1
00:00:05,360 --> 00:00:07,960
'Hamriyah Dock, Dubai,

2
00:00:07,960 --> 00:00:11,520
'an ordinary place

3
00:00:07,960 --> 00:00:11,520
with a special significance for me.'

4
00:00:14,520 --> 00:00:18,760
It was on this spot 20 years ago
that myself and my film crew

5
00:00:18,760 --> 00:00:25,200
stepped aboard a wooden dhow called
Al Sharma, which took us down the

6
00:00:18,760 --> 00:00:25,200
Persian Gulf and across to Bombay.

7
00:00:25,200 --> 00:00:29,200
<font color="
Around The World In 80 Days.

8
00:00:35,600 --> 00:00:39,360
It was a journey that was to become
one of the most unforgettable

9
00:00:39,360 --> 00:00:40,920
in my 20 years of travelling.

10
00:00:40,920 --> 00:00:45,120
This traditional sailing ship known
as a dhow was my home for a week.

11
00:00:45,120 --> 00:00:49,600
It had no radio,
<font color="

12
00:00:49,600 --> 00:00:53,920
We slept on deck and
steered by the sun and the stars.

13
00:00:53,920 --> 00:00:59,880
We ate what the crew ate, augmented
by the occasional fish caught
on the end of a hook and line.

14
00:00:59,880 --> 00:01:03,240
'Just my luck the day I'm off
my food, I got two of the biggest
<font color="

15
00:01:03,240 --> 00:01:08,600
Our crew, all Indians from Gujarat,
soon became friends,

16
00:01:08,600 --> 00:01:14,280
laughing with me or more often at
me, showing me how and what to eat,

17
00:01:14,280 --> 00:01:17,720
even looking after me
when I was ill.

18
00:01:17,720 --> 00:01:21,080
HE GROANS

19
00:01:21,080 --> 00:01:25,080
'It certainly makes me forget
<font color="

20
00:01:25,080 --> 00:01:28,200
It was only when the time came
to say goodbye

21
00:01:28,200 --> 00:01:31,640
that I realised how much
I was going to miss them.

22
00:01:31,640 --> 00:01:36,840
I've often wondered what happened to
the Al Sharma and her crew and her
captain, with whom we shared so much

23
00:01:36,840 --> 00:01:41,680
<font color="
so I've come back here
to try and find out.

24
00:02:18,600 --> 00:02:25,680
Dubai, where our journey began,
has transformed itself in 20 years,

25
00:02:18,600 --> 00:02:25,680
growing literally by the minute.

26
00:02:25,680 --> 00:02:32,600
This is an offshore property scheme
to be built on sand and shale
<font color="

27
00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:36,920
It's a new world, at least, that's
what the developers are calling it.

28
00:02:36,920 --> 00:02:38,840
Let me explain.

29
00:02:38,840 --> 00:02:42,880
I'm in the Persian Gulf
but I'm standing on Great Britain,

30
00:02:42,880 --> 00:02:45,280
but this Great Britain is man-made.

31
00:02:45,280 --> 00:02:48,280
When it's connected up
<font color="

32
00:02:48,280 --> 00:02:53,080
it's going to be part of
a mind-boggling property complex
called, modestly, The World.

33
00:02:53,080 --> 00:02:56,080
This being Dubai, they're not
stopping there, they're already

34
00:02:56,080 --> 00:03:00,640
building a neighbour out there,
which is going to be called,
<font color="

35
00:03:02,160 --> 00:03:05,680
The dredgers and graders still have
plenty of work to do on this new

36
00:03:05,680 --> 00:03:11,080
world and so far, I can't see much
resemblance to anything in my atlas.

37
00:03:11,080 --> 00:03:15,480
But the higher you go,
the more it begins to make sense.

38
00:03:15,480 --> 00:03:19,080
Isn't that South America
<font color="

39
00:03:19,080 --> 00:03:20,960
and Antarctica below it?

40
00:03:23,920 --> 00:03:28,600
When it comes to fantastical
schemes, Dubai already has four.

41
00:03:28,600 --> 00:03:33,200
The newly-opened,

42
00:03:28,600 --> 00:03:33,200
1,500-room Atlantis Hotel resort

43
00:03:33,200 --> 00:03:36,640
is only one of the properties
built on a giant palm tree.

44
00:03:41,400 --> 00:03:46,920
<font color="

45
00:03:41,400 --> 00:03:46,920
palm tree, I visit John Kelly Quinn,

46
00:03:46,920 --> 00:03:52,200
a Liverpudlian who lives tax free
in a gated community on Frond D.

47
00:03:52,200 --> 00:03:55,200
This is the family room,
which leads out to the garden,

48
00:03:55,200 --> 00:03:58,560
which is obviously a beach, as you
can see, and the pool there.

49
00:03:58,560 --> 00:04:03,120
<font color="
choice of bathing. That's
incredible. Fantastic.

50
00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:06,880
Yeah, that is the sea, isn't it?
Yeah, that's not man-made.

51
00:04:03,120 --> 00:04:06,880
Everything else is.

52
00:04:06,880 --> 00:04:10,000
That's quite natural.

53
00:04:06,880 --> 00:04:10,000
Yeah. And all this sand, that's...

54
00:04:10,000 --> 00:04:12,440
<font color="
dredged up from the seabed.

55
00:04:12,440 --> 00:04:15,240
As you can see, all the signature
villas over the water there.

56
00:04:15,240 --> 00:04:18,920
Yes. They're rather grander. You've
got a lot of stars who live here.

57
00:04:18,920 --> 00:04:20,760
Footballers? Lots of footballers.

58
00:04:20,760 --> 00:04:22,640
<font color="

59
00:04:22,640 --> 00:04:24,680
I believe he's got a villa
here as well.

60
00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:27,560
Simon Cowell, I believe has
got one here, Madonna. Oh.

61
00:04:27,560 --> 00:04:29,320
I've never seen them.

62
00:04:29,320 --> 00:04:31,160
<font color="

63
00:04:31,160 --> 00:04:34,920
Probably no Sheffield United
players. I'm sorry, Mike.

64
00:04:36,920 --> 00:04:40,440
Modesty is not a word
you hear much in Dubai.

65
00:04:40,440 --> 00:04:43,280
In the 20 years
since I was last here,

66
00:04:43,280 --> 00:04:46,960
this has become a city
<font color="

67
00:04:46,960 --> 00:04:50,680
Anything the rest of the world
can spend, Dubai can spend more.

68
00:04:50,680 --> 00:04:54,480
Anything the world can build,
Dubai can build bigger.

69
00:04:54,480 --> 00:05:00,200
This is the tallest building in the
world, about 700 metres right now.

70
00:05:00,200 --> 00:05:02,280
That's about 2,200 feet,

71
00:05:02,280 --> 00:05:04,320
<font color="

72
00:05:04,320 --> 00:05:08,320
that it's going to get up about
3,000 feet or about 900 metres.

73
00:05:10,440 --> 00:05:14,360
Dubai has been called
Las Vegas on steroids.

74
00:05:14,360 --> 00:05:17,280
There seems no limit
to its vaunting ambition

75
00:05:17,280 --> 00:05:20,320
as it sets about creating
<font color="

76
00:05:22,440 --> 00:05:27,600
In Dubai, nothing is impossible.
Whatever you want, you can have.

77
00:05:29,560 --> 00:05:32,680
The last time I skied was ten years
ago in America,

78
00:05:32,680 --> 00:05:36,480
but who needs the Rockies when you

79
00:05:32,680 --> 00:05:36,480
can have a metre of fresh-laid snow

80
00:05:36,480 --> 00:05:37,960
every day of the year,

81
00:05:37,960 --> 00:05:42,120
<font color="
is hot enough to fry an egg.

82
00:05:51,200 --> 00:05:55,720
They don't manufacture much
in Dubai but snow they do make,

83
00:05:55,720 --> 00:05:59,360
30 tons a day, 10,000 tons a year.

84
00:06:01,920 --> 00:06:05,240
Is this a miracle or a flagrant
waste of the earth's resources?

85
00:06:05,240 --> 00:06:07,920
I'll think about that
<font color="

86
00:06:13,440 --> 00:06:15,880
The Emiratis love shopping.

87
00:06:15,880 --> 00:06:19,240
They've turned their traditional

88
00:06:15,880 --> 00:06:19,240
souks and bazaars

89
00:06:19,240 --> 00:06:22,040
into state of the art
temples of consumerism

90
00:06:22,040 --> 00:06:26,280
to which foreigners and locals alike
are irresistibly drawn.

91
00:06:26,280 --> 00:06:31,640
<font color="
tourists a year by 2010.

92
00:06:33,160 --> 00:06:34,640
The symbol of their ambition

93
00:06:34,640 --> 00:06:39,560
is the iconic and exclusive
Burj Al Arab Hotel.

94
00:06:39,560 --> 00:06:44,960
At its gala opening, Tiger Woods
hit a golf ball off the helipad.

95
00:06:46,480 --> 00:06:51,480
Forget five star, the Burj Al Arab
<font color="

96
00:06:51,480 --> 00:06:55,880
And they should know,
they awarded the stars themselves.

97
00:06:55,880 --> 00:06:59,000
Of course, there is a price to pay.

98
00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,000
Welcome to your Presidential Suite.

99
00:07:01,000 --> 00:07:04,480
Fantastic. This way is the

100
00:07:01,000 --> 00:07:04,480
living room with the private cinema.

101
00:07:04,480 --> 00:07:07,280
<font color="

102
00:07:07,280 --> 00:07:10,880
How much would this...? Ha!
There's a bar in every room.

103
00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:13,840
How much would a place like this
set you back

104
00:07:13,840 --> 00:07:16,160
if I wanted to stay for a week, say?

105
00:07:16,160 --> 00:07:18,760
It is £10,000 a night.

106
00:07:18,760 --> 00:07:21,400
A night? £10,000 a night, mm.

107
00:07:22,920 --> 00:07:26,760
<font color="
an hour, do a special rate?

108
00:07:26,760 --> 00:07:28,160
No.

109
00:07:29,880 --> 00:07:33,440
To get over the shock,
I head for the bar...

110
00:07:33,440 --> 00:07:36,280
high on the 27th floor.

111
00:07:36,280 --> 00:07:41,560
It seems a bit unexciting

112
00:07:36,280 --> 00:07:41,560
to have a beer here, I know, because

113
00:07:41,560 --> 00:07:43,760
I've just seen
<font color="

114
00:07:43,760 --> 00:07:48,320
Yeah. At £10,000 a night,
so people have something a bit more
exotic here, do they?

115
00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:52,720
People actually what having here is
the world's most expensive cocktail

116
00:07:52,720 --> 00:07:54,920
we have on offer.

117
00:07:54,920 --> 00:07:57,760
I would expect you would
<font color="

118
00:07:57,760 --> 00:07:59,880
It's a very Dubai thing
that, isn't it?

119
00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:04,520
To have the biggest and most
expensive, so what's in

120
00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:04,520
the world's most expensive cocktail?

121
00:08:04,520 --> 00:08:08,720
It's made with 55-years-old
McClelland single malt Scotch whisky,

122
00:08:08,720 --> 00:08:13,040
<font color="
a really outstanding extraordinary

123
00:08:13,040 --> 00:08:16,240
cocktail and the name,
for instance, is 27-321.

124
00:08:16,240 --> 00:08:20,720
That symbolises the height
of Burj Al Arab, 321 metres,

125
00:08:20,720 --> 00:08:24,120
and it's served on 27th floor
where we're sitting now in our bar.

126
00:08:24,120 --> 00:08:26,520
<font color="
and the price is the name.

127
00:08:26,520 --> 00:08:30,720
The price is the name,
that's £27,321?

128
00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,840
Dirhams. Oh, dirhams. Oh, well.

129
00:08:32,840 --> 00:08:36,120
In pounds, it's about £3,800. Yeah?

130
00:08:36,120 --> 00:08:37,840
For a 55-year-old Scotch?

131
00:08:37,840 --> 00:08:39,880
I mean, that's daylight robbery.

132
00:08:39,880 --> 00:08:44,520
<font color="
by the waterway they call The Creek,

133
00:08:44,520 --> 00:08:48,200
I'm relieved to find that there is
something left of the Dubai

134
00:08:48,200 --> 00:08:49,640
I remember 20 years ago.

135
00:08:51,920 --> 00:08:55,000
Although the new city shimmers
in the background,

136
00:08:55,000 --> 00:08:58,120
I've chosen to stay at one of oldest
<font color="

137
00:08:58,120 --> 00:08:59,880
it's been here over 30 years.

138
00:09:04,400 --> 00:09:07,800
It's from here that I shall plan

139
00:09:04,400 --> 00:09:07,800
the next step of my mission

140
00:09:07,800 --> 00:09:11,320
to track down the Al Sharma
and the crew I got to know so well.

141
00:09:14,280 --> 00:09:19,960
I've brought the original film
out with me, and it's here that
<font color="

142
00:09:19,960 --> 00:09:25,880
'And you, everyone here,
is from the same part of India.'

143
00:09:25,880 --> 00:09:28,160
'Same country. Kutch Mandvi, yeah.'

144
00:09:28,160 --> 00:09:31,880
Kutch Mandvi, that's
the nearest thing to an address.

145
00:09:31,880 --> 00:09:36,120
I know that Kutch is in
the northern part of India,

146
00:09:36,120 --> 00:09:38,080
<font color="

147
00:09:39,040 --> 00:09:42,480
That evening, I find myself
thinking about my old friends.

148
00:09:42,480 --> 00:09:46,120
Do they still live in Kutch Mandvi?
Are they alive or dead?

149
00:09:46,120 --> 00:09:48,320
20 years is a long time.

150
00:09:49,960 --> 00:09:53,680
I have a useful lead.

151
00:09:53,680 --> 00:09:58,080
Close to the public beach on the
<font color="

152
00:09:58,080 --> 00:10:02,880
is the offshore sailing club where
I'm to meet a Captain Bill Nelson.

153
00:10:02,880 --> 00:10:06,400
As head of Ports And Customs
20 years ago,

154
00:10:06,400 --> 00:10:08,680
Bill helped me find a dhow.

155
00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:13,520
Captain Nelson is now 86
and in poor health.

156
00:10:13,520 --> 00:10:16,520
<font color="
he agrees to talk to me.

157
00:10:16,520 --> 00:10:20,760
Captain Nelson, I think you didn't
find us the dhow directly,

158
00:10:20,760 --> 00:10:27,000
you got someone to help us.
That's right, Thursday, Thursday Mohammed,

159
00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:32,080
my assistant at the time.
I remember Kamis, very good,

160
00:10:27,000 --> 00:10:32,080
<font color="

161
00:10:32,080 --> 00:10:34,400
He's a very good fellow.
Is he still around?

162
00:10:34,400 --> 00:10:36,000
He is still around.

163
00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:40,800
In fact, he's the boss

164
00:10:36,000 --> 00:10:40,800
at the control station at Port Dubai.

165
00:10:40,800 --> 00:10:47,840
So, how would I get hold of him?

166
00:10:40,800 --> 00:10:47,840
Is...3-4-5-1-2-4-0.

167
00:10:47,840 --> 00:10:50,720
<font color="

168
00:10:50,720 --> 00:10:56,520
3-4-5-1-2-4-0. OK, ops room.

169
00:10:56,520 --> 00:10:59,920
They will find him for you,
of that there's no doubt.

170
00:10:59,920 --> 00:11:02,720
He helped buy me a blow-up bed,
I think.

171
00:11:04,400 --> 00:11:09,360
Odd thing to go around with an
Emirati buying an inflatable bed
<font color="

172
00:11:09,360 --> 00:11:11,640
Yes. It was very comfortable.

173
00:11:11,640 --> 00:11:14,920
'My contact Kamis,
who works at the port,

174
00:11:14,920 --> 00:11:16,400
'tells me the trading season

175
00:11:16,400 --> 00:11:18,600
'has just resumed
after the summer monsoon.

176
00:11:18,600 --> 00:11:21,040
'There are dhows heading all
<font color="

177
00:11:21,040 --> 00:11:22,760
'down to Somalia and Zanzibar,

178
00:11:22,760 --> 00:11:26,240
'and he's found one
going my way too.'

179
00:11:32,400 --> 00:11:39,720
I associate Kamis with the old port
of Dubai where we took on last
minute supplies before setting out.

180
00:11:39,720 --> 00:11:42,000
It still fizzes with life.

181
00:11:46,680 --> 00:11:50,320
<font color="
a water taxi, across the Creek.

182
00:11:52,080 --> 00:11:56,360
This is one of the few pleasures
left in Dubai that's still cheap.

183
00:11:56,360 --> 00:11:58,640
The journey costs only a few pence.

184
00:12:04,400 --> 00:12:07,240
I'm heading for the office
of Ports And Customs

185
00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:10,480
to meet Kamis again after 20 years.

186
00:12:10,480 --> 00:12:12,520
<font color="

187
00:12:12,520 --> 00:12:15,200
His HQ is right on the neck
of the Creek.

188
00:12:15,200 --> 00:12:18,440
If Al Sharma has passed this way,
he should know.

189
00:12:18,440 --> 00:12:21,360
Ah-ha, could this be the man?

190
00:12:21,360 --> 00:12:23,440
Thursday. Michael.

191
00:12:23,440 --> 00:12:25,200
Hey! Welcome back.

192
00:12:25,200 --> 00:12:27,120
<font color="

193
00:12:27,120 --> 00:12:29,800
Fine, thank you. How are you?

194
00:12:27,120 --> 00:12:29,800
Well, I never!

195
00:12:29,800 --> 00:12:31,560
You don't look a day older.

196
00:12:31,560 --> 00:12:34,360
Thank you very much. You've got

197
00:12:31,560 --> 00:12:34,360
to say the same to me now.

198
00:12:34,360 --> 00:12:37,000
No, no. I'm all grey and old.
<font color="

199
00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:39,120
You're running the customs now,
I gather.

200
00:12:39,120 --> 00:12:42,840
I do. I do, and I'm an advisor now
in Dubai...

201
00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:46,800
Yeah. And I hear you're married now?
Yeah, enjoyed it. How many children?

202
00:12:46,800 --> 00:12:49,560
<font color="

203
00:12:49,560 --> 00:12:54,360
Do you know what happened to
Al Sharma, is it still sailing?

204
00:12:54,360 --> 00:12:57,080
And more importantly,
what happened to the crew?

205
00:12:57,080 --> 00:13:00,560
Unfortunately,
I don't know what happened.

206
00:13:00,560 --> 00:13:04,240
That was the last time,
<font color="

207
00:13:04,240 --> 00:13:10,160
Right. So that day 20 years ago
when we sailed away from Dubai

208
00:13:10,160 --> 00:13:13,080
was the last you saw of me and
the last you saw of the boat. Yeah.

209
00:13:13,080 --> 00:13:15,520
Do you know where they were from?
From Gujarat.

210
00:13:15,520 --> 00:13:18,960
<font color="
You will have to go to Bombay.

211
00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:24,240
Then from Bombay, you have to go to
Gujarat to ask for the family
by the name of Haroum.

212
00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:28,320
They are the owners. Ah.

213
00:13:24,240 --> 00:13:28,320
So they will remember their name.

214
00:13:28,320 --> 00:13:30,920
<font color="

215
00:13:30,920 --> 00:13:33,360
OK. Whatever you are
looking for with them.

216
00:13:33,360 --> 00:13:35,800
OK. Well, that's good.

217
00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,240
I suppose I shouldn't expect the

218
00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:39,240
pieces to fall together

219
00:13:39,240 --> 00:13:43,000
just like that but I can't disguise
a touch of disappointment.

220
00:13:46,560 --> 00:13:50,720
<font color="
Kamis has laid on a surprise.

221
00:13:50,720 --> 00:13:55,800
Using his influence, he's persuaded
the crew of a dhow leaving Dubai

222
00:13:55,800 --> 00:13:57,760
to take me along for a ride.

223
00:13:57,760 --> 00:13:59,600
Oh. Oh.

224
00:13:59,600 --> 00:14:01,160
Hey. Yes!

225
00:14:01,160 --> 00:14:07,200
They're Iranians, carrying a full
<font color="

226
00:14:01,160 --> 00:14:07,200
on Iran's Gulf coast.

227
00:14:08,240 --> 00:14:12,720
For a few hours, I can relive
what once took me a week.

228
00:14:16,680 --> 00:14:20,240
'Will you write down...will you
write down...?'

229
00:14:20,240 --> 00:14:22,200
Me. When I was a baby.

230
00:14:26,120 --> 00:14:30,080
Well, this dhow isn't quite
<font color="

231
00:14:30,080 --> 00:14:32,320
and I'm only on it for an afternoon,

232
00:14:32,320 --> 00:14:35,280
but already it brings back
intense feelings,

233
00:14:35,280 --> 00:14:38,840
the feelings of being away
from the rest of the world...

234
00:14:38,840 --> 00:14:42,360
And these guys I've only just met,
very cheerful, very friendly.

235
00:14:42,360 --> 00:14:46,080
<font color="
other dhow during the eight days,

236
00:14:46,080 --> 00:14:49,920
how mutual incomprehension in the
beginning gave way to friendship

237
00:14:49,920 --> 00:14:54,000
and then genuine affection by
the end because we relied on them.

238
00:14:54,000 --> 00:14:56,960
With all our technology
and our gadgets,

239
00:14:56,960 --> 00:15:00,320
<font color="
skills to get us to Bombay.

240
00:15:00,320 --> 00:15:03,160
And I've never really had
a relationship like that

241
00:15:03,160 --> 00:15:04,880
with any other group of people,

242
00:15:04,880 --> 00:15:08,000
quite different from my own,
at any other time on my travels.

243
00:15:08,000 --> 00:15:11,240
It was a unique relationship and
<font color="

244
00:15:11,240 --> 00:15:14,560
and find out if some of those guys
that we got to know so well

245
00:15:14,560 --> 00:15:16,400
at that time are still around.

246
00:15:28,120 --> 00:15:33,000
My next destination must be Mumbai,
Bombay as it was then,

247
00:15:33,000 --> 00:15:36,280
and after that, Kutch Mandvi
is a strong possibility.

248
00:15:36,280 --> 00:15:38,160
<font color="

249
00:15:38,160 --> 00:15:41,200
unless I'm pretty sure
the captain and crew are there.

250
00:15:41,200 --> 00:15:44,840
Whatever happens,
I need a few more answers.

251
00:15:49,040 --> 00:15:51,960
'20 years ago,
I spent my first night in India

252
00:15:51,960 --> 00:15:56,600
'here at the Taj Hotel, grubby
<font color="

253
00:15:56,600 --> 00:15:59,640
Welcome to the Taj, sir. Thank you.

254
00:15:59,640 --> 00:16:02,920
'This time I'm greeted with
the full VIP treatment,

255
00:16:02,920 --> 00:16:04,560
'garlanded with marigolds

256
00:16:04,560 --> 00:16:08,160
'before being shown to the Rajput
suite, which has a famous history.'

257
00:16:08,160 --> 00:16:11,040
<font color="
quite a few celebrities

258
00:16:11,040 --> 00:16:13,160
who've stayed in it over the years.

259
00:16:13,160 --> 00:16:16,000
In fact John Lennon
and Yoko Ono stayed there,

260
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:20,440
and for five full nights they didn't
leave the room even once.

261
00:16:21,480 --> 00:16:25,520
Please, after you. Yes. Not like

262
00:16:21,480 --> 00:16:25,520
<font color="

263
00:16:25,520 --> 00:16:27,880
Oh, right. It's quite grand.

264
00:16:27,880 --> 00:16:30,320
It is too actually.

265
00:16:27,880 --> 00:16:30,320
HE CHUCKLES

266
00:16:30,320 --> 00:16:33,200
I can see why he didn't want
to come out for five days.

267
00:16:33,200 --> 00:16:37,800
The entire suite is in

268
00:16:33,200 --> 00:16:37,800
a very Indian decor, as you can see.

269
00:16:37,800 --> 00:16:40,320
<font color="
was a dynasty in India,

270
00:16:40,320 --> 00:16:43,480
so the entire suite
is designed to give that feel.

271
00:16:43,480 --> 00:16:45,080
Yes, it does, doesn't it?

272
00:16:45,080 --> 00:16:49,480
So, it's unlike a hotel room,
it's like a palace, isn't it?

273
00:16:49,480 --> 00:16:53,440
It's absolutely fabulous, and
<font color="

274
00:16:53,440 --> 00:16:57,320
of the old days when queens liked
to sit and look at the ocean.

275
00:16:57,320 --> 00:16:59,560
Oh, lovely, lovely.

276
00:17:01,240 --> 00:17:04,040
That's amazing, I'll look
forward to that anyway.

277
00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:06,000
So my bags will be sent up,
will they?

278
00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:09,320
<font color="

279
00:17:09,320 --> 00:17:11,080
All right.

280
00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:15,760
'News from room 276 is mixed.

281
00:17:15,760 --> 00:17:18,160
'I've drawn a blank with
Thursday' contact Haroum

282
00:17:18,160 --> 00:17:21,040
'but I've had a piece of luck.'

283
00:17:21,040 --> 00:17:25,080
I have got a lead which comes
from the BBC files

284
00:17:25,080 --> 00:17:29,360
<font color="
and they tell us

285
00:17:29,360 --> 00:17:33,800
that Dukaran Murji And Sons
were...the brokers

286
00:17:33,800 --> 00:17:37,080
who organised Al Sharma's cargo.

287
00:17:37,080 --> 00:17:41,760
I talked to a man there called
Digant Joshi and he had inherited

288
00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:46,040
this business from his father, and
<font color="

289
00:17:46,040 --> 00:17:48,160
some information about Al Sharma

290
00:17:48,160 --> 00:17:52,520
and about whether the crew are still
around, which is very good news.

291
00:17:52,520 --> 00:17:55,840
He said it'd take a couple of days,
he's got his business to run.

292
00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:58,560
But that was, I thought, a very good
bit of news,

293
00:17:58,560 --> 00:18:01,480
<font color="
will come through from him

294
00:18:01,480 --> 00:18:03,000
in the next couple of days.

295
00:18:03,000 --> 00:18:05,880
Very, very nice, it gives
me time to look around.

296
00:18:09,520 --> 00:18:14,720
'This is Churchgate Station, one of
Mumbai's busiest commuter terminals.

297
00:18:14,720 --> 00:18:18,000
'A lady called Jyoti Namasti
<font color="

298
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:20,560
'and throw me into the city
at the deep end.'

299
00:18:20,560 --> 00:18:23,360
How many people
cram on these trains every day?

300
00:18:23,360 --> 00:18:27,320
6 million to 6.5 million people
travel every day

301
00:18:27,320 --> 00:18:29,520
from north Bombay to south Bombay

302
00:18:29,520 --> 00:18:32,440
<font color="
in the evening.

303
00:18:32,440 --> 00:18:35,600
We've been described
as sardines in a box.

304
00:18:35,600 --> 00:18:39,080
'But believe it or not,
this is the quiet time of day,

305
00:18:39,080 --> 00:18:42,160
'the time to
see the tiffin wallahs in action.

306
00:18:42,160 --> 00:18:45,400
'They carry on their heads
<font color="

307
00:18:45,400 --> 00:18:48,520
'containing hot meals
made by beautiful housewives

308
00:18:48,520 --> 00:18:50,400
'for their husbands in the city.'

309
00:18:50,400 --> 00:18:54,400
They will collect it,
push it on the trains in the suburbs.

310
00:18:54,400 --> 00:18:56,880
It takes about half an hour
or an hour for it

311
00:18:56,880 --> 00:18:59,680
<font color="
that you see here.

312
00:19:01,200 --> 00:19:04,520
Outside the station,
the daily miracle begins.

313
00:19:04,520 --> 00:19:09,440
The tiffin wallahs carry the lunches
across a busy road to be sorted.

314
00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:12,000
How they're sorted is a mystery,

315
00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:15,360
for the lunchboxes bear
<font color="

316
00:19:16,360 --> 00:19:19,000
The second counterpart
will take it out,

317
00:19:19,000 --> 00:19:22,880
and the third man will reshuffle
all the tins away out.

318
00:19:22,880 --> 00:19:26,400
That's what they're doing, that's
what the systematic chaos is.

319
00:19:26,400 --> 00:19:29,200
The third man that reshuffle,
<font color="

320
00:19:29,200 --> 00:19:31,760
one there, and he takes three
from there, four from there.

321
00:19:31,760 --> 00:19:34,560
So they've been brought
from different suburbs,

322
00:19:34,560 --> 00:19:38,440
they've been reshuffled here,
and they go to different offices.

323
00:19:38,440 --> 00:19:41,720
But don't they lose the tiffin every
<font color="

324
00:19:41,720 --> 00:19:45,480
One in a trillion.
One in a trillion is lost?

325
00:19:45,480 --> 00:19:49,960
American magazine Forbes says the
accuracy rate is 99.999%. Fantastic.

326
00:19:49,960 --> 00:19:53,680
They have been given the Six Sigma
accuracy rate, as much as Motorola

327
00:19:53,680 --> 00:19:57,400
<font color="
Mumbai, nowhere else in the world.

328
00:19:57,400 --> 00:20:00,960
They tried to call them to Italy
to have a system put there,

329
00:20:00,960 --> 00:20:04,240
and they said, "Your trains are not
on time, so we can't do it."

330
00:20:06,360 --> 00:20:09,840
Prince Charles was here,
he wanted to see them in action,

331
00:20:09,840 --> 00:20:13,920
<font color="
He gave three of them a free ticket

332
00:20:13,920 --> 00:20:16,640
to come to his second marriage
to England. Really?

333
00:20:19,400 --> 00:20:22,520
Do you think it's a bit selfish
of the Indian men

334
00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:26,280
to expect a hot meal
every lunchtime delivered to them?

335
00:20:26,280 --> 00:20:29,080
<font color="
a woman's privilege to cook,

336
00:20:29,080 --> 00:20:30,720
and men in India...

337
00:20:30,720 --> 00:20:34,280
this is a male-dominated country,
to a certain extent.

338
00:20:34,280 --> 00:20:36,200
Times are changing very fast,

339
00:20:36,200 --> 00:20:38,880
but then they would love
to have a hot meal.

340
00:20:38,880 --> 00:20:41,000
<font color="

341
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:43,120
so they expect a hot
meal from the wife.

342
00:20:43,120 --> 00:20:46,200
Like, I am working,
he still gets a hot meal.

343
00:20:46,200 --> 00:20:49,480
It's an example of the paradox
that is Mumbai,

344
00:20:49,480 --> 00:20:53,720
a state of chaos in which
<font color="

345
00:20:53,720 --> 00:20:57,760
Like this laundry,
to which Jyoti has brought me

346
00:20:57,760 --> 00:21:00,520
for practical
as well as scenic reasons.

347
00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:07,760
It's quite an extraordinary place.

348
00:21:02,760 --> 00:21:07,760
This is the biggest open-air laundry

349
00:21:07,760 --> 00:21:09,000
unique to Mumbai,

350
00:21:09,000 --> 00:21:12,800
<font color="
wash the clothes here.

351
00:21:12,800 --> 00:21:17,640
There are 500 of them and this
is the biggest laundry in Mumbai.

352
00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:27,480
The stone is supplied to him
by the government.

353
00:21:27,480 --> 00:21:29,800
It's passed on from father to son.

354
00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:35,240
They pay nothing for the stone.
<font color="
high quality, but see the clothes.

355
00:21:35,240 --> 00:21:37,160
They're sparklingly white.

356
00:21:37,160 --> 00:21:39,720
I actually had
this quite good pair of trousers

357
00:21:39,720 --> 00:21:41,880
and we were filming
in Dubai on the dhow

358
00:21:41,880 --> 00:21:45,400
and the dhow's absolutely covered
<font color="

359
00:21:45,400 --> 00:21:47,680
Could they do them here,
do you think?

360
00:21:47,680 --> 00:21:50,600
Oh, yes, the dhobis do
an excellent job. Yeah.

361
00:21:50,600 --> 00:21:54,360
You will see them, see the whiteness
of the clothes, see the dirty water,

362
00:21:54,360 --> 00:21:57,760
and they will wash it. In five
<font color="

363
00:21:57,760 --> 00:22:01,640
And they iron it for you and
send it back to your hotel.

364
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,720
Let's see how the mark is.

365
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,720
Here they are, shall I show them

366
00:22:01,640 --> 00:22:05,720
to you? There we are.

367
00:22:06,960 --> 00:22:08,720
You see it's on the back there.

368
00:22:10,240 --> 00:22:12,360
<font color="

369
00:22:12,360 --> 00:22:16,720
It is oil. The washing machine
will not take it out, but the dhobis
will do an excellent job.

370
00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:20,240
I thought I was going to have
to throw them away.

371
00:22:20,240 --> 00:22:22,960
Hello, hello, erm...

372
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:25,080
Look at that, oil, I think.

373
00:22:25,080 --> 00:22:28,560
<font color="
is it possible to save the trousers?

374
00:22:28,560 --> 00:22:31,040
Yes, he will. There he goes...

375
00:22:31,040 --> 00:22:33,320
Giving them a go, yeah.

376
00:22:33,320 --> 00:22:35,880
With the brush,
with the cake of soap. Yeah.

377
00:22:35,880 --> 00:22:38,000
And he will hit it.

378
00:22:42,120 --> 00:22:48,760
We've got at home, we've got a whole
<font color="
removers...every kind of stain.

379
00:22:48,760 --> 00:22:50,760
Oh, they don't work in India.

380
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:53,320
No. This works. This works.

381
00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:58,000
So, he's washed them now,
and now he's...

382
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:01,000
Hitting it on the stone,
the dirt comes out.

383
00:23:03,200 --> 00:23:07,680
<font color="
will have to redo the buttons.

384
00:23:07,680 --> 00:23:11,240
Don't say that, I'll do them myself.
Yes, I know what you mean.

385
00:23:11,240 --> 00:23:14,240
So, that's the price you pay
for getting them really clean.

386
00:23:14,240 --> 00:23:17,600
Has he done it? Yes. He's putting

387
00:23:14,240 --> 00:23:17,600
<font color="

388
00:23:17,600 --> 00:23:19,560
He's dipped it in the clean water.

389
00:23:19,560 --> 00:23:22,320
Brilliant. I wish I'd brought
all my laundry.

390
00:23:22,320 --> 00:23:24,080
None of the clothes are lost.

391
00:23:24,080 --> 00:23:28,200
Maybe a few buttons are broken,
that's the only thing. Yeah.

392
00:23:28,200 --> 00:23:32,680
<font color="

393
00:23:32,680 --> 00:23:34,640
They've never looked cleaner.

394
00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:40,240
'I return to the heart of Mumbai,

395
00:23:40,240 --> 00:23:45,920
'crisp and spotless in the trouser
area to the Cafe Leopold.

396
00:23:45,920 --> 00:23:49,600
'It's cheap and cheerful,
and I'm told is a favourite haunt

397
00:23:49,600 --> 00:23:54,040
'of talent spotters looking for
<font color="

398
00:23:56,680 --> 00:24:00,040
'Ah, my luck is in.

399
00:24:00,040 --> 00:24:05,720
'All I need now is to make myself
look irresistible, but...subtly.'

400
00:24:27,400 --> 00:24:29,680
Hello. Hi, there. Hi. Michael.

401
00:24:29,680 --> 00:24:31,240
I'm Wasim. How are you?

402
00:24:31,240 --> 00:24:34,520
I'm very well, very well. I'm
<font color="

403
00:24:34,520 --> 00:24:37,120
You are? Yes, I'm told
that's what happens here.

404
00:24:37,120 --> 00:24:39,080
I'm actually a coordinator myself.

405
00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:43,840
Ah. Yes, I'm coordinating

406
00:24:39,080 --> 00:24:43,840
for some extras in a Bollywood movie.
And what pay do they get?

407
00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,240
<font color="
rupees for an eight hours' job,

408
00:24:47,240 --> 00:24:48,800
normally six to eight hours.

409
00:24:48,800 --> 00:24:50,760
£10?

410
00:24:50,760 --> 00:24:52,280
That's slave labour.

411
00:24:52,280 --> 00:24:55,200
That's 1,000 rupees and
that's a lot of money in India.

412
00:24:55,200 --> 00:24:57,840
What if you have a dialogue
<font color="

413
00:24:57,840 --> 00:25:00,120
It's the same thing.
Is it? More or less, yes.

414
00:25:00,120 --> 00:25:04,840
So what kind of part would you see
a 65-year-old man like me playing?

415
00:25:04,840 --> 00:25:08,960
Maybe a manager, a big cog
in a big office, you know. Really?

416
00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:11,400
<font color="
like Microsoft or something.

417
00:25:11,400 --> 00:25:14,840
CEO, now you're talking.
CEO, that's right.

418
00:25:14,840 --> 00:25:17,320
Right on. I usually only do vicars.

419
00:25:18,360 --> 00:25:20,960
'I don't get the part,
our dates clashed,

420
00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:22,920
'but I do get something better,

421
00:25:22,920 --> 00:25:26,800
<font color="
legendary figures of Bollywood,

422
00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:29,680
'writer producer and director
Mahesh Bhatt.

423
00:25:29,680 --> 00:25:31,960
'He's currently shooting a new film

424
00:25:31,960 --> 00:25:34,480
'at a beachside villa
outside Mumbai.'

425
00:25:34,480 --> 00:25:36,280
Hello, Michael! Come, come.

426
00:25:36,280 --> 00:25:39,160
<font color="
to meet you.

427
00:25:39,160 --> 00:25:40,760
Thank you very much indeed.

428
00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:43,080
Hello, nice to meet you.
Hello, how are you?

429
00:25:43,080 --> 00:25:45,520
How was your journey, a long drive?

430
00:25:45,520 --> 00:25:48,800
Yes, yes, yes. Come into my parlour.

431
00:25:48,800 --> 00:25:53,200
Come into my parlour
<font color="

432
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:55,560
The fly will be on camera.

433
00:25:58,960 --> 00:26:02,960
'Mahesh Bhatt's latest film
is called Jashn, Celebration.'

434
00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:06,760
The sea will not have an animal...

435
00:26:06,760 --> 00:26:10,640
'The picture features Bollywood
starlet Shahana Goswami

436
00:26:10,640 --> 00:26:13,800
<font color="
Humayun Saeed.'

437
00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:19,440
Do you know your fellow actors?
No, we've all met for the first

438
00:26:13,800 --> 00:26:19,440
time...the first time we've met.

439
00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:24,560
In fact, one of them has just
been killed. Terribly sorry,

440
00:26:19,440 --> 00:26:24,560
you got the part.

441
00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:28,040
<font color="

442
00:26:24,560 --> 00:26:28,040
was it?

443
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:37,160
It's become quite a fad to be
in this industry

444
00:26:37,160 --> 00:26:41,120
and people are leaving
their investment banking jobs

445
00:26:41,120 --> 00:26:45,680
and coming into, you know,
being ADs for 10,000 rupees

446
00:26:45,680 --> 00:26:47,520
from the 20 like jobs.

447
00:26:47,520 --> 00:26:51,880
<font color="
everyone wants to be kind of

448
00:26:51,880 --> 00:26:56,200
in the field, if not necessarily
an actor or an actress, but yes,

449
00:26:56,200 --> 00:26:59,800
there's a huge influx of
people coming into this world.

450
00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:01,120
Silent, silent.

451
00:27:01,120 --> 00:27:06,840
'Mahesh may be a Bollywood veteran
<font color="
undiminished.'

452
00:27:06,840 --> 00:27:08,000
Action.

453
00:27:11,720 --> 00:27:15,040
'He's seen Bollywood evolve from
escapist song and dance spectaculars

454
00:27:15,040 --> 00:27:19,080
'to more realistic dramas like
the one they're shooting today.'

455
00:27:21,280 --> 00:27:23,600
Cut it...very good.

456
00:27:24,600 --> 00:27:28,800
<font color="
kiss was taboo for years,

457
00:27:28,800 --> 00:27:32,920
'Mahesh has been a liberating,
often controversial figure.'

458
00:27:32,920 --> 00:27:35,160
I am one of those film-makers
who's been accused

459
00:27:35,160 --> 00:27:39,680
of introducing soft porn to
Bollywood, and I plead guilty to
<font color="

460
00:27:39,680 --> 00:27:45,640
If we had to seduce the consumer
into the cinema halls, we needed to
change the way we were making movies.

461
00:27:45,640 --> 00:27:49,040
So we kind of eroticised our movies,

462
00:27:49,040 --> 00:27:54,360
we put in this sexual component
a little more stronger

463
00:27:54,360 --> 00:28:00,400
<font color="
and we kind of raised the bar.

464
00:28:00,400 --> 00:28:02,520
Can you give me an example of this,

465
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:05,240
like you see
a couple in bed together?

466
00:28:05,240 --> 00:28:12,280
Yeah, I mean you had passionate
kisses now and you also had...

467
00:28:12,280 --> 00:28:14,280
premarital sex.

468
00:28:14,280 --> 00:28:17,120
<font color="

469
00:28:17,120 --> 00:28:23,640
We also had a man and woman getting
into multi-partner relationship,

470
00:28:23,640 --> 00:28:25,880
so all that started happening,

471
00:28:25,880 --> 00:28:29,320
and that was what
the young felt comfortable with

472
00:28:29,320 --> 00:28:31,360
because that was their life.

473
00:28:31,360 --> 00:28:34,200
And I would say that
<font color="

474
00:28:34,200 --> 00:28:37,560
is less hypocritical
than the earlier generation.

475
00:28:37,560 --> 00:28:41,640
The earlier lot wanted sex but
it wanted it through the back door.

476
00:28:41,640 --> 00:28:44,400
The mantra of our predecessors

477
00:28:44,400 --> 00:28:48,400
was good people fall in love,
bad people have sex.

478
00:28:58,920 --> 00:29:04,440
<font color="

479
00:28:58,920 --> 00:29:04,440
back from my contact Digant Joshi.

480
00:29:04,440 --> 00:29:10,520
He runs the biggest dhow operation
in Mumbai from his HQ in the
busy streets near Princess Dock.

481
00:29:14,880 --> 00:29:20,440
His head office,
I eventually find it, is hardly what
you'd expect of a shipping mogul.

482
00:29:20,440 --> 00:29:24,040
<font color="
is not at first encouraging.

483
00:29:24,040 --> 00:29:25,920
What news of Al Sharma?

484
00:29:25,920 --> 00:29:30,440
Al Sharma, when you were there
20 years back,

485
00:29:30,440 --> 00:29:33,520
the owner was Taled Mohammed.

486
00:29:33,520 --> 00:29:38,320
They went bankrupt
and he cannot maintain the launch.

487
00:29:38,320 --> 00:29:44,200
<font color="
back, he sold it to someone else,

488
00:29:44,200 --> 00:29:48,760
and that person was taking
the launch from Veraval,

489
00:29:48,760 --> 00:29:52,000
Gujarat to Jamsala for the repairing.

490
00:29:52,000 --> 00:29:54,480
Hm. During that voyage,

491
00:29:54,480 --> 00:30:00,400
Al Sharma sank into
<font color="

492
00:30:00,400 --> 00:30:02,240
So I just missed seeing it.

493
00:30:02,240 --> 00:30:06,240
Just missed.
And did the crew survive?

494
00:30:06,240 --> 00:30:09,280
Crew were saved by another launch...

495
00:30:10,800 --> 00:30:14,280
..which was plying
along with Al Sharma.

496
00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:18,840
Would this be the same crew
<font color="

497
00:30:18,840 --> 00:30:22,400
Different crew because
the owner sold it to somebody else

498
00:30:22,400 --> 00:30:24,240
and all the crew were changed.

499
00:30:24,240 --> 00:30:27,040
Any news of Captain Suliman
and the crew?

500
00:30:27,040 --> 00:30:29,760
Captain Suliman is in Mandvi.

501
00:30:29,760 --> 00:30:31,320
Kutch. Mandvi.

502
00:30:31,320 --> 00:30:36,200
<font color="
Mandvi and one is a Salaya Mandvi.

503
00:30:36,200 --> 00:30:39,560
Right. Which is near the sea.

504
00:30:39,560 --> 00:30:42,520
So you can go to Salaya Mandvi

505
00:30:42,520 --> 00:30:46,280
and ask anybody about the captain
of Al Sharma,

506
00:30:46,280 --> 00:30:50,040
Suliman,
and you can easily get about.

507
00:30:50,040 --> 00:30:52,600
<font color="
of getting to Mandvi?

508
00:30:52,600 --> 00:30:58,320
You can take train from Mumbai
which goes to Bhuj. Yeah.

509
00:30:58,320 --> 00:31:00,800
The train name is Kutch Express.

510
00:31:00,800 --> 00:31:06,360
You can go to Bhuj and from Bhuj,
the Mandvi is 60 kilometres
away from Bhuj.

511
00:31:06,360 --> 00:31:10,920
<font color="
very seriously is astrology.

512
00:31:10,920 --> 00:31:14,480
'Before I leave, there's someone
I'd very much like to meet again.

513
00:31:14,480 --> 00:31:17,800
'Janjit Upall was
the hotel's resident astrologer

514
00:31:17,800 --> 00:31:21,960
'and when I consulted him 20 years
ago, he was uncannily accurate.'

515
00:31:21,960 --> 00:31:27,080
<font color="
what lies in store for me
in the next two or three months?

516
00:31:27,080 --> 00:31:30,720
As it's boat sailing, it's
a pleasant journey and on schedule.

517
00:31:30,720 --> 00:31:33,800
If not you may even try
to complete it ahead of schedule.

518
00:31:33,800 --> 00:31:38,160
If you've lost some time,
<font color="
of your recovering that time.

519
00:31:38,160 --> 00:31:40,360
You are full of
a spirit of adventure.

520
00:31:40,360 --> 00:31:43,680
He's agreed to give me an update.

521
00:31:43,680 --> 00:31:48,280
We're hoping to try and find
the crew of Al Sharma.

522
00:31:48,280 --> 00:31:51,760
Have you any idea from the charts
<font color="

523
00:31:51,760 --> 00:31:55,200
whether we will find them,
whether we'll be lucky?

524
00:31:55,200 --> 00:31:57,080
Yes, you will, you will.

525
00:31:57,080 --> 00:32:00,920
You will find them and you
will get interesting input too.

526
00:32:00,920 --> 00:32:02,800
Will they be pleased to see me?

527
00:32:02,800 --> 00:32:05,400
Very much pleased to see you.

528
00:32:05,400 --> 00:32:06,920
<font color="

529
00:32:06,920 --> 00:32:11,960
I was going to ask you about, you
know you saw me 20 years ago,

530
00:32:11,960 --> 00:32:13,520
and with chart like that,

531
00:32:13,520 --> 00:32:16,400
can you tell enough
to talk about my character?

532
00:32:16,400 --> 00:32:20,000
Do you have any sort of
feelings about that? Yes.

533
00:32:20,000 --> 00:32:23,520
<font color="
over as a very emotional person.

534
00:32:23,520 --> 00:32:27,320
Very emotional, family oriented,

535
00:32:27,320 --> 00:32:29,880
I would say even a spiritual person.

536
00:32:29,880 --> 00:32:34,520
I mean you read more meaning to life
than what is apparent.

537
00:32:34,520 --> 00:32:36,440
You question life,

538
00:32:36,440 --> 00:32:39,080
and I must say that your work,
<font color="

539
00:32:39,080 --> 00:32:43,720
to the mountains, to north world,
Himalayas, Tibet,

540
00:32:43,720 --> 00:32:45,720
it was not only a journey

541
00:32:45,720 --> 00:32:48,480
to make something
spectacular which you have made,

542
00:32:48,480 --> 00:32:50,400
but it was a journey within the self.

543
00:32:50,400 --> 00:32:52,360
It was rediscovering yourself.

544
00:32:52,360 --> 00:32:56,280
<font color="
that I've done in the 20 years

545
00:32:56,280 --> 00:32:59,000
since I saw you,
which I never expected to do,

546
00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:01,120
is that part of an ongoing process?

547
00:33:01,120 --> 00:33:03,880
Do you think I'll ever just say,
"Stop, that's it?"

548
00:33:03,880 --> 00:33:05,960
No, it's an ongoing process.

549
00:33:05,960 --> 00:33:08,840
<font color="
you will keep travelling.

550
00:33:08,840 --> 00:33:11,080
That's part of your nature.

551
00:33:11,080 --> 00:33:13,200
Do you hear that, Helen? Sorry.

552
00:33:14,720 --> 00:33:16,120
The journey goes on.

553
00:33:18,480 --> 00:33:20,600
'The journey goes north now.

554
00:33:20,600 --> 00:33:26,520
'I find myself booked on the Kutch
Express under the name of Mr Polin.

555
00:33:26,520 --> 00:33:28,040
<font color="

556
00:33:36,480 --> 00:33:40,680
'The overnight sleeper will take me
northwest via Ahmedabad in Gujarat

557
00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:45,800
'to the terminus at Bhuj, capital of
the old princely state of Kutch,

558
00:33:45,800 --> 00:33:49,680
'close to the Pakistan border.'

559
00:34:01,120 --> 00:34:03,680
I think I'm up there.

560
00:34:03,680 --> 00:34:06,000
Hello, can I squeeze in? Thank you.

561
00:34:06,000 --> 00:34:09,680
<font color="
that's very kind.

562
00:34:09,680 --> 00:34:12,720
Sit with the little girl.
A boy or girl?

563
00:34:12,720 --> 00:34:14,600
Girl. A girl, yeah.

564
00:34:14,600 --> 00:34:17,240
And what's your name?

565
00:34:17,240 --> 00:34:19,040
Vanya. Vanya.

566
00:34:19,040 --> 00:34:20,560
She loves trains. Yes.

567
00:34:20,560 --> 00:34:23,040
<font color="

568
00:34:34,880 --> 00:34:39,200
Thank you, very good.
Thank you very much.

569
00:34:39,200 --> 00:34:41,080
Five. Five, thank you.

570
00:34:41,080 --> 00:34:43,160
Anyone else want one?

571
00:35:03,640 --> 00:35:05,800
'As dawn breaks,
we're in Gujarat,

572
00:35:05,800 --> 00:35:08,680
'home state
of the hero of Indian Independence,

573
00:35:08,680 --> 00:35:13,480
<font color="
the crew of Al Sharma as well.

574
00:35:13,480 --> 00:35:18,480
'We've come a long way north
in the night to a part of India
I don't know.'

575
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:37,840
This is Gandhidham Junction because
Gandhi was born very near here

576
00:35:37,840 --> 00:35:40,080
and of course he died.

577
00:35:40,080 --> 00:35:44,960
<font color="
years ago, the Father of India,

578
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:49,400
so, a rather important man
from the Gujarat point of view.

579
00:35:49,400 --> 00:35:52,120
It's also why Gujarat is dry,
a dry state.

580
00:35:52,120 --> 00:35:55,840
He encouraged the men not
to drink cos it was bad for them.

581
00:35:55,840 --> 00:36:01,120
<font color="
largely vegetarian as well.

582
00:36:01,120 --> 00:36:03,400
The people are supposed to be
very jolly.

583
00:36:04,960 --> 00:36:07,640
'The Kutch Express is running
over an hour late,

584
00:36:07,640 --> 00:36:11,720
'but we're up country now and
no-one seems in much of a hurry.

585
00:36:15,000 --> 00:36:19,200
<font color="
the railway are single track,

586
00:36:19,200 --> 00:36:22,000
'though still maintained
with meticulous zeal

587
00:36:22,000 --> 00:36:25,720
'not a little reminiscent
of the old days of the Raj.

588
00:36:47,400 --> 00:36:50,720
'20 stops and 15 hours
after leaving Mumbai,

589
00:36:50,720 --> 00:36:54,000
'we reach the end

590
00:36:50,720 --> 00:36:54,000
<font color="

591
00:37:00,040 --> 00:37:06,200
'Bhuj is the capital of Kutch,
and I take a couple of hours to look
around before going on to Mandvi.

592
00:37:10,840 --> 00:37:13,320
'There are some fine buildings
to see in Bhuj,

593
00:37:13,320 --> 00:37:17,160
'but few of them escaped
the devastating earthquake

594
00:37:17,160 --> 00:37:20,840
<font color="
2001, Republic Day,

595
00:37:20,840 --> 00:37:22,600
'when the people of Bhuj,

596
00:37:22,600 --> 00:37:25,760
'like the rest of the country,
should have been celebrating.

597
00:37:33,160 --> 00:37:37,040
'There was a colossal loss of life
and no-one was untouched.

598
00:37:37,040 --> 00:37:40,520
'The Mahara of Kutch lost
<font color="

599
00:37:40,520 --> 00:37:45,000
'and what remains standing looks as
if it could fall down any minute.

600
00:37:47,880 --> 00:37:51,400
'Now the only occupants
of its marble halls are birds

601
00:37:51,400 --> 00:37:53,760
'that nest in the rotting ceilings.

602
00:38:01,440 --> 00:38:04,000
'Portraits stare into the void,

603
00:38:04,000 --> 00:38:07,840
'and dust covers the trophies
<font color="

604
00:38:14,200 --> 00:38:18,600
'Out in the centre of Bhuj, optimism
has returned to the rebuilt streets

605
00:38:18,600 --> 00:38:21,600
'and people don't talk much
about the earthquake.

606
00:38:21,600 --> 00:38:23,080
'But no-one's forgotten.

607
00:38:23,080 --> 00:38:26,960
'Manjana Maycha has not forgotten.'

608
00:38:26,960 --> 00:38:30,680
They started shouting, "Earthquake,
<font color="

609
00:38:30,680 --> 00:38:32,840
Yeah. As soon as I came out,

610
00:38:32,840 --> 00:38:34,800
the shop was collapsed.

611
00:38:34,800 --> 00:38:37,920
The shop you'd just been in

612
00:38:34,800 --> 00:38:37,920
collapsed behind you? Behind me.

613
00:38:37,920 --> 00:38:42,120
You were a second away from being
<font color="

614
00:38:42,120 --> 00:38:45,280
And what was the scene
outside here, were just people...

615
00:38:45,280 --> 00:38:50,400
They started running
and crying and shouting.

616
00:38:50,400 --> 00:38:56,360
People, animals, dogs,
just running here and there.

617
00:38:56,360 --> 00:38:58,320
What did you do, did you just run?

618
00:38:58,320 --> 00:39:00,920
<font color="
and stand in the corner.

619
00:39:00,920 --> 00:39:03,240
Oh, you must have prayed,
did you pray?

620
00:39:03,240 --> 00:39:06,600
Yes, yes, of course.

621
00:39:03,240 --> 00:39:06,600
SHE LAUGHS

622
00:39:06,600 --> 00:39:10,120
Well, your prayers were answered
cos you're still here,

623
00:39:10,120 --> 00:39:12,600
but it was awful for the town,
<font color="

624
00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:16,280
I mean, it was a big loss of life.
Yes.

625
00:39:16,280 --> 00:39:18,760
Nearly 100,000.

626
00:39:18,760 --> 00:39:20,320
Nearly 100,000?

627
00:39:20,320 --> 00:39:22,840
All the locals.
All over Kutch. Yeah.

628
00:39:25,520 --> 00:39:29,080
'The one thing I miss
as I walk these hot streets

629
00:39:29,080 --> 00:39:31,640
<font color="

630
00:39:31,640 --> 00:39:34,840
'I'm told there's only
one place I might get one.'

631
00:39:34,840 --> 00:39:38,120
Gujarat is the only
dry state in the whole of India

632
00:39:38,120 --> 00:39:41,280
but if you're a foreigner,
you can get an exemption,

633
00:39:41,280 --> 00:39:44,960
and I'm told that I have to turn up
<font color="

634
00:39:44,960 --> 00:39:47,480
which I've got,
a little note of that,

635
00:39:47,480 --> 00:39:50,520
and also a certificate
of where I'm staying.

636
00:39:50,520 --> 00:39:54,040
So I'm going to see if I can
get a permit for the time I'm here,

637
00:39:54,040 --> 00:39:57,760
see whether the system of
exemptions really works.

638
00:39:57,760 --> 00:40:01,000
<font color="
aren't exactly convivial.'

639
00:40:01,000 --> 00:40:02,760
Give me your passport.

640
00:40:06,040 --> 00:40:11,680
He's writing down the place where
I shall be staying in...Mandvi.

641
00:40:23,560 --> 00:40:25,600
Getting thirsty.

642
00:40:46,720 --> 00:40:49,160
Still get a stamp in your passport.

643
00:40:49,160 --> 00:40:51,200
You will sign here. OK.

644
00:40:56,360 --> 00:41:00,040
<font color="
Where do I buy the liquor?

645
00:41:00,040 --> 00:41:02,680
Just here. Oh, right, I'm sorry.

646
00:41:02,680 --> 00:41:07,800
I didn't see that at all. OK. Hello.

647
00:41:07,800 --> 00:41:09,880
What do we think?

648
00:41:09,880 --> 00:41:12,160
Ten beers, one spirit?

649
00:41:12,160 --> 00:41:15,400
OK, fine. The spirit's for him.

650
00:41:18,040 --> 00:41:21,360
'Well, at last I have the beer,
<font color="

651
00:41:21,360 --> 00:41:25,640
'until I'm at my hotel,
and that's another 40 miles away.

652
00:41:31,160 --> 00:41:34,960
'Mandvi, coastal town,
45,000 inhabitants,

653
00:41:34,960 --> 00:41:37,560
'main business, shipbuilding.

654
00:41:37,560 --> 00:41:42,640
'Best-kept secret, resort hotel
right by the beach.'

655
00:41:44,160 --> 00:41:46,360
<font color="
Good afternoon.

656
00:41:46,360 --> 00:41:48,560
Good afternoon, thank you.

657
00:41:48,560 --> 00:41:52,120
Thanks very much,
I hope that will cover it.

658
00:41:52,120 --> 00:41:53,920
Thank you.

659
00:41:53,920 --> 00:41:57,120
Good. It's a dangerous ride.

660
00:41:57,120 --> 00:42:00,800
'The grandly-named
Mandvi Palace Beach Resort

661
00:42:00,800 --> 00:42:02,520
<font color="

662
00:42:02,520 --> 00:42:07,120
'but these are no ordinary tents,
these are five-star tents.

663
00:42:07,120 --> 00:42:10,520
'Possibly even seven-star tents.

664
00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:14,560
'Each one has a double bed,
en-suite bathroom and loo,

665
00:42:14,560 --> 00:42:16,240
'and air conditioning.

666
00:42:16,240 --> 00:42:18,320
'Oh, it's a tough life.'

667
00:42:18,320 --> 00:42:21,040
<font color="

668
00:42:21,040 --> 00:42:23,840
Cool, cool, lovely, cool.

669
00:42:26,160 --> 00:42:29,720
'And in the evening
with the sun well over the yardarm,

670
00:42:29,720 --> 00:42:33,200
'I finally get around to that beer.

671
00:42:41,800 --> 00:42:44,640
'Now, what exactly am I doing here?

672
00:42:49,440 --> 00:42:51,560
'This tented camp was first set up

673
00:42:51,560 --> 00:42:55,360
'by the Mahara of Kutch
<font color="

674
00:42:55,360 --> 00:42:58,280
'who'd come to visit
him at his country palace,

675
00:42:58,280 --> 00:43:00,680
'which is right next door
to the camp...

676
00:43:00,680 --> 00:43:02,640
'and open to the public.

677
00:43:05,280 --> 00:43:09,600
'Having never met a Mahara before,
I decide to pay him a visit.

678
00:43:28,080 --> 00:43:31,440
<font color="
I'm getting a bit twitchy,

679
00:43:31,440 --> 00:43:33,280
'but my gosh is it worth the walk!'

680
00:43:37,840 --> 00:43:40,360
Did your family have this
specially designed?

681
00:43:40,360 --> 00:43:43,200
'The Mahara, or to give him
his full title,

682
00:43:43,200 --> 00:43:46,280
'His Highness Sri Pragmalji
<font color="

683
00:43:46,280 --> 00:43:49,880
'couldn't have been more friendly
as he invites me in.

684
00:43:51,960 --> 00:43:55,160
'He is descended
from a very old Kutch family,

685
00:43:55,160 --> 00:43:59,280
'and talks nostalgically of the days
of an independent Kutch

686
00:43:59,280 --> 00:44:01,840
'before it was absorbed into Gujarat

687
00:44:01,840 --> 00:44:04,560
<font color="
regime.'

688
00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:11,640
Do you think that there's any
good reason why people shouldn't

689
00:44:06,680 --> 00:44:11,640
buy alcohol in Kutch or Gujarat?

690
00:44:11,640 --> 00:44:15,200
There is a slight problem here.

691
00:44:15,200 --> 00:44:17,640
Kutch is a part of
Gujarat state,

692
00:44:17,640 --> 00:44:22,080
<font color="
state ever in the history.

693
00:44:23,600 --> 00:44:28,360
And Gujarat state unfortunately
is Gandhian in the sense

694
00:44:28,360 --> 00:44:32,880
that they believe in prohibition
and things like that,

695
00:44:32,880 --> 00:44:37,280
which is not necessarily
very congenial to tourism.

696
00:44:37,280 --> 00:44:43,920
<font color="
a lot of people wasted their income

697
00:44:43,920 --> 00:44:47,240
on unnecessary things like alcohol,

698
00:44:47,240 --> 00:44:49,720
and which is not very healthy.

699
00:44:49,720 --> 00:44:52,560
But I'm sure, I am sure...

700
00:44:52,560 --> 00:44:55,080
I have had the pleasure in my life

701
00:44:55,080 --> 00:44:59,600
of meeting Mahatma Gandhi
<font color="

702
00:44:59,600 --> 00:45:01,440
I'm sure if he was alive today,

703
00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:07,840
he would have relented on that,
but I'm sure that in due course

704
00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:12,240
er...the change will come.

705
00:45:13,760 --> 00:45:16,640
'I wouldn't want anything
to change here,

706
00:45:16,640 --> 00:45:19,680
'not at sunset
<font color="

707
00:45:19,680 --> 00:45:23,800
'which is by the way

708
00:45:19,680 --> 00:45:23,800
owned by the Mahara, as is the sea.

709
00:45:23,800 --> 00:45:27,720
'Or at least it is at high tide
when the waves break onto his beach.

710
00:45:34,880 --> 00:45:39,960
'But now it's back to business.
Today is the day I must track
down the captain.'

711
00:45:39,960 --> 00:45:44,920
<font color="
I actually found out where he lives.
I'm going to see him.

712
00:45:44,920 --> 00:45:46,920
I think it's probably just as well

713
00:45:46,920 --> 00:45:50,480
I'm just going to have one last look
to see what he looks like.

714
00:45:52,120 --> 00:45:54,680
And this is where
I'm introduced to the captain.

715
00:45:59,880 --> 00:46:02,360
<font color="

716
00:46:02,360 --> 00:46:04,640
Very eager, that's right...

717
00:46:04,640 --> 00:46:08,480
'Very well, do you speak English?'
'Yes.' 'Good.

718
00:46:08,480 --> 00:46:10,160
'Where are you going to?

719
00:46:10,160 --> 00:46:11,800
'Are you going to Bombay?'

720
00:46:11,800 --> 00:46:13,440
'I'm going to Bombay, yes.'

721
00:46:13,440 --> 00:46:15,840
<font color="
'Yes.' 'To take me to Bombay.'

722
00:46:15,840 --> 00:46:17,720
'Yes. Why not? I take you to Bombay.'

723
00:46:17,720 --> 00:46:23,960
Yeah, that's fine, that's fine.
I think I should remember him.

724
00:46:29,920 --> 00:46:32,040
Well, I'm in the centre of Mandvi

725
00:46:32,040 --> 00:46:36,080
but it's not the sort of place that
<font color="

726
00:46:36,080 --> 00:46:38,320
so I know I've got to get to Saliya

727
00:46:38,320 --> 00:46:41,560
cos I was told that by Digant
in Bombay,

728
00:46:41,560 --> 00:46:44,920
so I'll just have to go and ask
for Saliya.

729
00:46:46,800 --> 00:46:48,840
The end of the journey begins.

730
00:46:50,320 --> 00:46:56,640
Excuse me, er...Sal...
Saliya Saliya

731
00:46:59,000 --> 00:47:00,720
<font color="

732
00:47:02,000 --> 00:47:04,760
Saliya

733
00:47:09,280 --> 00:47:10,800
Can you tell me...

734
00:47:13,240 --> 00:47:16,200
Where is Saliya?

735
00:47:16,200 --> 00:47:19,000
Saliya Where?

736
00:47:19,000 --> 00:47:21,440
Mandvi. Mandvi, yes.

737
00:47:21,440 --> 00:47:26,640
Mandvi, Saliya. It's over there?
THEY SPEAK NATIVE TONGUE

738
00:47:28,480 --> 00:47:29,880
Thank you. Aabhaar.

739
00:47:31,640 --> 00:47:36,720
<font color="
quite sure which it is, proves to
be on the other side of the creek.

740
00:47:36,720 --> 00:47:41,640
'It's served by a distinctly
no-frills ferry service.'

741
00:47:41,640 --> 00:47:43,240
Here I come.

742
00:47:44,760 --> 00:47:46,280
Ooh. Thank you.

743
00:48:12,800 --> 00:48:14,960
Hello, boys.

744
00:48:14,960 --> 00:48:16,520
I'm going to Saliya.

745
00:48:18,480 --> 00:48:20,120
<font color="

746
00:48:23,280 --> 00:48:28,000
'Once in Saliya, I've a chance to
show off my few words of Gujarati.

747
00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:33,400
Excuse me, sirs,
Captain Hassan Suliman

748
00:48:33,400 --> 00:48:36,080
What are you saying?

749
00:48:36,080 --> 00:48:37,960
Up here? I follow this?

750
00:48:37,960 --> 00:48:42,440
'As Digant Joshi had forecast,
here in Suliya everyone I talk to

751
00:48:42,440 --> 00:48:46,280
<font color="
or be related to him.'

752
00:48:46,280 --> 00:48:51,080
Excuse me, Captain Hassan Suliman,
OK? What are you saying?

753
00:48:53,000 --> 00:48:54,360
Thank you.

754
00:48:55,320 --> 00:48:56,680
Thanks.

755
00:49:01,680 --> 00:49:05,400
'All directions lead to

756
00:49:01,680 --> 00:49:05,400
the waterfront, and extraordinarily,

757
00:49:05,400 --> 00:49:09,800
'there's a dhow being built right
<font color="

758
00:49:15,040 --> 00:49:16,160
This is the one.

759
00:49:16,160 --> 00:49:22,520
'This won't be such a surprise for
the captain, he knows I'm in town,

760
00:49:16,160 --> 00:49:22,520
but it'll be a surprise for me.

761
00:49:22,520 --> 00:49:26,000
'I've no idea
how he or I will react.'

762
00:49:26,000 --> 00:49:28,160
Will it be him? Will it be me?

763
00:49:29,720 --> 00:49:32,120
<font color="

764
00:49:32,120 --> 00:49:35,200
How are you, Michael? It is you!
I recognise you.

765
00:49:35,200 --> 00:49:37,000
How are you, Michael?

766
00:49:37,000 --> 00:49:38,960
Oh, I'm very well, very good indeed.

767
00:49:38,960 --> 00:49:42,360
Yes. Come in, come in. Oh, yes.
<font color="

768
00:49:42,360 --> 00:49:46,000
OK, you come in. You've become
a big man, a very big man.

769
00:49:46,000 --> 00:49:47,960
And I've become a grey haired man.

770
00:49:47,960 --> 00:49:50,200
But you now very big now.
Very big, pah!

771
00:49:51,720 --> 00:49:56,560
'We catch up with each other
as he takes me on a walk
<font color="

772
00:49:56,560 --> 00:49:58,920
How big was Al Sharma?

773
00:50:01,840 --> 00:50:07,680
'Al Sharma was tiny compared
to some of the 2,000-ton dhows
they're building here now.

774
00:50:07,680 --> 00:50:10,600
'But still they build them
in the time-honoured way,

775
00:50:10,600 --> 00:50:15,320
'by hand and eye
<font color="

776
00:50:15,320 --> 00:50:19,120
This is good strong wood.

777
00:50:15,320 --> 00:50:19,120
Where's the wood from? Malaysia.

778
00:50:19,120 --> 00:50:21,840
Malaysia. Malaysian, ah.

779
00:50:21,840 --> 00:50:24,000
The wood is coming from Malaysia.

780
00:50:28,040 --> 00:50:29,720
You have now...

781
00:50:29,720 --> 00:50:32,480
Only one girls. One girl, yes. Yes.

782
00:50:32,480 --> 00:50:34,360
<font color="

783
00:50:34,360 --> 00:50:36,000
With Anwar? Yes, that's right.

784
00:50:36,000 --> 00:50:38,840
And the marriage was at a big, big
thing. Yeah, yeah.

785
00:50:38,840 --> 00:50:41,680
A lot of big party, big feast.

786
00:50:41,680 --> 00:50:43,360
Big feast! You pay.

787
00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:49,840
Yeah! Many times, it'll be
<font color="

788
00:50:49,840 --> 00:50:53,520
Yes, that's good, yes. Whoops.

789
00:50:53,520 --> 00:50:57,280
'Often in these last few days, I've
tried to visualise where the captain

790
00:50:57,280 --> 00:50:59,040
'and his crew might live,

791
00:50:59,040 --> 00:51:02,840
'and this location is
right out of central casting.

792
00:51:02,840 --> 00:51:04,520
'I ask the captain if he'd heard

793
00:51:04,520 --> 00:51:06,600
<font color="
we made together.'

794
00:51:06,600 --> 00:51:08,200
So did people...

795
00:51:08,200 --> 00:51:12,840
All over the world,
you know the BBC World Service?

796
00:51:12,840 --> 00:51:15,360
Yes, BBC World Service.

797
00:51:15,360 --> 00:51:18,040
Famous in the world.
And what do your friends say?

798
00:51:18,040 --> 00:51:19,920
<font color="

799
00:51:19,920 --> 00:51:22,600
Like it, I like it. Good. Very good.

800
00:51:22,600 --> 00:51:25,280
20 years from now,
another 20 years. Yeah.

801
00:51:25,280 --> 00:51:28,160
We maybe see each other again.
Yeah.

802
00:51:28,160 --> 00:51:31,520
<font color="
you'll have to push me. OK.

803
00:51:34,720 --> 00:51:39,480
How many years after,
you come next time to Mandvi?

804
00:51:39,480 --> 00:51:41,440
Oh, I don't know.

805
00:51:41,440 --> 00:51:43,560
I don't know. I have to ask my wife.

806
00:51:47,400 --> 00:51:50,640
'Later in the day when I come
back to the captain's house,

807
00:51:50,640 --> 00:51:53,840
<font color="
and Hassan, in turn,

808
00:51:53,840 --> 00:51:57,960
'brings together some old faces
from Al Sharma's crew.'

809
00:51:57,960 --> 00:52:00,000
Hi, thank you. Thank you.

810
00:52:03,920 --> 00:52:06,520
I might just have to... Oh, no disc.

811
00:52:06,520 --> 00:52:10,240
'We gather round, the chief
engineer, the second engineer,

812
00:52:10,240 --> 00:52:14,360
<font color="

813
00:52:10,240 --> 00:52:14,360
to the captain's daughter

814
00:52:14,360 --> 00:52:18,640
'and father of three boys,
and of course the captain himself.'

815
00:52:18,640 --> 00:52:21,040
You see, I have to wear glasses now.

816
00:52:21,040 --> 00:52:24,480
Yeah. When I last saw you,
I could see very, very clearly

817
00:52:24,480 --> 00:52:28,040
<font color="
Where are you? There you are.

818
00:52:28,040 --> 00:52:29,800
Oh, there we go, look.

819
00:52:29,800 --> 00:52:34,200
'I board our dhow, Al Sharma,
which means candlelight in Arabic.'

820
00:52:35,720 --> 00:52:40,320
Look at me, look at my silly socks
and the funny hat.

821
00:52:40,320 --> 00:52:42,520
There you are.

822
00:52:42,520 --> 00:52:47,040
<font color="
is scrupulously clean,
he assures me...'

823
00:52:47,040 --> 00:52:49,400
Yes, there you are.

824
00:52:49,400 --> 00:52:51,840
Anwar was a very small boy there.
Yes, yes, yes.

825
00:52:51,840 --> 00:52:53,840
We've got some more here of Anwar.

826
00:52:53,840 --> 00:52:56,040
Now he's captain, big captain.

827
00:52:56,040 --> 00:53:00,200
<font color="
For 14 years. Fantastic.

828
00:53:00,200 --> 00:53:03,360
There we are, that's right,
going out.

829
00:53:06,280 --> 00:53:08,600
HE LAUGHS

830
00:53:08,600 --> 00:53:13,560
Sad. Yeah. Sad to see the ship.
Sad that it's no longer around.

831
00:53:13,560 --> 00:53:15,840
<font color="

832
00:53:15,840 --> 00:53:18,840
THEY SPEAK NATIVE LANGUAGE

833
00:53:15,840 --> 00:53:18,840
Dead. He's dead?

834
00:53:18,840 --> 00:53:23,680
Kasim. Kasim, yes, expired.
Yes, expiry.

835
00:53:23,680 --> 00:53:28,160
Is this Dejilanti? Yes, ex-man.

836
00:53:28,160 --> 00:53:32,080
Chief Officer, dead. Ah, right,
<font color="

837
00:53:32,080 --> 00:53:33,840
He for four years dead.

838
00:53:33,840 --> 00:53:38,680
Oh, right, yeah.
Salimamman, Ramsey-mamman, duck is…

839
00:53:38,680 --> 00:53:43,680
Kasim. Three men is dead. Oh, yes.

840
00:53:43,680 --> 00:53:46,160
THEY LAUGH

841
00:53:46,160 --> 00:53:50,720
'The plumbing is basic, they favour
the hole in the barrel system.'

842
00:53:50,720 --> 00:53:53,840
<font color="

843
00:53:53,840 --> 00:53:58,400
'The boat is scorchingly hot
by day and suicidal at night,

844
00:53:58,400 --> 00:54:01,760
'but once installed one enjoys
direct contact with nature.

845
00:54:01,760 --> 00:54:06,440
'This is rather a shock
and causes my bowels to lock
solid for three days'.

846
00:54:06,440 --> 00:54:09,000
Oh, yes.

847
00:54:06,440 --> 00:54:09,000
<font color="

848
00:54:09,000 --> 00:54:12,160
I didn't know how to use that
at first.

849
00:54:13,720 --> 00:54:15,720
Ah, there you go!

850
00:54:15,720 --> 00:54:18,000
It was very useful.
Look at that there.

851
00:54:18,000 --> 00:54:19,960
Look at the chillies, yeah.

852
00:54:23,480 --> 00:54:29,200
'While Ali Mamoun,
the cook, produces three meals
<font color="

853
00:54:29,200 --> 00:54:32,800
He's making chapattis.

854
00:54:29,200 --> 00:54:32,800
THEY LAUGH

855
00:54:32,800 --> 00:54:36,840
He's making so many chapattis,
look at that. Expecting company?

856
00:54:36,840 --> 00:54:40,360
There must be 40 chapattis there.
Stop it! Stop making chapattis!

857
00:54:47,000 --> 00:54:48,880
Very good food there, very nice.

858
00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:51,280
<font color="
you know kedgeree?

859
00:54:51,280 --> 00:54:54,400
Yes, that's right. Kedgeree.

860
00:54:54,400 --> 00:54:56,520
Mohammed is coming.
Mohammed Suliman.

861
00:54:57,960 --> 00:55:00,720
'Mohammed was Al Sharma's bosun.

862
00:55:00,720 --> 00:55:03,520
'He's the captain's
brother and Anwar's father.

863
00:55:03,520 --> 00:55:06,640
'Both of them had told me
<font color="

864
00:55:06,640 --> 00:55:09,760
'so I'm doubly happy
that he's come to join us.

865
00:55:15,360 --> 00:55:18,240
'He does seem to perk up a bit
when he sees himself on film.

866
00:55:18,240 --> 00:55:23,160
Yes, good crewman and all together.

867
00:55:23,160 --> 00:55:25,640
Here is Kasim listening
to the music,

868
00:55:25,640 --> 00:55:27,880
<font color="

869
00:55:27,880 --> 00:55:33,640
LAUGHTER

870
00:55:37,680 --> 00:55:41,960
Now this is putting the sail up,

871
00:55:37,680 --> 00:55:41,960
I remember.

872
00:55:41,960 --> 00:55:44,240
SINGING

873
00:55:47,760 --> 00:55:49,960
For the open sail. Yes.
Pull up there.

874
00:55:49,960 --> 00:55:52,640
Yes, and you sang your song.

875
00:56:05,840 --> 00:56:10,600
THEY SPEAK IN NATIVE LANGUAGE
<font color="

876
00:56:13,520 --> 00:56:15,600
Yes, very sweet.

877
00:56:15,600 --> 00:56:19,280
And strong. Now Anwar is captain.
I know, I know.

878
00:56:21,280 --> 00:56:23,400
But he's not changed.

879
00:56:23,400 --> 00:56:25,520
'Very good.'

880
00:56:25,520 --> 00:56:29,640
There's me saying, "Very good."
Fat lot you did, Palin.

881
00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:32,120
<font color="

882
00:56:32,120 --> 00:56:36,640
'So we sit and watch ourselves
when we were 20 years younger,

883
00:56:36,640 --> 00:56:40,200
'until we come to the final sequence
of the voyage

884
00:56:40,200 --> 00:56:43,680
'where I bid them all farewell
for the last time.'

885
00:56:43,680 --> 00:56:47,160
Ah, yes!

886
00:56:43,680 --> 00:56:47,160
LAUGHTER

887
00:56:49,160 --> 00:56:50,880
<font color="

888
00:56:58,520 --> 00:57:01,320
'Bye bye.' Ah, look.

889
00:57:01,320 --> 00:57:03,200
Goodbye. There you are, goodbye.

890
00:57:03,200 --> 00:57:06,320
'I'm very sad to leave
Captain Hassan and his crew.

891
00:57:06,320 --> 00:57:08,960
'We entrusted our lives
to these people,

892
00:57:08,960 --> 00:57:10,240
'and they responded

893
00:57:10,240 --> 00:57:13,160
<font color="
and openness.

894
00:57:13,160 --> 00:57:17,320
'I know I shall never again on
this journey enjoy such simple and

895
00:57:17,320 --> 00:57:22,040
'straightforward friendships as I've
made with the crew of the Al Sharma.

896
00:57:22,040 --> 00:57:25,800
'At this moment,
it's almost impossible to accept

897
00:57:25,800 --> 00:57:28,280
<font color="

898
00:57:28,280 --> 00:57:31,600
There we are. I didn't believe
I would never see you again,

899
00:57:31,600 --> 00:57:34,320
and it's just as well,
because I've seen you again!

900
00:57:34,320 --> 00:57:36,800
Excellent, there you go.

901
00:57:36,800 --> 00:57:40,680
Well, now we do another
programme together. Other one?

902
00:57:40,680 --> 00:57:42,800
<font color="

903
00:57:42,800 --> 00:57:45,560
We'll do it all over again. OK. OK?

904
00:57:47,520 --> 00:57:51,040
'Then after tea and
all manner of hospitality,

905
00:57:51,040 --> 00:57:53,440
'it's time for another farewell.'

906
00:57:53,440 --> 00:57:56,560
Thank you so much,
it's great to see you again.

907
00:57:56,560 --> 00:57:59,800
<font color="
you thinking you come here?

908
00:57:59,800 --> 00:58:02,320
Shall we leave it another 20?
More 20?

909
00:58:02,320 --> 00:58:04,000
Real mature men. OK, sir.

910
00:58:04,000 --> 00:58:06,120
Thank you,
good luck to all your family.

911
00:58:06,120 --> 00:58:09,560
It was lovely to meet them all,
<font color="

912
00:58:09,560 --> 00:58:12,120
OK, goodbye. See you soon.

913
00:58:12,120 --> 00:58:13,960
20 years will go by very quickly.

914
00:58:13,960 --> 00:58:16,000
OK, sir, bye, goodbye. Goodbye.

915
00:58:16,000 --> 00:58:19,560
OK. Goodbye, sir.

916
00:58:19,560 --> 00:58:21,800
'Whatever plans Hassan and I
might make,

917
00:58:21,800 --> 00:58:24,520
<font color="
he and I know

918
00:58:24,520 --> 00:58:29,000
'that this time the chances are
we shall not see each other again.

919
00:58:29,000 --> 00:58:31,400
Goodbye, sir. Careful, please.

920
00:58:48,520 --> 00:58:51,560
Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

921
00:58:51,560 --> 00:58:54,600
Email subtitling@bbc.co.uk