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This segment is all about understanding your camera
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and how to determine a correct exposure.
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Now, what is the best way to actually
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understand any tool?
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Well, that is read the manual.
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If I was to ask you at home
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watching right now, have you read your camera
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manual from cover to cover?
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You would probably say no.
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Please do yourself a favor and read the
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camera manual.
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It could be one thing that you learn
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that's a little bit different.
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One little nuance that can be the difference
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between a good picture and a great picture.
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And I'm telling you, it makes it a
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lot more fun.
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I can't tell you the last couple of
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decades that I've been teaching.
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I'll be teaching with someone, a student with
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a similar camera system, and I'll just rattle
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off under my breath a particular technique that
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uses these combination of buttons and they'll look
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at me like I'm an alien.
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And I'm like, well, you've read your camera
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manual, right?
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And they'll look at me sort of blankly
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with a wry smile.
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It is no different than when you're playing,
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let's say a video game.
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Give an example, like a Mortal Kombat.
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You may have heard of it.
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It's a PlayStation game and all those kinds
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of things.
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You might select your favorite player and then
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you're fighting in a little bit of a
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battle and a combination of buttons can give
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you like countless number of moves.
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Now, most people who are novices like myself
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will go in there and maybe just tap
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a few buttons and just have some fun.
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And you wanna get into the game really
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quickly.
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You don't wanna do the research.
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Then all of a sudden, that particular favorite
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player of yours can only go so far.
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And then you realize that you can't beat
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a more experienced player because they know all
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the moves.
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So what you wanna do is read those
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particular moves, what that player is capable of,
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and now you can have a lot more
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fun.
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No different than in photography.
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We wanna be able to understand what the
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camera is capable of.
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No different than a calculator to an accountant.
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Now, when we talk about exposure and we're
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talking about a camera system, of course, we'll
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do this in practice very shortly.
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Right now, I just wanna give you a
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little bit of theory to sort of give
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us a bit of a foundation to work
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from.
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So when we give you our practical demonstrations,
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excuse me, when we give you our practical
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demonstrations in the field, then you'll have something
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to reference to.
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So let's talk about it now.
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Is exposure and the way the camera works
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anything new?
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What came before it?
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Well, the human eye is so complex and
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is so incredible that we have to understand
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that it all stemmed from this.
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So let me explain.
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If you're looking at the pupil of the
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eye, the iris of the eye, let's call
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it the aperture of the eye.
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Basically, we're allowing light to come into our
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eyes so we can recognize the environment around
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us.
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So the aperture of the eye, the iris
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is allowing light to come in.
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You'll often hear about your pupils being dilated.
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That's basically meaning the aperture of the eye
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is wide open.
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We're allowing all that light to flood in.
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Like you may have an operation with your
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eyes, for example, and you'll get your pupils
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dilated deliberately and they're really wide open, allowing
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that light to flood in.
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And then you walk outside and it's all
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sunny and you can't see.
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Well, that's like photographing, for example, at an
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F-stop at 1.2 or 1.4,
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where the aperture is really, really wide open.
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Now let's talk about shutter speed.
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Well, that's like your eyelid.
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That's like, basically, how long you keep your
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eyes closed or not.
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For example, if you blink quickly, that is
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like a fast shutter speed.
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You're allowing light to travel in quickly.
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And if you keep your eyes open, well,
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that's basically like putting it on a fraction
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of a second, like maybe a half a
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second or one second.
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Or even, for example, sometimes you're photographing landscapes
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and you wanna shoot at F22 with a
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deep depth of field.
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We'll discuss more of that shortly.
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But that basically means that we're maybe shooting
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at one second or five seconds or 10
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seconds.
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That's like leaving your eyelid open for quite
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a while.
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Now, what about ISO?
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Well, ISO, I liken in the human eye
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to, let's say, the aging process.
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So for example, myself, as of this video
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tutorial that I've been filming, it's 2020.
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I'm 46 years of age as of this
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moment.
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Now, as I'm getting older, of course, I
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see less detail.
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Things are less sharp.
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Well, that's exactly the same with ISO.
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So for example, as you age, you see
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less detail, less dynamic range, and all those
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different things.
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And that is pretty much what ISO is.
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The younger you are, the cleaner everything looks,
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the less sandy, the less noisy, the less
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grainy, and all those types of things.
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So once we understand the combination of ISO,
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shutter speed, and aperture, then we truly begin
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to understand what exposure is all about.
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But this just quick little visual reference is
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that, just to let you know, the human
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eye can do all that the camera does,
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and even more.
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And whether you believe in God, creation, evolution,
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whatever it basically is, doesn't really matter.
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The human eye gives us that perfect foundation
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to discuss what exposure is all about.
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Now, you've probably heard of the exposure triangle.
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What does that mean?
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Well, let's go through it properly now.
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The exposure triangle, okay.
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So we've got three things that determine exposure.
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Basically, we have the ISO, that is the
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image sensor's sensitivity to light.
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We have shutter speed, that's the exposure time.
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So we said ISO was like the aging
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process, like the quality that we're getting.
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Shutter speed is the exposure time, how long
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we're actually keeping our eyes open, so to
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speak.
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And the aperture controls the amount of light
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on the sensor and how much is in
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focus.
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And we call that depth of field.
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So let's focus on ISO, for example.
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Now, of course, there's lots more ISOs that
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we can use in the current camera systems.
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But for the moment, let's start from 100
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ISO, 200, 400, 800, all the way up
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to 12,800 and beyond.
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When we get to this level, okay, we
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need less light.
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In other words, we will be shooting in
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dark situations.
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We need less light.
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There's less detail though, unfortunately.
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There's less sharpness, less dynamic range.
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And of course, we get more noise and
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grain.
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So ideally, you don't really wanna be up
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in this sort of level when you're photographing,
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but sometimes you simply need to because you
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may be in the crypt of a church,
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you can't shoot with flush.
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We're shooting with candlelight and we're gonna have
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to use these ISOs.
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Let's go down to this end of the
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scale.
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When you're thinking about 100 ISO, we need
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more light.
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When we say we need more light, like
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it's if we have more light, then we
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can shoot with 100 ISO.
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More detail, we have more sharpness, more dynamic
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range, and of course, less noise or grain.
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So you'll often read textbooks about ISO when
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we talk about 100 ISO being something like
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maybe in the sun, 400 ISO maybe being
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in the shade, maybe indoors being at 1600.
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And then as it gets darker and we
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have less ambient light filtering through the windows
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of a house, so if we're only using
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ambient light in terms of man-made tungsten
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light or fluorescent light or whatever we're doing
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inside or candlelight, then that's when we have
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to go up to this end of the
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scale.
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Now, let's talk about shutter speed.
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Shutter speed is basically how long that particular
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eye is open or the camera's eye, the
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aperture, and how much light we let in
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and the exposure time.
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So we look at exposures from anywhere from
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one second to multiple seconds to what we
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call bulb, where we get to manually choose
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how long that particular shutter speed is open.
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We've got half a second, quarter of a
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second, eight, 15th, 30th, 60th, 125, 250, 500,
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and beyond.
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And of course, most camera systems will go
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up to 8,000.
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So we often talk about a safe handheld
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shutter speed.
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For most people in most environments with most
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lenses, you would say that 125th is like
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a safe handheld shutter speed.
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So some camera systems have image stabilizer, which
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allows you to shoot with a low shutter
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speed.
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So that's great.
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Now, and some cameras don't.
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Now, some people generally shake as we get
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older.
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We find it harder to handhold.
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So it really depends on who you are
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and if you have the hands of a
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surgeon or arguably if you shake or not.
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So just, you gotta know your limits and
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try to fit between them there.
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Now, if you want a safe shutter speed,
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generally speaking, if your focal length of your
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lens, let's say, for example, a 50mm lens,
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some people would say, well, make sure your
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shutter speed exceeds your focal length.
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So if you have a 50mm lens, then
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you can go to 60 shutter speed.
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Some people will actually say, go double that,
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double that.
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So for example, a 50mm lens, you might
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wanna go to 100 speed or 125.
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I'll let you be the judge and you've
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got to work it out for yourself.
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So as we go up to the fast
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shutter speed, of course, we need more light.
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It'll freeze faster moving our subjects and objects.
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So depending on the genre of photography that
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you're photographing, you will have to learn what
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will be within a range.
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For example, a bride and groom walking down
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the aisle, you might wanna be about 250
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or even possibly up to four to 500,
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depending on how fast they walk.
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If you're photographing, let's say a tennis player,
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let's say just yielding a tennis racket and
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forehand, backhand, all that kind of stuff, you
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might be up to 2,000.
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And of course, if you go to motor
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racing, you might be in the 8,000
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range.
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So you just gotta work out what you
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want.
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And of course, if you're photographing, let's say
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a waterfall and you wanna make it look
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all misty and beautiful and all that dreamy
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-like sort of moving water, you might be
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around about the quarter, half a second or
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a second and beyond.
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So again, depending on the genre that you're
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actually photographing, it really depends on what you
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wanna do there.
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Okay, now, aperture probably, arguably you would say
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is the most important because the shutter speed
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within a certain range and ISO within a
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certain range is you don't really identify it
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as much in your camera, unless you're at
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the longer exposures and the fast exposures.
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And if you're going extreme ISO, whatever, but
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the aperture really is where the magic happens.
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This controls the amount of light, as we
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said, on the sensor and how much in
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focus.
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And as we said before, we call it
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depth of field.
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As we open up, as in as the
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pupil, so to speak, is dilated to 1
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.4 or even beyond, like there's lenses now
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that have 0.95 and so on, there's
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less in focus.
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And of course, we need less light to
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achieve this.
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And then of course, you go to the
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F22 range, we need more in focus and
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we need more light to achieve that.
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So when you look at this entire exposure
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triangle, once you determine what a good exposure
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is, according to the subject matter that you're
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photographing, if you change one thing, you have
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to change something else.
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And if you don't know what I'm speaking
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about right now, we'll actually discuss that in
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our practical demonstration.
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All right, guys, so there's the theory.
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The theory there is that we have three
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things that affect exposure.
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And of course, we have different camera modes
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and metering modes and things like that, which
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we'll discuss in the field on location.
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But I wanted to give you a bit
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of a foundation, a bit of a theory
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to look at.
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And now we need to work out that
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how do we determine the correct exposure?
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What modes do we use?
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What are the implications of changing white balances?
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And what are the implications of changing all
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these different things and how do they harmonize
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together?
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So let's do this right now, follow along
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with me and don't forget, you've got to
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practice.
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Repetition, experience and practice, all of these things
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will be your best teacher.
23264
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