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00:00:04,580 --> 00:00:07,231
Our planet is a place
of constant change.
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00:00:08,540 --> 00:00:12,294
Each year, the seasons shift
and life is transformed.
3
00:00:14,450 --> 00:00:18,131
But there are places where
the changes are so epic in scale,
4
00:00:18,131 --> 00:00:20,611
they can be seen from space.
5
00:00:22,620 --> 00:00:26,772
In this series, we reveal three of
the most miraculous transformations.
6
00:00:30,001 --> 00:00:32,090
The islands of Svalbard.
7
00:00:32,090 --> 00:00:35,651
Within a few weeks,
frozen wastelands burst into life.
8
00:00:38,210 --> 00:00:40,410
The African Okavango.
9
00:00:40,410 --> 00:00:43,891
A desert transforms into
a magical water world.
10
00:00:46,490 --> 00:00:48,840
And the mysterious forests
of New England
11
00:00:48,840 --> 00:00:51,775
erupting in a blaze of
seasonal colour.
12
00:00:55,480 --> 00:00:59,928
Life finds the most ingenious
and surprising ways to thrive...
13
00:01:01,570 --> 00:01:04,778
..in the world's most
fast-changing landscapes.
14
00:01:24,930 --> 00:01:26,693
The Kalahari basin.
15
00:01:30,280 --> 00:01:35,081
2.5 million square kilometres
of flat sand and scrub.
16
00:01:37,440 --> 00:01:40,011
This desert stretches across
southern Africa.
17
00:01:41,860 --> 00:01:44,410
But at its heart lies a river.
18
00:01:44,410 --> 00:01:47,340
A river that never reaches the sea.
19
00:01:47,340 --> 00:01:50,650
And once a year, it floods.
20
00:01:54,050 --> 00:01:59,460
Over five months, waters spread
across a vast area of the Kalahari,
21
00:01:59,460 --> 00:02:03,112
transforming it into a wonderland.
22
00:02:09,056 --> 00:02:11,820
The Okavango Delta.
23
00:02:22,117 --> 00:02:25,146
This is the story
of how nature creates a unique,
24
00:02:25,146 --> 00:02:29,367
flourishing wetland
out of one of earth's great deserts.
25
00:03:01,346 --> 00:03:03,826
Our story begins
in the heart of the Delta.
26
00:03:06,496 --> 00:03:08,506
The dry season is well advanced
27
00:03:08,506 --> 00:03:11,418
and water is becoming scarcer
by the day.
28
00:03:14,806 --> 00:03:17,752
At this time of year,
predators rule.
29
00:03:33,426 --> 00:03:36,056
Animals have another
six months to wait
30
00:03:36,056 --> 00:03:40,527
before the flood turns this land
back into a lush wetland.
31
00:03:48,376 --> 00:03:50,526
Sable antelope.
32
00:03:50,526 --> 00:03:55,020
After grazing on dry grass, they
have to drink at a stagnant pool.
33
00:03:58,976 --> 00:04:00,807
But they're nervous.
34
00:04:04,296 --> 00:04:06,787
Predators watch their every move.
35
00:04:17,506 --> 00:04:20,706
For a leopard, though,
a sable's size
36
00:04:20,706 --> 00:04:24,745
and lethal scimitar horns
pose too much of a risk.
37
00:04:28,226 --> 00:04:30,376
There are plenty of easier targets.
38
00:04:41,976 --> 00:04:44,147
A family of warthogs.
39
00:04:44,147 --> 00:04:46,306
GRUNTING
40
00:04:46,306 --> 00:04:48,936
Where once there was a wide river,
41
00:04:48,936 --> 00:04:52,099
they use their tough snouts
to truffle for bulbs.
42
00:04:55,586 --> 00:04:58,976
But it's hard work
in this dry, sun-baked ground.
43
00:05:01,946 --> 00:05:05,438
And having your snout in the sand
is decidedly risky.
44
00:05:24,356 --> 00:05:25,766
GRUNTING
45
00:05:28,646 --> 00:05:30,306
SQUEAL!
46
00:05:30,306 --> 00:05:32,672
FRANTIC SQUEALING
47
00:05:39,776 --> 00:05:41,676
SQUEALING
48
00:05:49,226 --> 00:05:51,776
The leopard drags its kill
to a hiding place,
49
00:05:51,776 --> 00:05:53,664
where it can dine in peace.
50
00:06:00,656 --> 00:06:02,965
The warthog will keep it going
for a week.
51
00:06:06,496 --> 00:06:10,159
The dry season means good hunting
for top predators.
52
00:06:12,946 --> 00:06:15,562
For everyone else, food is scarce.
53
00:06:19,306 --> 00:06:22,275
Chacma baboons survive
through their knowledge...
54
00:06:24,496 --> 00:06:26,296
..and eclectic taste.
55
00:06:26,296 --> 00:06:28,046
BUZZING
56
00:06:28,046 --> 00:06:32,137
Elephant dung is a valuable source
of seeds and insects.
57
00:06:32,137 --> 00:06:34,890
CHATTERING
58
00:06:47,086 --> 00:06:50,046
But it looks like
there's an appealing alternative.
59
00:06:50,046 --> 00:06:53,017
A tree that fruits
even in the dry season.
60
00:06:53,017 --> 00:06:54,666
A fan palm.
61
00:07:08,256 --> 00:07:11,384
The fruit is nutritious,
if a bit tough and pithy.
62
00:07:17,866 --> 00:07:19,970
But what's this?
63
00:07:23,096 --> 00:07:26,496
Elephants will eat
virtually any vegetation.
64
00:07:26,496 --> 00:07:28,606
And fruit is their favourite.
65
00:07:28,606 --> 00:07:31,222
They can smell it from
several kilometres away.
66
00:07:45,576 --> 00:07:48,576
For the baboons, the feast is over.
67
00:07:48,576 --> 00:07:50,498
TRUMPETING
68
00:07:55,536 --> 00:07:58,936
The fruit may be 20 metres up
and out of reach,
69
00:07:58,936 --> 00:08:01,154
but the elephant's strategy
is simple.
70
00:08:02,216 --> 00:08:04,514
Brute force.
71
00:09:05,256 --> 00:09:10,034
For a crafty baboon, though,
it sometimes pays to hang around.
72
00:09:14,626 --> 00:09:17,026
It's spotted one
that the elephants missed.
73
00:09:28,386 --> 00:09:32,902
Nearby, at a shrinking pool,
something agitates the water.
74
00:09:39,536 --> 00:09:41,106
Mouths gulp at the surface.
75
00:09:43,806 --> 00:09:47,947
It's crowded with giant catfish
up to a metre-and-a-half long.
76
00:09:50,616 --> 00:09:54,747
There's no oxygen left in the water
for their gills to use.
77
00:09:54,747 --> 00:09:58,604
But these fish also have
lung-like organs that breathe air.
78
00:10:05,216 --> 00:10:09,960
Every day, under the Kalahari sun,
more water evaporates.
79
00:10:13,086 --> 00:10:16,465
African fish eagles
gather expectantly for a banquet.
80
00:10:35,826 --> 00:10:39,836
In desperation, some catfish
attempt to make a run for it,
81
00:10:39,836 --> 00:10:41,804
using their fins to propel them.
82
00:10:45,036 --> 00:10:48,949
Now exposed, they are easy targets
for eagles and jackals.
83
00:10:51,916 --> 00:10:54,237
SQUAWKI NG
84
00:11:17,126 --> 00:11:19,299
These catfish have run out of time.
85
00:11:22,806 --> 00:11:25,980
Within two weeks,
the pool has vanished.
86
00:11:44,236 --> 00:11:48,406
When it floods, there will be
plenty of water for everyone.
87
00:11:48,406 --> 00:11:51,476
But now,
at the end of the dry season,
88
00:11:51,476 --> 00:11:54,331
elephants must keep walking
in search of water.
89
00:11:57,826 --> 00:11:59,623
LOW ROAR
90
00:12:05,046 --> 00:12:08,046
Her calf needs
15 litres of milk a day,
91
00:12:08,046 --> 00:12:11,834
so she must find over 100 litres
of water for both of them.
92
00:12:15,336 --> 00:12:18,681
But elephants have a special
technique to get at fresh water.
93
00:12:21,777 --> 00:12:23,995
No other animal has such power.
94
00:12:30,176 --> 00:12:33,486
Using their tusks,
they pile-drive into the flood plain
95
00:12:33,486 --> 00:12:36,316
until they reach water
beneath the surface.
96
00:12:36,316 --> 00:12:38,546
TRUMPETING
97
00:12:54,106 --> 00:12:57,382
In doing so, elephants create
a lifeline for others.
98
00:12:59,686 --> 00:13:01,961
A hyena and jackal wait their turn.
99
00:13:04,986 --> 00:13:07,682
Elephants with calves
are not to be messed with.
100
00:13:09,466 --> 00:13:11,115
So they dive in when they can.
101
00:13:18,306 --> 00:13:21,446
But this jackal may have pushed
its luck a little too far.
102
00:13:27,826 --> 00:13:30,226
CHATTERI NG
103
00:13:41,846 --> 00:13:43,757
BI RDSONG
104
00:13:50,366 --> 00:13:54,200
For insect-eating birds,
food is increasingly hard to find.
105
00:14:00,206 --> 00:14:03,486
This mound makes
a good lookout post.
106
00:14:03,486 --> 00:14:05,556
But if only it knew what's inside.
107
00:14:12,506 --> 00:14:16,909
It's a fortress
for Macrotermes termites.
108
00:14:18,056 --> 00:14:19,830
A colony a million strong.
109
00:14:22,286 --> 00:14:27,037
A termite's mound is just the hub
of an underground city.
110
00:14:27,037 --> 00:14:29,767
Six kilometres of foraging tunnels.
111
00:14:31,486 --> 00:14:35,206
Here, the Macrotermes process
dead vegetation into food.
112
00:14:37,376 --> 00:14:39,627
The mound is perfectly engineered
113
00:14:39,627 --> 00:14:43,086
to keep air at constant temperature
and humidity.
114
00:14:43,086 --> 00:14:45,407
Protecting the termites
from drying out.
115
00:14:48,836 --> 00:14:51,376
But these mounds will also
prove essential
116
00:14:51,376 --> 00:14:55,051
for the survival of many other
species when the floods come.
117
00:15:05,836 --> 00:15:09,736
By the end of October,
dryness and increasing temperatures
118
00:15:09,736 --> 00:15:14,246
turn the once-lush Okavango Delta
into a tinderbox.
119
00:15:14,246 --> 00:15:16,168
FLAMES ROAR
120
00:15:26,757 --> 00:15:29,567
But these birds seem to be
attracted to the flames.
121
00:15:38,566 --> 00:15:42,406
For the lilac-breasted roller
and the fork-tailed drongo,
122
00:15:42,406 --> 00:15:44,726
it's a great opportunity.
123
00:15:44,726 --> 00:15:47,934
Because the fire flushes out
a bounty of insects.
124
00:16:13,456 --> 00:16:15,926
Up to a quarter
of the Okavango flood plain
125
00:16:15,926 --> 00:16:17,564
can burn in a single year.
126
00:16:20,356 --> 00:16:23,096
For most of the plants and animals
that live here,
127
00:16:23,096 --> 00:16:26,566
the end of the dry season
can't come soon enough.
128
00:16:41,576 --> 00:16:43,166
THUNDERCLAP
129
00:16:43,166 --> 00:16:45,006
RAIN PELTS
130
00:16:45,006 --> 00:16:49,326
November brings a little respite
to the parched land.
131
00:16:49,326 --> 00:16:51,276
THUNDERCLAP
132
00:16:51,276 --> 00:16:53,995
Warm, humid air moves in
from the tropics.
133
00:16:56,647 --> 00:16:59,047
Rain in the Kalahari.
134
00:17:05,777 --> 00:17:08,416
Just enough to green the delta.
135
00:17:19,757 --> 00:17:21,076
BIRDSONG
136
00:17:27,926 --> 00:17:29,609
CHATTERING
137
00:17:33,486 --> 00:17:36,057
The baboon troop
has grown in number.
138
00:17:41,566 --> 00:17:42,976
SQUEALING
139
00:17:58,637 --> 00:18:02,539
These youngsters were born just in
time to enjoy what the rains bring.
140
00:18:05,456 --> 00:18:08,286
More trees have come into fruit.
141
00:18:08,286 --> 00:18:10,345
It makes for a delicious breakfast.
142
00:18:15,436 --> 00:18:18,286
But there's a downside
to such a wonderful scent.
143
00:18:18,286 --> 00:18:20,265
TRUMPETING
144
00:18:24,657 --> 00:18:28,216
Sure enough,
elephants aren't far away.
145
00:18:28,216 --> 00:18:29,865
TRUMPETING
146
00:18:33,616 --> 00:18:35,823
GENTLE ROARING
147
00:18:45,696 --> 00:18:48,136
The troop scatters.
148
00:18:48,136 --> 00:18:49,808
SQUEALING
149
00:19:00,846 --> 00:19:02,734
Maybe it's time to move on.
150
00:19:06,897 --> 00:19:09,846
Mothers carry their newborns
safely underneath,
151
00:19:09,846 --> 00:19:12,144
where they can keep suckling.
152
00:19:14,486 --> 00:19:16,989
But the older ones
must learn to ride on top.
153
00:19:19,616 --> 00:19:21,846
CHATTERI NG
154
00:19:23,806 --> 00:19:27,697
On these open plains,
the troop must stick together.
155
00:19:30,206 --> 00:19:32,720
Some have already lost limbs
to leopards.
156
00:19:38,286 --> 00:19:41,585
All these animals
will soon face a new world.
157
00:19:48,657 --> 00:19:53,296
The Kalahari rains may have provided
some temporary relief,
158
00:19:53,296 --> 00:19:56,720
but a much greater change
is on its way.
159
00:19:59,286 --> 00:20:02,006
In distant mountains
beyond the Kalahari,
160
00:20:02,006 --> 00:20:06,340
the tropical air now brings
much heavier downpours.
161
00:20:25,336 --> 00:20:27,446
Rain, from highlands to the north,
162
00:20:27,446 --> 00:20:30,626
cascades ultimately into one river.
163
00:20:30,626 --> 00:20:32,856
The Okavango River.
164
00:20:34,296 --> 00:20:36,576
It creates a pulse of high water
165
00:20:36,576 --> 00:20:40,517
which takes two months to snake over
a thousand kilometres
166
00:20:40,517 --> 00:20:42,792
to the top of the Okavango delta.
167
00:21:00,006 --> 00:21:02,016
It will still be another month
168
00:21:02,016 --> 00:21:04,996
before the floodwaters reach
the heart of the delta.
169
00:21:06,936 --> 00:21:08,576
Here, the river always flows
170
00:21:08,576 --> 00:21:12,535
and is home to several
thousand people, such as Sinabe.
171
00:21:14,016 --> 00:21:17,176
His people are descendants
of both Kalahari nomads
172
00:21:17,176 --> 00:21:19,349
and fishermen from central Africa.
173
00:21:25,576 --> 00:21:29,580
As the river rises, water spills
on to the surrounding land.
174
00:21:31,016 --> 00:21:34,429
Creating shallows
ideal for spear-fishing.
175
00:21:47,366 --> 00:21:51,366
The rising pulse of water
continues onwards.
176
00:21:51,366 --> 00:21:53,982
South,
towards the dry heart of the delta.
177
00:21:56,637 --> 00:22:01,119
But to understand what happens next,
we have to go back in time.
178
00:22:04,156 --> 00:22:08,286
Two million years ago, great cracks
ripped through the desert floor.
179
00:22:12,606 --> 00:22:16,372
The land warped to create the shape
of the Delta we know today.
180
00:22:22,236 --> 00:22:25,647
The faults define the start
and finish lines for the flood
181
00:22:25,647 --> 00:22:27,535
which is to come to the main delta.
182
00:22:41,726 --> 00:22:46,736
The dry plains in the heart of
the Delta will soon be transformed.
183
00:22:46,736 --> 00:22:48,692
GRUNTING
184
00:22:52,876 --> 00:22:56,175
Life here is about to be turned
upside down.
185
00:22:59,286 --> 00:23:01,208
GRUNTING
186
00:23:07,966 --> 00:23:10,056
SQUEALING
187
00:23:10,056 --> 00:23:12,686
But for this family of warthogs,
188
00:23:12,686 --> 00:23:15,575
there's still a bit of time
to get some truffling in.
189
00:23:20,836 --> 00:23:23,647
The last rains softened the ground.
190
00:23:23,647 --> 00:23:26,696
And now, getting at those tubers
is much easier.
191
00:23:29,846 --> 00:23:33,304
For the cunning baboons,
it's an unmissable opportunity.
192
00:23:35,657 --> 00:23:39,457
They muscle in to enjoy the fruits
of the warthogs' hard work.
193
00:23:43,647 --> 00:23:45,686
GRUNTING
194
00:23:45,686 --> 00:23:47,665
SQUAWKING
195
00:23:50,006 --> 00:23:51,777
The baboons may have no manners,
196
00:23:51,777 --> 00:23:54,689
but the warthogs
don't really seem to mind.
197
00:23:56,517 --> 00:23:59,884
Perhaps it's because the baboons
provide extra security.
198
00:24:04,086 --> 00:24:07,237
But this is one food source
that will soon disappear.
199
00:24:18,086 --> 00:24:23,566
Hidden in the reeds,
it starts as the tiniest trickle.
200
00:24:23,566 --> 00:24:27,957
The beginning of one of Africa's
greatest floods.
201
00:24:58,806 --> 00:25:02,216
As rising water spills into
the main delta,
202
00:25:02,216 --> 00:25:06,505
it slows and spreads
into countless, tiny rivulets.
203
00:25:10,246 --> 00:25:12,089
RHYTHMIC DRUMBEAT
204
00:25:28,586 --> 00:25:31,336
Travelling at barely
a kilometre a day,
205
00:25:31,336 --> 00:25:34,510
the flood will take another
four months to cover the delta.
206
00:25:40,066 --> 00:25:43,066
But straightaway,
wherever water touches the land,
207
00:25:43,066 --> 00:25:44,886
it makes a remarkable impact.
208
00:25:51,446 --> 00:25:54,256
Common sand frogs
spend most of the year
209
00:25:54,256 --> 00:25:56,258
buried half a metre underground.
210
00:26:01,496 --> 00:26:06,217
But now, water floods their burrows
and forces them to the surface.
211
00:26:07,886 --> 00:26:10,218
They inflate to scare off
any predators.
212
00:26:13,846 --> 00:26:15,666
He's off to find a female.
213
00:26:23,806 --> 00:26:26,376
For tiny creatures
whose homes are in the way,
214
00:26:26,376 --> 00:26:29,516
the trickle is more like a tsunami.
215
00:26:31,966 --> 00:26:34,503
Ants are forced to evacuate
their nest.
216
00:26:39,856 --> 00:26:42,507
An easy snack
for blacksmith lapwings.
217
00:26:50,936 --> 00:26:53,678
Termites now face the flooding
of their colony.
218
00:26:58,216 --> 00:27:00,816
They beat a hasty retreat
to the safety of their mound
219
00:27:00,816 --> 00:27:04,047
as their tunnels start to flood
and collapse.
220
00:27:07,896 --> 00:27:11,886
But in doing so,
something miraculous happens.
221
00:27:11,886 --> 00:27:14,025
The tunnels seal themselves up.
222
00:27:17,456 --> 00:27:20,016
This blocks
the flood's underground advance
223
00:27:20,016 --> 00:27:22,746
and forces the water
back to the surface.
224
00:27:29,816 --> 00:27:32,592
Back inside the mound,
the termites are safe.
225
00:27:37,376 --> 00:27:41,460
Incredibly, the flood provides
just the opportunity they need.
226
00:27:44,736 --> 00:27:47,096
Their fragile castle, made of sand,
227
00:27:47,096 --> 00:27:49,860
requires constant maintenance
and rebuilding.
228
00:27:51,296 --> 00:27:53,976
But the soil,
now softened by floodwater,
229
00:27:53,976 --> 00:27:57,412
is easy to transport
to damaged parts of the mound.
230
00:28:04,146 --> 00:28:08,776
Gradually, thousands of termites
reconstruct their fortress.
231
00:28:13,456 --> 00:28:16,607
Repairing these mounds
isn't just good for the termites.
232
00:28:18,586 --> 00:28:21,376
These structures help to create
something vital
233
00:28:21,376 --> 00:28:23,389
for all the delta's wildlife.
234
00:28:25,016 --> 00:28:27,314
Its islands.
235
00:28:30,456 --> 00:28:33,675
And it all starts like this.
236
00:28:42,766 --> 00:28:44,657
Dung.
237
00:28:44,657 --> 00:28:48,058
Readymade fertiliser
laden with fruits and seeds.
238
00:28:51,176 --> 00:28:54,456
Floodwater soaks up
the dry side slopes of the mound
239
00:28:54,456 --> 00:28:57,266
to create the perfect
bedding for new plants.
240
00:29:12,046 --> 00:29:14,486
Gradually, season-by-season,
241
00:29:14,486 --> 00:29:17,819
termite mounds become home
to more and more plants.
242
00:29:29,466 --> 00:29:32,386
As they grow,
they attract more animals,
243
00:29:32,386 --> 00:29:37,096
which in turn bring with them
the seeds to grow even more plants.
244
00:29:37,096 --> 00:29:41,537
Sycamore fig, fan palm, marula.
245
00:29:41,537 --> 00:29:44,606
Until the termite mounds
are barely recognisable
246
00:29:44,606 --> 00:29:46,494
under their lush green canopies.
247
00:29:56,456 --> 00:30:01,029
As it floods, raised areas around
termite mounds become islands.
248
00:30:04,906 --> 00:30:08,306
They provide food, shelter
and a refuge throughout the year
249
00:30:08,306 --> 00:30:11,867
for everything from elephants
to baboons and birds.
250
00:30:16,736 --> 00:30:19,846
In the delta,
once featureless desert,
251
00:30:19,846 --> 00:30:24,954
there are now around
150,000 such islands.
252
00:30:34,417 --> 00:30:36,816
For a lot of thirsty animals,
253
00:30:36,816 --> 00:30:40,024
the floods simply mean
sweet drinking water.
254
00:30:43,766 --> 00:30:46,098
Elephants no longer need
to dig holes.
255
00:30:48,176 --> 00:30:50,616
TRUMPETING
256
00:30:50,616 --> 00:30:52,755
CHATTERING
257
00:30:59,746 --> 00:31:01,475
GRUNTING
258
00:31:04,956 --> 00:31:08,756
Baboons, too, seem to delight
in the precious liquid.
259
00:31:14,776 --> 00:31:19,667
Curious youngsters, encountering
the flood for the very first time,
260
00:31:19,667 --> 00:31:22,500
don't seem to know
quite what to make of it.
261
00:31:55,826 --> 00:31:57,946
The sand may look barren,
262
00:31:57,946 --> 00:32:02,178
but wherever the water touches it,
something magical happens.
263
00:32:04,136 --> 00:32:08,256
Within a couple of days,
billions of freshwater plankton
264
00:32:08,256 --> 00:32:10,668
begin to awake and hatch.
265
00:32:16,576 --> 00:32:20,786
Such tiny creatures
are the delta's secret ingredients.
266
00:32:20,786 --> 00:32:23,198
The foundation of its food chain.
267
00:32:26,496 --> 00:32:28,776
Meanwhile, in a deeper channel,
268
00:32:28,776 --> 00:32:30,676
a mountain of foam has appeared.
269
00:32:33,667 --> 00:32:37,026
It has been created
by a pair of African pike.
270
00:32:37,026 --> 00:32:38,826
Notoriously aggressive,
271
00:32:38,826 --> 00:32:41,784
but caring parents
that watch over their offspring.
272
00:32:49,056 --> 00:32:51,346
Hidden safely underneath the foam,
273
00:32:51,346 --> 00:32:54,110
hundreds of fish eggs
are beginning to hatch.
274
00:32:56,786 --> 00:33:00,472
The fry remain attached to the foam
until they are well developed.
275
00:33:01,936 --> 00:33:04,916
And now, the delta offers plenty
for them to eat.
276
00:33:08,106 --> 00:33:13,576
The tiny pike fry join small,
hungry fish of 70 different species,
277
00:33:13,576 --> 00:33:15,386
swimming though the shallows
278
00:33:15,386 --> 00:33:18,389
in a nutritious soup
of freshwater plankton.
279
00:33:33,136 --> 00:33:35,557
BIRDSONG
280
00:33:35,557 --> 00:33:39,152
Before long,
the skies fill with birds.
281
00:33:42,036 --> 00:33:45,028
One of Africa's greatest
wildlife spectacles.
282
00:33:48,146 --> 00:33:50,751
Travelling nomads from far and wide.
283
00:33:52,826 --> 00:33:55,176
The reason they're here?
284
00:33:55,176 --> 00:33:59,306
Wherever water covers the land,
it fills up with little fish.
285
00:34:02,826 --> 00:34:06,501
Each of the birds has its own
special technique for catching them.
286
00:34:10,396 --> 00:34:12,660
A saddle-billed stork
jabs at its prey.
287
00:34:18,856 --> 00:34:21,576
African spoonbills
have the perfect equipment
288
00:34:21,576 --> 00:34:23,783
for filtering out
the finest morsels.
289
00:34:39,656 --> 00:34:44,216
Black egrets use their wings
to form canopies over the water.
290
00:34:44,216 --> 00:34:47,913
The shade lures nervous fish
desperate for cover.
291
00:35:00,419 --> 00:35:02,558
Others attack directly from above.
292
00:35:05,378 --> 00:35:07,653
A pied kingfisher.
293
00:35:12,419 --> 00:35:14,058
At 25 centimetres long,
294
00:35:14,058 --> 00:35:16,379
it's the world's
largest hovering bird.
295
00:35:29,268 --> 00:35:31,578
Hovering demands a lot of energy,
296
00:35:31,578 --> 00:35:35,571
so they have to catch a quarter
of their weight in fish every day.
297
00:35:40,268 --> 00:35:42,778
Keeping its head perfectly still,
298
00:35:42,778 --> 00:35:46,475
about ten metres above the water,
it sees movement.
299
00:35:50,128 --> 00:35:52,460
Then drops in a controlled dive.
300
00:35:54,768 --> 00:35:58,938
If the fish sees it, the kingfisher
can still abort and save energy.
301
00:35:58,938 --> 00:36:01,702
If not, it commits
and dives rapidly.
302
00:36:05,268 --> 00:36:07,299
It's worth the effort.
303
00:36:07,299 --> 00:36:09,938
Hovering allows them to hunt
in the middle of the plains,
304
00:36:09,938 --> 00:36:12,145
where the pickings
are especially rich.
305
00:36:25,549 --> 00:36:28,063
The bird kills its prey
with a blow to the head.
306
00:36:31,188 --> 00:36:35,238
But before it can swallow,
it must flip the fish, head first,
307
00:36:35,238 --> 00:36:37,638
or the spines will stick
in its throat.
308
00:37:17,638 --> 00:37:20,539
Within a few months,
another type of organism
309
00:37:20,539 --> 00:37:24,066
vital to the delta
breaks the surface.
310
00:37:25,268 --> 00:37:27,828
Dozens of species
of aquatic grasses,
311
00:37:27,828 --> 00:37:29,830
sedges and water lilies.
312
00:37:50,348 --> 00:37:53,198
At dawn, day lilies open
313
00:37:53,198 --> 00:37:55,814
to attract pollinating bees
and flies.
314
00:38:24,938 --> 00:38:28,988
As dusk approaches,
the day lilies begin to close,
315
00:38:28,988 --> 00:38:30,944
and give way to the night shift.
316
00:38:36,148 --> 00:38:39,072
Night lilies open
their brilliant petals...
317
00:38:40,378 --> 00:38:43,381
..bright enough to attract insects
in the moonlight.
318
00:38:46,138 --> 00:38:50,359
Water lilies, flourishing in the
middle of the Kalahari desert.
319
00:38:56,588 --> 00:38:58,988
Perhaps the greatest
miracle of the delta.
320
00:39:03,918 --> 00:39:07,126
And only possible
thanks to one thing.
321
00:39:09,758 --> 00:39:13,788
Nature has found a unique way
to keep the water of the Delta
322
00:39:13,788 --> 00:39:15,710
pure, very low in toxic salts.
323
00:39:19,968 --> 00:39:23,768
Its secret lies with those
extraordinary islands.
324
00:39:34,678 --> 00:39:37,638
Trees on the islands act as pumps,
325
00:39:37,638 --> 00:39:40,289
sucking in water
from the surrounding swamp.
326
00:39:42,438 --> 00:39:44,608
As they do so,
327
00:39:44,608 --> 00:39:49,238
salts in the water are deposited
in the sand of the islands.
328
00:39:52,559 --> 00:39:55,278
By extracting salt from the water,
329
00:39:55,278 --> 00:39:57,488
it's as though the islands
are kidneys,
330
00:39:57,488 --> 00:39:59,649
removing waste from the bloodstream.
331
00:40:04,948 --> 00:40:09,658
This way, the islands keep
the Delta's waters fresh
332
00:40:09,658 --> 00:40:12,104
and able to nurture abundant life.
333
00:40:35,988 --> 00:40:40,299
As the morning sun heats the ground,
rising vapours everywhere
334
00:40:40,299 --> 00:40:43,382
reveal that water has spread
right across this plain.
335
00:40:45,268 --> 00:40:50,023
It's a transformation that turns the
tables between predator and prey.
336
00:40:53,988 --> 00:40:58,140
Red lechwe appear in large numbers,
looking for their favourite food...
337
00:40:59,948 --> 00:41:01,597
..tender aquatic plants.
338
00:41:10,578 --> 00:41:13,741
But a hyena hopes to take
advantage of their distraction.
339
00:41:22,309 --> 00:41:25,426
It just needs to get
a little closer.
340
00:41:31,748 --> 00:41:33,306
Time to run for it.
341
00:41:43,388 --> 00:41:45,358
Lechwe have large splayed hooves
342
00:41:45,358 --> 00:41:49,158
that allow them to bound at speed
through shallow water,
343
00:41:49,158 --> 00:41:51,752
giving them
a big advantage over any predator.
344
00:42:08,888 --> 00:42:11,068
It's an adaptation that helps
to protect them
345
00:42:11,068 --> 00:42:12,740
during the time of flood.
346
00:42:23,309 --> 00:42:26,598
Soon the aquatic vegetation
sprouts everywhere
347
00:42:26,598 --> 00:42:28,828
and the water becomes impassable.
348
00:42:34,828 --> 00:42:37,035
But crisscrossing
the flooded plains,
349
00:42:38,028 --> 00:42:40,360
highways through the reeds appear.
350
00:42:44,348 --> 00:42:48,432
And here's their creator -
a hippopotamus.
351
00:42:51,238 --> 00:42:56,588
He's a grazer and thinks nothing
of bulldozing a way through.
352
00:42:56,588 --> 00:42:59,603
As he does so,
he excavates a channel.
353
00:43:17,468 --> 00:43:20,517
And it's not only hippos that
have to find a way through.
354
00:43:28,238 --> 00:43:29,948
In the far north of the Delta,
355
00:43:29,948 --> 00:43:33,315
Sinabe rows through dense
beds of reeds.
356
00:43:37,008 --> 00:43:41,240
To get through, he seeks
the help of the spirit of the river.
357
00:44:11,128 --> 00:44:15,309
Deep in the reeds,
he discovers a hippo channel.
358
00:44:15,309 --> 00:44:19,655
It's a highway for fish,
so the perfect place to rig a net.
359
00:45:04,858 --> 00:45:07,907
Sinabe's village is
on the edge of the flood plain.
360
00:45:11,248 --> 00:45:14,338
His family know that
as long as the Delta provides,
361
00:45:14,338 --> 00:45:16,192
they will never go short of food.
362
00:45:19,158 --> 00:45:21,309
He smokes the bream
to preserve it
363
00:45:21,309 --> 00:45:24,187
for days when the catch
isn't quite as good.
364
00:45:26,538 --> 00:45:31,328
Meanwhile, his family weave baskets
out of grass from the flood plains.
365
00:45:31,328 --> 00:45:34,855
Later in the year,
they will be used for catching fish.
366
00:45:59,532 --> 00:46:02,012
By July, in the heart of the Delta,
367
00:46:02,012 --> 00:46:05,322
the once-dry savanna has become
a lush water-world.
368
00:46:08,972 --> 00:46:14,183
But this transformation has
an odd effect on the baboons.
369
00:46:17,532 --> 00:46:19,762
SQUEALING
370
00:46:27,862 --> 00:46:30,899
Each has developed
its own funny walk.
371
00:46:33,252 --> 00:46:36,904
SCREECHING AND GRUNTING
372
00:46:41,822 --> 00:46:45,383
SCREECHING
373
00:46:54,942 --> 00:46:59,106
All that is, except for the baby -
who just gets a soaking.
374
00:47:13,682 --> 00:47:15,297
SCREECHING
375
00:47:16,522 --> 00:47:20,772
It seems likely that baboons don't
much enjoy being in the water -
376
00:47:20,772 --> 00:47:23,047
or they may be nervous of
something in it.
377
00:47:26,362 --> 00:47:28,330
Crocodiles are everywhere.
378
00:47:32,972 --> 00:47:37,212
For the troop,
a flooded Delta is a lawless place,
379
00:47:37,212 --> 00:47:40,409
but a threat worse even than
a crocodile has appeared.
380
00:47:46,802 --> 00:47:48,884
Lone male baboons.
381
00:47:52,572 --> 00:47:54,942
The shrinking of territory on land
382
00:47:54,942 --> 00:47:57,888
forces the loners into contact
with troops.
383
00:48:00,212 --> 00:48:03,010
They may fight the troop's
alpha male for control.
384
00:48:04,942 --> 00:48:08,293
If the stranger wins,
he may also kill the young
385
00:48:08,293 --> 00:48:10,102
and mate with the females.
386
00:48:12,022 --> 00:48:16,231
An incumbent alpha male must keep
a close eye on any rival.
387
00:48:18,472 --> 00:48:20,872
HE BARKS
388
00:48:22,222 --> 00:48:27,569
To survive, it is crucial that
he lay down his authority.
389
00:48:29,102 --> 00:48:34,222
BARKING AND GRUNTING
390
00:48:39,012 --> 00:48:43,176
GRUNTING
391
00:48:44,802 --> 00:48:47,862
ROARING
392
00:48:47,862 --> 00:48:51,012
SCREECHING
393
00:48:51,012 --> 00:48:53,458
ROARING AND BARKING
394
00:48:54,652 --> 00:48:58,224
SCREECHING AND ROARING
395
00:49:00,053 --> 00:49:02,499
BARKING
396
00:49:09,872 --> 00:49:13,740
GRUNTING AND SQUEALING
397
00:49:21,173 --> 00:49:23,698
SCREECHING AND SQUEALING
398
00:49:26,132 --> 00:49:27,588
GRUNTING
399
00:49:28,732 --> 00:49:31,405
Insurgents must be sent packing.
400
00:49:50,133 --> 00:49:53,591
As the Delta floods, everywhere,
tension seems to be mounting.
401
00:49:56,933 --> 00:49:59,133
Not least in the hippo community,
402
00:49:59,133 --> 00:50:02,614
where their watery territories
are expanding dramatically.
403
00:50:06,843 --> 00:50:09,391
Here, too, there is
a young challenger.
404
00:50:14,533 --> 00:50:17,263
The territory's resident bull
snorts a warning.
405
00:50:19,314 --> 00:50:22,670
HE SNORTS
406
00:50:25,613 --> 00:50:28,613
The adversaries declare
their ownership of the pool
407
00:50:28,613 --> 00:50:32,413
by vigorously spreading dung
with their tails.
408
00:50:37,333 --> 00:50:42,184
SNORTING
409
00:50:42,184 --> 00:50:45,054
They yawn to display
their weaponry -
410
00:50:45,054 --> 00:50:47,136
huge ivory tusks.
411
00:50:50,463 --> 00:50:53,580
SNORTING
412
00:50:57,583 --> 00:51:00,211
First, a test of strength.
413
00:51:04,213 --> 00:51:06,733
SNORTING
414
00:51:06,733 --> 00:51:09,304
The old bull makes
a temporary retreat.
415
00:51:12,174 --> 00:51:14,813
Females have a vested
interest in the outcome.
416
00:51:16,893 --> 00:51:18,943
They will only be prepared
to accept a mate
417
00:51:18,943 --> 00:51:20,581
that can hold his own in a fight.
418
00:51:29,693 --> 00:51:32,742
The resident bull
retaliates brutally.
419
00:51:34,563 --> 00:51:38,624
SNORTI NG
420
00:51:44,103 --> 00:51:47,184
SNORTI NG
421
00:51:47,184 --> 00:51:51,132
Hippos will often fight for hours
and sometimes to the death.
422
00:52:08,983 --> 00:52:13,033
Finally, a brutal headlock -
the coup de grace that settles
423
00:52:13,033 --> 00:52:15,263
it for the older male -
424
00:52:15,263 --> 00:52:17,788
expelling the pretender
from his territory.
425
00:52:29,213 --> 00:52:31,853
Which means the resident bull
passes the test
426
00:52:31,853 --> 00:52:35,184
to sire this year's
crop of baby hippos.
427
00:52:35,184 --> 00:52:42,113
GRUNTING
428
00:52:48,934 --> 00:52:51,903
The young male has been
injured during the retreat,
429
00:52:51,903 --> 00:52:55,213
his flank exposed
to his furious pursuer.
430
00:52:58,914 --> 00:53:04,293
At least nature has arranged for him
to be nursed - by these oxpeckers.
431
00:53:04,293 --> 00:53:07,069
They eat anything that might
cause an infection.
432
00:53:08,603 --> 00:53:11,213
The pain is probably worth it
433
00:53:11,213 --> 00:53:13,784
and he should survive
to fight another day.
434
00:53:24,573 --> 00:53:27,413
By August, the floodwaters
finally reach
435
00:53:27,413 --> 00:53:30,473
the Delta's southern fault line,
its maximum extent.
436
00:53:38,503 --> 00:53:43,668
The Okavango is now one of the
largest inland deltas in the world.
437
00:53:46,263 --> 00:53:50,573
The whole Delta is linked by water -
shallow flood plains, pools,
438
00:53:50,573 --> 00:53:54,168
and deeper channels all fed
by the Okavango River.
439
00:54:07,603 --> 00:54:11,403
Billions of fish that fill
the plains have grown rapidly.
440
00:54:20,953 --> 00:54:25,373
And Sinabe's wives and daughters are
ready for them with their baskets.
441
00:54:25,373 --> 00:54:32,267
SINGING IN AFRICAN LANGUAGE
442
00:54:41,103 --> 00:54:47,838
SINGING CONTINUES
443
00:54:52,983 --> 00:54:55,653
SINGING STOPS
444
00:54:55,653 --> 00:54:58,395
Bulldog fish will make a fine stew.
445
00:55:04,143 --> 00:55:07,823
In the main river,
something strange is happening.
446
00:55:07,823 --> 00:55:10,553
The waters appear to be boiling.
447
00:55:17,603 --> 00:55:20,993
It's catfish,
taking gulps of air at the surface.
448
00:55:25,623 --> 00:55:28,137
And they are here
in their millions.
449
00:55:31,443 --> 00:55:35,123
Before the flood recedes, they
return from their hunting grounds
450
00:55:35,123 --> 00:55:39,753
in the far reaches of the Delta to
the safety of the deep channels.
451
00:55:43,883 --> 00:55:47,307
Amongst the papyrus,
they hunt smaller fish.
452
00:56:05,793 --> 00:56:08,739
Flocks of egrets arrive
to join in the feast.
453
00:56:30,383 --> 00:56:32,066
No-one is safe in the mayhem.
454
00:56:42,194 --> 00:56:45,789
African fish eagles swarm
and dive-bomb the catfish.
455
00:56:50,243 --> 00:56:53,743
Millions of fish that grew fat
out in the flood plains
456
00:56:53,743 --> 00:56:57,281
bring life back to the river
that brought them water.
457
00:57:13,813 --> 00:57:15,533
When it's needed most,
458
00:57:15,533 --> 00:57:21,174
the flood creates a vast oasis
in the desert - a wonderland.
459
00:57:21,174 --> 00:57:25,353
Its 10,000 square kilometres
of crystal waters
460
00:57:25,353 --> 00:57:29,426
attracting animals from all over
the dry Kalahari desert.
461
00:57:41,103 --> 00:57:43,571
HE ROARS
462
00:57:47,273 --> 00:57:49,707
HE ROARS
463
00:57:57,184 --> 00:58:00,303
But these waters will never
reach the sea.
464
00:58:00,303 --> 00:58:05,463
They will soon begin to evaporate or
simply sink into the Kalahari sand,
465
00:58:05,463 --> 00:58:10,389
as the Okavango Delta
gradually returns to dry savanna.
37625
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