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What I miss most is good chocolate.

Do you? And I miss beef broth.

- Beef broth? - Yes, really.

When I get home, I'll make myself some broth.

I just want some chocolate.

Ah, I miss a lot of things.

- Sausages… - Really? Do you miss Vienna too?

I hate the food here. I miss Vienna too.

- So you do miss Vienna? Homesick? - Yes, yes.

Yes, I'm homesick.

I'll be honest with you.

Until a few years ago,

I thought the same thing about Rajasthan as Timbuktu and Djibouti.

Just some place very far away.

Before we took the plane to Delhi, we gave a goodbye gig for a few friends.

You never know.

By playing "Court of Christ", Andi would have said,

"If only I could hear Harri play one more solo".

Let's have tea here.

Yeah, I'm thirsty too.

- But what if I get the shits again? - Oh, stop that.

Let's order and then we'll see.

Hello, hello.

Is it safe to drink this tea?

I hope so.

Look, there's a dog!

- What are you doing? - A little practising.

- In this heat? - Yeah.

- You know I practice all the time. - Yeah.

- Jazz in the desert. - Yeah, desert jazz!

Desert jazz, that's a new name for your music: Desert Jazz.

Yeah, seriously.

- Come on, I'll accompany you. - You play in E minor, I'll play…

Let's say, in G minor.

- That doesn't work. - Sure it does.

E minor… G minor…

Just mess around a bit.

- Mess around? - Yes, do something and I'll join in.

- Drink your tea. - Let's try something.

Just do that thing again.

- Fine. You just start and I'll… - I'll play G.

- Okay. - G…

Sure I knew that we Romani come from India.

But I didn't know anything about Rajasthan.

Now the older I get, the more I wonder. Where does it all come from?

Why do I play this kind of music,

and not something totally different?

I know I got it from my father. But where did he get it?

And what about my great-grandfather?

Someone left these flowers for the lady on the third floor.

And I have to deliver them. I am the janitor here, after all.

Anyway, I don't want to go by myself.

You know, I don't like being alone. I get kind of scared.

That's why I told Mosa, "Listen, Mosa.

If you haven't got anything better to do, come to India with me".

And when does he ever have anything better to do?

Have you ever come across a sitar?

Not really. But I…

Well, I guess I've heard it on a record or something…

- It was kind of out of tune. - But they usually play in C sharp.

- In C sharp? - Yeah.

Well, that's okay. I'll tune my violin to C.

C sharp is a difficult key for violin, right?

Yeah, but it'll work.

- I hope we can find the musicians. - Well, we already found them.

I saw Azeem and Hafeez on TV in a documentary about Indian music.

I really like what they did.

And they are big stars over there in India.

So I thought when we're in Delhi, we should visit them first.

You know, to warm up before we go on to Rajasthan.

And besides,

I've only seen a city once from a distance.

Azeem and Hafeez suggested we meet at a recording studio right away.

Look!

- Peppers… - Look at the potatoes.

I'll buy some peppers.

It's covered in shit!

- And I touched it. - You're such an idiot!

You shouldn't touch it.

But I'll take some hot and sweet peppers home.

D flat is very complicated for violin.

- Yeah, yeah. - It's because of the fingering.

- I think… It's the fingering. - I know, I know.

Because when they play, they use many…

But the problem with the sitar is that…

- Yeah? - We have so many string in it.

- Yeah. - And we have to tune…

for everyone in the same skill.

So it's gonna be a very difficult first to tune every string.

- And every time. - It's impossible.

What I would like to try now is to play with you some European gypsy…

music rhythm.

One, two, three, four!

Come on!

Hey!

Yeah!

- Respect. - Great!

That was a great start.

Other people would have used this session for a record.

Indian train stations are as chaotic as the start of a big clearance sale.

I know why I have my wife do the shopping for me.

The professor isn't a real professor. That's just what they call him.

But when you look at the people they call professor here in Austria,

Kanayashi is more professor than all of them put together.

He's a Brahmin Priest and knows everything about the music of Rajasthan.

Without him, we'll be totally lost here.

We probably couldn't even find the next crapper.

Shamshu plays this thing called sarangi.

Basically, it's the Indian violin. But listen to this.

A sarangi has three melody strings and 35 resonance strings.

You know me. I'm never in a hurry.

But if I had to tune this thing every day, I'd freak out.

Yeah.

- Yeah! - After?

There'll be, umm… Solo. Raga.

And maybe you play for one minute, and after that--

- You'll play, you do it. - Okay.

Well, how should I put it?

Shamshu played something. I played something.

But more side by side. We didn't really come together.

The crowds here!

Look at how they drive! It's crazy!

Was this crazy?

In Europe, it's more disciplined in traffic.

- They drive left, they drive right. - Yeah.

- You can buy your shoes here. - Oh, yeah, shoes!

You want sole? Any soles?

Harri, buy some, too.

You just try…

I'll try the red one.

- I've got no money but I like them. - Four euros.

- Tell him I want the same ones. - But then we'll get them mixed up!

Have you noticed? There are no discos or bars here.

You know, where you could meet someone …

No ladies strolling around. No one to chat up.

- But Mosa, we're here for the music. - Yeah, but…

- We're here to find our roots. - Yeah, well…

To meet our Gypsy brothers and sisters.

- But still, a man has needs… - I'll tell your wife!

Yeah!

The Kalbelias living out there in the desert

are proud musicians and dancers.

They perform at weddings and celebrations to earn a little money.

And when there aren't any weddings or parties,

they have to catch cobras.

Just think, cobras. I'll tell you something.

I'll never mourn about not having gigs again.

Finally, a bus stopped.

Thank God.

Thank God.

- Okay. - Okay.

- Harri, what's this? Oh, man! - A bus ride too!

I'll try to get some cigarettes.

Ciggy? Ciggy?

Thanks.

Here you can smoke on the bus. Back home they'd give us a huge fine.

I like it! You can smoke on the bus. You're free to do whatever you like!

The professor's not with us today.

- I hope we find the house. - I think it's there. On the right.

- Or maybe on the left. We'll see. - I'm not quite sure.

Mosa, where is it?

- Left or right? - Let's go this way.

I don't know where it is.

What do you think?

Maybe him?

I was ready for almost anything in India.

But there's no way you can be ready for something like Kutle.

If you don't see what this guy does with your own eyes,

you won't believe it.

The khartal, the instrument he plays, is just two wood clappers,

and he makes magic with them.

- Wow! - That was great!

- Oh. - This is khartal.

- Let me try. - Try.

I just…

No way, I can't do it.

- No, no. - No?

I'm very impressed. He's a virtuoso!

And it's pretty hard work keeping up!

- I think we managed to keep up with Kutle. - I was just saying we were having trouble!

- That's true. - We play instruments you can see.

And he's got those things…

- He was too fast for me at the end. - Yeah, amazing. My hand hurts.

Hey!

Hey, hey, hey.

Look who's here!

Welcome to Vienna.

Ever since I met Kutle,

I knew that I wanted to perform with the Indians in Vienna.

So I invited Kutle and his brother Gafur

and Azeem and Hafeez too to come to Vienna.

They brought Adi with them.

That was a surprise, but definitely no mistake.

This is a folk instrument from India called the dotara.

- And you play this? - Yeah.

Like a banjo.

It sounds like a banjo.

- Indian Banjo. - Banjo.

From Bengal. Originally from Bengal.

Oh, man, it's C sharp!

- It's D. - D? Are you sure?

That's good. Yeah. Super.

- But later it'll be in C sharp again. - Oh, no! Please, no!

We started rehearsing for the concert right away.

No one had any idea how it would turn out.

So this is Milos, a good friend of mine and a great musician.

And I invited him to play with us. He plays the accordion.

And now, we should try to figure out some… something.

I mean, we've been trying to get a rhythm going.

In D…

Okay.

Yeah, great.

- There is something. - Very good.

It's great that he tuned up his sitar, because D flat is very…

It's very hard for the violin. Thank you.

- Fortissimo. - No…

And then I… You got it?

You play softly… piano… And then I…

And I play fortissimo. Got it?

- Got it? - No problem.

One, two, three, four!

So what do we have to expect here?

Yeah, here, the camel people, they are also gypsy.

- Also gypsies? - Yeah.

They are selling that camel. Nice camel here.

- They're selling the camel? - Yeah.

- The kids here… - My grandpa was a horse seller.

When you think what Indian gypsies do,

they're camel traders, blacksmiths or fortune-tellers.

My folks were horse traders, goldsmiths, and fortune-tellers too.

And they're all musicians.

Even more than 10,000 kilometres

and 800-something years couldn't change anything about that.

Now we go to the Kalbelias.

Which are living very close to here.

When I see myself dance like this,

I'm glad you don't play guitar with your feet.

I guess we just as exotic to the Indians as they are to us.

But I think they realised we're not just two New Age Westerners

in some self-discovery retreat.

In Hamira, we could have performed right away.

And the best thing is that we didn't have to talk much to connect.

Well, Mosa can't really talk to them anyway.

Music speaks all languages.

Yeah.

Music speaks English, French, Arabic…

World! Music… world.

- One music. - Yeah.

- Deep music from heart. - Music, music.

Yeah!

India!

India!

Yeah, that's great!

While I was playing today,

I could feel that my music has a really strong connection

to Romani and Gypsy music.

Because I was born in Serbia and came to Austria later on.

The music I felt inside, the rhythm, everything…

It developed in Vienna, but now I'm here and I hear this music…

The improvisations they play! I'm delighted with myself.

And I'm happy I could hear this and play with these musicians.

Now I know for sure that I'm a Romani.

So, my dear friends, this is where…

- Wow! - My hometown.

- It's a pleasure to be here, Harri. - Thank you. I was born over there.

- Wow, and where do you live? - Now I live over there.

And Harri, this is the song actually he wrote for his wife.

- That's great. - You know, because…

He's missing his wife so… The name of the song is "I Miss You".

- And so we will play for you. - We'll sing for you.

Mosa, I keep asking myself why we're doing all this.

Well, we wanted…

- to learn something. - Still got a bellyache?

I did this morning.

If I get the runs again, I'll hide behind those shrubs.

- Well… - Do you have your toilet paper?

No, I don't.

And now I'm worried that while I'm taking a crap,

a cobra will come along and bite my ass!

Imagine a cobra biting your ass!

- What was that? - Crazy horns there!

- They're driving on the wrong side! - They drive on the left.

- We're heading that way! - Then let's move to the other side.

That's a good idea.

They drive differently here.

This is crazy! Well then, we'll hitchhike this way.

Wrong again! We're heading that way.

- Okay, then we should do it this way. - Exactly.

Wow! Look at this!

What's he transporting? Bed sheets?

Crazy!

In this small village in the middle of nowhere,

a few hours from Jaisalmer, we found a music school for kids.

Ghazi Khan founded it.

He plays the Khartal just like Kutle.

And he's such a great musician.

He made lots of money and opened a school for youngsters.

Mosa and I thought,

let's go have a look at it. Maybe we'll learn something.

Yeah, this is very good.

One, two, three, four!

A Jew's Harp was the last thing I expected to see in Rajasthan.

The chief.

One, two, three, four!

- I got it. Yeah. - Okay?

So what's that instrument? I never saw anything like that before.

This instrument is from gypsy community.

And then this instrument is bhapang.

- Bhapang? - Yeah.

This is…

You play like this.

Yeah. And… How strong?

- This is only… - The sounds get higher.

Everything is here.

- Like this is controller. - Mm-hm.

So we do like this.

Nah, that's it.

It's great.

- This is what we call… - Very mystic.

- Bhapang instrument. - Bhapang.

- This is a very old street. - Yeah, it is an old street.

How old is it?

- A thousand years? - This area?

This area is about… 200 years.

- Two hundred years? - Yeah.

It's not that old.

Yeah, it is, 200 years.

But the rest of the part of the settlement

is 855 years old.

- Did you get that? - Yeah, bits and pieces.

- You're starting to learn the language. - Yeah.

He's a blacksmith and also…

He's a musician.

- He's also a musician? - Yeah.

The blacksmith was like something from a parallel universe.

What he played was like nothing I heard up to now.

We tried to play with him anyway. It was something different.

Harri knows more about playing diminished chords.

But I just played a D, and Harri said it sounds fine,

because it's a diminished C sharp scale.

No, he played A flat with a diminished fifth.

And I played a D. It was perfect.

The language of the music…

is always the same and it is from the heart, you know.

It is not from the tongue, you know. You speak.

- It is not like that. - It's from the soul.

- Yeah, from the soul. - Yeah.

- It comes from the soul. - Comes from the soul.

You see here, you can buy cheap clothes.

Clothes?

- And stockings. - Stocking.

Who needs stockings for his lady?

- Stockings for your lady? - Good luck in getting some.

- I see robes. - Let's have a look.

The fool needs socks.

Yeah, it looks great.

- Perfect. - Suits him, right?

- Yes. - I didn't expect you to speak Viennese!

Really? I'm a local. These are my friends from India.

- Hmm? Good? - Very nice. Wow.

- Harri. - No. No, Jesus.

Most probably here, you can play four beats.

You are playing in four beats. Jazz music.

That gypsy… One, two, three, four! One, two, three, four!

It's like that.

But in India, there's so many kinds of different rhythms.

Different kinds of music.

Different kinds of patterns.

Like one, two, three, four!

One-two! Three-four! One-two! Three-four! One-two! Three-four! One-two! Three-four!

One-two! It's like that.

It's not the same, one, two, three, four. One, two, three, four.

I like gypsy.

Guess what I just saw.

- What? - A Johnny in the desert.

Are we almost there?

- Where? - Wherever we're heading.

- I've no idea where we're heading! - So what are we doing here?

I don't feel well. I'm tired.

- You're tired? - I'm very tired.

- Then sleep while you walk! - Okay, I'll give it a try.

- Tell me some bedtime stories. - Tell you a story?

Mosa, I think we're going in circles.

I don't know. Everything looks the same here.

It's crazy.

Terrible.

Well, I don't remember. I really don't.

- Do you remember? - Don't worry, we'll find the way.

Yeah, sooner or later.

Circular breathing. You know,

when you breathe in and blow out at the same time,

I only knew about it with the didgeridoo.

I gave it a try but I almost choked.

Maximum. You can play 30 minutes.

- Thirty minutes? - Yeah.

- That's all? - Yeah.

Yes!

Yeah, Gypsy music and this fits very well.

The professor invited the fire dancers to Jaisalmer just for us.

He said we have to see them. But honestly, just watching them hurt.

Oh!

Look what he's doing! He's eating fire!

Now he's getting himself another one.

Then I thought it's my turn to show my Indian friends

what Vienna has to offer music-wise.

And basically, there's only one person they have to hear.

This is mister…

Professor Karl Hodina, the grand master of Vienna's music.

Wow. Fantastic.

- It's a pleasure, sir. It's a pleasure. - Old man.

Yeah!

Let's be singers.

Let's go to the pedestrian area and sing.

- Come on, we're here. - We're here.

Let's go busking.

I didn't expect we'd get rich by playing

on an Indian street for an hour.

But they didn't throw a single rupee in our hat.

Oh, hey! Hey! Hey!

Oh, yeah!

Do you have another colour? Colour! Not black.

Colour! Colour!

That's black. Colour. Colour!

- He doesn't understand. - No.

- Mosa, I can't tell our shoes apart! - But I can.

What? Which are mine?

- Seriously now, which are mine? - Wait a minute.

These are yours.

How much money?

How much?

How much money?

- Forty rupees. - Forty rupees.

Five!

- We have no money. - Give him ten and shut up!

- They're laughing at us. - Give him the ten euros.

Ten euros!

Thank you, thank you. Thank you, thank you.

- Thank you. Very good. - Thank you.

- Very nice. - Good. Okay?

That was super!

The session with Khaji was the best one of the whole trip.

It doesn't happen too often that you can sit down with someone

you don't really know,

and everything's perfect.

Thanks.

Harri, tell him.

Today, I played some sounds and did some fingering on the violin.

A whole new world.

I went deeper and deeper into a musical world.

Tell him that a door opened up for me into a whole new musical world.

- I can't remember all that. - Tell him.

He said he enjoyed playing with you very much.

This is a very interesting street.

Yeah.

- Don't you think so? - Sure.

Interesting street.

Interesting street.

Professor, did you know where I can buy some chocolate?

- Chocolate. Yeah. - Chocolate.

Because since I'm… I am very addicted to chocolate, you know.

Yeah, very addicted.

And since I'm in India, I had no chocolate.

- So I need my chocolate. - Yeah.

No, I don't want that.

Here, take your pick.

You will test it, you know.

Oh, definitely.

Mmm.

Try it. It's good.

I'll get the runs again.

- Sugar. - I'll get the runs. Pooping.

- Yeah. - Yeah.

Thank you.

Mosa brought in the guys from Romania.

He heard them playing there somewhere.

And we thought they'd be perfect for our old gypsy super crew, a big band.

And I'm really… It's a great honour to have you here.

Welcome to Vienna.

These kids really fired up our rehearsals.

But the group's big enough now.

Otherwise we'd have to play in a stadium. We couldn't fit anywhere else.

We are… in Rajasthan.

There is a song called "Leta jaijo".

- Okay. - Which means "Take my love as you go".

So it's a nice song. Lively song.

And it's a gypsy song so I think everything can fit in.

Even maybe Roma…

rhythm.

Umm… everything come together.

- Let's see what happens. - Yes.

Just play the song.

How did you learn this?

From you.

You watch Indians and you just learn?

- You know what that means? - No.

I started to fall in love.

Oh, very nice.

It's like he discovered his Indian roots.

Before even meeting any Indian or going to India.

He already has the roots. You know, the gypsy roots is like…

He feels it, the way he's singing it, the way he's pronouncing it.

He's definitely feeling it, you know. You can tell, it's amazing.

- Let's do it again. - One, two, three, four!

This is the famous Prater.

- Prater? - Yeah, the biggest…

- Amusement park? - Amusement park in Vienna.

You said you're afraid of heights. So you never go on that one.

Never in my fucking life.

This one.

This is for me.

One plate? One plate?

The best chicken!

The best, yeah.

So this is Jelena Krstic…

For me, the greatest Roma singer of all.

And what I would like to do is…

we give you all, the song, the Roma hymn Gelem Gelem, in D minor…

And in the bridge, you should sing with Jelena.

Yeah, she will show you. Yeah.

Can you… Can you sing…

Second voice.

One more time.

We've just finished this wonderful concert with Harri Stojka

and the collaboration has been amazing.

And when I was talking to Kutle and some of the other boys,

it felt like we discovered a bit of our roots.

And you know, what I find so amazing is that

some of the Romanian young boys were singing in our language.

Lyrics which were completely understandable by us.

But they've never been to India.

And then we learned the Romanian gypsy songs

and I don't think it's about

one person trying to find his roots in India.

Or us coming here and finding our roots in the Romanian gypsy culture.

But I think most important is about the gypsy spirit.

Which is a wandering spirit, which is a transient spirit.

And which is… Which will always live on

as long as we make wonderful, beautiful music.

Am I a different person now after the trip?

No, not really.

I'm not a different person, but definitely more complete.

People spend their whole lives putting together a puzzle of themselves.

And mine's a little more complete now. What more could I ask for?

I'm glad I went to India.

- E minor, G minor. - Desert jazz.

- Desert jazz. - E minor, G minor.

- Let's hit the road. - Yes, let's go.

- Let's go. - I'll just pack away my guitar.

- I'll definitely come back some time. - I wish you a pleasant journey.

Count me out.

To be honest, I don't want to go through this shit again.

- Well, you had some problems. - I'm… No.

- You ate too much. That was the problem. - Well…

- Come on, let's move it. - Yes, let's go.

But this time we'll hitchhike in the right direction.

- Let's go that way. - Okay.

- Ciao, ciao, India. Bye. - Bye-bye, India.

Bye-bye, India, we're going back to our…

Well, India is our fatherland, so we're going back to our motherland.

Back to our motherland.

- Point in the right direction. - Okay.

Wait a minute. They drive this way, right?

Dear God, help us. Help us.

- Help us not to get sick. - Exactly.

Well, the goats aren't strong enough to carry us.

Each of us riding a goat.

Riding home on a billy goat!

Picture this, we get to the plane with our goats and say,

"They saved us in the desert, so they're flying with us".