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This is a symbol of the great iconic
American cowboy, which symbolizes hard

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work, and your handshake means more than
your signature.

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If I'm moving bulls, horseback, and
stuff, I've always got it on. It's kind

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like your uniform.

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We want to give you the best quality
product.

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We want to give you the best customer
service possible.

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We want to deliver on time, and we want
to do all of those things at a fair

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price.

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If you're a cowboy, you wear a cowboy
hat.

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It's American Hat Company. It's 110
years old. We make one thing, and that's

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cowboy hats.

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We don't make T -shirts. We don't make
ball caps. We don't make anything else.

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We're in the business of making cowboy
hats. We're not playing baseball. We're

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doing cowboy stuff, so that's what we do
here.

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Bowie, Texas is a small town in between
Decatur and Wichita Falls.

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5 ,200 people.

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People ask me, well, where's Bowie,
Texas? And I tell them it's 14 miles

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the spot where Jesus lost his sandals.

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You just got to go a little bit farther.

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I love the people in this town.

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My youngest daughter is a police officer
here. I'm proud to be able to help

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raise my granddaughters here and be a
member of this community.

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Good morning. How are you today?

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Good, good. Hanging in there.

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Everybody's doing good. Looks like
everybody's happy working.

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Getting it done.

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We do not import any finished goods at
all.

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Everything we bring in, we bring in in
raw material.

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Then we make it right here in Bowie,
Texas.

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And it's handmade here in Bowie, Texas.

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This is where it all begins. So these
are raw straw bodies. These are all hand

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-woven. So it's really kind of a work of
art.

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But you can see in this form, it's very
pliable.

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And so we have to get it from this form
to this form. So where it's going to

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actually cover your head and protect you
from the elements.

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I happen to be the beneficiary of some
folks that took some chances on American

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Hat Company. And those folks would be
Keith and Susan Maddox. Keith, our late

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owner, and Susan, our current owner.

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So that's a raw felt body, but it is
made to our specifications.

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Keith went to Portugal and blended furs,
belly, beaver, and mink, probably the

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finest hat you can buy.

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So Keith Maddox, he was a rodeo cowboy.

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Grew up on a ranch in Weezer, Idaho.

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His dad, Dwight Maddox, was probably one
of the toughest guys you'd ever meet.

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Still rode bulls at the age of 58.

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You know, I grew up in a Western family.
My dad rodeoed professionally.

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I grew up on a ranch.

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I've been wearing hats and boots, so I
can remember.

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Keith had a good rodeo career, but knew
that he wanted to go into business. He

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wanted to have his own hat company.

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He always felt like a good pair of boots
and a good hat. Every cowboy needed

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that.

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This is a collection of old hat blocks,
just as a way of remembering our

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heritage and our history.

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Some of these can be stacked to make a
top hat, but now we use a tapered crown.

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So instead of it going straight up on
the side, they're tapered to look more

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like that.

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In 2004, Keith and Susan Maddox were
able to put the money together and write

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check for the American Hat Company. They
moved it here to Bowie, Texas, with the

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help of the Economic Development
Department here in town.

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And it was all about quality, quality,
quality. That was his thing.

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So we start here with a way out. That's
what this is called.

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So these tickets tell these guys how to
press the hat.

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The key that they've got to do is
they've got to make sure that...

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When they put it on there, that that
vent stays straight.

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Each one of these guys will press
between 250 and 300 hats a day.

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This is the area where they cut the brim
down and sew the wire on. And then as

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the hat is getting ready to come through
the factory, they lay the sweatband

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inside it. So it's been pre -made
waiting for that hat to show up.

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Tammy is sewing in reading, so she's got
a big old roll of it.

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when that seats inside your hat.

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So it gives it a nice head.

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And then they sew the sweatband
together.

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And then this has got to fit inside the
hat.

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If you cut that or trim that a little
bit, it's going to throw everything off.

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So then what we're doing here, Michelle
is tacking the sweatband onto the hat.

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And then once they're through all that,
there's one other step.

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This is called hot blocking.

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She puts them on these hot blocks, and
the hot blocks then smooth out the

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sweatband to make sure there's no
wrinkles or anything in the sweatband.

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got these, so she can also put that
inside the hat and make sure she's

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the right size of the right hat. Then
they come over here to the inspection

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department. They do a final inspection,
make sure that everything is what it's

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supposed to be. So that's the straw side
of the business. This is probably the

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most recognizable piece of apparel on
the planet Earth.

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People calling me a goat never, that was
not ever a goal of mine.

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That never really factored into my bull
riding. I always told them, go buckles

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or not.

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When I hung that bull rope up, I wanted
everybody to look and say, man, he never

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had any backup in him. He went at them
every single time, and I feel like

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what I did in my career.

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J .B. Mooney is the guy, when you look
up a cowboy in the dictionary, he's got

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his picture there.

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Arguably one of the greatest bull riders
of all time, one of the toughest human

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beings that you'll ever want to meet.

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He broke his neck, and he knew he broke
his neck.

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and sat out on a picnic table and said,
hey, can somebody

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get me a cigarette?

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I mean, smoke a cigarette and then tell
them the guys at the ambulance probably

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won't stabilize this because I think
I've broken my neck.

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Your friends and your family are the
only person that's going to remember

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gold buckle hanging around your waist as
soon as they hand that gold buckle to

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you. You've got to hit the reset like
you never want it. Go again.

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Now, we've got a lot of great bull
riders, but J .D. Mooney is on a whole

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plane, and you can just see the
execution in his movement. He knows

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position he needs to get to, and he
knows the exact intensity to use to move

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there. He knows how to find the rhythm
of the bull.

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When I was 18, a bull stung me on the
stomach, lacerated my liver.

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Broke all my ribs on the right side.

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I was a little bit young and dumb, so I
didn't go to the hospital until the next

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day. I thought I was all right. And when
I finally went, they told me it should

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have ruptured, and I bled out and never
made it out of the arena.

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And I realized pretty quick, if I was
going to do it, I better mean it.

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When I lacerated my liver at that job I
was working at, they asked me, what are

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you going to do now?

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I said, well, I'm back riding bulls as
soon as I can.

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Oh, you're going to go back? Bulldog
killed you. I said, yeah.

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I wanted to ride bulls my whole life,
but it didn't really, it's the side

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everybody knows. You just kind of put it
in the back of your head and out of

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sight, out of mind kind of deal. Say
hello to your 2015 PBR World Champion.

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J .B. Mooney and Keith Maddox, the one
thing that they had in common, no quit.

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Zero quit.

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Before I was 18, we got on bulls seven
days a week and twice on Sunday.

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And then once I got in the PBR and
started going, nothing ever changed. I

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changed from day one.

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You know, when I broke my neck, that's
what I told all the guys on the team. I

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said, look, I'm a proven fact.

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It doesn't matter how good you are or
how good you're riding. One day it's

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and the next day it's gone. So you
better mean it every time you nod your

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He's been wearing our hat for quite a
few years now, and we've never really

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a contract. It's just been, hey, you
know, give your hat.

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It was like a sponsorship deal without a
contract. It was just a handshake, so

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I'd always tag him, and I always had
American hats on, so it worked out.

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How'd you come up with the shape?

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It was just what I always wore. It used
to be real bad. I would never let anyone

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shake my hat. No one.

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Now people call it, and that's for the
JV shape.

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My name's James Andre, Capital Hatters
here in Stephenville, Texas, and we

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started back in 2004, so 21 years right
now.

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We're focused on our retailers that sell
hats and do hats right, what we

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consider right, and that means to
handshape cowboy hats in front of the

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customer. Yeah, we get hats all the
time, you know, for the JV shade, so

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very popular shade. He's made his mark
in the hat business.

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A wider, squared -off brim, a lot like
the one that I'm wearing, all -around

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type crown.

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All -around is what I've got on. This
hat right here is basically a Cattleman

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crown with some cutter bumps in it.

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Now we're walking up on Julie Dawson.
Julie Dawson's been here about 12 years,

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and Julie has shaped over...

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250 ,000 hats.

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So you see it's a lot of symmetrical
hand movements.

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And she's measuring things with her
hands, and you can see that they're all

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safe, very close to the same.

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And now your word's known if you've got
a smile on your face.

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It really matters how sharp your corners
are, you know, smoothness of your

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lines, the symmetry.

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The way I see it, if I wouldn't wear the
hat, then I'm not going to send it out.

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I want it to look fantastic to me.

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When I was riding, they had to keep me
stocked up because my dismounts weren't

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so good, so I went through quite a few
straw hats during the summertime.

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In 2005, we had a grass fire come to
Bowie, Texas, and we lost $13 .5 million

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raw hat bodies.

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Honestly, a lesser man would have
probably said, okay, well, this is not

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cards.

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You know, I quit.

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But not Keith, and I wasn't there at the
time, but I envisioned him just tilting

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his hat back on his head a little bit
and pushing all of his chips to the

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of the table and said, you know what,
I'm going to bet it all, and I bet it

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on American Hat Company.

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He mortgaged his house that was paid
for, went into his 401K, and basically

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raised the money to go buy more raw
material, plus keep the employees

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He didn't lay anybody off. He didn't let
anybody go.

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He paid everybody their wages while he
was waiting to get raw material and

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rebuild.

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You know, Samantha and Jagger were
standing beside me in that hospital bed.

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And he said, he says, not 100%, but it's
about 98%. You land on your head again,

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it'll snap your neck either above or
below where we fixed.

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I said, well, I'm listening.

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He said, below, you're in a wheelchair
the rest of your life. Above, you're

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dead. And I said, well, the last 20
years of my life, I used my head as the

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landing gear.

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There's 100 % chance I'm going to land
on my head.

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And I knew right then when he said it,
it was over. I didn't say anything to

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anybody for a couple weeks, but I knew
then, right?

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Well, it's done.

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And, you know, it's just part of it.

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Keith and Susan Maddox, they fought
their way back. You know, it wasn't

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There were some lean times. There were
some difficult times. I think there was

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one point where Susan said, should we
just quit and go do something else? And

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says, quit? There's no option to quit
here.

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You know, we lose our house. We lose our
retirement.

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He had no...

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Plan B. It was always Plan A. He was
dedicated to make Plan A work.

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He would often say, if you never quit,
they can't beat you.

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You know, everybody always asked me when
I was riding, what's Plan B? Make Plan

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A work.

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Ride bulls.

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There was no Plan C.

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When I started building the arena here.

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That was strictly for my own use, you
know. That way, if I wanted to get on

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practice bulls, I didn't have to go
anywhere.

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I could run them right down there. We'd
buck bulls all day whenever we wanted

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to. And after brushing my neck, it just
kind of led into, well, let's do bull

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rides here. We've got it, so let's do
it. And that's where Randy came in.

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How's it going, guys? Randy Cortieri
here. We're here at Bucktown. This is J

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Mooney's compound for bull riders, by
bull riders. And today we've got an ABVI

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Classic.

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The riders have a chance to win some
money, but the bulls are the ones that

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competing for the year -end
championship.

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Keith's cattle brand was a plus and an
X.

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And the plus stood for the word
positive, and the X represented times.

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was an avid believer in being in control
of your thoughts, the power of positive

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thinking.

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He left that for us.

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That's our guiding light here at
American Hat Company.

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We have not monetized it because what we
didn't want to do was dilute his brand

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in any way, shape, fashion, or form, and
his memory is not for sale.

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00:15:28,480 --> 00:15:30,500
These are all requests for hat patches.

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00:15:30,700 --> 00:15:33,660
That's just something we give away here
every day.

220
00:15:34,020 --> 00:15:37,200
So that's today's, that's the request
for today.

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00:15:37,760 --> 00:15:39,900
These two go in the envelope.

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00:15:40,940 --> 00:15:44,200
And on the inside of the hat, we also
stamp.

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00:15:44,880 --> 00:15:46,120
The positive times.

224
00:15:47,640 --> 00:15:52,420
It's pretty cool to see these guys come
in here with these bulls and showcase

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00:15:52,420 --> 00:15:53,420
their ability.

226
00:15:54,080 --> 00:15:58,860
You know, from the time I was 13 years
old, I rode bulls. And now, his son

227
00:15:58,860 --> 00:16:01,400
Jagger is coming on strong.

228
00:16:03,180 --> 00:16:07,620
I wake up every day wishing I could get
on one more.

229
00:16:09,130 --> 00:16:12,450
Some days I think it's a good idea,
maybe just one more. I get on one more

230
00:16:12,450 --> 00:16:15,230
then Jagger will run by and I'm like,
no, that's a bad idea.

231
00:16:24,590 --> 00:16:26,650
Okay, so this is where the magic
happens.

232
00:16:26,930 --> 00:16:32,250
So this is called a finger blocker. So
what this machine does is we'll have a

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00:16:32,250 --> 00:16:33,250
raw body.

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00:16:33,550 --> 00:16:36,770
And so this is how they'll start off
before we start.

235
00:16:37,210 --> 00:16:41,010
the process of making it into a final
finished felt hat.

236
00:16:41,290 --> 00:16:45,650
What really makes a great hat at the end
of the day is the feel of the hat.

237
00:16:45,850 --> 00:16:49,410
The feel of the hat, the thickness of
the brim, how it will hold its shape.

238
00:16:50,790 --> 00:16:56,530
I love to say when you buy a 1000X hat
that it should come with a box of band

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00:16:56,530 --> 00:16:57,990
-aids because you'll look so sharp.

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00:16:59,910 --> 00:17:02,330
And what it's doing is making the hat
pliable.

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00:17:05,390 --> 00:17:08,410
And each one of these fingers has to
pull evenly.

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00:17:09,150 --> 00:17:12,770
So we'll lock it down, then we're going
to re -steam it.

243
00:17:14,650 --> 00:17:16,050
I'll then choose the crown.

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00:17:22,950 --> 00:17:26,290
It's going to give you your crown height
and your brim size all in one machine.

245
00:17:27,730 --> 00:17:32,090
So this is before, and this is after
it's come off the machine.

246
00:17:33,100 --> 00:17:35,980
So the next step is going to be what we
call plating.

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00:17:36,300 --> 00:17:37,920
This here is called your plating
machine.

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00:17:38,640 --> 00:17:42,280
And so every time he lifts up, it's
releasing the moisture out of the hat.

249
00:17:42,540 --> 00:17:45,360
So the more moisture you get out of the
hat, the tighter the bond and the

250
00:17:45,360 --> 00:17:49,620
fibers. So this lets us know how tight
that hat is. So if it needs a little bit

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00:17:49,620 --> 00:17:52,780
longer to bake, we can bake it in the
place for a little bit longer.

252
00:17:53,480 --> 00:17:57,860
I mean, we're still finishing them by
hand with an orbital sander, and they're

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00:17:57,860 --> 00:17:59,420
not done. We don't have a recipe.

254
00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:02,200
So we have six different sandpaper grits
that we use.

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00:18:02,540 --> 00:18:04,160
They're not done until they feel good.

256
00:18:06,640 --> 00:18:10,840
It'll be nice and smooth, and it'll feel
like silk.

257
00:18:14,580 --> 00:18:19,560
There's been plenty of times I get on
six, seven, ride all six or seven, and

258
00:18:19,560 --> 00:18:21,220
just felt like something wasn't right.

259
00:18:22,120 --> 00:18:26,080
And before lights or anything at the
arenas I was getting on, we pulled

260
00:18:26,080 --> 00:18:29,380
around, turned the headlights on, and
kept loading them all night until I felt

261
00:18:29,380 --> 00:18:30,900
like I rode them like I was supposed to.

262
00:18:33,219 --> 00:18:35,900
Everyone always asks me, what bull
riding school did you go to?

263
00:18:36,860 --> 00:18:37,860
Trial and error.

264
00:18:38,280 --> 00:18:39,280
What's that mean?

265
00:18:39,480 --> 00:18:41,960
It didn't work. I tried not to do it
again.

266
00:18:43,600 --> 00:18:46,580
Trying to give younger guys a better
opportunity than I had.

267
00:18:48,180 --> 00:18:51,840
I was taught when I had a young age, you
play the game, you take the thing.

268
00:18:52,040 --> 00:18:54,780
And I did every day of my life.

269
00:18:55,400 --> 00:19:00,380
Even now when I get up, I hurt all over.
But that's part of it. I was willing to

270
00:19:00,380 --> 00:19:02,100
do it to be able to.

271
00:19:02,700 --> 00:19:04,220
To be good at what I love doing.

272
00:19:08,160 --> 00:19:10,980
It's kind of unpredictable what a wild
animal is going to do.

273
00:19:15,400 --> 00:19:16,400
You know,

274
00:19:19,920 --> 00:19:21,440
every hat's going to tell a story.

275
00:19:21,680 --> 00:19:23,380
And we want to be a part of that story.

276
00:19:23,680 --> 00:19:28,300
And so we want to make the best hat
there is. So that hat can be passed down

277
00:19:28,300 --> 00:19:29,420
from generation to generation.

278
00:19:43,180 --> 00:19:49,720
We're trying to make a statement for
younger people that this

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00:19:49,720 --> 00:19:54,820
cowboy hat stands for something. The
symbolism of that great iconic American

280
00:19:54,820 --> 00:19:55,820
cowboy.

281
00:19:56,060 --> 00:19:57,480
It's history.

282
00:19:57,740 --> 00:20:00,820
It's symbolism. It's tradition.

283
00:20:01,980 --> 00:20:04,740
If you're a cowboy, you wear a cowboy
hat.

284
00:20:07,449 --> 00:20:11,890
Your hat is there to protect you on the
worst days when the rain wants to run

285
00:20:11,890 --> 00:20:14,410
down the back of your jacket or the
sun's beating on your neck.

286
00:20:15,070 --> 00:20:18,370
But then your hat's with you on the best
days, the day you walk your daughter

287
00:20:18,370 --> 00:20:20,530
down the aisle and meet your grandkid
for the first time.

288
00:20:21,250 --> 00:20:25,630
But then, when your journey on the earth
is over, your hat will hang on the wall

289
00:20:25,630 --> 00:20:27,230
silently in remembrance of you.

