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in this video we're going to be fixing a
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water leak on the Vox or corser now this
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is not an engine leak this is one that's
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leaking inside the car it's rainwater
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that's actually seeping in and getting
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inside the car and making the carpets
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wet so in this video this is what we're
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going to do we're going to repair this
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leak and show you just how to do it in
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step by
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step so as you can see this is inside
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the car itself and the floor is wet even
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to the touch you can see there's PS of
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water in there now the the water is um
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coming in from around the brake booster
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uh seal it slips in the rain wall runs
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down it and it just builds up and pulls
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up inside your car and then it gets
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trapped in here so this is what happens
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this is a very common thought with this
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type of
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car okay so so under the car now we've
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lifted up the Bonnet and you've got to
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remove the Scuttle panel just underneath
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the window now that's a Torx and uh the
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rubber still comes off now to the left
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of the window you've got an 8 mil bolt
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there which you've got to remove same
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thing on the other side just take them
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off then once you've removed them it's
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onto the next stage of just removing the
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the uh wiper blades now I did this in a
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bit of a backwards way but really you
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should just remove both of them at the
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same time but this was the first time me
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doing this job so it took me a little
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time to work out and as you can see
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there I'll just remove the washer so now
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once you've loosened up everything
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around there once you've done loosen
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them two bolts it's just about removing
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the plastic molding a lot of it Clips in
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and there's only a few screws really
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it's not that many screws at
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all so then once you've done did that
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you can see I'm just moving the battery
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wire out the way just to make some space
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and I'm just shaking off the wre hyper
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motor you may have to shake it a few
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times depending because sometimes these
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do sees on and they can be a bit
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difficult to get
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off so this um Scuttle panel comes off
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in two parts like it's like 2/3 and 1/3
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on the other side so once you've loosen
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it just pull it apart and undo the
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washer
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hose um be careful here cuz these can
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break so just take your time and try and
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pull them off you know they can be a bit
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stubborn so for this when we had to
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remove the battery as well remember to
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remove the negative terminal first just
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buzz it off and just start to undo
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everything around there cuz you're going
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to need access to that the bulkhead of
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the car so you can start to remove
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everything around
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it the um this this like I said before
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you should have removed the wiper motor
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both time both at the same time but this
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is the order as I did it so I'm showing
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you exactly the way I did it but you can
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move them both at the same time and be
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careful that the nut doesn't drop down
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there like my did
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okay so now that's done just give it a
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little shake off can take a bit of time
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like I said
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before and then the uh the last piece of
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the Scuttle panel should just ease up
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like I said just work it
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around there you go now we're going to
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need to remove the water bottle this is
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the washer bottle to give you more space
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remember to take off the clip so I just
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under the clip and lifted up the plug
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itself these can be seized just slip
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that clip ring back over it so it
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doesn't go Miss and you don't lose
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it now the the hose to the washing jet
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bottle just pulls off and you can put
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that away save so you can come back
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later and do that so here now we've got
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the wiper motor itself now this is
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pretty easy to remove just undo that
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there undo the plug and then it's I
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think these are 7 mil again just take
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your time and undo these come up pretty
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easy same with the other side and this
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got like a little location bracket at
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the back you're going to have to slide
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it left which I didn't really show you
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very well there but you should be able
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to work it out once you see what's going
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on now this is the intake the air intake
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the air cabin filter so it's four Torx
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screws don't remember what size they
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are but just undo them they will come
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off there's only four and it just pulls
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out like that really simple stuff now
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you can see the St that pollen filter so
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it probably be a good time to change it
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if that's if yours is in the same sort
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of condition is my one so we get rid of
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that for the minute we also got to
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remove the battery tray which is 30 mil
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bolts there's four of them just just
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just undo them like if you've got one of
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these um handheld uh electrical
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screwdrivers it does make things a lot
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easier because once you're on it you can
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just pull it off so like I said remove
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that battery tray as well there you go
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put that to the side put it all
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somewhere safe and I just giving you a
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look of what goes on in here and this is
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why it blocks up cuz this turns into
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mush and uh blocks up the outlets which
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are located at the bottom just
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underneath this brake booster and just
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on the other side that we was looking at
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earlier so this is why it gets stuck
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under there I'm trying to give you
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different shots you can even see even
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though the top part of it it's actually
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quite dry down there where there's no
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sunlight and no breeze it's still pretty
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wet so we're going to move the brake
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booster hose I'm using my ratchet
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spanner I believe this is a 13 also and
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do the same the other side here just
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unscrew it remember not to drop the
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bolts cuz you won't find them again
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they're really hard to believe so we're
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trying to create as much space as
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possible by removing the wire and all
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the grommets out of the way so we can
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really reach in there you can see what
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I'm doing here and then just once you've
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undone your um master cylinder just lift
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it up try not to manhandle it too much
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but just enough so you've got enough
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space to actually get to work on it so
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that should be your way out of your way
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enough now now it's going to look
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something like this here's me just
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scraping up some of the crud that I
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could actually get my hand on to just to
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show you what was actually under there
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and this is what holds the water and
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this is what makes it seep into the car
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because it can it can pull up and end up
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into your car now from the inside of
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your car it gets a bit trickier here
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well not tricky but you have to undo
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this um this panel here which are torqus
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I think they're
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15 and and then this um little GL cubby
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hole actually holds it in so once you
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undo the tabs at the top it pull down
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and it will drop out You' be able to
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pull it out really really easy like that
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there like I said make sure to keep all
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the screws in a good place so this is up
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underneath the brake pedal and this is
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the right side of the brake pedal you
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can see a 30 mil bolt there trying my
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best to show you cuz it's a really hard
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shot so this is the brake pedal itself
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and on the other side there's another
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bolt there now like I said it is a
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little bit tricky to see and it was very
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difficult to record so I did my best to
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show you what you need to do so I moved
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the accelerator cable this is the gas
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pedal this was 230 mil bxs like I said
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this is a gas pedal now and then just
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drag that off there you
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go and then this onto the brake this is
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the other side of the brake master
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cylinder so I'm undoing this bolt here
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once I release this this will make the
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actual brake booster hose free itself so
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yeah you can see what I'm doing I'm just
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un loosening both bolts both sides of
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the pedal
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there so now back at the brake booster
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hose you need to remove the booster pipe
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you see I just caught my finger there be
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careful cuz this is what happened to me
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and I was not happy I was not happy at
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all so be careful don't drag too hard
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try and get a better tool to do that so
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now this is back underneath the pedal it
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should be all freed up
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now so you be able to move it but you
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need to just remove this split pin now
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this goes from the booster onto the
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pedal itself so you move that split pin
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you can see there on the pedal and then
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remove the spring for the brake pedal
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itself and then you need to push through
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that lock in Bol which the split pin
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came off of there you
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go so that's what the stat that springy
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clip or not that spring kick behind it
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but the the split pin that we took off
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once you've done that it makes the brake
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booster free and you can remove it
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totally so now we're looking a closer
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look at it and we can see where it's
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been keeping wet and where it's been
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seeping into the car so this is your
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problem there's going to be cracks in
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the seals and this is what makes it leak
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back into your car so with a standy
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blade I just started to cut off all of
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the old mastic the old silicone the the
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manufactured silicone that was already
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there you can see what I'm doing now I'm
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just cutting it all out and just
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trimming it back because I don't really
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want to be um putting silicone on top of
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the old stuff that's already there so
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I'm taking my time to really remove
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everything that's around there and so I
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can get a clean connection on whatever
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I'm doing so clean it out as best as you
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could or this is what I did with a
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screwdriver and everything
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try and tidde it up as best as possible
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cuz very difficult in there so even with
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everything moved and um yeah just just
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just get it tighty as possible cuz you
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got to clean it up so with my brush and
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some soapy
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water all I did was just clean up around
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the area so you can see exactly what I'm
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doing here just making sure it's as
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clean as possible getting rid of any
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debris because when we come to put our
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mastic on it won't stick on to dirty
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surfaces so you know even if you need a
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little Scara brush that I'm using there
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just do that and get it nice and clean I
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decided to clean the rest of it as well
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just to get any rubbish out of the way
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and make sure everything was clean and
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flushing as it's supposed to cuz there's
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some little gullies underneath there
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which is supposed to let water run past
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it so here it is now as you can see it's
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just drying off I used the cloth just to
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dry up the area make sure it was nice
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and clean nice and dry because like I
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said this is probably one of the most
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important parts that you get it correct
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and clean on this area now there are a
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couple of other little places random
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other grommets which you got to make
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sure they're clean they're not split
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this is a good time to analyze
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everything you can see what I'm doing
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here once it's nice and clean and dried
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now it's just on to cleaning it up with
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some uh methylate spirit I cleaned it up
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with just to make sure it's 100% grease
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and dirt free so I cleaned the areas
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where I was going to be adding my uh
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sealant to all around these areas here
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so just make sure it's nice and clean
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and totally prepped and prepared to take
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on the seiling you're going to be
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putting on so once you're happy that
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your car is all prepared now it's time
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to start adding your sealant now I used
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the roof sealant now number one it was
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because what was available at the time
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but there are other sealants you can use
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now the reason why I used the re sealant
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because it was um it was happy to it was
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compatible with metal
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Uh Wood um rubber all that sort of stuff
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so I thought this would have been most
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suitable and also it's it's made to
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withstand heat cold and all the sort of
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environments that this would be exposed
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to movement and everything else so this
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00:11:46,360 --> 00:11:51,200
is what I thought would be suitable for
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this particular um application but there
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are some other ones there are some other
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Automotive um se you can use but I
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thought this would be all right because
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of its qualities that it's got so what
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you got to do is you got to run a good
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strong bead as you see I'm doing around
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there and like I say just take your time
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you're going to have to really reach in
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there and stay focused and make sure
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you're getting the points you need to
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get if you're not sure and it gets a bit
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messy just go over it again I wouldn't
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be too worried about the mess as long as
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you're getting it in the places it needs
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to get into as you can see doesn't look
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too bad there but I was a bit worried
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about one part so I added a bit more but
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this is what I didn't I think is a good
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idea for anyone else I think it's good
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advice for anyone else if you're not
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sure about a particular part just add a
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bit more until you're until you're
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comfortable it doesn't really matter how
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it looks no one ever sees this part so
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just make it as just make sure it works
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you know instead of it being pretty
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that's all I would suggest so before
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putting on the master cylinder I decided
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just to use a little bit of sealing
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around the area where it connects onto
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the actual panel itself you can see I'm
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just running a bead of SE just around
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the edges there so when I actually screw
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it on it squeezes tight and offers
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another protection barrier cuz this is
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00:13:07,440 --> 00:13:11,079
you don't really want to be doing this
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job twice so like everything else here
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00:13:11,079 --> 00:13:16,639
is just a reversal of taking it off so
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00:13:14,480 --> 00:13:19,839
you push it through make sure
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everything's all right and uh line up
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the
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bolts there you go you feel it sitting
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and then you know it's in really easy
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stuff and then it's underneath NE back
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underneath where the pedal is make sure
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you got your bolts nice and tight
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because you don't want any problems
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here make sure that's all good you're
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going to have to do the accelerator as
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well remember this is in a bit of a
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tricky position so you know just make
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sure you're getting it right as it is
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also the brakes as well and you're going
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to need them so you don't want no
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problems here so don't forget any part
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of this if you've missed anything just
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watch the way it was removed to
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reinstall it and you'll see to put the
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split pin on and all them bits and
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pieces
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now it should all go back on pretty
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easily you make sure to tighten
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everything up not to overtighten it
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there's your gas pedal your accelerator
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pedal put back your put back your uh
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brake tray your your battery tray and
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everything back as it
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should so it's all really easy stuff and
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it should really keep it should work and
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keep your floor from getting wet hope
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that helped don't forget to comment rate
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subscribe
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he
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