Original subtitles

Welcome to the ninth annual festival Reel Rock Tour

Presented by North Face

REEL ROCK is proud to present the exclusive premiere of the new documentary

Sender Films and Big Up Productions

Uprising in the Valley

The history of the development of our sport in the largest area of ​​land climbing

North Face presents

in collaboration with Clif Bar

Sender Films production

Why people scale walls?

That is a good question

Because we are crazy. There can be no other reason.

in collaboration with BIG PRODUCTION UP

The beauty of climbing for me is that you can not justify it

not pretending to be anything useful

Some of us need to get out, to forge into the unknown.

your whole being is completely absorbed by the experience.

A moving meditation.

You open your perception and feel you could go on forever.

If you are a climber and dedicate your life to the pursuit of gravity you have to make a pilgrimage to Yosemite.

This is the place. - There are only Yosemite. - The land to prove. - The center of the universe.

Mecca of climbing.

This is where it all started, where it really took off.

The history of climbing is written on these walls.

It is a lineage. We come to the Valley to climb on the shoulders of giants.

You force yourself, you force the sport and see what you're capable.

It's a bunch of lunatics doing crazy things.

He is trying to make his mark and create new eStandards.

Pushing the boundaries and the status quo.

People living on the margins. So ragged. Seekers, visionaries, rare.

Living with nothing. -Ocultandose Law. And following our dreams with vigor.

Life is pretty good in Yosemite Valley, baby.

Uprising in the valley. Revolution climbing Yosemite Valley.

Written and directed by: Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen

Animation: Barry Thompson

Editor: Josh Lovell

Narrated by: Peter Sarsgaard

Yosemite Revolution began with a generation of climbers who came of age in the 1950s.

a time when America any less adventurous thing felt.

So join the flow of family life in the suburbs.

After the Second World War years, the nation had settled into a comfortable routine and safe

and new appliances.

Stupid American dream of the 50s were supposed to get married and have children immediately. Buy a dishwasher ...

Homogeneizarte all.

In classical Latin, safety and comfort were the main values. There was nothing more to the spirit of adventure.

But it was also a time of change.

In California, the Beatnik movement, led by writers such as Jack Kerouac, appealed to the youth to get rid of their conformity

and explore other forms of life.

Many went to cafes and jazz in the city. Others ended up on the beach to catch waves.

While a few adventurers, inspired by the vision of a Kerouac "backpacks revolution" headed for the hills.

Where they were to discover the world of climbing.

He started climbing in small schools on the outskirts of San Francisco and Los Angeles.

When I met first with climbing near Stony Point I thought, "Wow, this is wonderful"

The danger, commitment and risk. We were hooked on the adrenaline

At that time the climb was seen as a practice for mountaineering with the conservative approach to security.

The old school always had rules: "You can not post something unless you are a qualified leader"

But I wanted to have fun, so I said to hell!

We all start with, you know, basically tennis shoes.

We stole some rope from the telephone company. There was no harness so you atabas rope around his waist.

It was empowering for the character.

In the hands of these young rebels, climbing become a new adventure sport that seems to defy gravity and common sense.

Climbing, it was rare in those days but is part of the general culture today.

It was a kind of counterculture sport. And I really felt good living out of it.

In their quest for first ascents in virgin rock climbers they explored deeper into the mountains of California.

About 200 miles east of San Francisco is one of the great wonders of the world.

until they ended up in Yosemite.

I. The Golden Age 1955-1970

Yosemite National Park is centered along a valley 15 miles long. Surrounded by vertical rock walls carved by glaciers.

Acres of beautiful granite, soft and sheer. It almost became a believer.

There must be a god to do something like this.

It was a place where you could live so adventurous.

This gathering in Yosemite Valley was a group of climbers who began a journey to add their names to the history of these walls.

Guys like Royal Robbins,

Yvonne Cunard

Tom Frost

Steve Roper

and Chuck Pratt

We were a really hard-core climbers devotees trying to raise standards and to force its limits.

The primary vibration in the air was an atmosphere of great adventure

Until the 50s, climbing in the valley was led by John Salathe

Swiss eccentric who sought his dinner on the prairies and established the first major ascents in Yosemite.

When we reached the valley the king at that time was John Salathe.

He climbed with such imagination and daring and tried to imitate him.

Salathe be the mentor of this new group of climbers in the arts of rock in Yosemite

Using metal wedges called pitons to climb cracks. And drawing routes to ascend faces.

The majority of things out there waiting to be done

It was like going to the moon or something

The idea of ​​dedicating your life to climbing did not exist anywhere else.

We had one purpose: Climb hard, establish good routes. Only by climbing you can find yourself. Crap like that

None of us ever expected to have a job

We were going to be homeless, basically. And we were going to climb forever and that was it.

The epicenter of the emerging scene of the climb was Camp 4

a dark valley floor area that would become Sherwood Forest for this group of cheerful mountaineers

Ideally, life in Camp 4 was in place to make money, reduce expenses

It is not the usual way of life of the people.

One summer I went to a warehouse of damaged cans and bought lots of cat food cans

that's what we ate.

I mean, it is a life full shot.

Life in Camp 4 really took a countercultural tone of existence

There was a revolution in attitudes in our society then.

The climb was only one of its manifestations.

We were barbarians, vulgar, drank a lot.

And chased women, we were trying to flirt with them and not with much success, I must say.

But the beatnik bacchanal in Camp 4 conflicted with a group of very different values ​​in Yosemite.

Yosemite was a park for tourists. Designed for people of suburbs could enjoy nature without sacrificing comfort.

Young and old are intrigued by the enchanting beauty of this waterfall. Oh, look at the ice cream ...

Tourists will not like us in language that we used and our noisy parties.

Everyone was very drunk

Poor camper came and told us: "you can tone down, please, you are offending my family"

The rangers came and everything ended.

We hated authority. Still the hatred.

The escalation in those days was not a respectable activity. It was an activity of outlaws.

They did not like these people arrived strange, disheveled. Human unusual in Yosemite facilities bothering decent people

He was working at the Ahwahnee hotel

Yosemite address was very conservative. The climbers were not popular because they came and ate dishes people.

It was not supposed to hang out with climbers. We could even lose our work

what made it even more interesting

The first time I went to Camp 4 was a party in the woods. A climber who was just opposite

He stared at me and said: "You're a beautiful woman"

My first thought was: "This is really intense person"

The man across the fire was Royal Robbins, a legend of climbing even forged.

Even these days I consider myself primarily a climber. Every time I go to rock me feel complete.

Everything always had to do with climbing. It was his life. I did not think beyond.

Royal was very competitive with everyone. - Robins was a very dedicated person.

To win the respect of your peers have to raise the stakes.

You have to do better things as have been done before.

Robins was the leader of Camp 4 at a crucial moment in the history of climbing.

The equipment had evolved techniques were in place, the climbers had matured enough to face the great challenges of the sport

but major challenges remained undone.

Robins set his sights on a much larger and more vertical wall that anything that had been attempted before.

The northwest face of Half Dome

Possibly the most photographed in the world. -Masivo And intimidating.

Just another climb, this iconic train more than 600m high, would require an expedition to the vertical.

Go to a wall of about 600 meters, it requires several days.

No one knew if he had the skills, equipment and techniques necessary to survive so long in a wall.

It was big, scary. The face of Half Dome was there saying "try me if you dare"

Early one spring morning, Robbins along a small arsenal of equipment and a team of three people

they set out to make history at the Half Dome

The team follow a trail of cracks upward slowly as they put pins and carried their equipment and water.

The night passed off the wall. And the days were climbing higher and higher

until the soil removal was impossible and the only way out was through the top

This is one of the great acts of commitment to the unknown. Something like uncover a mystery

We felt as if we had entered a different world. It was a vertical world.

The 5 day ascent of Half Dome set a new standard of difficulty.

And they cemented the status of Robbins as the first American icon Escada.

You know, when you think Robbin ... He's the king, my god

Imagine a proto-intellectual beatnik, part of the classic interests

serious, honest man. Fully committed to himself, to prove he is a great climber Yosemite.

Want to be first, you want to be the best. Is natural

But there was a man rivaling Royal for being the king of the big wall.

Warren Harding. A surveyor road with its own appetite for glory.

His mother named him for president. But at age 30 still she is living at home

Drinking heavily and curing their hangovers with the adrenaline rush of climbing

When you imagine Harding, you think of a construction worker with a big drinking problem.

relentless hunger for women, fast cars and a sense of childish humor

Our personalities were very different. They were opposites, their personalities were opposite.

The conflict between Robbins and Harding was the conflict of the titans in the world of climbing.

Both had long coveted the Half Dome.

And when did Robins, Harding went for the only wall that is even greater Yosemite

The captain

Take the Empire State Building, apilalo three times and have the highest wall of Yosemite.

300m higher than Half Dome, El Capitan was beyond the imagination of Royal Robbins.

The Captain was impossible. We all knew. Even us what we proposed.

I mean, it seems so huge that you'll be there the rest of your life.

The captain was in the realm of the absurd. It was futuristic. But not for Harding.

For Harding was the only way to overcome the greatest feat of Royal

Choosing a route through the central spur of the wall, known as the nose (the nose)

The Nose is superb.

Harding met a group of young enthusiasts. And he embarked on a rally that was both an engineering project ...

Hundreds of meters of rope, wheeled carts to climb supplies

and a gastronomic orgy.

He is wearing all kinds of food and wine and brandy.

His mother baked us a turkey.

We put him in the cart and had Thanksgiving on a ledge.

While most of the climbs were made in an attempt, from bottom to top, Harding had a different idea.

While his team climbing, fixed ropes left, which allowed them to raise provisioning, lower to the ground

and then for an extended break to climb back up the rope slightly higher

It seemed a complete siege on the wall

As the months went by to become years, Harding's team had enough.

They reached a point where it was costing them too

This is too much, forget it. What the hell am I doing here?

I hated the whole time I was up there. He could not bear the courtyard

with members of his team about to leave, Warren Harding persisted

after almost two years of ups and downs over the wall Harding reached the top of El Capitan

My God, El Capitan is scalable. Unquestionably, the greatest feat of climbing of America at that time.

When Harding is on top of El Capitan is the time when the competitive side of Royal Robbins wake

and the tension between them is crystallized.

After Half Dome, the ascent of The Nose Harding was a very good move

very effective in Yosemite chessboard and to make the best moves would win.

Robbins response was to go with a team of 4 types and make The Nose correctly.

No fixed ropes, no up and down. A route it took to open 18 months

It took them one week to repeat. Royal was leading again

Throughout the 60s, while USA explored the vicinity of the earth. And the civil rights movement clamoring for justice

Royal Robbins was the vanguard of the explosion climbing in Yosemite.

After climbing The Nose, Royal established its first new route on El Capitan: Salathe Wall

The wall is massive and incredibly mysterious and anyone who has respect repeat today by Royal Robbins

To the late 60s he had done all routes in El Cap, had established three routes on Half Dome ...

If he decided he would do an escalation could be sure that the would. I never pulled anything.

Wall after wall, was the head of the golden age of Yosemite

With a series of impressive ascents to his name, Royal Robbins began to articulate a bold philosophy climbing

For Robbins, climbing was somewhat high, an almost spiritual task

and therefore it should be done in the purest form possible.

Getting to the top is nothing, the way you do is everything

Robins was a fan of the style. As you get up is so important

They noting the example of John Salathe of boldness and self confidence, Robbins and his company established a set of rules

how they believed they had to scale the walls of Yosemite.

Robins criticized one of the tactics of Harding to the Nose. Using fixed ropes up and down

You'll try to climb to the top honestly, there's the adventure. You do not become something safe using these umbilicals guide you from the ground.

Special contempt criticized the use of screws expansive Harding

permanent anchors that can be placed anywhere for any price rise to smooth areas of rock

if you put a bolt in the rock where you give the beats going to reach the top

I hate to see escalating dispossessed that part where you have to get over what is within you

Royal is the guy who dreamed and wrote the rules of the game that the rest of us played

All we are trying to do the climbs in the style of Robbins. Warren Harding except, of course

Harding made the most of his philosophy in a bar

Harding was making a list of tough climbs with very little regard for the rules of Robbins

Harding was filling all of bolts in a refined sense of the absurd

You were climbing and defining a farce, really absurd

Every climb I do is a sham, so why not have fun

He founded the association saw low eating, drinking and farces. Devoted to gluttony and sloth.

It was a reaction to the high ideals of climbing

Robbins used to describe as too serious and always considered Robbins and his people as Christians Valley

Valley Christian hoped everyone exactly as they escalate

If I bothered? yes, it was a mocking comment

Royal and have to be this crazy vulgar trying to undermine the beautiful world you're trying to create

It must be deeply irritating

And Harding, have this square head with his small group of acolytes and this rule and the other

They must become crazy about each other. Oh yes, they are pulling the other's throats

After more than a decade of discord

the final confrontation between Robbins and Harding came in 1970

Robins had led the show making a sensational ascent after another

Harding was anxious to make another ascent of El Capitan

Harding went after the only fragment Captain Robbins had failed to climb

the last of the large smooth areas of El Capitan. - The wall of the early morning light of dawn or the wall (The Dawn Wall)

But for the philosopher and head of Yosemite, The Dawn Wall was out of reach

It seemed too smooth, as it would require too many nails

Harding said, "Fuck it, I'll do it my way as usual. No one will tell me to do"

and a bag of nails Harding began his attack on Dawn Wall

With everyone below, Harding is hammering a nail after another, drawing a line with bolts

This is quite a sacrilege to the aesthetic sense of Robbins

I was pretty angry but thought: "What can you expect from Warren"

But this time, Harding heeded a page from the book of rules Robbins

Without using fixed ropes and climbing in a fierce effort from the ground with his partner Dean Caldwell

Warren was excited about the idea of ​​going as light as we could and make all the climbing in one sitting

Expected cost them 12 days, but at the end of the second week were only half of the wall

with scarce food supplies when they began to storm clouds gather

We said, wait for the storm to come, and opened a bottle of brandy

We did not know how much storm coming

The concern began to grow in the valley, these guys must be caught because they have not moved

The park service got nervous and the decision to mobilize people took to ransom

Did you ask for a ransom? No. I never think about retiring, we do not even consider.

The only thing we considered was to reach the top

But the bailout plan went ahead without the consent of climbers on the wall.

Harding yelled essentially "the uncles shit, perdeos not want to be rescued."

We finished the bottle of wine and think of a plan to fight

We fight them if they come to save us

He rolled down a can and there was a message in it:

"A bailout is not required, it will not occur and will not be accepted." And that ended with the rescue.

The media loved it. Two climbers Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell

They have been climbing the steep mountain wall ... throwing out the rescue helicopters ...

And they brought Harding's mother and was next to the wall and said, "is the longest he has been away from home Warren"

After setting a record of 28 days on the wall, Harding made his final attempt to the top

We thought it would not do, but I was determined to get it.

The Iron Man of Yosemite. And even Royal could have done that.

It has done? You should have already gone ... Have you had success?

Waiting rival, on top of El Capitan, they had an amazing view

There was an army of reporters on top. It seemed that the Beatles have just arrived from England for the first time.

Why do escaláis mountains, guys? - Because we're crazy, there can be no other reason.

Harding became the most famous climber in the history of America. - Climbing 900 meters,

Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell are with me in the studio. What was the note pasatéis to your rescuers?

I do not think that terminology is appropriate at this time.

While Harding traveled the country with his feat in Camp 4, Robbins was angry

Royal Robbins found this totally unbearable. I thought Robbins would not do it the right way.

He was furious, the number of bolts ... I think we got like 300 bolts

I was in my hands to do something or shut up so I decided to act.

Royal started in the top of Wall Dawn decided to remove a landscape of Yosemite chisel.

He stopped at the first bolt and cut it.

He stopped in the second and cut it. I asked: "Royal, what are you doing?"

He said cutting bolts, that's the game.

Royal made an attempt to send an incredible message

Harding, could not do that kind of shit again. The next day was loaded fucking each bolt.

Royal believed in his own sense of right and wrong and boiled in a destructive act of bitterness.

But something interesting happens. Royal is not far when the indisputable beauty of climbing outdone

At higher long Dawn Wall, Robbins realizes that Harding had not used only to ascend bolts

It was a creative and daring climbing

He said: "You know, this route is much more difficult than I had imagined"

Follow your path she made me go to my limit and admiration beat me by the level of expertise

Warren Harding was climbing in an inspiring way

So I thought, "this is nonsense, this is not right"

I stopped then remove and I decided to get to climb and leave the rest

Royal was very difficult to become humble, but I finally managed

And I think Wall Dawn was breaking point

It's hard to admit, but I think some of my reactions ... Harding had all the fame

and I thought I deserved any. And that was something personal, I guess it was something the ego

The struggle of egos in the Dawn Wall was felt in these gladiators they aged

And neither Harding nor Robbins return to climbing a big route in Yosemite again

The two stopped climbing and the rivalry that had been pushing them for 14 years

Robbins and his wife, Liz, founded a successful clothing company mountain.

Meanwhile, Harding spent his days with his mother on the porch with a drink in hand always

Remember when he was at the beginning of Dawn Wall, on El Cap in Yosemite? -Yes

And he was rich and famous ... -¿Rico? Where is the wealth?

Warren Harding 1924-2002

While the golden age ended Yosemite, cultural break in America became larger

We are talking about the first 70, Jimi Hendrix and the Watergate scandal

Vietnam was still going, and there was much discontent

There really was not much to cling

There was an alternative society so developed to hell with the government

Even national parks felt the impact

When hippies of the Bay Area (San Francisco) spread across the plains of Yosemite

We are two cultures, there is a conflict here

It seemed that the valley was ready for the next revolution

The Masters of Rock 1973-1980

In the early 70s, a new crop of climbers began to gather in Yosemite

As at 73 or 74 we started to reach the valley. -We Started to connect everyone in Camp 4 as a group

We were a little cocky We had just arrived on the scene

The new group of athletes included John Long hippies. I was at this living in poverty

Dale Bard. 'I had money, no food, nothing. - Dean Fidelman

What we had was a lot of style and a lot of balls. - Ron Kauk. - There is a feeling you get being here. - John Bachar.

- I come about 300 days on average to YEAR.- And the promise of 16 years, Lynn Hill.

It was definitely a culture of males, there was a lot of testosterone.

If you wanted to hang out with these guys you had to climb hard.

The old sage of these types was Jim Bridwell. - Bridwell, our leader. - Definitely the coolest climber there

During the great events of the 60s, he was an apprentice Bridwell Robbins and Harding

That cheeky boy with protruding ears like fucking Alfred E Neuman

But the guy who mocked at the picnic table in Yosemite grew to become the leader of Yosemite climbers

Climbed with Robbins, he climbed to everyone. That passion and commitment was something we were looking for.

Bridwell traced routes in areas where Captain Robbins and Harding did not dare.

Jim Bridwell was a kind of force, one can say. -New Routes on El Capitan: bold, dangerous

For me it's about seeing how far you can go. Exploring my limits and the environment while

While the big wall were on fire, climbing Bridwell gave a great deal of the Age of Aquarius

We had good drugs, you know, psychedelic

There is definitely a value that comes from the release of personality

In that period, Bridwell created a kind of tribe, became almost a matter of worship

Bridwell was a high lama, that's what it was. - The man was brilliant, worth

He was able to choose a line, knowing that require and then went and chose his team.

It was a kind of honor when Bridwell said he was going to climb with you.

But go climbing with Jim Bridwell could be a terrifying rite of initiation

When you're a teenager and you will not know a way, who knows what can happen.

You have no fucking idea what will happen when you get on these big things

You look down and it's not pretty, come to mind the worst possible scenarios.

We knew we were stuck in serious escalation with a real potential to fall and die.

And I looked and I said, "What you think," escaped by a whisker

You were setting up a new avenue with Bridwell and the guy is an acid.

Bridwell took drugs in the wall is like a goat. And I said, "Whatever, we are bound, if you take it, me too"

There is a fine line between courage and stupidity. It may have been crossing it.

In 1975 Bridwell thought a plan to do something that years ago would have been a fantasy.

Bridwell came with the idea that escalaramos The Nose on El Capitan in one day.

Yosemite's most iconic route, The Nose, had led him to Warren Harding almost two years since Royal Robins almost a week.

Now Bridwell wanted to climb the 900 meters in a single day. Are you kidding?

Leaving aside food, water and equipment for climbing several days go fast and light elegió

in a crazy attack the summit.

At night, Bridwell and his team were on top of El Capitan.

I think it was more important to come up before the bar closed.

Leaving no doubt that the new Yosemite troops had come to make their mark.

Take no prisoners and out of the fucking way, we are here.

Soon, the disciples of Bridwell became masters in their own right

We relied on adrenaline and an irrepressible ambition. We wanted to set new standards.

When we went to climb was not raise the bar, it was assumed

We replace it with a new game and a new form of climbing.

The break for our generation was free climbing.

Free climbing revolutionized the sport. What can we do only with our hands and feet?

In previous generations, aid climbing was the norm. With climbers using the material to support its weight as they climbed.

Put a wedge in the wall, tie a nylon ladder, climb the ladder and repeat the process. -The Equipment directly helped the climber.

Free climbing changed everything.

Now, climbers dangling from his fingertips in a grueling dance upright.

When you free climbing you use your feet and hands to hold on to the rock. You've got to put your fingers in the cracks, attach your feet

introduce protections occasionally, use the rope only to protect you if you fall. -Miras Up small holes and do not know if you'll force

You burn the forearms, fingers begin to open - "Eye now" -

and you just have to go for it. - "I fall" "I'm fine" Free climbing demanded a new level of athletics. With crashes and climbers climbing boulders.

Bridwell team was dynamite, climbed in Yosemite physical Liston in his era.

Everything we did was eat, sleep and climb. And train. -Practice Like crazy.

Trying to be stronger. You had to have steel toes, no fat

But even more than this was the mental aspect. Tell me when you can drop

It was a bold era. Rolling, Ron Kauk.

Upload the limits of free climbing was our most important goal. Do not fall off first because you'll feel.

-¡Roca "Using cracks is promoted as a step and then the rock is broken"

Are you okay? - Yes, I was just a little loose. 'I've been scared to death

Our goal was that we were able to find out for ourselves, that's what gave wings to our imagination more than anything.

United in the idea of ​​free scale, the group soon had a name: The Masters of Rock.

Yes uncle, the Masters of Rock. -Be A master of rock it means you have to climb each day as if it were the last

And you have to smoke a lot of weed.

The name "Masters of Rock" came in smoking a bong at Richard Harrison.

Some say "masters placed". 'We were young, wild and we felt we were the best.

These new guys came and climbed better than us. Jim Bridwell had a parrot in his camp.

While us old dogs, we felt it was not appropriate. Hey, you're supposed to be in communion with nature as John Muir,

instead of a fucking radiocassete.

I think they did the right thing, I was perplexed. They were raising the bar and challenging the status quo

Sex, drugs, rock and roll .. climbing. - Living in the bare margins of society, in the madness.

Camp 4 for us was a dirty, unhealthy quagmire. It was heaven

We camped together, trained together, were climbing together

Our little group together among the boulders, somehow ended up in this beautiful place

and hooked us

It was like magic, a very special time to be in Yosemite. We were in utopia, we were the kings of utopia

The climbers had in mind that Yosemite evolved for them. It was not this proliferation of shops and things for tourists

The main feature of Yosemite were rocks. And who used these rocks, it was us. The place was for us.

But it was not how he saw the national park.

In 1970, at the height of protests against the Vietnam War,

thousands of hippies gathered in San Francisco for a bacchanal Yosemite

When the Rangers moved to shut it down, the situation got out of control. It's an angry mob.

It is all a revolt. My eyes are burning from the tear gas

Since then the park rangers carry guns and the obligation to strictly enforce the law

A lot of hairy being thrown by the police and I'm glad

Although few climbers were involved in the riots, his long hair and attitude put them in the crossfire of the cultural war

I think there were climbers among the people involved in the uprising but after that the climbers were not welcome.

He began to have more and more control in Camp 4

There was a real battle between climbers and rangers.

They began to organize, to control who was at Camp 4, a snoop who walked smoking pot.

Misconduct, traffic tickets, camping outside the limits.

I had my part, I have been arrested, all of that ... The police were always looking for you, trying to kick you out of the park

and so we became outlaws

Some Rangers despised us. 'You are about freeloaders, free live here and have entered into resources

Because climbing is so free, you know. Living in the car or wherever, just enjoy life.

Many climbers were very fit so used to take the girls.

I think there was very zealous for the Rangers. They were pretty pissed off because they had to work

and we had to do anything, just have fun

In 100 years from now no one will remember but no ranger will remember Jim Bridwell

They will remember what the climbers of that time because it made history, and the rangers knew, and pissed them.

In the winter of 1977, a mysterious cargo plane that flew under the radar crashed in the mountainous areas of Yosemite killing both pilots.

There's a plane returning from Colombia and crashes into a lake. - "It seems that a plane has crashed in mountainous areas"

A climber has a girlfriend who works as a telephone operator hears a conversation on the plane and carrying

Climbers found out and went to see what happened. They -Miraron on the lake ...

the nose of the plane protruding from the ice. - And they could see black shadows under the ice.

They managed to break the ice and had a bag with a marijuana leaf

They opened it and "oh, my god is grass". - A very powerful red variety of Colombian grass.

And there are hundreds of bags, okay? And then began the frenzy

Guys up at night with power saws, cut ice, drew water drug.

It started as a trickle and became a stampede. -The Climbers came and they took every bit of marijuana.

He had started the gold rush

He began to smell the boiler in shops people. He had a interesting smell.

The grass was soaked in gasoline for the accident. I gave him a good drag

And then Boom! there was an explosion. There was kerosene therein. I singed eyebrows.

Had an explosive effect, people liked

Climbers down to Berkeley and Los Angeles and sold and returned with his hands full of dough

We made a lot of money. A lot of money!

Suddenly climbers had new cars, eat in restaurants. -The Liquor flowed, steak dinners everywhere

People left $ 100 tip. 'People built houses

Rangers were unaware the plane until there was nothing left. "I got mine in Lower Lake Merced Pass"

By that time much marijuana they had taken many climbers. "The little secret of Yosemite: A plane crashes, thousands of adrenaline."

They were good times for Stone Masters

They had lots of pasta and a growing reputation as the center of Yosemite climbing became the world

If you were a climber Yosemite you wanted to show the world that you were the boss

The twenty-Lynn Hill proves that a woman can handle any mountain

A woman may feel he has to prove he's as good as a man

but for me it is not so, I force myself to go as far as I can.

It was a small revolution. - Ron Kauk Yosemite, an American legend of climbing

All these strong and talented climbers created a healthy competition that always kept you going to the next level

But perhaps no more than Stone Master brightness legend in Southern California, John Bachar

When we first met John Bachar quickly we realized that it was serious

When it comes to train climbing and I have not seen anyone who comes close, not even close

It bachar soon became a specialist in the simplest and most dangerous form of escalation

Only integral. - When John Bachar scale literally hold your life in your fingertips

Cordless, without pythons, hands only, cats and magnesera. This is only comprehensive

Leave the string back, just you and the rock

The idea of ​​climbing without rope, the slightest error, a slip of the foot, no margin for error

If you fall, you fall all over the wall and hit the ground and die. No second chance. -Only Takes a moment of loss of concentration.

For John, the only comprehensive final form was the master of climbing. I work at a ball, you have to unite body and mind to do well,

I am seeking to become one with the rock. - It was a little distant and could be arrogant

Many people say I'm suicidal, do not understand what I do, I have no idea. As far as I'm concerned there is no risk.

Because I'm not going to fall. Everything he did was methodical and perfect.

He put the masters (master) in Stone Masters. - It started to become famous, really famous.

Prepare to meet John Bachar. John Bachar is considered the best free solo climber in the world.

Bashar took off in their own space. "We will teach them a new meaning to the expression: escape by a whisker"

"The essence of climbing: John Bachar" - "You have to know the rock, every centimeter." "The essence of shaving ..."

A mid-80s, Bachar and Stone Masters were integrated into society

But for once scruffy troop Camp 4 was a sudden change.

Climbing champion Ron Kauk knows the risks and difficulties of the conquest of the mountains that likes Ford Broco II

When nobody thought we would be a lot of money or become famous

It is when the change occurred.

The lifestyle change fun to have to make a living with this

which it is the way to make a dollar here and there

When you're young it's hard to keep all this in perspective

When you become famous and let them put you on a pedestal, if you start to believe your own myth that upsets you

The Stone Masters began to develop professional rivalries

"The international championship of climbing"

Many of the Stone Masters joined the trend of climbing that included competitions on artificial walls.

And rock drills to place bolts were used in walls collapsed.

Creating physically demanding climbs with minimal risk.

For many of us sport climbing was a natural evolution

This technique allowed us to increasingly tough climbs in the toughest imaginable walls.

John Bachar had become an icon for its comprehensive alone was a fierce critic with the direction being taken by sport

You know, they come people will do anything to become famous

I can only make a pitch

It's ridiculous, there are more rookies than ever but only make me look good

He said hard to face people what they thought

Live by ideals that basically only could meet.

Bachar was like Royal Robbins, a purist, very philosophical with climbing; was everything to him.

When colleagues Stone Masters tactics brought the sport to the walls of Yosemite, Bachar was angry

Bachar up and cut the bolts that pissed people and things got ugly.

Bachar cut some bolts of a road that had equipped. I was pissed

and I said, "if you cut my bolts again I will give you a host" the challenged me and I punched

Chapman gave him a punch in the face Bachar

The Stone Masters were fighting each other. We had been a happy family

It was my family, with whom he had grown up. Shit, man, I have to choose sides?

When we arrived we were frivolous and our ability to live simple, climb together, climb the walls together

Certain things start to happen with which you can not identify you only follow your path

There was no link between us. -And we were not the same community. - It was sad because we were really close.

Meanwhile, the valley had joined the Stone Masters had changed.

Ten years later the whole place went corporate.

There is parking, no fees, no camping areas. Everything became more limited, refined, more controlled

In 1978 about 2.5 million people visited Yosemite

The Stone Masters fit into what was not what had become

By 1980 or 1981 the reign of Stone Masters is over.

It was the end of an era

After leaving the valley, the Stone Masters followed their own paths

The old mentor was Jim Bridwell with wall climbing skills to establish first ascents from Alaska to Patagonia

It was the adventure, for the sole purpose of climbing. Lionel Terray said it well: "conquerors of the useless."

The climbing wall is something for young people. One day you wake up and you're no longer young

John Long, the speaker of the group went to Hollywood to spend money plane crash in a blockbuster movie

I wrote a script and sent it to Sylvester Stallone. The modified version was eventually "Cliffhanger"

John Bachar after his break with Stone Masters lived outside the valley to raise the bar of one free

another 20 years. - Bachar never changed. - John stood his ground and continued up the limits

I think Bashar was one of the outstanding sports figures of the twentieth century. Categorically.

And one day, at age 52, the master of the Stone Masters fell and died climbing

But history does not end there Stone Masters

When I left California in 1983, I traveled around the world and explored all sorts of ways to climb

... I won competitions ... - "Fantastico ... and Lynn Hill wins the world championship.

But Yosemite was always in my mind. - In the early nineties, Lynn Hill returned to the land of Yosemite

with a bold vision. - I wanted to be the first person to make a free ascent to The Nose on El Capitan

It is the most famous and historic climbing the world and seemed the culmination of all my skills as a climber

Until then, all roped climbing The Nose, Warren Harding Jim Bridwell had to climb artificial, hanging from the team to reach top

The next big step was: "When will be free climbed?"

A free ascent would mark the final completion of the revolution begun by climbing Free Stone in the Masters 70

Free climbing The Nose was a prize. The most visionary climbers were after him, they wanted and tried

And Lynn gets it spectacularly. - Oh my God, can be scaled freely Captain

It was revolutionary and was a woman. There goes, guys.

The ascension of Lynn Hill rocked the whole world Ladies and gentlemen, the best climber in the world: Lynn Hill!

And it was the catalyst for a new generation of climbers on pilgrimage to Yosemite

Many characters started coming to Yosemite in the mid-90

The first time I got to Yosemite I screwed up.

Cap ... Oh look, it is 10 times more than you thought

Yosemite was like the promised land, a legendary place

Come to Camp 4 having heard of people who did great things, of the gods of Yosemite

Bachar and Kauk, Robbins and Harding. - They are my heroes are the people on whom you read

You stand there wondering if you can forge your own legend

Soon, a generation of ambitious young had revitalized the sleeping situation Yosemite

A group that in the next 15 years remain to Yosemite on the crest of the wave of modern climbing

And as a nod to the previous generation called themselves the Stone Monkeys (Monkey Rock)

Yes, it is running again. The new generation is brave and has become wild

Monkeys members include wall pirates, vagabonds full time and some of the best climbers in the world has ever seen

I spent years of my life up there, grabbing those mini strips, jumping between buckets,

suffering heavy falls. I do not know what happens but I love this shit

The Stone Monkeys are world class athletes. They are stretched but are basically a bunch of misfits

Anyone who wants to climb a wall and shit in a bag is a special kind of person.

They do not do well with the laws and regulations. - Problems with authority. - Near-death experiences daily

Bridwell in the period were the Stone Masters Monkeys now. 'These guys continue to carry the torch

His fire still burns in the heart of the valley

III. Stone Monkeys 1998 - prezent

The era of the Stone Monkeys begins when a native of New Hampshire of 195 cm, Dean Potter hit the valley

At first it was super intimidated, the walls were so big and inaccessible

I was overwhelmed with only survive here, clean one side of a boulder and make my home

Camp 4 was full of people who lived on the margins. - Oh my goodness! This is so scary

Everything was trust, join the circus and be free

Dean started making these outrageous comprehensive alone

Dean was one of those who took more risks. I was looking forward to it before anyone else.

Dean is the alpha male of the Monkey

It is the leading spiritual revolution. - In large walls, Potter accelerated the game, high risk of escalating speed

Climb these walls as fast as humanly possible

the speed record Captain was a measure of the state of the art

When Monkeys joined the competition the record began to fall rapidly

Until Potter Sean Leary and his companion reached the top of the wall in 2h 30m 900m

It's a win absolutely. - It's the message that my generation has left to the valley.

Then Potter climbed El Capitan and Half Dome in a day, alone.

Artificial was only a new form of faster and more efficient climbing. - It's like a gladiator sport

You do everything necessary to get at any price to the top as quickly as possible

I wear a piece of rope climb with me but mainly in single comprehensive

Dean was the first time in a long time making climbing Yosemite take a new direction

He was doing things no one had done before. Dean Potter while out in the headlines, an impressionable boy Sacramento

called Alex Honnold was discovering the sport in a climbing wall.

When I was a child in the climbing wall could say was obsessed with climbing, would not call it obsession

it's just that he loved more than anything climbing. Read magazines, I watched videos,

and while growing up, the person who appeared in the news was Dean Potter. Dean just up The Nose and Half Dome in a day ...

is the most inspiring things I've seen in climbing.

I gave it all I got in my car and started to come to Yosemite to prove with previous generations

to see what others have done and if I can do and see if I can be as good as Dean Potter.

When Alex first appeared in the valley was a shy boy who was hiding in the shadows and not know what to do

It is a clumsy and stupid guy with big ears and a bad haircut. It's that Dean Potter, oh god ... someday, maybe ...

That guy with frightened face that he did not know ... yeah, that was me

When you think of Yosemite climbers you think of Dean. Long hair, smug attitude, a rebel

Then Alex Honnold appears; Carefully grid. 'I had pasta for hero. But as soon as the cat gets feet

it's like Clark Kent becoming Superman.

Loose in the valley walls, Honnold was an immediate impact.

This guy, Alex is really on another level. - He breathes, sleeps and eats climbing. - He is a student of the history of Yosemite.

and he wants to be part of that legacy. In The Nose, El Capitan teamed up with old rival Dean Potter in speed climbing, Hans Florine.

to smash the record for Potter.

And while Dean had climbed El Cap and Half Dome in a day, Alex raised the stakes by adding the 700m wall of Mount Watkins.

Definitely delivery lead after Dean. The road opened and the impossible no longer exists.

Once you know that you can do just harder scales.

Climbing alone in a continuous effort day and night Alex climbed the three highest walls of Yosemite in just 18 hours.

It is up just below ours. - Oh God. It's crazy. - May I congratulate you? - It was a pleasure - Congratulations.

Yes, I had mixed feelings when Alex appeared. But things are like this

when the next generation comes and breaks the barriers you welcome.

Alex was stirring up a hornet's nest of Dean, challenging the supremacy of Dean but this is required to widen the bounds of possibility

Alex has made his most indelible mark on the single integral. Cordless discipline leading to larger and more difficult routes.

Alex Honold is amazing. This being the only integrated to a new level

He took what Bachar started and continued and I can hardly believe the things that goes in alone.

Bachar makes things even dreamed up in one.

My solos in Yosemite grow from what Dean did before me and what Bachar did before him.

Just a little harder and a little bigger.

He has done things that you see them makes me feel uncomfortable but you have to respect the vision of the next generation.

There is definitely a master's degree in one, it's like the final exam.

Are you going to get into this one? Are you comfortable in this position? Are you able to do?

Part of the challenge is the only physically, having to scale well to avoid falling

but part is being a small dot in a vast ocean of rock

All alone on these walls undaunted

The challenge is to feel in control. Even knowing that you are in a dangerous position can enjoy the experience.

While continuing Honnold raising the stakes in the only comprehensive, Potter explores new ways to test the limits of gravity and risk

Taking the classic activity break Camp 4 slackline. - Slackline, you know in the camp

just walk 3cm wide and master the balance. And raise it to an art form of challenge to death.

All I do is become freer

When I am not blocking highline fear. I feel fear absorbing everything around me

I try to calm my heart, not hyperventilate and stay focused

Damn! Damn!

I see what I do as a photo. I look at the wall or the space between the formations and I want to go there

And I see a picture or photo and live

I'm trying to do something totally different feeling creative

find new ways to deal with my fears

Yosemite is such a powerful place. The perfect rock, and the perfect light and huge walls

brings us to the vastness and beyond what we thought possible.

The Stone Monkeys have something in common, their love of love for this place.

But Monkeys are not the only love Yosemite.

Hey! Crazy!

These days visiting the park about 4 million tourists annually.

Yosemite Valley has become a small town. Hotels, restaurants, gift shops, a courthouse and jail

All vying for space in a valley less than 1.6km wide. To manage the public park services adopted a new policy

limiting the stay of each visitor to 7 days camping year. - Since September 15, campers in Yosemite Valley

they can only be 7 days. - For most tourists a week is enough

But for climbers, this weekly limit is a threat to its existence. - 7 days, you can just start in 7days.

If you want to do great things in Yosemite you have to be there at least a month.

You have to spend years in these walls, if you want to be a Yosemite climber you have to break this rule

Those who want to stay longer have to do it illegally, hidden among boulders sleeping.

As I can not be more than a week in Camp 4 and want to climb, this is my home.

I live here between the blocks. - Their illegal status has made climbers and rangers are in conflict as never before.

The rangers forcing fulfill that regulation often are not happy. It's a game of cat and mouse

Rangers carry tasers and night vision. -The Two o'clock, a flashlight illuminates the face you and hit you

you're like, "what happens, what happens"

You know, the Rangers have gone from having a degree in biology. No, no, young lady, do not you have said that you have to get flowers?

to have a diploma in marksmanship

All this bullshit. I understand fully that the park needs rules.

But I do not like when I am not free. -Hi, what's up?

turn off the camera. Uh, no thanks. -Turn The car. Why you have stopped me?

I expected to miss at that intersection. No thought I was stalking

The Stone Monkeys as we try to live 30 years ago and that goes totally against the laws and regulations

This mentality has taken over Yosemite, I do not know how they do it.

In an effort to avoid the Monkeys system met with a foreign leader.

Charles Tucker, alias Chongo Chuck. It -Apareció here 20 years ago and never left

Chongo is a master of survival backpack. -The Showed us how easily outwit the rangers

He taught us to sleep and not be caught. 'We showed that you can live under the radar.

Chongo is a kind of adventurous Yoda. -The Monkeys appeared and was teaching them all my tricks

how to reach the adventurous life you want. It was Chongo who taught people the slackline

Chongo is the godfather of slackline. He says, if I can do slackline, you too

You have a lot of confidence in me, Chongo. -HA Written books from wall climbing to theoretical physics

This is my interpretation of quantum mechanics bum.

He shared his secret for a free breakfast at Yosemite. -Paquetes Biscuits and butter

Ten packages of butter on a piece of bread, butter 1000 calories. Backpacker basic survival.

Do these things and you will not spend money and you can be here all year.

Climbing, slackline, such is paramount. Only you are young once to go out

and do things that people want to have done when they are too old to do them. That is life, this is live

Chongo is a spiritual leader and the Rangers wanted to make an example.

After years of hiding in the shadows, the guru of the backpack was not well received among park officials

Chongo Chuck who said they had lived long enough in Yosemite

A whole team of rangers set out to catch Chongo. They tried to put you in jail Chongo for something, anything.

They followed him. They're haunted by night, using infrared goggles and could not catch him.

He is a wanderer with five backpacks

The so slowly walks through the forest, you can not follow someone who is slow because it is so obvious

Chongo sleeping between trees and shrubs

He disappeared. -The Rangers had a file on Chongo with hundreds of pages of information

These guys crossed the line of logic in attempting to bring to justice Chongo.

The rangers said he was a master of the countersurveillance

It's ridiculous

After a year of persecution the park service mounted a case against Chongo and taken to court.

We had the court full of backpackers every day during the trial. He stank inside.

When the judge came his words were, "Mr. Tucker, his ten years in Yosemite over."

I left this beautiful world to the center of homeless in the capital of the state to live under a bridge.

That contrast was stronger. - For Chongo ranger it is an outcast, is dirty. For us it was our founder.

The expulsion of Chongo Chuck was a sign that the days of freedom outlaw could be a thing of the past.

Many climbers today come with that is very different than it was in the 60s and 70s

When I saw pictures of the 60 it was like a never-never land and lost children.

It must have been fantastic, but today we must share with the other 4 million people come to the park each year.

Everyone has their time to enjoy Yosemite. For me it's okay, I drive out of the park and sleep at the side of the road

outside the camping areas because it would be illegal. And that is the commitment I am willing to do.

Because the important thing for me is climbing everything I can here.

The Rangers thought if we took away the leader would stop the whole tribe but by no means goes to backpackers

no way they will stop the Stone Monkeys. Chongo and all that before I vienieron

I have shown with the spark of an idea and the intention and the will can make it happen

The next evolution in the walls of Yosemite climbers led in a new direction while Dean and his fellow Stone Monkeys

They began with grassroots sport jump. -Product Jump- is BASE jumping from objects with a parachute.

The same formations that make Yosemite a paradise of climbing are also ideal for BASE jumpers

You can not jump to this level anywhere else in USA - You have this launching pad to thousand meters in a leaning wall, it is perfect. Now many climbers are BASE jumpers.

It makes sense, and scales up to high jump. -All Monkeys have become flying monkeys.

Practically everyone I know are BASE jumpers and is a good way to get down.

Not only climb the wall, you also have the ability to fly with your body from it.

Many climbers see the beauty of flying. But base jumping is illegal in Yosemite.

and the law is pursued with rigor. - The Rangers haunt us and hunt. -the Maximum fine is 5000 dollars and six months in prison.

Base jumpers are faced with dozens of criminal charges.

An incident with a taser. - I shot with a taser, 50000 volts, in the back of the neck.

Even a tragic death. They're hunted up a river and chased him until he drowned.

But in spite of the risks, the jump in Yosemite continuous basis.

If you're going to do base jumping in Yosemite, as I have heard, do you prefer probably just at dawn or just before dusk.

Climb to the top of Half-Dome and wait for the sunset. There rangers activity and receive information from the eyes to the ground.

It seems to be the area, I will give the green light.

At the edge you go crazy in plan: "Oh God, I'm going to die now?"

Ugh, what fear, fuck. Even if you know that you can make the jump this in mind

will happen if someone is waiting in the trees. Do you see anyone? You hear someone? -I do not. -You are freaking guy.

I'm not freaking out. -We are prepared? -prepared, 3,2,1 ...

Once you jump, that brief moment, everything is perfect

Do not think, just fly.

All the tension that has accumulated disappears into thin air. 'Everyone thinks that base jumping is what most scares the world

No, it's the most fun.

Flying is a basic human desire. -to Extend the wings and mingle with birds. It's one of the best feelings in the world.

Especially in Yosemite, our home.

When you go to 2 meters something you feel that you move to 160km / h

Walking through the valley terrain

Once the parachute opens I start to search my rangers who are looking for escape route

I have a jumper on the prairie Cap

Be quiet - The Rangers believe they rien jumpers in the face, they can not catch us.

But it's not like that. For me this is my art and be free and unfortunately means I must dodge the law.

To Potter, base jumping is the key to a new way of promotion

I have been pursuing this vision alone climbing parachute. Climbing with a parachute for safety basis. I call it "free-base"

With a parachute, climb without rope is no longer a game with zero margin for error and can be forced to limit the fall.

I can now do just integral to the limit

Free-base is something visionary. It has the potential to open up new walls to be climbed in just safely.

By practicing free-base in Yosemite, Dean, crossing a fine line. If he slips and falls and opens his parachute will be saving his life

but breaking the law.

This is a new form of climbing that passes in front of the face of the law of Yosemite.

Dean basically does what you want, follow your vision. It's rebellious behavior.

Hello Hello. -How are you? -All right. - Would you like a map and a newspaper? - No thanks

Will you let me smile for the camera? -Thank you

In the past 60 years, climbing has evolved into something incomprehensible to the early pioneers of these walls.

But this basic yearning for adventure continues equal. Into the unknown and go beyond the possible.

When Alex Honnold walk to the base of Half-Dome to start the 700m track, no equipment,

unless their cats and magnesium.

Half-Dome was first climbed in 1957 and was the first big-wall climbed in the world. 50 years later,

Honold Alex appeared with the idea of ​​climb without rope and is, in a sense, an expression of what is happening now.

Just as Robbins attracted to Half-Dome it is the same thing that attracted me.

The greatness of the face of the wall. I do not know how to explain how awesome it is.

Being alone on a wall makes you more modest but also feel part of something larger; the rich history of climbing in Yosemite.

Alex climbing Half Dome only shows the progress of climbing in Yosemite.

Yosemite climbing is constantly evolving. People come to make a statement about what is possible with passion and vision and heart.

Yosemite always be there for people who have a free spirit and enough power for all of us who want large-scale adventure.

I'm Kristof, Austria. - I'm from Switzerland. - I'm here for the Cap.

Enjoy climbing

My name is Taylor Free Single Rees. My name is "only free" by my hippie mother

My name is Sean O'Neill and I am here to climb El Capitan. 500 dominated a day, for a week, I can not wait.

While the sport has matured climbing Yosemite climbers have made an effort to clean up its image.

Yosemite Facelift This is a cleansing event I started four years ago

Climbers and rangers work together to clean up the park. Though there has always been friction between climbers and rangers

I think the park service recognizes that climbers really love this place. They want to protect Yosemite and when the time comes the mission is the same for both groups.

But at a time of good will, there is still the heart of Yosemite in a spirit that is not so easy to fool.

Many climbers have carried the torch of revolution Yosemite

Here are some whose stories do not appear in this film

Because in the end, you will not remember the time you used to work in the office or mowing.

Scale that damn mountain.