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From the eastern end of the Great Wall,

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China's coast spans 14,500 kilometres

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and more than 5,000 years of history.

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This is the area which shows
the greatest contrast

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between China's past and its future.

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Today China's eastern seaboard

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is home to 700 million people,

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packed into some of the most
dazzling hi-tech cities on earth.

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Yet these crowded shores remain hugely
important for a wealth of wildlife.

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Now, as ancient traditions
mingle with new aspirations,

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is there any room at all for wildlife
on China's crowded shores?

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In northern China's
Zhalong Nature Reserve,

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a pair of red-crowned cranes
have staked out their nesting territory

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in the stubble of
a commercially managed reed bed.

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For centuries,
cranes have been revered in China

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as symbols of longevity.

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Their statues were placed
next to the Emperor's throne.

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The cranes have cause to celebrate.

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This chick is a sign of hope
in difficult times.

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Red-crowned cranes are one of
the world's most endangered species.

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Over the last century,

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China has lost nearly half
of its coastal wetlands

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and most of what remains is managed for
the benefit of people, not wildlife.

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A few months from now,

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this chick and its parents will face
a long migration south

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to escape the harsh northern winter.

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Their route will take them along a coast

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which has been greatly affected
by human activity.

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Along their journey,
the cranes will be joined

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by many thousands
of other migrating birds.

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All heading south across the Bohai Gulf

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and along the shores of
the Yellow and East China Seas,

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some even reaching as far as
the South China Sea

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in search of a safe winter haven.

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The annual bird migration has been
going on for thousands of years.

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Here at Mount Jinping
on China's northeast coast,

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there is surprising evidence

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that people have lived here
almost as long.

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Seven thousand years ago,

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members of the Shao Hao tribe
carved magical symbols

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representing significant elements
of their daily lives.

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The petroglyphs show wheat sheaves
connected by lines to human figures,

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the first known recordings of
cultivation in China.

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Familiar with the spectacle
of yearly bird migrations,

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the Shao Hao people chose
a symbol of a bird as their totem.

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Mount Jinping lies near
the Shandong peninsula,

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an important wintering site
for migrant birds,

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and even today there are still
communities along this coastline

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who retain a special affinity
with their local birdlife.

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Yandun Jiao village,

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on the north-eastern shore
of the peninsula,

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is famous for its traditional
seaweed-thatched cottages.

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On a chilly morning in early spring,

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Mr and Mrs Qu venture out at first light

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armed with the traditional seaside
accessories of bucket and spade.

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As the Qus head down into the harbour,

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a flock of whooper swans,

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known affectionately here
as "winter angels",

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are waking out in the bay.

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The Qus and their neighbours
search for tube holes

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in the mud at low tide,

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the sign of cockles and razor shells
hidden deep below.

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While gathering shellfish
is a popular pastime,

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the main business of Yandun Jiao
happens further out at sea.

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As the boats set out,
with Mr Qu on board,

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the swans set a parallel course.

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The whole of the bay is
a gigantic seaweed farm.

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The men work all day cleaning
and tending the kelp fronds

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that are grown on ropes linked to
a vast armada of buoys.

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The swans eat native seaweeds
growing on the surface ropes

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rather than the valuable crop of kelp,

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so they do no harm
to the commercial operation.

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In the afternoon,
as the wind picks up out at sea,

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the workers and swans return to shore.

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While the culture
of seeking balance with nature

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goes back a long way in China,

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it is rare to see such harmonious
relationships on China's crowded coast.

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As evening draws on,

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the Qu family prepare
their evening meal of cockles,

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steamed bread and seaweed.

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Leftovers are given to
the village children to feed the swans.

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It's fun for the kids and provides

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an extra energy boost for the birds
as they face another cold night.

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The swans have been using
this sheltered bay

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at as a winter refuge
for many generations.

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As long as the tradition
of respect for nature persists,

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this remarkable association between
the Yandun Jiao community

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and their winter angels
looks set to continue.

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Out in the Bohai Gulf,
northeast of the swan village,

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a small rocky island provides a quiet
resting spot for migrating birds.

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But Shedao Island has hidden dangers.

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Pallas' pit vipers trapped here
6,000 years ago by rising sea levels

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have evolved a sinister lifestyle.

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For 10 months of the year

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there is nothing substantial to eat
on the island,

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so the reptiles conserve their energy
by barely moving at all.

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As the sun warms their rocky home,

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the snakes climb up
into the bushes and trees.

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But they aren't here to sunbathe.

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More and more vipers appear

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until virtually every perch
where a bird might land

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has been booby-trapped.

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Then the waiting game begins.

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The serpents' camouflage is remarkable,

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but so are the birds' reactions,

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as this high-speed shot reveals.

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The birds will only stay on the island
for a couple of weeks.

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But although the snakes
have been starving for months,

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their only hope of bagging a meal
is to be patient

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and sit tight.

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The slightest miscalculation

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and the snake is left with
a mouthful of feathers.

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The dropped meal is tracked down
mainly by smell,

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the viper using its forked tongue

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to taste the air until
it is close enough to see its quarry.

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The final challenge is to swallow a meal
that's twice the size of its head.

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It does so by dislocating its jaws
and positioning its prey

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so the beak is pointing backwards.

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For the reptiles,
this time of plenty is all too brief.

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In a couple of weeks,
the migration will be over

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and the birds will have moved on.

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This could be the snake's last meal
for six months.

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But it isn't just islands

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that experience cycles
of feast and famine.

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The sea, too, has its seasons,

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a fact well known to fishing communities
along the neighbouring coasts.

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In Chuwang harbour,

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the start of a new fishing season
provides the excuse for a massive party.

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But for boat owner Mr Zhao,

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it's a day of prayer
as well as celebration.

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Zhao hopes that by presenting gifts
and showing respect to the sea goddess,

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he can help ensure a prosperous
and safe year ahead

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for him and his crew.

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Meanwhile, drums, firecrackers and
fireworks reflect the ancient belief

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that loud noises will frighten off
dangerous sea devils and bad fortune.

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Occupying centre stage
is a representation of the sea dragon,

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mythical ruler of water and weather.

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In the calm of the evening,

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Mr Zhao and his family
light paper boat lanterns.

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Each flickering flame
carries a wish to the sea goddess,

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a tradition passed on from parents
to children over countless generations.

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On China's crowded coasts,

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fishermen need to be
extremely resourceful.

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Hauling in the nets is hard work,

145
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and so far there's not a fish in sight.

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Only jellyfish.

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Each year, millions of jellyfish

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are carried south with the currents
in the Bohai Gulf.

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The ecological story
behind this event is complex,

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but by no means unique to China.

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Jellyfish are fast-breeding
plankton feeders.

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In recent years, human sewage and
fertilisers from intensive farming

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have increased plankton blooms
in the Gulf,

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providing extra jellyfish food.

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While over-fishing has reduced
their enemies and competitors.

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It's a phenomenon that has become
increasingly widespread

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across the world's seas.

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However, what is seen elsewhere
as a problem,

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in China is perceived as an opportunity.

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Back on shore,

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mule carts transport the jellyfish
to nearby warehouses

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where they will be processed
and sold as food all over China.

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Four generations tuck into
a bowl of sliced jellyfish,

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the recipe for a long and healthy life.

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Leaving the Bohai Gulf behind,

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migrating cranes,

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spoonbills and ducks
are joined by other birds,

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all heading south
in search of a safe winter haven.

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The birds' migration route follows
the coast of the Yellow Sea

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down into Jiangsu Province,

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a fertile agricultural landscape

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with some of the last remaining
salt marshes in China.

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At Dafeng,

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a small salt marsh reserve is home
to an animal which is lucky to be alive.

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The Chinese see these Milu as
a curious composite animal,

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with a horse's head,

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cow's feet,

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a tail like a donkey

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and backwards-facing antlers.

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In the West, we know it as
Père David's Deer,

181
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after the first European to describe it.

182
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During the rut,

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stags decorate themselves
with garlands of vegetation

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collected in their antlers.

185
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Fierce battles decide mating rights.

186
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The females still have
last year's fawns in tow.

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They haven't been weaned
by the time of the rut

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and band together in large crèches,

189
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only returning to their mothers to feed.

190
00:19:23,695 --> 00:19:28,032
This unique behaviour helps to keep
them clear of the aggressive males.

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00:19:34,506 --> 00:19:38,409
Today, there are just
2,500 Milu in China,

192
00:19:40,379 --> 00:19:43,481
but it is remarkable that
there are any at all.

193
00:19:45,717 --> 00:19:49,620
In the early 1900s
Milu became extinct in the wild,

194
00:19:50,255 --> 00:19:54,692
but luckily, some of the Imperial herd
had been sent as a gift to Europe.

195
00:19:55,861 --> 00:19:58,896
Those at Woburn Abbey,
in England, prospered.

196
00:19:58,964 --> 00:20:03,868
And in the early 1980s, 40 of the deer
were returned to their homeland

197
00:20:03,936 --> 00:20:06,170
where they continue to thrive.

198
00:20:23,989 --> 00:20:26,457
The migrating cranes
have so far travelled

199
00:20:26,525 --> 00:20:30,061
over 2,000 kilometres southwards
along the coast.

200
00:20:38,570 --> 00:20:41,572
Passing the Milu Deer Reserve at Dafeng,

201
00:20:41,640 --> 00:20:43,941
they are approaching another salt marsh

202
00:20:44,009 --> 00:20:48,346
which will provide the perfect
conditions for them to spend the winter.

203
00:20:58,757 --> 00:21:03,494
This is Yancheng,
the largest coastal wetland in China,

204
00:21:03,562 --> 00:21:07,031
visited by an estimated
three million birds each year.

205
00:21:11,870 --> 00:21:15,206
Crane chicks that were only born
seven months ago

206
00:21:15,274 --> 00:21:18,609
have now completed the first leg
of a round trip

207
00:21:18,677 --> 00:21:21,112
which they will repeat every year.

208
00:21:22,848 --> 00:21:25,549
The hardy cranes can cope
with winter temperatures

209
00:21:25,617 --> 00:21:27,785
which may drop below freezing.

210
00:21:30,722 --> 00:21:35,159
However, other migrating birds, like
the endangered black-faced spoonbill,

211
00:21:35,227 --> 00:21:37,828
are less cold-tolerant

212
00:21:37,896 --> 00:21:41,866
and will continue even further south
in search of warmer climes.

213
00:21:58,517 --> 00:22:01,352
At this point,
many of the migrating bird flocks

214
00:22:01,420 --> 00:22:05,156
are barely halfway along
their southward journey.

215
00:22:05,223 --> 00:22:08,059
Ahead of them lies a new challenge,

216
00:22:08,126 --> 00:22:11,128
China's greatest river, the Yangtze,

217
00:22:11,196 --> 00:22:14,632
and the venue for
a very different kind of migration.

218
00:22:21,039 --> 00:22:25,009
Each year, millions of tons of cargo
travel up and down the river,

219
00:22:25,077 --> 00:22:28,546
making this one of
the busiest waterways in the world.

220
00:22:39,291 --> 00:22:41,559
These are Chinese mitten crabs,

221
00:22:41,626 --> 00:22:44,161
named for their strange hairy claws.

222
00:22:51,303 --> 00:22:54,739
They may migrate as much as
1 ,500 kilometres

223
00:22:54,806 --> 00:22:57,808
from tributaries and lakes
to the river mouth,

224
00:22:57,876 --> 00:23:00,111
where they gather to breed.

225
00:23:07,018 --> 00:23:10,788
A similar migration is made
by the giant Yangtze sturgeon,

226
00:23:10,856 --> 00:23:14,992
which can reach four metres long
and weigh half a ton.

227
00:23:15,060 --> 00:23:18,596
In recent years,
its numbers have declined dramatically

228
00:23:18,663 --> 00:23:23,000
as its migration is impeded
by ever more river dams.

229
00:23:26,271 --> 00:23:30,207
But it isn't just animals like
the sturgeon that are in trouble,

230
00:23:30,275 --> 00:23:33,644
the entire Yangtze River
ecosystem is being poisoned.

231
00:23:36,948 --> 00:23:40,751
In spite of being the subject
of an ambitious clean-up plan,

232
00:23:40,852 --> 00:23:43,354
today the river is
reckoned to be the biggest

233
00:23:43,422 --> 00:23:47,258
single source of pollution
entering the Pacific Ocean.

234
00:23:56,001 --> 00:23:58,903
Situated right at the mouth
of its estuary,

235
00:23:58,970 --> 00:24:02,506
Chongming Island provides
a vital resting and feeding spot

236
00:24:02,574 --> 00:24:05,075
for migrating shorebirds,

237
00:24:05,143 --> 00:24:07,745
and a place which offers
welcome evidence

238
00:24:07,813 --> 00:24:11,782
of changing attitudes towards
the Yangtze's beleaguered wildlife.

239
00:24:16,822 --> 00:24:20,057
For centuries these coastal
mudflats have attracted hunters,

240
00:24:20,125 --> 00:24:21,826
like Mr Jin,

241
00:24:21,893 --> 00:24:24,929
who have honed
their trapping skills to perfection

242
00:24:24,996 --> 00:24:28,799
to put rare birds on the tables
of Shanghai's elite.

243
00:24:42,280 --> 00:24:45,649
For 40 years Mr Jin has used a net,

244
00:24:45,717 --> 00:24:48,853
simple decoy birds and a bamboo whistle

245
00:24:48,920 --> 00:24:52,122
to lure passing birds towards his nets.

246
00:25:07,405 --> 00:25:10,975
It takes both patience
and consummate skill.

247
00:25:34,366 --> 00:25:37,234
But all is not as it seems.

248
00:25:37,302 --> 00:25:41,539
Mr Jin, like many of
the best conservationists,

249
00:25:41,606 --> 00:25:44,675
is poacher turned gamekeeper,

250
00:25:44,743 --> 00:25:48,379
using his hunting skills
to benefit his old quarry.

251
00:25:53,852 --> 00:25:56,820
The staff here at Dongtan Bird Reserve

252
00:25:56,888 --> 00:26:00,090
will measure, ring
and weigh the trapped birds

253
00:26:00,158 --> 00:26:02,560
before releasing them unharmed.

254
00:26:03,895 --> 00:26:07,097
The information gathered
by Mr Jin and his colleagues

255
00:26:07,165 --> 00:26:10,868
helps to protect
over 200 different species of birds

256
00:26:10,936 --> 00:26:13,337
which visit the island each year.

257
00:26:21,813 --> 00:26:24,281
Just south of Chongming Island

258
00:26:24,349 --> 00:26:28,686
lies China's largest coastal city,
Shanghai.

259
00:26:39,931 --> 00:26:44,168
Situated on a major migration route
for birds as well as river life,

260
00:26:45,337 --> 00:26:48,806
Shanghai is now preparing
for an even bigger invasion.

261
00:26:51,209 --> 00:26:56,146
Barges loaded with building materials
constantly arrive in the city's docks,

262
00:26:56,815 --> 00:27:00,584
feeding one of the greatest
construction booms in the world.

263
00:27:03,121 --> 00:27:07,391
Last year, half the world's concrete
was poured into China's cities,

264
00:27:08,293 --> 00:27:12,463
all in preparation for
the biggest mass migration of people

265
00:27:12,530 --> 00:27:14,698
in the history of the world.

266
00:27:20,939 --> 00:27:25,242
In the next 25 years,
well over 300 million people

267
00:27:25,310 --> 00:27:30,247
are predicted to move from
rural China into cities like Shanghai.

268
00:27:32,951 --> 00:27:36,186
The migration of people
from country to city

269
00:27:36,254 --> 00:27:40,357
is being mirrored around the world,
and by 2010

270
00:27:40,425 --> 00:27:44,461
over half of the world's population
will be urban dwellers.

271
00:27:50,535 --> 00:27:54,605
As night falls,
Shanghai reveals its true colours.

272
00:28:17,028 --> 00:28:20,397
China's fastest-growing financial centre

273
00:28:20,465 --> 00:28:23,600
is in the midst of a massive boom.

274
00:28:36,181 --> 00:28:40,851
With an estimated population
of more than 20 million,

275
00:28:40,919 --> 00:28:43,921
Shanghai is officially China's largest

276
00:28:43,988 --> 00:28:46,824
and certainly its most dazzling city.

277
00:28:50,562 --> 00:28:53,630
But there is an environmental cost.

278
00:28:53,698 --> 00:28:58,602
Shanghai residents now use two and
a half times more power per head

279
00:28:58,670 --> 00:29:00,704
than their rural cousins.

280
00:29:09,013 --> 00:29:12,082
The city's seemingly
insatiable energy demands

281
00:29:12,150 --> 00:29:16,687
currently require the output
of 17 power stations.

282
00:29:24,362 --> 00:29:28,565
South of Shanghai
the city lights gradually fade

283
00:29:28,633 --> 00:29:31,335
as we enter an ancient world.

284
00:29:41,479 --> 00:29:44,581
This is Fujian Province,

285
00:29:44,649 --> 00:29:46,250
a rugged terrain

286
00:29:46,317 --> 00:29:51,088
guarded by sheer granite mountains
which have helped to forge and preserve

287
00:29:51,156 --> 00:29:55,159
some of China's most ancient sites
and traditional cultures.

288
00:29:56,795 --> 00:30:02,032
Towering above the coast,
the 1 ,400-metre-high Taimu Mountains

289
00:30:02,100 --> 00:30:06,170
are known to the Chinese
as "Fairyland on the Sea".

290
00:30:14,412 --> 00:30:18,715
Moist sea breezes condense
on the cool mountaintops

291
00:30:18,783 --> 00:30:21,885
and combine with well-drained acid soils

292
00:30:21,953 --> 00:30:24,721
to produce
the perfect growing conditions

293
00:30:24,789 --> 00:30:28,158
for acid-loving plants
like wild azaleas.

294
00:30:32,997 --> 00:30:38,302
It's also home to camellias,
including the most famous of all,

295
00:30:38,369 --> 00:30:39,870
the tea plant.

296
00:30:42,340 --> 00:30:45,742
Similar growing conditions
all along the Fujian coast

297
00:30:45,810 --> 00:30:49,446
make this the treasure chest
for China's tea,

298
00:30:49,514 --> 00:30:53,917
the heart of an industry dating back
almost 4,000 years.

299
00:30:57,922 --> 00:31:01,625
One of the most traditional
tea-growing cultures in the area

300
00:31:01,693 --> 00:31:03,827
is that of the Kejia people.

301
00:31:08,399 --> 00:31:13,136
Every morning, goats are let loose
among the tea terraces,

302
00:31:13,204 --> 00:31:15,239
a centuries-old tradition.

303
00:31:16,040 --> 00:31:18,642
This might seem surprising
given goats' reputation

304
00:31:18,710 --> 00:31:20,811
for eating anything green,

305
00:31:21,479 --> 00:31:25,382
but tea isn't as defenceless
as it looks.

306
00:31:27,252 --> 00:31:30,120
Tea leaves are loaded
with bitter chemicals

307
00:31:30,188 --> 00:31:32,856
designed to repel browsing animals.

308
00:31:33,858 --> 00:31:35,893
It works on the goats,

309
00:31:35,960 --> 00:31:40,364
who leave the tea untouched
and instead eat up the weeds,

310
00:31:40,431 --> 00:31:43,734
fertilising the tea plants
with their droppings.

311
00:31:46,671 --> 00:31:48,505
The surprise is that we humans

312
00:31:48,573 --> 00:31:51,942
should find the same
bitter chemical cocktail

313
00:31:52,010 --> 00:31:53,810
utterly irresistible.

314
00:31:56,414 --> 00:32:00,851
Among the Kejia people,
tea-growing is a family business.

315
00:32:01,319 --> 00:32:05,155
Women do the picking,
while the men process and pack it.

316
00:32:08,026 --> 00:32:10,794
Mrs Zhang belongs to a Kejia family

317
00:32:10,862 --> 00:32:13,096
that has lived and worked
for generations

318
00:32:13,164 --> 00:32:15,399
among these same tea terraces.

319
00:32:25,243 --> 00:32:29,346
The finest tea needs to be
gathered quickly in warm sunshine

320
00:32:29,447 --> 00:32:33,450
as this brings out the flavour-enhancing
oils inside the leaves.

321
00:32:46,464 --> 00:32:51,568
This sustainable industry has protected
one of China's finest landscapes

322
00:32:51,636 --> 00:32:54,371
and one of its most
traditional cultures.

323
00:33:04,849 --> 00:33:07,250
At the end of the morning's picking,

324
00:33:07,318 --> 00:33:11,989
Mrs Zhang returns home to drop off
her tea ready for processing.

325
00:33:39,650 --> 00:33:43,186
This fort-like design
has survived from a time

326
00:33:43,254 --> 00:33:45,989
when the Kejia needed to
protect themselves

327
00:33:46,057 --> 00:33:48,258
against hostile local tribes.

328
00:33:52,964 --> 00:33:55,766
Each house has three or four levels

329
00:33:55,833 --> 00:33:59,736
designed to accommodate
50 to 250 people.

330
00:34:02,240 --> 00:34:05,609
The ground floor houses
the kitchens and animal stock

331
00:34:05,676 --> 00:34:08,011
with access to a well for water.

332
00:34:10,748 --> 00:34:13,383
The first floor rooms
are used for storage

333
00:34:13,451 --> 00:34:15,886
and the upper floors are bedrooms.

334
00:34:20,958 --> 00:34:25,629
Some of these remarkable buildings
are 800 years old

335
00:34:25,696 --> 00:34:29,166
and have survived earthquakes
and typhoons.

336
00:34:42,213 --> 00:34:46,283
Once enough tea has been gathered in,
the processing begins.

337
00:34:47,985 --> 00:34:50,220
Turning green leaves into saleable tea

338
00:34:50,288 --> 00:34:53,156
involves at least
eight different stages,

339
00:34:53,224 --> 00:34:58,662
including drying, bruising,
sifting, squeezing and twisting,

340
00:34:58,729 --> 00:35:02,299
before the finished product
is finally ready for packing.

341
00:35:12,577 --> 00:35:15,579
The Zhang's village produces
"little black dragon",

342
00:35:15,646 --> 00:35:17,714
or oolong tea,

343
00:35:17,782 --> 00:35:21,051
so called because of the way
its twisted leaves unfurl

344
00:35:21,119 --> 00:35:22,986
when water is poured over them.

345
00:35:24,789 --> 00:35:27,824
Tea plays a vital part in Kejia life,

346
00:35:27,892 --> 00:35:32,629
not only as a source of income,
but also as a way to welcome visitors

347
00:35:32,697 --> 00:35:34,865
and bring people together.

348
00:35:35,633 --> 00:35:37,834
In traditional Chinese life,

349
00:35:37,902 --> 00:35:42,806
even the simplest cup of tea is poured
with an intricate amount of ritual.

350
00:35:50,548 --> 00:35:52,149
In the past,

351
00:35:52,216 --> 00:35:57,287
the Kejia people's other main income
came from transporting goods like tea

352
00:35:57,355 --> 00:36:01,491
across the treacherous topography
of mountains and river estuaries.

353
00:36:09,133 --> 00:36:13,603
Their route was suddenly
made easier when, in 1059,

354
00:36:13,671 --> 00:36:16,006
this remarkable bridge was built.

355
00:36:19,110 --> 00:36:22,579
Made from massive
10-ton slabs of granite,

356
00:36:22,647 --> 00:36:26,483
it is one of China's lesser-known
architectural gems.

357
00:36:28,686 --> 00:36:33,590
Luoyang Bridge has withstood
earthquakes and tempestuous tides.

358
00:36:45,236 --> 00:36:48,672
Known as "10,000 ships launching",

359
00:36:48,739 --> 00:36:50,540
the bridge's 46 piers

360
00:36:50,608 --> 00:36:54,544
have withstood time and tide
for almost a millennium.

361
00:36:57,915 --> 00:36:59,449
According to folklore,

362
00:36:59,517 --> 00:37:03,353
its success is due to a far-sighted
piece of bio-engineering.

363
00:37:04,422 --> 00:37:06,523
Oysters were seeded on the piers

364
00:37:06,591 --> 00:37:10,227
and ever since,
their concretions have helped cement

365
00:37:10,294 --> 00:37:12,429
the granite blocks together.

366
00:37:19,136 --> 00:37:22,405
Today, oysters are still cultivated here

367
00:37:22,473 --> 00:37:25,575
in the traditional way by Hui'an women.

368
00:37:27,511 --> 00:37:30,547
Stones are stood in the mudflats
below the bridge

369
00:37:30,615 --> 00:37:32,782
to encourage the oysters to grow.

370
00:38:15,159 --> 00:38:18,762
Luoyang Bridge
is now mainly used by locals

371
00:38:18,829 --> 00:38:22,732
carrying goods across the estuary
towards the coastal ports.

372
00:38:29,040 --> 00:38:31,341
For more than 2,000 years,

373
00:38:31,409 --> 00:38:33,576
coastal trade in China has depended

374
00:38:33,644 --> 00:38:36,279
on a remarkable and
pioneering type of ship,

375
00:38:37,281 --> 00:38:39,983
known to us as the junk.

376
00:38:45,623 --> 00:38:48,058
This working vessel follows
a general design

377
00:38:48,125 --> 00:38:52,262
that's been in use in Fujian
for at least 600 years.

378
00:38:53,531 --> 00:38:57,734
Its bows take the form of a beak,
with two large painted eyes

379
00:38:58,836 --> 00:39:01,638
evoking the traditional
seafarers' belief

380
00:39:01,706 --> 00:39:04,641
that the bird's image
would help sailors return safely,

381
00:39:05,509 --> 00:39:08,945
like the migrants that return
each spring and autumn.

382
00:39:15,319 --> 00:39:18,655
Tea and other goods
were stored in strong bulkheads,

383
00:39:18,723 --> 00:39:23,326
each waterproofed and separated
from the next to minimise flood damage.

384
00:39:26,997 --> 00:39:31,434
This innovation, introduced
to keep precious tea cargos dry,

385
00:39:31,502 --> 00:39:35,171
spurred on the improvement
of not only Chinese boats,

386
00:39:35,239 --> 00:39:37,107
but Western ones, too.

387
00:39:41,112 --> 00:39:43,613
The distinctive rigging of
the junk's sails

388
00:39:43,681 --> 00:39:46,516
allows easy handling in bad weather,

389
00:39:46,584 --> 00:39:49,386
essential along
this storm-battered coast.

390
00:39:53,491 --> 00:39:58,395
Each year from July to November,
up to a dozen typhoons,

391
00:39:58,462 --> 00:40:01,898
a corruption of the Chinese word
for "great wind",

392
00:40:01,966 --> 00:40:04,667
head northwest towards China.

393
00:40:08,672 --> 00:40:12,876
Typhoons are becoming more frequent
as sea temperatures rise,

394
00:40:12,943 --> 00:40:16,045
aided by a global increase
in greenhouse gases,

395
00:40:16,113 --> 00:40:18,248
such as carbon dioxide.

396
00:40:23,721 --> 00:40:27,290
But satellite pictures have revealed
a surprising twist.

397
00:40:27,925 --> 00:40:32,762
It seems that typhoons can pull
deep, nutrient-rich seawater

398
00:40:32,830 --> 00:40:36,766
up to the surface
causing plankton blooms,

399
00:40:36,834 --> 00:40:42,138
which in turn soak up
large quantities of carbon dioxide.

400
00:40:52,082 --> 00:40:54,384
When a typhoon strikes,

401
00:40:54,452 --> 00:40:58,721
one of the best places to be
is Hong Kong harbour

402
00:40:58,789 --> 00:41:01,057
with its sheltered anchorage.

403
00:41:12,636 --> 00:41:15,271
A centre of international trade,

404
00:41:15,339 --> 00:41:18,308
the city is famous
for its jumble of skyscrapers

405
00:41:18,375 --> 00:41:20,877
and its bustling commercial centre.

406
00:41:23,280 --> 00:41:27,050
But there's a side to Hong Kong
that's less well known.

407
00:41:33,624 --> 00:41:35,658
Behind the urban sprawl

408
00:41:35,726 --> 00:41:38,027
lies a swathe of wetlands

409
00:41:38,095 --> 00:41:41,064
which include the Mai Po Nature Reserve.

410
00:41:42,333 --> 00:41:46,035
Managed principally for the benefit
of migrating birds,

411
00:41:46,103 --> 00:41:50,039
the reserve maintains a series
of traditional prawn farms,

412
00:41:50,107 --> 00:41:52,175
known as gei wais,

413
00:41:52,243 --> 00:41:55,078
and their adjoining mangroves
and mudflats.

414
00:41:59,383 --> 00:42:01,417
Every two weeks from November to March,

415
00:42:01,485 --> 00:42:05,388
one of the gei wais is drained
by opening up the sluice gates.

416
00:42:18,202 --> 00:42:21,437
As the water level falls,
birds begin to gather.

417
00:42:22,439 --> 00:42:25,642
Herons, egrets and cormorants

418
00:42:25,709 --> 00:42:27,944
mingle with a far rarer visitor,

419
00:42:30,381 --> 00:42:32,415
the black-faced spoonbill.

420
00:42:36,387 --> 00:42:37,854
These endangered migrants

421
00:42:37,922 --> 00:42:41,057
have travelled the length of
the Chinese coastline

422
00:42:41,125 --> 00:42:44,360
from Northern China and Korea.

423
00:42:44,428 --> 00:42:48,765
Mai Po marks the end of
a 2,000 kilometre journey

424
00:42:48,832 --> 00:42:52,969
during which the birds may have lost
up to a third of their body weight.

425
00:42:53,904 --> 00:42:56,506
Four hundred black-faced spoonbills,

426
00:42:56,574 --> 00:42:59,609
a quarter of the world's population,

427
00:42:59,677 --> 00:43:01,611
pass the winter here.

428
00:43:06,016 --> 00:43:07,550
At low water,

429
00:43:07,618 --> 00:43:10,620
trapped shrimps and fish
become easy prey,

430
00:43:11,689 --> 00:43:14,891
a life saver for these endangered birds.

431
00:43:30,341 --> 00:43:33,743
The Mai Po marshes
are part of the Pearl River estuary,

432
00:43:34,845 --> 00:43:39,782
whose muddy shores abound with crabs,
worms and mud-skippers.

433
00:43:56,133 --> 00:43:58,434
Exposed at low tide,

434
00:43:58,502 --> 00:44:01,871
this smorgasbord of mud-life attracts
both waders

435
00:44:01,939 --> 00:44:03,806
and the gei wai birds.

436
00:44:20,324 --> 00:44:23,026
Here on the mudflats of Inner Deep Bay,

437
00:44:23,093 --> 00:44:26,763
each kind of bird has
its own specific feeding zone

438
00:44:26,830 --> 00:44:29,499
defined by the depth of the water,

439
00:44:29,566 --> 00:44:33,069
the length of its beak
and its feeding technique.

440
00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,614
Once refuelled,

441
00:44:44,682 --> 00:44:48,084
they revel in synchronised
aerial displays.

442
00:45:15,045 --> 00:45:18,347
More than any other place
on China's coastline,

443
00:45:18,415 --> 00:45:21,551
Inner Deep Bay
demonstrates that, with help,

444
00:45:21,618 --> 00:45:24,487
resilient nature can still thrive,

445
00:45:24,555 --> 00:45:26,322
even when boxed in

446
00:45:26,390 --> 00:45:30,493
and overshadowed by
towering cities like Shenzhen.

447
00:45:37,835 --> 00:45:40,536
Another successful example of
man's intervention

448
00:45:40,604 --> 00:45:42,305
on behalf of nature

449
00:45:42,372 --> 00:45:46,175
can be glimpsed in the waters
around Lantau Island.

450
00:45:50,914 --> 00:45:54,050
While egrets make the most of
an easy meal,

451
00:45:54,118 --> 00:45:57,653
other creatures have their eye on
the fishermen's catch.

452
00:46:07,664 --> 00:46:11,667
Chinese white dolphins
are estuary specialists.

453
00:46:16,940 --> 00:46:20,510
Found widely in
the Indian and Pacific Ocean,

454
00:46:20,577 --> 00:46:22,812
this species is rare in China.

455
00:46:24,448 --> 00:46:29,619
The young are born dark grey
and become spotted as adolescents,

456
00:46:31,421 --> 00:46:34,157
finally turning creamy white as adults,

457
00:46:35,459 --> 00:46:39,262
though on some occasions
they may blush a delicate shade of pink.

458
00:46:53,744 --> 00:46:57,547
Three groups of dolphins
live close to Lantau Island.

459
00:46:57,614 --> 00:47:02,885
As the tide comes in, they move with it
to feed on small fish or squid

460
00:47:02,953 --> 00:47:05,488
which travel with the currents,

461
00:47:05,556 --> 00:47:09,725
using echolocation to see their prey
through the murky water.

462
00:47:13,697 --> 00:47:16,199
They also use sound to communicate.

463
00:47:18,802 --> 00:47:21,237
But they face a deafening problem.

464
00:47:27,344 --> 00:47:32,148
The Pearl Estuary has become one of
the busiest shipping channels in China,

465
00:47:32,216 --> 00:47:35,351
and the dolphins are constantly
bombarded with sound.

466
00:47:41,758 --> 00:47:45,194
New research suggests that
they may now pack more information

467
00:47:45,262 --> 00:47:48,798
into shorter calls in a bid to be heard.

468
00:47:50,868 --> 00:47:55,705
Local conservationists have now set up
a protected zone near Lantau Island.

469
00:47:56,907 --> 00:48:00,276
So, for now, China's white dolphins
are holding on.

470
00:48:08,986 --> 00:48:12,622
South of Hong Kong
lies the South China Sea,

471
00:48:12,689 --> 00:48:16,125
studded with more than
200 islands and reefs.

472
00:48:18,595 --> 00:48:21,797
Potential reserves of fish, oil and gas

473
00:48:21,865 --> 00:48:24,233
make each one strategic,

474
00:48:24,301 --> 00:48:27,570
and the whole region has become
a political hot spot

475
00:48:27,638 --> 00:48:32,308
as territorial disputes simmer
between its many neighbouring countries.

476
00:48:37,080 --> 00:48:39,515
The waters themselves
are low in nutrients

477
00:48:39,583 --> 00:48:41,384
and would be poor in life

478
00:48:41,451 --> 00:48:45,588
if it wasn't for the other resource
that's here in abundance.

479
00:48:46,890 --> 00:48:48,190
Sunlight.

480
00:48:52,429 --> 00:48:54,397
In the shallows of the coral atolls,

481
00:48:54,464 --> 00:48:57,967
small jellyfish point their tentacles
towards the sun.

482
00:48:59,236 --> 00:49:01,237
Like many animals here,

483
00:49:01,305 --> 00:49:05,408
they depend on a close partnership
with microscopic algae,

484
00:49:05,475 --> 00:49:08,878
which turn solar power into food.

485
00:49:09,980 --> 00:49:14,917
The most famous of these relationships
is the reef-forming corals,

486
00:49:14,985 --> 00:49:19,221
which provide the foundation of
the sea's most dazzling ecosystem.

487
00:49:24,294 --> 00:49:25,962
Their branches provide shelter

488
00:49:26,029 --> 00:49:28,931
for a wealth of small
and vulnerable creatures,

489
00:49:28,999 --> 00:49:31,600
many of them beautifully camouflaged.

490
00:49:34,905 --> 00:49:38,941
But the ultimate master of disguise
has to be the octopus,

491
00:49:39,009 --> 00:49:42,345
able to change not only
its shape and colour,

492
00:49:42,412 --> 00:49:44,580
but its skin texture, too.

493
00:49:53,523 --> 00:49:56,559
Where the reefs meet deeper waters,

494
00:49:56,626 --> 00:49:59,929
upwelling currents carry nutrients
to the surface.

495
00:50:06,336 --> 00:50:10,940
Reef fish swim out to gorge themselves
on the resulting food,

496
00:50:11,008 --> 00:50:15,077
in turn attracting larger predatory
fish to the reefs.

497
00:50:25,689 --> 00:50:28,124
Trevally prowl in dense packs.

498
00:50:33,363 --> 00:50:36,732
Giant rays sweep in on graceful wings

499
00:50:36,800 --> 00:50:40,770
to hoover up the remaining plankton,

500
00:50:40,837 --> 00:50:43,973
which also attracts the king of fish.

501
00:50:55,118 --> 00:50:57,820
Growing up to 12 metres long,

502
00:50:57,888 --> 00:51:01,757
the whale shark is a gentle giant.

503
00:51:01,825 --> 00:51:04,827
And these days, a rare sighting.

504
00:51:13,336 --> 00:51:15,137
As sharks, small and large,

505
00:51:15,205 --> 00:51:19,008
are plundered to supply
the East Asian shark meat trade,

506
00:51:19,076 --> 00:51:22,978
the fate of these fabulous creatures
hangs in the balance.

507
00:51:27,651 --> 00:51:31,887
While healthy coral reefs
still survive in the remote islands,

508
00:51:31,955 --> 00:51:36,025
the situation close to
the Chinese coast is quite different.

509
00:51:43,133 --> 00:51:48,170
The waters along the shores of Hainan,
China's largest tropical island,

510
00:51:48,238 --> 00:51:50,973
have been fished for thousands of years.

511
00:52:01,451 --> 00:52:04,520
As the reefs become
less and less productive,

512
00:52:04,588 --> 00:52:06,188
fishermen from Tanmen harbour

513
00:52:06,256 --> 00:52:09,358
need all their resourcefulness
to make a living.

514
00:52:22,939 --> 00:52:28,010
Dicing with death, they breathe air
pumped through hose pipes

515
00:52:28,078 --> 00:52:31,647
in a desperate bid to catch
the last remaining sea life.

516
00:52:34,351 --> 00:52:38,154
Over the years, increased sedimentation
and the use of dynamite and cyanide

517
00:52:38,221 --> 00:52:42,291
means the corals close to shore
are barely hanging on.

518
00:52:53,670 --> 00:52:57,606
Recently the government has
recognised that regulation is needed

519
00:52:57,674 --> 00:53:00,876
if the local fishery
is to survive for the future.

520
00:53:06,249 --> 00:53:08,617
Fishing is now banned for two months
of the year

521
00:53:08,685 --> 00:53:11,387
to allow marine life a chance to breed.

522
00:53:25,569 --> 00:53:27,736
One of the most important
tropical habitats

523
00:53:27,804 --> 00:53:30,472
for young fish is mangrove swamps.

524
00:53:32,442 --> 00:53:33,909
In the last 40 years,

525
00:53:33,977 --> 00:53:37,513
eighty percent of China's mangroves
have been destroyed.

526
00:53:39,149 --> 00:53:42,952
But at the Dongzhaigang Mangrove Reserve
in Hainan,

527
00:53:43,019 --> 00:53:45,487
a remarkable conservation initiative

528
00:53:45,555 --> 00:53:48,691
is bringing young
Chinese volunteers together

529
00:53:48,758 --> 00:53:52,661
to plant mangrove saplings
in the glutinous mud.

530
00:53:56,199 --> 00:53:58,400
For many of these city-born students,

531
00:53:58,468 --> 00:54:01,470
such unglamorous work
demonstrates their commitment

532
00:54:01,538 --> 00:54:03,839
to their country's environment.

533
00:54:06,509 --> 00:54:09,044
Like other heavily populated countries,

534
00:54:09,112 --> 00:54:12,381
China today is faced with a challenge.

535
00:54:12,449 --> 00:54:16,952
How best to protect nature
in an increasingly crowded space?

536
00:54:33,470 --> 00:54:38,607
These wild macaques
live on a tiny Hainan Island reserve

537
00:54:38,675 --> 00:54:41,944
where they are carefully managed
and looked after.

538
00:54:47,817 --> 00:54:52,321
Most of the island's hillsides are
covered with tropical woodland,

539
00:54:52,389 --> 00:54:55,424
but there are also
areas of flower meadows

540
00:54:55,492 --> 00:54:57,926
where the monkeys gather to feed.

541
00:55:09,039 --> 00:55:12,541
Each morning,
as the tropical sun heats their island,

542
00:55:12,609 --> 00:55:16,679
the macaques head downhill
in search of somewhere cooler.

543
00:55:19,649 --> 00:55:23,519
And what could be more refreshing
than a dip in the pool?

544
00:55:53,116 --> 00:55:55,884
To the Chinese,
combining a wildlife reserve

545
00:55:55,952 --> 00:56:00,689
with a tourist development
makes perfect commercial sense,

546
00:56:00,757 --> 00:56:04,693
and the monkeys don't seem
at all unhappy with the deal.

547
00:56:10,200 --> 00:56:13,469
The question is where to draw the line.

548
00:56:22,011 --> 00:56:23,479
Like the rest of the world,

549
00:56:23,546 --> 00:56:28,484
China is still feeling its way towards
a harmonious relationship with nature.

550
00:56:33,857 --> 00:56:35,824
Six hundred years ago

551
00:56:35,892 --> 00:56:39,995
the people who lived here carved
this calligraphy in the rocks,

552
00:56:40,063 --> 00:56:43,399
announcing it to be
"the end of the world".

553
00:56:51,541 --> 00:56:56,345
In recent years that world has undergone
a massive expansion

554
00:56:56,413 --> 00:56:58,514
as tourists from all over China

555
00:56:58,581 --> 00:57:02,851
have discovered the delights
of Hainan's tropical seaside resorts.

556
00:57:07,390 --> 00:57:11,393
By 2010, China's total tourism revenue

557
00:57:11,461 --> 00:57:15,864
is expected to hit £75 billion a year.

558
00:57:24,107 --> 00:57:28,877
While insensitive development could
destroy China's natural environment,

559
00:57:28,945 --> 00:57:34,049
well-managed eco-tourism could provide
huge benefits for China's wildlife.

560
00:57:38,321 --> 00:57:42,858
The issues that face China today,
increasing pressure on resources

561
00:57:42,926 --> 00:57:46,662
and living space and
quality of environment,

562
00:57:46,729 --> 00:57:48,831
are those that face us all.

563
00:57:53,169 --> 00:57:55,237
If there is any country in the world

564
00:57:55,305 --> 00:57:59,141
equipped to solve environmental problems
on a vast scale,

565
00:58:00,810 --> 00:58:03,278
it has to be China,

566
00:58:03,346 --> 00:58:08,584
with its tremendous human resources
and powerful political control.

567
00:58:08,651 --> 00:58:13,121
The path it chooses will affect
not just its own people

568
00:58:13,189 --> 00:58:16,024
and its natural environment,

569
00:58:16,092 --> 00:58:18,360
but the rest of the world, too.


