 --> 00:30:50,240
through the communist
world as a beacon of power.
504
00:30:51,560 --> 00:30:54,000
Many of the communist structures
505
00:30:54,040 --> 00:30:57,640
that we see were almost
monuments to either individuals
506
00:30:57,680 --> 00:31:00,480
or to military control
507
00:31:00,520 --> 00:31:03,720
to the power of that
communist party.
508
00:31:05,360 --> 00:31:06,760
They weren't
necessarily beautiful
509
00:31:06,800 --> 00:31:09,400
or maybe they were
beautiful in their own way.
510
00:31:09,440 --> 00:31:11,680
There was certainly a
lot of concrete involved.
511
00:31:12,920 --> 00:31:16,320
It served as a mecca
for communism.
512
00:31:16,360 --> 00:31:18,440
Visits had a
ritualised character
513
00:31:18,480 --> 00:31:20,960
and took the form of
an organised pilgrimage.
514
00:31:24,640 --> 00:31:28,400
It also doubled a meeting place
for the Bulgarian communist party.
515
00:31:30,960 --> 00:31:34,400
Dora: People were really impressed
and astonished by the building.
516
00:31:34,440 --> 00:31:37,800
They still remember
until today their visits.
517
00:31:37,840 --> 00:31:42,040
And in this sense, buzludzha
was a really effective tool
518
00:31:42,080 --> 00:31:44,960
of creating communist mythology.
519
00:31:47,680 --> 00:31:50,480
For eight years, it
served as the emblem
520
00:31:50,520 --> 00:31:54,560
of Bulgarian communism
and drew 3 million visitors,
521
00:31:54,600 --> 00:31:58,320
all requiring written permission
before making the trip.
522
00:31:59,560 --> 00:32:03,280
1989, however, saw
the dawn of a new age.
523
00:32:03,320 --> 00:32:05,840
It was the beginning
of the end for the ussr.
524
00:32:06,960 --> 00:32:09,560
And todor zhivkov's
fall from power rendered
525
00:32:09,600 --> 00:32:13,360
the buzludzha monument
a relic of the past.
526
00:32:13,400 --> 00:32:16,600
With no interest in preserving
this symbol of communism,
527
00:32:16,640 --> 00:32:20,840
the new regime closed its
doors and it was abandoned.
528
00:32:28,320 --> 00:32:32,480
Today, having suffered
decades of looting and vandalism,
529
00:32:32,520 --> 00:32:36,720
buzludzha monument is a
ruined shell clouded in mist.
530
00:32:36,760 --> 00:32:39,560
And its future looks bleak.
531
00:32:39,600 --> 00:32:43,680
On 24 November, 2016,
the Bulgarian government
532
00:32:43,720 --> 00:32:46,520
passed a new law
banning public displays
533
00:32:46,560 --> 00:32:49,400
of communist symbols.
534
00:32:49,440 --> 00:32:51,680
So, are they going
to tear it down
535
00:32:51,720 --> 00:32:54,600
or will this hill return
to its former glory?
536
00:32:56,200 --> 00:32:58,240
Future generations
may never know
537
00:32:58,280 --> 00:33:02,120
that here stood a powerful
icon of Bulgarian communism.
538
00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:06,880
Say what you like about Eastern
Europe communist regimes,
539
00:33:06,920 --> 00:33:11,280
but they could certainly
make a statement structurally.
540
00:33:12,400 --> 00:33:15,040
Dora: It can explain
the story of its creation.
541
00:33:15,080 --> 00:33:18,200
It can be a very
interesting museum
542
00:33:18,240 --> 00:33:20,720
about history-Bulgarian history.
543
00:33:20,760 --> 00:33:26,400
And it will overcome the
trauma of the communist past.
544
00:33:38,880 --> 00:33:41,440
Deep in the forests
of upstate New York
545
00:33:41,480 --> 00:33:43,960
hides a remote island
on the Hudson river.
546
00:33:47,480 --> 00:33:51,240
And on it what appears to be
the remnants of a mighty castle.
547
00:33:54,600 --> 00:33:56,800
When you first see these ruins,
548
00:33:56,840 --> 00:34:01,760
it looks like just another castle
over a brooding Scottish loch.
549
00:34:03,360 --> 00:34:06,760
Scattered ruins sprawled
across the island,
550
00:34:06,800 --> 00:34:09,480
concealed amongst the
trees are multiple turrets
551
00:34:09,520 --> 00:34:13,400
and towers typical of a
palace or medieval castle,
552
00:34:13,440 --> 00:34:15,880
fortified with battlements
and arrow slits.
553
00:34:19,760 --> 00:34:21,680
So, what is its purpose?
554
00:34:21,720 --> 00:34:26,120
The giveaway is in the
letters along one of its walls.
555
00:34:28,880 --> 00:34:32,920
What was this impressive
fortification trying to protect?
556
00:34:32,960 --> 00:34:34,960
And why was it abandoned?
557
00:34:40,160 --> 00:34:43,600
In the year 1900, at the
centre of New York City,
558
00:34:43,640 --> 00:34:46,600
millionaire businessman
Francis bannerman vi
559
00:34:46,640 --> 00:34:49,040
ran a successful
military surplus empire.
560
00:34:50,560 --> 00:34:53,440
His store of military materials
on Broadway covered
561
00:34:53,480 --> 00:34:55,200
almost an entire block.
562
00:34:56,520 --> 00:35:01,480
But he needed a warehouse big
enough to store his explosive supplies,
563
00:35:01,520 --> 00:35:05,000
including some 30 million
munition cartridges left over
564
00:35:05,040 --> 00:35:08,520
from the Spanish-American
war of 1898.
565
00:35:10,360 --> 00:35:13,080
Neil caplan head of
bannerman castle trust
566
00:35:13,120 --> 00:35:16,400
runs this fantastical castle.
567
00:35:16,440 --> 00:35:18,880
The city did not want him
to store black powder there
568
00:35:18,920 --> 00:35:21,880
because it's very, very
volatile and just a small cup
569
00:35:21,920 --> 00:35:23,360
could blow up
an entire building.
570
00:35:25,800 --> 00:35:29,520
A solution was found 50
miles up the Hudson river
571
00:35:29,560 --> 00:35:31,880
from New York City,
572
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:34,160
on a piece of land
considered haunted
573
00:35:34,200 --> 00:35:37,400
by some native American tribes,
574
00:35:37,440 --> 00:35:40,120
the uninhabited polipol island.
575
00:35:42,160 --> 00:35:45,240
Bannerman purchased
the rocky land for $600
576
00:35:45,280 --> 00:35:49,280
and created a series of structures
to house his dangerous supplies.
577
00:35:51,440 --> 00:35:54,680
And it evolved into
this might fortress.
578
00:35:54,720 --> 00:35:58,880
Bannerman's island arsenal,
better known as bannerman's castle.
579
00:36:00,680 --> 00:36:03,160
Andrew: This is
no Scottish castle.
580
00:36:03,200 --> 00:36:08,560
It's no British stately home
or ruined French chateau,
581
00:36:08,600 --> 00:36:11,840
this is an ammunition warehouse.
582
00:36:14,160 --> 00:36:17,600
It was close enough to New
York to carry on business
583
00:36:17,640 --> 00:36:19,440
and where his lethal
catalogue of good
584
00:36:19,480 --> 00:36:21,040
wouldn't pose a threat.
585
00:36:23,880 --> 00:36:26,800
Placing his own unique
stamp on the island,
586
00:36:26,840 --> 00:36:28,760
bannerman turned
his hand to design.
587
00:36:31,680 --> 00:36:34,080
He was an amateur architect,
there were no blueprints.
588
00:36:34,120 --> 00:36:37,240
He actually drew on
napkins and on paper.
589
00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:39,000
And when he built
something, he said,
590
00:36:39,040 --> 00:36:40,600
"I want you to
build it up to here."
591
00:36:40,640 --> 00:36:42,016
And if he didn't
like it, he would say,
592
00:36:42,040 --> 00:36:43,120
"break it up
593
00:36:43,160 --> 00:36:44,536
"and put another
window in or something."
594
00:36:44,560 --> 00:36:46,200
And the whole place
was built like that.
595
00:36:48,800 --> 00:36:53,200
Work began in spring 1901,
blasting away tonnes of rock
596
00:36:53,240 --> 00:36:56,640
to create a level platform
for a three-storey warehouse.
597
00:37:00,000 --> 00:37:01,400
As business boomed,
598
00:37:01,440 --> 00:37:04,600
so too did bannerman's
island creation.
599
00:37:04,640 --> 00:37:07,680
In 1905, he constructed
two more buildings
600
00:37:07,720 --> 00:37:11,920
and a harbour wall to receive and
store his expanding arms empire.
601
00:37:14,720 --> 00:37:17,360
Rather than design
them in simple fashion,
602
00:37:17,400 --> 00:37:20,200
he wanted something
far more elaborate
603
00:37:20,240 --> 00:37:23,080
and he drew on his family
heritage for inspiration.
604
00:37:24,400 --> 00:37:27,400
If I just passed by
bannerman's castle randomly
605
00:37:27,440 --> 00:37:29,320
and I didn't know
where in the world I was,
606
00:37:29,360 --> 00:37:31,560
I'd look at the kind
of quite classic,
607
00:37:31,600 --> 00:37:35,240
you know, traditional
stone appearance of it,
608
00:37:35,280 --> 00:37:37,320
the fact that it's
quite castle-like,
609
00:37:37,360 --> 00:37:40,640
I'd think I'm in northern
Scotland somewhere.
610
00:37:40,680 --> 00:37:43,920
Andrew: Why did bannerman
design the building that he did?
611
00:37:43,960 --> 00:37:45,480
Well, he was a proud scot
612
00:37:45,520 --> 00:37:47,560
and he was paying
homage to his homeland.
613
00:37:47,600 --> 00:37:49,160
So, anything he could use
614
00:37:49,200 --> 00:37:52,120
to make the structure
look sort of castle-esque,
615
00:37:52,160 --> 00:37:54,040
that's what he wanted to do.
616
00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:59,520
His building methods
were anything but ordinary.
617
00:37:59,560 --> 00:38:02,360
To create the harbour,
he sank multiple barges
618
00:38:02,400 --> 00:38:05,320
filled with junk and rubble
to act as foundations.
619
00:38:07,440 --> 00:38:10,000
Frank bannerman was
a practical businessman
620
00:38:10,040 --> 00:38:12,640
who made his
fortune selling junk.
621
00:38:12,680 --> 00:38:13,720
What does that mean?
622
00:38:13,760 --> 00:38:15,720
It means he never
wasted a thing.
623
00:38:15,760 --> 00:38:17,480
If he couldn't
sell it, he used it.
624
00:38:17,520 --> 00:38:20,160
Old bedsteads,
pieces of battleship,
625
00:38:20,200 --> 00:38:23,560
he used them to
reinforce his building.
626
00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:31,400
Incredibly, his unconventional
approach to building also extended
627
00:38:31,440 --> 00:38:35,000
to all of the structures
on the island.
628
00:38:35,040 --> 00:38:36,576
When you think about
the way this building's
629
00:38:36,600 --> 00:38:39,880
actually been put together,
which is a complete mishmash
630
00:38:39,920 --> 00:38:43,400
of all kinds of different
materials with a bit of brick
631
00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:46,880
and a very thin layer of
concrete actually surrounding that,
632
00:38:46,920 --> 00:38:49,000
I mean, that sounds
questionable enough
633
00:38:49,040 --> 00:38:51,840
for someone to
live in or to reside in.
634
00:38:51,880 --> 00:38:54,520
But then you put
explosives in there.
635
00:38:54,560 --> 00:38:57,720
And I think that that's
quite frankly a terrible idea.
636
00:39:08,040 --> 00:39:11,160
Yet in 1908, this
structure stored
637
00:39:11,200 --> 00:39:13,160
one of the largest
private collections
638
00:39:13,200 --> 00:39:17,240
of army surplus and ammunition
ever seen in the United States.
639
00:39:18,320 --> 00:39:21,200
In this respect,
bannerman was a pioneer.
640
00:39:23,800 --> 00:39:26,040
Andrew: Army surplus
stores are everywhere today.
641
00:39:26,080 --> 00:39:27,760
But that wasn't always the case.
642
00:39:27,800 --> 00:39:30,640
It's thanks to bannerman. He's
the one who bought this stuff.
643
00:39:30,680 --> 00:39:31,760
Nobody else cared.
644
00:39:31,800 --> 00:39:34,520
And before long,
Hollywood, Broadway,
645
00:39:34,560 --> 00:39:37,920
they're turning to him and
him only for their props.
646
00:39:40,840 --> 00:39:44,000
Bannerman's military
equipment and uniforms filled
647
00:39:44,040 --> 00:39:46,280
the sets of Broadway
and Hollywood.
648
00:39:47,800 --> 00:39:50,560
But to be closer to all
this new ammunition,
649
00:39:50,600 --> 00:39:53,960
bannerman moved his family
into his own purpose-built castle.
650
00:39:56,840 --> 00:39:59,560
Its amateur construction
and explosive stock
651
00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:01,880
however was a
recipe for disaster.
652
00:40:04,000 --> 00:40:05,800
It was a ticking time-bomb.
653
00:40:06,840 --> 00:40:08,040
He realised,
654
00:40:08,080 --> 00:40:11,560
"hmm, this is not the work
"of a master craftsman.
655
00:40:11,600 --> 00:40:14,920
This has a
flavour of diy to it."
656
00:40:14,960 --> 00:40:16,640
And that's what's
so interesting.
657
00:40:16,680 --> 00:40:20,040
From a distance, impressive.
Close up, not so much.
658
00:40:23,640 --> 00:40:27,280
Roma: I love the idea of taking
scrap bits of metal and material
659
00:40:27,320 --> 00:40:30,200
and making something
fantastic out of it.
660
00:40:30,240 --> 00:40:32,120
The one thing I
wouldn't recommend
661
00:40:32,160 --> 00:40:34,160
is doing that on a structure
662
00:40:34,200 --> 00:40:36,440
because, ultimately, if
you're gonna live in there,
663
00:40:36,480 --> 00:40:37,640
it needs to stand up.
664
00:40:37,680 --> 00:40:39,360
I definitely wouldn't
want to live there.
665
00:40:41,520 --> 00:40:43,240
Francis continued building
666
00:40:43,280 --> 00:40:46,880
and enlarging the complex
until his death in 1918,
667
00:40:46,920 --> 00:40:50,240
when the business
passed to his wife Helen.
668
00:40:50,280 --> 00:40:55,440
Then on 15 August,
1920, disaster struck.
669
00:40:55,480 --> 00:40:57,440
His wife was here,
Helen bannerman.
670
00:40:57,480 --> 00:40:59,600
She was up at the residence
sitting in her hammock.
671
00:40:59,640 --> 00:41:01,680
And as soon as she got up,
672
00:41:01,720 --> 00:41:03,376
she went into the
house to get a cup a tea,
673
00:41:03,400 --> 00:41:06,800
she turned around,
and the building blew up
674
00:41:06,840 --> 00:41:08,856
and a piece of that building
went right in the hammock
675
00:41:08,880 --> 00:41:10,760
where she was sitting.
676
00:41:13,440 --> 00:41:17,480
200 pounds of black powder
stored in a munitions house
677
00:41:17,520 --> 00:41:21,120
exploded throwing a
25-foot section of wall
678
00:41:21,160 --> 00:41:24,080
across the river and
onto the railway tracks.
679
00:41:26,600 --> 00:41:29,440
Miraculously,
bannerman's castle complex
680
00:41:29,480 --> 00:41:31,200
survived the explosion.
681
00:41:33,880 --> 00:41:36,920
For 30 years, as bannerman's
business dwindled,
682
00:41:36,960 --> 00:41:39,600
his island complex
fell into disrepair.
683
00:41:42,760 --> 00:41:46,080
Then in 1969, a
catastrophic fire
684
00:41:46,120 --> 00:41:49,280
that burned for three
days sealed its fate.
685
00:41:51,800 --> 00:41:54,160
Bannerman's castle
was abandoned.
686
00:42:00,400 --> 00:42:03,840
Today, the ruins are stabilised
and bannerman's island
687
00:42:03,880 --> 00:42:06,760
has become a popular
tourist attraction,
688
00:42:06,800 --> 00:42:12,000
hosting guided tours,
theatrical events, and film nights.
689
00:42:12,040 --> 00:42:14,720
Francis bannerman's
fantasy castle continues
690
00:42:14,760 --> 00:42:17,160
to fascinate all
those who visit.
691
00:42:18,400 --> 00:42:22,240
Neil: He left an
incredible building here,
692
00:42:22,280 --> 00:42:24,560
which is an icon
all over the world.
693
00:42:24,600 --> 00:42:27,080
People come and ask
about bannerman island.
694
00:42:28,680 --> 00:42:30,056
Andrew: Clearly,
bannerman's building
695
00:42:30,080 --> 00:42:32,240
is in a state of disrepair.
696
00:42:32,280 --> 00:42:34,520
It will require
millions to restore.
697
00:42:34,560 --> 00:42:36,600
But I think we
should make the effort
698
00:42:36,640 --> 00:42:39,960
because this is a slice
of history that, frankly,
699
00:42:40,000 --> 00:42:41,360
I don't think
should be forgotten.
700
00:42:56,120 --> 00:42:57,600
Now abandoned,
701
00:42:57,640 --> 00:43:01,640
they were once on the cutting
edge of human engineering.
702
00:43:01,680 --> 00:43:06,120
Within these decaying structures
are the echoes of history.
703
00:43:06,160 --> 00:43:08,720
They speak of war and terror
704
00:43:08,760 --> 00:43:12,440
but also of exploration
and human endeavour.
705
00:43:20,400 --> 00:43:23,400
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