1 00:01:52,858 --> 00:01:56,816 I was the only child, rather solitary by nature. 2 00:01:57,858 --> 00:02:01,650 I learned to swim in the river and there I met Loonie - 3 00:02:01,816 --> 00:02:04,900 - who started helping me to understand fear. 4 00:02:30,941 --> 00:02:34,316 Do you think that you can row this over the reef? 5 00:02:34,483 --> 00:02:38,775 I don't know that. I suppose that on the right day you probably can. 6 00:02:38,941 --> 00:02:43,483 I don't know if you can get it back in. Varför skulle du vilja göra det? 7 00:02:43,650 --> 00:02:49,691 - I don't know. It's the sea. - Okay. Then throw it away. 8 00:03:03,358 --> 00:03:07,066 There are more fish in here anyway. 9 00:03:12,775 --> 00:03:17,233 - But I don't think you should. - So you don't think I do? 10 00:03:17,400 --> 00:03:20,025 - I just... - Listen. 11 00:03:21,983 --> 00:03:24,275 Here he comes. 12 00:03:31,941 --> 00:03:37,483 - I don't think we should do it. - We? And don't follow me. 13 00:03:37,650 --> 00:03:41,150 You're just flipping. Don't follow me! 14 00:04:17,650 --> 00:04:19,941 Very good food, Mrs. Pike. 15 00:04:20,108 --> 00:04:24,275 I'm sure your mother can cook corned beef, Ivan. 16 00:04:24,441 --> 00:04:27,650 - How did you get that eye? - Cricket. 17 00:04:29,525 --> 00:04:33,483 Two boys were playing out on the highway this morning. 18 00:04:33,650 --> 00:04:37,525 The driver almost lost control over his truck when he cross-riveted. 19 00:04:37,691 --> 00:04:42,316 Oh no. Those idiots. I know those guys. 20 00:04:42,483 --> 00:04:45,650 - Well, do you? - Yes. 21 00:04:47,191 --> 00:04:53,233 - Who are they? - Just fools from the top down... 22 00:04:53,400 --> 00:04:56,525 from... 23 00:04:56,691 --> 00:05:03,108 Angelus guys. Yes, Angelus guys. They are one... real rascals. 24 00:05:10,400 --> 00:05:13,150 So very good. 25 00:05:27,900 --> 00:05:33,983 Hope you said your prayers. If not God watches over you no one else does. 26 00:05:36,191 --> 00:05:39,983 - Good night, Ivan. - Excuse me, Mrs. Pike. 27 00:05:40,150 --> 00:05:42,816 Do you think I can get one like that? 28 00:05:45,400 --> 00:05:47,900 Thanks. 29 00:06:01,733 --> 00:06:06,108 - I didn't know you play cricket. - I don't. I hate cricket. 30 00:06:06,275 --> 00:06:10,691 I was caught with to snuff daddy's cigar. 31 00:06:10,858 --> 00:06:12,941 Good night, Pikey. 32 00:06:47,358 --> 00:06:49,941 Some old man. They fished from the rocks. 33 00:06:50,108 --> 00:06:53,400 - Did he drown? - Yes, he sunk like a rock. 34 00:06:53,566 --> 00:06:58,150 And your father saw it from the first floor. So, so it is. 35 00:06:58,316 --> 00:07:01,858 That's why he doesn't want to that you stand out here. 36 00:07:03,233 --> 00:07:08,108 - How far is this? - I don't know. 37 00:07:08,275 --> 00:07:10,691 If she puts her hand in your pocket then? 38 00:07:10,858 --> 00:07:15,733 - Why would she do that? - Don't know. To see what she finds. 39 00:07:17,858 --> 00:07:21,191 I know what she finds if she puts it in my pocket. 40 00:07:21,358 --> 00:07:24,941 A flawless and solid cock. 41 00:07:25,108 --> 00:07:29,275 Nice-to-wear-the-miracle. She had found that. 42 00:07:29,441 --> 00:07:33,191 - Watch out. Out of the way. - Keep pedaling, boys! 43 00:07:33,358 --> 00:07:38,025 - Look there. - Come on, it's not that far. 44 00:07:41,900 --> 00:07:44,108 I have it. 45 00:07:47,566 --> 00:07:49,483 Wait! 46 00:07:52,525 --> 00:07:55,691 You will fall in love! Release! 47 00:07:57,358 --> 00:08:00,941 No, seriously. Release now! 48 00:08:04,650 --> 00:08:08,191 Oh, ha-ha-ha! Oh, damn it! 49 00:08:25,025 --> 00:08:28,691 It is quite small. But nice and clean. 50 00:08:28,858 --> 00:08:31,858 I'm going for a walk. 51 00:08:32,025 --> 00:08:36,358 Do you think the waves are getting higher when the high tide comes? 52 00:08:52,150 --> 00:08:56,650 I had never seen men make something so beautiful… 53 00:08:56,816 --> 00:08:59,566 so pointless and elegant. 54 00:09:04,025 --> 00:09:06,608 It was as if to dance on water - 55 00:09:06,775 --> 00:09:10,566 - was the best and bravest a man could do. 56 00:09:32,150 --> 00:09:35,483 - Thanks, corner. - See you guys. 57 00:09:41,483 --> 00:09:45,066 - See you. - See you. 58 00:09:45,233 --> 00:09:49,108 - Hello, Mr. Pike! - Good day, Ivan. 59 00:09:49,275 --> 00:09:53,566 - Nice day, huh? Absolutely fantastic! - Where have you been? 60 00:09:53,733 --> 00:09:58,358 - Out cycling. They drove us home. - Your mother was beside herself with worry. 61 00:09:58,525 --> 00:10:04,441 So go in and apologize and then come out and bring in the chickens. 62 00:10:15,650 --> 00:10:20,275 Our first boards were Coolites. Short, square styrofoam boards - 63 00:10:20,441 --> 00:10:23,150 - that squeaked when you picked them up. They were right cash - 64 00:10:23,316 --> 00:10:27,191 - but we thought that they were fantastic. 65 00:11:14,233 --> 00:11:17,108 Yes, now it's four. 66 00:11:21,066 --> 00:11:25,483 What we need are real boards. Real fiberglass, hard. 67 00:11:25,650 --> 00:11:30,566 With large stiff fins. What do you say, Pikelet? 68 00:11:31,983 --> 00:11:35,816 - Yes. Yes, okay. - Terrible. 69 00:11:35,983 --> 00:11:40,358 Look at you two stupid idiots. It's raining. 70 00:11:40,525 --> 00:11:44,775 And the water is freezing cold and you guys swim? 71 00:11:44,941 --> 00:11:47,650 We devils like to swim, Dad. 72 00:11:51,983 --> 00:11:54,816 Five dollars a load to chop it up. 73 00:11:56,108 --> 00:12:00,275 Are you interested? And there will be four more loads. 74 00:12:03,400 --> 00:12:07,025 If you don't I'll get someone else. 75 00:12:09,316 --> 00:12:12,275 - 20 dollars a load. - No. 76 00:12:13,358 --> 00:12:16,191 15? 77 00:12:16,358 --> 00:12:21,941 - Ten. Damn, ten! - So? 78 00:12:22,108 --> 00:12:25,858 - Where. - You can go to hell. 79 00:12:35,566 --> 00:12:39,233 I should... I want to kill it. 80 00:12:43,108 --> 00:12:46,150 what are you doing 81 00:13:02,941 --> 00:13:09,400 I don't want you to tell the others where did you get these from. 82 00:13:09,566 --> 00:13:12,733 Because they are crap boards. Therefore. 83 00:13:19,858 --> 00:13:22,650 - Thanks, Slipper. - Thank you. 84 00:13:26,275 --> 00:13:29,816 Mine is better. Mine has wings. It's cooler. 85 00:14:41,441 --> 00:14:43,983 My first wave that morning. 86 00:14:44,983 --> 00:14:48,233 I leaned out over the wall of water - 87 00:14:48,400 --> 00:14:53,566 - och brädan följde med mig som vore the part of my body and brain. 88 00:15:15,900 --> 00:15:19,858 To this day I compare every moment of happiness, victory and discovery - 89 00:15:20,025 --> 00:15:24,608 - with the first few seconds when I rode that wave. 90 00:15:30,316 --> 00:15:34,025 Surely it is wonderful to live? 91 00:15:34,191 --> 00:15:37,483 Okay. Jump up back there! Come on! 92 00:15:47,108 --> 00:15:50,983 - Do you need a ride? - Our bikes are at the top of the hill. 93 00:15:51,150 --> 00:15:54,233 Yes, jump in. 94 00:16:07,608 --> 00:16:10,566 Right here. 95 00:16:19,108 --> 00:16:22,275 - You two are daredevils. - What is it? 96 00:16:22,441 --> 00:16:25,858 Who surfs bareback in all weathers. How old are you? 97 00:16:26,025 --> 00:16:31,900 - 14. Bullshit. He's not 13. - 13 and a half then. Jeez. 98 00:16:32,066 --> 00:16:36,983 If you get tired of lugging your boards then you can leave them where we live. 99 00:16:37,150 --> 00:16:40,525 First entrance on the left, one kilometer up the asphalt. 100 00:16:40,691 --> 00:16:44,816 - Okay. Thanks for the ride. - Okay, cool. Thank you. 101 00:16:50,108 --> 00:16:51,775 Come on! 102 00:17:04,816 --> 00:17:08,150 What do you think? 103 00:17:08,316 --> 00:17:11,150 Hippies. That's what I think. 104 00:17:14,650 --> 00:17:19,775 No, damn it. I'm completely exhausted. 105 00:17:38,483 --> 00:17:41,400 Of course they are hippies, always. 106 00:17:41,566 --> 00:17:46,233 Hello? Is anyone home? 107 00:18:36,733 --> 00:18:40,941 Come check this out. A clear hippie love nest. 108 00:18:41,108 --> 00:18:45,566 You shouldn't be up there, Loonie. Looney! We should probably knit. 109 00:18:45,733 --> 00:18:48,441 Yes, yes, I'm coming. 110 00:18:50,775 --> 00:18:53,358 Don't get all mad now. 111 00:18:56,941 --> 00:19:00,733 'We should probably knit, Loonie.' 112 00:19:17,358 --> 00:19:20,191 Good morning. 113 00:19:48,108 --> 00:19:52,983 - A Brewer. - It's pure fucking paradise. 114 00:19:54,691 --> 00:19:57,650 Have you boys gone wrong? 115 00:19:57,816 --> 00:20:01,275 - We were going to pick up our boards. - They are there. 116 00:20:01,441 --> 00:20:05,733 - Well, do they? - He the guy said we got. 117 00:20:07,108 --> 00:20:09,733 You better show me. 118 00:20:14,400 --> 00:20:17,400 This one is mine. 119 00:20:18,608 --> 00:20:22,441 That's his. 120 00:20:25,941 --> 00:20:27,983 He is not here. 121 00:20:28,150 --> 00:20:29,733 - Who? - Sando. 122 00:20:29,900 --> 00:20:32,233 - Who? - The guy. 123 00:20:32,400 --> 00:20:36,275 Yeah, okay. Sando. Where is he then? 124 00:20:36,441 --> 00:20:40,525 - He could be in Indonesia, for all I know. - Really? 125 00:20:40,691 --> 00:20:44,400 It doesn't lie beyond the limits of the possible. 126 00:20:46,316 --> 00:20:51,983 - Well, what's your name then? - Eve. 127 00:20:52,150 --> 00:20:56,150 And where are you from, Eva? 128 00:20:56,316 --> 00:21:01,316 - From the USA. - I hear the American, but which part? 129 00:21:02,358 --> 00:21:05,025 - Utah. - 'U-tarr'... 130 00:21:09,941 --> 00:21:14,816 Can we put them back later? Your guy said we could. 131 00:21:18,108 --> 00:21:21,150 See you, Eva. 132 00:21:23,150 --> 00:21:25,733 - I saw that she liked me. - Huh? 133 00:21:25,900 --> 00:21:29,150 She looked at me with that special look. 134 00:21:29,316 --> 00:21:34,441 - She wasn't looking at anything. - Exactly. She couldn't look at me. 135 00:21:34,608 --> 00:21:37,150 - I don't know. - You can't do that, Pikelet. 136 00:21:37,316 --> 00:21:40,900 - But you'll learn soon. - She is probably his wife. 137 00:21:41,066 --> 00:21:44,233 And? Don't like wives? Huh? 138 00:21:50,400 --> 00:21:54,775 The sea was different that day, but we paddled out anyway. 139 00:21:54,941 --> 00:21:57,816 Because we didn't know better. 140 00:22:11,441 --> 00:22:13,941 What say you, lintot? 141 00:22:14,108 --> 00:22:16,233 - Are you going to surf? - Stick! 142 00:22:16,400 --> 00:22:19,941 Here it comes. Into it. 143 00:22:53,608 --> 00:22:56,983 Take the next one in, kid. 144 00:22:59,066 --> 00:23:01,816 You're expecting a little one, right? 145 00:23:17,275 --> 00:23:18,566 Damn. 146 00:23:18,733 --> 00:23:24,191 Listen, dumbass, if you don't take the next one then I'll take it after that. 147 00:23:24,358 --> 00:23:28,233 Then you get to lie out here alone all damn night. 148 00:23:28,400 --> 00:23:32,691 Get into it, kid! Into it! 149 00:24:00,233 --> 00:24:04,191 - But mine then? - Did you see that? 150 00:24:04,358 --> 00:24:08,358 - You flipped brutally. - It was huge. 151 00:24:08,525 --> 00:24:11,608 Mine went all the way in. 152 00:24:24,316 --> 00:24:29,191 He's out there, huh? Damn take him. Jeez. 153 00:24:39,691 --> 00:24:42,608 - Woo-hoo...! - Okay, come on, now we're going. 154 00:24:42,775 --> 00:24:46,691 Only an idiot is out there a day like this. 155 00:24:49,150 --> 00:24:52,483 I will surf there one day. Are you challenging me? 156 00:24:55,108 --> 00:24:58,691 I challenge you to challenge me. 157 00:25:01,316 --> 00:25:04,066 What is that there? 158 00:25:04,233 --> 00:25:10,733 They built a raft and sailed it across the entire Pacific Ocean with the current. 159 00:25:10,900 --> 00:25:13,858 It's incredible. 160 00:25:29,441 --> 00:25:32,441 Are we...? 161 00:25:32,608 --> 00:25:35,525 - You and me? - Yes. 162 00:25:44,233 --> 00:25:47,816 Here they are. Heckle and Jeckle. 163 00:25:47,983 --> 00:25:52,733 - They're looking for trouble. - Check these out. 164 00:25:52,900 --> 00:25:58,816 - I heard you got waves the other day. - Yes. They were around seven or eight feet. 165 00:25:58,983 --> 00:26:01,441 Yes, a couple of nine-footers too. 166 00:26:01,608 --> 00:26:06,608 - Yes, it was massive. - Seven or eight feet, huh? 167 00:26:07,608 --> 00:26:12,316 Yes, yes... I'm going to test surf this one. 168 00:26:12,483 --> 00:26:15,816 You can ride along if you want to get wet. 169 00:26:15,983 --> 00:26:19,066 Get wet. Absolutely. 170 00:26:20,441 --> 00:26:23,233 Put your boards back there. 171 00:26:33,108 --> 00:26:35,816 Rooster! Up on the flatbed! 172 00:26:37,441 --> 00:26:39,983 Good guy. 173 00:26:40,150 --> 00:26:42,816 Vi ses sen. 174 00:26:57,858 --> 00:27:01,358 I caught one at least as big. He pooped on himself. 175 00:27:01,525 --> 00:27:05,233 - He had never surfed something this big. - Not you either. 176 00:27:05,400 --> 00:27:08,858 I rode one all the way in and then kicked out into the sand. 177 00:27:09,025 --> 00:27:12,025 It was impressive. - Did you get any, Pikelet? 178 00:27:12,191 --> 00:27:14,275 Yes, I got one. I rolled on the inside. 179 00:27:14,441 --> 00:27:20,400 Then the Angelus gang came and drove us up to the ridge. By that reef. 180 00:27:20,566 --> 00:27:23,733 - So? Old Smoky. - Yes, there were big waves. 181 00:27:23,900 --> 00:27:27,275 Yes, there was someone who tried to surf out there. 182 00:27:27,441 --> 00:27:31,066 Yeah, who's that guy? Does anyone surf there? 183 00:27:31,233 --> 00:27:34,566 - It happens. - How do they get out there? 184 00:27:34,733 --> 00:27:39,983 - You don't reveal that, do you? - Okay, Old Smoky, there were big waves. 185 00:27:41,650 --> 00:27:45,316 It must have been a good 20 feet easy. 186 00:27:45,483 --> 00:27:49,858 It's a long, wild coast out there. Full of surprises. 187 00:27:58,608 --> 00:28:02,275 - Hey, Dad. - Hey, the guy. How is it? 188 00:28:10,233 --> 00:28:13,733 Yummy chops, Mom. 189 00:28:13,900 --> 00:28:16,650 You love chops. 190 00:28:20,483 --> 00:28:24,733 Try to protect your nose from the sun. You know the hat dad bought you? 191 00:28:24,900 --> 00:28:29,816 - The fishing hat? - Yes. It must be somewhere. 192 00:28:41,816 --> 00:28:44,316 Great day, mom. 193 00:28:54,858 --> 00:28:58,483 Once we were accepted, admitted - 194 00:28:58,650 --> 00:29:00,834 - if we weren't with Sando, so we just killed time. 195 00:29:00,858 --> 00:29:04,650 All the way up here. Waves throughout that area. 196 00:29:05,650 --> 00:29:10,191 - Have you been up there before? - Yes, several times down here. 197 00:29:10,358 --> 00:29:14,608 - Never that far north or west. - How do you get there? 198 00:29:19,941 --> 00:29:25,608 We didn't know it yet, but we had already dreamed us into another life. 199 00:29:43,441 --> 00:29:46,525 - See you, mate! - Yes, see you. 200 00:30:12,941 --> 00:30:16,441 Listen! Check this out. 201 00:30:18,400 --> 00:30:21,858 'Sanderson excels at perfect Rincon.' 202 00:30:27,775 --> 00:30:32,608 He's on the cover of this one too. Look at him. Motherfuckers. 203 00:30:36,691 --> 00:30:38,900 This is Morocco in 1968. 204 00:30:39,066 --> 00:30:41,900 This is Hawaii -71. 205 00:30:43,608 --> 00:30:46,983 - What's in here? - Yes, what else is there...? 206 00:30:49,566 --> 00:30:54,816 He's been everywhere. 'Hollister Ranch' - where is it? Look at him. 207 00:30:56,316 --> 00:31:00,900 We put them in order. - 73. 208 00:31:01,066 --> 00:31:03,941 - 71. 209 00:31:22,650 --> 00:31:25,816 Listen! Nice haircut, man. 210 00:31:27,525 --> 00:31:31,358 What are you doing? Where the hell did you find those? 211 00:31:31,525 --> 00:31:34,233 De bara låg där i kartongerna. 212 00:31:37,025 --> 00:31:41,025 Okay, it's calm. Collect them and stuff them down. 213 00:31:41,191 --> 00:31:46,400 I want you to stay here and wait on me. Stay here and wait. 214 00:31:46,566 --> 00:31:50,483 Eve. Do you know how those cartons ended up there? 215 00:31:52,275 --> 00:31:55,900 Listen! I'm talking to you. 216 00:31:56,066 --> 00:31:59,733 - What? - What the hell are you doing? 217 00:32:02,316 --> 00:32:05,858 Why do you keep them? 218 00:32:06,025 --> 00:32:09,691 Why do you keep them? if you hate them so much? 219 00:32:12,650 --> 00:32:15,608 Don't whine about me and my friends! 220 00:32:18,316 --> 00:32:22,150 All right, Billy. You spend time with children. 221 00:32:37,233 --> 00:32:41,983 - They get back together. We're going. - He told us to wait. 222 00:33:06,525 --> 00:33:09,983 - Can I play? - Stick. 223 00:33:48,150 --> 00:33:52,025 - We didn't want to make anyone angry. - It's just old rubbish. 224 00:33:52,191 --> 00:33:57,400 It's calm. Put up your bikes on the flatbed, and I'll drive you home. 225 00:34:25,358 --> 00:34:29,358 Yes, listen... There will be some waves the day after tomorrow. 226 00:34:29,525 --> 00:34:34,525 It will be a bit out, so get up early. In the early morning. 227 00:34:34,691 --> 00:34:38,316 I'll pick you up. We drive to a discreet location. Secret. 228 00:34:38,483 --> 00:34:41,816 Yes. I think you are ready. 229 00:34:49,691 --> 00:34:54,691 I was thinking of going out with the dinghy and fishing on Saturday, if you want to come along. 230 00:34:54,858 --> 00:34:59,691 I'm probably going to the beach with Loonie. 231 00:34:59,858 --> 00:35:03,066 So? Okay. 232 00:35:19,233 --> 00:35:22,275 May I leave the table? 233 00:35:44,733 --> 00:35:48,691 Where are we going? 234 00:35:48,858 --> 00:35:52,941 Let's just say that we have an encounter with the unknown. 235 00:36:25,650 --> 00:36:29,275 They are yours. 236 00:36:29,441 --> 00:36:31,775 Oh, damn it! Wet suits. 237 00:36:34,816 --> 00:36:38,358 - Check here. - Smell it. 238 00:36:38,525 --> 00:36:41,233 My God. 239 00:36:43,608 --> 00:36:46,650 Hello! Guide me right! 240 00:36:48,191 --> 00:36:50,316 Continue. It's good there. 241 00:36:51,733 --> 00:36:54,191 Pull up back there for me. 242 00:36:55,400 --> 00:36:58,108 Do it now. Fast. 243 00:37:39,025 --> 00:37:41,775 Where the hell are we? 244 00:37:41,941 --> 00:37:44,900 This is Barney's. 245 00:37:47,900 --> 00:37:50,566 Pull her in. 246 00:37:58,066 --> 00:38:01,733 - Why is the place called that? - Because Barney lives here. 247 00:38:01,900 --> 00:38:04,900 No more than right to tell you. 248 00:38:11,275 --> 00:38:13,733 Wow! 249 00:38:28,150 --> 00:38:30,150 - Do it. - Come on. 250 00:38:35,108 --> 00:38:38,441 - He that Barney then? - Yeah, Barney. 251 00:38:38,608 --> 00:38:41,650 He is not always hungry, which improves the odds. 252 00:38:41,816 --> 00:38:47,483 - Damn. Say it's not a shark. - Okay. It's not a shark. 253 00:38:47,650 --> 00:38:51,691 Or no ordinary shark, if you say so. 254 00:38:51,858 --> 00:38:55,191 I've been surfing here for years and still have all fingers and toes. 255 00:38:55,358 --> 00:38:59,816 - Have you seen him? - Yes, five, maybe six times. 256 00:38:59,983 --> 00:39:03,191 - What kind of shark is that? - No average. 257 00:39:03,358 --> 00:39:09,691 - Stop fooling around and say it, dammit. - A great white. The Great White Hunter. 258 00:39:09,858 --> 00:39:12,316 Damn, damn, damn. 259 00:39:12,483 --> 00:39:16,108 - How big is it? - 14 feet. Hard to say, Pikelet. 260 00:39:16,275 --> 00:39:20,066 He has a big head and grinning like Richard Nixon. 261 00:39:20,233 --> 00:39:26,233 - Why the hell did you bring us here? - I thought you had stake for it. 262 00:39:26,400 --> 00:39:30,191 You're not scared, are you, Loonie? 263 00:39:41,358 --> 00:39:44,816 He talks shit. He is lying to us. 264 00:39:44,983 --> 00:39:48,650 - Maybe. - He calls us fucking titters. 265 00:39:58,316 --> 00:40:04,025 He thinks we should just sit here like two fucking little girls. 266 00:40:04,191 --> 00:40:08,525 Damn. That's a damn good idea. 267 00:40:09,608 --> 00:40:11,775 Damn... Damn. Damn. 268 00:40:16,900 --> 00:40:19,941 Fuck that damn shark bastard! 269 00:40:29,900 --> 00:40:32,483 Come on! 270 00:40:35,816 --> 00:40:37,941 Come on! 271 00:40:50,733 --> 00:40:53,691 Honor to whom honor is due. 272 00:40:53,858 --> 00:40:57,483 You got the best wave of the day. It was a real highlight. 273 00:40:57,650 --> 00:41:01,233 I wish we had a camera. We should have taken a photo. 274 00:41:01,400 --> 00:41:04,650 - You don't need a photo. - Just to prove it. 275 00:41:04,816 --> 00:41:10,941 - You don't have to prove anything. - At least you guys saw it. 276 00:41:11,108 --> 00:41:15,358 It's not about us, it's about you. Your moment with the sea. 277 00:41:15,525 --> 00:41:20,900 - That's hippie drivel. - Well, really? 278 00:41:21,066 --> 00:41:25,941 Yes. Okay for you. You have many chances to prove what you have done. 279 00:41:26,108 --> 00:41:30,775 - Honolua Bay, dammit. Morocco. - All that is bullshit. It is unimportant. 280 00:41:30,941 --> 00:41:34,525 - Easy for you to say. - In the end, it's you and it. 281 00:41:34,691 --> 00:41:39,025 You're out there thinking: 'Do I know what I'm doing? Am I stable?' 282 00:41:39,191 --> 00:41:41,775 'Or am I just ordinary?' 283 00:41:41,941 --> 00:41:46,441 How does it feel? When it's that serious. 284 00:41:46,608 --> 00:41:50,691 You boys will find out. 285 00:41:50,858 --> 00:41:54,358 Like, I mean... 20 feet. 286 00:41:54,525 --> 00:41:58,483 I'll tell you one thing. You are happy that there is no damn photo. 287 00:41:58,650 --> 00:42:02,358 But when you're still alive and you stand there towards the end - 288 00:42:02,525 --> 00:42:08,066 - and you've just made it, it's not like that... you can't... 289 00:42:08,233 --> 00:42:13,983 You live to the fullest, are whole in his body. You only get a kick. 290 00:42:15,191 --> 00:42:21,650 It is as if you felt the hand of God. The rest is just sport and pastime. 291 00:42:54,775 --> 00:42:57,775 Can I have the flippers, please? 292 00:43:32,150 --> 00:43:37,441 The waves that we are after will come before the storm. Clean and powerful. 293 00:43:40,108 --> 00:43:44,066 Here is Old Smoky. It is about 800 meters from the coast. 294 00:43:44,233 --> 00:43:48,233 Here is the continental shelf. So when the wave hits here - 295 00:43:48,400 --> 00:43:52,400 - the water surges up the bank and is turned inside out. 296 00:43:52,566 --> 00:43:57,608 It's not so much height and size, without the volume and circumference. 297 00:43:57,775 --> 00:44:01,483 That's where the power lies. We paddle out and wait in the channel. 298 00:44:01,650 --> 00:44:06,191 We check our position here, the limestone streak, the tree line - 299 00:44:06,358 --> 00:44:09,066 - and find the perfect starting point. 300 00:44:10,441 --> 00:44:15,691 It's actually simple. You choose the right wave and you are halfway to the goal. 301 00:44:15,858 --> 00:44:19,691 But if you start too far out over the reef - 302 00:44:19,858 --> 00:44:23,983 - then you get more problems than the first settlers. 303 00:44:27,108 --> 00:44:29,566 It's not about what you have here. 304 00:44:29,733 --> 00:44:33,066 It has nothing to do with it with the thoughts in his head. 305 00:44:33,233 --> 00:44:37,775 It's about the work you've done. That and the surrender. 306 00:44:37,941 --> 00:44:42,775 Surrender is what sets you free to being able to be completely in the moment. 307 00:44:42,941 --> 00:44:46,150 To hang you with your body and your soul. 308 00:44:46,316 --> 00:44:51,275 With absolute certainty. Without the slightest doubt. 309 00:44:51,441 --> 00:44:53,566 The slightest doubt... 310 00:45:08,733 --> 00:45:13,691 Hi, Rooster. Hello. Where are they? 311 00:45:13,858 --> 00:45:19,983 what are you doing Where is everyone? 312 00:45:47,858 --> 00:45:51,608 - What do you want? - Sorry, I thought.. 313 00:45:51,775 --> 00:45:56,483 I thought I heard something and just came up to check. 314 00:45:56,650 --> 00:46:00,733 You missed him. He pulled off somewhere to paddle. 315 00:46:00,900 --> 00:46:04,775 - It's just a sea breeze anyway. - Yes. 316 00:46:06,233 --> 00:46:09,316 What have you done with the knee? 317 00:46:12,150 --> 00:46:14,566 A skiing accident. 318 00:46:15,691 --> 00:46:19,900 - Do you ski? - No, I've never seen snow. 319 00:46:21,316 --> 00:46:25,733 Yes, you... White and cold. 320 00:46:28,858 --> 00:46:33,150 - How long does it take to heal? - How long is a rope? 321 00:46:33,316 --> 00:46:35,400 Which line? 322 00:46:37,441 --> 00:46:39,983 Shit the same. 323 00:46:41,066 --> 00:46:44,775 Yes. Sorry. 324 00:46:45,816 --> 00:46:47,650 See you. 325 00:46:57,025 --> 00:47:00,983 Old Smoky is here somewhere. Throw it away. 326 00:47:03,816 --> 00:47:05,816 It's deep. 327 00:47:05,983 --> 00:47:09,983 It doesn't seem as deep at the top of a ten-footer. 328 00:47:14,233 --> 00:47:17,150 Shall we take a look? 329 00:47:20,733 --> 00:47:23,733 Wait. Loonie, wait! 330 00:48:28,191 --> 00:48:31,316 - Do you like chili? - No. 331 00:48:32,941 --> 00:48:35,650 You will learn to do that. 332 00:48:36,691 --> 00:48:39,233 This is new. 333 00:48:41,358 --> 00:48:44,650 That, Pikelet, is my wife. 334 00:48:44,816 --> 00:48:48,733 You're messing with me. Awesome. 335 00:48:48,900 --> 00:48:53,025 - You can safely say that, huh? - How does she do it? 336 00:48:53,191 --> 00:48:55,358 Long descent and jump from a ramp. 337 00:48:55,525 --> 00:48:59,441 She just flies through the air while she does a somersault. 338 00:48:59,608 --> 00:49:03,025 And lands on his feet. 339 00:49:03,191 --> 00:49:06,525 - That's the plan anyway. - Jeez. 340 00:49:06,691 --> 00:49:10,775 Yeah, she's... She's pretty well known. 341 00:49:10,941 --> 00:49:13,525 And it's in Utah -71. 342 00:49:13,691 --> 00:49:18,566 And she hasn't been able to go now in three... maybe... four... More. 343 00:49:21,900 --> 00:49:25,275 - She's there right now. - And go skiing? 344 00:49:25,441 --> 00:49:30,858 No, not with that knee. She... They are trying another operation. 345 00:49:32,733 --> 00:49:36,775 - Will they fix it? - That is the hope. 346 00:49:38,691 --> 00:49:41,858 How does she look here? There is no snow. 347 00:49:43,983 --> 00:49:47,566 I think she prefers it. 348 00:49:47,733 --> 00:49:51,941 If you couldn't surf, you would Can't stand living right by the sea? 349 00:49:52,108 --> 00:49:56,191 The sea is beautiful. That would have been enough for me. 350 00:49:56,358 --> 00:50:00,650 - Bullshit. - Yes, actually. Just to see it. 351 00:50:00,816 --> 00:50:04,525 Yeah... I'd rather be dead. 352 00:50:29,775 --> 00:50:32,358 Leave the chicken wire for me. 353 00:51:00,691 --> 00:51:04,525 - They're okay. - I don't want them here. 354 00:51:04,691 --> 00:51:08,650 Lord Jesus. Billy, grow up. 355 00:51:16,900 --> 00:51:20,108 Hi, Rooster. Here you have. 356 00:51:20,275 --> 00:51:25,400 You boys can take and knit now. 357 00:51:25,566 --> 00:51:28,858 Keep your eyes open. There's something going on down south. 358 00:51:29,025 --> 00:51:32,650 - It could be good for Old Smoky. - Really? 359 00:51:35,733 --> 00:51:38,358 Welcome home, Eva. 360 00:51:42,108 --> 00:51:44,650 We cycle to your home. 361 00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:51,608 Never that I let my wife decide. Never! 362 00:51:51,775 --> 00:51:54,858 He swallows so much crap from her. 363 00:51:57,900 --> 00:52:02,691 I think your mom made scones. I love your mother. 364 00:52:04,608 --> 00:52:08,150 The only thing there was to do was to wait. 365 00:52:10,066 --> 00:52:14,900 Then we got the message. Old Smoky would be gone. 366 00:52:15,066 --> 00:52:18,441 Unfortunately for Loonie so he had two before - 367 00:52:18,608 --> 00:52:24,483 - tripped on the stairs in the pub. Probably with a little help from his dad. 368 00:53:02,316 --> 00:53:05,108 That's him. 369 00:53:07,733 --> 00:53:10,691 Come, let's go. 370 00:53:10,858 --> 00:53:14,066 Are you kidding? 371 00:53:32,525 --> 00:53:34,441 What does he do? 372 00:53:34,608 --> 00:53:39,983 - Loonies. - Doesn't he want to watch? - I don't think so. 373 00:53:42,483 --> 00:53:47,191 - Come and check on your friend. - Sabba your secret hippie experience? 374 00:53:47,358 --> 00:53:50,150 - Watch and learn. - I'd be happy to do that. 375 00:53:50,316 --> 00:53:54,358 - Show some support. - Why? He is a coward. 376 00:53:54,525 --> 00:53:57,233 - You are a coward. - Don't be nasty. 377 00:53:57,400 --> 00:54:00,025 Go to hell, coach! 378 00:54:22,566 --> 00:54:26,108 You will definitely be wet this morning. 379 00:55:46,733 --> 00:55:50,025 It feels strange in here, but around the cape it becomes clean. 380 00:55:50,191 --> 00:55:55,983 Getting out is the easy part. On the way in, you have to concentrate. 381 00:55:56,150 --> 00:55:59,025 You have to be patient, okay? 382 00:56:13,275 --> 00:56:16,066 You're glad you're alive, huh? 383 00:56:18,566 --> 00:56:22,400 I wonder what ordinary people do today. 384 00:57:16,441 --> 00:57:19,983 - What are you doing? - You surf on the Brewer. 385 00:57:20,150 --> 00:57:25,441 Just take it before I regret it. Now check how I do it. 386 00:57:25,608 --> 00:57:28,191 Then you do the same. 387 00:58:09,358 --> 00:58:13,816 You have to get into something like that. You know what applies. 388 00:58:13,983 --> 00:58:16,941 Otherwise, you will never forgive yourself. 389 00:58:30,358 --> 00:58:34,066 The pikelet? The pikelet! 390 00:58:35,108 --> 00:58:39,733 The pikelet! Go out wide! In the channel! 391 00:58:39,900 --> 00:58:45,275 Deep water. That's for sure. Come on, buddy! 392 00:58:54,525 --> 00:58:57,233 We do something else. 393 00:59:00,816 --> 00:59:05,483 look at me We do something else, okay? 394 00:59:09,025 --> 00:59:14,483 We're going to play a little game. We'll see who can touch the bottom first. 395 00:59:14,650 --> 00:59:17,650 Prepared? One, two, three. 396 01:00:01,191 --> 01:00:06,066 You're right here, Pikelet. You're right here right now, okay? 397 01:00:06,233 --> 01:00:10,400 You just panicked, that's all. It happens to all of us. 398 01:00:10,566 --> 01:00:15,441 You can handle this, okay? Okay? Now we do. 399 01:00:15,608 --> 01:00:18,983 - Yes. - We'll try once. 400 01:00:19,150 --> 01:00:21,066 Come again. 401 01:00:21,233 --> 01:00:26,483 Okay. You should release the first one. Let it take some water with it. 402 01:00:26,650 --> 01:00:32,608 The other has your name on it. Paddle out to it, turn and launch. 403 01:00:34,441 --> 01:00:39,691 Without the slightest doubt. Do you understand what I'm saying? 404 01:00:43,566 --> 01:00:46,150 Now we drive. 405 01:00:58,400 --> 01:01:01,108 Go, Pikelet. 406 01:01:01,275 --> 01:01:03,691 Run, Pikelet! 407 01:01:25,233 --> 01:01:27,983 The pikelet! 408 01:01:55,775 --> 01:01:59,233 Yes, mate. Good job! Good work. 409 01:01:59,400 --> 01:02:01,566 The next one will be fun, okay? 410 01:02:01,733 --> 01:02:04,233 Hold back when turning, brake... 411 01:03:11,025 --> 01:03:15,441 - How big? - Big enough to cut the miracle boy. 412 01:03:15,608 --> 01:03:21,191 - How big...'miracle boy'? - I don't know. 413 01:03:21,358 --> 01:03:25,316 - Ten? Fifteen? - Yes. Ten, maybe. 414 01:03:25,483 --> 01:03:28,816 Yes, he surfed one in around ten. Stable. 415 01:03:28,983 --> 01:03:32,816 - So he got waves? - Yes, yes, he was good. 416 01:03:32,983 --> 01:03:37,900 - I went on the worst overtaking. - But you did the job. 417 01:03:38,066 --> 01:03:41,191 He wrote some history. 418 01:03:46,983 --> 01:03:51,025 He would never be first or youngest at Old Smoky - 419 01:03:51,191 --> 01:03:55,775 - but he saw what he had to do and finally got the chance in the winter. 420 01:04:08,608 --> 01:04:14,066 Whatever we did that day or someone day, then Loonie made it harder. 421 01:04:19,441 --> 01:04:23,608 He started later and deeper than any of us. 422 01:04:23,775 --> 01:04:28,275 He not only took on Old Smoky, he took it over. 423 01:04:29,650 --> 01:04:33,525 He surfed like one who did not believe in death. 424 01:04:37,566 --> 01:04:39,858 You nailed it, Loonie! 425 01:04:40,025 --> 01:04:43,066 - Awesome! - You owned it, mate. 426 01:04:45,525 --> 01:04:48,358 - That's how it should look. - Yeah, damn it. 427 01:05:24,983 --> 01:05:28,608 Hey, hey! No, wait on the bus! 428 01:05:52,191 --> 01:05:54,650 The truck driver is stuck! 429 01:06:13,400 --> 01:06:15,441 Unlock! Unlock! 430 01:06:20,900 --> 01:06:23,816 Unlock! 431 01:06:55,608 --> 01:07:00,150 Half a mile from land, a reef by a granite island, a seal colony - 432 01:07:00,316 --> 01:07:04,358 - with a hell of a lot of waves which become very angular. 433 01:07:04,525 --> 01:07:10,400 You go out of the whaling bay. I've been to the place a couple of times. 434 01:07:10,566 --> 01:07:14,108 - But you haven't surfed there? - You don't know when to stop. 435 01:07:14,275 --> 01:07:17,900 Well, I think you know when you should stop, but you don't. 436 01:07:18,066 --> 01:07:21,983 - No, I haven't surfed there yet. - It's a wave inside a wave. 437 01:07:22,150 --> 01:07:26,441 - Nautilus. - The reef is just below the surface. 438 01:07:26,608 --> 01:07:32,775 At low tide it lies above the surface. It can only be surfed from medium to high. 439 01:07:32,941 --> 01:07:37,816 - The next frontier. - Do you think it is possible? Honestly? 440 01:07:37,983 --> 01:07:41,483 Honestly, Pikelet? It makes me sick just looking at it. 441 01:07:41,650 --> 01:07:44,733 - Are you scared? - I'm scared. 442 01:07:44,900 --> 01:07:49,108 Yes... fear is completely natural. It's nothing to be ashamed of. 443 01:07:49,275 --> 01:07:53,483 - If you say so. - People confront fear every day. 444 01:07:53,650 --> 01:07:58,150 They bargain with God. They make a decision and gives a fuck about it - 445 01:07:58,316 --> 01:08:03,400 - and then they are already halfway there. Dare to try - typical for us men. 446 01:08:03,566 --> 01:08:08,108 - You probably meant 'us humans'. - Yes, thank you. 447 01:08:12,858 --> 01:08:18,150 We can always go back to surfing at the headland when it's two feet and sunny. 448 01:08:22,400 --> 01:08:25,733 Simple as hell! 449 01:08:26,900 --> 01:08:31,108 - You're a zero, Loonie. - I didn't say I was scared. 450 01:08:31,275 --> 01:08:35,816 - He said he was scared. - Zero! Zero! 451 01:08:45,691 --> 01:08:50,775 We began our research of Nautilus. 'Homework', Sando called it. 452 01:08:52,108 --> 01:08:57,566 But nothing happened that winter. And without waves we got bored… 453 01:08:57,733 --> 01:09:00,816 and restless. 454 01:09:07,608 --> 01:09:09,233 See you. 455 01:09:30,275 --> 01:09:35,150 Bruce Pike, you are moody, selfish and very inattentive. 456 01:09:36,150 --> 01:09:40,275 Therefore, I hereby notify you att du framgent - 457 01:09:40,441 --> 01:09:45,483 - is released from all further duties like my boyfriend. Queenie Cookson. 458 01:09:54,941 --> 01:09:58,733 If Ahab gets what he wants won't I or anyone - 459 01:09:58,900 --> 01:10:01,233 - in this crew to revisit their homes... 460 01:10:01,400 --> 01:10:07,733 I heard Loonie dropped out of school. Dad said he works at the factory. 461 01:10:07,900 --> 01:10:12,525 - He's not that big. - I'm not afraid of Moby Dick. 462 01:10:12,691 --> 01:10:15,900 - I fear God's wrath. - Wrath of God? 463 01:10:17,650 --> 01:10:20,608 It is our life's work to kill whales - 464 01:10:20,775 --> 01:10:24,608 - and take care of their oil to the lights of the world. 465 01:10:29,525 --> 01:10:34,525 A monster storm came and appeared like a tumor in the sea on the weather map. 466 01:10:34,691 --> 01:10:40,108 Sando was fire and flames and solid decided that we would surf it now. 467 01:11:27,275 --> 01:11:32,941 - When you start, drive early and wide. - I don't know if I feel it. 468 01:11:33,108 --> 01:11:36,733 - You know what applies. - I'll probably just have a look. 469 01:11:36,900 --> 01:11:42,108 I didn't bring you out here to watch. Just wait! 470 01:11:42,275 --> 01:11:44,941 No, damn it. I stick. 471 01:11:45,108 --> 01:11:50,191 I thought I brought surfers, men beyond the ordinary. 472 01:11:59,316 --> 01:12:02,066 I told you to wait! 473 01:13:41,358 --> 01:13:44,983 You have to taste some of that! 474 01:14:45,441 --> 01:14:47,566 Hi... 475 01:15:18,983 --> 01:15:21,858 Hey, Rooster, the guy. Hello. 476 01:15:26,525 --> 01:15:28,691 Come here. 477 01:15:32,316 --> 01:15:34,566 Go ahead. 478 01:16:01,441 --> 01:16:06,066 - Why are you sneaking around here? - I only came to see Sando. 479 01:16:06,233 --> 01:16:09,316 - Huh? - I only came to see Sando. 480 01:16:09,483 --> 01:16:14,483 - Was that you the other night? - Huh? No. 481 01:16:15,608 --> 01:16:20,483 Shit the same. can you help me with this stuff, please? 482 01:16:20,650 --> 01:16:26,233 Can you help me with these the damn stuff, please? Damn rain. 483 01:16:38,525 --> 01:16:41,608 Do you want coffee? 484 01:16:46,566 --> 01:16:50,650 I can do it. I make the coffee. You can sit down. 485 01:16:50,816 --> 01:16:53,483 Thanks. 486 01:17:05,775 --> 01:17:08,691 How's your knee? 487 01:17:14,150 --> 01:17:18,941 Here we are now, Pikelet. All alone. 488 01:17:19,108 --> 01:17:20,900 What do you mean? 489 01:17:21,066 --> 01:17:24,733 - Did he say anything to you either? - Told me what? 490 01:17:27,191 --> 01:17:31,191 He has stung. Indonesia I would guess. 491 01:17:31,358 --> 01:17:34,400 He brought your little friend with him. 492 01:17:34,566 --> 01:17:38,441 - Huh? - Brought Loonie to goddamn Indonesia. 493 01:17:39,816 --> 01:17:42,483 You are the lone musketeer. 494 01:17:48,066 --> 01:17:52,608 You couldn't have followed anyway. You have school and stuff. 495 01:17:52,775 --> 01:17:55,650 Rude. 496 01:17:55,816 --> 01:18:00,941 Guru drivel and rudeness pretty much go hand in hand. 497 01:18:31,775 --> 01:18:34,900 Do you want coffee? 498 01:18:35,066 --> 01:18:37,983 I don't even drink coffee. 499 01:18:38,150 --> 01:18:43,108 Come in and get dry. You're catching a cold out there. 500 01:18:43,275 --> 01:18:46,358 I'll take a towel and a dry shirt for you. 501 01:19:07,816 --> 01:19:09,983 Thanks. 502 01:19:12,483 --> 01:19:15,233 - I can do it. - It's calm. 503 01:20:02,066 --> 01:20:05,025 Hold me. 504 01:21:25,025 --> 01:21:27,858 Be nice to me, okay, Pikelet? 505 01:21:28,941 --> 01:21:31,275 I promise. 506 01:21:32,400 --> 01:21:35,233 Don't brag about me. 507 01:21:37,275 --> 01:21:39,983 Not for Loonie, not for anyone. 508 01:21:40,150 --> 01:21:44,025 Okay. I won't do that. 509 01:21:58,275 --> 01:22:00,608 No. 510 01:23:15,441 --> 01:23:18,441 I received a postcard from Thailand. 511 01:23:19,650 --> 01:23:22,900 There are waves in Thailand. 512 01:23:23,066 --> 01:23:26,608 - He has been in Bangkok. - Aren't they in Java? 513 01:23:26,775 --> 01:23:30,400 It was something about supplies. Who knows? 514 01:23:30,566 --> 01:23:34,608 Now he talks about the islands in the east. 515 01:23:40,816 --> 01:23:43,691 Why did you let him go? 516 01:23:46,233 --> 01:23:48,858 He needs it. 517 01:23:51,150 --> 01:23:54,191 What you need then? 518 01:23:57,441 --> 01:23:59,858 He knows what I need. 519 01:24:02,983 --> 01:24:06,608 It's getting cold. You should knit. 520 01:24:06,775 --> 01:24:09,400 I can make a fire. 521 01:24:22,900 --> 01:24:26,191 God, you really are getting shadier. 522 01:24:26,358 --> 01:24:31,316 - What has happened? - Nothing. Not much. 523 01:24:31,483 --> 01:24:37,316 - It's as if you went up in smoke. - I just have a lot going on. 524 01:24:37,483 --> 01:24:40,733 A lot or not a lot? Which is it? 525 01:24:47,358 --> 01:24:51,566 I still want to that you come to the party with me, okay? 526 01:24:51,733 --> 01:24:54,191 Do you do it? 527 01:25:20,691 --> 01:25:25,191 The last moments in the air… 528 01:25:25,358 --> 01:25:28,816 was my life last happy moments. 529 01:25:32,983 --> 01:25:36,066 I miss being scared. 530 01:25:36,233 --> 01:25:39,900 Maybe it will be better this time. 531 01:25:55,775 --> 01:25:58,525 i love you 532 01:26:02,483 --> 01:26:05,191 You love to fuck. 533 01:26:07,358 --> 01:26:10,108 No. I mean it. 534 01:26:15,233 --> 01:26:18,108 You don't know what you mean. 535 01:26:19,983 --> 01:26:24,358 Don't say crap you don't understand. Just don't do it. 536 01:26:35,400 --> 01:26:39,316 Then so. I'll pick you up at half past twelve. 537 01:26:49,941 --> 01:26:52,650 Thanks, Dad. 538 01:27:50,233 --> 01:27:53,316 I can't. 539 01:27:53,483 --> 01:27:55,775 It's nothing. 540 01:27:57,441 --> 01:27:59,358 If you say so. 541 01:28:45,941 --> 01:28:48,691 Do you want to play a game? 542 01:29:03,108 --> 01:29:07,316 - I don't understand. - I'll show you. 543 01:29:08,400 --> 01:29:13,316 - If I don't want to? - Then I will be disappointed, I suppose. 544 01:29:15,691 --> 01:29:18,650 Okay. show me 545 01:29:18,816 --> 01:29:20,983 You can hyperventilate, right? 546 01:29:23,566 --> 01:29:28,025 - It's pretty much like that. - Do you suffocate yourself? 547 01:29:28,191 --> 01:29:31,858 - Kind of, yeah. - Damn it. Why? 548 01:29:32,983 --> 01:29:37,358 Because it makes me come like a freight train, little man. 549 01:29:39,066 --> 01:29:45,233 What then? Do you want me too? to suffocate myself? 550 01:29:45,400 --> 01:29:47,941 No, of course not. 551 01:29:50,191 --> 01:29:53,108 I just want you to watch. 552 01:29:55,858 --> 01:29:58,441 Jeez, I don't know. 553 01:30:05,358 --> 01:30:08,983 It feels better. I can't explain. 554 01:30:09,150 --> 01:30:12,900 And it's safer. Like having a diving buddy. 555 01:30:15,108 --> 01:30:19,108 - I don't want you to get hurt. - I don't. 556 01:30:19,275 --> 01:30:22,150 Not unless you let me. 557 01:30:29,650 --> 01:30:32,483 i love you 558 01:30:32,650 --> 01:30:35,983 We'll see. 559 01:31:28,441 --> 01:31:32,733 Pikelet, it's okay, I'm fine. 560 01:31:32,900 --> 01:31:35,816 look at me I feel fine. 561 01:31:51,566 --> 01:31:55,358 Being scared is half the fun. 562 01:31:55,525 --> 01:31:58,400 You should know that by now. 563 01:32:06,983 --> 01:32:09,525 Does Sando do that with you? 564 01:32:10,900 --> 01:32:14,233 I don't need to answer that. 565 01:32:25,483 --> 01:32:29,358 I don't like it. 566 01:32:29,525 --> 01:32:32,025 I understand you, Pikelet. 567 01:32:33,191 --> 01:32:36,025 You are different. 568 01:32:36,191 --> 01:32:41,691 You have a certain mine. As if you expect to lose something. 569 01:32:43,108 --> 01:32:45,941 And you are right. 570 01:32:47,066 --> 01:32:50,150 You are right to expect that it should be suppressed. 571 01:32:51,233 --> 01:32:53,983 Because it can be. 572 01:33:08,191 --> 01:33:11,066 I don't know. It doesn't feel right. 573 01:33:12,900 --> 01:33:17,108 I just don't think you should ask me to do certain things. 574 01:33:18,358 --> 01:33:21,358 Yes. I am here. 575 01:34:48,816 --> 01:34:51,066 Are you pregnant? 576 01:34:58,816 --> 01:35:01,650 go home The fun is over. 577 01:35:17,608 --> 01:35:20,900 - Is it mine? - Don't be ridiculous. 578 01:35:35,775 --> 01:35:38,316 Well... I can... 579 01:35:38,483 --> 01:35:41,525 Do you want me to chop some wood? 580 01:35:41,691 --> 01:35:45,275 No, I don't want that. Just go. 581 01:39:41,066 --> 01:39:43,275 Hello. How is it? 582 01:39:43,441 --> 01:39:47,441 - When did you get home? - Last night. 583 01:39:50,275 --> 01:39:54,608 - How was it over there then? - Totally fucking unbelievable. 584 01:39:54,775 --> 01:40:00,316 Everything happened to us. We were shelled, driven away, bitten by spiders, expelled. 585 01:40:00,483 --> 01:40:03,816 And terrible waves. I got this. 586 01:40:03,983 --> 01:40:07,941 - What happened? - Uh, just torn. 587 01:40:08,108 --> 01:40:11,858 Uluwatu. It's... It's crazy. 588 01:40:12,025 --> 01:40:16,983 You would have loved it. Big, soft, green walls that roll on for several days. 589 01:40:17,150 --> 01:40:19,358 - Yes. - Wow. 590 01:40:19,525 --> 01:40:23,275 It was awesome. You really missed something. 591 01:40:23,441 --> 01:40:26,441 I brought you something. Here. 592 01:40:26,608 --> 01:40:30,483 - What is it? - Close your eyes. Hold out your hand. 593 01:40:31,608 --> 01:40:36,191 - Don't look. Just smell it. - It smells like shit! 594 01:40:36,358 --> 01:40:40,191 I had to smuggle it in. It's hash. 595 01:40:40,358 --> 01:40:42,816 I had it in my ass. Johnny Cash. 596 01:40:42,983 --> 01:40:46,441 Put it in your pocket. You'll thank me later. 597 01:40:49,483 --> 01:40:54,816 You look tall and beefy, Pikelet. Male. I like it. 598 01:40:54,983 --> 01:40:58,566 But I heard you stuck out Old Smoky and dropped his Brewer. 599 01:40:58,733 --> 01:41:02,150 - Yes. - He'll be mad about it. 600 01:41:02,316 --> 01:41:05,483 He can get angry about something else too. 601 01:41:07,191 --> 01:41:11,358 - What are you talking about? - Uh, nothing. Just gossip. 602 01:41:11,525 --> 01:41:14,525 Nasty gossip. The father, you know? 603 01:41:14,691 --> 01:41:18,900 - Nautilus will be mined this weekend. - So? 604 01:41:19,066 --> 01:41:24,066 Sunday morning, Sando thinks. He said he wanted to talk to you. 605 01:41:24,233 --> 01:41:28,691 - I haven't seen him. - He's scared shitless of Nautilus. 606 01:41:28,858 --> 01:41:34,233 - He's getting old, but... - Hello, Ivan. Home again, I see. 607 01:41:34,400 --> 01:41:37,650 Yes, at home in little old Sawyer. 608 01:41:48,733 --> 01:41:52,525 See you on Sunday. In the early morning. 609 01:41:52,691 --> 01:41:55,358 Sando will talk to you. 610 01:42:49,941 --> 01:42:54,191 - How have you been? - Yeah, good. 611 01:42:54,358 --> 01:42:59,441 You chopped a lot of wood outside my place, The pikelet. A hell of a lot. 612 01:42:59,608 --> 01:43:05,733 Don't think I don't see that. Eva was happy for the company, she said. 613 01:43:05,900 --> 01:43:09,816 - So? - I got the board back. The brewer. 614 01:43:09,983 --> 01:43:13,941 - Really? - A tuna fisherman found it 2.5 miles out. 615 01:43:14,108 --> 01:43:17,941 - Yes. Sorry about that. - You shouldn't be sad. 616 01:43:18,108 --> 01:43:21,816 You took on Old Smoky yourself. I tip my hat. 617 01:43:21,983 --> 01:43:26,275 It is strongly done. As I see it then you deserved the board. 618 01:43:26,441 --> 01:43:29,566 - It's yours, mate. - Thanks, but... 619 01:43:29,733 --> 01:43:32,233 No, no, it's yours. Okay? 620 01:43:34,566 --> 01:43:38,025 - Thank you. - By all means. 621 01:43:38,191 --> 01:43:44,066 Your buddy Loonie... Jeez. Yes, you know how he is. 622 01:43:44,233 --> 01:43:47,483 Long history. Cannot be trusted. 623 01:43:47,650 --> 01:43:51,566 Stubborn little bastard. He's actually fucking crazy. 624 01:43:54,483 --> 01:43:59,691 - You know what else? - What? 625 01:44:01,441 --> 01:44:05,483 I think you know what I mean. 626 01:44:05,650 --> 01:44:08,650 No. 627 01:44:10,608 --> 01:44:13,400 I'm going to be a father. 628 01:44:14,400 --> 01:44:18,108 - Yes, I thought you looked different. - Did you? 629 01:44:20,733 --> 01:44:25,191 - Are you going to congratulate me or what? - Yes, of course. Congratulations. 630 01:44:25,358 --> 01:44:31,483 Thanks. Well, listen, it's coming in a front from the south. 631 01:44:31,650 --> 01:44:35,858 The swell should break at Nautilus on Sunday morning. Nice, clean waves. 632 01:44:36,025 --> 01:44:41,150 Perfect angle. You will want to stand out there with the Brewer underfoot. 633 01:44:41,316 --> 01:44:43,400 - Yes. Okay. - Okay. 634 01:44:43,566 --> 01:44:47,650 Okay, buddy. Then I'll pick you up on Sunday at dawn. 635 01:45:43,150 --> 01:45:46,191 So, yeah… 636 01:45:46,358 --> 01:45:49,400 Yes, so what? 637 01:45:49,566 --> 01:45:53,191 - I'm not coming along. - Damn it. 638 01:45:53,358 --> 01:45:57,816 - Are you kidding? - No. It's nothing for me. 639 01:45:59,191 --> 01:46:05,025 - It's an ugly wave. I don't like it. - Bullshit. Jump in. 640 01:46:06,275 --> 01:46:09,025 Jump in. 641 01:46:15,525 --> 01:46:19,608 That doesn't make me ordinary. Or to a coward. 642 01:46:20,650 --> 01:46:23,483 It's just not for me. 643 01:46:29,191 --> 01:46:33,483 Okay, sure. You might will take your board off the flatbed. 644 01:46:33,650 --> 01:46:39,441 - No, it's not even my board. - You earned that board, it's yours. 645 01:46:39,608 --> 01:46:43,858 Now take your damn board off the flatbed. 646 01:46:50,816 --> 01:46:53,483 Pikelet, come here! 647 01:47:03,900 --> 01:47:08,108 You have your own thing, Pikelet. Don't swamp it, okay? 648 01:47:10,150 --> 01:47:11,900 Stick now. 649 01:47:55,191 --> 01:47:57,691 - Thank you. - Go ahead. 650 01:47:57,858 --> 01:48:02,233 Fear lives in all of us. I know it now. 651 01:48:02,400 --> 01:48:06,150 It's how you live with it that make you who you are. 652 01:48:10,525 --> 01:48:16,358 Many years later when I was told about the Loonie, I wasn't surprised. 653 01:48:16,525 --> 01:48:19,483 But it hit me... hard. 654 01:48:21,191 --> 01:48:24,275 A single shot to the neck. 655 01:48:24,441 --> 01:48:27,441 Some kind of drug deal gone bad. 656 01:48:30,191 --> 01:48:35,525 He lived completely recklessly, because he thought he didn't matter. 657 01:48:41,358 --> 01:48:44,775 But he meant something to me. 658 01:48:48,316 --> 01:48:51,066 I miss the crazy bastard. 659 01:49:01,733 --> 01:49:04,608 I still paddle out when i can. 660 01:49:04,775 --> 01:49:09,233 Not to prove anything. Just... to feel it. 661 01:49:09,400 --> 01:49:13,941 The glorious speed, the torque underfoot. 662 01:49:15,150 --> 01:49:18,650 And during the short ones, rare ethereal moments… 663 01:49:21,066 --> 01:49:23,650 i dance 664 01:50:06,691 --> 01:50:10,066 Text: Thomas Jansson One liners