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It's hard to believe that
just a few months ago

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the first wave of
COVID-19 had emptied

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the streets of Naples

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and Italy was in lockdown.

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Thankfully, I've arrived during

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a brief moment of normality.

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Restaurants are open and

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masks are not required outside

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and we'll be sticking
to the local rules.

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Napoli is a truly
thrilling city.

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The second you arrive
you're engulfed

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by a magnificent chaos

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and there's no point
in fighting it.

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People here do
things their own way.

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Take the energy of New York,

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mix in the gritty
elegance of New Orleans,

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add 3,000 years of history

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and cook it all up in the heat

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of the world's most
famous volcano.

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That is Napoli.

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I'm Stanley Tucci.

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I'm Italian on both sides and
I'm traveling across Italy

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to discover how the food in

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each of this
country's 20 regions

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is as unique as the
people and their past.

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This place may be looked down on

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as the poverty-stricken
underdog of Italy.

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But the people who
live in this region

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have their own way
of doing things.

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For me, this is our philosophy.

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This is our style and tradition.

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They've given the world
its favorite food.

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Pizza margarita!

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Just don't forget
where it was invented.

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If pizza was going
to be born anywhere,

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it would be here in Naples.

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The city is hot, fast,

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and a feast for the senses.

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Naples is situated in Campania.

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It's the unofficial capital
of the Italian south

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and is even older than Rome.

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It's a region of volcanic
landscapes, magical islands

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and the world-famous
Amalfi Coast.

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The southern sun
nurtures tomatoes

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that are the envy of the world

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and out in the hills, buffalo

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produce the milk for
the finest mozzarella.

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But pizza wasn't born
in the lush hills.

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It came from the darkest,
poorest streets of Naples

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and its story combines two
of Italy's favorite subjects,

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food and death.

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Vesuvius explodes.

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Italy's historical volcano

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bursts into the most fearsome
and devastating eruption

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At least once in every century,

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it has heralded disaster.

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The volcano is this sort of
ever-present threat, isn't it?

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It is. You know, it
is on the landscape,

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you always watch it, and have it
in your mind and in your eyes.

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Professor Elisabetta Moro is

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one of the three
million Neapolitans

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who live in the shadow
of the mighty volcano.

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People are obsessed with
the possibility of dying

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because there is a volcano,
because there are earthquakes,

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-because there are
epidemics -Yeah.

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So it's very hard for them.

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Life can be tough in
this volatile city.

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It's no wonder everywhere you go

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in Naples you see
handmade shrines

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keeping a light shining for
loved ones who have died.

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This is all over the
city you see this.

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Yes, they are included in
the architecture of the city.

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You know these are kind
of temples of memory,

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you remember the people of
your family or your friends,

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especially young
people who died.

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Coming from a southern
Italian family,

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death was always talked about.

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I remember my grandmother
used to call my mother,

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my mother would pick up
the phone and she'd say,

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- You know who died?
- Yeah, exactly!

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- That's what it was!
- My grandmother did the same.

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But it was also a way
for feeling alive.

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Elisabetta is showing me the
historic heart of the city.

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For hundreds of years the
poorest people in Naples

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were packed into
these narrow streets.

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Terrible sanitation
meant that life

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could be snatched at any moment

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by the brutal
epidemic of their age,

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cholera.

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People really got
scared, because

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you know, it was an epidemic

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like more or less
the COVID-19 virus...

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Yes.

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So you could transmit
it very easily.

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Right. Right.

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Cholera was spread
by water and by food

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so people here cooked
pieces of bread in hot oil.

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So the frying is simpler.

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It's simpler, it's easy,

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you can get a very
good point of hygiene

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because you know, frying
really sterilizes everything.

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It was probably one of
the few times in life

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that frying something might
actually be healthy for you.

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So this is where we're
going to get fried pizza?

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Alright, ciao.

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Okay, so...

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Beautiful.

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You know since a century
her family's doing this.

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For a century?

110
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For a century

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These streets were once
full of places like this,

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but Fernanda is now the
last of an historic lineage.

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It all
puffs up, doesn't it?

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It's beautiful.

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- Alright thank you. Thank you.
- You're welcome.

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Ready?

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This delicious pocket of history

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was pizza before
pizza was pizza.

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-With the pork and the ricotta
-Yeah, it's very tasty.

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Pizza margarita!

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As we walk off some
of those calories,

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Elisabetta tells me how pizza
was born in these streets

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from quite unpromising
beginnings.

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Well mostly they
were selling bread

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with a little bit of fat on it.

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Sometimes pepper,

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because people were really poor.

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Then at a certain point,
people here invented pizza.

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But for many years it was
just a Neapolitan taste,

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a Neapolitan dish.

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Because cholera also played
a significant role...

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- Yes it did.
- In its attitudes.

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It did for centuries.

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Thankfully for us, by
the late 19th century,

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the Italian prejudice
against Naples

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and its food began to change

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and Elisabetta's taken
me to the place where,

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according to legend,

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in 1889 the Italian
Queen ordered a pizza

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that went on to bear her
name, the Margherita.

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Do you make pizza at home ever?

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00:08:06,224 --> 00:08:07,617
In Naples it's almost forbidden.

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There's no point.

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The only problem
was during lockdown,

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all the pizzerias were closed.

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- That was really bad.
- Yeah.

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You know the first
day after lockdown,

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60,000 pizzas were
made same day.

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Really?

150
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Yes and they were not sufficient

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because everybody
wanted a pizza.

152
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- Because they were desperate.
- Yeah.

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First the pizza
then the vaccine.

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In the streets of Naples,

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pizza grew out of one pandemic

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and sustained the
city through another.

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What was born in a
place consumed by death

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is now a food the entire
world finds life-affirming.

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Pizza with ham.

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In this city of pizza-makers,

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there is a man whose
reputation towers over the town

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like Vesuvius.

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Enzo Coccia wrote the

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globally recognized standards

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on making the best
Neapolitan pizza in the world

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and was the first ever pizzaiolo

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to be recognized by
the Michelin guide.

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Enzo?

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The only thing he loves more
than pizza is Naples itself.

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Before he makes me a pizza,

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the Maestro needs
to go shopping.

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And when you're in Campania,
who needs the store

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when you can go
straight to the source?

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Buffalo were brought to work
the Southern Italian land

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by Arab conquerors almost
a thousand years ago

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and early each
morning, their milk

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is turned into the
finest mozzarella.

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This masked man is
Mimmo la Vecchia

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and he's acknowledged as one

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of the greatest
cheesemakers in Italy.

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Once this morning's collection
of buffalo milk is heated,

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00:10:32,719 --> 00:10:37,637
Mimmo adds rennet to separate
out the curds and the whey.

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00:10:40,465 --> 00:10:43,730
The curds are chopped and
boiling water is added.

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The result is incredible.

185
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It's like he's a magician.

186
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Do you know what I mean?

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In Italian, "Mozzare"
means "to cut off"

188
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and this ancient process
gives the cheese its name.

189
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The mozzarella then rests in
a salt bath for a few hours.

190
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Unlike other cheeses
which get better with age,

191
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mozzarella is best eaten fresh.

192
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Which is great news for me.

193
00:11:27,512 --> 00:11:29,863
Oh my God!

194
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If you're going to
make the greatest pizza

195
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in Naples, once you
have the bestmozzarella,

196
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you need the perfect tomato.

197
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There's a place whose
name is whispered in awe

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by pizza fans everywhere

199
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from Brooklyn to Bangkok
and Enzo is taking me there.

200
00:12:11,034 --> 00:12:13,254
As a pizza lover, I only ever

201
00:12:13,297 --> 00:12:16,170
buy cans of San Marzano tomatoes

202
00:12:16,213 --> 00:12:19,434
and now I'm heading
to the promised land.

203
00:12:20,957 --> 00:12:22,742
Although I hadn't
quite expected it

204
00:12:22,785 --> 00:12:26,397
to be a small farm
under a freeway.

205
00:12:26,441 --> 00:12:30,401
We're meeting Enzo's special
supplier, Uncle Vincenzo.

206
00:12:30,445 --> 00:12:34,014
Behind his rusty gates I'm
reminded that here in Italy,

207
00:12:34,057 --> 00:12:38,192
treasures are to be found in
the most unlikely locations.

208
00:13:06,002 --> 00:13:09,266
I've eaten San Marzano
tomatoes all around the world,

209
00:13:09,310 --> 00:13:12,748
but the bright,
balanced flavor of these

210
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is like nothing
I've ever tasted.

211
00:13:33,116 --> 00:13:35,510
That's it?

212
00:14:00,883 --> 00:14:03,364
Yeah, no, impossible. Yeah.

213
00:14:12,199 --> 00:14:14,679
Varieties using the
San Marzano name

214
00:14:14,723 --> 00:14:17,944
are grown everywhere from
New Jersey to New Zealand.

215
00:14:17,987 --> 00:14:20,903
But only the tomatoes
grown right here

216
00:14:20,947 --> 00:14:22,949
are fed by the
nutrient-rich soil

217
00:14:22,992 --> 00:14:27,388
gifted by our old friend
looming on the horizon.

218
00:14:54,023 --> 00:14:56,112
Wow. Wow!

219
00:14:58,636 --> 00:15:01,988
After our little shopping
trip, we're back in the city

220
00:15:02,031 --> 00:15:04,904
and finally,
finally, the maestro

221
00:15:04,947 --> 00:15:07,602
is making a pizza for me.

222
00:15:14,435 --> 00:15:17,873
Mass-produced pizza
brands always add sugar,

223
00:15:17,917 --> 00:15:19,396
fat and flavorings,

224
00:15:19,440 --> 00:15:22,878
but in Napoli it's just
water, flour, salt,

225
00:15:22,922 --> 00:15:25,576
yeast, and a lot of skill.

226
00:15:25,620 --> 00:15:27,404
Incredible.

227
00:15:30,799 --> 00:15:32,366
Nice.

228
00:15:32,409 --> 00:15:36,500
The crushed San Marzanos from
Uncle Vincenzo go on first.

229
00:15:38,154 --> 00:15:43,029
Next, the creamy nuggets
of mozzarella di bufala

230
00:15:43,072 --> 00:15:46,162
to counteract the sweet
sharpness of the tomatoes.

231
00:15:48,164 --> 00:15:50,123
And a final flourish

232
00:15:51,559 --> 00:15:53,126
to add saltiness

233
00:15:54,040 --> 00:15:55,258
and fragrance.

234
00:15:55,302 --> 00:15:57,869
And then, in a
matter of moments,

235
00:15:57,913 --> 00:16:00,611
food magic happens.

236
00:16:08,924 --> 00:16:10,230
Incredible.

237
00:16:16,149 --> 00:16:17,541
Oh, my God!

238
00:16:21,676 --> 00:16:23,112
Thank you.

239
00:16:25,071 --> 00:16:27,029
- Mmm!
- Is that not perfect?

240
00:16:27,725 --> 00:16:29,031
It's delicious!

241
00:16:30,206 --> 00:16:32,992
Perfect, perfect, perfect!

242
00:16:33,035 --> 00:16:37,170
Pizza making is one tradition
we all hope will never die out

243
00:16:37,213 --> 00:16:39,128
and that the pizziaoli of Naples

244
00:16:39,172 --> 00:16:41,826
will always keep
the flame of pure,

245
00:16:41,870 --> 00:16:44,307
simple perfection burning.

246
00:17:00,454 --> 00:17:01,759
In Napule.

247
00:17:01,803 --> 00:17:03,979
- In Napule.
- In Napule.

248
00:17:04,023 --> 00:17:06,068
Good!

249
00:17:24,130 --> 00:17:27,133
So, this isn't
what it looks like.

250
00:17:27,176 --> 00:17:29,439
Let me explain. In this city,

251
00:17:29,483 --> 00:17:31,311
it sometimes seems
like everyone's

252
00:17:31,354 --> 00:17:32,703
making up their own rules,

253
00:17:32,747 --> 00:17:36,055
but somehow the
place hangs together.

254
00:17:37,534 --> 00:17:40,537
I'm meeting the man who tries
to keep some order here.

255
00:17:40,581 --> 00:17:44,237
Chief of the Municipal
Police, Captain Capuano.

256
00:17:45,847 --> 00:17:47,109
In true Neapolitan style,

257
00:17:47,153 --> 00:17:48,850
he wants to explain how it works

258
00:17:48,893 --> 00:17:50,765
over a coffee.

259
00:17:58,816 --> 00:18:02,298
The Captain orders three
coffees for the two of us.

260
00:18:02,342 --> 00:18:04,822
I figured he just
really likes coffee.

261
00:18:10,263 --> 00:18:12,352
But paying for one
extra is actually

262
00:18:12,395 --> 00:18:14,963
a hugely important
tradition here in Naples

263
00:18:15,006 --> 00:18:17,357
It's called "suspended coffee"

264
00:18:17,400 --> 00:18:19,359
and when a person
in need shows up,

265
00:18:19,402 --> 00:18:21,404
the coffee-seller
gives them a free drink

266
00:18:21,448 --> 00:18:24,625
that their fellow
citizen paid for earlier.

267
00:18:31,893 --> 00:18:33,242
Cheers.

268
00:18:38,595 --> 00:18:39,944
That's nice.

269
00:18:39,988 --> 00:18:41,816
The people of Naples
have unofficial

270
00:18:41,859 --> 00:18:45,211
ways of helping each other
out that go back centuries.

271
00:18:45,254 --> 00:18:47,343
They "suspend"
essentials like coffee,

272
00:18:47,387 --> 00:18:49,171
food and even toys

273
00:18:49,215 --> 00:18:51,434
for families that
can't afford them.

274
00:18:51,478 --> 00:18:54,785
Campania is the
second-poorest region in Italy

275
00:18:54,829 --> 00:18:56,961
and community help is
the only safety net

276
00:18:57,005 --> 00:18:59,268
some people have.

277
00:18:59,312 --> 00:19:01,966
When that fails, the
powerful Neapolitan Mafia,

278
00:19:02,010 --> 00:19:04,099
here known as the Camorra,

279
00:19:04,143 --> 00:19:06,667
is only too ready to swoop in.

280
00:19:33,563 --> 00:19:35,086
Poverty and crime has always

281
00:19:35,130 --> 00:19:36,914
been part of life in this city,

282
00:19:36,958 --> 00:19:40,222
but in 1960s an experiment
to improve things

283
00:19:40,266 --> 00:19:43,138
went badly wrong.

284
00:19:43,182 --> 00:19:45,227
Five miles from the city center,

285
00:19:45,271 --> 00:19:46,489
a new world was built.

286
00:19:46,533 --> 00:19:50,189
It was called Scampia.

287
00:19:50,232 --> 00:19:52,234
The poorest Neapolitans
were moved out

288
00:19:52,278 --> 00:19:53,366
of those dark slums

289
00:19:53,409 --> 00:19:55,846
into futuristic new homes.

290
00:19:55,890 --> 00:19:59,328
But the dream quickly
turned into a nightmare.

291
00:19:59,372 --> 00:20:02,070
The place had neither
jobs nor transport

292
00:20:02,113 --> 00:20:03,985
and people here were trapped.

293
00:20:04,028 --> 00:20:05,508
Camorra crime gangs stepped in

294
00:20:05,552 --> 00:20:07,075
where the state had failed.

295
00:20:07,118 --> 00:20:09,033
Drugs were sold on the streets

296
00:20:09,077 --> 00:20:12,863
and things got so bad, even
the police stayed away.

297
00:20:12,907 --> 00:20:16,215
Ordinary residents were
caught in the middle.

298
00:20:17,694 --> 00:20:19,043
More recently, a new chapter

299
00:20:19,087 --> 00:20:20,654
in the neighborhood's
history began

300
00:20:20,697 --> 00:20:23,091
when hundreds of
nomadic travelers called

301
00:20:23,134 --> 00:20:25,615
the Romani people arrived.

302
00:20:29,010 --> 00:20:32,056
They came from Eastern
Europe and set up camp

303
00:20:32,100 --> 00:20:33,797
under a freeway here.

304
00:20:38,324 --> 00:20:40,848
The Romani sought a
better life in Italy

305
00:20:40,891 --> 00:20:45,940
despite no access to running
water or electricity.

306
00:21:05,960 --> 00:21:08,397
All across this neighborhood
thousands of people

307
00:21:08,441 --> 00:21:12,009
like Samantha saw their
lives going to waste,

308
00:21:12,053 --> 00:21:13,489
unfairly labeled as criminals,

309
00:21:13,533 --> 00:21:16,405
while the authorities
turned their backs.

310
00:21:16,449 --> 00:21:18,102
But still, this is Napoli and

311
00:21:18,146 --> 00:21:20,409
people look out for each other

312
00:21:20,453 --> 00:21:23,630
in the most creative ways.

313
00:21:23,673 --> 00:21:27,634
So, the kitchen was a
very powerful instrument

314
00:21:27,677 --> 00:21:31,942
to overcome stereotypes
but also to create work.

315
00:21:31,986 --> 00:21:33,117
Right.

316
00:21:33,161 --> 00:21:36,338
We decided to make
a small revolution

317
00:21:36,382 --> 00:21:38,340
through the kitchen.

318
00:21:38,384 --> 00:21:40,951
In a hut on the edge of Scampia,

319
00:21:40,995 --> 00:21:43,127
local activist, Emma
and her friends realized

320
00:21:43,171 --> 00:21:45,042
that they had a
talented community

321
00:21:45,086 --> 00:21:46,827
of Neapolitan and Romani women,

322
00:21:46,870 --> 00:21:49,743
each with unique food traditions

323
00:21:49,786 --> 00:21:52,702
and decided to take matters
into their own hands.

324
00:21:52,746 --> 00:21:56,184
In the south we're
used to fighting,

325
00:21:56,227 --> 00:21:58,969
with or without
the institutions.

326
00:21:59,013 --> 00:22:02,190
I think this is a very
southern Italian quality.

327
00:22:02,233 --> 00:22:05,889
That small idea grew into
something astonishing.

328
00:22:05,933 --> 00:22:07,978
The hut is long gone.

329
00:22:08,022 --> 00:22:11,417
It's now a restaurant and
catering company called Chiku

330
00:22:11,460 --> 00:22:13,897
based in a large,
disused building here.

331
00:22:13,941 --> 00:22:17,031
Samantha, whom I met
over at the Romani camp,

332
00:22:17,074 --> 00:22:19,033
got a job as a cook here.

333
00:22:19,076 --> 00:22:23,342
Her recipes proved so popular
they now star on the menu.

334
00:22:50,586 --> 00:22:53,676
Customers now come to
Scampia from across the city

335
00:22:53,720 --> 00:22:55,591
to taste the delicious fusions

336
00:22:55,635 --> 00:22:58,768
of Neapolitan and Romani
food they create here.

337
00:23:09,039 --> 00:23:11,433
This place receives
no government help,

338
00:23:11,477 --> 00:23:13,019
but the success of
the social enterprise

339
00:23:13,043 --> 00:23:15,698
allows them to also
offer childcare

340
00:23:15,742 --> 00:23:19,963
and education to all the
residents of Scampia.

341
00:23:31,453 --> 00:23:33,890
This neighborhood still
has huge problems,

342
00:23:33,934 --> 00:23:36,763
but in the face of
unimaginable bleakness

343
00:23:36,806 --> 00:23:39,287
the volunteers at
Chiku have opened up

344
00:23:39,330 --> 00:23:41,376
a space to mix
food with talent...

345
00:23:41,420 --> 00:23:43,422
Delicious! Delicious!

346
00:23:43,465 --> 00:23:45,380
And create hope.

347
00:23:45,424 --> 00:23:49,776
This is just the most wonderful
experiment, but reality now

348
00:23:49,819 --> 00:23:52,735
which is that you've
taken two cultures

349
00:23:52,779 --> 00:23:55,172
and brought them together

350
00:23:55,216 --> 00:23:57,610
with a frying pan.

351
00:24:13,756 --> 00:24:15,758
The greatest joy of traveling

352
00:24:15,802 --> 00:24:18,457
is that sometimes you
discover a place by chance

353
00:24:18,500 --> 00:24:20,502
and it winds up staying with you

354
00:24:20,546 --> 00:24:22,069
for the rest of your life.

355
00:24:22,112 --> 00:24:24,593
14 years ago, my
late wife Kate and I

356
00:24:24,637 --> 00:24:26,682
took a ferry from Naples
to the island of Ischia,

357
00:24:26,726 --> 00:24:29,642
just an hour away

358
00:24:29,685 --> 00:24:32,253
One night we went to a
family-run restaurant

359
00:24:32,296 --> 00:24:35,082
where they served food that
we never expected to have

360
00:24:35,125 --> 00:24:38,564
on an island in
the Gulf of Naples.

361
00:24:38,607 --> 00:24:40,522
I try to come back
whenever I'm lucky enough

362
00:24:40,566 --> 00:24:42,481
to have the chance

363
00:24:42,524 --> 00:24:44,657
and the family's eldest, Silvia,

364
00:24:44,700 --> 00:24:47,137
is meeting me at the dock.

365
00:24:47,181 --> 00:24:48,356
Silvia

366
00:24:48,399 --> 00:24:50,140
- Ciao.
- Welcome.

367
00:24:50,184 --> 00:24:52,752
- Welcome to our island.
- Nice to see you.

368
00:24:52,795 --> 00:24:54,710
Now we start your adventure.

369
00:24:54,754 --> 00:24:57,191
- Are you ready?
- I'm ready!

370
00:24:59,672 --> 00:25:01,848
Now you may well be thinking,

371
00:25:01,891 --> 00:25:04,328
"time for a beautiful
drive along the coast

372
00:25:04,372 --> 00:25:06,548
for some tasty seafood."

373
00:25:06,592 --> 00:25:08,507
But no.

374
00:25:08,550 --> 00:25:11,379
This restaurant
stands defiantly away

375
00:25:11,422 --> 00:25:13,468
from the seaside crowds,

376
00:25:13,512 --> 00:25:15,426
through the woods,

377
00:25:15,470 --> 00:25:18,734
and halfway up a mountain.

378
00:25:23,043 --> 00:25:26,220
Ischia is one of a handful
of volcanic islands

379
00:25:26,263 --> 00:25:28,004
just off Naples.

380
00:25:28,048 --> 00:25:30,572
Tourists started
coming here in the '60s

381
00:25:30,616 --> 00:25:32,182
to enjoy the thermal waters,

382
00:25:32,226 --> 00:25:34,533
but before that it was
pirates and foreign armies

383
00:25:34,576 --> 00:25:38,232
washing up on the shore.

384
00:25:38,275 --> 00:25:39,538
Welcome.

385
00:25:39,581 --> 00:25:41,714
So island families
chose to live up

386
00:25:41,757 --> 00:25:43,759
in the safety of the mountains

387
00:25:43,803 --> 00:25:46,414
and instead of catching fish,

388
00:25:46,457 --> 00:25:49,417
they caught rabbits.

389
00:25:49,460 --> 00:25:51,811
The place is overrun with them

390
00:25:51,854 --> 00:25:56,859
and coniglio al'ischitana
is famous across Italy.

391
00:25:56,903 --> 00:25:59,862
In the States we
rarely eat rabbit now,

392
00:25:59,906 --> 00:26:02,561
but the delicious, lean meat
draws the crowds up here

393
00:26:02,604 --> 00:26:06,303
to this secluded restaurant.

394
00:26:06,347 --> 00:26:08,001
But before we can eat it...

395
00:26:08,044 --> 00:26:10,569
- Do you want me to open this?
- Yes, please.

396
00:26:10,612 --> 00:26:13,006
We have to catch it.

397
00:26:16,966 --> 00:26:19,142
Above the restaurant,
wild rabbits are caught

398
00:26:19,186 --> 00:26:22,058
with an ingenious and
sustainable method

399
00:26:22,102 --> 00:26:25,584
the islanders have been
using for centuries.

400
00:26:27,890 --> 00:26:30,066
A pit is dug close
to the rabbit hole

401
00:26:30,110 --> 00:26:33,287
and tasty food is thrown
down to tempt them out.

402
00:26:33,330 --> 00:26:35,898
Fragrant leaves and berries
are specially selected

403
00:26:35,942 --> 00:26:38,031
to add flavor to
the rabbit's meat.

404
00:26:38,074 --> 00:26:41,687
- The taste of the meat...
- Comes through into the meat.

405
00:26:41,730 --> 00:26:43,819
The natural way.

406
00:26:43,863 --> 00:26:46,039
Then, all you've
got to do is hop in,

407
00:26:46,082 --> 00:26:50,521
catch one and, I'll
spare you the rest...

408
00:26:50,565 --> 00:26:53,220
Silvia's little
brother, Agostino,

409
00:26:53,263 --> 00:26:54,874
runs the kitchen
at Il Foccolare.

410
00:26:54,917 --> 00:26:57,746
He's brilliant at bringing
out the best flavours

411
00:26:57,790 --> 00:26:59,182
from the wild game here.

412
00:26:59,226 --> 00:27:00,836
He's worked at the
finest restaurants

413
00:27:00,880 --> 00:27:02,272
in New York and London.

414
00:27:02,316 --> 00:27:04,840
But he came home
to apply his skills

415
00:27:04,884 --> 00:27:08,627
to traditional rustic cooking.

416
00:27:08,670 --> 00:27:10,629
The last time I saw
him, I ran into him

417
00:27:10,672 --> 00:27:11,736
on the streets of New York.

418
00:27:11,760 --> 00:27:14,197
-Yeah -He was in a bad way.

419
00:27:14,241 --> 00:27:15,546
No, I'm kidding.

420
00:27:15,590 --> 00:27:17,897
- That was a long time ago.
- Yeah.

421
00:27:17,940 --> 00:27:20,334
But I love rabbit, I
cook it at home a lot

422
00:27:20,377 --> 00:27:22,641
and the thing about rabbit...

423
00:27:23,816 --> 00:27:25,687
No, no, no, no.

424
00:27:26,993 --> 00:27:29,996
Because this rabbit is wild.

425
00:27:30,866 --> 00:27:33,347
This is fine, we put olive oil.

426
00:27:35,654 --> 00:27:37,568
Garlic, this style

427
00:27:37,612 --> 00:27:40,659
And after we start
to put rabbit.

428
00:27:40,702 --> 00:27:42,835
OK?

429
00:27:49,580 --> 00:27:51,974
The juice.

430
00:27:52,845 --> 00:27:54,716
You can smell.

431
00:27:54,760 --> 00:27:58,241
I like that you put the
garlic in as a whole.

432
00:27:58,285 --> 00:28:00,853
Now white wine.

433
00:28:03,159 --> 00:28:04,595
It's beautiful.

434
00:28:04,639 --> 00:28:08,382
The ingredients are very
simple, tomato, herbs, garlic,

435
00:28:08,425 --> 00:28:11,907
white wine, olive oil.

436
00:28:11,951 --> 00:28:14,693
Knowing how to make
the best of what you

437
00:28:14,736 --> 00:28:16,172
have is vital up here.

438
00:28:16,216 --> 00:28:18,000
While the rabbit cooks,
I notice something

439
00:28:18,044 --> 00:28:19,219
I've never seen before,

440
00:28:19,262 --> 00:28:21,134
the Nonna of the
family, Loretta,

441
00:28:21,177 --> 00:28:22,483
is showing her grandchildren

442
00:28:22,526 --> 00:28:26,226
how to tie tomatoes
to local vines.

443
00:28:43,765 --> 00:28:45,245
Today the restaurant is closed,

444
00:28:45,288 --> 00:28:48,204
but I'm honored to be
invited to family lunch.

445
00:28:48,248 --> 00:28:50,293
This is the first time the
family has come together

446
00:28:50,337 --> 00:28:52,905
since their father
passed away earlier

447
00:28:52,948 --> 00:28:56,212
this year during lockdown.

448
00:28:56,256 --> 00:28:57,648
A toast!

449
00:28:57,692 --> 00:28:59,520
- To dad.
- To life.

450
00:28:59,563 --> 00:29:01,087
It's an emotional time,

451
00:29:01,130 --> 00:29:05,395
but also one of celebration.

452
00:29:05,439 --> 00:29:06,570
Oh, my God!

453
00:29:06,614 --> 00:29:08,398
As delicious as the food is,

454
00:29:08,442 --> 00:29:10,836
traditional cooking
like this also tells you

455
00:29:10,879 --> 00:29:12,489
the story of a place,

456
00:29:12,533 --> 00:29:16,102
how they lived and what
was important to them.

457
00:29:18,017 --> 00:29:20,236
For as long as
anyone can remember,

458
00:29:20,280 --> 00:29:22,064
there's been a strict hierarchy

459
00:29:22,108 --> 00:29:24,937
to how Ischia's
rabbit is served.

460
00:29:35,599 --> 00:29:39,516
-The head of our family.-You're
very kind, thank you.

461
00:29:57,665 --> 00:30:00,450
Just one?

462
00:30:00,494 --> 00:30:02,844
Sadly, in this
traditional hierarchy,

463
00:30:02,888 --> 00:30:04,977
the mother of the family is left

464
00:30:05,020 --> 00:30:07,327
with the bony neck and skull.

465
00:30:09,546 --> 00:30:11,505
The neck side, right?

466
00:30:16,423 --> 00:30:18,991
Traditional food
like this connects us

467
00:30:19,034 --> 00:30:21,863
and makes us part
of a bigger story.

468
00:30:25,519 --> 00:30:28,130
She's my daughter.

469
00:30:28,174 --> 00:30:31,481
That's why, even today,
families across Ischia

470
00:30:31,525 --> 00:30:32,874
sit down every Sunday

471
00:30:32,918 --> 00:30:36,835
to enjoy a rabbit
in a pot together.

472
00:30:47,280 --> 00:30:50,370
As if the awe-inspiring
majesty of Vesuvius

473
00:30:50,413 --> 00:30:52,894
and volcanic islands
aren't enough,

474
00:30:52,938 --> 00:30:55,854
Campania has one
final crowning glory.

475
00:30:55,897 --> 00:30:58,160
Just a half hour
outside of Naples,

476
00:30:58,204 --> 00:31:00,684
some of the most famous
and fabled landscape

477
00:31:00,728 --> 00:31:02,904
on earth begins,

478
00:31:02,948 --> 00:31:04,558
the Amalfi Coast.

479
00:31:04,601 --> 00:31:07,822
It's the backdrop for a
thousand romantic movies

480
00:31:07,866 --> 00:31:10,129
and once-in-a-lifetime
vacations,

481
00:31:10,172 --> 00:31:12,435
and home to a
restaurant where I had

482
00:31:12,479 --> 00:31:15,177
a simple zucchini and pasta dish

483
00:31:15,221 --> 00:31:18,180
that honestly, changed my life.

484
00:31:18,224 --> 00:31:21,662
I've been longing to come back.

485
00:31:21,705 --> 00:31:24,056
The family have agreed
to show me how it's done.

486
00:31:24,099 --> 00:31:26,580
My wife has come to join me

487
00:31:26,623 --> 00:31:27,798
and we're in one of the most

488
00:31:27,842 --> 00:31:29,713
beautiful places in the world.

489
00:31:29,757 --> 00:31:31,933
What could possibly go wrong?

490
00:31:36,938 --> 00:31:39,027
OK, so there's this
once-in-a-decade

491
00:31:39,071 --> 00:31:40,376
storm forecast

492
00:31:40,420 --> 00:31:42,813
and everyone's taking shelter,

493
00:31:44,380 --> 00:31:46,295
but that doesn't stop
the morning delivery

494
00:31:46,339 --> 00:31:48,994
coming down from the family's
farm up in the hills.

495
00:31:49,037 --> 00:31:52,214
Every morsel grown by
the father, Peppino.

496
00:31:52,258 --> 00:31:53,694
Hello.

497
00:31:53,737 --> 00:31:55,000
Pride of place this season is

498
00:31:55,043 --> 00:31:57,393
the star of my favorite dish,

499
00:31:57,437 --> 00:31:59,700
zucchini.

500
00:31:59,743 --> 00:32:01,006
The first time I had this dish,

501
00:32:01,049 --> 00:32:03,095
I insinuated myself
into the kitchen

502
00:32:03,138 --> 00:32:04,400
to wheedle out the recipe

503
00:32:04,444 --> 00:32:06,750
from Peppino's
daughter, Antonia,

504
00:32:06,794 --> 00:32:08,535
who runs the place.

505
00:32:08,578 --> 00:32:11,930
We now make spaghetti alla
Nerano at home every week

506
00:32:11,973 --> 00:32:14,584
but it's never as good.

507
00:32:14,628 --> 00:32:17,239
Chef Tomasso is giving
me a masterclass

508
00:32:17,283 --> 00:32:19,720
and my wife, Felicity,
has even flown in

509
00:32:19,763 --> 00:32:21,200
to make sure we get it right.

510
00:32:21,243 --> 00:32:23,115
We came here two years ago,

511
00:32:23,158 --> 00:32:24,986
the reason we're
in this restaurant,

512
00:32:25,030 --> 00:32:27,249
- right?
- Yeah, we've made it everyday.

513
00:32:27,293 --> 00:32:29,034
Practically everyday, yeah.

514
00:32:29,077 --> 00:32:32,341
- It's a favorite, it's amazing.
- We love this dish.

515
00:32:32,385 --> 00:32:34,604
Everybody always thinks
there's garlic in it or onion,

516
00:32:34,648 --> 00:32:36,955
but it's just the
sweetness of the zucchini.

517
00:32:36,998 --> 00:32:38,565
I know.

518
00:32:38,608 --> 00:32:40,741
- Oh wait, he put it in.
- Oh, we missed it.

519
00:32:40,784 --> 00:32:43,091
-Sorry.-We're so unprofessional.

520
00:32:43,135 --> 00:32:46,790
The chopped zucchini are
fried in sunflower oil,

521
00:32:46,834 --> 00:32:48,879
and that's our first mistake.

522
00:32:48,923 --> 00:32:50,664
We need about three gallons more

523
00:32:50,707 --> 00:32:53,232
than we've been using at home.

524
00:32:53,275 --> 00:32:55,451
It's frustrating to see him
do it like this with ease

525
00:32:55,495 --> 00:32:59,673
when we've been laboriously
frying them in a shallow vessel.

526
00:32:59,716 --> 00:33:01,936
- I know, it's so sad.
- Hours of our lives.

527
00:33:01,980 --> 00:33:04,330
- Literally hours.
- I know.

528
00:33:06,854 --> 00:33:09,944
Once fried, Tomasso leaves
the zucchini overnight

529
00:33:09,988 --> 00:33:12,077
to soften up.

530
00:33:14,296 --> 00:33:15,689
With oil and basil?

531
00:33:17,647 --> 00:33:18,822
No.

532
00:33:18,866 --> 00:33:20,409
I feel like we've been
doing a lot wrong.

533
00:33:20,433 --> 00:33:22,652
All wrong.

534
00:33:24,002 --> 00:33:26,482
Tomasso then heats
up the zucchini.

535
00:33:30,269 --> 00:33:32,662
Aw. Look at that
amazing liquid.

536
00:33:32,706 --> 00:33:34,316
It's beautiful, yeah.

537
00:33:34,360 --> 00:33:39,191
And finally, a whole ingredient
they didn't even tell us about.

538
00:33:39,234 --> 00:33:41,889
See, they put butter.

539
00:33:41,932 --> 00:33:45,023
- So basically...
- I asked your sister

540
00:33:45,066 --> 00:33:48,591
two years ago, I said,
"Do they put butter?"

541
00:33:48,635 --> 00:33:50,419
Where is Antonia?

542
00:33:53,118 --> 00:33:55,555
Yes a little bit of butter.

543
00:33:55,598 --> 00:33:57,426
You didn't tell me that.

544
00:33:57,470 --> 00:33:59,298
-I'm so upset.

545
00:33:59,341 --> 00:34:01,213
No! No!

546
00:34:01,256 --> 00:34:04,085
I won't hold it against you.

547
00:34:04,129 --> 00:34:07,784
- You've moved on.
- It's my mistake.

548
00:34:07,828 --> 00:34:10,091
- Oh, my God.
- Oh, look at that.

549
00:34:10,135 --> 00:34:12,180
OK maybe it wasn't deliberate,

550
00:34:12,224 --> 00:34:13,703
but then why wouldn't you want

551
00:34:13,747 --> 00:34:16,880
to keep a recipe this
good to yourself?

552
00:34:16,924 --> 00:34:20,101
People come here from all
around the world just for that.

553
00:34:20,145 --> 00:34:22,625
- Yeah.
- That's crazy.

554
00:34:26,412 --> 00:34:29,154
- Round of applause.
- It's too exciting.

555
00:34:29,197 --> 00:34:32,113
- Oh, my God, look at that!
- And on an induction hob.

556
00:34:32,157 --> 00:34:34,072
20 minutes of ecstasy.

557
00:34:35,595 --> 00:34:38,206
Mmm! Oh, my God.

558
00:34:38,250 --> 00:34:40,208
Even better than I remember.

559
00:34:40,252 --> 00:34:44,517
Such a simple dish, but
you make it so beautifully.

560
00:34:44,560 --> 00:34:46,736
One of the best things
I've had in my life.

561
00:34:46,780 --> 00:34:49,043
- Thanks for everything.
- Thank you so much.

562
00:34:49,087 --> 00:34:51,089
Antonia, thank you so much.

563
00:34:51,132 --> 00:34:53,003
Oh, look at the wind.

564
00:34:53,047 --> 00:34:55,310
- The sea is almost black.
- Look at it.

565
00:34:55,354 --> 00:34:57,921
We'll just be
inside eating carbs.

566
00:34:57,965 --> 00:34:59,749
This is great.

567
00:35:01,447 --> 00:35:04,711
Any other day this
sun-drenched spot is buzzing

568
00:35:04,754 --> 00:35:06,626
with diners thrilled
to be eating in one

569
00:35:06,669 --> 00:35:08,889
of the most beautiful
places on earth,

570
00:35:08,932 --> 00:35:10,369
but as the storm clouds roll in

571
00:35:10,412 --> 00:35:12,327
for the first time this year,

572
00:35:12,371 --> 00:35:14,286
every single one of the
expected 300 customers

573
00:35:14,329 --> 00:35:17,289
today has canceled.

574
00:35:21,206 --> 00:35:24,122
By evening, Felicity,
the film crew and I

575
00:35:24,165 --> 00:35:26,820
are the only guests.

576
00:35:26,863 --> 00:35:29,127
Rather than allow all
this incredible food

577
00:35:29,170 --> 00:35:30,519
to go to waste,

578
00:35:30,563 --> 00:35:32,391
they're making a feast for all

579
00:35:32,434 --> 00:35:35,437
the brave souls still here.

580
00:35:35,481 --> 00:35:38,136
While the kitchen
team works serenely,

581
00:35:39,528 --> 00:35:42,270
the film crew help
me capture some views

582
00:35:42,314 --> 00:35:43,663
of the famous Amalfi Coast

583
00:35:43,706 --> 00:35:47,014
you won't normally
see on a postcard.

584
00:35:47,057 --> 00:35:49,147
Isn't it so gorgeous?

585
00:35:49,190 --> 00:35:51,627
- Look at this!
- I know.

586
00:35:51,671 --> 00:35:53,238
- Whoa!
- Yeah.

587
00:35:53,281 --> 00:35:56,154
Until nature sends us
all running back inside.

588
00:35:57,198 --> 00:35:58,808
Hail storm.

589
00:36:05,467 --> 00:36:09,297
It was like hail the
size of Amalfi lemons.

590
00:36:09,341 --> 00:36:12,170
It just came down. Holy shit!

591
00:36:13,780 --> 00:36:16,304
You know, I've had
dreams about having

592
00:36:16,348 --> 00:36:18,045
this place all to myself,

593
00:36:18,088 --> 00:36:22,223
being brought platters of
beans, mushrooms and olives

594
00:36:22,267 --> 00:36:23,485
from the family farm,

595
00:36:23,529 --> 00:36:25,792
fried squid, zucchini flowers

596
00:36:25,835 --> 00:36:27,228
and mussels au gratin.

597
00:36:27,272 --> 00:36:29,012
But I didn't expect it to be

598
00:36:29,056 --> 00:36:32,190
in quite these circumstances.

599
00:36:32,233 --> 00:36:34,453
Here in Campania,
nature can be cruel

600
00:36:34,496 --> 00:36:38,892
but it can also be
really, very kind indeed.

601
00:36:51,296 --> 00:36:52,819
The storm has passed.

602
00:36:52,862 --> 00:36:55,213
The natural order
has been restored

603
00:36:55,256 --> 00:36:59,434
and It's another heavenly
day here on the Amalfi Coast.

604
00:37:02,568 --> 00:37:05,353
I've traveled along to
the little town of Minori

605
00:37:05,397 --> 00:37:08,095
known for one of the most
beloved desserts in Italy,

606
00:37:08,138 --> 00:37:12,708
a blast of southern sunshine
in a creamy light cake.

607
00:37:12,752 --> 00:37:17,322
It's called Delizia al
Limone, or Lemon Delight,

608
00:37:17,365 --> 00:37:20,542
and to make it, you need
to head for the hills.

609
00:37:31,205 --> 00:37:33,338
Yes, incredible.

610
00:37:33,381 --> 00:37:35,557
Up in the lemon
groves above Minori

611
00:37:35,601 --> 00:37:37,429
I'm meeting the
man who introduced

612
00:37:37,472 --> 00:37:41,171
the unique Amalfi
Lemons to the dessert

613
00:37:41,215 --> 00:37:42,695
and became one of the most

614
00:37:42,738 --> 00:37:44,958
famous pastry chefs
in Italy as a result,

615
00:37:45,001 --> 00:37:47,395
Sal de Riso.

616
00:38:07,328 --> 00:38:09,287
Yeah, no, it's incredible.

617
00:38:14,683 --> 00:38:17,512
These lucky lemons
are an ancient hybrid

618
00:38:17,556 --> 00:38:19,558
of bitter and
sweet citrus fruits

619
00:38:19,601 --> 00:38:22,952
and the locals put them
in everything they can.

620
00:38:25,172 --> 00:38:27,870
Thank you. Cheers.

621
00:38:38,925 --> 00:38:41,449
We head down to Sal's
shop on the shore

622
00:38:41,493 --> 00:38:43,146
where every year
thousands of tourists

623
00:38:43,190 --> 00:38:45,714
take a break from the
natural wonders of the coast

624
00:38:45,758 --> 00:38:49,109
to gasp at some man-made
culinary marvels.

625
00:38:54,897 --> 00:38:56,377
Beautiful!

626
00:38:56,421 --> 00:38:58,161
At a time when Italian desserts

627
00:38:58,205 --> 00:39:01,164
were dominated by northern
and French creations,

628
00:39:01,208 --> 00:39:03,776
Sal put the south of
Italy firmly on the map

629
00:39:03,819 --> 00:39:06,256
by capturing the
essence of this place

630
00:39:06,300 --> 00:39:07,823
in one particular cake,

631
00:39:07,867 --> 00:39:10,086
Lemon Delight.

632
00:39:11,827 --> 00:39:14,177
So, we know where
the lemons come from

633
00:39:14,221 --> 00:39:16,441
but how do you get the delight?

634
00:39:20,183 --> 00:39:22,185
Oh Jesus, alright.

635
00:39:22,229 --> 00:39:24,449
Of course! Cream.

636
00:39:30,324 --> 00:39:32,413
Three creams, in fact.

637
00:39:36,199 --> 00:39:40,073
And for good measure, you
fill the cake with cream.

638
00:39:41,291 --> 00:39:42,467
You just stick it right in.

639
00:39:42,510 --> 00:39:45,470
And when the creams are mixed

640
00:39:48,734 --> 00:39:51,301
you add more cream.

641
00:39:51,345 --> 00:39:55,784
And more cream.
And more cream.

642
00:39:55,828 --> 00:39:58,570
A splash of lemon liqueur.

643
00:40:01,529 --> 00:40:03,575
Oh, my God!

644
00:40:10,146 --> 00:40:13,933
But how does he get that
delicate, smooth coating?

645
00:40:17,327 --> 00:40:19,025
- Wow!
- No!

646
00:40:19,068 --> 00:40:21,897
Really?

647
00:40:21,941 --> 00:40:25,771
I thought you'd do something
incredibly elegant but, yeah...

648
00:40:25,814 --> 00:40:27,990
A little swirl of
cream to finish

649
00:40:28,034 --> 00:40:31,211
and a pinch of
Amalfi lemon zest.

650
00:40:44,267 --> 00:40:46,792
Okay, Okay.

651
00:40:51,840 --> 00:40:55,975
I love lemon, I love
lemon, but that's like...

652
00:41:03,504 --> 00:41:07,377
Look how beautiful
the sea is here.

653
00:41:07,421 --> 00:41:10,685
Well, we've had coffee
and now dessert,

654
00:41:10,729 --> 00:41:13,514
so what better way to end
my journey to Campania

655
00:41:13,558 --> 00:41:15,647
than with a glass
of local limoncello

656
00:41:15,690 --> 00:41:18,214
made with Amalfi Lemons,

657
00:41:18,258 --> 00:41:19,999
of course.

658
00:41:33,534 --> 00:41:35,014
OK.

659
00:41:35,057 --> 00:41:37,799
I'm sure most of us
have had a shot or three

660
00:41:37,843 --> 00:41:39,627
of this with friends,

661
00:41:39,671 --> 00:41:41,629
probably after
gorging on Campania's

662
00:41:41,673 --> 00:41:43,501
other great contribution

663
00:41:43,544 --> 00:41:45,503
to the world, pizza.

664
00:41:45,546 --> 00:41:47,635
Wherever we are, the
food of this place

665
00:41:47,679 --> 00:41:49,855
can't help but
bring us together.

666
00:41:49,898 --> 00:41:52,161
Thanks for everything,
you're amazing.

667
00:41:52,205 --> 00:41:53,249
Thank you.

668
00:41:53,293 --> 00:41:55,034
- Cheers.
- Cheers.

669
00:41:55,077 --> 00:41:56,992
Cheers. Cin, cin.


