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Tom ward: A vast,
ornate structure
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00:00:04,440 --> 00:00:07,120
abandoned high in the
pyrenees mountains.
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00:00:08,280 --> 00:00:11,080
It's a surprising building
to find in that location.
4
00:00:12,840 --> 00:00:16,280
A wrecked research facility
in Russia's arctic tundra.
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00:00:17,320 --> 00:00:20,320
Something that looks
completely bizarre,
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00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:23,600
we actually have a window
into the interior of our planet.
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00:00:25,440 --> 00:00:30,360
A mysterious military base
lost in the American desert.
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Looks like it was hit
by an atomic bomb.
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00:00:34,680 --> 00:00:37,240
And a towering maze
of concrete beams.
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00:00:38,960 --> 00:00:41,880
So, creating these large,
flowing, beautiful shapes
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00:00:41,920 --> 00:00:43,560
is actually quite challenging.
12
00:00:46,800 --> 00:00:49,240
Once, they were some of
the most advanced structures
13
00:00:49,280 --> 00:00:52,360
and facilities on the planet,
14
00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:54,920
at the cutting edge of
design and construction.
15
00:00:56,240 --> 00:00:58,160
Today, they stand abandoned,
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00:00:58,200 --> 00:01:01,160
contaminated and
sometimes deadly.
17
00:01:02,720 --> 00:01:04,400
But who built them and how?
18
00:01:05,680 --> 00:01:07,440
And why were they abandoned?
19
00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:32,520
On the border of
France and Spain,
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00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,880
a tiny village of
just 500 people
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00:01:34,920 --> 00:01:36,800
sits in a steep-sided valley.
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00:01:43,280 --> 00:01:44,960
At this remote location,
23
00:01:45,000 --> 00:01:47,680
4,000ft up in the
pyrenees mountains,
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00:01:47,720 --> 00:01:50,720
are the remains of a
gigantic derelict structure.
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00:01:52,320 --> 00:01:56,360
Rob bell: It's a surprising
building to find in that location.
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00:01:56,400 --> 00:01:58,240
It's grand, it's
almost palatial.
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00:01:59,360 --> 00:02:00,760
And yet, there it is,
28
00:02:00,800 --> 00:02:03,920
plonked down in the middle
of the pyrenees mountains
29
00:02:03,960 --> 00:02:07,800
with not that much of
civilisation around it.
30
00:02:10,840 --> 00:02:14,440
It's neither a disused
factory nor power plant,
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00:02:14,480 --> 00:02:16,800
but rather a glass
and marble palace.
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00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,920
Its ornate three-storey facade
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00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:22,200
has 365 windows
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00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:24,120
and 156 doors...
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00:02:26,560 --> 00:02:27,960
And it stretches 800ft
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00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:29,640
along the narrow valley floor.
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00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:35,280
The idea that
anybody would build
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00:02:35,320 --> 00:02:37,400
something so grand
39
00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,920
in a place that is almost
impossible to get to,
40
00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:43,160
that is astonishing.
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00:02:44,520 --> 00:02:47,840
Immense effort has gone
into creating beautiful buildings
42
00:02:47,880 --> 00:02:50,280
with a mix of classicism
and art nouveau...
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00:02:51,360 --> 00:02:52,560
So why is it here,
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00:02:52,600 --> 00:02:54,760
isolated in the mountains?
45
00:02:54,800 --> 00:02:56,360
And why was it abandoned?
46
00:02:59,960 --> 00:03:01,440
In the mid-19th century,
47
00:03:01,480 --> 00:03:03,480
Spain was still largely cut off
48
00:03:03,520 --> 00:03:05,760
from France and
Europe by the pyrenees.
49
00:03:08,040 --> 00:03:11,600
This mountain range stretches
260 miles along the border.
50
00:03:13,920 --> 00:03:15,040
The lack of trade routes
51
00:03:15,080 --> 00:03:17,200
severely restricted
the nation's economy.
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00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:21,280
The Spanish government realised
that they desperately needed
53
00:03:21,320 --> 00:03:23,600
a transport route
through the mountains.
54
00:03:24,800 --> 00:03:27,920
The idea of a train line
55
00:03:27,960 --> 00:03:29,440
that would cross the pyrenees
56
00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:31,920
was extremely appealing,
57
00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:33,800
and when it was undertaken,
58
00:03:33,840 --> 00:03:35,560
it was a massive
engineering project.
59
00:03:35,600 --> 00:03:39,240
It was almost like a
Panama canal type of project,
60
00:03:39,280 --> 00:03:41,440
with super-long tunnels
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00:03:41,480 --> 00:03:43,760
and Bridges.
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00:03:43,800 --> 00:03:45,840
Years of very, very
challenging engineering.
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00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:51,760
The central connection
point was this,
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00:03:51,800 --> 00:03:54,720
the canfranc international
railway station.
65
00:03:57,160 --> 00:03:59,480
Building was underway in 1923.
66
00:04:01,240 --> 00:04:03,680
Its critical importance
lay in overcoming
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00:04:03,720 --> 00:04:05,960
a specific engineering
miscalculation.
68
00:04:08,680 --> 00:04:10,040
When early Spanish railways
69
00:04:10,080 --> 00:04:12,080
developed in the late 1800s,
70
00:04:12,120 --> 00:04:13,480
engineers decided to employ
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00:04:13,520 --> 00:04:16,640
a broad Gauge track of 5'5".
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00:04:20,800 --> 00:04:21,840
Yet France,
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00:04:21,880 --> 00:04:23,280
along with most of Europe,
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00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:26,640
matched the international
Gauge of 4'8.5".
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00:04:30,720 --> 00:04:33,000
It was a fateful decision.
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00:04:33,040 --> 00:04:35,240
There was no way
of physically altering
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00:04:35,280 --> 00:04:37,320
the track width or wheel Gauge.
78
00:04:40,400 --> 00:04:44,360
Spanish trains ran on
a different width of track
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00:04:44,400 --> 00:04:46,000
than French trains,
80
00:04:46,040 --> 00:04:49,560
so they had to find
a station big enough
81
00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:51,600
to unload the French trains,
82
00:04:51,640 --> 00:04:53,760
load everything onto
the Spanish trains
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00:04:53,800 --> 00:04:54,840
or vice versa.
84
00:04:57,160 --> 00:04:59,840
The only solution was
to create a transfer point
85
00:04:59,880 --> 00:05:01,720
from one track
Gauge to the other.
86
00:05:04,080 --> 00:05:05,760
So canfranc had
to be constructed
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00:05:05,800 --> 00:05:07,320
on a huge scale.
88
00:05:08,760 --> 00:05:11,080
Completed in 1928,
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00:05:11,120 --> 00:05:13,600
it was one of the longest and
highest-altitude rail stations
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00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:14,680
in Europe.
91
00:05:16,840 --> 00:05:19,640
It was dubbed the
'Titanic of the mountains'.
92
00:05:27,640 --> 00:05:31,920
By building this huge,
impressive station in the pyrenees,
93
00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:33,400
it would open up new,
94
00:05:33,440 --> 00:05:35,280
strong trade routes into France
95
00:05:35,320 --> 00:05:37,040
and then into the
whole of Europe.
96
00:05:38,640 --> 00:05:40,880
Fernando Sanchez morales
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00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:42,440
is the current
mayor of canfranc.
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00:05:57,720 --> 00:06:00,840
On 18 July, 1928,
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00:06:00,880 --> 00:06:04,400
king Alfonso of Spain formally
opened canfranc station
100
00:06:04,440 --> 00:06:08,520
and declared, "the
pyrenees no longer exist."
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00:06:11,360 --> 00:06:13,920
With border protection,
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00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:16,600
a hotel, restaurants
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00:06:16,640 --> 00:06:19,000
and 2,000 staff,
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00:06:19,040 --> 00:06:22,480
canfranc rivalled any of
the major stations of Europe.
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00:06:24,080 --> 00:06:27,680
Spain, they think,
has finally arrived
106
00:06:27,720 --> 00:06:29,480
and is once again
a player in Europe.
107
00:06:31,360 --> 00:06:34,240
But dark clouds loomed
large on the horizon.
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00:06:35,680 --> 00:06:37,000
A year later,
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00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:39,880
the wall street crash
sparked the great depression
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00:06:39,920 --> 00:06:41,560
and, by 1936,
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00:06:41,600 --> 00:06:43,240
king Alfonso was in exile,
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00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,520
with Spain in the grip
of a bloody civil war.
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00:06:47,960 --> 00:06:50,880
Rebel nationalist leader
general Franco ordered
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00:06:50,920 --> 00:06:53,200
the vital somport
tunnel be blocked
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00:06:53,240 --> 00:06:54,320
to prevent arms reaching
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00:06:54,360 --> 00:06:55,880
the republican government.
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Canfranc becomes the last stop
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00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,720
on a railway to nowhere.
119
00:07:04,360 --> 00:07:06,840
The canfranc station
had the misfortune
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00:07:06,880 --> 00:07:11,040
of sitting right on kind
of a geopolitical fault line.
121
00:07:11,080 --> 00:07:13,640
Tunnels were closed for a time
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00:07:13,680 --> 00:07:15,560
then because the
Spanish government
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00:07:15,600 --> 00:07:18,040
was afraid of people
smuggling in supplies.
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00:07:19,320 --> 00:07:21,280
The station was commandeered
125
00:07:21,320 --> 00:07:22,520
by Franco's army
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00:07:22,560 --> 00:07:25,400
as the Spanish general
employed the help of Adolf Hitler
127
00:07:25,440 --> 00:07:27,960
to quash republican
and communist forces.
128
00:07:29,680 --> 00:07:31,520
For Hitler, it provided an arena
129
00:07:31,560 --> 00:07:33,560
to test out his latest weapons,
130
00:07:33,600 --> 00:07:35,320
armoured units and planes
131
00:07:35,360 --> 00:07:37,880
of his newly created luftwaffe.
132
00:07:41,000 --> 00:07:42,640
In 1939,
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00:07:42,680 --> 00:07:43,800
Franco secured victory
134
00:07:43,840 --> 00:07:47,280
and established himself
as fascist dictator.
135
00:07:48,280 --> 00:07:50,320
The station reopened,
136
00:07:50,360 --> 00:07:54,320
but its tumultuous
existence was set to continue.
137
00:07:55,760 --> 00:07:58,080
A flood of Jews and refugees,
138
00:07:58,120 --> 00:08:00,640
fleeing persecution
of Nazi Germany,
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00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:02,280
passed south
through the station.
140
00:08:03,680 --> 00:08:05,640
Ironically, at the same time,
141
00:08:05,680 --> 00:08:09,000
Franco sent shipments of
supplies through canfranc
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00:08:09,040 --> 00:08:12,080
to help feed
Hitler's war machine.
143
00:08:12,120 --> 00:08:14,920
Gold and metals for
the production of arms
144
00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:16,480
poured through the mountains
145
00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:17,640
and across the border.
146
00:08:20,800 --> 00:08:22,936
When the Nazis invaded
France in the second world war,
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00:08:22,960 --> 00:08:24,680
canfranc station provided
148
00:08:24,720 --> 00:08:27,560
a really important railway link
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00:08:27,600 --> 00:08:30,280
for Jewish refugees
escaping France into Spain.
150
00:08:33,560 --> 00:08:35,480
But going the other way,
151
00:08:35,520 --> 00:08:38,520
it also provided a
route for the Germans
152
00:08:38,560 --> 00:08:41,320
to export gold ore
153
00:08:41,360 --> 00:08:43,280
from Spain into France
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00:08:43,320 --> 00:08:45,240
and effectively into
the German reich.
155
00:08:47,480 --> 00:08:48,800
It was also a through-route
156
00:08:48,840 --> 00:08:51,480
for agents engaged
in acts of espionage.
157
00:08:54,120 --> 00:08:56,560
This train line was a vital link
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00:08:56,600 --> 00:08:58,480
between southern France
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00:08:58,520 --> 00:09:00,200
and, essentially,
the outside world.
160
00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:01,560
It allowed
161
00:09:01,600 --> 00:09:03,480
supplies and information,
162
00:09:03,520 --> 00:09:05,920
travel, to the
French resistance.
163
00:09:05,960 --> 00:09:09,040
They were even used
for some spy missions,
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00:09:09,080 --> 00:09:14,640
where some very brave young women
would carry packages of information
165
00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:15,720
out to Spain,
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00:09:15,760 --> 00:09:18,480
where they would
ultimately be delivered on
167
00:09:18,520 --> 00:09:20,440
to the allies in britain.
168
00:09:23,160 --> 00:09:25,600
In a final twist of irony,
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00:09:25,640 --> 00:09:27,400
as the war progressed,
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00:09:27,440 --> 00:09:29,840
canfranc became
a key escape route,
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00:09:29,880 --> 00:09:31,240
not for Jews,
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00:09:31,280 --> 00:09:32,360
but Nazis.
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00:09:34,120 --> 00:09:36,360
With defeat appearing
ever more inevitable
174
00:09:36,400 --> 00:09:37,920
through 1945,
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00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:40,560
Nazi leaders flooded through,
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00:09:40,600 --> 00:09:42,720
carrying tonnes of looted gold.
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00:09:44,520 --> 00:09:49,880
Because almost the only way
to get from France into Spain
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00:09:49,920 --> 00:09:53,200
and onto a ship to
somewhere else in the world,
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00:09:53,240 --> 00:09:58,280
because that requires you
to get off the train at canfranc,
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00:09:58,320 --> 00:10:00,360
to walk through
canfranc station...
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00:10:01,640 --> 00:10:03,520
That one facility
182
00:10:03,560 --> 00:10:07,440
becomes a route for evil people
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00:10:07,480 --> 00:10:10,800
to get away and seek safety
184
00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:11,920
in South America.
185
00:10:15,480 --> 00:10:16,680
After the war,
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00:10:16,720 --> 00:10:19,600
with just a trickle of
international passengers,
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00:10:19,640 --> 00:10:21,560
the majestic halls of canfranc
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00:10:21,600 --> 00:10:23,640
grew more and more
shabby and neglected.
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00:10:26,360 --> 00:10:29,320
And 42 years after
it opened its doors,
190
00:10:29,360 --> 00:10:31,920
it was forced to
shut down for good.
191
00:10:34,480 --> 00:10:35,920
As vital as it was,
192
00:10:35,960 --> 00:10:37,880
the rail line was
never profitable.
193
00:10:37,920 --> 00:10:40,480
And then in 1970, there
was a train accident
194
00:10:40,520 --> 00:10:42,600
that destroyed
one of the Bridges.
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00:10:42,640 --> 00:10:43,640
They never rebuilt it.
196
00:10:43,680 --> 00:10:45,800
I think it became
kind of an excuse
197
00:10:45,840 --> 00:10:48,800
to let the rail line
just fall into decay.
198
00:10:50,640 --> 00:10:51,800
Because by that time,
199
00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:55,080
air travel was becoming
more affordable,
200
00:10:55,120 --> 00:10:56,160
highways were better,
201
00:10:56,200 --> 00:10:57,480
trucks were better,
202
00:10:57,520 --> 00:10:59,080
they had more alternatives
203
00:10:59,120 --> 00:11:01,200
to this very
difficult railroad line.
204
00:11:02,280 --> 00:11:04,240
With the rail
line out of action,
205
00:11:04,280 --> 00:11:07,040
canfranc was
abandoned in the 1970s
206
00:11:07,080 --> 00:11:08,240
and left to rust.
207
00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:17,800
Today, the station's opulence
and grandeur remain for all to see.
208
00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:22,520
A lot of travellers
wanna make a pilgrimage
209
00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:25,280
to see this
magnificent train station
210
00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:27,680
and there's something
poignant about
211
00:11:27,720 --> 00:11:31,440
people working so hard on
some ambitious technology
212
00:11:31,480 --> 00:11:34,280
and infrastructure
that never quite works
213
00:11:34,320 --> 00:11:36,480
and then it has to be abandoned
214
00:11:36,520 --> 00:11:39,560
and it just kind of
slowly rots away.
215
00:12:00,160 --> 00:12:02,920
We may never truly
know which Nazis
216
00:12:02,960 --> 00:12:05,680
and what treasures passed
through these platforms.
217
00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:08,880
Those secrets may
forever stay hidden
218
00:12:08,920 --> 00:12:11,120
in the shadows of the
pyrenees mountains.
219
00:12:12,760 --> 00:12:14,360
But canfranc station
220
00:12:14,400 --> 00:12:17,600
may yet live to see another day.
221
00:12:21,160 --> 00:12:24,000
Around 2,500 miles northeast,
222
00:12:24,040 --> 00:12:25,680
on the kola peninsula
223
00:12:25,720 --> 00:12:27,680
where Russia meets Norway,
224
00:12:27,720 --> 00:12:29,520
is a deserted industrial site.
225
00:12:37,320 --> 00:12:39,280
A cluster of
dilapidated buildings
226
00:12:39,320 --> 00:12:40,680
is surrounded by lakes
227
00:12:40,720 --> 00:12:43,480
and forgotten in this
barren arctic tundra.
228
00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:50,280
The only living
creatures to be seen
229
00:12:50,320 --> 00:12:52,680
are arctic rabbits
taking shelter
230
00:12:52,720 --> 00:12:53,800
amongst the debris.
231
00:12:57,040 --> 00:12:59,640
Well, the kola peninsula
is extremely remote.
232
00:12:59,680 --> 00:13:02,800
It's very, very far north,
almost to the north pole.
233
00:13:05,520 --> 00:13:06,880
Ruined concrete buildings
234
00:13:06,920 --> 00:13:09,000
are littered with
twisted wreckage
235
00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:10,400
and smashed equipment.
236
00:13:12,760 --> 00:13:14,920
And at the centre
of all this carnage,
237
00:13:14,960 --> 00:13:17,400
one building appears to
have been ripped apart.
238
00:13:20,720 --> 00:13:23,640
There's all of these
buildings, partly derelict.
239
00:13:23,680 --> 00:13:24,720
What was going on here?
240
00:13:24,760 --> 00:13:27,160
Was it some sort of
concentration camp?
241
00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:29,480
Was it some sort
of military base?
242
00:13:31,320 --> 00:13:32,560
So, what took place
243
00:13:32,600 --> 00:13:34,440
in this bleak and
inhospitable corner
244
00:13:34,480 --> 00:13:36,080
of Russia's arctic north?
245
00:13:38,240 --> 00:13:40,360
And why was this site abandoned?
246
00:13:45,280 --> 00:13:46,520
In the 1960s,
247
00:13:46,560 --> 00:13:48,160
the Soviet union was embroiled
248
00:13:48,200 --> 00:13:50,200
in a military and
technological race
249
00:13:50,240 --> 00:13:51,840
with its ideological Nemesis,
250
00:13:51,880 --> 00:13:53,200
the United States.
251
00:13:56,080 --> 00:13:57,840
The cold war was played out
252
00:13:57,880 --> 00:14:01,040
in a nuclear arms
race and a space race,
253
00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:03,200
but they were also
engaged in a race
254
00:14:03,240 --> 00:14:05,080
to better understand
our own planet.
255
00:14:06,920 --> 00:14:09,440
A scientific investigation
of the geology
256
00:14:09,480 --> 00:14:12,320
hidden thousands of feet
beneath the earth's surface.
257
00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:14,440
At the moment,
258
00:14:14,480 --> 00:14:16,320
the way that we
look inside the earth
259
00:14:16,360 --> 00:14:18,080
is through what we
call seismic waves.
260
00:14:18,120 --> 00:14:21,200
You make a big explosion
on the earth's surface
261
00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:23,880
and we see the way the
shockwaves travel into the earth
262
00:14:23,920 --> 00:14:24,920
and back out again.
263
00:14:24,960 --> 00:14:28,080
And we come up with
structures, we find barriers in there.
264
00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:30,080
But what are they?
265
00:14:30,120 --> 00:14:31,160
In the '60s and '70s,
266
00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:34,720
there was this huge fascination
with the structure of the earth
267
00:14:34,760 --> 00:14:35,920
and trying to figure out
268
00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:37,976
if you could drill down
through the earth's crust,
269
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:39,880
the top layer, into the mantle,
270
00:14:39,920 --> 00:14:42,160
which is the soft
kind of plastic layer
271
00:14:42,200 --> 00:14:43,320
that lies under the crust.
272
00:14:43,360 --> 00:14:45,840
It was almost like a
subterranean space race,
273
00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:48,080
who could get down
the deepest first?
274
00:14:52,120 --> 00:14:55,680
This complex is the site
of an extraordinary project
275
00:14:55,720 --> 00:14:58,960
to uncover the secrets of the
earth's geological structure.
276
00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:03,400
This is the kola
superdeep borehole.
277
00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:09,480
Just nine inches in diameter,
278
00:15:09,520 --> 00:15:11,520
this simple and
unremarkable metal lid
279
00:15:11,560 --> 00:15:14,440
opened a new scientific frontier
280
00:15:14,480 --> 00:15:18,360
and it was undertaken in
direct competition with the usa.
281
00:15:20,280 --> 00:15:23,520
In the '60s, the Americans
had started a project
282
00:15:23,560 --> 00:15:25,280
called mohole
283
00:15:25,320 --> 00:15:27,440
to try to dig down
through the crust.
284
00:15:27,480 --> 00:15:30,120
They didn't get very
far, but they learned a lot.
285
00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:32,600
On Guadalupe island, Mexico,
286
00:15:32,640 --> 00:15:34,560
American geologists penetrated
287
00:15:34,600 --> 00:15:37,160
just 601ft into the seabed...
288
00:15:38,880 --> 00:15:41,320
Though this was 11,600ft
289
00:15:41,360 --> 00:15:42,840
beneath the
surface of the water.
290
00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:46,920
The Russians, however,
were aiming to achieve
291
00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:48,880
more than four times that depth.
292
00:15:50,120 --> 00:15:53,600
Their main target
was to hit 15,000m
293
00:15:53,640 --> 00:15:55,640
or 49,000ft.
294
00:15:57,040 --> 00:15:59,320
And then the Russians
came back in 1970
295
00:15:59,360 --> 00:16:01,200
with this superdeep borehole.
296
00:16:02,880 --> 00:16:05,280
Drilling in this cold
location gave them
297
00:16:05,320 --> 00:16:07,200
one distinct advantage.
298
00:16:10,720 --> 00:16:14,960
The kola peninsula sits in
an area of very, very old crust,
299
00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:16,320
it's called a shield,
300
00:16:16,360 --> 00:16:17,680
really old crust,
301
00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:19,440
and what's important there
302
00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:22,800
is that the temperature
increase as you go with depth
303
00:16:22,840 --> 00:16:24,400
is very light,
304
00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:26,200
so you have much more chance
305
00:16:26,240 --> 00:16:28,840
of getting deeper
before it gets too hot.
306
00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:36,000
Could the Soviets dig
deeper into the earth's crust
307
00:16:36,040 --> 00:16:38,240
than humans had
ever managed before?
308
00:16:46,120 --> 00:16:48,000
Construction of
this desolate facility
309
00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:49,720
began in 1965...
310
00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:52,200
And in may 1970,
311
00:16:52,240 --> 00:16:53,680
drilling was underway.
312
00:16:55,560 --> 00:16:57,360
The prize for Soviet engineers
313
00:16:57,400 --> 00:16:59,480
was not just outdoing the usa.
314
00:17:00,640 --> 00:17:03,360
It was gaining
new geological data
315
00:17:03,400 --> 00:17:05,200
and access to the
earth's resources.
316
00:17:06,840 --> 00:17:09,640
Despite its extreme
and remote location,
317
00:17:09,680 --> 00:17:12,360
this base offered them
the best chance of success.
318
00:17:20,280 --> 00:17:21,800
This is a very
out-of-the-way place.
319
00:17:21,840 --> 00:17:22,880
They had to bring
320
00:17:22,920 --> 00:17:25,440
in all the materials
and expertise,
321
00:17:25,480 --> 00:17:27,120
but the Soviet
union did a lot of that.
322
00:17:27,160 --> 00:17:29,640
They were good at infrastructure
323
00:17:29,680 --> 00:17:31,600
and building big,
324
00:17:31,640 --> 00:17:34,520
sophisticated bases
in remote locations.
325
00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:36,520
Sergei nesterenko
326
00:17:36,560 --> 00:17:37,920
is a Russian engineer
327
00:17:37,960 --> 00:17:40,480
and experienced drilling
this challenging borehole.
328
00:17:56,960 --> 00:17:58,640
The first problem
they encountered
329
00:17:58,680 --> 00:18:00,280
was one of basic physics.
330
00:18:01,400 --> 00:18:03,920
The borehole was only
nine inches in diameter,
331
00:18:05,200 --> 00:18:08,720
but the immense torque created
by having to turn drill tubing
332
00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:10,640
that weighed over
a million pounds
333
00:18:10,680 --> 00:18:12,160
made the task impossible.
334
00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:18,160
Soviet engineers turned
to a radical new solution...
335
00:18:19,400 --> 00:18:21,080
An annular-shaped core drill.
336
00:18:22,800 --> 00:18:23,936
The technology with drilling
337
00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:25,496
is you actually
just have the drill bit
338
00:18:25,520 --> 00:18:26,880
at the end and moving.
339
00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:29,720
You force mud and other things
down to keep this thing moving
340
00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:32,840
and that's where it's
grinding away at the rock.
341
00:18:32,880 --> 00:18:34,880
And in between,
you can take out,
342
00:18:34,920 --> 00:18:37,600
essentially, the shaft of
rock, what we call the core,
343
00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:39,240
and look at the
structure of the earth.
344
00:18:40,880 --> 00:18:43,040
As they ground
deeper and deeper,
345
00:18:43,080 --> 00:18:44,560
the drilling process became
346
00:18:44,600 --> 00:18:46,320
ever more fraught
with difficulty.
347
00:18:48,920 --> 00:18:50,120
The deeper you drill,
348
00:18:50,160 --> 00:18:52,760
the harder it is to manage
the drilling process.
349
00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:54,680
Equipment can get
stuck in the hole,
350
00:18:54,720 --> 00:18:56,040
the temperatures
get really high,
351
00:18:56,080 --> 00:18:58,320
the rock doesn't
behave properly.
352
00:18:58,360 --> 00:19:00,680
So this was a huge
technological achievement
353
00:19:00,720 --> 00:19:01,760
for its day.
354
00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:19,920
For over a decade,
355
00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:22,920
they drilled into the
crust using a 200-tonne,
356
00:19:22,960 --> 00:19:25,040
200ft-high drilling machine
357
00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:27,200
housed in a huge yellow tower
358
00:19:27,240 --> 00:19:28,960
in the centre of
the borehole site.
359
00:19:33,800 --> 00:19:36,120
Drilling deep into the
earth's crust at an average
360
00:19:36,160 --> 00:19:38,520
of 196ft a month
361
00:19:38,560 --> 00:19:40,880
wore out 25 miles of piping
362
00:19:40,920 --> 00:19:42,680
simply from the
friction and heat.
363
00:19:45,400 --> 00:19:47,160
Despite these difficulties,
364
00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:50,040
kola became the
deepest hole in the world,
365
00:19:50,080 --> 00:19:52,800
reaching an astonishing 39,000ft
366
00:19:52,840 --> 00:19:53,880
below the surface.
367
00:19:56,880 --> 00:19:59,600
Dan dickrell: The borehole
beat the world record in 1979.
368
00:19:59,640 --> 00:20:02,320
It was almost 40,000ft
below the surface,
369
00:20:02,360 --> 00:20:05,000
which is an amazingly deep
distance when you think about it.
370
00:20:05,040 --> 00:20:06,720
The marianas trench,
371
00:20:06,760 --> 00:20:08,720
which is the deepest
place in the ocean,
372
00:20:08,760 --> 00:20:10,400
is not even near that deep.
373
00:20:12,120 --> 00:20:13,920
As news of the incredible depths
374
00:20:13,960 --> 00:20:16,360
being reached by the
kola site was released...
375
00:20:17,840 --> 00:20:20,080
Rumours about its
discoveries began to spread.
376
00:20:22,440 --> 00:20:25,200
The fact that the borehole
had been dug so deeply
377
00:20:25,240 --> 00:20:27,640
was used to create a hoax,
378
00:20:27,680 --> 00:20:29,240
which was called
the 'well to hell'.
379
00:20:30,320 --> 00:20:32,616
You listened really close and
put a microphone underneath,
380
00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:34,320
you could actually
hear people screaming.
381
00:20:39,400 --> 00:20:41,600
This was later debunked
as a complete hoax
382
00:20:41,640 --> 00:20:44,680
but the fact that the
hole goes so deeply
383
00:20:44,720 --> 00:20:46,200
ignited people's imagination.
384
00:20:49,440 --> 00:20:50,880
Drilling continued down
385
00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:53,640
to more than 39,500ft...
386
00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:58,480
At which point drilling
was suspended for a year.
387
00:20:58,520 --> 00:21:00,480
This led to catastrophe.
388
00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:02,040
When work resumed,
389
00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:03,480
the drill twisted off.
390
00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:06,560
16,000ft of drill pipe
391
00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:08,840
had to be
abandoned in its shaft.
392
00:21:10,840 --> 00:21:11,880
When you're drilling
393
00:21:11,920 --> 00:21:13,200
so deep into the earth's crust,
394
00:21:13,240 --> 00:21:15,920
you're actually miles away
from where you are on the surface
395
00:21:15,960 --> 00:21:17,256
and you're drilling
and drilling away.
396
00:21:17,280 --> 00:21:18,280
That's one thing.
397
00:21:18,320 --> 00:21:20,360
If you then take
the drill bit out
398
00:21:20,400 --> 00:21:21,896
and then you try
and re-enter the hole,
399
00:21:21,920 --> 00:21:24,520
that's when it can cause
many, many problems.
400
00:21:24,560 --> 00:21:26,280
It's like trying to
find that needle
401
00:21:26,320 --> 00:21:29,280
in a haystack down to
where you were drilling before
402
00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,160
and the drill bit
itself can get stuck
403
00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:32,800
and you can break
the drill string.
404
00:21:32,840 --> 00:21:33,840
And in this instance,
405
00:21:33,880 --> 00:21:36,160
thousands of feet of
drill string were broken.
406
00:21:37,960 --> 00:21:40,440
Engineers now had
to start a new hole
407
00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,720
from an offshoot
408
00:21:41,760 --> 00:21:43,920
at 23,300ft.
409
00:21:49,040 --> 00:21:50,360
It took another five years
410
00:21:50,400 --> 00:21:53,160
to borehole down
to the amazing depth
411
00:21:53,200 --> 00:21:56,040
of 40,230ft.
412
00:21:57,680 --> 00:21:59,240
But at this incredible depth,
413
00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:01,360
drilling became
practically impossible.
414
00:22:05,680 --> 00:22:09,600
The Soviets discover that, when
you get far enough underground,
415
00:22:09,640 --> 00:22:12,040
the rocks are no longer rocks.
416
00:22:14,840 --> 00:22:15,960
'Cause as you go down,
417
00:22:16,000 --> 00:22:17,360
it starts getting hotter
418
00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:20,120
and, as it gets hotter, it's
harder for the equipment,
419
00:22:20,160 --> 00:22:22,280
for your drill
equipment to hold up,
420
00:22:22,320 --> 00:22:25,800
but also the rock itself
begins to get a little bit soft,
421
00:22:25,840 --> 00:22:28,360
it begins to flow a
little bit like silly putty.
422
00:22:32,320 --> 00:22:34,320
With their equipment
failing rapidly
423
00:22:34,360 --> 00:22:36,920
as they encountered
staggeringly high temperatures,
424
00:22:36,960 --> 00:22:39,520
the engineers at
kola had no option
425
00:22:39,560 --> 00:22:40,640
but to halt drilling.
426
00:22:44,560 --> 00:22:47,360
Though they failed to
reach their target depth,
427
00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:50,120
they pushed scientific
knowledge of the earth's structure
428
00:22:50,160 --> 00:22:51,960
further than ever before
429
00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:54,040
and made astonishing
discoveries.
430
00:22:57,760 --> 00:23:01,280
One thing that surprised them was
they discovered a lot of water deep,
431
00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:02,880
deep down in the borehole,
432
00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:05,240
way below where you
would find groundwater
433
00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:07,120
or any effects of ocean water.
434
00:23:08,160 --> 00:23:09,216
Dan dickrell:
Scientists also found
435
00:23:09,240 --> 00:23:11,456
there was a tremendous amount
of hydrogen trapped in the rocks,
436
00:23:11,480 --> 00:23:13,200
which was completely unexpected.
437
00:23:13,240 --> 00:23:14,920
They theorised it
came from water
438
00:23:14,960 --> 00:23:16,720
that had been
squeezed so strongly
439
00:23:16,760 --> 00:23:19,280
that it actually
released hydrogen gas.
440
00:23:19,320 --> 00:23:21,320
They're not the only
discoveries they made.
441
00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:32,000
The micro-fossils
found that deep
442
00:23:32,040 --> 00:23:33,880
were actually
single-celled organisms
443
00:23:33,920 --> 00:23:35,440
that had existed long, long ago
444
00:23:35,480 --> 00:23:37,480
and scientists were
very surprised that
445
00:23:37,520 --> 00:23:40,800
life could even exist or
could be found that deeply.
446
00:23:42,200 --> 00:23:43,720
The kola borehole managed
447
00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:45,880
to penetrate nearly
a third of the way
448
00:23:45,920 --> 00:23:47,840
through the baltic
continental crust.
449
00:23:49,920 --> 00:23:52,720
It is the deepest
artificial point on earth,
450
00:23:52,760 --> 00:23:54,520
a record it still holds today.
451
00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:57,720
Due to a lack of funding,
452
00:23:57,760 --> 00:24:01,120
however, Russia
closed the facility in 2005.
453
00:24:04,800 --> 00:24:05,920
Today,
454
00:24:05,960 --> 00:24:07,640
a simple welded steel plate
455
00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:10,360
is the only sign that
the world's deepest hole
456
00:24:10,400 --> 00:24:11,880
lies directly beneath your feet.
457
00:24:15,120 --> 00:24:16,216
You wouldn't necessarily know,
458
00:24:16,240 --> 00:24:19,680
but you could be standing
on that little metal plinth,
459
00:24:19,720 --> 00:24:21,120
that beneath you,
460
00:24:21,160 --> 00:24:23,240
there's more than
seven miles of knowledge
461
00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:25,160
of what's going on
inside the earth's surface.
462
00:24:26,320 --> 00:24:28,080
And that, to me,
is really fascinating.
463
00:24:28,120 --> 00:24:30,720
From something that
looks completely bizarre,
464
00:24:30,760 --> 00:24:32,400
we actually have a window
465
00:24:32,440 --> 00:24:34,400
into the interior of our planet.
466
00:24:39,760 --> 00:24:41,920
Nearly 5,500 miles to the west,
467
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:43,600
in southern California,
468
00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:44,760
is the salton sea...
469
00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,520
A shallow, saline body of water
470
00:24:48,560 --> 00:24:51,120
that covers 350 square miles
471
00:24:51,160 --> 00:24:52,880
of the Colorado desert
472
00:24:52,920 --> 00:24:55,200
and lies directly on
the San Andreas fault.
473
00:24:58,240 --> 00:25:00,120
It's an extraordinary feature
474
00:25:00,160 --> 00:25:01,920
of the California desert,
475
00:25:01,960 --> 00:25:04,720
a 30-mile-long lake
476
00:25:04,760 --> 00:25:06,960
in middle of the wilderness.
477
00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:09,920
On the northeast corner,
478
00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:11,480
sun-bleached timbers
479
00:25:11,520 --> 00:25:13,000
reveal the remains
of an old dock
480
00:25:13,040 --> 00:25:15,080
half-buried in the desert sand.
481
00:25:17,240 --> 00:25:19,120
Rotting fish strewn
along the beach
482
00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:21,400
fill the air with
the smell of death.
483
00:25:23,360 --> 00:25:27,480
You have desolation
and, basically, decay.
484
00:25:27,520 --> 00:25:28,800
It's like a graveyard.
485
00:25:30,840 --> 00:25:34,360
A solitary building has
been blasted by the elements
486
00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:36,480
and its crumbling remains
487
00:25:36,520 --> 00:25:38,000
overlook the Sandy shore.
488
00:25:41,800 --> 00:25:44,160
But occasionally revealed
by the morning sands
489
00:25:44,200 --> 00:25:46,560
are broken concrete roadways,
490
00:25:46,600 --> 00:25:48,680
half-buried bunkers,
491
00:25:48,720 --> 00:25:52,160
the foundations of
long vanished buildings
492
00:25:52,200 --> 00:25:55,160
and two 4,000ft-long runways.
493
00:26:01,040 --> 00:26:03,360
There's dead fish
along the shoreline.
494
00:26:05,240 --> 00:26:06,880
It's one of the most famous
495
00:26:06,920 --> 00:26:09,240
post-apocalyptic landscapes
496
00:26:09,280 --> 00:26:10,680
in all of the United States.
497
00:26:12,880 --> 00:26:15,800
Why was this mysterious
installation built
498
00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:18,720
in such a remote and
hostile area of desert?
499
00:26:19,760 --> 00:26:21,680
And why was it abandoned?
500
00:26:25,920 --> 00:26:28,080
In December 1944,
501
00:26:28,120 --> 00:26:30,320
teams of scientists
began arriving
502
00:26:30,360 --> 00:26:32,520
at an air station just
south of salton city.
503
00:26:34,240 --> 00:26:36,960
They were part
of a vital mission,
504
00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:40,080
to beat Nazi Germany in the
race to develop the atom bomb.
505
00:26:41,960 --> 00:26:45,960
While us forces were
embroiled in a bloody pacific war,
506
00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:49,040
the joint army-Navy z-46 group
507
00:26:49,080 --> 00:26:51,360
started conducting
classified tests.
508
00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:55,320
Codenamed 'project y',
509
00:26:55,360 --> 00:26:56,760
this mission to design
510
00:26:56,800 --> 00:27:00,440
and build the first atomic weapons
was part of the Manhattan project.
511
00:27:01,920 --> 00:27:04,720
Salton sea was chosen
as a key location.
512
00:27:08,280 --> 00:27:11,880
The salton sea was ideal
for the Manhattan project
513
00:27:11,920 --> 00:27:13,880
and its aerodynamic testing.
514
00:27:13,920 --> 00:27:15,600
It was for two reasons.
515
00:27:15,640 --> 00:27:17,680
It was completely isolated
516
00:27:17,720 --> 00:27:20,480
and, two, that
afforded it secrecy.
517
00:27:22,960 --> 00:27:26,840
In the middle of more than
20,000 acres of barren desert,
518
00:27:26,880 --> 00:27:30,160
this site became a
top-secret testing range,
519
00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:33,440
the results of which remain
largely classified to this day.
520
00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:37,840
Leon lesicka is a local resident
521
00:27:37,880 --> 00:27:40,160
and his brother worked
as a security guard
522
00:27:40,200 --> 00:27:41,400
at the testing site.
523
00:27:44,280 --> 00:27:47,400
They did a lot of practice here,
524
00:27:47,440 --> 00:27:49,920
which was pretty secretive.
525
00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:51,240
In fact, very secretive.
526
00:27:52,800 --> 00:27:55,920
You will not see
anything as demanding
527
00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:58,120
of coordination, cooperation
528
00:27:58,160 --> 00:28:00,920
and integration across industry,
529
00:28:00,960 --> 00:28:02,800
academia and the military
530
00:28:02,840 --> 00:28:04,040
as the Manhattan project.
531
00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:07,640
The tests undertaken
at this location
532
00:28:07,680 --> 00:28:09,800
were coordinated from here,
533
00:28:09,840 --> 00:28:12,760
the naval auxiliary
air station, salton sea.
534
00:28:17,040 --> 00:28:19,080
Codenamed 'Sandy beach'...
535
00:28:20,160 --> 00:28:23,320
This was an ideal site
for testing the ballistic
536
00:28:23,360 --> 00:28:26,920
and aerodynamic behaviour
of different bomb designs.
537
00:28:32,880 --> 00:28:37,160
If you're going to drop the
most powerful bombs ever,
538
00:28:37,200 --> 00:28:39,000
you have to be
absolutely certain
539
00:28:39,040 --> 00:28:40,480
you're dropping
them with precision.
540
00:28:43,800 --> 00:28:45,520
America's atomic bombs
541
00:28:45,560 --> 00:28:48,880
were designed to be dropped
by b-29 superfortresses.
542
00:28:50,240 --> 00:28:52,360
From 31,000ft,
543
00:28:52,400 --> 00:28:55,760
they exploded
2,000ft above ground.
544
00:28:55,800 --> 00:28:58,800
Teams of observers
had just 43 seconds
545
00:28:58,840 --> 00:29:00,800
to assess the
performance of each bomb
546
00:29:00,840 --> 00:29:02,480
before it crashed into the sea.
547
00:29:04,680 --> 00:29:07,760
Telemetry was used to
assess data relating everything
548
00:29:07,800 --> 00:29:11,080
from pressure and
temperature to vibration
549
00:29:11,120 --> 00:29:12,160
and to acceleration.
550
00:29:14,560 --> 00:29:18,040
You have almost no
cloud cover in a desert,
551
00:29:18,080 --> 00:29:20,320
so if you drop a
bomb in daylight,
552
00:29:20,360 --> 00:29:23,480
you can see exactly
where that thing is.
553
00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:29,280
That's the target out there
that they used to try to hit,
554
00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:31,600
about 1.5 miles out there.
555
00:29:34,800 --> 00:29:37,760
Although it was 400ft
away from the base,
556
00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:41,560
the target was practically
invisible to the b-29 bombers above.
557
00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:46,880
Pilots had to be able to
drop their bombs accurately,
558
00:29:46,920 --> 00:29:49,480
otherwise they would not
survive a real bomb run.
559
00:29:51,280 --> 00:29:53,240
A high-pressure
blast wave travelling
560
00:29:53,280 --> 00:29:55,080
at 1,100ft per second
561
00:29:55,120 --> 00:29:56,760
would knock them out of the sky.
562
00:29:59,560 --> 00:30:01,840
By 1944/'45,
563
00:30:01,880 --> 00:30:03,840
they're doing a vast amount
564
00:30:03,880 --> 00:30:06,160
of ballistics testing,
565
00:30:06,200 --> 00:30:10,720
because a very slight
modification in the shape
566
00:30:10,760 --> 00:30:14,240
or length of a
bomb on the tail fins
567
00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:16,040
can affect the performance.
568
00:30:17,280 --> 00:30:18,640
Andrew gough: Salton sea base
569
00:30:18,680 --> 00:30:20,320
became ground zero
570
00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:21,880
for the dropping
571
00:30:21,920 --> 00:30:25,600
of five-tonne concrete bombs.
572
00:30:25,640 --> 00:30:27,640
This is where the
testing took place,
573
00:30:27,680 --> 00:30:30,040
supposedly, for Hiroshima.
574
00:30:34,560 --> 00:30:36,840
By the summer of 1945,
575
00:30:36,880 --> 00:30:40,560
still unable to test a
live warhead at this site,
576
00:30:40,600 --> 00:30:42,440
the trials at salton sea
577
00:30:42,480 --> 00:30:44,200
were critical to demonstrating
578
00:30:44,240 --> 00:30:47,080
that the weapons would
hit their targets first time.
579
00:30:52,040 --> 00:30:55,240
You had aircraft that
had automatic cameras
580
00:30:55,280 --> 00:30:58,120
and, when they're
dropping live bombs,
581
00:30:58,160 --> 00:31:00,880
you can see where
every bomb falls
582
00:31:00,920 --> 00:31:04,040
and then survey and
Mark that spot exactly,
583
00:31:04,080 --> 00:31:08,200
and you might even be able
to recover the bomb itself.
584
00:31:08,240 --> 00:31:10,000
Scientists and engineers
585
00:31:10,040 --> 00:31:11,760
are testing over and over again,
586
00:31:11,800 --> 00:31:12,920
to make sure
587
00:31:12,960 --> 00:31:15,480
that the electronic components
588
00:31:15,520 --> 00:31:19,480
that are going to make
all of that technology turn
589
00:31:19,520 --> 00:31:21,720
into the most powerful blast
590
00:31:21,760 --> 00:31:23,880
the world had ever seen
591
00:31:23,920 --> 00:31:26,360
and work exactly as advertised
592
00:31:26,400 --> 00:31:28,080
and exactly the
way the engineers
593
00:31:28,120 --> 00:31:31,080
and the scientists
want it to go.
594
00:31:34,280 --> 00:31:36,680
More than 120 test
bombs were dropped
595
00:31:36,720 --> 00:31:38,640
at the salton sea base.
596
00:31:39,800 --> 00:31:41,760
Some casing designs, however,
597
00:31:41,800 --> 00:31:43,720
prove less than accurate
598
00:31:43,760 --> 00:31:47,520
and four of the giant
missiles still lie out in desert
599
00:31:47,560 --> 00:31:49,000
where they missed their target
600
00:31:49,040 --> 00:31:50,680
and burrowed deep into the sand.
601
00:31:54,120 --> 00:31:57,000
They did drop something
right in the centre
602
00:31:57,040 --> 00:31:58,920
of the tennis court,
603
00:31:58,960 --> 00:32:00,440
which didn't go over too big.
604
00:32:02,360 --> 00:32:03,520
I guess that's how you learn.
605
00:32:06,840 --> 00:32:07,920
During testing,
606
00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:09,600
the fat man atomic bomb
607
00:32:09,640 --> 00:32:12,120
experienced a violent
wobble when dropped.
608
00:32:14,160 --> 00:32:15,480
Yet at salton sea,
609
00:32:15,520 --> 00:32:17,040
this problem was resolved.
610
00:32:18,560 --> 00:32:20,240
The addition of a distinctive,
611
00:32:20,280 --> 00:32:22,760
box-like tail
containing eight fins,
612
00:32:22,800 --> 00:32:25,160
named a California parachute,
613
00:32:25,200 --> 00:32:26,240
suppressed the wobble
614
00:32:26,280 --> 00:32:28,080
and improved accuracy.
615
00:32:34,080 --> 00:32:38,120
Because of the aerodynamic
investigations conducted here
616
00:32:38,160 --> 00:32:39,920
and the live atomic bomb tests
617
00:32:39,960 --> 00:32:43,400
at the white sands missile
range in new Mexico,
618
00:32:43,440 --> 00:32:44,880
america was able to deploy
619
00:32:44,920 --> 00:32:48,200
both the fat man
and little boy bombs
620
00:32:48,240 --> 00:32:50,080
on Hiroshima and Nagasaki
621
00:32:50,120 --> 00:32:51,800
in August 1945
622
00:32:54,560 --> 00:32:57,480
at once, they caused
unparalleled death
623
00:32:57,520 --> 00:32:58,880
and destruction
624
00:32:58,920 --> 00:33:01,000
and secured allied victory
625
00:33:01,040 --> 00:33:02,680
against the Japanese empire.
626
00:33:03,920 --> 00:33:09,520
Salton sea was vitally important
to the Manhattan project.
627
00:33:09,560 --> 00:33:12,680
Nobody can afford to
have the brain power
628
00:33:12,720 --> 00:33:14,160
that's been assembled
629
00:33:14,200 --> 00:33:15,680
for the Manhattan project
630
00:33:15,720 --> 00:33:18,360
build a bomb that's
not gonna hit the target.
631
00:33:20,840 --> 00:33:23,040
For several years after the war,
632
00:33:23,080 --> 00:33:26,480
testing for the nuclear
program continued at the base.
633
00:33:28,080 --> 00:33:30,440
In the 1950s and '60s,
634
00:33:30,480 --> 00:33:32,040
the nearby salton city
635
00:33:32,080 --> 00:33:34,800
became a popular
recreational resort
636
00:33:34,840 --> 00:33:37,640
and military secrecy was
increasingly compromised.
637
00:33:39,480 --> 00:33:41,280
In 1971,
638
00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:43,720
the base was shut
down and abandoned.
639
00:33:48,040 --> 00:33:49,920
Today, the area has been
640
00:33:49,960 --> 00:33:52,000
reclaimed by the sand
641
00:33:52,040 --> 00:33:54,960
and the salty environment
has eaten away at the buildings.
642
00:33:56,320 --> 00:33:59,680
There is little left of
the salton sea base
643
00:33:59,720 --> 00:34:01,920
to show how vital
its contribution was
644
00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,360
to allied victory
during world war ii.
645
00:34:07,280 --> 00:34:09,800
There's no plaques,
there's no statues,
646
00:34:09,840 --> 00:34:13,280
nothing to tell you that this
was once a very important site.
647
00:34:17,600 --> 00:34:18,840
All that remains
648
00:34:18,880 --> 00:34:22,720
is a stark reminder of the
perils of nuclear development
649
00:34:22,760 --> 00:34:24,600
and the cost of all-out war.
650
00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:32,480
Across the Atlantic ocean
651
00:34:32,520 --> 00:34:34,040
in continental Europe,
652
00:34:34,080 --> 00:34:37,680
30 miles south of the
Belgian capital, Brussels,
653
00:34:37,720 --> 00:34:40,400
a desolate industrial
area spreads
654
00:34:40,440 --> 00:34:42,080
along the banks
of the river sambre.
655
00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:48,880
Looming like a monolith
over the wasteland
656
00:34:48,920 --> 00:34:50,880
is a squat concrete tower.
657
00:34:52,440 --> 00:34:55,160
It is around 200ft in
diameter at its base
658
00:34:55,200 --> 00:34:58,560
and rises 354ft into the air.
659
00:35:00,400 --> 00:35:03,000
Its corrugated
sides slope upwards
660
00:35:03,040 --> 00:35:04,480
to reveal a gaping mouth.
661
00:35:05,920 --> 00:35:09,440
It's certainly impressive.
It's amazing to see.
662
00:35:09,480 --> 00:35:11,200
Roma agrawal:
It's quite beautiful.
663
00:35:11,240 --> 00:35:13,960
They've got these
really flowing shapes.
664
00:35:15,960 --> 00:35:17,240
Mysteriously,
665
00:35:17,280 --> 00:35:19,160
the wide base is
pierced all around
666
00:35:19,200 --> 00:35:20,600
by numerous gaps.
667
00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:25,120
The tower's interior looks like
668
00:35:25,160 --> 00:35:27,080
an unfinished beehive,
669
00:35:27,120 --> 00:35:29,280
covered with
rotting wooden slats
670
00:35:29,320 --> 00:35:30,920
and weed-clogged channels.
671
00:35:35,440 --> 00:35:36,520
What lies behind
672
00:35:36,560 --> 00:35:38,880
the bizarre features
of this massive tower?
673
00:35:40,040 --> 00:35:41,760
And why was it abandoned?
674
00:35:46,240 --> 00:35:47,720
In 1921,
675
00:35:47,760 --> 00:35:48,880
the city of charleroi
676
00:35:48,920 --> 00:35:51,200
was part of Belgium's
industrial heartland.
677
00:35:52,960 --> 00:35:55,240
Yet, having suffered
four long years
678
00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:58,360
of German occupation
during world war I,
679
00:35:58,400 --> 00:36:02,080
its hundreds of factories
were struggling for power.
680
00:36:02,120 --> 00:36:04,160
Despite Belgian neutrality,
681
00:36:04,200 --> 00:36:07,120
Germany's invasion
of 1914 was followed
682
00:36:07,160 --> 00:36:09,480
by a thorough dismantling
of Belgian industry.
683
00:36:11,080 --> 00:36:12,080
It was part
684
00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:14,280
of what historians
sometimes call
685
00:36:14,320 --> 00:36:15,600
the 'rape of Belgium'.
686
00:36:17,080 --> 00:36:19,920
To help drag the nation's
economy back to its feet,
687
00:36:19,960 --> 00:36:22,440
a state-of-the-art power
station was proposed.
688
00:36:24,600 --> 00:36:27,080
The enormous power plant im.
689
00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:33,440
In the process of
generating power,
690
00:36:33,480 --> 00:36:35,640
typically steam
engines are utilised.
691
00:36:35,680 --> 00:36:37,360
To make steam, you need water
692
00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:39,640
and when you make steam,
that water gets quite hot.
693
00:36:39,680 --> 00:36:41,840
To create new steam, you
need to take the hot water,
694
00:36:41,880 --> 00:36:43,360
cool it down
695
00:36:43,400 --> 00:36:44,480
and then recreate steam.
696
00:36:46,840 --> 00:36:49,280
The power plant was
one of the largest of its kind
697
00:36:49,320 --> 00:36:50,400
in Europe.
698
00:36:55,600 --> 00:36:59,360
At its heart was a
dramatic cooling tower,
699
00:36:59,400 --> 00:37:01,720
designed to cool
the water back down
700
00:37:01,760 --> 00:37:03,520
and produce more
steam-based energy
701
00:37:03,560 --> 00:37:04,800
by burning coal.
702
00:37:09,680 --> 00:37:12,200
We all recognise a cooling
tower when we see one
703
00:37:12,240 --> 00:37:14,296
and that's because they've
got that characteristic shape.
704
00:37:14,320 --> 00:37:15,760
It's called a hyperboloid,
705
00:37:15,800 --> 00:37:19,280
this 3D form that's
quite wide at the base
706
00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:21,000
and then it kind of funnels in
707
00:37:21,040 --> 00:37:23,400
before coming back
out again at the top.
708
00:37:23,440 --> 00:37:25,120
The reason they have this shape
709
00:37:25,160 --> 00:37:27,560
is because as the
air, the warm air,
710
00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,600
is drawn up through that tower,
711
00:37:29,640 --> 00:37:32,760
it's accelerated through
that funnel where it narrows
712
00:37:32,800 --> 00:37:36,000
and that draws more air in
from underneath, cooler air,
713
00:37:36,040 --> 00:37:38,400
which does the job
of a cooling tower.
714
00:37:44,600 --> 00:37:46,880
To produce steam-based energy,
715
00:37:46,920 --> 00:37:48,360
the tower was able to cool
716
00:37:48,400 --> 00:37:51,960
an incredible 480,000
gallons of water
717
00:37:52,000 --> 00:37:53,600
every minute.
718
00:37:53,640 --> 00:37:54,680
But this was only possible
719
00:37:54,720 --> 00:37:58,480
because of the unique use of
its cone-like hyperboloid shape.
720
00:38:03,320 --> 00:38:05,480
The hyperboloid
shape of a cooling tower
721
00:38:05,520 --> 00:38:08,120
is extremely effective
in terms of heat transfer
722
00:38:08,160 --> 00:38:11,560
between the hot
water and the rising air.
723
00:38:11,600 --> 00:38:12,600
In that way,
724
00:38:12,640 --> 00:38:14,480
the design is
persistent through time,
725
00:38:14,520 --> 00:38:16,840
it's a very classical
and effective way
726
00:38:16,880 --> 00:38:18,080
to do what you need to do.
727
00:38:22,160 --> 00:38:23,800
For all its simplicity,
728
00:38:23,840 --> 00:38:26,360
the tower itself
was no easy build.
729
00:38:27,720 --> 00:38:29,000
The hyperboloid shape
730
00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:31,480
was not simply a
matter of styling,
731
00:38:31,520 --> 00:38:34,840
but a brilliant solution to
creating mass without weight.
732
00:38:36,920 --> 00:38:39,840
So, creating these large,
flowing, beautiful shapes
733
00:38:39,880 --> 00:38:41,920
is actually quite challenging,
734
00:38:41,960 --> 00:38:43,920
because if any of
you have ever tried
735
00:38:43,960 --> 00:38:47,600
creating that shape just
on a pottery wheel that size,
736
00:38:47,640 --> 00:38:48,720
it's really hard.
737
00:38:50,600 --> 00:38:54,200
You're trying to use formwork
and moulds to create this.
738
00:38:54,240 --> 00:38:55,840
You need to change
739
00:38:55,880 --> 00:38:57,880
the way the mould
fits the higher you go
740
00:38:57,920 --> 00:39:00,040
so that you get
your curvy shape.
741
00:39:00,080 --> 00:39:01,320
You're at a height, as well,
742
00:39:01,360 --> 00:39:03,520
and you're trying to
pour concrete down here,
743
00:39:03,560 --> 00:39:05,640
and then think
about doing all of that
744
00:39:05,680 --> 00:39:07,280
without computers.
745
00:39:07,320 --> 00:39:09,520
So you're basically
sitting there with a pencil
746
00:39:09,560 --> 00:39:11,000
and a piece of paper,
747
00:39:11,040 --> 00:39:12,280
working out what you need to do
748
00:39:12,320 --> 00:39:14,160
and then doing it on
this really grand scale.
749
00:39:15,680 --> 00:39:18,560
The plant started
operating in 1921.
750
00:39:20,400 --> 00:39:22,680
Hot water from the
plant's machinery
751
00:39:22,720 --> 00:39:24,360
was blasted into the tower
752
00:39:24,400 --> 00:39:25,680
through its central vent.
753
00:39:28,560 --> 00:39:29,640
It was collected
754
00:39:29,680 --> 00:39:31,880
in hundreds of shallow channels
755
00:39:31,920 --> 00:39:34,480
designed to increase
its surface area
756
00:39:34,520 --> 00:39:36,760
and lower its
temperature rapidly,
757
00:39:36,800 --> 00:39:38,440
with extreme economy.
758
00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:43,880
They're using this principle
759
00:39:43,920 --> 00:39:46,920
that hotter air is less dense
760
00:39:46,960 --> 00:39:50,720
and therefore lighter, and
cooler air is more dense
761
00:39:50,760 --> 00:39:51,880
and therefore heavier.
762
00:39:51,920 --> 00:39:54,120
And so what happens
in these towers
763
00:39:54,160 --> 00:39:56,000
is that the hot air rises up
764
00:39:56,040 --> 00:39:58,160
and the cool air
stays at the base.
765
00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:01,360
And the shape here helps
766
00:40:01,400 --> 00:40:04,040
and gives it a bit of
an aerodynamic quality
767
00:40:04,080 --> 00:40:06,800
to allow this flow to
happen very smoothly.
768
00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:11,720
Through the interwar period,
769
00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:13,840
the new plant
successfully helped
770
00:40:13,880 --> 00:40:16,720
power huge industrial
expansion in Belgium.
771
00:40:17,960 --> 00:40:20,040
From 1940, however,
772
00:40:20,080 --> 00:40:22,800
Belgium was again
under German occupation
773
00:40:22,840 --> 00:40:25,440
and the plant's output
was diverted to serve
774
00:40:25,480 --> 00:40:26,760
their Nazi overlords.
775
00:40:28,520 --> 00:40:29,920
In the post-war years,
776
00:40:29,960 --> 00:40:32,160
it continued to serve Belgians
777
00:40:32,200 --> 00:40:33,880
and, by 1977,
778
00:40:33,920 --> 00:40:36,760
it was the main source of
energy in the charleroi area.
779
00:40:38,960 --> 00:40:41,200
Yet engineers at
the time had no idea
780
00:40:41,240 --> 00:40:42,920
that hanging over its future
781
00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:46,120
were two deadly by-products.
782
00:40:46,160 --> 00:40:48,520
Lurking in the
channels of the tower
783
00:40:48,560 --> 00:40:50,040
was a killer disease.
784
00:40:54,160 --> 00:40:55,520
Inside a cooling tower,
785
00:40:55,560 --> 00:40:57,360
it's warm and it's damp
786
00:40:57,400 --> 00:41:00,600
and at the exact temperature
in those conditions,
787
00:41:00,640 --> 00:41:02,680
they can become
a breeding ground
788
00:41:02,720 --> 00:41:04,200
for legionnaire's disease,
789
00:41:04,240 --> 00:41:05,280
which can be fatal.
790
00:41:06,840 --> 00:41:08,680
However, the tower continued
791
00:41:08,720 --> 00:41:11,560
to operate
effectively for decades
792
00:41:11,600 --> 00:41:13,960
without any fatalities,
793
00:41:14,000 --> 00:41:16,880
yet its days were
still numbered.
794
00:41:16,920 --> 00:41:19,440
The coal-powered
plant was also producing
795
00:41:19,480 --> 00:41:22,160
alarmingly high levels
of carbon dioxide.
796
00:41:25,680 --> 00:41:28,160
A report found it
responsible for 10%
797
00:41:28,200 --> 00:41:30,880
of the total co2
emissions in Belgium.
798
00:41:32,720 --> 00:41:35,120
This was followed by
Greenpeace protests
799
00:41:35,160 --> 00:41:37,280
in 2006
800
00:41:37,320 --> 00:41:38,520
and, a year later,
801
00:41:38,560 --> 00:41:40,120
it was forced to close down.
802
00:41:41,720 --> 00:41:43,160
Considered too unsafe
803
00:41:43,200 --> 00:41:45,320
and contaminated
to be repurposed...
804
00:41:46,360 --> 00:41:47,960
The site lies abandoned.
805
00:41:51,720 --> 00:41:53,720
Today, the futuristic appearance
806
00:41:53,760 --> 00:41:55,200
still amazes the few people
807
00:41:55,240 --> 00:41:57,520
prepared to penetrate
its daunting maze
808
00:41:57,560 --> 00:41:59,400
of concrete beams.
809
00:42:01,520 --> 00:42:03,040
It is now being preserved
810
00:42:03,080 --> 00:42:04,480
as an icon of design
811
00:42:04,520 --> 00:42:06,040
for future generations.
812
00:42:09,000 --> 00:42:11,080
After decades of being seen
813
00:42:11,120 --> 00:42:14,240
as a piece of
industrial engineering,
814
00:42:14,280 --> 00:42:16,480
its beauty has
actually shone through
815
00:42:16,520 --> 00:42:18,640
and that's the reason
they now want to keep it.
816
00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:23,160
Now nearly a century old,
817
00:42:23,200 --> 00:42:26,280
power plant im and
its iconic cooling tower
818
00:42:26,320 --> 00:42:29,280
show that when engineers
get a design right,
819
00:42:29,320 --> 00:42:30,840
it becomes timeless.
820
00:42:34,640 --> 00:42:36,040
For me,
821
00:42:36,080 --> 00:42:40,880
I just love the mathematical
and structural perfection
822
00:42:40,920 --> 00:42:42,680
that these towers represent.
823
00:42:53,760 --> 00:42:55,080
Now abandoned,
824
00:42:55,120 --> 00:42:58,320
they were once on the cutting
edge of human engineering.
825
00:43:00,200 --> 00:43:02,360
Within these decaying structures
826
00:43:02,400 --> 00:43:03,960
are the echoes of history.
827
00:43:05,720 --> 00:43:06,880
They speak of war
828
00:43:06,920 --> 00:43:08,400
and terror,
829
00:43:08,440 --> 00:43:12,640
but also of exploration
and human endeavour.
830
00:43:15,880 --> 00:43:18,880
Captioned by
ai-media ai-media. TV
61562
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