1 00:00:00,208 --> 00:00:01,792 GARRETT MCNAMARA: My childhood was very unstable. 2 00:00:01,875 --> 00:00:05,208 REPORTER: They say they are the followers of Jesus Christ, Lightning Amen. 3 00:00:05,291 --> 00:00:08,291 MCNAMARA: We walked the earth the same way Jesus walked. 4 00:00:08,375 --> 00:00:11,500 SPEAKER: They had no shoes. They ate out of trash cans. 5 00:00:11,583 --> 00:00:14,667 MCNAMARA: That was the part that messes with me a lot. 6 00:00:14,750 --> 00:00:16,166 ♪ (DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS) ♪ 7 00:00:16,249 --> 00:00:19,166 SPEAKER 2: Our idea for the third year project 8 00:00:19,249 --> 00:00:21,458 was to open the door to everybody. 9 00:00:21,999 --> 00:00:24,041 SURFER: You're never on a safety zone in Nazare. 10 00:00:24,124 --> 00:00:25,999 We just wanted to do it. 11 00:00:26,083 --> 00:00:27,999 SURFER 2: You can't afford to be on every swell, see? 12 00:00:28,500 --> 00:00:30,291 You just need to be on the right swells. 13 00:00:30,375 --> 00:00:31,833 SPEAKER 3: We created the Red Chargers. 14 00:00:31,917 --> 00:00:34,999 SPEAKER 4: The surfers that look for the red blobs on the map. 15 00:00:35,083 --> 00:00:40,249 The whole goal is to put a face to these people on the waves. 16 00:00:40,583 --> 00:00:43,792 MCNAMARA: And then everything just kind of went wrong. 17 00:00:43,875 --> 00:00:45,792 SPEAKER 5: Oh, my god! 18 00:00:46,458 --> 00:00:48,458 Oh...! 19 00:00:51,166 --> 00:00:52,541 [TV static drones] 20 00:00:52,625 --> 00:00:54,792 [bright tone] 21 00:00:56,500 --> 00:00:59,416 [tense music] 22 00:00:59,500 --> 00:01:06,500 ♪ ♪ 23 00:01:08,958 --> 00:01:10,249 - [speaking Portuguese] 24 00:02:06,208 --> 00:02:10,291 [soft music] 25 00:02:10,375 --> 00:02:13,333 - Check out these monster 100-foot waves 26 00:02:13,416 --> 00:02:14,999 off of Portugal. 27 00:02:15,083 --> 00:02:17,291 - The biggest wave ever surfed, 28 00:02:17,375 --> 00:02:19,291 as high as 100 feet. 29 00:02:19,375 --> 00:02:20,458 - To put that in perspective, 30 00:02:20,541 --> 00:02:22,833 that is taller than an eight-story building. 31 00:02:22,917 --> 00:02:26,124 - Surfers are always looking for the next great thing. 32 00:02:26,208 --> 00:02:30,083 - It often breaks those brave or crazy board riders. 33 00:02:30,166 --> 00:02:33,833 - Severe wipeouts and waves of mind-boggling heights. 34 00:02:33,917 --> 00:02:36,667 - What happens here happens nowhere else in the world. 35 00:02:36,750 --> 00:02:41,291 - Biggest wave ever surfed. - The biggest wave ever-- 36 00:02:41,375 --> 00:02:44,333 - The 100-foot wave. 37 00:02:44,416 --> 00:02:49,041 ♪ ♪ 38 00:02:53,291 --> 00:02:55,124 [radio chatter] 39 00:02:55,208 --> 00:02:57,833 [indistinct chatter] 40 00:02:57,917 --> 00:03:00,124 ♪ ♪ 41 00:03:00,208 --> 00:03:02,833 - A gnarly wipeout in Half Moon Bay. 42 00:03:02,917 --> 00:03:05,333 McNamara falls off his surfboard 43 00:03:05,416 --> 00:03:07,792 and hits the water three times. 44 00:03:07,875 --> 00:03:10,291 - Yeah, I saw Garrett's wipeout. 45 00:03:10,375 --> 00:03:13,541 Skip, skip, crunch. 46 00:03:13,625 --> 00:03:16,833 - I went over the handlebars and hit the water super hard 47 00:03:16,917 --> 00:03:19,667 and then I just started skipping like a stone. 48 00:03:19,750 --> 00:03:21,999 [mimics hitting water] 49 00:03:22,083 --> 00:03:24,667 - [mimics hitting water] 50 00:03:24,750 --> 00:03:26,333 - And then the lip landed on me, 51 00:03:26,416 --> 00:03:28,667 and then I was underwater forever 52 00:03:28,750 --> 00:03:31,458 and it was, like, a normal pounding. 53 00:03:31,541 --> 00:03:36,416 But underwater, I felt this crazy excruciating pain, 54 00:03:36,500 --> 00:03:39,208 and I couldn't move my arm. 55 00:03:39,291 --> 00:03:41,375 - Some are now calling this wipeout 56 00:03:41,458 --> 00:03:43,416 one of the worst ever recorded. 57 00:03:43,500 --> 00:03:44,541 - All right. - All right. 58 00:03:44,625 --> 00:03:47,041 - He got to the hospital, and they were like, 59 00:03:47,124 --> 00:03:49,500 "You shattered your shoulder." 60 00:03:49,583 --> 00:03:53,833 And the humerus head was shattered like an eggshell. 61 00:03:53,917 --> 00:03:57,333 - I found out he got hurt. I was kind of scared. 62 00:03:57,416 --> 00:03:59,750 Yeah, I mean, I did whatever I could. 63 00:03:59,833 --> 00:04:01,041 I started making calls. 64 00:04:01,124 --> 00:04:04,041 I started calling people and seeing who could help. 65 00:04:04,124 --> 00:04:06,208 - Garrett's brother Liam was a godsend. 66 00:04:06,291 --> 00:04:10,124 He found a surgeon who would work on him. 67 00:04:10,208 --> 00:04:12,583 The next morning, he came out of surgery. 68 00:04:12,667 --> 00:04:15,416 He said, "Put my shoes on. We're out of here." 69 00:04:15,500 --> 00:04:18,041 We flew back home. 70 00:04:18,124 --> 00:04:22,667 A week after the first surgery, we go to see Dr. Weldon. 71 00:04:22,750 --> 00:04:25,458 - And they both simultaneously said, 72 00:04:25,541 --> 00:04:27,416 "The surgery went perfect, 73 00:04:27,500 --> 00:04:31,291 and we're gonna--we're expected to have a full recovery." 74 00:04:31,375 --> 00:04:32,917 I glance at the X-ray, 75 00:04:32,999 --> 00:04:35,917 and I saw some disturbing images. 76 00:04:35,999 --> 00:04:37,249 When the head is down 77 00:04:37,333 --> 00:04:38,291 underneath the acromion, 78 00:04:38,375 --> 00:04:39,375 it's a sign that 79 00:04:39,458 --> 00:04:40,541 your axillary nerve 80 00:04:40,625 --> 00:04:42,041 is not firing. 81 00:04:42,833 --> 00:04:48,500 - And he says that Garrett needs another surgery 82 00:04:48,583 --> 00:04:51,583 because the first one failed. 83 00:04:51,667 --> 00:04:54,999 Garrett comes out of the surgery, and I'm there, 84 00:04:55,083 --> 00:04:57,625 and he wakes up, but he can't feel anything 85 00:04:57,708 --> 00:04:58,917 'cause they have a nerve blocker, 86 00:04:58,999 --> 00:05:00,291 so they tell us the nerve blocker 87 00:05:00,375 --> 00:05:01,917 should last 24 hours. 88 00:05:01,999 --> 00:05:04,166 With one hour of him being out of the surgery, 89 00:05:04,249 --> 00:05:06,458 all of a sudden, it was like that movie "Hostile," 90 00:05:06,541 --> 00:05:09,458 just like this bloody murder 91 00:05:09,541 --> 00:05:11,416 like from the depths of his soul, 92 00:05:11,500 --> 00:05:14,083 like, just screaming in pain. 93 00:05:14,166 --> 00:05:15,625 He was like, "I don't feel anything. 94 00:05:15,708 --> 00:05:16,667 "It's not working. 95 00:05:16,750 --> 00:05:17,958 "I just want another nerve blocker, 96 00:05:18,041 --> 00:05:19,792 I just want another nerve blocker." 97 00:05:19,875 --> 00:05:21,999 He's asking me to get him a plastic bag 98 00:05:22,083 --> 00:05:23,792 so that he can kill himself, 99 00:05:23,875 --> 00:05:25,958 and if I don't get him the plastic bag, 100 00:05:26,041 --> 00:05:27,833 he's gonna rip everything out, and go to the top 101 00:05:27,917 --> 00:05:29,750 of the building, and jump off. 102 00:05:29,833 --> 00:05:31,750 ♪ ♪ 103 00:05:39,750 --> 00:05:42,792 This depression and pain 104 00:05:42,875 --> 00:05:45,291 went on for months. 105 00:05:45,375 --> 00:05:49,792 - [breathes deeply] 106 00:05:49,875 --> 00:05:53,166 The doctor said that I should never surf again. 107 00:05:53,249 --> 00:05:54,500 - You know, I just told him--I was like, 108 00:05:54,583 --> 00:05:57,166 "We just can't even let that be a possibility, 109 00:05:57,249 --> 00:05:59,708 "so don't even think about that, 110 00:05:59,792 --> 00:06:03,041 not a reality, so don't even give it any energy." 111 00:06:03,124 --> 00:06:07,041 - [whispering] Practice acceptance. 112 00:06:07,124 --> 00:06:09,166 Defenselessness. 113 00:06:09,249 --> 00:06:11,375 Conscious choices. 114 00:06:11,458 --> 00:06:14,208 ♪ ♪ 115 00:06:14,291 --> 00:06:17,458 I started doing all my physical therapy 116 00:06:17,541 --> 00:06:21,917 and my stretches. 117 00:06:21,999 --> 00:06:27,708 - It took a long while for him to get back in the water, 118 00:06:27,792 --> 00:06:32,750 but we were back in Portugal pretty soon after. 119 00:06:32,833 --> 00:06:34,583 ♪ ♪ 120 00:06:34,667 --> 00:06:37,208 There was events he had to be at. 121 00:06:37,291 --> 00:06:42,458 We still report to sponsors to feed our family. 122 00:06:42,541 --> 00:06:45,708 - Um, reports from a reporter... 123 00:06:45,792 --> 00:06:48,249 - We had various other meetings too. 124 00:06:48,333 --> 00:06:50,750 - I was invited in here to get to know you guys 125 00:06:50,833 --> 00:06:52,541 and your company and to kind of... 126 00:06:52,625 --> 00:06:54,917 - Looking for new opportunities 127 00:06:54,999 --> 00:06:56,999 and new projects 128 00:06:57,083 --> 00:06:59,958 to keep the sponsors happy. 129 00:07:00,041 --> 00:07:02,375 He was just miserable with this arm 130 00:07:02,458 --> 00:07:04,375 and not being able to surf. 131 00:07:07,166 --> 00:07:08,792 - Not 100%. 132 00:07:08,875 --> 00:07:11,249 Doctors felt I need a third surgery, 133 00:07:11,333 --> 00:07:13,249 but they don't know me too well. 134 00:07:13,333 --> 00:07:15,083 - [laughs] 135 00:07:15,166 --> 00:07:19,917 ♪ ♪ 136 00:07:19,999 --> 00:07:22,708 [birds calling] 137 00:07:23,792 --> 00:07:26,750 - I went back to Hawaii to Sunset. 138 00:07:26,833 --> 00:07:29,708 I could ride waves, but I wasn't comfortable. 139 00:07:29,792 --> 00:07:31,708 I wasn't ready for big ones. 140 00:07:31,792 --> 00:07:35,583 I knew I was gonna be able to, but I was, back of my mind, 141 00:07:35,667 --> 00:07:37,416 wondering if I was going to want 142 00:07:37,500 --> 00:07:40,416 to go back out in big waves. 143 00:07:40,500 --> 00:07:44,875 ♪ ♪ 144 00:07:47,208 --> 00:07:49,166 - There he is right here. My hero. 145 00:07:52,708 --> 00:07:54,083 Weldon. 146 00:07:55,500 --> 00:07:58,500 [machine beeping] 147 00:08:03,208 --> 00:08:07,249 Whoa, holy moly, look at that thing. 148 00:08:07,333 --> 00:08:08,625 - Your bone has definitely healed. 149 00:08:08,708 --> 00:08:13,124 You have healing--evidence of healing through here, 150 00:08:13,208 --> 00:08:16,041 so very good, very good. 151 00:08:17,541 --> 00:08:20,208 Congratulations on doing so well with your shoulder, 152 00:08:20,291 --> 00:08:22,166 and it's remarkable, 153 00:08:22,249 --> 00:08:25,667 and it's even possible given where--how far you've come 154 00:08:25,750 --> 00:08:26,833 that you could get enough 155 00:08:26,917 --> 00:08:28,875 so you can be similar to this side. 156 00:08:28,958 --> 00:08:31,875 So when you--when I first saw you, 157 00:08:31,958 --> 00:08:33,999 I mentioned that I had taken care of somebody 158 00:08:34,083 --> 00:08:36,500 who had fallen off a cliff, and I treated his elbow, 159 00:08:36,583 --> 00:08:39,917 no problem, but his brain was messed up. 160 00:08:39,999 --> 00:08:41,667 He was in tears all the time, 161 00:08:41,750 --> 00:08:44,166 and I had missed it, that he had PTSD. 162 00:08:44,249 --> 00:08:46,999 - Definitely, I had PTSD, 163 00:08:47,083 --> 00:08:48,708 definitely working through it right now. 164 00:08:48,792 --> 00:08:52,124 I don't know until I get a really heavy pounding, 165 00:08:52,208 --> 00:08:55,166 and I'll see if I enjoy it or not. 166 00:08:55,249 --> 00:08:56,833 Thank you. - Yeah. 167 00:08:56,917 --> 00:08:58,500 - Thank you, really appreciate everything. 168 00:08:58,583 --> 00:08:59,583 - Congratulations. - Thank you. 169 00:08:59,667 --> 00:09:02,083 - I look forward to seeing you back at Maverick. 170 00:09:19,333 --> 00:09:22,500 ♪ ♪ 171 00:09:49,124 --> 00:09:50,917 - He stayed in a little storage shed 172 00:09:50,999 --> 00:09:53,583 that we turned into a bedroom for him. 173 00:09:53,667 --> 00:09:54,750 We surfed a lot together. 174 00:09:54,833 --> 00:09:57,249 We had a really good time together. 175 00:09:57,333 --> 00:10:00,291 [cheers and applause] 176 00:10:38,041 --> 00:10:41,333 - He decided to kick out through the lip, 177 00:10:41,416 --> 00:10:43,792 but the next wave is right there. 178 00:10:43,875 --> 00:10:46,667 [tense music] 179 00:10:50,041 --> 00:10:51,958 [soft music] 180 00:10:52,041 --> 00:10:54,667 That wave landed right on Koxa's head. 181 00:10:54,750 --> 00:10:59,833 ♪ ♪ 182 00:11:12,249 --> 00:11:14,833 - He was really struggling. 183 00:11:14,917 --> 00:11:17,249 He didn't know if he'd ever surf big waves again. 184 00:11:33,375 --> 00:11:35,583 - Ready? 185 00:12:00,999 --> 00:12:07,999 ♪ ♪ 186 00:12:20,166 --> 00:12:24,375 - 2017, there was a big swell. 187 00:12:24,458 --> 00:12:27,041 You get those perfect moments when the second wave 188 00:12:27,124 --> 00:12:28,708 of the set is smooth. 189 00:12:28,792 --> 00:12:31,917 Look at that. Look at how clean that is. 190 00:12:31,999 --> 00:12:34,583 It's perfectly smooth, it's groomed, 191 00:12:34,667 --> 00:12:37,416 and there's a lot of room in between sets. 192 00:12:37,500 --> 00:12:40,875 Let's do it. Cotty's frothing. 193 00:12:40,958 --> 00:12:43,416 - Nazaré was huge. I didn't want to wait. 194 00:12:43,500 --> 00:12:44,708 I just wanted to get out there, 195 00:12:44,792 --> 00:12:46,750 and I was prepared to go all day. 196 00:12:46,833 --> 00:12:50,124 You know, I knew that someone was gonna get, like, 197 00:12:50,208 --> 00:12:52,500 one of the biggest waves of the year, you know, for sure. 198 00:12:54,166 --> 00:12:56,999 I saw some sick fucking waves. - Really? 199 00:12:57,083 --> 00:12:59,792 - Yeah, like, sick A-frames, like... 200 00:12:59,875 --> 00:13:01,249 [exhales] 201 00:13:01,333 --> 00:13:02,416 - You're not to paddle about? 202 00:13:02,500 --> 00:13:03,458 - I don't know. 203 00:13:03,541 --> 00:13:04,999 A lot of people turned up for that swell. 204 00:13:05,083 --> 00:13:08,083 [indistinct chatter] 205 00:13:08,166 --> 00:13:09,583 - Big and pretty. 206 00:13:09,667 --> 00:13:11,500 It's weird because it's super pretty. 207 00:13:11,583 --> 00:13:15,667 So it looks smaller, but it's not small at all. 208 00:13:15,750 --> 00:13:17,124 - How big is it out there, do you think? 209 00:13:17,208 --> 00:13:19,875 - I don't know but huge. I think it's huge. 210 00:13:21,708 --> 00:13:23,667 - I'm gonna try. 211 00:13:23,750 --> 00:13:27,500 Hopefully, this wind doesn't get too strong. 212 00:13:27,583 --> 00:13:31,083 - This is my baby, 10 kilos. 213 00:13:47,625 --> 00:13:53,208 I like this wind 'cause it make the wave bigger. 214 00:13:56,583 --> 00:13:57,958 - You know, I came down this morning. 215 00:13:58,041 --> 00:13:59,333 It's just perfect offshore, 216 00:13:59,416 --> 00:14:02,792 so the forecasts are wrong again, you know? 217 00:14:02,875 --> 00:14:06,708 You don't get days like this often here. 218 00:14:06,792 --> 00:14:11,958 You get the birds, and you get the sound, come on. 219 00:14:12,041 --> 00:14:14,291 Come on! 220 00:14:14,375 --> 00:14:15,333 - You know, it's gonna be interesting 221 00:14:15,416 --> 00:14:16,458 to see what shows up. 222 00:14:16,541 --> 00:14:18,500 It's gonna be exciting to watch everybody. 223 00:14:18,583 --> 00:14:21,917 Probably, I think at a minimum, I'll drive Cotty and Hugo 224 00:14:21,999 --> 00:14:24,999 into a few waves, and then I'll assess 225 00:14:25,083 --> 00:14:26,208 the situation out there, 226 00:14:26,291 --> 00:14:29,541 see if there's any waves that I would like to ride. 227 00:14:29,625 --> 00:14:32,124 I have a feeling I'm not gonna even want to ride any. 228 00:14:33,416 --> 00:14:35,124 - On look, a bit funky at first light, 229 00:14:35,208 --> 00:14:38,041 and then about quarter to 7:00, 230 00:14:38,124 --> 00:14:42,041 the sickest set I've seen in a long time. 231 00:14:42,124 --> 00:14:45,875 Way more groomed than I thought it was gonna be. 232 00:14:45,958 --> 00:14:47,708 Been visualizing the day before 233 00:14:47,792 --> 00:14:50,249 the wave that I wanted. 234 00:14:50,333 --> 00:14:51,875 I was super confident. 235 00:14:51,958 --> 00:14:54,208 I was in a good place, you know, like, 236 00:14:54,291 --> 00:14:56,625 like it was an all-or-nothing day, you know, 237 00:14:56,708 --> 00:14:58,792 like I was prepared to put it all on the line, you know? 238 00:15:03,333 --> 00:15:06,750 - What's the worst crash you've seen? 239 00:15:09,792 --> 00:15:12,249 [dramatic music] 240 00:15:12,333 --> 00:15:13,958 [speaking Portuguese] 241 00:15:23,708 --> 00:15:26,416 - I put him on the wave. I put him in the perfect spot. 242 00:15:26,500 --> 00:15:28,583 It was nice and smooth and beautiful, 243 00:15:28,667 --> 00:15:32,416 and he came down, and he did a little fade, 244 00:15:32,500 --> 00:15:34,416 and then he turned 245 00:15:34,500 --> 00:15:36,249 so that he could get into the barrel. 246 00:15:36,333 --> 00:15:39,208 And when he turned, he was too late, 247 00:15:39,291 --> 00:15:41,583 and the lip was coming straight for him. 248 00:15:41,667 --> 00:15:48,667 ♪ ♪ 249 00:15:57,166 --> 00:15:59,750 [radio chatter] 250 00:15:59,833 --> 00:16:02,333 I stayed out the back. Hugo got him. 251 00:16:02,416 --> 00:16:04,458 Hugo ran him up the beach. 252 00:16:04,541 --> 00:16:07,416 ♪ ♪ 253 00:16:07,500 --> 00:16:11,458 [indistinct chatter] 254 00:16:11,541 --> 00:16:13,999 - One, two, three. 255 00:16:16,041 --> 00:16:17,541 Pull him over. 256 00:16:19,416 --> 00:16:21,958 - His back is really sore, and he can't move that well, 257 00:16:22,041 --> 00:16:24,917 and he thinks it's his spine. 258 00:16:24,999 --> 00:16:27,458 ♪ ♪ 259 00:16:27,541 --> 00:16:29,792 [indistinct chatter] 260 00:16:29,875 --> 00:16:32,166 - Hold on, hold on, hold on, hold on. 261 00:16:32,249 --> 00:16:33,792 - Just get it off. 262 00:16:33,875 --> 00:16:36,416 - Okay, it's okay. 263 00:16:36,500 --> 00:16:37,958 - Easy, easy, easy. 264 00:16:38,041 --> 00:16:39,833 - Hold on, hold on. Don't move your head. 265 00:16:39,917 --> 00:16:42,500 - Same pain? - Same pain, lower back. 266 00:16:42,583 --> 00:16:44,833 [unintelligible] [radio chatter] 267 00:16:44,917 --> 00:16:47,667 - Have we got the blanket for him? 268 00:16:47,750 --> 00:16:48,958 - Katie. 269 00:16:49,041 --> 00:16:50,458 - Hi. 270 00:16:50,541 --> 00:16:52,541 - Um, we got bad news, 271 00:16:52,625 --> 00:16:54,500 but Cotty's alive, 272 00:16:54,583 --> 00:16:56,333 but he got hurt. 273 00:16:56,416 --> 00:16:57,667 - Oh, is he okay? Where? 274 00:16:57,750 --> 00:16:58,833 What, in the water? 275 00:16:58,917 --> 00:17:02,291 - Yeah, we just got out. 276 00:17:02,375 --> 00:17:06,999 Really, really painful and doesn't feel right at all. 277 00:17:07,083 --> 00:17:08,166 [dog barking] 278 00:17:08,249 --> 00:17:10,166 - Take it off, take it off, take it off. 279 00:17:10,249 --> 00:17:11,500 Brace. 280 00:17:11,583 --> 00:17:14,750 - On three--one, two, three. - Brace yourself. Brace. 281 00:17:19,958 --> 00:17:21,833 - Go onto the stretcher now. 282 00:17:21,917 --> 00:17:25,249 - [speaking Portuguese] 283 00:17:25,333 --> 00:17:26,875 - He'll be fine. He'll come through. 284 00:17:26,958 --> 00:17:29,625 Cotty's strong. He bounces back quick. 285 00:17:36,333 --> 00:17:37,667 Bummer. 286 00:17:37,750 --> 00:17:40,083 - Garrett, in all his positivity, 287 00:17:40,166 --> 00:17:42,541 he's like, "Oh, he's gonna be okay." 288 00:17:42,625 --> 00:17:44,708 He got taken away in an ambulance. 289 00:17:44,792 --> 00:17:47,375 Like, it was really bad, 290 00:17:47,458 --> 00:17:50,124 and I think, like, maybe it scared Garrett, 291 00:17:50,208 --> 00:17:53,249 so he was not giving it the energy it deserved 292 00:17:53,333 --> 00:17:55,667 as far as how severe it was. 293 00:17:55,750 --> 00:17:59,249 With injuries and, like, tragic situations, 294 00:17:59,333 --> 00:18:00,625 he almost can't handle it. 295 00:18:00,708 --> 00:18:06,416 Yeah, he doesn't do well with, like, people almost dying. 296 00:18:06,500 --> 00:18:08,416 - Perfect. I didn't even have to surf. 297 00:18:08,500 --> 00:18:10,333 [chuckles softly] 298 00:20:07,333 --> 00:20:09,833 - With a wave measured at 80 feet 299 00:20:09,958 --> 00:20:12,999 and setting a new Guinness World Record, 300 00:20:13,083 --> 00:20:17,375 the winner of the 2018 Biggest Wave Awards 301 00:20:17,458 --> 00:20:19,249 is Rodrigo Koxa. 302 00:20:19,333 --> 00:20:22,333 [cheers and applause] 303 00:20:43,792 --> 00:20:45,917 - There was nobody that I would like 304 00:20:45,999 --> 00:20:47,750 to have broken the record more than him. 305 00:20:47,833 --> 00:20:50,208 Oh, you know, it would have been cool if it was Cotty. 306 00:20:50,291 --> 00:20:53,083 [soft music] 307 00:20:53,166 --> 00:20:55,208 - Look at that. 308 00:20:55,291 --> 00:20:57,416 ♪ ♪ 309 00:20:57,500 --> 00:20:58,833 Mm. 310 00:21:01,166 --> 00:21:03,416 Until that point, I never questioned 311 00:21:03,500 --> 00:21:05,416 not being able to walk. 312 00:21:05,500 --> 00:21:07,750 Just fearing that I physically couldn't do it 313 00:21:07,833 --> 00:21:09,249 was pretty scary. 314 00:21:09,333 --> 00:21:10,917 - Ah, Cotty's -- 315 00:21:10,999 --> 00:21:12,917 - And then within like two weeks, 316 00:21:12,999 --> 00:21:14,875 I was walking around. 317 00:21:14,958 --> 00:21:17,416 - See this guy walking already? 318 00:21:17,500 --> 00:21:19,875 You'll be surfing in a blink. 319 00:21:19,958 --> 00:21:22,500 - Ahh! - [laughs] 320 00:21:23,833 --> 00:21:26,792 - It's been horrific going through the rehab, 321 00:21:26,875 --> 00:21:28,958 the uncertainty and the stress. 322 00:21:29,041 --> 00:21:30,917 - How's that feel? - It feels good. 323 00:21:30,999 --> 00:21:32,249 - All right? - Yeah. 324 00:21:32,333 --> 00:21:33,667 - You feel difference. There's a difference. 325 00:21:33,750 --> 00:21:38,375 - Negatives, all that worry, all that, am I good enough? 326 00:21:41,041 --> 00:21:42,583 Then once that happens, 327 00:21:42,667 --> 00:21:44,750 sometimes it's hard to get it back, you know? 328 00:21:44,833 --> 00:21:46,583 ♪ ♪ 329 00:21:51,375 --> 00:21:53,500 [indistinct chatter] 330 00:21:54,958 --> 00:21:57,500 - So how's life? - Good. Congratulations. 331 00:21:57,583 --> 00:21:58,625 - Congratulations. 332 00:21:58,708 --> 00:22:00,166 [overlapping chatter] 333 00:22:00,249 --> 00:22:01,917 - [speaking Portuguese] 334 00:22:15,375 --> 00:22:18,333 - Tourism of Portugal gets this great idea. 335 00:22:18,416 --> 00:22:21,792 We're gonna put Nazaré in Times Square. 336 00:22:21,875 --> 00:22:24,625 - Here it is, Koxa's world record wave, 337 00:22:24,708 --> 00:22:29,583 80-foot wave right behind us in Time Square. 338 00:22:31,875 --> 00:22:35,458 - The guy's a visionary. He's a visionary. 339 00:22:48,291 --> 00:22:50,833 - All right, Rodrigo, let's get one more right here. 340 00:22:50,917 --> 00:22:54,792 - Hey, right here, world record holder, Koxa! 341 00:22:54,875 --> 00:22:57,249 Hey, and Garrett McNamara right here, 342 00:22:57,333 --> 00:22:59,500 record holder, world record. 343 00:22:59,583 --> 00:23:00,999 - No, he's the record holder. 344 00:23:01,083 --> 00:23:04,917 - Now it's Koxa's the world record. 345 00:23:04,999 --> 00:23:07,667 Yeah, Koxa! - Ha-ha! 346 00:23:07,750 --> 00:23:10,375 - Whoo! - Yee! 347 00:23:10,458 --> 00:23:13,625 [soft music] 348 00:23:38,667 --> 00:23:41,625 [dramatic music] 349 00:23:41,708 --> 00:23:46,750 ♪ ♪ 350 00:23:46,833 --> 00:23:48,917 - I'm preparing my body 351 00:23:48,999 --> 00:23:51,124 so that when I go back to Nazaré, 352 00:23:51,208 --> 00:23:56,500 I will be physically, mentally ready. 353 00:23:58,166 --> 00:24:01,083 I've surfed a 100-foot wave a million times in my mind. 354 00:24:01,166 --> 00:24:06,875 I've trained for hours, focusing, manifesting. 355 00:24:06,958 --> 00:24:09,249 This winter, it's gonna be the big wave, 356 00:24:09,333 --> 00:24:11,667 so I'll be ready. 357 00:24:13,792 --> 00:24:17,124 - Big, huge breath in. 358 00:24:17,208 --> 00:24:20,500 Let it out. both: Ohh. 359 00:24:20,583 --> 00:24:23,458 - Garrett was physically trying to get back in shape. 360 00:24:23,541 --> 00:24:26,291 - All right, grab some water if you got it. 361 00:24:26,375 --> 00:24:29,166 - My brother CJ had moved to Hawaii. 362 00:24:29,249 --> 00:24:30,500 - Stay focused. 363 00:24:30,583 --> 00:24:33,541 Feet on track, knees on track. Butt down. 364 00:24:58,375 --> 00:25:00,500 - From 2011, it definitely seemed 365 00:25:00,583 --> 00:25:05,041 like Nazaré was something super special for me. 366 00:25:05,124 --> 00:25:07,333 It was gonna be a huge part of my life 367 00:25:07,416 --> 00:25:08,500 'cause it changed me. 368 00:25:08,583 --> 00:25:11,333 It really did. 369 00:25:11,416 --> 00:25:16,166 - In 2011, CJ excelled above 370 00:25:16,249 --> 00:25:19,458 and beyond any expectations I may have had. 371 00:25:19,541 --> 00:25:23,541 He was excited to become a professional surfer, 372 00:25:23,625 --> 00:25:25,458 big wave surfer. 373 00:25:25,541 --> 00:25:28,458 And he got injured. 374 00:25:28,541 --> 00:25:31,333 - It wasn't a huge day. It was kind of big. 375 00:25:31,416 --> 00:25:33,667 I'm kind of zipping around inside back and forth 376 00:25:33,750 --> 00:25:35,792 in the white wash and looking around, 377 00:25:35,875 --> 00:25:40,083 and this kind of weird little Nazaré tidal wave 378 00:25:40,166 --> 00:25:41,999 sucked up kind of out of nowhere, 379 00:25:42,083 --> 00:25:43,917 and I gassed it to get past it, 380 00:25:43,999 --> 00:25:45,541 and I went up on the lip, 381 00:25:45,625 --> 00:25:48,041 and it sent me off over the side of the lip, 382 00:25:48,124 --> 00:25:50,041 and the ski rolled over. 383 00:25:50,124 --> 00:25:54,708 I got a good hit from a jet ski in my rib. 384 00:25:54,792 --> 00:25:59,083 And then returning to beach volleyball season, 385 00:25:59,166 --> 00:26:01,708 the way I played was just hard, 386 00:26:01,792 --> 00:26:03,875 just jumping as I can, hitting every ball 387 00:26:03,958 --> 00:26:05,583 as hard as I can. [whistle blows] 388 00:26:05,667 --> 00:26:07,083 So I ended up blowing out the disc 389 00:26:07,166 --> 00:26:10,541 in my low back on the left side, 390 00:26:10,625 --> 00:26:13,708 and that's when the sciatic pain came. 391 00:26:13,792 --> 00:26:17,249 I couldn't stand up for more than ten seconds. 392 00:26:17,333 --> 00:26:20,416 I would hit the floor and go into fetal position. 393 00:26:20,500 --> 00:26:22,208 It was brutal. I couldn't move. 394 00:26:22,291 --> 00:26:26,375 I was absolutely crippled, floored. 395 00:26:26,458 --> 00:26:31,208 - My brother being my brother, he spent an entire year 396 00:26:31,291 --> 00:26:33,750 trying to heal it on his own. 397 00:26:33,833 --> 00:26:35,208 - We didn't realize how bad it was 398 00:26:35,291 --> 00:26:37,917 until his mother went to visit him, 399 00:26:37,999 --> 00:26:40,416 found him laying on the ground. 400 00:26:40,500 --> 00:26:42,291 He was broken. 401 00:26:42,375 --> 00:26:44,625 - All of his muscles were atrophied. 402 00:26:44,708 --> 00:26:47,416 He was withering away. 403 00:26:47,500 --> 00:26:49,458 Finally, he did the back surgery 404 00:26:49,541 --> 00:26:52,041 after a year of this already. 405 00:26:52,124 --> 00:26:55,249 When he came out of surgery and he came to, 406 00:26:55,333 --> 00:26:57,416 he just started crying. 407 00:26:57,500 --> 00:27:01,249 CJ suffered a severe mental, emotional, 408 00:27:01,333 --> 00:27:03,416 and physical back injury, 409 00:27:03,500 --> 00:27:06,750 and then healing and then recovery. 410 00:27:06,833 --> 00:27:08,999 It was a journey. 411 00:27:09,083 --> 00:27:11,833 - They say 10 to 15 minutes 412 00:27:11,917 --> 00:27:13,583 of laughter will give you 413 00:27:13,667 --> 00:27:16,416 the benefits that you need. 414 00:27:16,500 --> 00:27:17,583 So we're gonna start off 415 00:27:17,667 --> 00:27:18,958 with just really simple little breathing exercise. 416 00:27:19,041 --> 00:27:21,291 I'm so different now because of the injury 417 00:27:21,375 --> 00:27:24,333 that it's so hard to say what would have happened 418 00:27:24,416 --> 00:27:26,166 had the path continued 419 00:27:26,249 --> 00:27:28,625 and not been--had I not taken this detour. 420 00:27:28,708 --> 00:27:32,291 All the way in the belly, in the belly, in the ribs. 421 00:27:32,375 --> 00:27:35,208 all: Aloha! 422 00:27:35,291 --> 00:27:41,249 [laughing] 423 00:27:43,541 --> 00:27:45,958 - I like to think, you know, would've been amazing. 424 00:27:46,041 --> 00:27:49,667 I'd be this famous big wave surfer and, you know, 425 00:27:49,750 --> 00:27:53,500 sponsors just throwing money and stuff at me. 426 00:27:53,583 --> 00:27:55,667 But it's all this stuff that now I'm like, 427 00:27:55,750 --> 00:27:56,958 what is that even worth? 428 00:27:57,041 --> 00:27:58,792 What does it mean, you know? 429 00:27:58,875 --> 00:28:01,708 Probably still have this guilt and self-worth issues, 430 00:28:01,792 --> 00:28:04,124 and I'd have all this external attention 431 00:28:04,208 --> 00:28:07,166 from big waves and all this, and I'd still be like, 432 00:28:07,249 --> 00:28:09,333 oh, whatever, I'm shit, you know? 433 00:28:09,416 --> 00:28:11,625 [laughter] 434 00:28:11,708 --> 00:28:13,999 So I definitely wouldn't trade it in for anything. 435 00:28:14,083 --> 00:28:17,375 You know, it's the biggest blessing in my life. 436 00:28:17,458 --> 00:28:21,208 But now I have really kind of taken a step back, 437 00:28:21,291 --> 00:28:26,083 then I'm planning on going back to Nazaré with Garrett. 438 00:28:26,166 --> 00:28:28,333 - The traditional big wave season 439 00:28:28,416 --> 00:28:33,083 of Nazaré is October through end of February. 440 00:28:33,166 --> 00:28:36,708 Garrett was in recovery mode from his shoulder, 441 00:28:36,792 --> 00:28:39,291 and so it was like, okay, let's do this comeback. 442 00:28:39,375 --> 00:28:41,375 Let's get you guys both out there. 443 00:28:41,458 --> 00:28:43,166 - Curl with the curl. 444 00:28:43,249 --> 00:28:45,333 We both experienced injuries 445 00:28:45,416 --> 00:28:48,833 but haven't really broken through on them 446 00:28:48,917 --> 00:28:52,708 in order to be able to go out and surf these waves. 447 00:28:52,792 --> 00:28:55,166 [light dynamic music] 448 00:28:55,249 --> 00:28:57,124 When it's time to go to Nazaré 449 00:28:57,208 --> 00:29:00,208 and go ride this giant wave, 450 00:29:00,291 --> 00:29:02,333 we'll be ready. 451 00:29:15,625 --> 00:29:21,041 ♪ ♪ 452 00:29:21,124 --> 00:29:24,166 - We were in Bali for a month. 453 00:29:24,249 --> 00:29:26,875 The plan was yoga, training, 454 00:29:26,958 --> 00:29:29,083 and to really get ready, and feel mentally 455 00:29:29,166 --> 00:29:33,166 and physically prepared to go back out to Nazaré. 456 00:29:33,249 --> 00:29:36,083 It's not just your regular yoga 457 00:29:36,166 --> 00:29:38,708 that you think of with postures, and that's it. 458 00:29:38,792 --> 00:29:43,208 It's about how we hold trauma in our bodies, 459 00:29:43,291 --> 00:29:46,667 and that's what creates pain. 460 00:29:46,750 --> 00:29:49,792 It's also about healing injuries. 461 00:29:50,833 --> 00:29:52,249 - We were doing like six months 462 00:29:52,333 --> 00:29:54,792 of quite intense physio and rehab, 463 00:29:54,875 --> 00:29:57,083 but all of it's been gym based. 464 00:29:57,166 --> 00:30:02,333 The idea was to come up here and just a bit 465 00:30:02,416 --> 00:30:03,999 of yoga, a bit of moving. 466 00:30:04,083 --> 00:30:08,833 - The first movement you need to learn is to 467 00:30:08,917 --> 00:30:10,708 massage the Earth. 468 00:30:10,792 --> 00:30:12,958 Come down. 469 00:30:13,041 --> 00:30:15,958 And you've got to put a little bit of dancer in it. 470 00:30:16,041 --> 00:30:18,124 - At first, it's like, we're meant to get up 471 00:30:18,208 --> 00:30:19,124 and dance and stuff. 472 00:30:19,208 --> 00:30:22,958 I was like, oh, no. [laughs] 473 00:30:23,041 --> 00:30:26,166 [chanting] [instrument clacking] 474 00:30:26,249 --> 00:30:29,208 And then I kind of got into it. 475 00:30:31,208 --> 00:30:33,416 It was kind of just quite good to sort of break the ice 476 00:30:33,500 --> 00:30:35,792 and let your inhibitions go 477 00:30:35,875 --> 00:30:37,875 and then, like, just fully throw yourself 478 00:30:37,958 --> 00:30:39,917 into the experience, you know? 479 00:30:39,999 --> 00:30:42,958 [chanting] 480 00:30:46,750 --> 00:30:49,208 - People come to us for a lot of different reasons, 481 00:30:49,291 --> 00:30:52,166 including reasons that they didn't know. 482 00:30:52,249 --> 00:30:54,458 They come for healing, 483 00:30:54,541 --> 00:30:57,166 sometimes it's the back injury, 484 00:30:57,249 --> 00:30:59,833 and sometimes it's a deeper yearning 485 00:30:59,917 --> 00:31:02,625 and a deeper hidden impulse. 486 00:31:05,416 --> 00:31:07,625 - [breathing deeply] 487 00:31:10,917 --> 00:31:13,500 [bones crack softly] 488 00:31:13,583 --> 00:31:15,541 Oh, hear all that? 489 00:31:15,625 --> 00:31:18,875 All the ligaments and tendons popping over the middle. 490 00:31:18,958 --> 00:31:23,041 [inhales] Oh. 491 00:31:23,124 --> 00:31:26,667 Ahh. 492 00:31:28,124 --> 00:31:32,083 My body will be as ready as it can be. 493 00:31:32,166 --> 00:31:37,416 The challenge is getting confidence underwater. 494 00:31:37,500 --> 00:31:38,583 I want to surf in it, 495 00:31:38,667 --> 00:31:39,917 but I don't know if I want to surf in it. 496 00:31:39,999 --> 00:31:42,750 I don't even know how I'm gonna feel when I go back there. 497 00:31:42,833 --> 00:31:44,833 I was trying to paddle in some little waves yesterday, 498 00:31:44,917 --> 00:31:46,375 but it was really terrible. 499 00:31:46,458 --> 00:31:48,333 - Sometimes those little days are harder, though. 500 00:31:48,416 --> 00:31:52,375 - Yeah, and I don't know if I'm gonna even be interested 501 00:31:52,458 --> 00:31:53,541 in riding some big waves. 502 00:31:53,625 --> 00:31:55,041 - You will. - Yeah. 503 00:31:55,124 --> 00:31:57,041 - As soon as you get two under your belt. 504 00:31:57,124 --> 00:31:59,416 - As soon as I get my lungs. 505 00:31:59,500 --> 00:32:01,625 - You'll get a few waves. It'll be clean. 506 00:32:01,708 --> 00:32:03,750 - It'll be all back to normal. - It'll be nice. 507 00:32:03,833 --> 00:32:05,375 - Freaking out. - Yeah. 508 00:32:05,458 --> 00:32:08,249 - [laughs] 509 00:32:08,333 --> 00:32:12,291 - Directly into the heart. 510 00:32:12,375 --> 00:32:14,583 Then turn on the inner legs. 511 00:32:14,667 --> 00:32:16,792 - He's starting to turn on the muscles 512 00:32:16,875 --> 00:32:17,958 that were just flaccid. 513 00:32:18,041 --> 00:32:20,541 He's not such a stress ball around his injury. 514 00:32:20,625 --> 00:32:23,166 It's like, it's changing beautifully. 515 00:32:25,124 --> 00:32:27,792 - Physically, they will be able to do it, 516 00:32:27,875 --> 00:32:30,583 but confidence is a big thing, 517 00:32:30,667 --> 00:32:34,166 the mental preparation. 518 00:32:34,249 --> 00:32:38,500 - We have been working on how to disobey the dictates 519 00:32:38,583 --> 00:32:40,792 of fear because when you're doing anything, 520 00:32:40,875 --> 00:32:43,333 and your fear takes over, you're screwed. 521 00:32:43,416 --> 00:32:46,708 You can't be in the throes of fear 522 00:32:46,792 --> 00:32:50,124 and responding at that profound athletic level 523 00:32:50,208 --> 00:32:52,249 that he needs to be. 524 00:32:52,333 --> 00:32:55,166 If you know you can trust yourself, 525 00:32:55,249 --> 00:32:58,416 then you can trust yourself to do great things. 526 00:32:58,500 --> 00:33:00,999 - I do not worry for them at all. 527 00:33:01,083 --> 00:33:05,667 I think that they are ready. 528 00:33:11,458 --> 00:33:12,999 - Get in your body. 529 00:33:13,083 --> 00:33:16,500 - I suggested the yoga trip to Bali. 530 00:33:16,583 --> 00:33:18,667 [children chatter] 531 00:33:18,750 --> 00:33:20,625 But to get Garrett to go to Bali 532 00:33:20,708 --> 00:33:23,416 for a month with his kids... 533 00:33:25,083 --> 00:33:27,333 Yeah, there had to have been some carrot 534 00:33:27,416 --> 00:33:29,833 at the end of the trip. 535 00:33:29,917 --> 00:33:31,875 The carrot was G-Land. 536 00:33:35,583 --> 00:33:37,541 - It had been about at least 15 years 537 00:33:37,625 --> 00:33:39,541 since I've been to G-Land, 538 00:33:39,625 --> 00:33:42,833 and we were just there to have fun. 539 00:33:42,917 --> 00:33:45,999 - The goal was to get barrels in Indonesia, 540 00:33:46,083 --> 00:33:49,375 and we got to go to G-Land, which has been this wave that, 541 00:33:49,458 --> 00:33:53,500 since I was a little kid, I was like, oh, G-Land. 542 00:33:53,583 --> 00:33:58,166 I first heard about it when I saw "The Endless Summer II." 543 00:33:58,249 --> 00:34:02,333 It's just this remote location that has this wave 544 00:34:02,416 --> 00:34:04,541 that's just, you know, perfect, 545 00:34:04,625 --> 00:34:06,708 and you can get the best wave of your life, you know, 546 00:34:06,792 --> 00:34:08,833 if it's right. 547 00:34:08,917 --> 00:34:12,667 - As I got ready to paddle out, 548 00:34:12,750 --> 00:34:16,208 I looked at my helmet in my bag, 549 00:34:16,291 --> 00:34:19,917 and I decided not to wear it. 550 00:34:19,999 --> 00:34:22,041 I should've put it on. 551 00:34:22,124 --> 00:34:25,041 [soft music] 552 00:34:25,124 --> 00:34:32,124 ♪ ♪ 553 00:34:39,333 --> 00:34:41,708 - He hits the reef, 554 00:34:41,792 --> 00:34:44,999 and he gets a gash in his head 555 00:34:45,083 --> 00:34:46,625 and amnesia. 556 00:34:46,708 --> 00:34:48,917 He doesn't know where his camp is, 557 00:34:48,999 --> 00:34:51,166 nor where his wife is. 558 00:34:55,083 --> 00:34:56,792 - I know--I remember the wave, 559 00:34:56,875 --> 00:34:58,708 and I remember being in the barrel. 560 00:34:58,792 --> 00:35:00,792 I was coming out, and then I--something went wrong, 561 00:35:00,875 --> 00:35:03,249 and then all of a sudden, I hit, 562 00:35:03,333 --> 00:35:06,291 and I was almost knocking out-- almost knocked out. 563 00:35:06,375 --> 00:35:08,208 I was like, fading, fading. 564 00:35:08,291 --> 00:35:10,917 I feel definitely out of it. 565 00:35:10,999 --> 00:35:13,917 I'm having a hard time remembering still. 566 00:35:13,999 --> 00:35:17,208 I shouldn't still be not remembering things, right? 567 00:35:17,291 --> 00:35:19,750 Just-- - No, no, no, it's normal. 568 00:35:19,833 --> 00:35:21,875 - It takes a while? - Yeah, like 24 hours. 569 00:35:21,958 --> 00:35:22,917 - Okay. 570 00:35:22,999 --> 00:35:25,458 - You will ask the same, same, same again, 571 00:35:25,541 --> 00:35:28,750 but it will get better. 572 00:35:28,833 --> 00:35:30,833 - If I hit any harder, I would've knocked out. 573 00:35:30,917 --> 00:35:32,583 I probably wouldn't be here because--I mean, 574 00:35:32,667 --> 00:35:33,917 I have this, so I was floating, 575 00:35:33,999 --> 00:35:37,583 but good luck somebody finding... 576 00:35:37,667 --> 00:35:42,792 My children, my wife, my life flashed before my eyes, 577 00:35:42,875 --> 00:35:45,249 and I thought to myself, is this even worth it? 578 00:35:45,333 --> 00:35:47,625 These little waves, and I could've just died. 579 00:35:47,708 --> 00:35:49,291 I was thinking about my family and stuff, 580 00:35:49,375 --> 00:35:51,208 so I said, oh... 581 00:35:53,208 --> 00:35:55,124 [laughs] 582 00:35:55,208 --> 00:35:58,750 - All right, Garrett, this is gonna sting for a sec. 583 00:35:58,833 --> 00:36:02,124 Okay, just one second. - Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho. 584 00:36:02,208 --> 00:36:03,416 - You all right? - Oh, yeah. 585 00:36:03,500 --> 00:36:05,083 - It's gonna burn just a little bit. 586 00:36:05,166 --> 00:36:07,958 - Ooh, hee-hee-hee-hee, I like it. 587 00:36:08,041 --> 00:36:09,208 - Looking good. 588 00:36:09,291 --> 00:36:10,875 - How about glue, you got any glue? 589 00:36:10,958 --> 00:36:13,458 - No, dude, glue won't cut it for this one. 590 00:36:13,541 --> 00:36:14,667 Yeah, I got worried. 591 00:36:14,750 --> 00:36:17,291 I finally caught another wave and asked someone, 592 00:36:17,375 --> 00:36:18,333 like, "What happened?" 593 00:36:18,416 --> 00:36:20,541 They said, "Oh, he had blood on his head, 594 00:36:20,625 --> 00:36:22,375 didn't know where he was going." 595 00:36:22,458 --> 00:36:24,041 - [laughs] I didn't. 596 00:36:24,124 --> 00:36:25,375 I didn't know where I was staying. 597 00:36:25,458 --> 00:36:27,667 Up until about a couple minutes ago, 598 00:36:27,750 --> 00:36:29,708 I couldn't remember where Nicole went. 599 00:36:29,792 --> 00:36:31,124 - Wow. - Yeah. 600 00:36:31,208 --> 00:36:33,166 - Your brain's really vulnerable at the moment, 601 00:36:33,249 --> 00:36:35,416 and if you hit it again, 602 00:36:35,500 --> 00:36:37,166 you can get permanent brain damage, 603 00:36:37,249 --> 00:36:38,875 and you don't want that. 604 00:36:38,958 --> 00:36:42,792 - You good? - I am good. 605 00:36:42,875 --> 00:36:45,208 Tomorrow's gonna be really good, huh? 606 00:36:45,291 --> 00:36:46,541 - Yeah. 607 00:36:46,625 --> 00:36:49,375 - When Garrett is talking about going out surfing again 608 00:36:49,458 --> 00:36:52,041 when he's still got a bandage around his head, 609 00:36:52,124 --> 00:36:53,875 and he's had a concussion, I'm like, 610 00:36:53,958 --> 00:36:56,875 "Well, the doctor said you shouldn't surf 611 00:36:56,958 --> 00:36:58,917 for at least two weeks." 612 00:36:58,999 --> 00:37:03,333 ♪ ♪ 613 00:37:03,416 --> 00:37:04,667 He just wanted to go out. 614 00:37:04,750 --> 00:37:08,333 There was no convincing him otherwise. 615 00:37:08,416 --> 00:37:09,917 He's like, "Yeah, but it's fine. 616 00:37:09,999 --> 00:37:11,875 I'll put the helmet on. It'll be fine." 617 00:37:11,958 --> 00:37:15,041 And I'm like, "Okay." 618 00:37:15,124 --> 00:37:16,416 ♪ ♪ 619 00:37:16,500 --> 00:37:17,833 - Oh! 620 00:37:24,625 --> 00:37:26,208 - The universe said, "You didn't listen 621 00:37:26,291 --> 00:37:29,416 "to my first sign of your amnesia, 622 00:37:29,500 --> 00:37:32,041 so now I'm gonna have to do something different." 623 00:37:32,124 --> 00:37:39,124 ♪ ♪ 624 00:37:49,999 --> 00:37:52,750 Four days later, we landed in Portugal, 625 00:37:52,833 --> 00:37:55,500 and we went straight to the hospital. 626 00:38:08,500 --> 00:38:11,416 - How did this happen? - Surfing. 627 00:38:11,500 --> 00:38:14,249 The board went-- [clicks] 628 00:38:14,333 --> 00:38:17,291 - Okay, let's have a look at the day of the exams. 629 00:38:17,375 --> 00:38:19,833 Here we see the base of the third metatarsal. 630 00:38:19,917 --> 00:38:22,416 So it's dislocated. - Dislocated. 631 00:38:22,500 --> 00:38:26,458 - Yes, there's no bone here as it's dislocated. 632 00:38:26,541 --> 00:38:28,333 We have to put it back in its place. 633 00:38:28,416 --> 00:38:32,958 What I plan to do is to put a plate over the second 634 00:38:33,041 --> 00:38:35,958 and the third tarsometatarsal joints. 635 00:38:36,041 --> 00:38:39,416 If they're not stable enough, the foot in time will start 636 00:38:39,500 --> 00:38:41,958 to collapse, will start to deform. 637 00:38:42,041 --> 00:38:43,625 You will not be able to walk. 638 00:38:43,708 --> 00:38:48,500 This is the kind of lesion that we have to do surgery. 639 00:38:48,583 --> 00:38:49,625 - Okay. 640 00:38:49,708 --> 00:38:52,917 If we did nothing, he will not be able to walk 641 00:38:52,999 --> 00:38:56,750 as he used to, and I doubt he would be able 642 00:38:56,833 --> 00:39:01,999 to go on a board and surf again as he's used to. 643 00:39:02,083 --> 00:39:05,541 This is the kind of injury you have to fix. 644 00:39:05,625 --> 00:39:07,667 - How long does it take, the whole process 645 00:39:07,750 --> 00:39:09,792 if everything went really smooth? 646 00:39:09,875 --> 00:39:14,500 - For you to be on a board, 647 00:39:14,583 --> 00:39:17,416 not before four months. 648 00:39:19,416 --> 00:39:23,333 - The doctor so gently explained to us 649 00:39:23,416 --> 00:39:25,083 that it was pretty much fractured in, like, 650 00:39:25,166 --> 00:39:29,083 eight places, needed a plate and all these screws, and... 651 00:39:33,249 --> 00:39:34,583 Kay. 652 00:39:37,458 --> 00:39:39,500 It was, like, playing back to me, like, 653 00:39:39,583 --> 00:39:41,667 the shoulder and the months of depression, 654 00:39:41,750 --> 00:39:45,124 and I was like, I can't--I cannot do it again. 655 00:40:09,999 --> 00:40:16,958 ♪ ♪ 656 00:40:20,208 --> 00:40:24,124 - Thank you for coming in. - You're welcome. 657 00:40:24,208 --> 00:40:25,667 - When I got the wipeout, 658 00:40:25,750 --> 00:40:27,875 my family flashed between my eyes 659 00:40:27,958 --> 00:40:30,541 and them losing me. 660 00:40:30,625 --> 00:40:33,124 There's always the potential of getting injured lurking 661 00:40:33,208 --> 00:40:36,875 in the back of my mind since the shoulder surgery 662 00:40:36,958 --> 00:40:39,833 that makes me think twice about everything. 663 00:40:41,375 --> 00:40:47,917 ♪ ♪ 664 00:40:47,999 --> 00:40:49,792 [grunts] 665 00:41:10,041 --> 00:41:14,124 - Feel good, in good hands. 666 00:41:14,208 --> 00:41:18,291 To be honest, when I got hurt, I was almost relieved. 667 00:41:18,375 --> 00:41:21,625 I feel like I need a little more time. 668 00:41:21,708 --> 00:41:24,333 When my body feels 100%, 669 00:41:24,416 --> 00:41:27,625 the big wave will come. 670 00:41:27,708 --> 00:41:30,124 And if I feel like riding it, I will. 671 00:41:30,208 --> 00:41:33,333 ♪ ♪ 672 00:41:33,416 --> 00:41:35,917 [monitor beeping] 673 00:41:54,583 --> 00:41:57,999 Today, my flight leaves at 1:00 from Bristol. 674 00:41:58,083 --> 00:42:00,875 I'm flying to Nazaré. 675 00:42:00,958 --> 00:42:05,208 I've got sort of physical training to begin with 676 00:42:05,291 --> 00:42:06,708 and hopefully some waves, 677 00:42:06,792 --> 00:42:12,333 and then sort of big wave season kicks off. 678 00:42:12,416 --> 00:42:14,541 - What's a quart graph? Okay. 679 00:42:14,625 --> 00:42:18,708 - A what? - A quart graph. 680 00:42:18,792 --> 00:42:21,166 - No idea. I can't do any of that. 681 00:42:21,249 --> 00:42:23,166 - It's mental, isn't it? - Yeah. 682 00:42:23,249 --> 00:42:27,375 - It's like, why would you even need to know that, though? 683 00:42:27,458 --> 00:42:29,875 Ace, he likes it when I'm injured 684 00:42:29,958 --> 00:42:31,208 'cause, you know, I'm home more, 685 00:42:31,291 --> 00:42:35,583 and yeah, you miss him, you know. 686 00:42:35,667 --> 00:42:37,249 You do sort of think, you know, like, 687 00:42:37,333 --> 00:42:38,458 "What's it all about? 688 00:42:38,541 --> 00:42:41,750 Is it really worth putting everything on the line?" 689 00:42:48,625 --> 00:42:50,500 - All right? - Yeah. 690 00:42:50,583 --> 00:42:52,708 - But you don't fear death, you know? 691 00:42:52,792 --> 00:42:54,958 Like, I don't fear dying. 692 00:42:58,917 --> 00:43:03,083 But I get more fearful of, like, 693 00:43:03,166 --> 00:43:04,583 not being able to surf again, you know? 694 00:43:04,667 --> 00:43:07,375 Like, I fear that. 695 00:43:07,458 --> 00:43:12,667 ♪ ♪ 696 00:43:20,833 --> 00:43:22,583 - Technically shouldn't even have been able 697 00:43:22,667 --> 00:43:25,958 to surf that season, but Garrett had his mind set 698 00:43:26,041 --> 00:43:27,667 on getting back as soon as possible 699 00:43:27,750 --> 00:43:30,792 I think because he knew I was so mad he broke his foot 700 00:43:30,875 --> 00:43:34,041 that he was like, "I better, like, get it better fast." 701 00:43:34,124 --> 00:43:35,249 - How are you? 702 00:43:35,333 --> 00:43:36,541 - Good. 703 00:43:37,833 --> 00:43:40,458 - That's the least excited I've ever heard you say it. 704 00:43:40,541 --> 00:43:43,208 - Well, I'm good, but I'm just--you know, 705 00:43:43,291 --> 00:43:48,416 I got six weeks of off the foot and six weeks of rehab, 706 00:43:48,500 --> 00:43:51,375 and that's the best case scenario. 707 00:43:54,083 --> 00:43:56,458 [exhales] 708 00:43:56,541 --> 00:43:59,208 - I think Garrett definitely feels pressure 709 00:43:59,291 --> 00:44:01,458 to get out there. 710 00:44:01,541 --> 00:44:03,166 I'm sure some people really look forward 711 00:44:03,249 --> 00:44:05,166 to seeing him surf, and the Portuguese people 712 00:44:05,249 --> 00:44:07,708 definitely love seeing him getting out there and surf. 713 00:44:10,083 --> 00:44:11,541 - Ah. - Yeah. 714 00:44:13,500 --> 00:44:16,208 - When we first came here, nobody knew who Garrett was 715 00:44:16,291 --> 00:44:18,249 because this was not a surfing town. 716 00:44:18,333 --> 00:44:19,999 It wasn't a surfing country. 717 00:44:20,083 --> 00:44:21,625 [upbeat music] 718 00:44:21,708 --> 00:44:24,124 But now he's like the George Clooney 719 00:44:24,208 --> 00:44:25,500 of Portugal. 720 00:44:25,583 --> 00:44:26,833 - [speaking Portuguese] 721 00:44:26,917 --> 00:44:29,625 - It's amazing how much just seeing him 722 00:44:29,708 --> 00:44:31,375 lights the Portuguese people up. 723 00:44:31,458 --> 00:44:33,124 [horn honks] 724 00:44:54,458 --> 00:44:57,917 - He showed that we are a surfing country. 725 00:44:57,999 --> 00:45:00,124 We can attract the best athletes in the world 726 00:45:00,208 --> 00:45:03,333 to do things that for common mortals 727 00:45:03,416 --> 00:45:05,792 are completely impossible. 728 00:45:05,875 --> 00:45:08,333 - Looking good. 729 00:45:08,416 --> 00:45:10,416 - The old ladies love him. 730 00:45:15,083 --> 00:45:16,875 - How you doing? - Fine. 731 00:45:16,958 --> 00:45:18,416 - Been a while, huh? - Yes. 732 00:45:30,583 --> 00:45:32,041 - We have a bunch of friends coming over, 733 00:45:32,124 --> 00:45:33,041 so I would love to get some fish, 734 00:45:33,124 --> 00:45:34,541 whatever you guys recommend. 735 00:45:34,625 --> 00:45:36,166 - Okay. - [laughs] 736 00:45:36,249 --> 00:45:38,500 - The king of Nazaré! 737 00:45:44,249 --> 00:45:47,416 - Let's have a look at your X-ray. 738 00:45:47,500 --> 00:45:51,166 So everything seems to be okay. 739 00:45:51,249 --> 00:45:53,792 He's moving already his foot a lot, 740 00:45:53,875 --> 00:45:55,458 no need to move more. 741 00:45:55,541 --> 00:45:58,500 We have to go slowly but surely. 742 00:46:04,083 --> 00:46:06,166 Seems to be healed. 743 00:46:07,333 --> 00:46:08,917 - Well, I'm glad I got the surgery 744 00:46:08,999 --> 00:46:11,750 'cause it feels great. 745 00:46:11,833 --> 00:46:14,291 - Last one. 746 00:46:14,375 --> 00:46:16,458 You did it. - Oh, my goodness! 747 00:46:16,541 --> 00:46:19,500 [laughs] Good job. 748 00:46:20,833 --> 00:46:23,667 After the surgery, there was no pain. 749 00:46:23,750 --> 00:46:26,041 It was a miracle. 750 00:46:29,583 --> 00:46:31,583 I told Nicole, "I am not gonna do anything. 751 00:46:31,667 --> 00:46:35,124 I'm just gonna stay here, focus on healing my foot." 752 00:46:35,208 --> 00:46:38,458 And then I said to myself, "Man, I got all this time. 753 00:46:38,541 --> 00:46:41,375 I might as well utilize it." 754 00:46:41,458 --> 00:46:44,792 And I've never been to Africa. 755 00:46:44,875 --> 00:46:46,917 [drums thrumming] 756 00:46:46,999 --> 00:46:50,500 - So Garrett and CJ went to Angola 757 00:46:50,583 --> 00:46:52,458 for a beach cleanup. 758 00:46:52,541 --> 00:46:54,625 ♪ ♪ 759 00:46:54,708 --> 00:46:58,124 And then they went to South Africa 760 00:46:58,208 --> 00:47:02,833 to work with Waves for Change who provide surf therapy 761 00:47:02,917 --> 00:47:06,583 and mentorship to underprivileged youth there. 762 00:47:06,667 --> 00:47:09,083 - So is everybody ready to get in the water? 763 00:47:09,166 --> 00:47:11,208 all: Yes! 764 00:47:11,291 --> 00:47:12,999 - Let's go surfing! 765 00:47:13,083 --> 00:47:14,583 [all cheer] 766 00:47:14,667 --> 00:47:21,708 ♪ ♪ 767 00:47:23,291 --> 00:47:26,124 - And then we went to New York because Garrett had a meeting 768 00:47:26,208 --> 00:47:28,500 to build a survival suit. 769 00:47:28,583 --> 00:47:31,625 - We're in New York, and my buddy Kyle 770 00:47:31,708 --> 00:47:33,500 is helping me put together a suit 771 00:47:33,583 --> 00:47:34,833 that I've been dreaming about making 772 00:47:34,917 --> 00:47:37,124 for the last 15 years. 773 00:47:37,208 --> 00:47:40,500 There's no real solid suit for waves over 80 feet. 774 00:47:40,583 --> 00:47:43,500 - See if there's things we need to add in. 775 00:47:43,583 --> 00:47:47,333 - The survival suits in 2011 that we used, 776 00:47:47,416 --> 00:47:51,500 most of them were, like, Garrett's kind of creation, 777 00:47:51,583 --> 00:47:56,500 and it's just taking, like, flotation from life vests 778 00:47:56,583 --> 00:47:59,124 and just stuffing into the wetsuit 779 00:47:59,208 --> 00:48:01,083 in the spots that you need it. 780 00:48:01,166 --> 00:48:04,750 Now the evolution is having a bladder that inflates 781 00:48:04,833 --> 00:48:09,416 when we pull a cord. 782 00:48:09,500 --> 00:48:10,958 - Crazy, isn't it? 783 00:48:11,041 --> 00:48:13,249 - So Garrett's trying to design a suit 784 00:48:13,333 --> 00:48:14,833 that's as comfortable as possible, 785 00:48:14,917 --> 00:48:16,875 so you can be fully free and mobile 786 00:48:16,958 --> 00:48:20,667 but also really solid and safe. 787 00:48:20,750 --> 00:48:23,333 - Once in a while in Nazaré, you come up, 788 00:48:23,416 --> 00:48:25,541 and then there's this monster, 789 00:48:25,625 --> 00:48:27,166 and you gotta try and swim through it. 790 00:48:27,249 --> 00:48:30,708 You deflate real quick while you're waiting and then, ahh! 791 00:48:30,792 --> 00:48:36,041 Get through, and then you can have another one breaking, 792 00:48:36,124 --> 00:48:38,917 and... 793 00:48:38,999 --> 00:48:42,249 - I think building this ultimate survival suit 794 00:48:42,333 --> 00:48:44,583 is gonna give Garrett the confidence he needs 795 00:48:44,667 --> 00:48:49,249 to do this for as long as he wants into his old age, 796 00:48:49,333 --> 00:48:52,416 and it's just gonna, like, keep him together like armor. 797 00:48:52,500 --> 00:48:55,792 - Whoa, holy shit. - [laughs] 798 00:48:59,500 --> 00:49:02,416 [soft music] 799 00:49:02,500 --> 00:49:04,708 - When I got on the plane to Nazaré, 800 00:49:04,792 --> 00:49:06,750 my foot was feeling great. 801 00:49:06,833 --> 00:49:10,249 By the time we got off, it was swollen and sore, 802 00:49:10,333 --> 00:49:14,124 and I thought maybe I reinjured it somehow 803 00:49:14,208 --> 00:49:18,249 from sitting with my foot down for too long. 804 00:49:18,333 --> 00:49:20,375 - Traveling's, like, the last thing you want to do 805 00:49:20,458 --> 00:49:21,583 with a broken foot. 806 00:49:21,667 --> 00:49:23,416 - Do you see it? 807 00:49:23,500 --> 00:49:27,166 - He was feeling frustration from what I could see of, 808 00:49:27,249 --> 00:49:29,124 you know, having to do all these things 809 00:49:29,208 --> 00:49:32,708 and wanting to really take care of his foot. 810 00:49:32,792 --> 00:49:35,124 And then there was waves of being grumpy. 811 00:49:35,208 --> 00:49:36,625 You know, you're pinned on the couch. 812 00:49:36,708 --> 00:49:39,541 You can't go anywhere. You start snapping at people. 813 00:49:41,917 --> 00:49:44,166 [child cries] 814 00:49:45,541 --> 00:49:48,625 - I've never been so unprepared to ride a big wave 815 00:49:48,708 --> 00:49:50,625 ever in my life. 816 00:49:50,708 --> 00:49:53,541 I got to Africa and ran around. 817 00:49:54,917 --> 00:49:57,792 Then I went to New York and ran around. 818 00:49:57,875 --> 00:50:00,958 And it's only my own self-sabotage 819 00:50:01,041 --> 00:50:04,708 that I did by choice. 820 00:50:04,792 --> 00:50:07,667 And I could've said, "Sorry, no, I'm staying home. 821 00:50:07,750 --> 00:50:10,249 I need to focus on my foot." 822 00:50:11,208 --> 00:50:13,166 And I thought it was a good idea 823 00:50:13,249 --> 00:50:14,667 because I couldn't surf, 824 00:50:14,750 --> 00:50:16,500 so I might as well do other things, 825 00:50:16,583 --> 00:50:19,875 but to get back in the water, you gotta focus 826 00:50:19,958 --> 00:50:22,333 on getting back in the water, not doing other things. 827 00:50:22,416 --> 00:50:25,833 Check out the storm, CJ. 828 00:50:25,917 --> 00:50:29,208 It's as big as we've seen. 829 00:50:29,291 --> 00:50:32,333 60 to 80 feet on Wednesday, magic. 830 00:50:32,416 --> 00:50:34,833 Straight down the pipe. - Huge, huh? 831 00:50:34,917 --> 00:50:36,792 - Huge. - Look at the center of it. 832 00:50:36,875 --> 00:50:39,500 - The wave that I've been dreaming about for years is 833 00:50:39,583 --> 00:50:41,875 actually on the maps and potentially coming in, 834 00:50:41,958 --> 00:50:47,792 and I'm 100% not ready physically. 835 00:50:49,792 --> 00:50:51,667 I could ride it, and if I make it, 836 00:50:51,750 --> 00:50:55,041 I'll be fine, but if I don't, 837 00:50:55,124 --> 00:50:58,208 there's a potential of not coming home. 838 00:50:58,291 --> 00:51:01,917 [soft music] 839 00:51:01,999 --> 00:51:05,541 - Garrett don't have to stay 20 hours on the water now. 840 00:51:05,625 --> 00:51:08,583 He have kids. He have family. 841 00:51:08,667 --> 00:51:11,708 He have to make all the stuff there, 842 00:51:11,792 --> 00:51:13,667 and he have to calm down a little bit. 843 00:51:13,750 --> 00:51:15,291 - [grunts] 844 00:51:17,792 --> 00:51:19,124 - No. 845 00:51:24,833 --> 00:51:27,625 And he's the best of the world. 846 00:51:27,708 --> 00:51:31,375 I think Garrett have to stay around, and have fun, 847 00:51:31,458 --> 00:51:35,875 and take control of the life, and growing up with the kids, 848 00:51:35,958 --> 00:51:38,750 and that's it. 849 00:51:38,833 --> 00:51:43,917 I think it's the most difficult decision 850 00:51:43,999 --> 00:51:49,708 to look at the mirror and say, it's time to stop. 851 00:51:49,792 --> 00:51:53,792 I think a surf guy never feel that. 852 00:51:53,875 --> 00:51:57,541 - I do not know when big wave surfers finally say 853 00:51:57,625 --> 00:51:59,792 they've had enough. 854 00:51:59,875 --> 00:52:02,375 Haven't seen it yet. [chuckles] 855 00:52:04,291 --> 00:52:07,625 - There's a point in surfing when it might end up 856 00:52:07,708 --> 00:52:10,958 becoming selfish when you're not putting your family first. 857 00:52:11,041 --> 00:52:15,124 And I think Garrett's been fighting the demons, 858 00:52:15,208 --> 00:52:17,833 and I think there's gonna be a time when Garrett 859 00:52:17,917 --> 00:52:21,667 has to hang it up, call it a day, call it a career, 860 00:52:21,750 --> 00:52:24,750 and be there for his family, and kids, and things, 861 00:52:24,833 --> 00:52:28,166 and not risk his life for the 100-foot wave 862 00:52:28,249 --> 00:52:30,041 'cause it may never happen. 863 00:52:32,208 --> 00:52:36,792 - I think it's personal when you decide when the end is. 864 00:52:36,875 --> 00:52:40,124 When you lose the emotional capacity 865 00:52:40,208 --> 00:52:42,041 to be able to go do it, 866 00:52:42,124 --> 00:52:44,291 then I think the physical leaves. 867 00:52:44,375 --> 00:52:46,124 And I think some people, that never ends. 868 00:52:46,208 --> 00:52:47,999 Maybe some people, they just don't ever 869 00:52:48,083 --> 00:52:51,041 not want that feeling. 870 00:52:51,124 --> 00:52:54,208 - I don't think you call it a day on surfing. 871 00:52:54,291 --> 00:52:56,458 I think maybe you'd call it a day on, like, 872 00:52:56,541 --> 00:53:00,500 chasing it and risking it all. 873 00:53:00,583 --> 00:53:03,333 But you don't call it a day on surfing, do you? 874 00:53:03,416 --> 00:53:06,667 [dramatic string music] 875 00:53:06,750 --> 00:53:08,500 - Portuguese authorities have now 876 00:53:08,583 --> 00:53:11,500 issued a red weather warning. 877 00:53:11,583 --> 00:53:14,583 They say coastal areas are likely to get a battering 878 00:53:14,667 --> 00:53:16,500 from the incoming weather front. 879 00:53:16,583 --> 00:53:19,333 ♪ ♪ 880 00:53:19,416 --> 00:53:21,166 - Strengthening storm is expected 881 00:53:21,249 --> 00:53:23,333 to bring downpours and strong winds. 882 00:53:23,416 --> 00:53:26,667 ♪ ♪ 883 00:53:26,750 --> 00:53:28,833 - Of course, apart from wind and rain, 884 00:53:28,917 --> 00:53:33,124 this storm could also generate significant surf conditions. 885 00:53:33,208 --> 00:53:36,208 - Luigi texts back, 886 00:53:36,291 --> 00:53:38,875 "Guy who really want to see his X-rays." 887 00:53:38,958 --> 00:53:41,875 He said, "Good." Yes! 888 00:53:41,958 --> 00:53:43,208 Time to rock and roll. 889 00:53:43,291 --> 00:53:47,124 Now it's time to get serious, time to train hard. 890 00:53:47,208 --> 00:53:50,041 Time to get CJ in the water. 891 00:53:50,124 --> 00:53:54,208 Time to get in the water real soon. 892 00:53:54,291 --> 00:53:56,750 I'll be driving the jet ski, maybe surfing. 893 00:53:56,833 --> 00:54:00,999 ♪ ♪ 894 00:54:01,083 --> 00:54:03,999 [upbeat music] 895 00:54:04,083 --> 00:54:11,083 ♪ ♪ 896 00:55:10,708 --> 00:55:12,541 [bright tone] 897 00:55:14,541 --> 00:55:16,541 SPEAKER: I want to thank you for coming to the inaugural, 898 00:55:16,625 --> 00:55:18,041 Nazare, pro-surfing challenge. 899 00:55:18,583 --> 00:55:21,124 This is gonna be the greatest show in surfing. 900 00:55:21,208 --> 00:55:22,291 ♪ (TENSE MUSIC PLAYS) ♪ 901 00:55:22,375 --> 00:55:23,917 SPEAKER 2: Every important big-wave surfer, 902 00:55:23,999 --> 00:55:25,041 everyone's there. 903 00:55:25,249 --> 00:55:28,041 SPEAKER 3: Justine is one of the standout surfers. 904 00:55:28,625 --> 00:55:31,041 Everyone wants that wave that's gonna make your career. 905 00:55:31,124 --> 00:55:33,708 SPEAKER 4: But they've got some serious competition. 906 00:55:34,249 --> 00:55:37,083 Garrett's the ultimate example of the old guard. 907 00:55:37,166 --> 00:55:39,917 The new guard is represented by Kai Lenny. 908 00:55:41,291 --> 00:55:43,416 Just like you're going to the Super Bowl of surfing. 909 00:55:43,500 --> 00:55:45,875 I can't wait to see these guys out there 910 00:55:46,124 --> 00:55:48,166 giving it their best, and it's gonna be a great show. 911 00:55:48,541 --> 00:55:49,999 SPEAKER 5: Go, go, go, go. 912 00:55:50,083 --> 00:55:51,875 (WAVE CRASHING) 913 00:55:51,958 --> 00:55:55,124 ♪ (SOLEMN OUTRO MUSIC PLAYS) ♪