Original subtitles

in this video we're going to be fixing a

water leak on the Vox or corser now this

is not an engine leak this is one that's

leaking inside the car it's rainwater

that's actually seeping in and getting

inside the car and making the carpets

wet so in this video this is what we're

going to do we're going to repair this

leak and show you just how to do it in

step by

step so as you can see this is inside

the car itself and the floor is wet even

to the touch you can see there's PS of

water in there now the the water is um

coming in from around the brake booster

uh seal it slips in the rain wall runs

down it and it just builds up and pulls

up inside your car and then it gets

trapped in here so this is what happens

this is a very common thought with this

type of

car okay so so under the car now we've

lifted up the Bonnet and you've got to

remove the Scuttle panel just underneath

the window now that's a Torx and uh the

rubber still comes off now to the left

of the window you've got an 8 mil bolt

there which you've got to remove same

thing on the other side just take them

off then once you've removed them it's

onto the next stage of just removing the

the uh wiper blades now I did this in a

bit of a backwards way but really you

should just remove both of them at the

same time but this was the first time me

doing this job so it took me a little

time to work out and as you can see

there I'll just remove the washer so now

once you've loosened up everything

around there once you've done loosen

them two bolts it's just about removing

the plastic molding a lot of it Clips in

and there's only a few screws really

it's not that many screws at

all so then once you've done did that

you can see I'm just moving the battery

wire out the way just to make some space

and I'm just shaking off the wre hyper

motor you may have to shake it a few

times depending because sometimes these

do sees on and they can be a bit

difficult to get

off so this um Scuttle panel comes off

in two parts like it's like 2/3 and 1/3

on the other side so once you've loosen

it just pull it apart and undo the

washer

hose um be careful here cuz these can

break so just take your time and try and

pull them off you know they can be a bit

stubborn so for this when we had to

remove the battery as well remember to

remove the negative terminal first just

buzz it off and just start to undo

everything around there cuz you're going

to need access to that the bulkhead of

the car so you can start to remove

everything around

it the um this this like I said before

you should have removed the wiper motor

both time both at the same time but this

is the order as I did it so I'm showing

you exactly the way I did it but you can

move them both at the same time and be

careful that the nut doesn't drop down

there like my did

okay so now that's done just give it a

little shake off can take a bit of time

like I said

before and then the uh the last piece of

the Scuttle panel should just ease up

like I said just work it

around there you go now we're going to

need to remove the water bottle this is

the washer bottle to give you more space

remember to take off the clip so I just

under the clip and lifted up the plug

itself these can be seized just slip

that clip ring back over it so it

doesn't go Miss and you don't lose

it now the the hose to the washing jet

bottle just pulls off and you can put

that away save so you can come back

later and do that so here now we've got

the wiper motor itself now this is

pretty easy to remove just undo that

there undo the plug and then it's I

think these are 7 mil again just take

your time and undo these come up pretty

easy same with the other side and this

got like a little location bracket at

the back you're going to have to slide

it left which I didn't really show you

very well there but you should be able

to work it out once you see what's going

on now this is the intake the air intake

the air cabin filter so it's four Torx

screws don't remember what size they

are but just undo them they will come

off there's only four and it just pulls

out like that really simple stuff now

you can see the St that pollen filter so

it probably be a good time to change it

if that's if yours is in the same sort

of condition is my one so we get rid of

that for the minute we also got to

remove the battery tray which is 30 mil

bolts there's four of them just just

just undo them like if you've got one of

these um handheld uh electrical

screwdrivers it does make things a lot

easier because once you're on it you can

just pull it off so like I said remove

that battery tray as well there you go

put that to the side put it all

somewhere safe and I just giving you a

look of what goes on in here and this is

why it blocks up cuz this turns into

mush and uh blocks up the outlets which

are located at the bottom just

underneath this brake booster and just

on the other side that we was looking at

earlier so this is why it gets stuck

under there I'm trying to give you

different shots you can even see even

though the top part of it it's actually

quite dry down there where there's no

sunlight and no breeze it's still pretty

wet so we're going to move the brake

booster hose I'm using my ratchet

spanner I believe this is a 13 also and

do the same the other side here just

unscrew it remember not to drop the

bolts cuz you won't find them again

they're really hard to believe so we're

trying to create as much space as

possible by removing the wire and all

the grommets out of the way so we can

really reach in there you can see what

I'm doing here and then just once you've

undone your um master cylinder just lift

it up try not to manhandle it too much

but just enough so you've got enough

space to actually get to work on it so

that should be your way out of your way

enough now now it's going to look

something like this here's me just

scraping up some of the crud that I

could actually get my hand on to just to

show you what was actually under there

and this is what holds the water and

this is what makes it seep into the car

because it can it can pull up and end up

into your car now from the inside of

your car it gets a bit trickier here

well not tricky but you have to undo

this um this panel here which are torqus

I think they're

15 and and then this um little GL cubby

hole actually holds it in so once you

undo the tabs at the top it pull down

and it will drop out You' be able to

pull it out really really easy like that

there like I said make sure to keep all

the screws in a good place so this is up

underneath the brake pedal and this is

the right side of the brake pedal you

can see a 30 mil bolt there trying my

best to show you cuz it's a really hard

shot so this is the brake pedal itself

and on the other side there's another

bolt there now like I said it is a

little bit tricky to see and it was very

difficult to record so I did my best to

show you what you need to do so I moved

the accelerator cable this is the gas

pedal this was 230 mil bxs like I said

this is a gas pedal now and then just

drag that off there you

go and then this onto the brake this is

the other side of the brake master

cylinder so I'm undoing this bolt here

once I release this this will make the

actual brake booster hose free itself so

yeah you can see what I'm doing I'm just

un loosening both bolts both sides of

the pedal

there so now back at the brake booster

hose you need to remove the booster pipe

you see I just caught my finger there be

careful cuz this is what happened to me

and I was not happy I was not happy at

all so be careful don't drag too hard

try and get a better tool to do that so

now this is back underneath the pedal it

should be all freed up

now so you be able to move it but you

need to just remove this split pin now

this goes from the booster onto the

pedal itself so you move that split pin

you can see there on the pedal and then

remove the spring for the brake pedal

itself and then you need to push through

that lock in Bol which the split pin

came off of there you

go so that's what the stat that springy

clip or not that spring kick behind it

but the the split pin that we took off

once you've done that it makes the brake

booster free and you can remove it

totally so now we're looking a closer

look at it and we can see where it's

been keeping wet and where it's been

seeping into the car so this is your

problem there's going to be cracks in

the seals and this is what makes it leak

back into your car so with a standy

blade I just started to cut off all of

the old mastic the old silicone the the

manufactured silicone that was already

there you can see what I'm doing now I'm

just cutting it all out and just

trimming it back because I don't really

want to be um putting silicone on top of

the old stuff that's already there so

I'm taking my time to really remove

everything that's around there and so I

can get a clean connection on whatever

I'm doing so clean it out as best as you

could or this is what I did with a

screwdriver and everything

try and tidde it up as best as possible

cuz very difficult in there so even with

everything moved and um yeah just just

just get it tighty as possible cuz you

got to clean it up so with my brush and

some soapy

water all I did was just clean up around

the area so you can see exactly what I'm

doing here just making sure it's as

clean as possible getting rid of any

debris because when we come to put our

mastic on it won't stick on to dirty

surfaces so you know even if you need a

little Scara brush that I'm using there

just do that and get it nice and clean I

decided to clean the rest of it as well

just to get any rubbish out of the way

and make sure everything was clean and

flushing as it's supposed to cuz there's

some little gullies underneath there

which is supposed to let water run past

it so here it is now as you can see it's

just drying off I used the cloth just to

dry up the area make sure it was nice

and clean nice and dry because like I

said this is probably one of the most

important parts that you get it correct

and clean on this area now there are a

couple of other little places random

other grommets which you got to make

sure they're clean they're not split

this is a good time to analyze

everything you can see what I'm doing

here once it's nice and clean and dried

now it's just on to cleaning it up with

some uh methylate spirit I cleaned it up

with just to make sure it's 100% grease

and dirt free so I cleaned the areas

where I was going to be adding my uh

sealant to all around these areas here

so just make sure it's nice and clean

and totally prepped and prepared to take

on the seiling you're going to be

putting on so once you're happy that

your car is all prepared now it's time

to start adding your sealant now I used

the roof sealant now number one it was

because what was available at the time

but there are other sealants you can use

now the reason why I used the re sealant

because it was um it was happy to it was

compatible with metal

Uh Wood um rubber all that sort of stuff

so I thought this would have been most

suitable and also it's it's made to

withstand heat cold and all the sort of

environments that this would be exposed

to movement and everything else so this

is what I thought would be suitable for

this particular um application but there

are some other ones there are some other

Automotive um se you can use but I

thought this would be all right because

of its qualities that it's got so what

you got to do is you got to run a good

strong bead as you see I'm doing around

there and like I say just take your time

you're going to have to really reach in

there and stay focused and make sure

you're getting the points you need to

get if you're not sure and it gets a bit

messy just go over it again I wouldn't

be too worried about the mess as long as

you're getting it in the places it needs

to get into as you can see doesn't look

too bad there but I was a bit worried

about one part so I added a bit more but

this is what I didn't I think is a good

idea for anyone else I think it's good

advice for anyone else if you're not

sure about a particular part just add a

bit more until you're until you're

comfortable it doesn't really matter how

it looks no one ever sees this part so

just make it as just make sure it works

you know instead of it being pretty

that's all I would suggest so before

putting on the master cylinder I decided

just to use a little bit of sealing

around the area where it connects onto

the actual panel itself you can see I'm

just running a bead of SE just around

the edges there so when I actually screw

it on it squeezes tight and offers

another protection barrier cuz this is

you don't really want to be doing this

job twice so like everything else here

is just a reversal of taking it off so

you push it through make sure

everything's all right and uh line up

the

bolts there you go you feel it sitting

and then you know it's in really easy

stuff and then it's underneath NE back

underneath where the pedal is make sure

you got your bolts nice and tight

because you don't want any problems

here make sure that's all good you're

going to have to do the accelerator as

well remember this is in a bit of a

tricky position so you know just make

sure you're getting it right as it is

also the brakes as well and you're going

to need them so you don't want no

problems here so don't forget any part

of this if you've missed anything just

watch the way it was removed to

reinstall it and you'll see to put the

split pin on and all them bits and

pieces

now it should all go back on pretty

easily you make sure to tighten

everything up not to overtighten it

there's your gas pedal your accelerator

pedal put back your put back your uh

brake tray your your battery tray and

everything back as it

should so it's all really easy stuff and

it should really keep it should work and

keep your floor from getting wet hope

that helped don't forget to comment rate

subscribe

he