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Awesome.
So the section we're getting into right now
is addressing the best lenses to shoot a
wedding.
Now, a side note.
They're best for me, right?
Like, I don't want anybody to walk away
thinking, like, either, oh, I need that lens,
because you don't if it's not applicable to
your shooting style.
Or you might walk away being like, she's
totally missing this lens.
That's true, but I have found what's worked
for me by a series of trial and
error.
But before we get into what I think
are the best weddings to shoot a wedding,
I want to first show what is in
my bag.
So I'm going to start off by just
kind of outlining how it works for myself
and JD.
We carry our gear in a think tank
airport bag.
That is how it's listed on the website,
because this is sizable enough to be checked
in above, and that's very important.
We do not ever check any of our
bags.
We do not check our clothing bags or
our gear bags when we're traveling for a
wedding, because if we lost either one of
those two things, we're completely off our game,
and it will affect how we work.
So on a wedding day, if we're just
working locally, this is the bag that carries
the majority of our gear.
And then we have satellite bags.
So this is the Brixton bag by Ona,
O-N-A.
And I absolutely love how these work for
us.
Now, they are on the pricier end, but
they're on the pricier end because they are
made of genuine leather, and they last forever.
Now, it looks like a side bag, which
is what I find appealing, because we do
a lot of personal travel and a lot
of business travel.
I stay away from camera bags that look
like camera bags, because they're kind of like
blurring advertisements to steal thousands of dollars worth
of gear.
Now, JD uses the Brixton bag, and I
use the Brooklyn bag.
I love both those bags.
I will take this bag on an engagement
session, because I just love the look and
feel of it.
But on a wedding day, I have found
that it's a little too big for me.
The Brooklyn bag is smaller.
But I'll walk through what the gear that
I use.
I shoot with a Canon 5D Mark III.
Excuse me.
This camera has changed the way that I
approach weddings.
I first started shooting with a Canon 20D,
which is what is referred to as a
prosumer lens, a prosumer camera.
So it's a slightly professional camera for a
consumer.
I then, after that, upgraded to the 5D,
and it changed my life, because I went
from a crop sensor to a full sensor
on the 5D.
And it was fantastic, and the color files
were different.
I stayed with the 5D through the transitions.
I got the 5D Mark II, even though
the color files kind of were a little
bit tweaked.
But it had video capability and higher ISO
capabilities, which I really loved.
The 5D was like the perfect unicorn child,
because the focusing system increased.
It went to a 64-point focusing system,
which was fantastic.
In my early days with CreativeLive, people would
always ask, why are you dipping your camera?
Why are you dipping your camera?
And I didn't understand what I was doing
until I had seen a few-second clip.
And I realized that I was finding the
focal point closest to my subject, and then
shifting and recomposing.
And I was shifting and recomposing in between
every single frame.
And so with this, to find one of
64 points really makes it so much easier.
And I find that my photos are a
lot more in focus as a result.
So I shoot.
This is how I keep all my cards.
And I keep it in my bag.
Now, how we indicate that a card is
fresh, we have it facing up, fresh meaning
that it has been reformatted and has been
backed up on another source.
When we are done shooting with it, or
it is to indicate that it should not
be touched for the rest of the day,
it is flipped upside down and placed face
out, so that we know if I'm working
with an assistant or if JD picks up,
he knows where I am at any given
point in the day.
Although he should never be touching this, because
he has a whole set of his own.
But just in any given case, if I'm
like, hey, can you grab me a card,
he knows what I am referring to.
Now, this is a Lowepro bag.
I've gone through different bags where there's Velcro
along the side.
I have done where all the cards, all
the clean cards are in one pocket and
all the used cards are in another.
I just felt that for some reason, this
worked for me a lot better over the
years.
So we're gonna go to my most favorite
lens and the lens that I use the
absolute most, because for my style, it is
the most diverse.
It is the Canon 50 millimeter 1.2.
I use this so often.
As you see in lessons of me doing
the shoots and as you will see, I'm
guessing highly on the wedding day with the
knot.
This is my go-to lens.
This is what I travel with.
This is what I use.
This is how I curate personal aspects of
my life.
I love it because of its versatility and
I can use it at every single time
of the day.
Every single time.
The 50 millimeter never leaves my bag because
I need it at some point or another.
The fact that it's a 1.2 gives
me a lot of option when it comes
to varying available light.
I can be in a dark room during
prep and I can just shoot at an
800 ISO and at a 1.2 and
produce images that I'm still really proud of
and that truly reflect my style without having
to use flash.
My second most used and favorite camera is
the Canon 35 1.4. This lens was
such a great lens and I didn't get
it up until later on in the game
because I had stylistically, earlier in my career,
had purchased other L series lenses thinking that
that was what I needed.
But truth be told, up until I think
this was three, four years ago that I
got this lens, this was the lens that
I needed.
Because of my style, I'm a lifestyle photographer,
I should be staying away from really wide
photos because I can't curate width to such
a large degree but I can curate depth
to a degree.
And when you use a lens like the
24, the 16 to 35, both lenses that
I own, I was getting far too much
in the frame to actually convey the fact
that I was a lifestyle photographer.
I use the 35 for couples portraits and
landscape pictures but the beauty of the 35
is that it's measured closely to what the
eye naturally sees from periphery to periphery.
So what you're looking at is what you're
going to get when shooting a full frame
camera.
Third most used lens would be the 85
1.2. This lens is so heavy but
it's beautiful and it works so well and
you get creamy, buttery skin tones.
When shooting a bride specifically at a distance,
there's something about the compression of this lens
that produces such a beautiful photo and you
can really see bokeh so magnified by using
this lens.
I understand that there are very few photographers
who like, not few, but there are fewer
photographers who like using this lens because it
does take a longer time to focus.
We're gonna get into the differences between the
85 1.8 and the 1.2, both
lenses that I used and loved.
But for some reason, that 1.2, the
creaminess of skin tones when you lock into
a bride's eye and there's light flickering off
a tree in the background, it's stunning.
So we're gonna move into other gear that
I use on a wedding day.
So the fourth lens that I use the
most would be the 70-200 IS 2
.8. Now, this lens is the lens that
every wedding photographer needs, not wants, you need
it.
Now, it's also expensive and I don't really
use this lens at any other point besides
the ceremony.
Because of this, if you're kind of figuring
out what lenses you need to buy and
when, I would heavily suggest that you rent
this lens for every wedding that you shoot
without the pressure of having to buy it.
But you need it because in shooting in
a dark church or shooting at a ceremony
and you have to shoot at a distance
by request from family members, by a priest,
by a church lady, this is the only
lens that's gonna get you close enough to
yield the type of results that you need
and you want.
There is a 70-200 without IS image
stability.
Image stability has been a life changer in
really dark situations.
It really is clutch.
Now, if you're more of a photojournalistic photographer,
this lens is amazing.
That's definitely what you want to use.
Now, this lens is the 100 millimeter macro
IS.
This is a great lens and I love
it.
I wish I used it more for different
parts of the day, but quite honestly, I
use it just to shoot the ring.
If the bodice of the dress has jewels
on it, I will shoot it then.
And maybe, just maybe, I might use it
during the reception if I feel like there's
a lot of dangling jewels that I need
to get detail shots of.
But this comes out of this bag maybe
once a day.
But I have invested in it because I
know that I could not get the ring
shots that I want without this lens.
So now what we're gonna move into is
what I call my lazy girl lens.
I love it, but I don't use it
as much as I did.
This was the very first lens that I
ever bought in my career.
And I say I, and I really mean
JD, because I didn't believe in myself enough,
so he bought me this lens.
And it was such a great lens to
learn from because you were able to see
width and depth.
It ranges from a 24 to 70.
It's a zoom lens, and I thought it
was great because I thought that photographers, if
you had a zoom lens, you were just
legit.
I mean, little did I know.
And so this was such a great lens
in that I was able to get diversity
without having to change lenses on my camera.
But I could not get the results that
I wanted without shooting prime.
The fact that it shoots widest at a
2.8, which is beautiful and which is
lovely, was wonderful, but it wasn't what I
was looking for stylistically.
I really like what you can shoot at
an F2, at an F1.2. Those types
of results are only yielded with wider apertures
that I couldn't get here.
I still use this lens often.
I might bring it out on a wedding
day, but it's more traditionally for family photos.
If I feel family photos are gonna range
really quick between four people and all of
a sudden we have 20, I don't wanna
keep on having to swap lenses, so this
is a great clutch lens for that.
Now what I wanna get into a little
quickly are these two lenses.
This is the 50 millimeter 1.4. This
is the 85 millimeter 1.8. These are
the lenses that I started with.
10 years later, they are still kicking.
10 years later, these are what J.D.
shoots with exclusively.
They're our wedding guests who have nicer cameras
and lenses, maybe not nicer cameras, nicer lenses
than J.D., and he doesn't care.
We had business discussions about, we can get
a write-off if you want a new
lens, and he said no.
He does not like shooting the 85 1
.2 because it focuses far too slowly for
him.
He is a slower, methodical photographer.
I am the spearhead.
My style is lifestyle, but J.D. within
the lifestyle spectrum shoots a lot more photojournalistic.
He does no posing.
He captures moments as they happen.
So you'll see him a lot more at
a distance with the 85, and because these
types of moments happen so quickly, he does
not like the gee, gee, that this camera
produces.
This right here is golden, and it's amazing,
and both of these lenses independent, or each
one is less than $400.
These are such great lenses to start with
if you're trying to build your portfolio and
starting off with prime lenses.
I love them, and you get the most
bang for your buck with them.
I have a backup camera that I take
to every engagement session and wedding, and it
stays in the bag, but before we shoot
a wedding, we are always syncing our cameras
to make sure that all the shooters who
are shooting have the same timestamp.
So all three, four of our cameras are
backed up at the same time before every
wedding.
Now, what we're gonna get into is this
lens.
This is the 16 to 35, and you
might be thinking, what is she doing with
that?
I will say that this was the third
lens that I got in my business, and
this is the third lens that I got
in my business because I saw my wedding
photographer use it, so I thought I needed
it.
16 millimeters is so long.
It's like a, wide, it's like a hair
away from like a fish eye lens.
I mean, it is wide, and what I
thought was really important, this lens is somewhere
in the ballpark of $1,200 or $1
,300, and I bent over backwards.
I saved and I saved and I saved
to get this lens, and then I used
it for maybe a couple weddings.
I can't let go of it for sentimental
reasons, although I did think that maybe after
this course, I haven't, about to stop by
JD, I thought that I would, because I
have not used it, I used it for
a few weddings 10 years ago, I thought
maybe I should auction it on eBay and
then donate all the money to charity because
I don't use it.
I don't use it, I think it should
be given to, not given, sold to the
highest bidder for a goodwill.
So this other winner wins, a charity wins,
and then it's not on my hands and
I don't feel guilty for not using it
as much.
Although, this would be so fantastic and really
wide, like if you wanna shoot all the
guests at once, if you wanna stand at
a distance and shoot down to the guests,
that works, but the problem with shooting at
like a six, like so wide at 16
millimeters, is that there's so much distortion along
the sides that if somebody is standing on
the end, you know, and they're this way,
it's like their booty got like five inches
deep, that's probably not the thing that you
want.
One last lens, I went a little bit
out of order, but this is the 24.
Now this was the first L-series wide
angle lens that I got because I thought
that it was something I needed, but in
true reality, what reflects more of my style
would be the 35.
But I still am so happy that I
shoot with the 24 because the 24 is
the lens that I use the most during
reception dancing with guests.
Because you're always in really tight areas, and
people like shooting with maybe the 50 or
the 35, you get maybe one, maybe two
people dancing in the frame, and dancing photos
aren't ever really all that complimentary of people,
right?
They're just not.
But shooting with the 24, you actually, it's
a storytelling lens.
You get more of who's dancing around them,
and then the picture becomes a story instead
of a very curated photo.
So this right here is what you will
see me day in, day out shoot with
during reception dancing.
Now let's move into light.
So this is a newer addition to my
bag.
This is the 600EX-RT.
This is the newest Canon flash.
I was shooting with multiple different types of
us, always Canon before, but this flash is
worth it.
I think that when it comes to gear,
truly lighting gear, you get what you pay
for.
This lens, you can easily get a 400
series flash, and it does not perform the
way that this does, and because we do
this professionally, and I always shoot in dark
receptions, this has paid off in gold.
So how I usually shoot is I will
bring up this, I will tuck the clear
part back, I will flip up my white
card, and now I have a bounce card.
And this is how I shoot all the
time.
I might, in difficult situations, or without something
to bounce above me, I might tip it
forward ever so slightly, but this is definitely
where it's staying.
Now, some people might wonder, well how is
she getting the light that she does, and
we're gonna get into that in a second,
and it comes in two ways.
I feel like I'm on QVC.
Okay, great.
So for those who are interested, here is
the 580EX-II.
This is what JD's flash will be.
Same white card that flips up, and that's
what he shoots with.
Now, before I show this one, tuck this
one away, I wanna show what our lighting
looks like in pinch situations.
These are dot line LED lights that videographers
normally use.
You can change the color balance and the
strength behind them.
These are about, if my memory serves me
correct, about $119 a piece, but they are
worth their weight in gold.
We will get into really dark situations, and
a client may or may not have, okay,
so when I first started shooting, I didn't
have the luxury of clients lighting up their
receptions.
Now, the bigger the budget gets, the more
type of lighting that they can afford.
They might pay for, first and foremost, lighting
on the dance floor, which is helpful, but
what's helpful from an ambient perspective is a
client can pay for up lighting along the
wall.
Even better is if they have what we
call up lighting, and then they have pin
lighting.
Up lighting is against the wall, putting up,
illuminating the walls to create a sensation of
depth, and pin lighting is pointing down at
certain aspects of the room, say, like centerpieces
that should be noted.
It really makes the biggest difference.
However, I have shot a ton, and still,
to this day, shoot weddings that do not
have pin lighting and up lighting.
Most of the weddings now, you can get
really great up lighting options at an effective
price, so more brides are adding it, but
not everybody will add the pin lighting.
So, JD will hold a light as a
pin light about four feet from the table,
and then hold another light as a side
light.
So, we are illuminating about one table at
a time, but it actually looks like it's
professionally lit, and that's what I'll take, because
that's setting my work already apart from others.
And so, these are really helpful.
Also, in situations where we're at the reception,
and it's sometimes dark, and I'm in a
dark corner, I'll have JD hold the light
off to the side, or from behind them,
and then I will shoot them with my
flash.
And so, now we get a little bit
of rim light around their hair, so it
just doesn't look like that traditional poof picture.
That's a very big description, right?
Like, poof.
Okay, now let's get into, we'll get into
my off-camera lighting setup.
So, this is what we take to every
wedding anywhere in the world.
This is a very simple, standard tripod.
People have asked me what the tripod was,
but I bought it like eight years ago,
and it's almost 100% something generic.
It doesn't even have a label on it.
So, just know that you can get a
very simple, basic tripod.
This flash is I can't get it off,
oh, here it is.
This flash is a really old school, you
can't find these anymore, which is why I'm
not going to endorse them officially.
It's a SunPak Auto 383 Super.
I mean, you guys, this is just laughable.
But the beauty of this flash is that
at the time I bought it, it was
$100, and I can manually set the power
of the flash to 116.
I need a tiny bit of pop of
light, and I also need the batteries to
recycle quickly.
Shooting this at 116, it was firing every
time that I needed it.
So, this is a Westcott Rapidbox.
It's an Octo Mini.
I have shot with bigger.
I used to shoot with the Photoflex, and
it was about, I think, 20, 22 inches
in diameter.
It was pretty big, but what I realized
was I didn't need it to be diffused
in such a capacity.
In fact, in a pinch, I could just
shoot with this flash off in a corner
by a speaker, and we would be okay.
But I just like the soft appeal that
we get with the small diffuser.
And the beauty of this is that this
folds down to be really thin, and then
this breaks down to be really thin, and
we pack it at the bottom of our
suitcase.
Great.
So, what we're using now on that flash
is a Canon 580EX.
So, we're gonna set this manually to 116
power.
It'll be the same thing, and we're gonna
set it up on the dance floor.
And how does this get fired?
Well, this gets fired, and this is a
question that I get so often from photographers.
How do we fire the flash if the
flash is on my camera?
Okay.
So, usually, when you shoot with a pocket
wizard, which is what I have to fire
my flashes.
Now, I understand that there are gonna be
photographers who say, well, the 600EX-RT have
sensors that you could be chatting to your
other matchable flashes with.
Yes, I know, and I heard they work
great, but on a wedding, I need a
clear view between my, my sense, like, why
am I getting caught up?
My flashes need to be facing each other.
With this, it's a surefire thing.
And when my clients are paying me for
what I need, the trigger system works so
much better for me.
So, pocket wizards are great, but usually, they
are put on top of your camera.
But I needed a two light source.
So, I went into a photo shop in
Orange County called Sammy's, and I said, I
need a pocket wizard because I don't shoot
with a battery pack.
I think it's just more weight on my
hand that I don't need, and I'm okay
switching out a battery because it takes me
about two seconds.
So, I usually think of a battery pack.
It takes in the screw up in the
area, but because I don't have a battery
pack, I have the screw available.
I walked in, I said, I shoot with
a flash.
I need to mount something to the bottom.
So, this little genius of a guy went,
and they sold pieces to cameras, and I
don't know what he did.
He just walked behind, and he picked out
four different pieces.
Okay, this right here is what he made.
I don't know what these pieces are called.
I have no idea.
I actually told JD that we could probably
try to replicate it and then sell it
to photographers, but it was a joke, and
I wouldn't do that.
I don't know exactly what he did, but
he was a genius.
So, what we do is we screw this
into the bottom of our camera, and these
always stay connected.
Here we go, now we're cooking a fire.
Okay, so then now it's plugged into the
bottom, and I simply plug it in to
here.
That's my setup.
So, every time I click, this fires here,
and then wherever I am in the room,
this right here, we just simply tie it
here.
We slip it in.
We like a slipknot right there.
The flash is here.
Wherever I am in the room, this off
-camera light setup does not move.
We want to make sure that the money
our clients have spent to decorate the room
isn't degraded by our lighting gear.
So, we put this next to a speaker.
The light is black, and in a dark
room next to a black speaker, it's not
very noticeable.
So, people ask if I move this around
for optimal light.
No, but I find ways to position myself
to actually leverage that light.
I love shooting with this behind any subjects
on the dance floor, but sometimes even if
they're side-lit, you can get a really
cool photo.
If I happen to be moving on the
dance floor, and I'm standing anywhere close to
where this thing is illuminating my subjects, I
turn off my camera light and just use
this.
So, during a first dance, we're gonna get
to that in a second, we're gonna get
to that in a second, but during a
first dance, I have become accustomed of shooting
with two light sources, one light source, one
or one or none if we're working with
a videographer, and I can shoot at like
1600 ISO at a 1.2 and produce
photos that I really like.
So, now what we're gonna do is we're
going to go through what it looks like
at each portion of the day.
So, now we're actually into the section of
what are the best lenses to use at
different portions of the day.
So, with preparation, JD is with the guys,
and I am with the girls.
JD's setup, when he shoots the guys, this
for wide, 24 to 70 for guys, the
50 1.4, the 85 1.2, and
we have 100 millimeter macro, but not the
IS, the original model, that's what he uses
for the guys, and he'll use that to
shoot like tie clips or cuff links.
Now, when I'm with the girls, the lenses
I carry with me are the 35 millimeter
1.4 to get wide shots as she's
preparing.
I get the 85 1.2. I will
use this as she's getting her makeup if
I stand in a corner.
I don't wanna be right next to the
makeup artist.
If I was shooting with the 35 or
the 50, I might be too much in
their space, but the 85 1.2, because
my subject is sitting, and she's usually sitting
in good light because makeup artists need good
light, I can shoot at a 1.2
and just blur out all of like the
messiness of the room behind her.
That's what I absolutely love.
I will shoot with the 50 millimeter 1
.2. This is the lens I primarily use
when she's getting dressed.
Again, it's about carefully positioning yourself to crop
out things that are undesirable elements in the
room.
Shooting with the 35 has a tendency of
getting a lot more of the unmade bed,
the shoes on the floor, things of that
nature, so I'm definitely sticking in that 50
to 85 range.
Lastly, the thing that comes with me is
the 100 millimeter macro IS.
I request that the bride has her wedding
rings, her band, her wedding ring, and his
ring there in the room when I arrive.
Because I will know, I'm being strategic about
the lenses that I'm carrying, is that I
wanna shoot the wedding ring at the beginning
of the day and then be done with
that.
So, I wanna move now to what I
use to shoot the ceremony.
The ceremony lenses that I take.
Now, I have mentioned in a previous lesson
that we arrive to the ceremony about 30
minutes in advance.
So, people often ask, well, where is this
bag and when are you carrying this bag?
During prep, when we arrive to the venue,
we unload our bag, I take the lenses
that I need, the 50, the 85, the
35, and the 100.
I put three lenses in my bag and
one in my camera.
JD will then take this bag and his
lenses to the groom suite.
He will leave the bag in a corner
of the room so that it's not in
anybody's way.
Then, when it's time to leave, he gets
this bag and his side bag and we
meet at the ceremony.
When we are at the ceremony, there are
usually some sort of amplification system by way
of a band or a DJ.
We do not wanna leave this bag exposed
in any way, shape, or form, so we
introduce ourselves to whoever is by the amplification
system because they're not gonna leave their amplification
system alone.
That system is more expensive than our camera
gear.
So, we're in good hands if we could
slip our bag underneath the table and that's
usually what happens because they don't have an
exposed table like this.
We usually have a tablecloth over it.
We slip our bag underneath and we're always
within viewing distance of where our bag is
at the time, but we just don't want
it out for people to actually see.
So, the lens that I'm usually shooting a
wide shot for the ceremony is not the
24, it's the 35.
I will use the 50 millimeter 1.2.
That is what I'll flip to at various
points of the ceremony, but the lens I
will use the most will be the 70
to 200.
That is what I shoot when the people
are walking down the aisle to me, unless
we have a really short aisle.
If we have a really short aisle, I
might flip to the 24 to 70, but
that's a decision that I make a day
of once I know how many guests are
going to be there.
JD is at the opposite end of the
aisle shooting with either the 70 to 200
or the 24 to 70 at that time.
Now, the reason why I wanna focus on
the 70 to 200 is I don't want
guests noticing me.
I don't wanna have to be walking in
and out.
Yes, I will.
I will walk down the middle aisle once,
and that's usually for the exchanging of rings,
but then I usually stay behind in the
wings or towards the back.
Now, we're gonna move into portraits.
Portraits are broken up into family portraits, bridal
party portraits, and bride and groom portraits.
Now, a family picture can range anywhere quickly
from 35 people to four people, so I
need to stay on my toes in that
regard.
When it comes to shooting the bride and
groom, I use the same three lenses that
I use on an engagement session.
I call these my three amigos.
This is what I use on the wedding
day for bride and groom.
This is what I use on an engagement
session.
50, 35, 85.
Now, I will shoot most, if possible, bridal
party portraits with a 35.
That's kind of just definitely where I go,
and if I need more width, I simply
walk back.
So instead of a zoom lens, I use
my legs as a result.
Now, the 24 millimeter, I do carry on
me in case the bridal party is just
so big and we're in an area that
I cannot walk back.
So in the back of my mind, because
I know Samantha and Taylor have 12 bridesmaids
and 12 groomsmen, I will absolutely keep the
24 because I don't know what lighting situations
or spatial conditions I will be working with.
The 50 millimeter, I will keep on hand
because I swap out my lenses.
If I want to shoot a family photo
and then I quickly wanna shoot the bride
and her mom, I'm not gonna shoot it
with the 35 because I think, for my
preference, it's a little too wide.
I'll simply swap out my lens and shoot
it with the 50.
Lastly, the 85 millimeter.
I am not using this so much for
portraits during this time, but JD is.
We have kind of, we have creafted, created
and crafted a system that he knows what
I'm gonna do when I'm gonna do it.
So I'm positioning the family, and JD's in
the wings shooting a side angle.
So just in case the bride's like, dad,
he's there waiting for it.
And oftentimes, what happens for my more like,
kind of like, creative clients, what they wanna
use instead of the traditional family portrait of
all of them on their Christmas card, what
they'll use is the side angle of them
just kind of like smiling.
They're looking at camera one, but the angle
is from camera two.
That's the one they prefer.
And actually, that's what editors really like the
most.
They won't post a traditional family portrait, but
they might post it from the side, especially
if everybody's kind of like leaning in and
laughing.
That one really works.
So he's using the 85 tremendously during that
point.
Now we're gonna go into reception.
This is the last part of the day.
Now, I will shoot with prime lenses because
I'm afforded that luxury of shooting wide open
in dark spaces, and it gives me so
much latitude.
I absolutely love it.
Now, you will see through my portfolio, now
for those who are downloading the course, you
are going to see a full gallery from
the Knot Wedding.
What the client gets outside of her prep
photos, the prep photos will be carefully curated
because I know that Samantha will be dressing.
Anything before or after her dressing will be
included in the gallery.
She will have her own separate gallery for
that.
So what you're going to see in the
gallery when you see it after the wedding,
you're going to see a mix.
You're gonna see ambient lit photos.
You will see flash.
You will see video light.
You will see off camera, depending on the
needs.
But because the wedding is during the day,
I may not have to use flash at
all.
So I'm just gonna kind of prepare you
for, well, actually, I'm quite certain.
Who am I kidding?
Like the reception's at one o'clock in
the afternoon.
If I'm using flash, like it's definitely not
my style whatsoever.
But I kind of want to let you
know if you happen to come across another,
I post a wedding day shot list online
through the store, and you can actually view
a gallery, a wedding gallery of mine also,
and it'll walk you through.
So you can see the variation of light
sources that I have.
During this time, I am shooting with the
35 1.4. I usually use this when
they're walking in for the grand entrance, because
I kind of want to set the tone
without it being too wide.
And sometimes with the 50 millimeter, I only
get to walk within one or two steps
before they've walked out of my frame.
The 35 gives me a range of four
to five steps.
The 50 millimeter, I keep this in my
bag in case there are guests who are
like, can you take a photo of us?
I could use the 35, but you know,
if I want a decent photo, I would
definitely defer to the 50.
The 85 millimeter is kept in my bag
because the 85 is what I use exclusively
for speeches.
The 85 1.2 is so amazing at
getting light in really dark situations, and because
my subjects are listening, and they're sitting, and
they're not moving much, once I dial in
that focus, it's really, really, really great.
I can leverage the ambient light so well
that I don't have to keep on firing,
poof, poof, poof, during these really emotional speeches.
So you'll see me also leverage that in
that capacity.
And like I mentioned before, I use the
24 for dancing photos.
That's kind of like my go-to lens.
The minute the dancing starts, all my gear
is put away with the exception of the
24 that's on my camera, and the 50
in case I need it at any other
point in time.
So we're gonna get into the last part
of this, which is just lenses, odds, and
ends.
These are a few things that I've gotten
asked over the years.
People ask if I shoot with two bodies,
and the answer is no.
I shoot with one body, and I swap
out my lenses rather quickly.
I think that for streamlining my workflow, shooting
with one camera has been so helpful for
me.
I do have a spare, and I keep
the spare nearby.
I keep the spare camera on engagement shoot
in my car.
But you'll see how I shoot, you'll see
me how I swap out my lenses rather
quickly on shoots during the pre-shoots.
And people wanna know why I don't shoot
with a strap.
It's a personal preference.
When I first started, everybody in my life,
not in yours, but when I would go
to Disneyland, everybody had a strap on their
camera, but they're nice cameras.
When I would go to a ballpark, everybody
had a strap on their camera.
And then when I started seeing fashion photographers
didn't have a strap on their camera, I
was like, I'm going strapless.
And it was just a personal decision.
People say, well, aren't you worried that you're
gonna drop it?
And I was like, I see photographers with
their straps dangling all the time.
And I'm like, well, aren't you afraid of
dropping it?
I mean, if you have a strap and
you use it, then fine, that's fantastic, but
it's not a necessity.
And I personally feel like I view my
cameras almost like a gun, right?
I wanna be in shooting, I wanna be
shooting ready.
I don't wanna rest around my neck and
then forget, oh, am I at a 2
.8?
I really should be at a 1.2.
I feel like my camera's now appendage.
I know where I am, where I can
dial in at all times, and I want
to be careful of how I'm using it.
Also is to bear in mind when you
do take a rather large set of gear
to get insurance for your gear.
I've heard so many awful stories of photographers
having their gear stolen at a wedding.
It is part and parcel of what we
do.
But get insurance and then hide the bag.
When we get to the reception, the DJ
or the band also has a sound booth.
We make sure that they're hydrated.
JD is so good at being, hey, how's
it going?
Great, awesome, my name's Judy, I'm the photographer.
Can I get you something to drink?
His lead-in is, can I get you
something to drink?
And you're just like, no, or hey, some
water.
JD will go get the water.
He's like, I'm the photographer.
Would you mind if I kept my bag
right here?
They always let us.
And then we know that somebody will be
by it 100% of the time.
We never leave our gear.
If the DJ is by a door, which
they're usually not, but if he happens to
be by a door, then we will put
our stuff underneath the cake table on the
opposite side of the room.
Because what we hear often is that photographers
who leave their stuff by doors, people who
aren't a part of the wedding but pass
by the room, they'll see a bag and
just snatch it because it looks like a
large bag at a wedding.
Having said that, on that happy note, are
there any questions in regards to view?
Yes, we'll pass the mic right back there.
Hi.
Hi.
Do you use ND filters or what type
of filters?
I think I see filters on all of
your lenses up there.
What do you use and why do you
use them and what brands do you use
and everything filter?
People give me a really hard time.
Like I buy a really nice lens and
then I put like a cheap UV filter.
This filter was like 40 bucks.
It's just to protect the lens.
But if you can believe it, I don't
have one on my 35 because I couldn't,
I found like it was, for some reason
I couldn't focus it the way that I
wanted.
And maybe it was just me being me
but I'm like, I'm taking this thing off.
But you'll see that all my other lenses,
with the exception, I don't have it in
the macro either because I felt like I
couldn't get the type of focusing that I
wanted.
Again, probably just me, but I don't bring
this lens out enough for me to feel
like I'm gonna risk dropping it.
I use B and W filters but I
don't have, I'm not gonna fight for how
great they are.
I know they're German made, so I'm sure
they're very efficient.
Other than that, that's it.
Thank you.
You're welcome.
I know that you seem to prefer mostly
shooting available light.
Yes.
And you've obviously dealt with some challenging lighting
situations.
Have you turned to filters to deal with
that ever?
Like a variable density filter?
I have not.
I know, I think that for me, I
have streamlined my process in such a way
that I value simplicity and ease over trying
to navigate what I should be doing and
when.
So if I am in a difficult lighting
situation, say like bright light, which is gonna
be a great segue for a future lesson
because we're gonna talk about how I shoot
in bright light, I do not change any
filters, I do not rely on flash, reflectors,
fill light.
I really just try to find what I
call natural reflectors and show visually how that
really changes the dynamic of the photo.
I was just wondering, I know you don't
use flash a lot, but I know you
have.
In certain lighting circumstances, the ambient lighting can
be, the colors cause like really nasty color
casts.
How do you deal with that and tackle
that?
Because I find in low lighting circumstances, especially
when you bump up the ISO and you
have to work with the color cast, when
you edit them, even the colors end up
all funny and distorted.
Are you talking about a color cast from
uplighting or just color cast from like the
- From the ambient lighting.
If it's like, let's say fluorescent light, or
something like that, that just gives you really
green or orange tones?
I shoot auto white balance 100% of
the day because we have technology that really,
really, really helps us in that regard in
post.
So in Lightroom, all of that is addressed.
I can sit there and like try to
figure out what Kelvin I should be at,
but either way, it's going to be addressed
in post.
And I know that there are gonna be
other people who are a lot more concerned
about color cast and tonality.
I seem to attract a client who really
wants the idea and experience.
And so if the picture is pleasant enough,
now, if there are pink lights uplighting, it
has a tendency to cast pink skin tones
on my subjects.
But the minute that you get the dropper
in Lightroom and you find out what the
white is in that room, every skin seems
to look very close to skin in such
a way that I'm not worried.
Now, there are times where they have a
mix of lights.
There's a green light, and this is like
the most irksome.
The dance floor.
When you have a DJ or a light
company, they're like, this is what all the
clubs are doing.
And you're like, oh God.
And then there are times where I have
to say, if you look pink and the
whole picture is pink, and I have done
my best, that that is what you hired
that company to do.
I'm not gonna sit here and try to
get it down to a science because that
was what the room looked like.
The room was pink in that moment.
Now, 98% of the photos, 99%
of the photos all look like skin tones,
but then there's every so often where there's
dancing photos and you're like, I have done
my best, but this is how the room
looked.
And I've never had a client come back
and be like, why is there a blue
hint to my dress ever?
Cool.
Thank you.
And somebody else got a...
Yeah.
I was just gonna ask, how often do
you get your gear serviced and how often
do you buy new memory cards?
That is fantastic.
I am a Canon Protection Services, CPS member.
I'm very fortunate in that Canon is based.
They have a few facilities.
One of them happened to be in Orange
County.
So I get my gear serviced three to
four times a year.
I take them to clean my sensors because
it is local, but the CPS program is
so amazing in that I needed to get
my 50 kind of calibrated.
Like this little thing is dialed in all
the time.
I love it.
But about a month ago, I started noticing
something.
It's not talking to me the way that
it does.
And yes, white lenses talk to me.
I was like, it's not talking to me
this way.
So JD took it in and because I'm
a platinum member for CPS, anybody can pay
to be a platinum member.
There's silver, gold and platinum.
They gave JD a 50 millimeter before he
walked out and we were able to shoot
a destination wedding.
The reason why I pay extra for it
is I never want there to be a
blip in any of my services in regards
to our gear.
So they get sensors cleaned about four times
a year.
Service only as needed.
And what was the last question?
The other question was just about your memory
cards.
Like how often do you buy new ones
and like dispose of them?
I buy new memory cards about every year
and a half.
I used to shoot.
Now because these file sizes are getting so
large.
Now Canon released the 5DS recently and I've
seen a couple of photographers on social media
like get sneak peeks and I'm just like,
oh, that's amazing.
I hear it's more of a studio camera,
as opposed to what we do, which is
a lot of outdoor stuff.
So I don't feel too tempted, but I
used to shoot with four gig cards, right?
This is during like the 20D days.
And then I kind of stayed with four
because I was so worried about losing, you
know, how this is gonna affect things.
And then I upgraded to eight gig.
And now I'm shooting with 16 gig.
And part of the reason why I'm shooting
with 16 gigs is because the Canon 5D
Mark III has a CF card slot and
an SD.
So I'm shooting with an SD.
So worst case scenario, worst case.
And on the SD card, I'm shooting large
JPEG.
It's just a backup, just a backup.
So a majority of my images, and I've
never had a problem where I had to
use the SD card, but a worst case
scenario, let's say a card gets corrupted.
At least I have the large JPEG files
so that I can turn something over.
And then if the client wanted to get
it printed at a 24 by 36, we
would have the conversation then.
I wouldn't be like, I lost some pictures
and now they're no longer at a 16
by 24, 300 DPI.
They're actually like, no, let's see what you
wanna do with the images.
Let's kind of go through it.
But at least I know I will deliver
on my services front to end, front to
back.
Thank you.
We're gonna pass the mic back there.
So I know you mentioned you have the
off camera at 116th power.
Yes.
For the on camera during the reception, are
you TTL or manual?
And what's your go-to?
I am TTL.
I mean, I rock auto white balance and
TTL and I own it.
You know, I know that there are some
great, amazing flash photographers who will teach you
all the tips and tricks, but I have
found ways to, I know it's not a
technical term, but I heard like foof.
Like I foof my light quite often, which
is basically, this is not technical.
I'm gonna get questions about this.
I turn my camera, I turn my flash
back and I tilt it.
These walls wouldn't work, but that white wall
would.
But let's just say this wall is white.
If my off camera flash is here, or
it could be anywhere, but I'll just say
here, these people are gonna be side lit,
right?
And side lit or front lit, depending on
where I'm gonna shoot it.
Right now, let's see.
Okay, it's gonna light her here.
Now if I wanted to light somebody back
here, I would just turn my flash, tilt
it back towards this white wall, and now
I have a big white reflector.
We find ourselves doing this quite a bit.
And in reception areas that have white pillars,
and it's a tough lighting situation, I park
it, I park it by a pillar for
a while.
And I turn my flash back towards the
white pillar, use this light, and those pictures
end up being some of the ones that
are strongest from the set.
Cool, yeah.
Great, so I think that this is a
great, did you have a question?
Okay, you were just scratching?
Okay, good.
No, I wanna make sure.
This is a good place to end it
right about now.
If you guys have questions, I'd be more
than willing to ask them later, but I
always know that if you're anything like me,
the tech is important, and it's valuable, but
it's probably not our favorite thing.
And I know this rubs a lot of
specifically male photographers the wrong way.
There are, oh, I have seen dirty threads.
She doesn't know what she's talking about.
She doesn't know this.
And I was like, I am so busy
traveling, I can't even have time, I don't
have time to read what you're doing.
I know, mean, mean.
But on the real, the gear matters, but
the person holding the gear matters more.
Thank you guys so much, I appreciate it.
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