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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,200 --> 00:00:04,400 Tom ward: A vast, ornate structure 2 00:00:04,440 --> 00:00:07,120 abandoned high in the pyrenees mountains. 3 00:00:08,280 --> 00:00:11,080 It's a surprising building to find in that location. 4 00:00:12,840 --> 00:00:16,280 A wrecked research facility in Russia's arctic tundra. 5 00:00:17,320 --> 00:00:20,320 Something that looks completely bizarre, 6 00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:23,600 we actually have a window into the interior of our planet. 7 00:00:25,440 --> 00:00:30,360 A mysterious military base lost in the American desert. 8 00:00:30,400 --> 00:00:32,680 Looks like it was hit by an atomic bomb. 9 00:00:34,680 --> 00:00:37,240 And a towering maze of concrete beams. 10 00:00:38,960 --> 00:00:41,880 So, creating these large, flowing, beautiful shapes 11 00:00:41,920 --> 00:00:43,560 is actually quite challenging. 12 00:00:46,800 --> 00:00:49,240 Once, they were some of the most advanced structures 13 00:00:49,280 --> 00:00:52,360 and facilities on the planet, 14 00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:54,920 at the cutting edge of design and construction. 15 00:00:56,240 --> 00:00:58,160 Today, they stand abandoned, 16 00:00:58,200 --> 00:01:01,160 contaminated and sometimes deadly. 17 00:01:02,720 --> 00:01:04,400 But who built them and how? 18 00:01:05,680 --> 00:01:07,440 And why were they abandoned? 19 00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:32,520 On the border of France and Spain, 20 00:01:32,560 --> 00:01:34,880 a tiny village of just 500 people 21 00:01:34,920 --> 00:01:36,800 sits in a steep-sided valley. 22 00:01:43,280 --> 00:01:44,960 At this remote location, 23 00:01:45,000 --> 00:01:47,680 4,000ft up in the pyrenees mountains, 24 00:01:47,720 --> 00:01:50,720 are the remains of a gigantic derelict structure. 25 00:01:52,320 --> 00:01:56,360 Rob bell: It's a surprising building to find in that location. 26 00:01:56,400 --> 00:01:58,240 It's grand, it's almost palatial. 27 00:01:59,360 --> 00:02:00,760 And yet, there it is, 28 00:02:00,800 --> 00:02:03,920 plonked down in the middle of the pyrenees mountains 29 00:02:03,960 --> 00:02:07,800 with not that much of civilisation around it. 30 00:02:10,840 --> 00:02:14,440 It's neither a disused factory nor power plant, 31 00:02:14,480 --> 00:02:16,800 but rather a glass and marble palace. 32 00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,920 Its ornate three-storey facade 33 00:02:19,960 --> 00:02:22,200 has 365 windows 34 00:02:22,240 --> 00:02:24,120 and 156 doors... 35 00:02:26,560 --> 00:02:27,960 And it stretches 800ft 36 00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:29,640 along the narrow valley floor. 37 00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:35,280 The idea that anybody would build 38 00:02:35,320 --> 00:02:37,400 something so grand 39 00:02:37,440 --> 00:02:40,920 in a place that is almost impossible to get to, 40 00:02:40,960 --> 00:02:43,160 that is astonishing. 41 00:02:44,520 --> 00:02:47,840 Immense effort has gone into creating beautiful buildings 42 00:02:47,880 --> 00:02:50,280 with a mix of classicism and art nouveau... 43 00:02:51,360 --> 00:02:52,560 So why is it here, 44 00:02:52,600 --> 00:02:54,760 isolated in the mountains? 45 00:02:54,800 --> 00:02:56,360 And why was it abandoned? 46 00:02:59,960 --> 00:03:01,440 In the mid-19th century, 47 00:03:01,480 --> 00:03:03,480 Spain was still largely cut off 48 00:03:03,520 --> 00:03:05,760 from France and Europe by the pyrenees. 49 00:03:08,040 --> 00:03:11,600 This mountain range stretches 260 miles along the border. 50 00:03:13,920 --> 00:03:15,040 The lack of trade routes 51 00:03:15,080 --> 00:03:17,200 severely restricted the nation's economy. 52 00:03:18,360 --> 00:03:21,280 The Spanish government realised that they desperately needed 53 00:03:21,320 --> 00:03:23,600 a transport route through the mountains. 54 00:03:24,800 --> 00:03:27,920 The idea of a train line 55 00:03:27,960 --> 00:03:29,440 that would cross the pyrenees 56 00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:31,920 was extremely appealing, 57 00:03:31,960 --> 00:03:33,800 and when it was undertaken, 58 00:03:33,840 --> 00:03:35,560 it was a massive engineering project. 59 00:03:35,600 --> 00:03:39,240 It was almost like a Panama canal type of project, 60 00:03:39,280 --> 00:03:41,440 with super-long tunnels 61 00:03:41,480 --> 00:03:43,760 and Bridges. 62 00:03:43,800 --> 00:03:45,840 Years of very, very challenging engineering. 63 00:03:48,960 --> 00:03:51,760 The central connection point was this, 64 00:03:51,800 --> 00:03:54,720 the canfranc international railway station. 65 00:03:57,160 --> 00:03:59,480 Building was underway in 1923. 66 00:04:01,240 --> 00:04:03,680 Its critical importance lay in overcoming 67 00:04:03,720 --> 00:04:05,960 a specific engineering miscalculation. 68 00:04:08,680 --> 00:04:10,040 When early Spanish railways 69 00:04:10,080 --> 00:04:12,080 developed in the late 1800s, 70 00:04:12,120 --> 00:04:13,480 engineers decided to employ 71 00:04:13,520 --> 00:04:16,640 a broad Gauge track of 5'5". 72 00:04:20,800 --> 00:04:21,840 Yet France, 73 00:04:21,880 --> 00:04:23,280 along with most of Europe, 74 00:04:23,320 --> 00:04:26,640 matched the international Gauge of 4'8.5". 75 00:04:30,720 --> 00:04:33,000 It was a fateful decision. 76 00:04:33,040 --> 00:04:35,240 There was no way of physically altering 77 00:04:35,280 --> 00:04:37,320 the track width or wheel Gauge. 78 00:04:40,400 --> 00:04:44,360 Spanish trains ran on a different width of track 79 00:04:44,400 --> 00:04:46,000 than French trains, 80 00:04:46,040 --> 00:04:49,560 so they had to find a station big enough 81 00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:51,600 to unload the French trains, 82 00:04:51,640 --> 00:04:53,760 load everything onto the Spanish trains 83 00:04:53,800 --> 00:04:54,840 or vice versa. 84 00:04:57,160 --> 00:04:59,840 The only solution was to create a transfer point 85 00:04:59,880 --> 00:05:01,720 from one track Gauge to the other. 86 00:05:04,080 --> 00:05:05,760 So canfranc had to be constructed 87 00:05:05,800 --> 00:05:07,320 on a huge scale. 88 00:05:08,760 --> 00:05:11,080 Completed in 1928, 89 00:05:11,120 --> 00:05:13,600 it was one of the longest and highest-altitude rail stations 90 00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:14,680 in Europe. 91 00:05:16,840 --> 00:05:19,640 It was dubbed the 'Titanic of the mountains'. 92 00:05:27,640 --> 00:05:31,920 By building this huge, impressive station in the pyrenees, 93 00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:33,400 it would open up new, 94 00:05:33,440 --> 00:05:35,280 strong trade routes into France 95 00:05:35,320 --> 00:05:37,040 and then into the whole of Europe. 96 00:05:38,640 --> 00:05:40,880 Fernando Sanchez morales 97 00:05:40,920 --> 00:05:42,440 is the current mayor of canfranc. 98 00:05:57,720 --> 00:06:00,840 On 18 July, 1928, 99 00:06:00,880 --> 00:06:04,400 king Alfonso of Spain formally opened canfranc station 100 00:06:04,440 --> 00:06:08,520 and declared, "the pyrenees no longer exist." 101 00:06:11,360 --> 00:06:13,920 With border protection, 102 00:06:13,960 --> 00:06:16,600 a hotel, restaurants 103 00:06:16,640 --> 00:06:19,000 and 2,000 staff, 104 00:06:19,040 --> 00:06:22,480 canfranc rivalled any of the major stations of Europe. 105 00:06:24,080 --> 00:06:27,680 Spain, they think, has finally arrived 106 00:06:27,720 --> 00:06:29,480 and is once again a player in Europe. 107 00:06:31,360 --> 00:06:34,240 But dark clouds loomed large on the horizon. 108 00:06:35,680 --> 00:06:37,000 A year later, 109 00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:39,880 the wall street crash sparked the great depression 110 00:06:39,920 --> 00:06:41,560 and, by 1936, 111 00:06:41,600 --> 00:06:43,240 king Alfonso was in exile, 112 00:06:43,280 --> 00:06:46,520 with Spain in the grip of a bloody civil war. 113 00:06:47,960 --> 00:06:50,880 Rebel nationalist leader general Franco ordered 114 00:06:50,920 --> 00:06:53,200 the vital somport tunnel be blocked 115 00:06:53,240 --> 00:06:54,320 to prevent arms reaching 116 00:06:54,360 --> 00:06:55,880 the republican government. 117 00:06:58,000 --> 00:07:00,200 Canfranc becomes the last stop 118 00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,720 on a railway to nowhere. 119 00:07:04,360 --> 00:07:06,840 The canfranc station had the misfortune 120 00:07:06,880 --> 00:07:11,040 of sitting right on kind of a geopolitical fault line. 121 00:07:11,080 --> 00:07:13,640 Tunnels were closed for a time 122 00:07:13,680 --> 00:07:15,560 then because the Spanish government 123 00:07:15,600 --> 00:07:18,040 was afraid of people smuggling in supplies. 124 00:07:19,320 --> 00:07:21,280 The station was commandeered 125 00:07:21,320 --> 00:07:22,520 by Franco's army 126 00:07:22,560 --> 00:07:25,400 as the Spanish general employed the help of Adolf Hitler 127 00:07:25,440 --> 00:07:27,960 to quash republican and communist forces. 128 00:07:29,680 --> 00:07:31,520 For Hitler, it provided an arena 129 00:07:31,560 --> 00:07:33,560 to test out his latest weapons, 130 00:07:33,600 --> 00:07:35,320 armoured units and planes 131 00:07:35,360 --> 00:07:37,880 of his newly created luftwaffe. 132 00:07:41,000 --> 00:07:42,640 In 1939, 133 00:07:42,680 --> 00:07:43,800 Franco secured victory 134 00:07:43,840 --> 00:07:47,280 and established himself as fascist dictator. 135 00:07:48,280 --> 00:07:50,320 The station reopened, 136 00:07:50,360 --> 00:07:54,320 but its tumultuous existence was set to continue. 137 00:07:55,760 --> 00:07:58,080 A flood of Jews and refugees, 138 00:07:58,120 --> 00:08:00,640 fleeing persecution of Nazi Germany, 139 00:08:00,680 --> 00:08:02,280 passed south through the station. 140 00:08:03,680 --> 00:08:05,640 Ironically, at the same time, 141 00:08:05,680 --> 00:08:09,000 Franco sent shipments of supplies through canfranc 142 00:08:09,040 --> 00:08:12,080 to help feed Hitler's war machine. 143 00:08:12,120 --> 00:08:14,920 Gold and metals for the production of arms 144 00:08:14,960 --> 00:08:16,480 poured through the mountains 145 00:08:16,520 --> 00:08:17,640 and across the border. 146 00:08:20,800 --> 00:08:22,936 When the Nazis invaded France in the second world war, 147 00:08:22,960 --> 00:08:24,680 canfranc station provided 148 00:08:24,720 --> 00:08:27,560 a really important railway link 149 00:08:27,600 --> 00:08:30,280 for Jewish refugees escaping France into Spain. 150 00:08:33,560 --> 00:08:35,480 But going the other way, 151 00:08:35,520 --> 00:08:38,520 it also provided a route for the Germans 152 00:08:38,560 --> 00:08:41,320 to export gold ore 153 00:08:41,360 --> 00:08:43,280 from Spain into France 154 00:08:43,320 --> 00:08:45,240 and effectively into the German reich. 155 00:08:47,480 --> 00:08:48,800 It was also a through-route 156 00:08:48,840 --> 00:08:51,480 for agents engaged in acts of espionage. 157 00:08:54,120 --> 00:08:56,560 This train line was a vital link 158 00:08:56,600 --> 00:08:58,480 between southern France 159 00:08:58,520 --> 00:09:00,200 and, essentially, the outside world. 160 00:09:00,240 --> 00:09:01,560 It allowed 161 00:09:01,600 --> 00:09:03,480 supplies and information, 162 00:09:03,520 --> 00:09:05,920 travel, to the French resistance. 163 00:09:05,960 --> 00:09:09,040 They were even used for some spy missions, 164 00:09:09,080 --> 00:09:14,640 where some very brave young women would carry packages of information 165 00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:15,720 out to Spain, 166 00:09:15,760 --> 00:09:18,480 where they would ultimately be delivered on 167 00:09:18,520 --> 00:09:20,440 to the allies in britain. 168 00:09:23,160 --> 00:09:25,600 In a final twist of irony, 169 00:09:25,640 --> 00:09:27,400 as the war progressed, 170 00:09:27,440 --> 00:09:29,840 canfranc became a key escape route, 171 00:09:29,880 --> 00:09:31,240 not for Jews, 172 00:09:31,280 --> 00:09:32,360 but Nazis. 173 00:09:34,120 --> 00:09:36,360 With defeat appearing ever more inevitable 174 00:09:36,400 --> 00:09:37,920 through 1945, 175 00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:40,560 Nazi leaders flooded through, 176 00:09:40,600 --> 00:09:42,720 carrying tonnes of looted gold. 177 00:09:44,520 --> 00:09:49,880 Because almost the only way to get from France into Spain 178 00:09:49,920 --> 00:09:53,200 and onto a ship to somewhere else in the world, 179 00:09:53,240 --> 00:09:58,280 because that requires you to get off the train at canfranc, 180 00:09:58,320 --> 00:10:00,360 to walk through canfranc station... 181 00:10:01,640 --> 00:10:03,520 That one facility 182 00:10:03,560 --> 00:10:07,440 becomes a route for evil people 183 00:10:07,480 --> 00:10:10,800 to get away and seek safety 184 00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:11,920 in South America. 185 00:10:15,480 --> 00:10:16,680 After the war, 186 00:10:16,720 --> 00:10:19,600 with just a trickle of international passengers, 187 00:10:19,640 --> 00:10:21,560 the majestic halls of canfranc 188 00:10:21,600 --> 00:10:23,640 grew more and more shabby and neglected. 189 00:10:26,360 --> 00:10:29,320 And 42 years after it opened its doors, 190 00:10:29,360 --> 00:10:31,920 it was forced to shut down for good. 191 00:10:34,480 --> 00:10:35,920 As vital as it was, 192 00:10:35,960 --> 00:10:37,880 the rail line was never profitable. 193 00:10:37,920 --> 00:10:40,480 And then in 1970, there was a train accident 194 00:10:40,520 --> 00:10:42,600 that destroyed one of the Bridges. 195 00:10:42,640 --> 00:10:43,640 They never rebuilt it. 196 00:10:43,680 --> 00:10:45,800 I think it became kind of an excuse 197 00:10:45,840 --> 00:10:48,800 to let the rail line just fall into decay. 198 00:10:50,640 --> 00:10:51,800 Because by that time, 199 00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:55,080 air travel was becoming more affordable, 200 00:10:55,120 --> 00:10:56,160 highways were better, 201 00:10:56,200 --> 00:10:57,480 trucks were better, 202 00:10:57,520 --> 00:10:59,080 they had more alternatives 203 00:10:59,120 --> 00:11:01,200 to this very difficult railroad line. 204 00:11:02,280 --> 00:11:04,240 With the rail line out of action, 205 00:11:04,280 --> 00:11:07,040 canfranc was abandoned in the 1970s 206 00:11:07,080 --> 00:11:08,240 and left to rust. 207 00:11:13,440 --> 00:11:17,800 Today, the station's opulence and grandeur remain for all to see. 208 00:11:20,400 --> 00:11:22,520 A lot of travellers wanna make a pilgrimage 209 00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:25,280 to see this magnificent train station 210 00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:27,680 and there's something poignant about 211 00:11:27,720 --> 00:11:31,440 people working so hard on some ambitious technology 212 00:11:31,480 --> 00:11:34,280 and infrastructure that never quite works 213 00:11:34,320 --> 00:11:36,480 and then it has to be abandoned 214 00:11:36,520 --> 00:11:39,560 and it just kind of slowly rots away. 215 00:12:00,160 --> 00:12:02,920 We may never truly know which Nazis 216 00:12:02,960 --> 00:12:05,680 and what treasures passed through these platforms. 217 00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:08,880 Those secrets may forever stay hidden 218 00:12:08,920 --> 00:12:11,120 in the shadows of the pyrenees mountains. 219 00:12:12,760 --> 00:12:14,360 But canfranc station 220 00:12:14,400 --> 00:12:17,600 may yet live to see another day. 221 00:12:21,160 --> 00:12:24,000 Around 2,500 miles northeast, 222 00:12:24,040 --> 00:12:25,680 on the kola peninsula 223 00:12:25,720 --> 00:12:27,680 where Russia meets Norway, 224 00:12:27,720 --> 00:12:29,520 is a deserted industrial site. 225 00:12:37,320 --> 00:12:39,280 A cluster of dilapidated buildings 226 00:12:39,320 --> 00:12:40,680 is surrounded by lakes 227 00:12:40,720 --> 00:12:43,480 and forgotten in this barren arctic tundra. 228 00:12:48,320 --> 00:12:50,280 The only living creatures to be seen 229 00:12:50,320 --> 00:12:52,680 are arctic rabbits taking shelter 230 00:12:52,720 --> 00:12:53,800 amongst the debris. 231 00:12:57,040 --> 00:12:59,640 Well, the kola peninsula is extremely remote. 232 00:12:59,680 --> 00:13:02,800 It's very, very far north, almost to the north pole. 233 00:13:05,520 --> 00:13:06,880 Ruined concrete buildings 234 00:13:06,920 --> 00:13:09,000 are littered with twisted wreckage 235 00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:10,400 and smashed equipment. 236 00:13:12,760 --> 00:13:14,920 And at the centre of all this carnage, 237 00:13:14,960 --> 00:13:17,400 one building appears to have been ripped apart. 238 00:13:20,720 --> 00:13:23,640 There's all of these buildings, partly derelict. 239 00:13:23,680 --> 00:13:24,720 What was going on here? 240 00:13:24,760 --> 00:13:27,160 Was it some sort of concentration camp? 241 00:13:27,200 --> 00:13:29,480 Was it some sort of military base? 242 00:13:31,320 --> 00:13:32,560 So, what took place 243 00:13:32,600 --> 00:13:34,440 in this bleak and inhospitable corner 244 00:13:34,480 --> 00:13:36,080 of Russia's arctic north? 245 00:13:38,240 --> 00:13:40,360 And why was this site abandoned? 246 00:13:45,280 --> 00:13:46,520 In the 1960s, 247 00:13:46,560 --> 00:13:48,160 the Soviet union was embroiled 248 00:13:48,200 --> 00:13:50,200 in a military and technological race 249 00:13:50,240 --> 00:13:51,840 with its ideological Nemesis, 250 00:13:51,880 --> 00:13:53,200 the United States. 251 00:13:56,080 --> 00:13:57,840 The cold war was played out 252 00:13:57,880 --> 00:14:01,040 in a nuclear arms race and a space race, 253 00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:03,200 but they were also engaged in a race 254 00:14:03,240 --> 00:14:05,080 to better understand our own planet. 255 00:14:06,920 --> 00:14:09,440 A scientific investigation of the geology 256 00:14:09,480 --> 00:14:12,320 hidden thousands of feet beneath the earth's surface. 257 00:14:13,440 --> 00:14:14,440 At the moment, 258 00:14:14,480 --> 00:14:16,320 the way that we look inside the earth 259 00:14:16,360 --> 00:14:18,080 is through what we call seismic waves. 260 00:14:18,120 --> 00:14:21,200 You make a big explosion on the earth's surface 261 00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:23,880 and we see the way the shockwaves travel into the earth 262 00:14:23,920 --> 00:14:24,920 and back out again. 263 00:14:24,960 --> 00:14:28,080 And we come up with structures, we find barriers in there. 264 00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:30,080 But what are they? 265 00:14:30,120 --> 00:14:31,160 In the '60s and '70s, 266 00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:34,720 there was this huge fascination with the structure of the earth 267 00:14:34,760 --> 00:14:35,920 and trying to figure out 268 00:14:35,960 --> 00:14:37,976 if you could drill down through the earth's crust, 269 00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:39,880 the top layer, into the mantle, 270 00:14:39,920 --> 00:14:42,160 which is the soft kind of plastic layer 271 00:14:42,200 --> 00:14:43,320 that lies under the crust. 272 00:14:43,360 --> 00:14:45,840 It was almost like a subterranean space race, 273 00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:48,080 who could get down the deepest first? 274 00:14:52,120 --> 00:14:55,680 This complex is the site of an extraordinary project 275 00:14:55,720 --> 00:14:58,960 to uncover the secrets of the earth's geological structure. 276 00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:03,400 This is the kola superdeep borehole. 277 00:15:06,320 --> 00:15:09,480 Just nine inches in diameter, 278 00:15:09,520 --> 00:15:11,520 this simple and unremarkable metal lid 279 00:15:11,560 --> 00:15:14,440 opened a new scientific frontier 280 00:15:14,480 --> 00:15:18,360 and it was undertaken in direct competition with the usa. 281 00:15:20,280 --> 00:15:23,520 In the '60s, the Americans had started a project 282 00:15:23,560 --> 00:15:25,280 called mohole 283 00:15:25,320 --> 00:15:27,440 to try to dig down through the crust. 284 00:15:27,480 --> 00:15:30,120 They didn't get very far, but they learned a lot. 285 00:15:30,160 --> 00:15:32,600 On Guadalupe island, Mexico, 286 00:15:32,640 --> 00:15:34,560 American geologists penetrated 287 00:15:34,600 --> 00:15:37,160 just 601ft into the seabed... 288 00:15:38,880 --> 00:15:41,320 Though this was 11,600ft 289 00:15:41,360 --> 00:15:42,840 beneath the surface of the water. 290 00:15:44,560 --> 00:15:46,920 The Russians, however, were aiming to achieve 291 00:15:46,960 --> 00:15:48,880 more than four times that depth. 292 00:15:50,120 --> 00:15:53,600 Their main target was to hit 15,000m 293 00:15:53,640 --> 00:15:55,640 or 49,000ft. 294 00:15:57,040 --> 00:15:59,320 And then the Russians came back in 1970 295 00:15:59,360 --> 00:16:01,200 with this superdeep borehole. 296 00:16:02,880 --> 00:16:05,280 Drilling in this cold location gave them 297 00:16:05,320 --> 00:16:07,200 one distinct advantage. 298 00:16:10,720 --> 00:16:14,960 The kola peninsula sits in an area of very, very old crust, 299 00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:16,320 it's called a shield, 300 00:16:16,360 --> 00:16:17,680 really old crust, 301 00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:19,440 and what's important there 302 00:16:19,480 --> 00:16:22,800 is that the temperature increase as you go with depth 303 00:16:22,840 --> 00:16:24,400 is very light, 304 00:16:24,440 --> 00:16:26,200 so you have much more chance 305 00:16:26,240 --> 00:16:28,840 of getting deeper before it gets too hot. 306 00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:36,000 Could the Soviets dig deeper into the earth's crust 307 00:16:36,040 --> 00:16:38,240 than humans had ever managed before? 308 00:16:46,120 --> 00:16:48,000 Construction of this desolate facility 309 00:16:48,040 --> 00:16:49,720 began in 1965... 310 00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:52,200 And in may 1970, 311 00:16:52,240 --> 00:16:53,680 drilling was underway. 312 00:16:55,560 --> 00:16:57,360 The prize for Soviet engineers 313 00:16:57,400 --> 00:16:59,480 was not just outdoing the usa. 314 00:17:00,640 --> 00:17:03,360 It was gaining new geological data 315 00:17:03,400 --> 00:17:05,200 and access to the earth's resources. 316 00:17:06,840 --> 00:17:09,640 Despite its extreme and remote location, 317 00:17:09,680 --> 00:17:12,360 this base offered them the best chance of success. 318 00:17:20,280 --> 00:17:21,800 This is a very out-of-the-way place. 319 00:17:21,840 --> 00:17:22,880 They had to bring 320 00:17:22,920 --> 00:17:25,440 in all the materials and expertise, 321 00:17:25,480 --> 00:17:27,120 but the Soviet union did a lot of that. 322 00:17:27,160 --> 00:17:29,640 They were good at infrastructure 323 00:17:29,680 --> 00:17:31,600 and building big, 324 00:17:31,640 --> 00:17:34,520 sophisticated bases in remote locations. 325 00:17:34,560 --> 00:17:36,520 Sergei nesterenko 326 00:17:36,560 --> 00:17:37,920 is a Russian engineer 327 00:17:37,960 --> 00:17:40,480 and experienced drilling this challenging borehole. 328 00:17:56,960 --> 00:17:58,640 The first problem they encountered 329 00:17:58,680 --> 00:18:00,280 was one of basic physics. 330 00:18:01,400 --> 00:18:03,920 The borehole was only nine inches in diameter, 331 00:18:05,200 --> 00:18:08,720 but the immense torque created by having to turn drill tubing 332 00:18:08,760 --> 00:18:10,640 that weighed over a million pounds 333 00:18:10,680 --> 00:18:12,160 made the task impossible. 334 00:18:15,160 --> 00:18:18,160 Soviet engineers turned to a radical new solution... 335 00:18:19,400 --> 00:18:21,080 An annular-shaped core drill. 336 00:18:22,800 --> 00:18:23,936 The technology with drilling 337 00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:25,496 is you actually just have the drill bit 338 00:18:25,520 --> 00:18:26,880 at the end and moving. 339 00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:29,720 You force mud and other things down to keep this thing moving 340 00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:32,840 and that's where it's grinding away at the rock. 341 00:18:32,880 --> 00:18:34,880 And in between, you can take out, 342 00:18:34,920 --> 00:18:37,600 essentially, the shaft of rock, what we call the core, 343 00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:39,240 and look at the structure of the earth. 344 00:18:40,880 --> 00:18:43,040 As they ground deeper and deeper, 345 00:18:43,080 --> 00:18:44,560 the drilling process became 346 00:18:44,600 --> 00:18:46,320 ever more fraught with difficulty. 347 00:18:48,920 --> 00:18:50,120 The deeper you drill, 348 00:18:50,160 --> 00:18:52,760 the harder it is to manage the drilling process. 349 00:18:52,800 --> 00:18:54,680 Equipment can get stuck in the hole, 350 00:18:54,720 --> 00:18:56,040 the temperatures get really high, 351 00:18:56,080 --> 00:18:58,320 the rock doesn't behave properly. 352 00:18:58,360 --> 00:19:00,680 So this was a huge technological achievement 353 00:19:00,720 --> 00:19:01,760 for its day. 354 00:19:18,760 --> 00:19:19,920 For over a decade, 355 00:19:19,960 --> 00:19:22,920 they drilled into the crust using a 200-tonne, 356 00:19:22,960 --> 00:19:25,040 200ft-high drilling machine 357 00:19:25,080 --> 00:19:27,200 housed in a huge yellow tower 358 00:19:27,240 --> 00:19:28,960 in the centre of the borehole site. 359 00:19:33,800 --> 00:19:36,120 Drilling deep into the earth's crust at an average 360 00:19:36,160 --> 00:19:38,520 of 196ft a month 361 00:19:38,560 --> 00:19:40,880 wore out 25 miles of piping 362 00:19:40,920 --> 00:19:42,680 simply from the friction and heat. 363 00:19:45,400 --> 00:19:47,160 Despite these difficulties, 364 00:19:47,200 --> 00:19:50,040 kola became the deepest hole in the world, 365 00:19:50,080 --> 00:19:52,800 reaching an astonishing 39,000ft 366 00:19:52,840 --> 00:19:53,880 below the surface. 367 00:19:56,880 --> 00:19:59,600 Dan dickrell: The borehole beat the world record in 1979. 368 00:19:59,640 --> 00:20:02,320 It was almost 40,000ft below the surface, 369 00:20:02,360 --> 00:20:05,000 which is an amazingly deep distance when you think about it. 370 00:20:05,040 --> 00:20:06,720 The marianas trench, 371 00:20:06,760 --> 00:20:08,720 which is the deepest place in the ocean, 372 00:20:08,760 --> 00:20:10,400 is not even near that deep. 373 00:20:12,120 --> 00:20:13,920 As news of the incredible depths 374 00:20:13,960 --> 00:20:16,360 being reached by the kola site was released... 375 00:20:17,840 --> 00:20:20,080 Rumours about its discoveries began to spread. 376 00:20:22,440 --> 00:20:25,200 The fact that the borehole had been dug so deeply 377 00:20:25,240 --> 00:20:27,640 was used to create a hoax, 378 00:20:27,680 --> 00:20:29,240 which was called the 'well to hell'. 379 00:20:30,320 --> 00:20:32,616 You listened really close and put a microphone underneath, 380 00:20:32,640 --> 00:20:34,320 you could actually hear people screaming. 381 00:20:39,400 --> 00:20:41,600 This was later debunked as a complete hoax 382 00:20:41,640 --> 00:20:44,680 but the fact that the hole goes so deeply 383 00:20:44,720 --> 00:20:46,200 ignited people's imagination. 384 00:20:49,440 --> 00:20:50,880 Drilling continued down 385 00:20:50,920 --> 00:20:53,640 to more than 39,500ft... 386 00:20:54,720 --> 00:20:58,480 At which point drilling was suspended for a year. 387 00:20:58,520 --> 00:21:00,480 This led to catastrophe. 388 00:21:00,520 --> 00:21:02,040 When work resumed, 389 00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:03,480 the drill twisted off. 390 00:21:04,680 --> 00:21:06,560 16,000ft of drill pipe 391 00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:08,840 had to be abandoned in its shaft. 392 00:21:10,840 --> 00:21:11,880 When you're drilling 393 00:21:11,920 --> 00:21:13,200 so deep into the earth's crust, 394 00:21:13,240 --> 00:21:15,920 you're actually miles away from where you are on the surface 395 00:21:15,960 --> 00:21:17,256 and you're drilling and drilling away. 396 00:21:17,280 --> 00:21:18,280 That's one thing. 397 00:21:18,320 --> 00:21:20,360 If you then take the drill bit out 398 00:21:20,400 --> 00:21:21,896 and then you try and re-enter the hole, 399 00:21:21,920 --> 00:21:24,520 that's when it can cause many, many problems. 400 00:21:24,560 --> 00:21:26,280 It's like trying to find that needle 401 00:21:26,320 --> 00:21:29,280 in a haystack down to where you were drilling before 402 00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,160 and the drill bit itself can get stuck 403 00:21:31,200 --> 00:21:32,800 and you can break the drill string. 404 00:21:32,840 --> 00:21:33,840 And in this instance, 405 00:21:33,880 --> 00:21:36,160 thousands of feet of drill string were broken. 406 00:21:37,960 --> 00:21:40,440 Engineers now had to start a new hole 407 00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,720 from an offshoot 408 00:21:41,760 --> 00:21:43,920 at 23,300ft. 409 00:21:49,040 --> 00:21:50,360 It took another five years 410 00:21:50,400 --> 00:21:53,160 to borehole down to the amazing depth 411 00:21:53,200 --> 00:21:56,040 of 40,230ft. 412 00:21:57,680 --> 00:21:59,240 But at this incredible depth, 413 00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:01,360 drilling became practically impossible. 414 00:22:05,680 --> 00:22:09,600 The Soviets discover that, when you get far enough underground, 415 00:22:09,640 --> 00:22:12,040 the rocks are no longer rocks. 416 00:22:14,840 --> 00:22:15,960 'Cause as you go down, 417 00:22:16,000 --> 00:22:17,360 it starts getting hotter 418 00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:20,120 and, as it gets hotter, it's harder for the equipment, 419 00:22:20,160 --> 00:22:22,280 for your drill equipment to hold up, 420 00:22:22,320 --> 00:22:25,800 but also the rock itself begins to get a little bit soft, 421 00:22:25,840 --> 00:22:28,360 it begins to flow a little bit like silly putty. 422 00:22:32,320 --> 00:22:34,320 With their equipment failing rapidly 423 00:22:34,360 --> 00:22:36,920 as they encountered staggeringly high temperatures, 424 00:22:36,960 --> 00:22:39,520 the engineers at kola had no option 425 00:22:39,560 --> 00:22:40,640 but to halt drilling. 426 00:22:44,560 --> 00:22:47,360 Though they failed to reach their target depth, 427 00:22:47,400 --> 00:22:50,120 they pushed scientific knowledge of the earth's structure 428 00:22:50,160 --> 00:22:51,960 further than ever before 429 00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:54,040 and made astonishing discoveries. 430 00:22:57,760 --> 00:23:01,280 One thing that surprised them was they discovered a lot of water deep, 431 00:23:01,320 --> 00:23:02,880 deep down in the borehole, 432 00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:05,240 way below where you would find groundwater 433 00:23:05,280 --> 00:23:07,120 or any effects of ocean water. 434 00:23:08,160 --> 00:23:09,216 Dan dickrell: Scientists also found 435 00:23:09,240 --> 00:23:11,456 there was a tremendous amount of hydrogen trapped in the rocks, 436 00:23:11,480 --> 00:23:13,200 which was completely unexpected. 437 00:23:13,240 --> 00:23:14,920 They theorised it came from water 438 00:23:14,960 --> 00:23:16,720 that had been squeezed so strongly 439 00:23:16,760 --> 00:23:19,280 that it actually released hydrogen gas. 440 00:23:19,320 --> 00:23:21,320 They're not the only discoveries they made. 441 00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:32,000 The micro-fossils found that deep 442 00:23:32,040 --> 00:23:33,880 were actually single-celled organisms 443 00:23:33,920 --> 00:23:35,440 that had existed long, long ago 444 00:23:35,480 --> 00:23:37,480 and scientists were very surprised that 445 00:23:37,520 --> 00:23:40,800 life could even exist or could be found that deeply. 446 00:23:42,200 --> 00:23:43,720 The kola borehole managed 447 00:23:43,760 --> 00:23:45,880 to penetrate nearly a third of the way 448 00:23:45,920 --> 00:23:47,840 through the baltic continental crust. 449 00:23:49,920 --> 00:23:52,720 It is the deepest artificial point on earth, 450 00:23:52,760 --> 00:23:54,520 a record it still holds today. 451 00:23:56,360 --> 00:23:57,720 Due to a lack of funding, 452 00:23:57,760 --> 00:24:01,120 however, Russia closed the facility in 2005. 453 00:24:04,800 --> 00:24:05,920 Today, 454 00:24:05,960 --> 00:24:07,640 a simple welded steel plate 455 00:24:07,680 --> 00:24:10,360 is the only sign that the world's deepest hole 456 00:24:10,400 --> 00:24:11,880 lies directly beneath your feet. 457 00:24:15,120 --> 00:24:16,216 You wouldn't necessarily know, 458 00:24:16,240 --> 00:24:19,680 but you could be standing on that little metal plinth, 459 00:24:19,720 --> 00:24:21,120 that beneath you, 460 00:24:21,160 --> 00:24:23,240 there's more than seven miles of knowledge 461 00:24:23,280 --> 00:24:25,160 of what's going on inside the earth's surface. 462 00:24:26,320 --> 00:24:28,080 And that, to me, is really fascinating. 463 00:24:28,120 --> 00:24:30,720 From something that looks completely bizarre, 464 00:24:30,760 --> 00:24:32,400 we actually have a window 465 00:24:32,440 --> 00:24:34,400 into the interior of our planet. 466 00:24:39,760 --> 00:24:41,920 Nearly 5,500 miles to the west, 467 00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:43,600 in southern California, 468 00:24:43,640 --> 00:24:44,760 is the salton sea... 469 00:24:46,360 --> 00:24:48,520 A shallow, saline body of water 470 00:24:48,560 --> 00:24:51,120 that covers 350 square miles 471 00:24:51,160 --> 00:24:52,880 of the Colorado desert 472 00:24:52,920 --> 00:24:55,200 and lies directly on the San Andreas fault. 473 00:24:58,240 --> 00:25:00,120 It's an extraordinary feature 474 00:25:00,160 --> 00:25:01,920 of the California desert, 475 00:25:01,960 --> 00:25:04,720 a 30-mile-long lake 476 00:25:04,760 --> 00:25:06,960 in middle of the wilderness. 477 00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:09,920 On the northeast corner, 478 00:25:09,960 --> 00:25:11,480 sun-bleached timbers 479 00:25:11,520 --> 00:25:13,000 reveal the remains of an old dock 480 00:25:13,040 --> 00:25:15,080 half-buried in the desert sand. 481 00:25:17,240 --> 00:25:19,120 Rotting fish strewn along the beach 482 00:25:19,160 --> 00:25:21,400 fill the air with the smell of death. 483 00:25:23,360 --> 00:25:27,480 You have desolation and, basically, decay. 484 00:25:27,520 --> 00:25:28,800 It's like a graveyard. 485 00:25:30,840 --> 00:25:34,360 A solitary building has been blasted by the elements 486 00:25:34,400 --> 00:25:36,480 and its crumbling remains 487 00:25:36,520 --> 00:25:38,000 overlook the Sandy shore. 488 00:25:41,800 --> 00:25:44,160 But occasionally revealed by the morning sands 489 00:25:44,200 --> 00:25:46,560 are broken concrete roadways, 490 00:25:46,600 --> 00:25:48,680 half-buried bunkers, 491 00:25:48,720 --> 00:25:52,160 the foundations of long vanished buildings 492 00:25:52,200 --> 00:25:55,160 and two 4,000ft-long runways. 493 00:26:01,040 --> 00:26:03,360 There's dead fish along the shoreline. 494 00:26:05,240 --> 00:26:06,880 It's one of the most famous 495 00:26:06,920 --> 00:26:09,240 post-apocalyptic landscapes 496 00:26:09,280 --> 00:26:10,680 in all of the United States. 497 00:26:12,880 --> 00:26:15,800 Why was this mysterious installation built 498 00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:18,720 in such a remote and hostile area of desert? 499 00:26:19,760 --> 00:26:21,680 And why was it abandoned? 500 00:26:25,920 --> 00:26:28,080 In December 1944, 501 00:26:28,120 --> 00:26:30,320 teams of scientists began arriving 502 00:26:30,360 --> 00:26:32,520 at an air station just south of salton city. 503 00:26:34,240 --> 00:26:36,960 They were part of a vital mission, 504 00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:40,080 to beat Nazi Germany in the race to develop the atom bomb. 505 00:26:41,960 --> 00:26:45,960 While us forces were embroiled in a bloody pacific war, 506 00:26:46,000 --> 00:26:49,040 the joint army-Navy z-46 group 507 00:26:49,080 --> 00:26:51,360 started conducting classified tests. 508 00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:55,320 Codenamed 'project y', 509 00:26:55,360 --> 00:26:56,760 this mission to design 510 00:26:56,800 --> 00:27:00,440 and build the first atomic weapons was part of the Manhattan project. 511 00:27:01,920 --> 00:27:04,720 Salton sea was chosen as a key location. 512 00:27:08,280 --> 00:27:11,880 The salton sea was ideal for the Manhattan project 513 00:27:11,920 --> 00:27:13,880 and its aerodynamic testing. 514 00:27:13,920 --> 00:27:15,600 It was for two reasons. 515 00:27:15,640 --> 00:27:17,680 It was completely isolated 516 00:27:17,720 --> 00:27:20,480 and, two, that afforded it secrecy. 517 00:27:22,960 --> 00:27:26,840 In the middle of more than 20,000 acres of barren desert, 518 00:27:26,880 --> 00:27:30,160 this site became a top-secret testing range, 519 00:27:30,200 --> 00:27:33,440 the results of which remain largely classified to this day. 520 00:27:35,040 --> 00:27:37,840 Leon lesicka is a local resident 521 00:27:37,880 --> 00:27:40,160 and his brother worked as a security guard 522 00:27:40,200 --> 00:27:41,400 at the testing site. 523 00:27:44,280 --> 00:27:47,400 They did a lot of practice here, 524 00:27:47,440 --> 00:27:49,920 which was pretty secretive. 525 00:27:49,960 --> 00:27:51,240 In fact, very secretive. 526 00:27:52,800 --> 00:27:55,920 You will not see anything as demanding 527 00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:58,120 of coordination, cooperation 528 00:27:58,160 --> 00:28:00,920 and integration across industry, 529 00:28:00,960 --> 00:28:02,800 academia and the military 530 00:28:02,840 --> 00:28:04,040 as the Manhattan project. 531 00:28:05,400 --> 00:28:07,640 The tests undertaken at this location 532 00:28:07,680 --> 00:28:09,800 were coordinated from here, 533 00:28:09,840 --> 00:28:12,760 the naval auxiliary air station, salton sea. 534 00:28:17,040 --> 00:28:19,080 Codenamed 'Sandy beach'... 535 00:28:20,160 --> 00:28:23,320 This was an ideal site for testing the ballistic 536 00:28:23,360 --> 00:28:26,920 and aerodynamic behaviour of different bomb designs. 537 00:28:32,880 --> 00:28:37,160 If you're going to drop the most powerful bombs ever, 538 00:28:37,200 --> 00:28:39,000 you have to be absolutely certain 539 00:28:39,040 --> 00:28:40,480 you're dropping them with precision. 540 00:28:43,800 --> 00:28:45,520 America's atomic bombs 541 00:28:45,560 --> 00:28:48,880 were designed to be dropped by b-29 superfortresses. 542 00:28:50,240 --> 00:28:52,360 From 31,000ft, 543 00:28:52,400 --> 00:28:55,760 they exploded 2,000ft above ground. 544 00:28:55,800 --> 00:28:58,800 Teams of observers had just 43 seconds 545 00:28:58,840 --> 00:29:00,800 to assess the performance of each bomb 546 00:29:00,840 --> 00:29:02,480 before it crashed into the sea. 547 00:29:04,680 --> 00:29:07,760 Telemetry was used to assess data relating everything 548 00:29:07,800 --> 00:29:11,080 from pressure and temperature to vibration 549 00:29:11,120 --> 00:29:12,160 and to acceleration. 550 00:29:14,560 --> 00:29:18,040 You have almost no cloud cover in a desert, 551 00:29:18,080 --> 00:29:20,320 so if you drop a bomb in daylight, 552 00:29:20,360 --> 00:29:23,480 you can see exactly where that thing is. 553 00:29:25,440 --> 00:29:29,280 That's the target out there that they used to try to hit, 554 00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:31,600 about 1.5 miles out there. 555 00:29:34,800 --> 00:29:37,760 Although it was 400ft away from the base, 556 00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:41,560 the target was practically invisible to the b-29 bombers above. 557 00:29:43,680 --> 00:29:46,880 Pilots had to be able to drop their bombs accurately, 558 00:29:46,920 --> 00:29:49,480 otherwise they would not survive a real bomb run. 559 00:29:51,280 --> 00:29:53,240 A high-pressure blast wave travelling 560 00:29:53,280 --> 00:29:55,080 at 1,100ft per second 561 00:29:55,120 --> 00:29:56,760 would knock them out of the sky. 562 00:29:59,560 --> 00:30:01,840 By 1944/'45, 563 00:30:01,880 --> 00:30:03,840 they're doing a vast amount 564 00:30:03,880 --> 00:30:06,160 of ballistics testing, 565 00:30:06,200 --> 00:30:10,720 because a very slight modification in the shape 566 00:30:10,760 --> 00:30:14,240 or length of a bomb on the tail fins 567 00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:16,040 can affect the performance. 568 00:30:17,280 --> 00:30:18,640 Andrew gough: Salton sea base 569 00:30:18,680 --> 00:30:20,320 became ground zero 570 00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:21,880 for the dropping 571 00:30:21,920 --> 00:30:25,600 of five-tonne concrete bombs. 572 00:30:25,640 --> 00:30:27,640 This is where the testing took place, 573 00:30:27,680 --> 00:30:30,040 supposedly, for Hiroshima. 574 00:30:34,560 --> 00:30:36,840 By the summer of 1945, 575 00:30:36,880 --> 00:30:40,560 still unable to test a live warhead at this site, 576 00:30:40,600 --> 00:30:42,440 the trials at salton sea 577 00:30:42,480 --> 00:30:44,200 were critical to demonstrating 578 00:30:44,240 --> 00:30:47,080 that the weapons would hit their targets first time. 579 00:30:52,040 --> 00:30:55,240 You had aircraft that had automatic cameras 580 00:30:55,280 --> 00:30:58,120 and, when they're dropping live bombs, 581 00:30:58,160 --> 00:31:00,880 you can see where every bomb falls 582 00:31:00,920 --> 00:31:04,040 and then survey and Mark that spot exactly, 583 00:31:04,080 --> 00:31:08,200 and you might even be able to recover the bomb itself. 584 00:31:08,240 --> 00:31:10,000 Scientists and engineers 585 00:31:10,040 --> 00:31:11,760 are testing over and over again, 586 00:31:11,800 --> 00:31:12,920 to make sure 587 00:31:12,960 --> 00:31:15,480 that the electronic components 588 00:31:15,520 --> 00:31:19,480 that are going to make all of that technology turn 589 00:31:19,520 --> 00:31:21,720 into the most powerful blast 590 00:31:21,760 --> 00:31:23,880 the world had ever seen 591 00:31:23,920 --> 00:31:26,360 and work exactly as advertised 592 00:31:26,400 --> 00:31:28,080 and exactly the way the engineers 593 00:31:28,120 --> 00:31:31,080 and the scientists want it to go. 594 00:31:34,280 --> 00:31:36,680 More than 120 test bombs were dropped 595 00:31:36,720 --> 00:31:38,640 at the salton sea base. 596 00:31:39,800 --> 00:31:41,760 Some casing designs, however, 597 00:31:41,800 --> 00:31:43,720 prove less than accurate 598 00:31:43,760 --> 00:31:47,520 and four of the giant missiles still lie out in desert 599 00:31:47,560 --> 00:31:49,000 where they missed their target 600 00:31:49,040 --> 00:31:50,680 and burrowed deep into the sand. 601 00:31:54,120 --> 00:31:57,000 They did drop something right in the centre 602 00:31:57,040 --> 00:31:58,920 of the tennis court, 603 00:31:58,960 --> 00:32:00,440 which didn't go over too big. 604 00:32:02,360 --> 00:32:03,520 I guess that's how you learn. 605 00:32:06,840 --> 00:32:07,920 During testing, 606 00:32:07,960 --> 00:32:09,600 the fat man atomic bomb 607 00:32:09,640 --> 00:32:12,120 experienced a violent wobble when dropped. 608 00:32:14,160 --> 00:32:15,480 Yet at salton sea, 609 00:32:15,520 --> 00:32:17,040 this problem was resolved. 610 00:32:18,560 --> 00:32:20,240 The addition of a distinctive, 611 00:32:20,280 --> 00:32:22,760 box-like tail containing eight fins, 612 00:32:22,800 --> 00:32:25,160 named a California parachute, 613 00:32:25,200 --> 00:32:26,240 suppressed the wobble 614 00:32:26,280 --> 00:32:28,080 and improved accuracy. 615 00:32:34,080 --> 00:32:38,120 Because of the aerodynamic investigations conducted here 616 00:32:38,160 --> 00:32:39,920 and the live atomic bomb tests 617 00:32:39,960 --> 00:32:43,400 at the white sands missile range in new Mexico, 618 00:32:43,440 --> 00:32:44,880 america was able to deploy 619 00:32:44,920 --> 00:32:48,200 both the fat man and little boy bombs 620 00:32:48,240 --> 00:32:50,080 on Hiroshima and Nagasaki 621 00:32:50,120 --> 00:32:51,800 in August 1945 622 00:32:54,560 --> 00:32:57,480 at once, they caused unparalleled death 623 00:32:57,520 --> 00:32:58,880 and destruction 624 00:32:58,920 --> 00:33:01,000 and secured allied victory 625 00:33:01,040 --> 00:33:02,680 against the Japanese empire. 626 00:33:03,920 --> 00:33:09,520 Salton sea was vitally important to the Manhattan project. 627 00:33:09,560 --> 00:33:12,680 Nobody can afford to have the brain power 628 00:33:12,720 --> 00:33:14,160 that's been assembled 629 00:33:14,200 --> 00:33:15,680 for the Manhattan project 630 00:33:15,720 --> 00:33:18,360 build a bomb that's not gonna hit the target. 631 00:33:20,840 --> 00:33:23,040 For several years after the war, 632 00:33:23,080 --> 00:33:26,480 testing for the nuclear program continued at the base. 633 00:33:28,080 --> 00:33:30,440 In the 1950s and '60s, 634 00:33:30,480 --> 00:33:32,040 the nearby salton city 635 00:33:32,080 --> 00:33:34,800 became a popular recreational resort 636 00:33:34,840 --> 00:33:37,640 and military secrecy was increasingly compromised. 637 00:33:39,480 --> 00:33:41,280 In 1971, 638 00:33:41,320 --> 00:33:43,720 the base was shut down and abandoned. 639 00:33:48,040 --> 00:33:49,920 Today, the area has been 640 00:33:49,960 --> 00:33:52,000 reclaimed by the sand 641 00:33:52,040 --> 00:33:54,960 and the salty environment has eaten away at the buildings. 642 00:33:56,320 --> 00:33:59,680 There is little left of the salton sea base 643 00:33:59,720 --> 00:34:01,920 to show how vital its contribution was 644 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,360 to allied victory during world war ii. 645 00:34:07,280 --> 00:34:09,800 There's no plaques, there's no statues, 646 00:34:09,840 --> 00:34:13,280 nothing to tell you that this was once a very important site. 647 00:34:17,600 --> 00:34:18,840 All that remains 648 00:34:18,880 --> 00:34:22,720 is a stark reminder of the perils of nuclear development 649 00:34:22,760 --> 00:34:24,600 and the cost of all-out war. 650 00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:32,480 Across the Atlantic ocean 651 00:34:32,520 --> 00:34:34,040 in continental Europe, 652 00:34:34,080 --> 00:34:37,680 30 miles south of the Belgian capital, Brussels, 653 00:34:37,720 --> 00:34:40,400 a desolate industrial area spreads 654 00:34:40,440 --> 00:34:42,080 along the banks of the river sambre. 655 00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:48,880 Looming like a monolith over the wasteland 656 00:34:48,920 --> 00:34:50,880 is a squat concrete tower. 657 00:34:52,440 --> 00:34:55,160 It is around 200ft in diameter at its base 658 00:34:55,200 --> 00:34:58,560 and rises 354ft into the air. 659 00:35:00,400 --> 00:35:03,000 Its corrugated sides slope upwards 660 00:35:03,040 --> 00:35:04,480 to reveal a gaping mouth. 661 00:35:05,920 --> 00:35:09,440 It's certainly impressive. It's amazing to see. 662 00:35:09,480 --> 00:35:11,200 Roma agrawal: It's quite beautiful. 663 00:35:11,240 --> 00:35:13,960 They've got these really flowing shapes. 664 00:35:15,960 --> 00:35:17,240 Mysteriously, 665 00:35:17,280 --> 00:35:19,160 the wide base is pierced all around 666 00:35:19,200 --> 00:35:20,600 by numerous gaps. 667 00:35:23,360 --> 00:35:25,120 The tower's interior looks like 668 00:35:25,160 --> 00:35:27,080 an unfinished beehive, 669 00:35:27,120 --> 00:35:29,280 covered with rotting wooden slats 670 00:35:29,320 --> 00:35:30,920 and weed-clogged channels. 671 00:35:35,440 --> 00:35:36,520 What lies behind 672 00:35:36,560 --> 00:35:38,880 the bizarre features of this massive tower? 673 00:35:40,040 --> 00:35:41,760 And why was it abandoned? 674 00:35:46,240 --> 00:35:47,720 In 1921, 675 00:35:47,760 --> 00:35:48,880 the city of charleroi 676 00:35:48,920 --> 00:35:51,200 was part of Belgium's industrial heartland. 677 00:35:52,960 --> 00:35:55,240 Yet, having suffered four long years 678 00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:58,360 of German occupation during world war I, 679 00:35:58,400 --> 00:36:02,080 its hundreds of factories were struggling for power. 680 00:36:02,120 --> 00:36:04,160 Despite Belgian neutrality, 681 00:36:04,200 --> 00:36:07,120 Germany's invasion of 1914 was followed 682 00:36:07,160 --> 00:36:09,480 by a thorough dismantling of Belgian industry. 683 00:36:11,080 --> 00:36:12,080 It was part 684 00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:14,280 of what historians sometimes call 685 00:36:14,320 --> 00:36:15,600 the 'rape of Belgium'. 686 00:36:17,080 --> 00:36:19,920 To help drag the nation's economy back to its feet, 687 00:36:19,960 --> 00:36:22,440 a state-of-the-art power station was proposed. 688 00:36:24,600 --> 00:36:27,080 The enormous power plant im. 689 00:36:31,080 --> 00:36:33,440 In the process of generating power, 690 00:36:33,480 --> 00:36:35,640 typically steam engines are utilised. 691 00:36:35,680 --> 00:36:37,360 To make steam, you need water 692 00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:39,640 and when you make steam, that water gets quite hot. 693 00:36:39,680 --> 00:36:41,840 To create new steam, you need to take the hot water, 694 00:36:41,880 --> 00:36:43,360 cool it down 695 00:36:43,400 --> 00:36:44,480 and then recreate steam. 696 00:36:46,840 --> 00:36:49,280 The power plant was one of the largest of its kind 697 00:36:49,320 --> 00:36:50,400 in Europe. 698 00:36:55,600 --> 00:36:59,360 At its heart was a dramatic cooling tower, 699 00:36:59,400 --> 00:37:01,720 designed to cool the water back down 700 00:37:01,760 --> 00:37:03,520 and produce more steam-based energy 701 00:37:03,560 --> 00:37:04,800 by burning coal. 702 00:37:09,680 --> 00:37:12,200 We all recognise a cooling tower when we see one 703 00:37:12,240 --> 00:37:14,296 and that's because they've got that characteristic shape. 704 00:37:14,320 --> 00:37:15,760 It's called a hyperboloid, 705 00:37:15,800 --> 00:37:19,280 this 3D form that's quite wide at the base 706 00:37:19,320 --> 00:37:21,000 and then it kind of funnels in 707 00:37:21,040 --> 00:37:23,400 before coming back out again at the top. 708 00:37:23,440 --> 00:37:25,120 The reason they have this shape 709 00:37:25,160 --> 00:37:27,560 is because as the air, the warm air, 710 00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,600 is drawn up through that tower, 711 00:37:29,640 --> 00:37:32,760 it's accelerated through that funnel where it narrows 712 00:37:32,800 --> 00:37:36,000 and that draws more air in from underneath, cooler air, 713 00:37:36,040 --> 00:37:38,400 which does the job of a cooling tower. 714 00:37:44,600 --> 00:37:46,880 To produce steam-based energy, 715 00:37:46,920 --> 00:37:48,360 the tower was able to cool 716 00:37:48,400 --> 00:37:51,960 an incredible 480,000 gallons of water 717 00:37:52,000 --> 00:37:53,600 every minute. 718 00:37:53,640 --> 00:37:54,680 But this was only possible 719 00:37:54,720 --> 00:37:58,480 because of the unique use of its cone-like hyperboloid shape. 720 00:38:03,320 --> 00:38:05,480 The hyperboloid shape of a cooling tower 721 00:38:05,520 --> 00:38:08,120 is extremely effective in terms of heat transfer 722 00:38:08,160 --> 00:38:11,560 between the hot water and the rising air. 723 00:38:11,600 --> 00:38:12,600 In that way, 724 00:38:12,640 --> 00:38:14,480 the design is persistent through time, 725 00:38:14,520 --> 00:38:16,840 it's a very classical and effective way 726 00:38:16,880 --> 00:38:18,080 to do what you need to do. 727 00:38:22,160 --> 00:38:23,800 For all its simplicity, 728 00:38:23,840 --> 00:38:26,360 the tower itself was no easy build. 729 00:38:27,720 --> 00:38:29,000 The hyperboloid shape 730 00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:31,480 was not simply a matter of styling, 731 00:38:31,520 --> 00:38:34,840 but a brilliant solution to creating mass without weight. 732 00:38:36,920 --> 00:38:39,840 So, creating these large, flowing, beautiful shapes 733 00:38:39,880 --> 00:38:41,920 is actually quite challenging, 734 00:38:41,960 --> 00:38:43,920 because if any of you have ever tried 735 00:38:43,960 --> 00:38:47,600 creating that shape just on a pottery wheel that size, 736 00:38:47,640 --> 00:38:48,720 it's really hard. 737 00:38:50,600 --> 00:38:54,200 You're trying to use formwork and moulds to create this. 738 00:38:54,240 --> 00:38:55,840 You need to change 739 00:38:55,880 --> 00:38:57,880 the way the mould fits the higher you go 740 00:38:57,920 --> 00:39:00,040 so that you get your curvy shape. 741 00:39:00,080 --> 00:39:01,320 You're at a height, as well, 742 00:39:01,360 --> 00:39:03,520 and you're trying to pour concrete down here, 743 00:39:03,560 --> 00:39:05,640 and then think about doing all of that 744 00:39:05,680 --> 00:39:07,280 without computers. 745 00:39:07,320 --> 00:39:09,520 So you're basically sitting there with a pencil 746 00:39:09,560 --> 00:39:11,000 and a piece of paper, 747 00:39:11,040 --> 00:39:12,280 working out what you need to do 748 00:39:12,320 --> 00:39:14,160 and then doing it on this really grand scale. 749 00:39:15,680 --> 00:39:18,560 The plant started operating in 1921. 750 00:39:20,400 --> 00:39:22,680 Hot water from the plant's machinery 751 00:39:22,720 --> 00:39:24,360 was blasted into the tower 752 00:39:24,400 --> 00:39:25,680 through its central vent. 753 00:39:28,560 --> 00:39:29,640 It was collected 754 00:39:29,680 --> 00:39:31,880 in hundreds of shallow channels 755 00:39:31,920 --> 00:39:34,480 designed to increase its surface area 756 00:39:34,520 --> 00:39:36,760 and lower its temperature rapidly, 757 00:39:36,800 --> 00:39:38,440 with extreme economy. 758 00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:43,880 They're using this principle 759 00:39:43,920 --> 00:39:46,920 that hotter air is less dense 760 00:39:46,960 --> 00:39:50,720 and therefore lighter, and cooler air is more dense 761 00:39:50,760 --> 00:39:51,880 and therefore heavier. 762 00:39:51,920 --> 00:39:54,120 And so what happens in these towers 763 00:39:54,160 --> 00:39:56,000 is that the hot air rises up 764 00:39:56,040 --> 00:39:58,160 and the cool air stays at the base. 765 00:39:59,600 --> 00:40:01,360 And the shape here helps 766 00:40:01,400 --> 00:40:04,040 and gives it a bit of an aerodynamic quality 767 00:40:04,080 --> 00:40:06,800 to allow this flow to happen very smoothly. 768 00:40:09,840 --> 00:40:11,720 Through the interwar period, 769 00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:13,840 the new plant successfully helped 770 00:40:13,880 --> 00:40:16,720 power huge industrial expansion in Belgium. 771 00:40:17,960 --> 00:40:20,040 From 1940, however, 772 00:40:20,080 --> 00:40:22,800 Belgium was again under German occupation 773 00:40:22,840 --> 00:40:25,440 and the plant's output was diverted to serve 774 00:40:25,480 --> 00:40:26,760 their Nazi overlords. 775 00:40:28,520 --> 00:40:29,920 In the post-war years, 776 00:40:29,960 --> 00:40:32,160 it continued to serve Belgians 777 00:40:32,200 --> 00:40:33,880 and, by 1977, 778 00:40:33,920 --> 00:40:36,760 it was the main source of energy in the charleroi area. 779 00:40:38,960 --> 00:40:41,200 Yet engineers at the time had no idea 780 00:40:41,240 --> 00:40:42,920 that hanging over its future 781 00:40:42,960 --> 00:40:46,120 were two deadly by-products. 782 00:40:46,160 --> 00:40:48,520 Lurking in the channels of the tower 783 00:40:48,560 --> 00:40:50,040 was a killer disease. 784 00:40:54,160 --> 00:40:55,520 Inside a cooling tower, 785 00:40:55,560 --> 00:40:57,360 it's warm and it's damp 786 00:40:57,400 --> 00:41:00,600 and at the exact temperature in those conditions, 787 00:41:00,640 --> 00:41:02,680 they can become a breeding ground 788 00:41:02,720 --> 00:41:04,200 for legionnaire's disease, 789 00:41:04,240 --> 00:41:05,280 which can be fatal. 790 00:41:06,840 --> 00:41:08,680 However, the tower continued 791 00:41:08,720 --> 00:41:11,560 to operate effectively for decades 792 00:41:11,600 --> 00:41:13,960 without any fatalities, 793 00:41:14,000 --> 00:41:16,880 yet its days were still numbered. 794 00:41:16,920 --> 00:41:19,440 The coal-powered plant was also producing 795 00:41:19,480 --> 00:41:22,160 alarmingly high levels of carbon dioxide. 796 00:41:25,680 --> 00:41:28,160 A report found it responsible for 10% 797 00:41:28,200 --> 00:41:30,880 of the total co2 emissions in Belgium. 798 00:41:32,720 --> 00:41:35,120 This was followed by Greenpeace protests 799 00:41:35,160 --> 00:41:37,280 in 2006 800 00:41:37,320 --> 00:41:38,520 and, a year later, 801 00:41:38,560 --> 00:41:40,120 it was forced to close down. 802 00:41:41,720 --> 00:41:43,160 Considered too unsafe 803 00:41:43,200 --> 00:41:45,320 and contaminated to be repurposed... 804 00:41:46,360 --> 00:41:47,960 The site lies abandoned. 805 00:41:51,720 --> 00:41:53,720 Today, the futuristic appearance 806 00:41:53,760 --> 00:41:55,200 still amazes the few people 807 00:41:55,240 --> 00:41:57,520 prepared to penetrate its daunting maze 808 00:41:57,560 --> 00:41:59,400 of concrete beams. 809 00:42:01,520 --> 00:42:03,040 It is now being preserved 810 00:42:03,080 --> 00:42:04,480 as an icon of design 811 00:42:04,520 --> 00:42:06,040 for future generations. 812 00:42:09,000 --> 00:42:11,080 After decades of being seen 813 00:42:11,120 --> 00:42:14,240 as a piece of industrial engineering, 814 00:42:14,280 --> 00:42:16,480 its beauty has actually shone through 815 00:42:16,520 --> 00:42:18,640 and that's the reason they now want to keep it. 816 00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:23,160 Now nearly a century old, 817 00:42:23,200 --> 00:42:26,280 power plant im and its iconic cooling tower 818 00:42:26,320 --> 00:42:29,280 show that when engineers get a design right, 819 00:42:29,320 --> 00:42:30,840 it becomes timeless. 820 00:42:34,640 --> 00:42:36,040 For me, 821 00:42:36,080 --> 00:42:40,880 I just love the mathematical and structural perfection 822 00:42:40,920 --> 00:42:42,680 that these towers represent. 823 00:42:53,760 --> 00:42:55,080 Now abandoned, 824 00:42:55,120 --> 00:42:58,320 they were once on the cutting edge of human engineering. 825 00:43:00,200 --> 00:43:02,360 Within these decaying structures 826 00:43:02,400 --> 00:43:03,960 are the echoes of history. 827 00:43:05,720 --> 00:43:06,880 They speak of war 828 00:43:06,920 --> 00:43:08,400 and terror, 829 00:43:08,440 --> 00:43:12,640 but also of exploration and human endeavour. 830 00:43:15,880 --> 00:43:18,880 Captioned by ai-media ai-media. TV 61562

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