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(wind howling)

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(lively music)

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- [Narrator] Our journey
begins at Seville,

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the capital of the Andalusia region.

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We then head south towards the coast

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and the ancient harbor city of Cadiz.

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From there, it's east to the
rocky peninsula of Gibraltar,

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before turning north up the Costa del Sol

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to the resort towns of
Marbella and then Fuengirola.

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Inland from the coast is the
hilltop village of Alora,

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with its whitewashed houses standing out

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against the arid landscape.

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From there, it's just a short disance

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to the spectacular rock
formations in the El Torcal Park.

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Seville is the artistic, cultural,

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and financial capital of southern Spain,

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and the country's fourth-largest city.

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It's also the capital of Andalusia,

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one of the 17 autonomous regions of Spain.

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Seville stands on a flat plain

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alongside the Guadalquivir River,

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and is only seven meters above sea level.

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The city is more than 2,000 years old,

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and its style has been influenced by

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the cultural legacy of its
conquering civilizations,

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from the Romans, who
called the place Hispalis,

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followed by the Moors, who
changed the name to Ishbiliyya,

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which in turn became Seville when the city

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was reconquered by Christian
forces during the 13th century.

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As a result, Seville retains
a distinct personality,

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and a large and well-preserved
historical center.

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And towering over the city is the Giralda,

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a bell tower converted
from a former minaret

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that stood by the mosque

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from the time of the Moors' occupation.

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It's one of the city's
most famous symbols.

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In 1401, the Seville cathedral was begun,

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and by the time of its
completion 150 years later

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was the largest Gothic
cathedral in the world.

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It was build to demonstrate
the city's new wealth,

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as Seville had become
a major trading center

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by the 14th century.

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According to oral tradition,

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the decision of the cathedral chapter was,

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"Let a church so beautiful and so great

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"that those who see it built
will think we were mad."

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Some of the elements
from the original mosque

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were utilized in the new cathedral,

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and it is the final
resting place of perhaps

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the best-known explorer
the world has ever known,

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Christopher Columbus.

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(choir singing in foreign language)

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To the south of the city
is the Maria Luisa Park,

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created for a type of
world fair in the 1920s.

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The park has boulevards and
gardens, palms and orange trees,

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rows of flowerbeds and hidden bowers,

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along with ponds and pavilions.

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It's a cool place to be on a hot day.

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At the same time as the
gardens were created,

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the Plaza de Espana was built

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as a centerpiece of the exhibition.

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It is now mainly government offices.

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The design is a landmark example

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of the Spanish Renaissance Revival style.

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The building is also
featured in many films,

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most notably "Lawrence of Arabia"

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and "Star Wars: Episode II."

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(mellow music)

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20 years earlier, the
Alcazar Gardens were created

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alongside the old palace, which was begun

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back in the 10th century
and largely rebuilt

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in the 14th century by King Pedro I.

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An Islamic arched door stands
in the English gardens,

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which were inspired by
naturalistic designs

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from the 18th century.

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There is also a Garden of
the Poets, amongst others.

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All these gardens offer
the people of Seville

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and all those that visit them
a haven of peace and quiet

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as well as some welcome shade.

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There is not much shade
at the Rio Tinto Mines,

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30 miles north of the city.

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The landscape looks like an alien world,

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as copper, silver,
gold, and other minerals

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have been extracted here
for over 5,000 years.

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The ancient mines were
rediscovered in the 16th century,

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and then, in 1873, sold
to a British consortium,

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who founded the Rio Tinto Company.

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(haunting music)

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The Quarter Italia was once the largest

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open-pit mine in Europe,
and over 350 meters deep.

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At its peak, 2,000 workers were employed,

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and the mine operated until 1992.

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Today, the hole is flooded
up to the 16th ring.

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One of the problems with
mining on this scale

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is the landscape which is
left scarred and barren.

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Due to environmental pressure,

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many mining companies
around the world today

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are obliged to leave the
site as it was found.

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In contrast to the Rio Tinto mines

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is a large power complex which simply

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uses the power of the sun
to create electricity.

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It makes a dramatic sight
across the flat landscape.

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(haunting music)

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This is the new PS20 solar power plant,

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a solar thermal energy unit
near Sanlucar la Mayor,

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15 miles west of Seville.

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It is one of the world's most
powerful solar complexes,

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producing 20 megawatts of electricity.

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1255 mirrored heliostats
reflect the solar radiation

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onto the receiver at the top
of the 165-meter-high tower.

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The massive heat generated
by the concentration of light

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creates steam, which drives turbines,

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which in turn creates electricity.

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When the whole plant is finally completed,

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it will produce around
300 megawatts of power,

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which is enough for the city of Seville.

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This solar power station will prevent

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harmful emissions of
more than 600,000 tons

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of CO2 a year had it
been from a conventional

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fossil fuel-based power plant.

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On the south coast is the oldest city

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on the Iberian Peninsula,
which was probably founded

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over 300,000 years ago by the Phoenicians

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as a small trading post, Cadiz.

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(gentle music)

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In its time, the city has been occupied

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by the Greeks, Carthaginians,
Romans, Visigoths,

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Moors, and Spanish, who
finally reclaimed it

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once and for all back in the 13th century.

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Cadiz Bay forms a vast natural harbor,

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and for centuries it has
been a major naval port.

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It was also a starting point for Spain's

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great Age of Exploration
during the 15th century,

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and Christopher Columbus set out from here

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on two of his voyages.

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The city became the main port
for Spain's treasure fleet,

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which brought back
gold, silver, and jewels

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from the New World.

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This also brought danger, and in 1587,

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an English fleet, under the
command of Sir Francis Drake,

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occupied the harbor for three days

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and destroyed over 30 ships.

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The raid became known as The Singeing of

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the King of Spain's Beard,
and for the next 100 years,

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Cadiz suffered several
more attacks by the English

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in their fight with Spain.

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As a result, the city was fortified

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with a new gateway and city walls.

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Tourism has been an important part

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of the city's economy for over 100 years,

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and situated between two old forts

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is the city's most famous
beach, La Playa de la Caleta.

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The 19th-century esplanade
and beach pavilion

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make it a popular place for
visitors and residents alike.

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The few squares in Cadiz
offer the only open spaces,

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as the narrow streets and houses

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fill all the available space.

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And from high above the city,

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there is an interesting mosaic pattern

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between the red and white roofs

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and the straight lines of the streets.

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The most prominent
building is the cathedral,

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which was built in the 18th century,

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replacing a predecessor
which had burnt down.

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(upbeat music)

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Another peninsula can be
found 50 miles to the east,

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and one that has been a source of friction

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between Spain and Britain for
over 300 years, Gibraltar.

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(mellow music)

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In 1704, Britain captured the rock

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during the War of the Spanish Succession.

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It ended with the Treaty
of Utrecht in 1713,

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when Spain granted Gibraltar
to the British in perpetuity.

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Since then, Spain has
twice tried to take it back

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with force, in 1727 and 1779, and failed.

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In more recent times, Spain
and Britain have tried

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to solve the issue by
suggesting joint sovereignty,

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but in a 2002 poll,
99% of the local people

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rejected the proposal, voting
to remain part of Britain.

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Over the years, Spain has
tried several different tactics

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to force the issue.

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In 1969, Spain completely
closed the border

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and severed all communication.

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Spanish airspace was restricted,

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so airplanes had to make a
very tight turn when landing.

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In the 1980s, the border
and airspace was reopened

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as part of Spain's entry
into the European Union.

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For the Spanish, the issue of sovereignty

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is a major obstacle in their
relations with Britain.

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For Britain, the importance of Gibraltar

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lay in its strategic position as a port

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for its Mediterranean fleet.

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It has been a key naval
base for 300 years,

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and in that time, the population has risen

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to roughly 30,000 people.

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And most of the population
live in the town area

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on the west side of the peninsula.

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25 years ago, 60% of Gibraltar's economy

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was dominated by the naval dockyard,

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but today it's only 7%.

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Instead, tourism, shipping,
financial services,

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and internet gambling have taken over.

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Low taxes have helped attract business

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to this British dependency.

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Gibraltar is also one of
the most densely populated

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territories in the world,

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with around 4,000 people
per square kilometer.

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The growing demand for space
has led to land reclamation,

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which now accounts for about
1/10 of the total area.

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Dominating everything is the rock itself,

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a massive, monolithic promontory.

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From the top, it is possible
to see the coast of Africa,

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13 miles away.

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And on the summit is the O'Hara Battery,

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named after one of
Gibraltar's governor-generals.

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The original gun was a
six-inch breech loader,

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which was replaced by
a 9.2-inch one in 1901.

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This one gun effectively
closed the entrance

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to the Mediterranean for any enemy ship.

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In today's more friendly times,

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the rock provides shelter
for passing ships,

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and a place to take on
provisions and fuel.

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The only drama takes place

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when one vessel collides with another.

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This happened in 2007, when a
Panamanian bulk carrier ship,

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New Flame, ran into the
stern of a passing vessel

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and began to take on water.

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Cargo and fuel oil were salvaged,

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and the ship will slowly
be broken up for scrap.

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Gibraltar has given its name to the saying

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"solid as the rock of Gibraltar,"

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meaning something which is immovable.

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The saying also refers to
the rock's invincibility,

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as it has resisted sieges and
attacks throughout the ages,

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and in the Second World
War, this tiny peninsula

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on the southern tip of
western Europe remained

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under Allied control
throughout the whole war,

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and played a vital part
in defeating Nazi Germany.

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Heading north up the coast is one of

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the most popular holiday parts of Spain

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for hundreds of thousands
of people across Europe,

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the Costa del Sol,
meaning coast of the sun.

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One of the largest private resorts

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in the area is Sotogrande,

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which encompasses roughly
20 square kilometers,

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including a large marina
and hundreds of apartments.

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(mellow music)

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The resort is also well-known
as an architectural showcase

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on the Costa del Sol for
all the differing styles

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of luxury villas, from
traditional Andalusian

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to more modern designs.

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Sotogrande is famous for
its four golf courses.

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This one is the Club Real de Golf,

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which was founded in 1964 and voted fifth

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in the top 10 courses of Europe,

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and in the top 100 in the world.

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"Golf Magazine" voted the
course's seventh and 12th holes

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two of the best in the world.

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Due to its popularity,
this part of the coastline

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is also one of the most developed,

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with apartment blocks, hotels, and villas

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of all shapes and sizes.

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Prices range from millions of dollars

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for a luxurious beachside
house to around $60,000

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for a one-bedroom apartment
inland from the sea.

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The area is a popular place for
people to retire to as well,

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because the weather is
still warm in the winter,

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and many of the apartment blocks

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are resort centers in their own right,

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with private swimming pools and gardens

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for the residents to enjoy.

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One of the best-known
resorts is Puerto Banus.

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It was built in the 1970s
by a local developer

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as a luxury marina and shopping
complex for the super-rich,

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with hotels and apartments
behind the harbor.

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The marina can hold over 900 boats,

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including the large private motor yachts

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of some of the world's
richest individuals,

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including the members of
several royal households

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as well as world-famous
actors and rock stars.

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For those without a large yacht,

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people can get out into the Mediterranean

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to have fun by hiring speedboats,

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or perhaps paying for a
trip on a larger yacht

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for a great day out cruising
up and down the coast.

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(mellow music)

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Marbella is one of the most important

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as well as popular resorts
on the Costa del Sol.

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Although the town appears
to be very modern,

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it actually dates back to the Romans,

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and the name Marbella derives
from the time of the Moors,

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when it was called Marbil-la.

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In the center of the
town is the old village,

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and in the late 1940s, it was discovered

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by a wealthy German prince.

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He was so impressed with the place

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that he decided to buy up land

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and market Marbella as
a tourist destination.

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It was soon to prove a
highly successful venture,

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as Marbella attracted the rich and famous

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from across Europe, and in the 1980s,

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a vast building program began,

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with new apartment blocks
spreading along the coast.

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And much of the coastline
has now been built on

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with new resorts.

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The lighthouse on the
point at Faro de Calaburra

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overlooks the large town
of Fuengirola to the north.

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It was only in the 1960s that the town

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expanded into the resort seen today.

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Before that, Fuengirola was for centuries

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a small fishing and trading harbor.

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The town's early history may stretch back

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to the Phoenicians, who were
here even before the Romans.

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In the Middle Ages, when the small town

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was under Moorish occupation
and known as Suel,

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the whole place was set on
fire and burnt to the ground.

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The population was moved out,

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and the town became a mound of ruins.

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Only the castle was left standing,

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which had been built
back in the 10th century,

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when the Moors had invaded Spain.

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In 1485, the settlement was
reconquered by Christian forces,

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and an attempt to repopulate it failed.

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It was 300 years later that
a small village and harbor

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began to emerge in the
shadow of the castle

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and would form the
beginning of Fuengirola.

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Heading inland, the landscape becomes

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more mountainous and more arid.

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It appears almost barren in comparison

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to the nearby populated coast.

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Small whitewashed villages stand
out in the dry countryside.

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This is Alora, which has a history

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stretching back to the Phoenicians,

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who probably built the first castle

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on the hill overlooking the village.

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It was rebuilt by the Romans,
destroyed by the Visigoths,

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and then rebuilt again by the Moors.

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It was finally recaptured
by Spanish forces in 1485.

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In the late 17th century,
Alora was home for five years

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to Migeul de Cervantes, the
writer of "Don Quixote,"

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which many experts consider
the first modern novel

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00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:24,230
and a classic of Western literature.

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10 miles to the north
is one of Andalusia's

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geographical wonders,
the gorges at El Chorro.

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These immense chasma are
about 200 meters deep,

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00:21:42,290 --> 00:21:45,210
and in places only 30 meters wide.

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(haunting music)

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Alongside the railway line is a walkway

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with a bridge across the first gorge.

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It was built in the early 1900s,

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and is now closed, as several
sections have collapsed.

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In between the gorges is an
open area named La Jolla.

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The region is home to some of
Spain's best-known raptors,

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golden eagles, griffin
vultures, peregrine falcons,

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and Monelli's eagles.

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00:22:19,490 --> 00:22:22,220
The chasms have been created
over thousands of years

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by water being forced between the rocks

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when the three rivers which flowed

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through the gorges were in flood.

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00:22:29,600 --> 00:22:32,340
Today it is a more gentle place,

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00:22:32,340 --> 00:22:36,310
as the Rio Guadalhorce has
been dammed in three places

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for hydroelectric power,
and so the flow of water

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can now be regulated.

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10 miles to the west is
our final destination,

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and one of the most impressive
limestone landscapes

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in Europe, the Torcal Park Nature Reserve.

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(gentle music)

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100 million years ago, this
whole area was under the sea.

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Violent movement of the Earth's crust then

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gradually forced it up
into hills and mountains,

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reaching 1300 meters.

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During this geological process,

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the limestone still kept its
layered horizontal formation,

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00:23:23,107 --> 00:23:25,517
and the rain, over billions of years,

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has gradually chiseled away at it

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00:23:27,676 --> 00:23:30,296
and created these incredible shapes.

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The process is known as karstification.

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Many of the formations
have begun to resemble

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everyday objects, and
been named accordingly.

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There is a sphinx, jug, hat,
and a camel amongst them.

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In the spring there is an
impressive array of wild flowers,

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and the area also supports
a number of animal species,

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including the Montpellier
snake and eyed lizard,

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00:24:00,780 --> 00:24:02,250
as well as griffin vultures and

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00:24:02,245 --> 00:24:04,825
the Andalusian mountain goat.

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00:24:07,961 --> 00:24:10,711
(sweeping music)

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During the millions of years of erosion,

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cracks and faults appeared,

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producing the alleys
between the formations.

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00:24:32,460 --> 00:24:35,330
These make useful paths
for the many visitors

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00:24:35,330 --> 00:24:38,400
who come to walk amongst
these strange shapes.

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Care must be taken in the summer,

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00:24:58,660 --> 00:25:00,560
when the heat in this harsh landscape

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00:25:00,560 --> 00:25:03,090
can be extremely dangerous,

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00:25:03,090 --> 00:25:05,710
and a good supply of water is essential.

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00:25:08,570 --> 00:25:11,360
The new visitor center
is a good starting point,

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and people can choose
between three different

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00:25:13,610 --> 00:25:15,810
color-coded walks of various lengths

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00:25:15,807 --> 00:25:19,187
through the El Torcal Park.

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00:25:19,193 --> 00:25:22,753
And attached to the center is a walkway,

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00:25:22,750 --> 00:25:25,230
jutting out over the escarpment,

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00:25:25,230 --> 00:25:27,670
for a dramatic view to the south.

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00:25:30,840 --> 00:25:33,580
And a perfect place to end this journey.

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(stately music)