1 00:00:10,643 --> 00:00:12,245 So we're coming down through Calabria, 2 00:00:12,345 --> 00:00:14,581 on a train obviously. 3 00:00:14,681 --> 00:00:16,082 We're going to Sicily, 4 00:00:16,182 --> 00:00:19,586 the biggest island in the Mediterranean. 5 00:00:19,686 --> 00:00:21,254 Because there is no bridge, 6 00:00:21,354 --> 00:00:25,592 they take the train and put it onto a ferry. 7 00:00:25,692 --> 00:00:28,261 Oh, we're getting on it! Well, that's exciting. 8 00:00:28,361 --> 00:00:33,199 And you can see the tracks here, where the other cars will go. 9 00:00:33,266 --> 00:00:35,435 I love trains, but I like the idea 10 00:00:35,535 --> 00:00:38,271 that the train goes on a boat. 11 00:00:38,371 --> 00:00:39,939 I think we should get a car on top of this 12 00:00:40,040 --> 00:00:41,775 and be in a car on a train on a boat 13 00:00:41,875 --> 00:00:43,910 and then have a horse on top of the car. 14 00:00:45,779 --> 00:00:47,213 I'm Stanley Tucci. 15 00:00:47,280 --> 00:00:49,516 I'm fascinated by my Italian heritage, 16 00:00:49,582 --> 00:00:52,852 and I'm traveling across Italy to discover how the food 17 00:00:52,919 --> 00:00:55,422 in each of this country's 20 regions 18 00:00:55,522 --> 00:00:58,425 is as unique as the people and their past. 19 00:01:02,028 --> 00:01:06,366 Sicily is a mythical land of contrasts - 20 00:01:06,433 --> 00:01:09,269 fire and water, 21 00:01:09,369 --> 00:01:11,971 dry and fertile, 22 00:01:12,072 --> 00:01:13,740 refined 23 00:01:13,807 --> 00:01:15,308 That's very French. 24 00:01:15,408 --> 00:01:16,910 and rough. 25 00:01:24,150 --> 00:01:26,820 How did one of the poorest regions in Europe 26 00:01:26,920 --> 00:01:29,122 -What do you think? -I love it. 27 00:01:29,222 --> 00:01:32,892 create the richest of cuisines? 28 00:01:32,959 --> 00:01:34,594 That's so good. 29 00:01:34,661 --> 00:01:36,062 Get ready 30 00:01:36,129 --> 00:01:38,798 This is delicious. I want to take a bath in it. 31 00:01:38,898 --> 00:01:39,833 every mouthful here 32 00:01:39,933 --> 00:01:41,000 Mmm, that's wonderful. 33 00:01:41,101 --> 00:01:42,836 is an eruption of flavor. 34 00:01:42,936 --> 00:01:46,840 My god that's so good. Mmm, my god! 35 00:01:59,652 --> 00:02:01,454 Before I arrive in Sicily, 36 00:02:01,521 --> 00:02:03,189 there's one delicious food ritual 37 00:02:03,289 --> 00:02:04,924 that I have to experience. 38 00:02:04,991 --> 00:02:07,093 It's a tradition to eat these 39 00:02:07,160 --> 00:02:13,333 while you're a boat passing this statue of the Madonna. 40 00:02:13,433 --> 00:02:15,101 These are arancini. 41 00:02:15,168 --> 00:02:16,202 Look at that. 42 00:02:16,302 --> 00:02:17,937 These beautiful little cones 43 00:02:18,004 --> 00:02:22,008 are rice with saffron, peas, meat. 44 00:02:22,108 --> 00:02:25,712 The story goes that the Arabs brought these to Sicily 45 00:02:25,812 --> 00:02:27,280 in the 9th Century. 46 00:02:27,347 --> 00:02:30,150 Hand-rolled rice, with a meat filling. 47 00:02:30,216 --> 00:02:31,885 Breaded and fried. 48 00:02:31,985 --> 00:02:33,453 That's good. 49 00:02:33,520 --> 00:02:35,855 The taste of arancini, I am told, 50 00:02:35,955 --> 00:02:38,992 is the taste of home for all Sicilians. 51 00:02:43,796 --> 00:02:47,700 Just a few miles off the toe of the boot of Italy 52 00:02:47,800 --> 00:02:49,903 lies the island of Sicily 53 00:02:50,003 --> 00:02:51,838 it's southernmost region, 54 00:02:51,905 --> 00:02:54,140 and with volcanic soil so fertile, 55 00:02:54,207 --> 00:02:57,477 it's nickname is God's Kitchen. 56 00:02:57,544 --> 00:03:03,183 But Sicily is also said to be home to the gates of Hell. 57 00:03:03,249 --> 00:03:06,553 Impoverished for centuries, conquered by everyone 58 00:03:06,653 --> 00:03:08,922 from the Arabs to the French, 59 00:03:09,022 --> 00:03:11,991 and haunted by its mafia connections. 60 00:03:12,058 --> 00:03:14,227 The locals have learned to make the most 61 00:03:14,327 --> 00:03:16,429 of what they've got. 62 00:03:16,529 --> 00:03:18,731 In this fiercely traditional region, 63 00:03:18,831 --> 00:03:20,500 things are changing. 64 00:03:20,567 --> 00:03:24,003 And I want to discover the effect it's having on the food. 65 00:03:30,443 --> 00:03:32,011 Classic Sicilian cuisine 66 00:03:32,078 --> 00:03:34,948 is harnessing the power of simple ingredients 67 00:03:35,048 --> 00:03:36,950 and allowing them to shine. 68 00:03:37,050 --> 00:03:39,953 Don't mistake uncomplicated for bland. 69 00:03:40,053 --> 00:03:42,422 Seafood, vegetables and pasta 70 00:03:42,522 --> 00:03:45,091 only need a little local olive oil 71 00:03:45,191 --> 00:03:48,861 and salt to reveal their sublime qualities. 72 00:03:50,396 --> 00:03:52,632 Just outside the capital, Palermo, 73 00:03:52,732 --> 00:03:55,068 in a seaside town called Bagheria, 74 00:03:55,134 --> 00:03:56,803 an amazing self-taught chef 75 00:03:56,903 --> 00:03:59,739 has built his reputation on the basics. 76 00:04:07,313 --> 00:04:09,315 -[TUCCI] Ciao. -[TONY] Ciao. 77 00:04:09,415 --> 00:04:11,484 Tony Lo Coco left school at 17 78 00:04:11,584 --> 00:04:15,321 to work with his dad making stained glass for churches 79 00:04:15,421 --> 00:04:17,657 but he fell in love with food 80 00:04:17,757 --> 00:04:22,395 and now owns a Michelin-starred restaurant called I Pupi. 81 00:04:30,136 --> 00:04:33,306 Tony is cooking his version of the Sicilian classic, 82 00:04:33,406 --> 00:04:35,842 spaghetti alla bottarga. 83 00:04:42,515 --> 00:04:44,584 Oh I see, it creates a little texture to it 84 00:04:44,651 --> 00:04:46,686 which helps the sauce stick to it 85 00:04:46,786 --> 00:04:49,622 which ends up giving everything a better flavor. 86 00:04:49,689 --> 00:04:52,692 What could be more Italian than spaghetti, right? 87 00:04:52,792 --> 00:04:54,661 Well, wrong. 88 00:04:54,761 --> 00:04:57,797 It's said that spaghetti was invented by the Arabs 89 00:04:57,864 --> 00:05:00,533 who brought it to Sicily a thousand years ago. 90 00:05:00,633 --> 00:05:02,035 But the Arabs ate their spaghetti 91 00:05:02,135 --> 00:05:03,703 with raisins and cinnamon. 92 00:05:03,803 --> 00:05:06,372 very different to the savory dishes of today, 93 00:05:06,472 --> 00:05:07,607 like this one. 94 00:05:16,282 --> 00:05:20,219 Bottarga is a solid block of dried fish eggs, 95 00:05:20,320 --> 00:05:21,721 tuna in this case. 96 00:05:21,821 --> 00:05:24,390 Tony is so proud of his signature dish 97 00:05:24,490 --> 00:05:26,859 he has named it Spaghettony. 98 00:05:29,295 --> 00:05:33,499 Garam. This is like what the Romans used to make. 99 00:05:33,566 --> 00:05:36,235 Right. This is the secret to the flavor. 100 00:05:36,336 --> 00:05:38,638 This gives it that intensity. 101 00:05:38,705 --> 00:05:42,241 Garam was sort of like Roman ketchup 102 00:05:42,342 --> 00:05:45,178 sort of, maybe. 103 00:05:45,244 --> 00:05:49,515 Tony then adds lemon zest, Sicilian of course, 104 00:05:49,582 --> 00:05:51,851 and an avalanche of bottarga. 105 00:05:56,489 --> 00:05:58,157 On top he adds salted, 106 00:05:58,224 --> 00:06:00,927 dehydrated fried capers for crunch 107 00:06:01,027 --> 00:06:03,830 and dried breadcrumbs ground down with anchovies, 108 00:06:03,896 --> 00:06:06,999 which is called mullica. 109 00:06:07,066 --> 00:06:09,435 This is the mullica that people used to use who lived by the sea 110 00:06:09,535 --> 00:06:11,270 because they didn't have cheese, 111 00:06:11,371 --> 00:06:14,707 this in essence took the place of cheese. 112 00:06:14,774 --> 00:06:17,243 [TONY] Voila. [TUCCI] Come on. 113 00:06:17,343 --> 00:06:18,745 -[TONY] Oh! -[TUCCI] Oh no! 114 00:06:20,880 --> 00:06:23,349 -[TONY] [LAUGHS] -[TUCCI] That's beautiful. 115 00:06:27,553 --> 00:06:28,955 [TUCCI] Goddamn it, mm! 116 00:06:31,891 --> 00:06:34,060 [TUCCI] Thank you. That's so good. 117 00:06:34,127 --> 00:06:37,930 My god that's so good. Mmm, my god! 118 00:06:41,801 --> 00:06:43,736 The core, the soul of your restaurant, 119 00:06:43,803 --> 00:06:47,373 is taking really simple food of Sicily and elevating it. 120 00:06:47,440 --> 00:06:48,374 [TONY] Yes. 121 00:07:19,739 --> 00:07:23,643 It turns out Tony is a culinary linguist. 122 00:07:43,663 --> 00:07:46,432 Jesus, I feel guilty. 123 00:07:57,477 --> 00:07:59,612 [TUCCI] I just love this idea. 124 00:08:09,689 --> 00:08:11,491 I want to live with you. 125 00:08:20,566 --> 00:08:22,401 Tony created something 126 00:08:22,502 --> 00:08:24,504 that a lot of people aren't able to create. 127 00:08:24,570 --> 00:08:28,307 He's able to take these traditional foods 128 00:08:28,374 --> 00:08:30,142 and elevate them. 129 00:08:31,677 --> 00:08:33,212 He loves where he comes from 130 00:08:33,312 --> 00:08:37,917 and he just wants to make everything better. 131 00:08:38,017 --> 00:08:39,685 That's not a bad trait. 132 00:08:51,564 --> 00:08:55,368 Look at that little cluster of buildings up there. 133 00:08:55,434 --> 00:08:58,271 All these old abandoned farms. 134 00:08:58,371 --> 00:09:00,106 In the south east of the island 135 00:09:00,206 --> 00:09:03,543 the picturesque baroque town of Victoria 136 00:09:03,609 --> 00:09:06,579 rises surrounded by stark, hilly fields. 137 00:09:06,679 --> 00:09:10,249 This area is known for its grapes and I'm parched 138 00:09:10,349 --> 00:09:11,684 so I'm in the right place. 139 00:09:14,754 --> 00:09:18,257 Sicily has a reputation for being a traditional, 140 00:09:18,357 --> 00:09:20,126 rather macho society 141 00:09:20,226 --> 00:09:23,462 so until recently, wine-making, like many professions here, 142 00:09:23,563 --> 00:09:25,398 was controlled by men. 143 00:09:25,464 --> 00:09:27,800 But the wine-maker I'm about to meet 144 00:09:27,900 --> 00:09:30,102 is definitely bucking the trend. 145 00:09:32,204 --> 00:09:35,474 This is 38 year old Arianna Occhipinti. 146 00:09:35,575 --> 00:09:38,411 So, tell me everything. 147 00:09:51,057 --> 00:09:52,158 [TUCCI] What is the grape? 148 00:09:55,094 --> 00:09:56,429 [TUCCI] And Nero d'Avola 149 00:09:56,495 --> 00:09:58,598 is a very common grape in Sicily, isn't it? 150 00:10:11,811 --> 00:10:13,446 Sicily is one of the oldest 151 00:10:13,512 --> 00:10:16,015 wine-producing regions in the world, 152 00:10:16,115 --> 00:10:18,184 but it's wine is often thought to be too bold, 153 00:10:18,284 --> 00:10:20,853 perhaps fine to blend with other wines 154 00:10:20,953 --> 00:10:24,256 but nothing to be celebrated on its own. 155 00:10:24,323 --> 00:10:26,359 But Arianna is said to be producing 156 00:10:26,459 --> 00:10:28,294 a more delicate vintage. 157 00:10:38,270 --> 00:10:39,438 So what should it be? 158 00:10:40,640 --> 00:10:41,941 -It should be brown? -Yeah. 159 00:10:47,146 --> 00:10:48,180 It is sweet. 160 00:10:48,280 --> 00:10:49,882 It's very sweet, 161 00:10:49,982 --> 00:10:52,218 it's actually much sweeter than I thought it was going to be. 162 00:10:52,318 --> 00:10:55,655 Next to Arianna's vineyard lie abandoned farms, 163 00:10:55,721 --> 00:10:58,958 a reminder that Sicily has the worst unemployment rate 164 00:10:59,025 --> 00:11:01,227 in Italy. 165 00:11:01,327 --> 00:11:02,862 Thousands of young Sicilians 166 00:11:02,962 --> 00:11:05,531 have left the island in search of work. 167 00:11:07,299 --> 00:11:09,735 So you had a lot of friends who left , 168 00:11:09,835 --> 00:11:11,137 and where did they go, 169 00:11:11,203 --> 00:11:13,639 what did they end up doing? 170 00:11:30,189 --> 00:11:31,691 [TUCCI] So the farm ends up shutting down 171 00:11:31,757 --> 00:11:33,225 or the vineyard ends up shutting down. 172 00:11:33,325 --> 00:11:34,226 Yes. 173 00:11:34,326 --> 00:11:35,928 Arianna was inspired 174 00:11:36,028 --> 00:11:38,230 by the potential of the southern Sicilian soil. 175 00:11:47,106 --> 00:11:50,843 Her organic vines produce lower yields but fruitier aromas, 176 00:11:50,910 --> 00:11:54,513 and her varieties are deeply rooted in the local land. 177 00:11:54,580 --> 00:11:55,948 So you're from here? 178 00:12:24,910 --> 00:12:26,912 Arianna's dedication is evident 179 00:12:26,979 --> 00:12:29,315 in every aspect of her business. 180 00:12:32,752 --> 00:12:34,386 [TUCCI] I always wondered how this was done. 181 00:12:45,831 --> 00:12:47,399 It's your piece of art. 182 00:12:47,466 --> 00:12:48,834 It's beautiful. 183 00:12:48,934 --> 00:12:51,437 [TUCCI] How many bottles do you make a year? 184 00:12:53,139 --> 00:12:54,507 [TUCCI] Wow. 185 00:12:56,408 --> 00:12:58,811 -Yes! I thought you'd never ask. -Perfect. 186 00:13:09,588 --> 00:13:12,792 Now I'm hardly a wine expert but I do know what I like 187 00:13:12,858 --> 00:13:15,861 and that I like drinking it. 188 00:13:15,961 --> 00:13:18,597 This is delicious and I want to take a bath in it. 189 00:13:18,664 --> 00:13:20,866 -Yes, yes. -Yeah, yeah. 190 00:13:20,966 --> 00:13:25,337 [TUCCI] A lot of Sicilian wines are quite heavy but it's light-- 191 00:13:33,112 --> 00:13:35,548 Arianna's impressive achievements in the wine world 192 00:13:35,648 --> 00:13:37,383 come from her steely determination 193 00:13:37,483 --> 00:13:40,653 to choose the artisanal over the industrial. 194 00:13:40,719 --> 00:13:41,687 That's really good. 195 00:13:48,494 --> 00:13:51,063 And in a region where only a quarter of women 196 00:13:51,163 --> 00:13:52,865 have joined the workforce, 197 00:13:52,965 --> 00:13:55,234 her success is nothing short of revolutionary. 198 00:13:55,334 --> 00:13:58,571 Did you find it difficult, particularly as a young woman, 199 00:13:58,671 --> 00:14:00,639 to start a business? 200 00:14:32,204 --> 00:14:34,773 And they respect you. 201 00:14:34,874 --> 00:14:37,443 That's great. Well, thank you. 202 00:14:37,543 --> 00:14:39,778 -You're welcome. -Thank you so much. 203 00:14:39,879 --> 00:14:42,548 Arianna's wine is ground-breaking 204 00:14:42,615 --> 00:14:44,583 and I have no doubt that in the hands of people like her 205 00:14:44,683 --> 00:14:47,720 this land will certainly flourish. 206 00:15:00,633 --> 00:15:05,037 Today I'm in Palermo, the capital of Sicily, 207 00:15:05,104 --> 00:15:07,773 which is a kind of gritty city. 208 00:15:11,744 --> 00:15:14,780 But in recent years it's seen gentrification 209 00:15:14,880 --> 00:15:18,484 with the opening of new shops, restaurants and bars. 210 00:15:22,254 --> 00:15:24,290 [TUCCI] The architecture is extraordinary 211 00:15:24,390 --> 00:15:27,593 and a lot of it is mostly old structures, 212 00:15:27,660 --> 00:15:30,162 most of which are completely falling apart 213 00:15:30,262 --> 00:15:33,565 but they're so beautiful. 214 00:15:33,632 --> 00:15:37,102 It's not what I expected, it's kind of a revelation. 215 00:15:37,169 --> 00:15:40,606 I'm excited to go through it and explore it. 216 00:15:45,678 --> 00:15:48,514 Palermo was first settled by Venetian traders 217 00:15:48,614 --> 00:15:50,249 in the 8th Century B.C. 218 00:15:50,316 --> 00:15:52,017 Then the Arabs and the Normans 219 00:15:52,117 --> 00:15:54,086 arrived, or conquered, 220 00:15:54,153 --> 00:15:56,021 and these waves of migration 221 00:15:56,121 --> 00:15:58,691 created an incredibly beautiful city. 222 00:15:58,791 --> 00:16:00,526 It almost looks like New Orleans. 223 00:16:00,626 --> 00:16:02,194 When you look down, 224 00:16:02,294 --> 00:16:04,596 you see it's like the French Quarter, parts of it. 225 00:16:07,266 --> 00:16:10,669 But Palermo's beauty has come at a cost. 226 00:16:10,769 --> 00:16:12,371 This magnificent architecture 227 00:16:12,471 --> 00:16:14,540 is the legacy of wealthy land owners 228 00:16:14,640 --> 00:16:18,310 who built grand palazzo's on the profits of their estates 229 00:16:18,377 --> 00:16:20,846 while their workers lived in poverty. 230 00:16:23,682 --> 00:16:26,218 When this system collapsed in the 19th Century 231 00:16:26,318 --> 00:16:29,388 workers moved out of the countryside and into the city 232 00:16:29,488 --> 00:16:32,224 where poor and rich now live side by side. 233 00:16:38,230 --> 00:16:41,333 Hidden behind this 400 year old door 234 00:16:41,400 --> 00:16:44,036 is a world I've never encountered. 235 00:16:44,136 --> 00:16:48,474 I've been invited to dinner by a real life princess. 236 00:16:48,540 --> 00:16:49,908 Stanley. 237 00:16:55,347 --> 00:16:57,349 Princess Stefania di Raffadali 238 00:16:57,416 --> 00:16:59,418 is one of the last surviving members 239 00:16:59,518 --> 00:17:01,320 of the Sicilian royal family. 240 00:17:01,387 --> 00:17:02,755 Nice to see you. 241 00:17:02,855 --> 00:17:03,822 Thank you very much. 242 00:17:05,190 --> 00:17:06,658 I'm very happy to be here. 243 00:17:06,725 --> 00:17:08,227 The princess became a royal 244 00:17:08,327 --> 00:17:10,195 through marriage to a direct descendant 245 00:17:10,262 --> 00:17:11,930 of the Norman conquest. 246 00:17:12,031 --> 00:17:14,767 This palace has been in her husband's family 247 00:17:14,867 --> 00:17:16,435 since the 16th Century 248 00:17:16,535 --> 00:17:20,105 and is preserved like a living museum. 249 00:17:20,205 --> 00:17:21,607 How long were you married? 250 00:17:21,707 --> 00:17:23,442 We married in '57. 251 00:17:23,542 --> 00:17:25,110 And when did he pass away? 252 00:17:25,210 --> 00:17:26,445 Just 10 years ago. 253 00:17:26,545 --> 00:17:28,213 He loved this house very much. 254 00:17:28,280 --> 00:17:30,616 So the only thing that I could do 255 00:17:30,716 --> 00:17:32,284 was to keep it and maintain it. 256 00:17:32,384 --> 00:17:35,454 [TUCCI] Well, it's absolutely beautiful. 257 00:17:35,554 --> 00:17:38,457 But as thrilled as I am to meet the princess, 258 00:17:38,557 --> 00:17:40,759 that's not the only reason I wanted to come here. 259 00:17:40,859 --> 00:17:43,962 I'm on the hunt for the perfect timballo. 260 00:17:44,063 --> 00:17:46,465 [TUCCI] Look at that, so pretty. 261 00:17:46,565 --> 00:17:51,303 A baked mold of pasta or rice with rich ingredients. 262 00:17:51,403 --> 00:17:54,440 It's a dish I'm obsessed with. 263 00:17:54,540 --> 00:17:55,941 Oh wow. 264 00:17:56,041 --> 00:17:58,210 Every family has a different way of making it. 265 00:17:58,277 --> 00:17:59,878 Yes. 266 00:17:59,945 --> 00:18:02,381 And I've heard that Maria, the princess' chef, 267 00:18:02,448 --> 00:18:06,585 is a much sought-after authority on timballo making. 268 00:18:09,721 --> 00:18:13,092 In my family, we have our own version of this dish 269 00:18:15,327 --> 00:18:17,729 and it's the centerpiece of a film I made 270 00:18:17,796 --> 00:18:20,999 called Big Night , back in the 1990s. 271 00:18:21,100 --> 00:18:24,436 So it's macaroni 272 00:18:24,503 --> 00:18:25,637 [MARIA] Macaroni 273 00:18:38,117 --> 00:18:39,985 [PRINCESS STEFANIA] We had great fights 274 00:18:40,085 --> 00:18:42,287 because the old recipe was sugar 275 00:18:42,354 --> 00:18:44,189 but she doesn't like sugar. 276 00:18:44,289 --> 00:18:46,291 She's always saying "Too much sugar." 277 00:18:50,629 --> 00:18:53,198 Maria is making three very different versions 278 00:18:53,298 --> 00:18:55,868 of her timballo for dinner. 279 00:18:55,968 --> 00:18:57,669 One with eggplant 280 00:18:59,037 --> 00:19:02,508 one with rice 281 00:19:02,608 --> 00:19:05,711 and this one with a pastry crust. 282 00:19:09,281 --> 00:19:10,716 The princess's son, Bernardo, 283 00:19:10,816 --> 00:19:12,551 and her granddaughter, Alessandra, 284 00:19:12,651 --> 00:19:15,687 are joining us for this rather formal dinner, 285 00:19:15,787 --> 00:19:18,524 complete with a white-gloved butler. 286 00:19:18,624 --> 00:19:20,893 Thank you. 287 00:19:20,993 --> 00:19:23,562 So this is the first one, which is 288 00:19:23,662 --> 00:19:24,963 [PRINCESS STEFANIA] Eggplants with cheese 289 00:19:25,030 --> 00:19:27,132 -And the pasta. -Aneletti. 290 00:19:28,834 --> 00:19:31,570 [TUCCI] Tell me about the tradition of timballo. 291 00:19:31,670 --> 00:19:33,172 [PRINCESS STEFANIA] They came from France. 292 00:19:33,238 --> 00:19:35,741 All the families of the aristocracy 293 00:19:35,841 --> 00:19:38,243 thought it was smart to have a French cook. 294 00:19:38,343 --> 00:19:41,313 They brought with them, for example, bechamel, 295 00:19:41,380 --> 00:19:43,582 that wasn't known here in Italy 296 00:19:43,682 --> 00:19:46,084 because we had more Arab cuisine. 297 00:19:46,185 --> 00:19:48,053 Is this like, what? How many years 298 00:19:48,153 --> 00:19:53,025 -1856. -1850s. 299 00:19:53,091 --> 00:19:57,062 I find it fascinating that even this most Sicilian of dishes 300 00:19:57,162 --> 00:19:58,931 has origins elsewhere. 301 00:20:05,704 --> 00:20:07,573 Yeah, it's a huge amount of work. 302 00:20:07,673 --> 00:20:10,509 You need to make it with somebody. Yeah. 303 00:20:12,177 --> 00:20:17,583 This one is with rice, with bechamel, cheese and ham. 304 00:20:17,683 --> 00:20:19,184 That's very French. 305 00:20:20,886 --> 00:20:22,354 Which is the best one for you? 306 00:20:22,421 --> 00:20:25,090 The eggplant. I could eat the entire thing. 307 00:20:25,190 --> 00:20:28,727 -It's very funny this. -[TUCCI] Which one is yours? 308 00:20:28,794 --> 00:20:30,362 I prefer the rice one. 309 00:20:32,731 --> 00:20:34,933 It's certainly fitting to be eating this dish 310 00:20:35,033 --> 00:20:38,770 in such an opulent and unique setting. 311 00:20:38,870 --> 00:20:40,472 I feel like I've stepped into a time machine 312 00:20:40,572 --> 00:20:42,941 to experience the origins of timballo. 313 00:20:45,577 --> 00:20:48,480 So tell me how Palermo has changed. 314 00:20:48,580 --> 00:20:51,250 Now it has become an international town. 315 00:20:51,316 --> 00:20:52,651 Everybody's coming. 316 00:20:52,751 --> 00:20:55,087 I did notice when I went out last night 317 00:20:55,153 --> 00:20:56,822 all these young people out 318 00:20:56,922 --> 00:20:58,490 and it was much more youthful 319 00:20:58,590 --> 00:20:59,725 than I thought it was going to be. 320 00:20:59,791 --> 00:21:01,493 I have a lot of friends 321 00:21:01,593 --> 00:21:04,997 that come from France or Germany 322 00:21:05,097 --> 00:21:08,767 and I've seen people falling in love with Palermo 323 00:21:08,834 --> 00:21:10,936 in a moving way. 324 00:21:11,003 --> 00:21:14,606 There's something in the light of Palermo. 325 00:21:16,775 --> 00:21:19,745 One of the reasons for Palermo's regeneration 326 00:21:19,811 --> 00:21:23,115 is the decline of the infamous Cosa Nostra. 327 00:21:23,181 --> 00:21:24,149 The Mafia. 328 00:21:41,300 --> 00:21:44,102 And the connection between the Mafia and the government 329 00:21:44,169 --> 00:21:47,506 is not as great as it once was? 330 00:21:56,014 --> 00:21:57,449 -Yeah. -Of the judges. 331 00:21:59,818 --> 00:22:02,287 Falcone and Borsellino were judges 332 00:22:02,354 --> 00:22:04,523 who brought large-scale legal action 333 00:22:04,623 --> 00:22:06,391 against the mafioso, 334 00:22:06,491 --> 00:22:11,163 exposing the government's support for the Mafia. 335 00:22:11,229 --> 00:22:15,500 They paid the ultimate price for their bravery. 336 00:22:15,567 --> 00:22:18,837 Both men were assassinated within months of each other 337 00:22:18,904 --> 00:22:21,640 in Palermo in 1992. 338 00:22:26,178 --> 00:22:27,512 [TUCCI] To change. 339 00:22:32,517 --> 00:22:33,652 That was a turning point. 340 00:22:33,719 --> 00:22:34,920 -Yeah. -Right. 341 00:22:38,190 --> 00:22:41,693 It's been a very memorable evening. 342 00:22:41,760 --> 00:22:44,396 But Palermo's ancient aristocratic families 343 00:22:44,496 --> 00:22:46,064 are a dying breed, 344 00:22:46,164 --> 00:22:49,701 however much we might want to preserve the past. 345 00:22:59,711 --> 00:23:03,115 The heart of this beautiful city has moved elsewhere. 346 00:23:03,215 --> 00:23:06,017 To the young. To the new. 347 00:23:06,084 --> 00:23:08,086 And to the future. 348 00:23:19,731 --> 00:23:21,466 Thank you very much, thank you. 349 00:23:21,566 --> 00:23:24,803 If you thought Sicily was Italy's southernmost island, 350 00:23:24,903 --> 00:23:26,972 you'd be wrong. 351 00:23:27,072 --> 00:23:30,075 Because 173 miles even further south 352 00:23:30,142 --> 00:23:33,245 is the beautiful island of Lampedusa. 353 00:23:35,113 --> 00:23:37,315 With just 5,000 inhabitants, 354 00:23:37,416 --> 00:23:38,917 this paradise island was famed 355 00:23:38,984 --> 00:23:42,487 for its waters chock full of fish. 356 00:23:42,587 --> 00:23:46,158 Situated 70 miles off the African coast, 357 00:23:46,258 --> 00:23:49,995 it's become a beacon for migrants and asylum seekers 358 00:23:50,095 --> 00:23:52,164 trying to get to Europe. 359 00:23:52,264 --> 00:23:55,667 Thousands arrive on these shores every year. 360 00:24:06,511 --> 00:24:08,814 I've come to the port to meet third generation fisherman 361 00:24:08,914 --> 00:24:12,150 Beppe Billeci, who's bringing in the daily catch. 362 00:24:27,799 --> 00:24:30,535 Beppe's been fishing here since he was nine, 363 00:24:30,635 --> 00:24:33,171 catching anchovies and alacce, 364 00:24:33,271 --> 00:24:34,973 a type of sardine that was once 365 00:24:35,040 --> 00:24:37,676 the main form of sustenance in Lampedusa. 366 00:24:39,344 --> 00:24:41,546 He's invited me for lunch. 367 00:24:41,646 --> 00:24:45,517 His wife Rina is rumored to be one of the island's best cooks. 368 00:25:08,907 --> 00:25:11,543 Rina's preparing some traditional Sicilian dishes 369 00:25:11,643 --> 00:25:13,245 with her daughter Enza, 370 00:25:13,345 --> 00:25:15,313 using some of the fish that Beppe's just caught. 371 00:25:21,586 --> 00:25:23,488 It's so simple. 372 00:25:23,555 --> 00:25:25,857 All she does is dress the dish with a simple salsa verde 373 00:25:25,924 --> 00:25:28,693 which is made of parsley, capers, olive oil 374 00:25:28,760 --> 00:25:30,762 and bread soaked in vinegar. 375 00:25:30,862 --> 00:25:33,365 Her second dish is more elaborate. 376 00:25:42,073 --> 00:25:44,776 Rina is making sarde a beccafico 377 00:25:44,876 --> 00:25:48,446 which literally means, fig-pecker sardines. 378 00:25:48,547 --> 00:25:52,250 But the fig-pecker is a bird, not a fish. 379 00:26:30,989 --> 00:26:34,593 For me, this dish embodies the whole philosophy 380 00:26:34,659 --> 00:26:36,428 of Sicilian cooking, 381 00:26:36,494 --> 00:26:39,130 if you can't afford the food of the aristocracy, 382 00:26:39,230 --> 00:26:41,266 make do with what you've got. 383 00:26:44,336 --> 00:26:45,770 Thank you for having us. 384 00:26:55,113 --> 00:26:57,015 It's so good. 385 00:26:57,115 --> 00:27:00,485 With the salsa verde, it's so simple. 386 00:27:00,585 --> 00:27:01,786 It's absolutely delicious. 387 00:27:03,121 --> 00:27:05,090 [LITTLE GIRL] [SPEAKS ITALIAN] 388 00:27:05,156 --> 00:27:08,860 [SPEAKS ITALIAN] She just said "The fish is good." 389 00:27:08,960 --> 00:27:10,595 It's delicious. 390 00:27:10,662 --> 00:27:12,697 But the sea that has provided us with this feast 391 00:27:12,797 --> 00:27:15,834 is also the arena of an ongoing tragedy. 392 00:27:15,934 --> 00:27:18,536 Over the last six years it has claimed the lives 393 00:27:18,637 --> 00:27:23,842 of an estimated 18,000 migrants fleeing poverty and war. 394 00:27:23,942 --> 00:27:26,711 As a fisherman, Beppe has first-hand experience 395 00:27:26,811 --> 00:27:28,279 of this crisis. 396 00:27:28,346 --> 00:27:30,515 I just want to ask you about the immigrant situation, 397 00:27:30,615 --> 00:27:32,150 the migrant situation. 398 00:28:16,861 --> 00:28:20,498 In a country where migration is the leading political issue, 399 00:28:20,565 --> 00:28:24,669 Lampedusans stand out for their compassion. 400 00:28:24,736 --> 00:28:28,106 The whole island was nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize 401 00:28:28,206 --> 00:28:31,009 in 2014. 402 00:28:31,076 --> 00:28:33,945 Beppe has bravely saved migrants in the past, 403 00:28:34,045 --> 00:28:35,847 pulling them from the sea, 404 00:28:35,914 --> 00:28:38,216 but after a government clampdown, 405 00:28:38,283 --> 00:28:42,721 captains who saved them faced fines and even imprisonment. 406 00:29:20,725 --> 00:29:24,763 The situation for refugees remains extremely precarious. 407 00:29:28,600 --> 00:29:30,435 I've come to what's known on the island 408 00:29:30,502 --> 00:29:33,338 as the boat graveyard. 409 00:29:33,438 --> 00:29:36,574 A place where refugee boats are discarded. 410 00:29:39,811 --> 00:29:41,279 The desperation 411 00:29:42,480 --> 00:29:44,482 has to be so profound 412 00:29:48,119 --> 00:29:51,022 to come across the ocean in a boat like that. 413 00:30:04,002 --> 00:30:07,305 You still see everybody's clothing left, shoes left. 414 00:30:12,710 --> 00:30:16,447 The integration of immigrants into a society 415 00:30:16,514 --> 00:30:18,049 makes that society so much better 416 00:30:18,149 --> 00:30:21,219 and stronger and richer and more interesting. 417 00:30:23,188 --> 00:30:25,657 To turn people away is not natural. 418 00:30:43,007 --> 00:30:47,078 I'm back in mainland Sicily and I'm heading east. 419 00:30:47,178 --> 00:30:48,746 I'm going to Catania, 420 00:30:48,847 --> 00:30:51,583 an ancient and beautiful port city. 421 00:30:51,683 --> 00:30:53,651 It's a bustling vibrant metropolis 422 00:30:53,718 --> 00:30:56,020 and the island's second largest city. 423 00:30:56,087 --> 00:30:58,089 But it does have one problem. 424 00:30:58,189 --> 00:31:01,059 It sits right in the shadow of Mount Etna, 425 00:31:01,159 --> 00:31:05,096 one of the most active volcanoes in the world. 426 00:31:05,196 --> 00:31:06,598 Don't you wonder who said 427 00:31:06,698 --> 00:31:08,499 "I have an idea, let's just build a house up here 428 00:31:08,566 --> 00:31:10,602 at the base of the volcano." 429 00:31:10,702 --> 00:31:12,770 "Don't you want to be closer to the sea?" 430 00:31:12,871 --> 00:31:16,908 "No, no, no, no. I want to be right at the fiery maw of it." 431 00:31:17,008 --> 00:31:18,443 [LAUGHS] 432 00:31:24,249 --> 00:31:26,851 But there's a very good reason why Catanians risk 433 00:31:26,918 --> 00:31:29,454 living so close to this volatile volcano. 434 00:31:29,554 --> 00:31:33,524 Because centuries of eruptions have created mineral-rich soil 435 00:31:33,591 --> 00:31:35,426 which grows some of the finest 436 00:31:35,526 --> 00:31:37,896 fruits and vegetables in the world. 437 00:31:37,962 --> 00:31:39,464 I'm here to visit a restaurant 438 00:31:39,564 --> 00:31:41,532 that uses this beautiful local produce 439 00:31:41,599 --> 00:31:43,968 to make classic Sicilian dishes. 440 00:31:46,905 --> 00:31:49,908 It's owner is Roberta Capizzi. 441 00:31:54,379 --> 00:31:56,748 -[ROBERTA] We can come this way. -[TUCCI] OK. 442 00:31:59,217 --> 00:32:02,153 Roberta's chef is making pasta alla norma, 443 00:32:02,253 --> 00:32:04,656 a Sicilian favorite made with eggplant. 444 00:32:04,756 --> 00:32:06,958 It was named after the opera, Norma, 445 00:32:07,058 --> 00:32:09,994 composed by one of Catania's most famous sons, 446 00:32:10,094 --> 00:32:11,663 Vincenzo Bellini. 447 00:32:11,763 --> 00:32:16,134 So pasta alla Norma is a very famous Sicilian dish. 448 00:32:16,234 --> 00:32:20,305 And the recipe we're gonna make today is from your family? 449 00:32:30,782 --> 00:32:32,317 Eggplants are a gift 450 00:32:32,417 --> 00:32:35,320 left by the Arab domination in the 9th Century 451 00:32:35,420 --> 00:32:38,323 and in Sicilian cooking they often replace meat 452 00:32:38,423 --> 00:32:40,858 because they're cheaper and they grow everywhere. 453 00:32:40,959 --> 00:32:42,627 And then tomato? 454 00:32:47,665 --> 00:32:50,468 [TUCCI] What kind of pasta are you using? 455 00:32:52,637 --> 00:32:56,674 Of course, homemade, fresh cut macaroni. What else? 456 00:32:58,176 --> 00:32:59,677 And it wouldn't be a Norma 457 00:32:59,777 --> 00:33:03,047 without salty baked ricotta on top. 458 00:33:08,486 --> 00:33:10,054 -What do you think? -I love it. 459 00:33:10,154 --> 00:33:12,724 I love it, it's so simple and it's really delicate. 460 00:33:12,824 --> 00:33:14,692 -Thank you. -Oh my god, it's so good. 461 00:33:17,862 --> 00:33:20,798 For the next dish, Roberta's promised me something special. 462 00:33:27,171 --> 00:33:30,875 I never imagined myself, or anyone else, eating donkey. 463 00:33:30,975 --> 00:33:32,677 -It's a donkey. -Yes. 464 00:33:32,744 --> 00:33:34,212 -It was a donkey. -Yes. 465 00:33:41,853 --> 00:33:43,721 Donkeys are a favorite around here 466 00:33:43,821 --> 00:33:45,089 This is delicious. 467 00:33:45,189 --> 00:33:46,891 because they've always been 468 00:33:46,991 --> 00:33:49,260 hardworking companions for Sicilian farmers. 469 00:33:49,360 --> 00:33:50,595 The meat is sweet. 470 00:33:50,695 --> 00:33:52,063 Yes. 471 00:33:52,163 --> 00:33:53,865 Believe it or not, it's really good. 472 00:33:53,931 --> 00:33:57,668 It's like beef carpaccio but even sweeter. 473 00:33:57,735 --> 00:34:00,905 Tell me about the big change you made in your life. 474 00:34:21,859 --> 00:34:23,027 -[TUCCI] Wow. -Yeah. 475 00:34:25,730 --> 00:34:27,098 [TUCCI] And the name of the restaurant, 476 00:34:27,198 --> 00:34:28,366 tell me the name of the restaurant. 477 00:34:29,901 --> 00:34:31,069 [TUCCI] Which means? 478 00:34:59,130 --> 00:35:01,632 -Everything from Sicily. -[ROBERTA] Everything. 479 00:35:03,468 --> 00:35:05,303 True to its name, the restaurant, 480 00:35:05,403 --> 00:35:07,271 like the house of a good friend, 481 00:35:07,338 --> 00:35:09,173 stays open all day. 482 00:35:09,273 --> 00:35:11,843 Which isn't usual in this part of the world. 483 00:35:11,943 --> 00:35:16,180 Most places close between lunch and dinner. 484 00:35:16,280 --> 00:35:20,651 Are Sicilians different than other Italians? 485 00:35:57,788 --> 00:36:00,658 Grazie, thank you. 486 00:36:00,725 --> 00:36:02,627 Like a true Sicilian, 487 00:36:02,693 --> 00:36:05,796 Roberta's passion for life, for family and for this island 488 00:36:05,863 --> 00:36:09,567 has found a perfect expression in her food. 489 00:36:09,667 --> 00:36:11,235 It's just extraordinary. 490 00:36:11,335 --> 00:36:14,906 It's some of the best food probably that I've ever had. 491 00:36:15,006 --> 00:36:17,308 The food is great, but the magic ingredient 492 00:36:17,375 --> 00:36:19,844 that makes this restaurant so special 493 00:36:19,911 --> 00:36:23,080 is the wonderful Sicilian hospitality, 494 00:36:23,181 --> 00:36:25,049 which also helps take your mind off 495 00:36:25,149 --> 00:36:28,085 that active volcano looming nearby. 496 00:36:38,196 --> 00:36:41,499 I'm staying in Catania to explore some more. 497 00:36:41,566 --> 00:36:45,102 A busy industrial hub, once known as the Milan of the south 498 00:36:45,203 --> 00:36:48,105 it has a growing migrant community. 499 00:36:48,206 --> 00:36:52,009 Catania is the main reception center for newcomers in Sicily 500 00:36:52,076 --> 00:36:53,611 and this new wave of migration 501 00:36:53,711 --> 00:36:56,847 is already changing the city and its food. 502 00:37:06,390 --> 00:37:09,627 Emmanuella and Mimmo Pistone run a supper club 503 00:37:09,727 --> 00:37:11,462 where young refugees and migrants 504 00:37:11,562 --> 00:37:13,431 cook the food from their homelands 505 00:37:13,531 --> 00:37:15,433 and share their stories. 506 00:37:17,068 --> 00:37:19,704 -Mustafa, ciao. -Nice to meet you. 507 00:37:19,770 --> 00:37:21,405 -Nice to meet you too. -Hi. Joy. 508 00:37:21,472 --> 00:37:23,207 Hi Joy, how are you? 509 00:37:23,274 --> 00:37:26,611 Joy, from Nigeria, is now a close family friend 510 00:37:26,711 --> 00:37:29,814 and Mustafa, a young migrant from Egypt, 511 00:37:29,914 --> 00:37:32,216 has become their foster son. 512 00:37:32,283 --> 00:37:36,287 And I've heard they're both amazing cooks. 513 00:37:36,387 --> 00:37:40,825 This one, we have carrots, green beans, and the shrimps. 514 00:37:40,925 --> 00:37:43,494 [TUCCI] And little shrimps? The little 515 00:37:43,594 --> 00:37:45,229 [JOY] They are fried already. 516 00:37:45,296 --> 00:37:47,565 -Oh delicious. -Yeah. 517 00:37:47,632 --> 00:37:50,501 Oh I can't wait. It's very exciting. 518 00:37:50,601 --> 00:37:53,504 Tonight they're making a fusion of African dishes. 519 00:37:53,604 --> 00:37:56,941 [JOY] This one is called Nigerian fried rice. 520 00:37:57,008 --> 00:37:59,410 Joy's special rice is being served alongside 521 00:37:59,477 --> 00:38:03,247 spicy chicken flavored with curry, ginger and rosemary. 522 00:38:03,314 --> 00:38:04,515 Oh my gosh. 523 00:38:04,615 --> 00:38:05,850 [MUSTAFA] Yeah, yeah. For you. 524 00:38:05,950 --> 00:38:08,319 -[TUCCI] Plantains -And plantain. 525 00:38:08,419 --> 00:38:10,021 It's my favorite. 526 00:38:10,121 --> 00:38:12,323 A type of banana fried in coconut oil. 527 00:38:19,964 --> 00:38:22,700 I can see that Nigerian and Italian hospitality 528 00:38:22,800 --> 00:38:24,502 have a lot in common. 529 00:38:27,938 --> 00:38:31,942 Oh that's wonderful. That's delicious. 530 00:38:32,009 --> 00:38:34,545 Emmanuel and Mimmo took Mustafa under their wing 531 00:38:34,645 --> 00:38:38,716 shortly after he arrived in Sicily six years ago. 532 00:38:44,388 --> 00:38:47,224 He was only sixteen when he left his family 533 00:38:47,325 --> 00:38:50,027 to make the dangerous journey across the Mediterranean. 534 00:38:50,127 --> 00:38:52,697 -How did they arrive? -With a small boat 535 00:38:52,797 --> 00:38:55,499 on the main beach of Catania, 536 00:38:55,566 --> 00:38:57,234 which is called Playa. 537 00:38:57,335 --> 00:39:01,672 It was the 10th of August in 2013. 538 00:39:03,341 --> 00:39:04,575 [TUCCI] How big was the boat? 539 00:39:11,148 --> 00:39:13,551 -The boat stopped. -It hit a sand bar. 540 00:39:13,651 --> 00:39:14,919 -Yes. -Yeah. 541 00:39:20,858 --> 00:39:22,426 They started walking. 542 00:39:31,235 --> 00:39:34,338 Just in front of the shore. 543 00:39:34,405 --> 00:39:37,274 It was terrible. Yeah. 544 00:39:37,375 --> 00:39:39,377 They couldn't swim. 545 00:39:58,863 --> 00:40:00,765 [TUCCI] This is the thing. So many people imagine 546 00:40:00,865 --> 00:40:02,566 that people leave their countries 547 00:40:02,633 --> 00:40:04,635 to come and take advantage 548 00:40:04,735 --> 00:40:06,637 when, in fact, they're just coming 549 00:40:06,737 --> 00:40:09,407 -because they live in fear -[JOY] Yeah. 550 00:40:09,473 --> 00:40:11,442 they're incredibly poor. 551 00:40:11,542 --> 00:40:13,244 [JOY] They need somewhere safe as well. 552 00:40:13,310 --> 00:40:17,815 Yes, they need somewhere safe and they want to work hard. 553 00:40:17,915 --> 00:40:19,450 -Yeah. Yeah. -To have a good life. 554 00:40:30,761 --> 00:40:33,998 So when people say that we are good because we help them 555 00:40:34,098 --> 00:40:36,500 but I always say it's not true 556 00:40:36,600 --> 00:40:38,469 because they are helping us 557 00:40:38,569 --> 00:40:43,307 in finding a reason to give a sense to this moment, 558 00:40:43,407 --> 00:40:46,911 you know, that the world is living. 559 00:40:46,977 --> 00:40:50,948 So we have to thank them. 560 00:40:51,015 --> 00:40:54,151 The story of immigration seems to have changed very little 561 00:40:54,251 --> 00:40:55,686 over the years. 562 00:40:55,786 --> 00:40:57,521 And one of its most beautiful consequences 563 00:40:57,621 --> 00:41:00,424 is the imprint it leaves on the cuisine. 564 00:41:00,491 --> 00:41:03,494 The spices that are part of all this, 565 00:41:03,594 --> 00:41:07,331 from Egypt have been in Italy for centuries. 566 00:41:07,431 --> 00:41:09,467 It's what created Italian food. 567 00:41:09,533 --> 00:41:13,037 It's why Italian food in Sicily is completely different 568 00:41:13,137 --> 00:41:17,875 than the Italian food in Piemonte or in Rome. 569 00:41:17,975 --> 00:41:20,177 Well I really want to thank you so much. 570 00:41:20,277 --> 00:41:24,949 You're pretty great parents, that's all I can say. 571 00:41:25,015 --> 00:41:27,218 Even if from time to time we quarrel. 572 00:41:27,318 --> 00:41:30,821 [ALL LAUGH] 573 00:41:33,657 --> 00:41:35,826 Throughout history, Sicilians have shared the bounty 574 00:41:35,893 --> 00:41:38,562 of their generous land with newcomers, 575 00:41:38,662 --> 00:41:40,197 evolving the culture, 576 00:41:40,297 --> 00:41:44,368 and creating new culinary traditions. 577 00:41:44,468 --> 00:41:47,338 Cheers, cheers. Cheers, cheers. Thank you. 578 00:41:49,006 --> 00:41:51,408 Every new arrival brings change 579 00:41:51,509 --> 00:41:55,145 and the opportunity for regeneration and renewal. 580 00:41:55,212 --> 00:41:57,348 But one thing that won't change here 581 00:41:57,414 --> 00:41:59,583 is that, at the home of a Cumpari, 582 00:41:59,683 --> 00:42:02,253 the door is always open 583 00:42:02,353 --> 00:42:05,689 and you are always welcome to join the feast.