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The logical thing,
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the sane thing,is to stay on shore.
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But they paddle out.
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Now,it's easy to understand
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the fun side of surfing.
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Grown men and women frolickingin the gentle waves of summer.
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But then,there are the others.
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What are we to make of it?
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In the face of an unfeeling,
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unthinking, uncaring force,
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they choose to putthemselves in harm's way.
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It's easyto dismiss them as crazy,
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mindless daredevilswithout a cause.
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But yet we are transfixed.
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Why are we drawn to it,
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when we can't see the meaningamid the maelstrom?
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Why are we thrilled to
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a dance surroundedby violence?
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Everyone has dreams.
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Everyone isafraid of the dreams
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and a lot of peopleare not able
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to achieve their dreams
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because of feargets in the middle of it.
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Facing fear in the eyes,
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and reallyovercoming that fear...
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The big challengesare always scary.
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But the bigger the challenge,
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the moreit's going to help you togrow.
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Whatever walk of lifeyou are from,
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you have your challengesand your big waves to surf.
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Everyone has that fearthat that's holding themback,
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and you have toface that fear.
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If fearheld us back,
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would there bea landing on the moon?
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Would there be miraculouslife-saving vaccines?
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Would we have tamed fire?
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And would we discoverthe unimaginable
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but inevitable next?
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The answer is...
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They don't stay on land.
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They paddle out.
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Maybe the way to understand,
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to make paddling out part ofall our lives,
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is to follow as a half dozen
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of the best big wave surfersin the world
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live their lives
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through a big wave winteraround the globe.
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It's the seasonwhen the North Pacific
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and the North Atlantic
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pump out massive wavesgenerated by massive storms.
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Perhaps the answer,the inspiration
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and maybe even the meaning
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will reveal itself.
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We start off our journeyin Nazare, Portugal,
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an ancient fishing village
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that has emergedas the epicenter of
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big wave surfingin the last 10 years.
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It's rooted in an age oldseafaring country
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where explorationand leaving the shore
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are part of the national DNA.
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That sailing,that ocean culture
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of the early explorationsof Portugal
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is really reflecting back,
here in Nazare,
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you know, like a man at sea.
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You know, a more evolved,more technological...
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We're exploring the worldthrough the waves,
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and we are raising
the flag of Portugal
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through our wave surfing,you know.
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For Nic Von Rupp,
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he discoveredhis passion for big waves
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while competingin small ones.
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Winning contestswasn't enough of a reward
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as he battledon the pro circuit.
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He thirstedfor a bigger challenge.
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Literally.
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Like, I was being successful,
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my sponsors were backing me,
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like, financially was the best
year of my life and...
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But it was really like,
I was like,
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"Yeah, I want to be happy,"
you know, like,
81
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I want to do what
I want to do.
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And that was it.
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I told my sponsors. I'm like,
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"Guys, I'm gonna focus
on big wave surfing."
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Despite successin competition,
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knowing better big waves
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were breaking elsewhere,was too much for him.
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He gave up one possiblecareer, but found anotherone,
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in life threatening,but uniquelyrewarding big surf.
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Carrying onthe Portuguese tradition
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of taking on the sea.
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Nazare embodies,the essence of this history.
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Where legend has it,
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a hunter was savedon a cliff's edge by a saint,
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infusing the seaside town,with a deep religiousoverlay,
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including a church,
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originally foundedin the 14th century.
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In more recent times,
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the fishing village was known
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for tragic widowsand special dresses
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telling the story oflost husbands at sea.
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But the same wave that
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caused tragedyfor the fisherman,
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is the sirenfor today's pilgrims.
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The surfing story of Nazare,
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starts with one man,
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a strugglingHawaiian big wave surfer,
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Garrett McNamara,
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who stumbled on Nazareback in 2012.
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We really neededsomeone experienced.
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Uh, like Garrett, you know,
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at the time,
he must have been 40 already,
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like, had tons of experience
coming from Hawaii.
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Hawaii, was, and isthe epicenter
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when it comes downto technologies
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of big wave surfingand knowledge,
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and safety,and so on.
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So bringing all thatknowledge to Portugal,
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has really revolutionizedthis place, you know.
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This town here,this used to be a...
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Sorry to say, and I don'tmean to offend
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anyone here in Nazare,but this used to be like...
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Ten years ago, used to be ashitty town.
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Everyone was broke.
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Middle of a crisis.
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Restaurants were closed.
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In the interim decade,
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things have changed.
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If you walkthrough the town,
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restaurants are full,
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people are drinking beerson the streets,
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you know,like, everyone's happy,
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everyone is making a living.
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Big wave,
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Nazare.
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There's peopleflying from
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all over the worldto come see this place.
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And the truth is,the best place
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to see big wavesis, is here.
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What draws surfersfrom nations around the world
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is not just the size,
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but the incredible,unmatched consistency
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of the giant surf in Nazare.
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Making it perhapsthe best stage on the planet
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for facing fearsand pushing boundaries.
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It's still amatter of patience
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waiting forthe truly epic days.
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And while Nazarewaits for these
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mega swells to arrive,
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this winter, the other sideof the big wave world
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stirs to life.
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The swell isforecasted to hit Peahi,
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otherwise known as Jawson the north shore of Maui.
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For tourists,it's delicious idyll.
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But to others,
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it's the ultimate testfor a big wave surfer.
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Among them, drawn tothe paddling in style at Jaws,
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over the jet ski assistedtowing approach at Nazare,
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is South African,Matt Bromley.
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Hawaii looked likeit was going
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into a really good pattern.
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And it looked like
there was some big storms
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heading to Jaws.
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I kind of gave myself,like,
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I am going to stay in Hawaiifor a month,away from my family.
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This is my period to getbig waves at Jaws.
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In La Nina years,
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the motto is,
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if there is anything, you
better go and you rearrange
your life
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to chase those swells
when they are there.
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'Cause there might not be
another one behind it.
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As Matt travelsacross the planet,
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he reflects backon his previous year's trip,
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where the wave of a lifetime,almost came true.
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This huge wall of waterkind of just
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grew out of the deep.
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And everyone is paddlingup the face,
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and I was sitting further out
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and I wasin the perfect place for it.
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And I swung my buoyand I just thought,
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"If I make this wave,
this is gonna be my ride,
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"that I've been
dreaming about."
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I popped to my feetand this wind chop,
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uh, hit me and caused meto go into the air.
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As I landed, my foot slipped,
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and I landedon the side of the board,
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which sent my boardinto a bit of a cutback.
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And I just remember
thinking, like,
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"Oh my gosh,
this is as bad as it can get."
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'Cause I could, kind of, see
out of the corner of my eye,
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30, 40 foot above me
that lip starting to fall.
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And the lip landed
on the tail of my board.
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Exploded me so hard.
194
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And it just pushed me
so deep down under the water.
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Everyone gets scared.
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00:11:09,474 --> 00:11:13,678
And big wave surfing
is so scary and terrifying.
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But the thing is, I knowall of the big wave guys,
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and everyone gets scared,and that everyone finds a way
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to deal with that fear
and that challenge, because
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I really believethat challenges that are...
201
00:11:25,156 --> 00:11:26,824
The big challengesare always scary.
202
00:11:26,858 --> 00:11:28,193
But the bigger the challenge,
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the more it's gonna help youto grow if you can...
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If you can leaninto that challenge
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and go surf that wave.
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00:11:34,132 --> 00:11:36,734
For me, I will travelacross the whole world
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for a swell to getone life-changing wave.
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That's always the goalwhen I go to places.
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It's not about getting
lots of fun, good waves.
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It's about getting
that one wave
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that's gonna change my life.
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Matt is relentlesslychasing the wave of his life,
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a journeythat began 20 years ago
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at his homeat the bottom of the world.
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There, boy.
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Go big or go home.
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Okay. Seewhat you can do.
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I'll come...I'm right after you.
219
00:12:04,530 --> 00:12:06,665
So I am fromCape Town, South Africa,
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00:12:06,699 --> 00:12:10,168
and I grew up about half an
hour away from the beach
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and at about the age of six,
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my dad wouldtake me down to the beach,
223
00:12:13,539 --> 00:12:16,241
like, every second weekendto surf the lot.
224
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Learnedto surf waves at Muizenberg.
225
00:12:18,309 --> 00:12:20,211
And then it wasn't
until the age of 12,
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00:12:20,245 --> 00:12:23,147
when we moved to a house
on the beach in Kommetjie.
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00:12:23,181 --> 00:12:25,651
And it's just surrounded by
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big surf all around.
229
00:12:26,951 --> 00:12:29,420
And right in front of my house
was a wave called Sunset Reef,
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which is one of the bestbig waves in the world.
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00:12:31,456 --> 00:12:33,491
And I'll comeback from school,
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I'll look out, andI see the guys
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00:12:35,059 --> 00:12:36,861
towing these
huge waves out there,
234
00:12:36,894 --> 00:12:38,096
and I knew, like, one day,
235
00:12:38,129 --> 00:12:41,199
I wanted to be involved with
that stuff, that, that action.
236
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And the big winter swells
237
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on the other sideof the bay,
238
00:12:45,370 --> 00:12:46,705
you can see the plumes
239
00:12:46,739 --> 00:12:49,508
of the explosions of water
going up the cliff,
240
00:12:49,541 --> 00:12:51,476
off the Sentinel,
which is where Dungeons is.
241
00:12:51,510 --> 00:12:54,946
And Dungeons is one of the
most feared waves in the
world.
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00:12:54,979 --> 00:12:56,715
He would have to gothrough the progression
243
00:12:56,749 --> 00:12:58,883
that all big wave surfersgo through.
244
00:12:58,916 --> 00:13:02,453
Lessons learned the hard way.
245
00:13:02,487 --> 00:13:04,822
My first experienceof proper big waves
246
00:13:04,856 --> 00:13:07,025
was absolutely terrifying.
247
00:13:07,058 --> 00:13:08,560
I was sitting out there
in the lineup
248
00:13:08,594 --> 00:13:10,696
and then the whole horizonjust went dark
249
00:13:10,729 --> 00:13:12,096
and started to break.
250
00:13:12,130 --> 00:13:14,332
I just started to feel
this fear coming over me.
251
00:13:14,365 --> 00:13:15,634
So I just followed the crowd
252
00:13:15,668 --> 00:13:17,503
and I was greeted
by my worst nightmare.
253
00:13:17,536 --> 00:13:21,372
It's like 25 ft wall of water
breaking on my head.
254
00:13:24,876 --> 00:13:26,044
I just find myself
255
00:13:26,077 --> 00:13:27,613
overwhelmed with panic
256
00:13:27,646 --> 00:13:28,714
and fear taking over me,
257
00:13:28,747 --> 00:13:30,181
my adrenaline
going through the roof.
258
00:13:30,214 --> 00:13:31,617
I couldn't breathe properly.
259
00:13:31,650 --> 00:13:34,018
And I had to swim throughfive of these,
260
00:13:34,052 --> 00:13:36,220
like 25, 30-footwalls of water.
261
00:13:36,254 --> 00:13:38,724
And by the timethe ocean settled,
262
00:13:38,757 --> 00:13:42,260
I was overwhelmedwith fear and panic,
263
00:13:42,293 --> 00:13:43,595
and I was like,I'm out of here.
264
00:13:43,629 --> 00:13:45,798
And I actually startedpaddling back towards thechannel
265
00:13:45,830 --> 00:13:48,667
to the boats,to get out the water.
266
00:13:48,701 --> 00:13:52,270
Shaken, demoralized,wrapped up in fear
267
00:13:52,303 --> 00:13:54,372
and about to call it quits,
268
00:13:54,405 --> 00:13:57,509
the ocean offered upa life changing gift.
269
00:13:57,543 --> 00:13:59,010
That's whensomething amazing happened.
270
00:13:59,043 --> 00:13:59,844
I was a little bit wider
271
00:13:59,877 --> 00:14:01,279
because I was paddlingon my way.
272
00:14:01,312 --> 00:14:02,980
Another big setbroke over the crowd,
273
00:14:03,014 --> 00:14:04,717
and I was
in the perfect spot
274
00:14:04,750 --> 00:14:06,050
for this
big bomb of wave.
275
00:14:06,084 --> 00:14:09,722
And something last minute
just told me to spin
and go and...
276
00:14:15,193 --> 00:14:18,630
I remember turning my nose
towards the beach,
277
00:14:18,664 --> 00:14:21,834
and being lifted up by this
what felt like a mountain.
278
00:14:21,866 --> 00:14:23,034
And I looked over the edge,
279
00:14:23,067 --> 00:14:25,370
and I took, like, two paddlesand dropped in and...
280
00:14:25,403 --> 00:14:26,938
Just that feeling,
281
00:14:26,971 --> 00:14:29,340
picking up, like, speedI've never felt before,
282
00:14:29,374 --> 00:14:31,409
and riding thishuge blue wall of water.
283
00:14:31,442 --> 00:14:34,178
And I rode all the wayto the channel and pulledout.
284
00:14:34,212 --> 00:14:36,447
That was like
the biggest thrill of my life.
285
00:14:36,481 --> 00:14:38,717
And I was like,
I want to do this thing.
286
00:14:38,751 --> 00:14:40,686
I need to start
training for this,
287
00:14:40,719 --> 00:14:42,086
I need to start
thinking about this,
288
00:14:42,120 --> 00:14:44,222
and I think this is the
new course that I wanna take,
289
00:14:44,255 --> 00:14:45,824
to be a big wave surfer.
290
00:14:47,760 --> 00:14:49,360
Chasing the wave of his life,
291
00:14:49,394 --> 00:14:51,195
Matt connectswith Torrey Meister,
292
00:14:51,229 --> 00:14:53,498
a laid back North Shore local.
293
00:14:53,532 --> 00:14:55,233
I've known Matt
for a really long time,
294
00:14:55,266 --> 00:14:58,069
and he's, he's always
one of my favorite guys
295
00:14:58,102 --> 00:14:59,337
to chase swells with.
296
00:14:59,370 --> 00:15:00,873
The son of a Texas transplant,
297
00:15:00,905 --> 00:15:04,208
Torrey is known for chargingBig Backdoor Pipeline
298
00:15:04,242 --> 00:15:06,545
and followingin his father's footsteps.
299
00:15:06,578 --> 00:15:08,547
There are oppositeswho attract,
300
00:15:08,580 --> 00:15:11,683
but are bound togetherby the same passion.
301
00:15:11,717 --> 00:15:13,719
My dad
was the biggest influence,
302
00:15:13,752 --> 00:15:14,952
as far as surfing goes.
303
00:15:14,986 --> 00:15:16,622
I wanted to have
a surf partner,
304
00:15:17,221 --> 00:15:18,156
with Torrey.
305
00:15:18,189 --> 00:15:20,893
So it was very, very
306
00:15:20,925 --> 00:15:22,193
important to me
307
00:15:22,226 --> 00:15:25,697
to have my son bethat sort of partner.
308
00:15:25,731 --> 00:15:28,600
And it's for this reason
I showed him the ropes.
309
00:15:30,168 --> 00:15:32,270
When he taught mehow to surf, I just became
310
00:15:32,303 --> 00:15:33,539
completely hooked right away.
311
00:15:33,572 --> 00:15:35,440
I mean, I have brief memories
of telling him
312
00:15:35,473 --> 00:15:36,742
when I was fiveor six years old,
313
00:15:36,775 --> 00:15:38,075
like, "I want to bea pro surfer,"
314
00:15:38,109 --> 00:15:40,512
And he's always supported me,like, since day one, you know.
315
00:15:40,546 --> 00:15:41,345
He's like,"You can do it."
316
00:15:41,379 --> 00:15:43,549
"Just, you know,
enjoy and have fun."
317
00:15:43,582 --> 00:15:45,950
"Do anything you want."
318
00:15:45,983 --> 00:15:48,052
The Cold Water Classicwas the, you know,
319
00:15:48,085 --> 00:15:51,122
the most pivotal momentin my surfing career for sure.
320
00:15:51,155 --> 00:15:52,356
Event was really cool.
321
00:15:52,390 --> 00:15:54,225
It's for uh,
unsponsored surfers.
322
00:15:54,258 --> 00:15:56,628
So they invite 16 guys
from around the world.
323
00:15:56,662 --> 00:15:59,397
And they pretty muchlet them duke it out
324
00:15:59,430 --> 00:16:01,332
for a sponsorshipwith O'Neill.
325
00:16:04,202 --> 00:16:05,470
And I ended up winning.
326
00:16:05,504 --> 00:16:08,473
And it was a... It wasa really special moment forme,
327
00:16:08,507 --> 00:16:11,108
and it totally changed
my whole career.
328
00:16:11,142 --> 00:16:12,276
Despite opening the door
329
00:16:12,310 --> 00:16:13,779
to a traditional pro career,
330
00:16:13,812 --> 00:16:17,381
Torrey found it unfulfilling,and turned his eyes andefforts
331
00:16:17,415 --> 00:16:19,984
to beinga free surfing big waverider.
332
00:16:24,355 --> 00:16:26,558
As the first swellof the season shows up,
333
00:16:26,592 --> 00:16:30,662
the vagaries of chasing wavessplit up the duo.
334
00:16:30,696 --> 00:16:34,800
Matt goes to Maui, desperateto catch Jaws no matter what.
335
00:16:37,936 --> 00:16:40,438
Torrey decides to stayon the north shore of Oahu,
336
00:16:40,471 --> 00:16:42,708
where he thinks conditionswill be more favorable.
337
00:16:44,643 --> 00:16:46,277
At dawn,Matt is greeted by
338
00:16:46,310 --> 00:16:48,479
a disappointing sightupon his arrival.
339
00:16:48,514 --> 00:16:50,281
And looks to havemade the wrong call,
340
00:16:50,314 --> 00:16:51,517
and won't be scoring.
341
00:16:54,352 --> 00:16:55,888
But the misfire on Maui
342
00:16:55,921 --> 00:16:58,590
is contrastedwith some magic on Oahu.
343
00:16:58,624 --> 00:17:00,959
This particular swell,while not massive,
344
00:17:00,993 --> 00:17:01,960
hits the sweet spot,
345
00:17:01,994 --> 00:17:04,897
and is perfectfor a challenging location.
346
00:17:04,930 --> 00:17:07,933
A legitimately heavy wave,if not a giant one,
347
00:17:07,966 --> 00:17:08,967
called Haleiwa.
348
00:17:10,201 --> 00:17:11,570
And Torrey scores,
349
00:17:11,603 --> 00:17:13,539
along with an all-star cast
350
00:17:13,572 --> 00:17:15,874
of some of the best surferson the planet.
351
00:17:17,074 --> 00:17:18,442
It's one ofthe heaviest waves,
352
00:17:18,476 --> 00:17:19,511
I think, in the world,
353
00:17:19,545 --> 00:17:21,547
and I don't thinkpeople really realize that
354
00:17:21,580 --> 00:17:22,948
it will pound you
like a big wave.
355
00:17:22,981 --> 00:17:24,583
So, it's a heavy wave.
356
00:17:24,616 --> 00:17:27,653
And that day was
especially heavy and big
and...
357
00:17:29,755 --> 00:17:31,757
The powerand ferocity of the wave
358
00:17:31,790 --> 00:17:33,525
allow for highperformance surfing
359
00:17:33,559 --> 00:17:35,594
in a high risk environment,
360
00:17:35,627 --> 00:17:39,397
at least for a select handfulof premier surfers.
361
00:17:39,430 --> 00:17:42,066
Some of the bestwere out there tearing it up.
362
00:18:11,597 --> 00:18:13,431
It's great surfing, you know,
363
00:18:13,464 --> 00:18:16,068
with that kind of levelout there in Haleiwa.
364
00:18:16,100 --> 00:18:17,736
Those guys are likeall your friends and
365
00:18:17,769 --> 00:18:18,870
they are obviously pushing.
366
00:18:18,904 --> 00:18:20,872
Everyone's trying to getthe best wave out there.
367
00:18:21,840 --> 00:18:24,141
I think that's
super healthy for the sport,
368
00:18:24,175 --> 00:18:25,911
'cause it pushes
you as a surfer
369
00:18:25,944 --> 00:18:27,746
and as an individual.
370
00:18:39,691 --> 00:18:41,258
Also out that day,
371
00:18:41,292 --> 00:18:42,628
was Kai Lenny,
372
00:18:42,661 --> 00:18:47,032
arguably the best all aroundbig wave waterman in theworld.
373
00:18:47,065 --> 00:18:50,502
Having grown up on Maui,just down the street fromJaws,
374
00:18:50,535 --> 00:18:53,038
he left an indelible markon the big wave world
375
00:18:53,071 --> 00:18:56,140
with a single turn,an incredible airdrop,
376
00:18:56,173 --> 00:18:57,743
at his backyard break.
377
00:18:59,176 --> 00:19:00,411
In a normal season,
378
00:19:00,444 --> 00:19:01,980
he relentlesslytravels the globe
379
00:19:02,014 --> 00:19:04,583
in search of the biggestwaves he can find.
380
00:19:04,616 --> 00:19:05,884
Pushing past fear,
381
00:19:05,917 --> 00:19:09,121
and redefining what'spossible at places likeNazare.
382
00:19:13,592 --> 00:19:16,094
But this season,he's tethered closer to home
383
00:19:16,128 --> 00:19:17,529
'cause his wife is pregnant,
384
00:19:17,562 --> 00:19:19,931
and the birth of his twinsis imminent,
385
00:19:19,965 --> 00:19:23,001
he makes the mostof the Haleiwa session.
386
00:19:40,384 --> 00:19:41,687
Matt is burned on Maui
387
00:19:41,720 --> 00:19:43,922
and Torreyis scoring on the NorthShore.
388
00:19:45,423 --> 00:19:46,825
But for this winter season,
389
00:19:46,858 --> 00:19:48,694
they've enlisted the helpof a liaison
390
00:19:48,727 --> 00:19:51,195
to their surf forecaster,Curtis Beck,
391
00:19:51,228 --> 00:19:52,229
a surfer himself,
392
00:19:52,263 --> 00:19:55,701
to be in the right placeat the right time.
393
00:19:55,734 --> 00:19:59,004
He injects himselfinto what needs to happennext.
394
00:20:03,542 --> 00:20:05,342
I got acall from Curtis,
395
00:20:05,376 --> 00:20:07,112
and he just gets you psyched
396
00:20:07,145 --> 00:20:08,513
to go chase big waves.
397
00:20:08,547 --> 00:20:11,315
You know, he's like,
"You won't believe it."
398
00:20:11,348 --> 00:20:12,483
"The waves are..."
399
00:20:12,517 --> 00:20:14,318
"are like 10 ft bigger."
400
00:20:14,351 --> 00:20:15,987
You gotta get
to the airport now.
401
00:20:16,021 --> 00:20:17,089
And I was like...
402
00:20:17,122 --> 00:20:19,490
It's like sprinting upthe Jaws part.
403
00:20:19,524 --> 00:20:20,559
I am a hype machine.
404
00:20:20,592 --> 00:20:23,394
Where I'm a hype machine,
is trying to factor in
405
00:20:23,427 --> 00:20:26,598
the odds
of where and when to be.
406
00:20:27,999 --> 00:20:29,801
There's an oldsaying in the surf world.
407
00:20:29,835 --> 00:20:32,904
"Never leave good waves."
408
00:20:32,938 --> 00:20:35,774
With the help ofsurf forecaster, MarkSponsler,
409
00:20:35,807 --> 00:20:38,543
Curtis makes the high riskcall for Matt and Torrey,
410
00:20:38,577 --> 00:20:41,146
to head to Mavericksin Northern California.
411
00:20:41,179 --> 00:20:42,814
It's againstconventional wisdom.
412
00:20:42,848 --> 00:20:44,549
And with no other pro surfer
413
00:20:44,583 --> 00:20:47,085
even thinking aboutmaking the same call.
414
00:20:47,119 --> 00:20:50,922
The call was made on
24 hours' notice.
415
00:20:50,956 --> 00:20:53,091
Mavericks is
particularly fickle,
416
00:20:53,125 --> 00:20:55,326
in the wind area,
in local winds.
417
00:20:55,359 --> 00:20:58,697
and the local wind models
are not the best.
418
00:20:58,730 --> 00:21:00,364
But when you get in like a 20,
419
00:21:00,397 --> 00:21:03,367
36-24 hour window,
boom!
420
00:21:03,400 --> 00:21:05,537
All of a sudden
for this one swell,
421
00:21:05,570 --> 00:21:08,372
it just...
It just... The wind
422
00:21:08,405 --> 00:21:10,041
was forecasted to disappear.
423
00:21:10,075 --> 00:21:12,144
You had to be willing
to turn on the dime.
424
00:21:13,912 --> 00:21:15,046
It's latein the afternoon
425
00:21:15,080 --> 00:21:16,748
as Bromley headsto the airport.
426
00:21:16,782 --> 00:21:18,850
Torrey is just gettingout of the water.
427
00:21:18,884 --> 00:21:20,185
If Sponsler's correct,
428
00:21:20,218 --> 00:21:22,319
they need to get on a flightthat evening.
429
00:21:23,320 --> 00:21:24,990
You know,I probably surf for,
430
00:21:25,023 --> 00:21:27,159
two and a half,three hours or so.
431
00:21:29,161 --> 00:21:31,163
I remember coming in and
I had like, I don't know,
432
00:21:31,196 --> 00:21:34,365
20 missed calls and
40 text messages,
433
00:21:34,398 --> 00:21:36,034
from Curtis, like,
"We're going to Mavericks."
434
00:21:36,067 --> 00:21:37,736
And I was like,
"What, we are?"
435
00:21:37,769 --> 00:21:39,070
"Do you wanna go?"
436
00:21:39,104 --> 00:21:40,639
I was like,
"Is it gonna be good?"
437
00:21:40,672 --> 00:21:41,940
And he's like,"Yeah, Mark, you know,"
438
00:21:41,973 --> 00:21:42,974
says it's gonna be good.
439
00:21:43,008 --> 00:21:44,075
"It looks likeit's gonna be."
440
00:21:44,109 --> 00:21:45,110
So, I was like,
"Yeah, let's do this."
441
00:21:45,143 --> 00:21:47,846
So I literally...
I think I booked my ticket,
442
00:21:47,879 --> 00:21:49,548
hour and a halfbefore the flight.
443
00:21:49,581 --> 00:21:50,615
I barely made the flight.
444
00:21:50,649 --> 00:21:52,851
Luckily, I had boards andeverything there.
445
00:21:55,954 --> 00:21:58,156
I just shoved everything
into my board bags
446
00:21:58,190 --> 00:21:59,124
and,
447
00:21:59,157 --> 00:22:00,692
and got on the plane.
448
00:22:01,827 --> 00:22:03,562
They expected to seeother surfers
449
00:22:03,595 --> 00:22:05,429
on the red eye flightto San Francisco,
450
00:22:05,462 --> 00:22:06,598
just north of Mavericks.
451
00:22:06,631 --> 00:22:08,667
No one else is.
452
00:22:08,700 --> 00:22:10,135
But anyway,everybody made it,
453
00:22:10,168 --> 00:22:12,704
and we got to sleepat like 02:00 in the morning.
454
00:22:28,286 --> 00:22:30,522
At first, it seemedthe naysayers were correct
455
00:22:30,555 --> 00:22:31,923
and no swell is to be had.
456
00:22:31,957 --> 00:22:35,426
And the mad dash and red eyewere a failed mission.
457
00:22:35,459 --> 00:22:38,230
No one else from Hawaiitook Sponsler seriously.
458
00:22:38,263 --> 00:22:40,799
And perhapsthe master forecaster,
459
00:22:40,832 --> 00:22:41,867
got it wrong.
460
00:22:41,900 --> 00:22:43,301
We got downto Mavs in the morning
461
00:22:43,335 --> 00:22:44,536
and they werestill really small,
462
00:22:44,569 --> 00:22:47,471
and I was like, "Oh my gosh,
there's no sign of the swell."
463
00:22:47,505 --> 00:22:48,840
Like, "Is it coming?"
464
00:22:50,175 --> 00:22:51,643
Man, it looksflat out there.
465
00:22:51,676 --> 00:22:54,112
In the back of my mind,
I was like,
I need a swell so bad.
466
00:22:54,880 --> 00:22:56,047
It sucked in Jaws.
467
00:22:56,081 --> 00:22:58,116
It's gonna suck here.
It wasn't that big.
468
00:22:59,818 --> 00:23:01,119
Even though there's no surf,
469
00:23:01,152 --> 00:23:04,089
Torrey gets preparedby picking up his board.
470
00:23:06,224 --> 00:23:07,859
Helping onthe board transfer is
471
00:23:07,893 --> 00:23:10,295
Curt Meyers fromPower Lines Productions.
472
00:23:11,630 --> 00:23:13,565
Along withhis partner, Eric Nelson,
473
00:23:13,598 --> 00:23:14,599
they are not
474
00:23:14,633 --> 00:23:16,368
a typical production company.
475
00:23:16,400 --> 00:23:18,603
But they embodythe passion and commitment
476
00:23:18,637 --> 00:23:20,205
of the waveand surf lifestyle
477
00:23:20,238 --> 00:23:21,206
in Half Moon Bay.
478
00:23:22,741 --> 00:23:24,209
So, long story short,
479
00:23:24,242 --> 00:23:26,645
back in the day,
I started a tv show
480
00:23:26,678 --> 00:23:30,015
a community access channelcalled Powerlines, SurfSpots.
481
00:23:32,217 --> 00:23:33,852
Curt had beena lifelong fan,
482
00:23:33,885 --> 00:23:35,987
and he saw that the showwas getting stale.
483
00:23:36,021 --> 00:23:39,024
So, I challenged himto do his own show onsurfing.
484
00:23:41,860 --> 00:23:44,095
Hey, are you gonna
takeover or what?
485
00:23:44,129 --> 00:23:45,597
He wants
to be the Terminator.
486
00:23:45,630 --> 00:23:46,965
We have the Curt Myer's Show.
487
00:23:46,998 --> 00:23:48,867
-Wrong.
-Gotta be on Powerlines.
488
00:23:48,900 --> 00:23:51,169
-Curt...
-You can put yourself on,
489
00:23:51,202 --> 00:23:53,204
you can put
all his buddies on,
490
00:23:53,238 --> 00:23:55,472
you can put
all his little girlfriends on.
491
00:23:55,507 --> 00:23:56,808
He'll be killing it, bro.
492
00:24:00,512 --> 00:24:01,613
So we joined forces.
493
00:24:01,646 --> 00:24:03,148
Power Lines Productionsessentially
494
00:24:03,181 --> 00:24:05,183
was born on that...Back in the day.
495
00:24:07,451 --> 00:24:09,587
With world classproduction values,
496
00:24:09,621 --> 00:24:10,922
with Eric shootingfrom the cliff
497
00:24:10,956 --> 00:24:12,357
and Curt from the water,
498
00:24:12,390 --> 00:24:14,926
they never missa swell or a key ride.
499
00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:16,861
And representthe devotion to the spot,
500
00:24:16,895 --> 00:24:19,731
which is the hallmarkof the devotees of Mavericks.
501
00:24:24,202 --> 00:24:26,304
The fact is thatriding waves at Mavericks
502
00:24:26,338 --> 00:24:30,442
can be traced to one man,and an extraordinary story.
503
00:24:30,474 --> 00:24:31,376
Growing up,
504
00:24:31,409 --> 00:24:33,178
here in Half Moon Bay,
505
00:24:33,211 --> 00:24:35,880
every morningI sat and ate breakfast
506
00:24:35,914 --> 00:24:37,481
looking at the ocean.
507
00:24:37,515 --> 00:24:40,852
And you could literally seeMavericks off in the right,
508
00:24:40,885 --> 00:24:44,689
and all the restructureout in the whole bay.
509
00:24:44,723 --> 00:24:47,826
Discovering Maverickswas literally
510
00:24:47,859 --> 00:24:51,229
from surfing as big a waves
511
00:24:51,262 --> 00:24:52,597
that I could
512
00:24:52,630 --> 00:24:55,100
around all the other reefs
513
00:24:55,133 --> 00:24:58,403
until depths would pop
in the distance.
514
00:24:59,804 --> 00:25:01,506
At just 17 years old,
515
00:25:01,539 --> 00:25:05,010
Jeff's natural desire to pushhis limits as a surfer,
516
00:25:05,043 --> 00:25:07,379
led him to paddle outat Mavericks,
517
00:25:07,412 --> 00:25:09,414
by himself.
518
00:25:09,447 --> 00:25:13,418
Not only did he successfully surf that day, and manyafter,
519
00:25:13,451 --> 00:25:16,187
but no one elsewould even attempt to surf it
520
00:25:16,221 --> 00:25:17,088
for years.
521
00:25:19,190 --> 00:25:20,892
I went out there,
522
00:25:20,925 --> 00:25:24,229
10 yearscompletely by myself.
523
00:25:24,262 --> 00:25:26,431
After flyingunder the radar for years,
524
00:25:26,464 --> 00:25:29,067
Mavericks would finallyintroduce itself
525
00:25:29,100 --> 00:25:31,036
to the world stagein a cover story
526
00:25:31,069 --> 00:25:33,538
in Surfer magazinein the 1980s,
527
00:25:33,571 --> 00:25:36,574
and would quickly gainworldwide recognition.
528
00:25:39,377 --> 00:25:40,513
Most famous surf spots
529
00:25:40,545 --> 00:25:41,479
around the world,
530
00:25:41,514 --> 00:25:43,114
are shall we say,less than welcoming
531
00:25:43,148 --> 00:25:45,984
to anyoutside visiting surfers.
532
00:25:46,017 --> 00:25:48,753
Despite its fame,the community of Half Moon Bay
533
00:25:48,787 --> 00:25:50,021
has managedto keep Mavericks
534
00:25:50,055 --> 00:25:51,423
a special placefor all surfers.
535
00:25:54,559 --> 00:25:57,862
One of the up and comingkids in our community,
536
00:25:57,896 --> 00:25:59,798
his approach to people was,
537
00:25:59,831 --> 00:26:01,399
is "show up and be kind."
538
00:26:01,433 --> 00:26:02,734
Get along with everybody
539
00:26:02,767 --> 00:26:06,371
and be as welcomingas you know?
540
00:26:06,404 --> 00:26:08,139
And he was that guy.
541
00:26:09,908 --> 00:26:11,609
But uh,he was out surfing
542
00:26:11,643 --> 00:26:13,745
and he kicked out
of a wave
543
00:26:13,778 --> 00:26:15,447
and sat down
and the board collapsed,
544
00:26:15,480 --> 00:26:18,850
and the lifeguards couldn't
get to him before he drowned.
545
00:26:20,051 --> 00:26:21,953
That was his tag line.
546
00:26:21,986 --> 00:26:24,222
So, communitybasically kept it
547
00:26:25,123 --> 00:26:28,026
and uh, try to live it.
548
00:26:28,827 --> 00:26:29,761
Is that you?
549
00:26:29,794 --> 00:26:31,229
-Yeah.
-You're a star, dog.
550
00:26:32,697 --> 00:26:34,032
- Wow.
- Thanks.
551
00:26:34,065 --> 00:26:35,934
When you arrive at Mavs,
552
00:26:35,967 --> 00:26:38,203
everyone on the jet skis
is greeting you
553
00:26:38,236 --> 00:26:39,971
and they are like, "Go for
it." They encouraging.
554
00:26:40,004 --> 00:26:41,206
You get into the lineup and,
555
00:26:41,239 --> 00:26:43,808
and everyone is like cheeringeach other on out there.
556
00:26:43,842 --> 00:26:44,577
It's like this...
557
00:26:44,609 --> 00:26:45,643
I guessthere's this, like,
558
00:26:45,677 --> 00:26:47,946
big wave brotherhoodout there, and all that.
559
00:26:52,884 --> 00:26:54,018
It's such a rad
vibe, out there.
560
00:26:54,052 --> 00:26:55,353
I love surfing Mavericks.
561
00:26:58,857 --> 00:27:01,659
Despitethe unique historyand welcoming vibe,
562
00:27:01,693 --> 00:27:03,328
Mavericks has a dark side.
563
00:27:03,928 --> 00:27:04,863
Having taken the lives
564
00:27:04,896 --> 00:27:07,465
of two professionalbig wave surfers,
565
00:27:07,499 --> 00:27:09,535
Mark Foo, in 1994,
566
00:27:09,568 --> 00:27:12,003
and Sion Milosky in 2011.
567
00:27:12,505 --> 00:27:13,304
And almost
568
00:27:13,338 --> 00:27:14,839
the legendary,Shane Dorian,
569
00:27:14,873 --> 00:27:16,141
couple of years later,
570
00:27:16,174 --> 00:27:17,709
after a vicious wipeout
571
00:27:17,742 --> 00:27:19,377
and a two wavehold down.
572
00:27:23,848 --> 00:27:24,949
But for Matt and Torrey,
573
00:27:24,983 --> 00:27:26,951
there are no such concerns,
574
00:27:26,985 --> 00:27:30,021
as the swell they chasedis nowhere to be seen.
575
00:27:33,024 --> 00:27:35,628
Suddenly theocean is stirring,
576
00:27:35,660 --> 00:27:39,964
and it looks like they mayhave made the right call,after all.
577
00:27:39,998 --> 00:27:42,333
Suddenly we saw this
big explosion, like,
578
00:27:42,367 --> 00:27:45,504
"Oh, we gotta get out there."
579
00:27:45,538 --> 00:27:47,939
While Matt andTorrey have surfed herebefore,
580
00:27:47,972 --> 00:27:50,275
neither really hasthe lay of the land.
581
00:27:59,751 --> 00:28:00,818
Yeah. I mean, Torrey,
582
00:28:00,852 --> 00:28:02,187
I don't even knowhow many times he's surfed.
583
00:28:02,220 --> 00:28:03,888
I think he surfed
Mavericks like twice.
584
00:28:03,922 --> 00:28:05,658
So, I've surfed there twice.
585
00:28:05,690 --> 00:28:06,925
So I was following him,
586
00:28:06,958 --> 00:28:08,426
but he didn't really know
what he was doing.
587
00:28:10,261 --> 00:28:11,796
I haven't donein, like, three years,
588
00:28:11,829 --> 00:28:13,164
and I've only done it once.
589
00:28:13,198 --> 00:28:15,534
So...
And it was from the left.
590
00:28:16,201 --> 00:28:17,168
But...
591
00:28:17,202 --> 00:28:18,770
we'll find a way out.
592
00:28:18,803 --> 00:28:21,507
This guy's from South Africa,dude, he'll find a way out.
593
00:28:33,818 --> 00:28:36,487
Then we paddle outaround the left, out at Mavs,
594
00:28:36,522 --> 00:28:38,456
which isquite a spectacular view,
595
00:28:38,489 --> 00:28:39,991
because when you'reon the left,
596
00:28:40,024 --> 00:28:42,093
you're looking directlyinto the slab
597
00:28:42,126 --> 00:28:43,895
and the left barrel'scoming towards you.
598
00:28:43,928 --> 00:28:45,196
Just massive.
599
00:28:53,706 --> 00:28:55,740
We got out thereat, like, one o'clock
600
00:28:55,773 --> 00:28:57,242
and was just bombing.
601
00:28:59,177 --> 00:29:01,846
Pristine glass,like, no wind at all.
602
00:29:01,879 --> 00:29:03,081
Perfect conditions.
603
00:29:03,114 --> 00:29:04,315
This swell wasa lot bigger
604
00:29:04,349 --> 00:29:05,483
than I thoughtit was gonna be.
605
00:29:05,517 --> 00:29:07,418
When I surfedMavericks of that size,
606
00:29:07,452 --> 00:29:09,521
my main focus is,is that left
607
00:29:09,555 --> 00:29:12,558
because I think there's justso much potential there.
608
00:29:13,692 --> 00:29:16,160
Now, you see, you know, no
609
00:29:16,194 --> 00:29:17,195
human beings like us,
610
00:29:17,228 --> 00:29:19,297
going out thereand pushing our hardest to,
611
00:29:19,330 --> 00:29:21,499
you know, overcome our fears.
612
00:29:21,533 --> 00:29:24,802
When you see someonereally just super passionate
613
00:29:24,836 --> 00:29:27,405
and not letting fear
take over,
614
00:29:27,438 --> 00:29:29,742
and just going at it,
you know, head down.
615
00:29:29,774 --> 00:29:32,410
I think It's, uh,
it's a very motivating thing.
616
00:29:34,078 --> 00:29:35,346
Despite going out with dreams
617
00:29:35,380 --> 00:29:37,482
of a big left slab barrel,
618
00:29:37,516 --> 00:29:40,418
the ocean has its way ofdetermining how things go
619
00:29:40,451 --> 00:29:42,721
and Torrey ends up front side.
620
00:29:42,755 --> 00:29:43,888
I remember just
621
00:29:43,921 --> 00:29:45,591
doubling up super hard,like, right on the peak.
622
00:29:45,624 --> 00:29:47,325
I just whipped it
really fast and went.
623
00:29:47,358 --> 00:29:48,926
And I rememberjust kind of airdropping,
624
00:29:48,960 --> 00:29:50,596
like, "Oh, man,"
625
00:29:50,629 --> 00:29:51,764
"this...this is uh..."
626
00:29:51,796 --> 00:29:53,766
"This isn't good.
I better stick this time."
627
00:30:01,306 --> 00:30:03,408
That was probably my bestwave, I ended up being right,
628
00:30:03,441 --> 00:30:04,643
which is kind of funny, it's
629
00:30:04,677 --> 00:30:06,444
like a nice airdrop
630
00:30:06,477 --> 00:30:09,414
and ended up sticking itand getting mowed down.
631
00:30:09,447 --> 00:30:11,784
And gettingpretty dang close to therocks
632
00:30:11,816 --> 00:30:13,051
and on Mushroom Rock
633
00:30:13,084 --> 00:30:14,553
on the insideand all that area.
634
00:30:19,558 --> 00:30:21,527
For Matt, in the past,
635
00:30:21,560 --> 00:30:24,262
Mavericks has beenthe best of times,
636
00:30:24,295 --> 00:30:26,264
and the worst of times.
637
00:30:26,297 --> 00:30:27,533
The last timeI was at Mavericks,
638
00:30:27,566 --> 00:30:29,568
I had one of the best wavesI've ever had,
639
00:30:29,601 --> 00:30:31,235
and I hadall this confidence.
640
00:30:43,081 --> 00:30:44,882
And then,
I paddled into this wave
641
00:30:44,916 --> 00:30:46,384
thinking, like, I've got this,
642
00:30:46,417 --> 00:30:47,985
and the whole bottomof the ocean
643
00:30:48,019 --> 00:30:49,120
just seemed to fall away.
644
00:30:49,153 --> 00:30:50,756
And I was justpushed into the depths,
645
00:30:50,789 --> 00:30:52,624
one of the worstbeatings of my life.
646
00:30:52,658 --> 00:30:55,293
And that was the last wave
I had out at Mavericks.
647
00:30:55,326 --> 00:30:56,928
And now going
back out there,
648
00:30:56,961 --> 00:30:58,096
in the back of my mind,
I'm like,
649
00:30:58,129 --> 00:31:00,331
"Hey, the waves are beautiful
and they look friendly."
650
00:31:00,365 --> 00:31:02,033
But there's a chance that
651
00:31:02,066 --> 00:31:03,702
you could have
the worst wipeout of your
life.
652
00:31:05,504 --> 00:31:08,139
My approach is always
to sit a little bit outside
653
00:31:08,172 --> 00:31:10,942
and try to get
the biggest wave of the day.
654
00:31:10,975 --> 00:31:12,944
That's what
I'm out here to do.
655
00:31:12,977 --> 00:31:14,312
This beautiful, big
656
00:31:14,345 --> 00:31:16,815
peak came in
and it just looked incredible.
657
00:31:20,284 --> 00:31:21,352
When I was paddling into it,
658
00:31:21,386 --> 00:31:23,354
I was looking down,and it looked like it was
659
00:31:23,388 --> 00:31:25,456
too critical,and getting too steep.
660
00:31:25,490 --> 00:31:28,126
But I just thought, like,
this is what I'm here for.
661
00:31:28,159 --> 00:31:29,728
Just gotta send it.
662
00:31:29,762 --> 00:31:31,062
I really believe that,
663
00:31:31,095 --> 00:31:32,263
challenges that are...
664
00:31:32,296 --> 00:31:34,031
The big challengesare always scary.
665
00:31:34,065 --> 00:31:34,999
But the bigger the challenge,
666
00:31:35,032 --> 00:31:36,467
the more it's gonnahelp you to grow.
667
00:31:36,502 --> 00:31:37,836
Everyone has that fear
668
00:31:37,870 --> 00:31:39,237
that's holding them back.
669
00:31:39,270 --> 00:31:40,773
And you have toface that fear.
670
00:31:40,806 --> 00:31:43,040
All the feelingsof vulnerability,
671
00:31:43,074 --> 00:31:44,909
the anxieties,it's all part of it.
672
00:31:44,942 --> 00:31:47,278
And unless you face that,and move through it,
673
00:31:47,311 --> 00:31:49,313
you're going to remainin the smaller world.
674
00:31:52,684 --> 00:31:54,653
But if you face itand move through it,
675
00:31:54,686 --> 00:31:56,454
then you're gonna experiencesome of the best things,
676
00:31:56,487 --> 00:31:57,790
and you're gonna growas a human being,
677
00:31:57,823 --> 00:31:59,457
and you're going to be able
to surf that big wave.
678
00:31:59,490 --> 00:32:01,392
That is your destiny.
679
00:32:05,463 --> 00:32:06,397
It's so often,
680
00:32:06,431 --> 00:32:08,332
I think on the other sideof that fear
681
00:32:08,366 --> 00:32:10,536
is where we experienceour best moments.
682
00:32:15,908 --> 00:32:17,709
A year later,Matt has pushed past
683
00:32:17,743 --> 00:32:19,545
the memoryof his heavy wipeout,
684
00:32:19,578 --> 00:32:21,814
and for a few minuteshe watches Torrey,
685
00:32:21,847 --> 00:32:23,749
who is lookingfor his dream wave.
686
00:32:24,783 --> 00:32:26,984
Although Mavericksis famous for its right,
687
00:32:27,018 --> 00:32:30,656
the left representsthe next frontier of the wave.
688
00:32:30,689 --> 00:32:33,859
And Torrey sets the standardwith a deep one.
689
00:32:34,959 --> 00:32:37,028
I got a few lefts
690
00:32:37,061 --> 00:32:38,931
and then one left
in particular.
691
00:32:38,963 --> 00:32:40,933
That was like I
got a barrel on.
692
00:32:40,965 --> 00:32:42,701
It felt really, really fun.
693
00:32:52,678 --> 00:32:55,012
After an amazing first ride,
694
00:32:55,046 --> 00:32:56,515
Matt is feeling invincible
695
00:32:56,548 --> 00:32:58,817
and ready for another bomb.
696
00:32:58,851 --> 00:33:00,284
This wave cameand moved under the pack
697
00:33:00,318 --> 00:33:01,285
'cause it was a big double up.
698
00:33:01,319 --> 00:33:03,187
I just thought, like,"I could do this"
699
00:33:03,221 --> 00:33:04,656
and I put my head down.
700
00:33:04,690 --> 00:33:06,357
And as I stood up at the top,
701
00:33:06,390 --> 00:33:08,326
the bottom of the wavejust dropped too quickly,
702
00:33:08,359 --> 00:33:10,963
and my board was,was too long
703
00:33:10,995 --> 00:33:15,032
and I nosedive and just,like, flung, catapulted me
704
00:33:15,066 --> 00:33:16,702
over the front of the board.
705
00:33:16,735 --> 00:33:18,469
It's thisweird silence before,
706
00:33:18,504 --> 00:33:19,872
like the chaosis about to start
707
00:33:19,905 --> 00:33:23,107
because you're just gettingpulled up and over in thelip,
708
00:33:23,140 --> 00:33:24,843
and then it took so long.
709
00:33:24,877 --> 00:33:28,312
And then it was just theimpact was so gnarly, and sostrong
710
00:33:28,346 --> 00:33:31,717
and just rattled
and pulled in all directions.
711
00:33:31,750 --> 00:33:32,985
I ended up having to
pull my vest
712
00:33:33,017 --> 00:33:35,353
because I was getting pushedsuper deep under the water.
713
00:33:35,386 --> 00:33:37,388
Came up
and my board was in two
pieces,
714
00:33:37,421 --> 00:33:39,323
I was like, "No."
715
00:33:39,357 --> 00:33:40,526
At most big wave spots,
716
00:33:40,559 --> 00:33:43,127
the other surfers would smilequietly to themselves
717
00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:46,030
that a force in the lineuphas been sidelined.
718
00:33:46,063 --> 00:33:47,465
But luckily for Matt,
719
00:33:47,498 --> 00:33:49,768
Mavericks'special spirit reveals itself
720
00:33:49,801 --> 00:33:52,336
as local big wave legend,Peter Mel,
721
00:33:52,370 --> 00:33:53,271
who has ridden the biggest
722
00:33:53,304 --> 00:33:55,641
and best barrelin the spot's history,
723
00:33:55,674 --> 00:33:57,943
offers to shareone of his backup boards.
724
00:33:58,877 --> 00:34:00,378
The wavesare pumping still
725
00:34:00,411 --> 00:34:01,479
and I've got a broken board.
726
00:34:01,513 --> 00:34:03,649
So I went up to Peteand he was on the jet ski,
727
00:34:03,682 --> 00:34:06,384
watching his son
John, charging.
728
00:34:06,417 --> 00:34:09,487
I'm like, "Pete, please,I really needthis backup board."
729
00:34:09,521 --> 00:34:11,322
Like, "Where is it?"He's like, "Yeah, it's cool."
730
00:34:11,355 --> 00:34:12,791
"It's in the...It's in my van."
731
00:34:12,824 --> 00:34:15,027
Like, "Here,this is where the key is."
732
00:34:15,059 --> 00:34:16,160
And so he raced in.
733
00:34:16,193 --> 00:34:18,362
And thank you, Pete,for bringing down the board.
734
00:34:22,199 --> 00:34:23,301
Got the board, went back out
735
00:34:23,334 --> 00:34:24,536
and got a few more waves.
736
00:34:27,338 --> 00:34:28,406
Such a nice day,you know.
737
00:34:28,439 --> 00:34:30,676
We had, like, probablythree or four hour window,
738
00:34:30,709 --> 00:34:32,844
and then the wind
started whipping
739
00:34:32,878 --> 00:34:35,714
and went straight on shore,
and it was done.
740
00:34:35,747 --> 00:34:37,749
Definitely the bestbig wave session
741
00:34:37,783 --> 00:34:39,851
that I've hadthis whole year by far.
742
00:34:42,054 --> 00:34:43,755
Yeah, we called Curtisright after and like,
743
00:34:43,789 --> 00:34:45,189
"Dude, thank youso much, man."
744
00:34:48,694 --> 00:34:50,261
It may nothave been the biggest day
745
00:34:50,294 --> 00:34:51,563
in Mavs' history,
746
00:34:51,597 --> 00:34:53,765
but it was one ofthe cleanest daysin a long time,
747
00:34:53,799 --> 00:34:56,602
making the red-eye trip,the right call.
748
00:34:58,937 --> 00:35:02,007
72 hours,after arriving in California,
749
00:35:02,040 --> 00:35:03,207
the boys find themselves
750
00:35:03,240 --> 00:35:05,109
heading straightback to Hawaii.
751
00:35:07,111 --> 00:35:09,815
And with Matt's time in Hawaiistarting to grow short,
752
00:35:09,848 --> 00:35:12,884
he's heartened by the newsof a possible fresh swell,
753
00:35:12,918 --> 00:35:15,486
but one surrounded byquestion marks.
754
00:35:15,520 --> 00:35:17,823
Such is the lifeof a big wave surfer.
755
00:35:18,790 --> 00:35:20,391
I've got like
a week left before
756
00:35:20,424 --> 00:35:22,326
I have got to get
home to my family.
757
00:35:22,360 --> 00:35:25,429
And this good looking
pulse of swell
758
00:35:25,463 --> 00:35:26,832
is coming
for the weekend.
759
00:35:26,865 --> 00:35:29,701
Everyone's saying it's gonna
be too small for Jaws.
760
00:35:29,735 --> 00:35:31,036
It's gonna be too windy.
761
00:35:32,571 --> 00:35:34,039
I knew thatif there was a chance
762
00:35:34,072 --> 00:35:36,108
that Jaws would be going,then I needed to be out there.
763
00:35:36,140 --> 00:35:39,911
I needed to spend as muchtime out at Jaws as possible.
764
00:35:39,945 --> 00:35:41,312
And if there'sanything happening,
765
00:35:41,345 --> 00:35:42,748
I've gotta be out there.
766
00:35:43,414 --> 00:35:44,850
Matt was just frothing to go.
767
00:35:44,883 --> 00:35:46,852
He's like, "I just... I'm
going to go, no matter what."
768
00:35:46,885 --> 00:35:48,654
And I was like, "I don't know
if I'm going to go, man."
769
00:35:48,687 --> 00:35:49,554
I think it's going to be bad.
770
00:35:49,588 --> 00:35:51,023
I think it will bewindy and small.
771
00:35:52,024 --> 00:35:54,626
And I was like, "Torrey,
I'm going to Jaws, bro.
772
00:35:54,660 --> 00:35:56,528
"Just come with me.
Let's do it."
773
00:35:56,561 --> 00:35:57,696
And I was like,"Well, all right,
774
00:35:57,729 --> 00:35:59,731
"well, let's just do it."I don't know. Who knows?
775
00:35:59,765 --> 00:36:01,432
Maybe there'll bea couple at Jaws.
776
00:36:17,516 --> 00:36:19,183
Yeah, this looks...
777
00:36:19,216 --> 00:36:22,486
It doesn't look like
there's any action, really.
778
00:36:22,521 --> 00:36:25,157
When we arrived,
it looked like it was dead
flat.
779
00:36:25,189 --> 00:36:27,659
And I was like,
"Oh my gosh, we have blown
it."
780
00:36:27,693 --> 00:36:30,394
I was ready in my
inflation suit, ready to go.
781
00:36:30,428 --> 00:36:31,730
There were no waves.
782
00:36:31,763 --> 00:36:33,665
Somebody was on the cliff.
783
00:36:33,699 --> 00:36:34,800
Had been there for a while.
784
00:36:34,833 --> 00:36:36,467
He saidhe hasn't seen any waves.
785
00:36:37,368 --> 00:36:38,904
The swell
hasn't arrived.
786
00:36:38,937 --> 00:36:40,471
Things don't look good.
787
00:36:42,339 --> 00:36:43,809
But in a replay of Mavericks,
788
00:36:43,842 --> 00:36:46,645
things suddenlystart to shift.
789
00:36:46,678 --> 00:36:48,513
One of the reallycool things about Jaws is
790
00:36:48,547 --> 00:36:50,414
when the...When the sets approaches,
791
00:36:50,448 --> 00:36:52,517
the lines stack upfrom the horizon.
792
00:36:52,551 --> 00:36:54,619
You just see,
looks like corduroy lines.
793
00:36:54,653 --> 00:36:56,121
They like, stack up big
794
00:36:59,457 --> 00:37:01,425
These lines just started,like marching,
795
00:37:01,459 --> 00:37:03,260
and they just unloadedand, like
796
00:37:03,294 --> 00:37:04,696
barreled across the reef.
797
00:37:06,698 --> 00:37:07,699
Oh my gosh, it's on.
798
00:37:07,733 --> 00:37:08,600
I was ready in my suit.
799
00:37:08,633 --> 00:37:10,401
I just startedrunning down the cliff,
800
00:37:10,434 --> 00:37:12,137
Torrey startedgetting ready.
801
00:37:27,152 --> 00:37:29,187
One of the mostterrifying things about Jaws
802
00:37:29,221 --> 00:37:30,555
is the rock jump.
803
00:37:30,589 --> 00:37:33,191
Uh, it's these bouldersdown there, that aregetting rolled
804
00:37:33,225 --> 00:37:35,193
by these surging waves.
805
00:37:35,227 --> 00:37:37,662
There's a massive shore break
that's exploding on the rocks,
806
00:37:37,696 --> 00:37:39,664
and you've got to
try to time it.
807
00:37:39,698 --> 00:37:40,732
When there's no sets,
808
00:37:40,766 --> 00:37:41,833
you've got to punch throughthis shore break
809
00:37:41,867 --> 00:37:44,669
and get into the deep water,into the channel.
810
00:37:44,703 --> 00:37:45,637
But if you time it wrong,
811
00:37:45,670 --> 00:37:47,539
you're getting slammedback on the rocks.
812
00:37:57,649 --> 00:37:58,683
Got through the shore break
813
00:37:58,717 --> 00:38:00,085
and I got outinto the lineup.
814
00:38:10,729 --> 00:38:12,063
My strategy was, kind of,
815
00:38:12,097 --> 00:38:14,666
to just waitfor one really good one.
816
00:38:14,699 --> 00:38:16,367
Try not to sit too close in
817
00:38:16,400 --> 00:38:17,536
because it felt like
there might be
818
00:38:17,569 --> 00:38:19,538
a few bigger ones
breaking further out.
819
00:38:20,705 --> 00:38:22,707
I looked over the edge,and it was steep,
820
00:38:22,741 --> 00:38:24,308
and I pulled back,and I had about
821
00:38:24,341 --> 00:38:25,442
four or five, I was like,
822
00:38:25,476 --> 00:38:26,745
"Damn, should have gonein that wave."
823
00:38:26,778 --> 00:38:28,379
Like, "That was a good one."
824
00:38:28,412 --> 00:38:29,313
Just kept pulling back.
825
00:38:29,346 --> 00:38:30,682
And then I saw this wave.
826
00:38:30,715 --> 00:38:32,684
I was like, "I'm going
on this thing, no matter
what."
827
00:38:37,556 --> 00:38:40,025
As the wave picks me up,I'm still with the thought...
828
00:38:40,058 --> 00:38:42,393
I'm still trying to claw myway down the wave face,
829
00:38:42,426 --> 00:38:44,229
even though it's gettingmore and more vertical.
830
00:38:47,799 --> 00:38:48,934
I jumped up and went down.
831
00:38:48,967 --> 00:38:51,203
And as I was going down,I was just suddenly like,
832
00:38:51,236 --> 00:38:54,172
"Wow, This wave is so windy,and so choppy."
833
00:38:54,206 --> 00:38:55,807
And I was like,trying to balance
834
00:38:55,841 --> 00:38:57,742
going overthese big wind chops.
835
00:38:57,776 --> 00:38:59,778
At the same time, I was tryingto get my line going,
836
00:38:59,811 --> 00:39:01,580
because the waveis going down the line.
837
00:39:01,613 --> 00:39:04,348
If the wave is running,there's this big wallahead of me.
838
00:39:05,917 --> 00:39:09,888
As I was bottom-turning,I could see the lipalready starting to fall.
839
00:39:09,921 --> 00:39:12,257
The only way I'm gonna make
this wave is to get under
the core.
840
00:39:22,267 --> 00:39:25,402
And I just pumped up enoughunder the roof of it,
841
00:39:25,436 --> 00:39:30,075
and, then, I was, like,in the bowl of this,like, beautiful, big wave.
842
00:39:30,108 --> 00:39:33,111
And then I came throughand down and made itinto the channel.
843
00:39:33,144 --> 00:39:34,679
I was, like, "Phew."
844
00:39:34,713 --> 00:39:36,781
Stoked.
845
00:39:39,150 --> 00:39:42,187
Every now and then,the sets would come infrom the west,
846
00:39:42,220 --> 00:39:44,155
and I could see, like,
way down the line
847
00:39:44,189 --> 00:39:47,025
up these big wallswrapping into it,
848
00:39:47,058 --> 00:39:50,328
where Torrey was,
and I could just see him
spinning and going.
849
00:39:53,665 --> 00:39:57,736
When Jaws is bigand windy, it's literallyalmost impossible
850
00:39:57,769 --> 00:39:59,671
to paddle intoa really big wave.
851
00:40:10,481 --> 00:40:11,850
Got a couple of good waves,
852
00:40:11,883 --> 00:40:14,418
and it was actually betterthan I thoughtit was going to be.
853
00:40:14,451 --> 00:40:15,987
So that was really nice.
854
00:40:19,291 --> 00:40:22,227
The fabled Mauiwinds start blowing evenharder,
855
00:40:22,260 --> 00:40:24,930
and the wiser course of actionis to exit.
856
00:40:24,963 --> 00:40:28,233
But Matt decideshe wants one more.
857
00:40:28,266 --> 00:40:31,269
We had a few greatwindy wavesout of, uh, Jaws.
858
00:40:31,303 --> 00:40:33,872
I kind of... I felt like Iwas really getting in thezone.
859
00:40:33,905 --> 00:40:36,675
And, then, I tried to send iton a pretty big oneout the back.
860
00:40:36,708 --> 00:40:41,379
And, as I was going downthe wave face,the chops were just sointense.
861
00:40:50,555 --> 00:40:54,592
Just bucked me off my board
and I had, like,
a pretty gnarly beatdown.
862
00:40:54,626 --> 00:40:58,296
I got up againover the fall, sent deep,I pulled my vest.
863
00:40:58,330 --> 00:41:02,033
The water safety guywe had organized,he came in and got me.
864
00:41:04,035 --> 00:41:06,037
The wind-whippedwipeout puts a period
865
00:41:06,071 --> 00:41:08,306
on the Jaws sessionfor Matt and Torrey.
866
00:41:12,210 --> 00:41:15,914
But, for Kai Lenny,homebound on Mauiwith his newborn twins,
867
00:41:15,947 --> 00:41:18,683
it gives him a momentto reflect on big wave riding
868
00:41:18,717 --> 00:41:23,288
and, then, head outand grab the tow ropefor a solo expression session.
869
00:41:23,321 --> 00:41:27,726
I have so muchthat I wanted to accomplishin big waves,
870
00:41:27,759 --> 00:41:30,128
and what better place
but in my backyard?
871
00:41:32,464 --> 00:41:34,733
Really, the scariest thingabout riding a big wave,
872
00:41:34,766 --> 00:41:39,671
and just as, as life is,you know, it's fearof the unknown.
873
00:41:39,704 --> 00:41:42,140
In order to overcome fear,you have to be able to faceit,
874
00:41:42,173 --> 00:41:44,943
and there's just, really,no other way to get around it.
875
00:41:44,976 --> 00:41:48,513
But facing it is, oftentimes,less scary
876
00:41:48,546 --> 00:41:51,816
than just thinking about it,
or leading up to it.
877
00:42:01,426 --> 00:42:06,197
Fear is, I think,the emotion that getsthe worst rap.
878
00:42:06,231 --> 00:42:09,367
But, at the same time,it's the most powerfulemotion.
879
00:42:09,401 --> 00:42:12,871
It's actually what helps yousurvive and overcome.
880
00:42:15,907 --> 00:42:17,675
'Cause it's not conscious,in a way.
881
00:42:17,709 --> 00:42:18,977
It's almosta subconscious thing,
882
00:42:19,010 --> 00:42:21,846
and it's about honing inthat fear
883
00:42:21,880 --> 00:42:23,848
and channeling itin the right direction.
884
00:42:23,882 --> 00:42:25,316
You can let it eat you up,
885
00:42:25,350 --> 00:42:28,987
or you can let it take youto the highest of places.
886
00:42:43,536 --> 00:42:45,603
When you're on the wave,everything goes quiet.
887
00:42:45,637 --> 00:42:48,973
You're at, probably,in that moment,the loudest place on earth.
888
00:42:49,007 --> 00:42:50,175
Waves are exploding.
889
00:42:50,208 --> 00:42:53,512
People are screamingon the cliff.
890
00:42:53,546 --> 00:42:57,649
All of sudden,it's just pure quiet,and it's this blissfulness.
891
00:43:11,262 --> 00:43:14,032
While Kai slips insessions between diaper duty
892
00:43:14,065 --> 00:43:16,134
for Matt and Torrey,it's another flight.
893
00:43:17,469 --> 00:43:19,003
This time, back to Oahu,
894
00:43:19,037 --> 00:43:21,639
where a new swellpromises to bring
895
00:43:21,673 --> 00:43:25,443
what might bethe most dangerous waveon Earth to life,
896
00:43:25,910 --> 00:43:27,045
Pipeline.
897
00:43:31,416 --> 00:43:33,751
One thing is for sure,the vibe will not be
898
00:43:33,785 --> 00:43:35,554
the welcoming communityat Mavericks,
899
00:43:35,588 --> 00:43:39,757
or the nearly empty,windblown lineup at Jaws.
900
00:43:39,791 --> 00:43:42,494
Torrey enjoysheavy local statusto help him get waves
901
00:43:42,528 --> 00:43:45,430
in this cutthroatcompetitive arena,
902
00:43:45,463 --> 00:43:49,434
but Matt is gonnahave to play politicsto get his.
903
00:43:49,467 --> 00:43:51,436
If you takethe wrong wave out there,
904
00:43:51,469 --> 00:43:53,404
if you drop inon the wrong person,
905
00:43:53,438 --> 00:43:56,609
even looking at the wrong
wave, you can get beaten up.
You can get sent in.
906
00:43:59,410 --> 00:44:01,514
Pipeline may notbreak the biggest,
907
00:44:01,547 --> 00:44:04,182
but if you measure wavesin increments of fear,
908
00:44:04,215 --> 00:44:06,117
it's at the top of the chain,
909
00:44:06,151 --> 00:44:10,388
having claimed many liveson the shallow lava reef.
910
00:44:10,421 --> 00:44:13,958
I feel like in a wave like
Jaws, you can prepare
for the hold-down.
911
00:44:13,992 --> 00:44:15,528
You're in deep water.
912
00:44:15,561 --> 00:44:17,862
When that wave crashesover you, it's pushing youdown into the depths,
913
00:44:17,896 --> 00:44:20,465
which is most people'sworst nightmare.
914
00:44:20,498 --> 00:44:24,035
But, if you're preparedfor that hold-down,you're gonna survive it,
915
00:44:24,068 --> 00:44:26,171
whereas, if you go to a wave
like Pipeline,
916
00:44:26,204 --> 00:44:28,106
sure, it's, like,
a lot smaller,
917
00:44:28,139 --> 00:44:30,275
but it's breakingin extremely shallow,
918
00:44:30,308 --> 00:44:32,243
uh, over shallow lava rock.
919
00:44:32,277 --> 00:44:35,880
And you can do everythingin your control to be safe
920
00:44:35,914 --> 00:44:38,183
and to try to catch
the right wave,
921
00:44:38,216 --> 00:44:41,853
but that wave is slamming youinto the reef, if you're inthe wrong place.
922
00:44:41,886 --> 00:44:45,723
There's so much energythat's converginginto a very small area.
923
00:44:45,757 --> 00:44:49,060
The reef is very uneven,making the wave walk,and refract,
924
00:44:49,093 --> 00:44:52,430
and changein different directions.It's extremely unpredictable.
925
00:44:52,463 --> 00:44:54,966
And, if you fallin the wrong place,
926
00:44:54,999 --> 00:44:57,101
that wave is driving youso hard into the reef.
927
00:44:57,135 --> 00:45:01,372
So no amount of preparationcan really help you to
928
00:45:02,473 --> 00:45:03,841
be safer out there.
929
00:45:03,875 --> 00:45:05,544
If you go on the wrong wave,and it pushes youinto the reef,
930
00:45:05,578 --> 00:45:07,011
you're gonna bein serious trouble.
931
00:45:07,045 --> 00:45:10,683
If you're going head first,you can get knocked outunconscious,
932
00:45:10,715 --> 00:45:12,551
like, very, very easily.
933
00:45:12,585 --> 00:45:14,919
Pipeline is definitelythe most dangerous wavein the world.
934
00:45:14,953 --> 00:45:19,558
And I feel just as much fear
out of Pipeline that I do
surfing a wave like Jaws.
935
00:45:45,684 --> 00:45:48,786
For Matt,this is a uniquelychallenging spot,
936
00:45:48,820 --> 00:45:53,958
dealing with a combinationof danger, and huntingfor a wave amongst thelocals.
937
00:45:53,992 --> 00:45:56,894
It was a little bitof an uphill battle,again, in the crowd.
938
00:45:56,928 --> 00:46:01,567
The waves were really good,but it was a struggleto get waves.
939
00:46:05,903 --> 00:46:09,040
When you surf a wave
that's that intense,
time slows down.
940
00:46:09,742 --> 00:46:11,209
All your senses come alive.
941
00:46:11,242 --> 00:46:13,712
Everything is intensifiedfrom when you're paddlinginto the wave,
942
00:46:13,746 --> 00:46:16,214
you're looking over the edgeand it's past vertical,
943
00:46:16,247 --> 00:46:18,116
and you can see the watersucking off the reef,
944
00:46:18,149 --> 00:46:19,917
the bottom of the wavedrops away, and the,
945
00:46:19,951 --> 00:46:24,623
and the top just curls over,making this huge roomthat you're inside of.
946
00:46:27,025 --> 00:46:29,628
Only have, like,two or three secondsinside that chamber,
947
00:46:29,662 --> 00:46:31,362
but it feels...It's one of the best feelings
948
00:46:31,396 --> 00:46:33,164
you can havein the whole world.
949
00:46:33,197 --> 00:46:36,367
Looking fora classic Pipe left,battling the crowd,
950
00:46:36,401 --> 00:46:39,137
and knowing the hungry reefis waiting underneath,
951
00:46:39,170 --> 00:46:43,808
Matt finds himselfdealing with some unusualcrosstown traffic.
952
00:46:43,841 --> 00:46:46,679
As I was paddling,
I was shouting
all the crew off down the
line.
953
00:46:46,712 --> 00:46:48,913
"Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa!
I'm going! I'm going!"
954
00:46:48,946 --> 00:46:51,750
And it's really steep,so you, kind of,have to be focused
955
00:46:51,784 --> 00:46:53,084
on, like, on your take off.
956
00:46:53,117 --> 00:46:55,253
But, out the corner
of my eye, I could see
this bodyboarder.
957
00:46:55,286 --> 00:46:57,188
He was looking very interested
in my wave.
958
00:46:57,221 --> 00:47:01,025
As I'm dropping in,I see out the cornerof my eye, he's going.
959
00:47:01,059 --> 00:47:02,093
And I was, like, "Whoa!"
960
00:47:02,126 --> 00:47:03,629
I shouted, "Whoa, whoa!"
961
00:47:03,662 --> 00:47:06,164
I pulled up into this
big barrel behind him.
962
00:47:06,197 --> 00:47:10,301
He, like, almost aired overme, and I, I rode throughhis foam trail
963
00:47:10,335 --> 00:47:12,805
and, then,was in this beautiful,big barrel.
964
00:47:12,837 --> 00:47:16,240
And he was ridingin front of it,just in front of me.
965
00:47:16,274 --> 00:47:19,611
I shot out of the barreland he was tryingto turn off the wave.
966
00:47:19,645 --> 00:47:21,446
I don't thinkhe'd even seen me.
967
00:47:23,749 --> 00:47:27,619
I was, like, "Oh, at least
we both made the wave.
We were safe."
968
00:47:29,354 --> 00:47:31,222
And, then,some of the photographers,they were, like,
969
00:47:31,255 --> 00:47:35,226
"Hey, dude,
that was so dangerous, man."
And, then, they sent him in.
970
00:47:35,259 --> 00:47:38,630
So, on my behalf,
he got sent in.
971
00:47:38,664 --> 00:47:42,568
While localismhas its downsides,sometimes, harsh crowd control
972
00:47:42,601 --> 00:47:46,772
also provides safetyin life-threateningsituations.
973
00:47:52,910 --> 00:47:55,146
Pipeline's the left,Backdoor's the right.
974
00:47:55,179 --> 00:47:59,951
And, my whole life,I've always been obsessedwith Backdoor.
975
00:47:59,984 --> 00:48:01,452
It depends on who you ask.
976
00:48:01,486 --> 00:48:04,623
A lot of people will tell youit's sketchier than Pipe.
977
00:48:04,656 --> 00:48:05,858
Maybe not as perfect.
978
00:48:14,232 --> 00:48:16,869
For me, I would say,it's more of a challenge.
979
00:48:43,327 --> 00:48:45,296
I don't know if I'd callmyself a heavy local.
980
00:48:45,329 --> 00:48:50,669
I think I just...I'm super passionateabout the wave that I want.
981
00:48:50,702 --> 00:48:54,138
I think the wave that I wantis this really big,doubled-up thing
982
00:48:54,172 --> 00:48:56,542
that doesn't look likethe best wave,
983
00:48:56,575 --> 00:49:00,344
and, as soon asyou second-guess it,it's, kind of, gone.
984
00:49:13,424 --> 00:49:15,159
Consistently being good,day after day,
985
00:49:15,193 --> 00:49:19,330
I would say, this isone of the best yearsI've seen in the Pipeline.
986
00:49:25,336 --> 00:49:27,405
It was really niceto travel with Bromley.
987
00:49:27,438 --> 00:49:29,240
That was definitely oneof my highlights of the year,
988
00:49:29,273 --> 00:49:31,142
was going on some surf tripswith him,
989
00:49:31,175 --> 00:49:34,947
and just have some good timeswith him, and get him hookedon country music, you know?
990
00:49:34,979 --> 00:49:37,381
I appreciate that.
991
00:49:40,017 --> 00:49:43,221
All we listened to, all day,
everyday in his car
was Western music,
992
00:49:43,254 --> 00:49:45,591
and I don't really like
Western music.
993
00:49:46,959 --> 00:49:50,394
Torrey is one of the most
polite and humble surfers that
I know.
994
00:49:50,428 --> 00:49:52,196
He's such a nice guy.
995
00:49:52,230 --> 00:49:54,967
And one of the reasons
why I just love cruising
with him, we get on super
well.
996
00:49:54,999 --> 00:49:57,268
Chasing the swell together
was the first time we, like,
997
00:49:57,301 --> 00:50:00,906
properly connected,
and got to hang out, like,
day after day.
998
00:50:00,939 --> 00:50:04,676
And he's such a legendand he's an incrediblesurfer.
999
00:50:06,612 --> 00:50:11,984
For Matt, it wastime to head back hometo his family in South Africa.
1000
00:50:12,016 --> 00:50:16,822
I can't waitto get home to my babyand to my wife, and
1001
00:50:16,855 --> 00:50:19,490
yeah, reset and get readyfor the next swell.
1002
00:50:24,863 --> 00:50:26,598
At Pipeline,one of the locals
1003
00:50:26,632 --> 00:50:30,002
who usually gets the waveshe wants, is Makua Rothman,
1004
00:50:30,034 --> 00:50:32,336
who grew up onthe North Shore.
1005
00:50:32,370 --> 00:50:36,073
But where he really madehis mark is back at Jawson Maui,
1006
00:50:36,107 --> 00:50:40,044
having launched his careerin 2003 as a 17-year-old,
1007
00:50:40,077 --> 00:50:44,750
winning the XXL Big Waveawards with a 66-foot ride.
1008
00:50:46,885 --> 00:50:49,521
And then, last year,topping thatby getting towed into
1009
00:50:49,555 --> 00:50:51,957
one of the largest wavesever ridden.
1010
00:50:54,458 --> 00:50:57,295
Some say the faceapproached 100 feet,
1011
00:50:57,328 --> 00:50:58,931
though he's not claiming it,and only says,
1012
00:50:58,964 --> 00:51:02,601
"Let the ride and wavespeak for themselves."
1013
00:51:05,904 --> 00:51:08,907
This season,while certainly nothanging up his trunks,
1014
00:51:08,941 --> 00:51:14,846
Makua decided to runfor City Counciland put his focus onpolitics.
1015
00:51:14,880 --> 00:51:18,584
But he's also aboutkeeping the spirit of Alohaalive globally,
1016
00:51:18,617 --> 00:51:20,886
which led himto an extraordinarysurf session
1017
00:51:20,919 --> 00:51:23,789
about as far awayas you can get from big waves.
1018
00:51:30,361 --> 00:51:32,163
A wave pool in Austin, Texas,
1019
00:51:32,196 --> 00:51:35,601
sharing the stokewith two championsof other sports.
1020
00:51:37,401 --> 00:51:39,938
Honestly,when I surf hereand I catch a wave,
1021
00:51:39,972 --> 00:51:43,809
I don't think
that I am in a pool
in the middle of Waco, Texas.
1022
00:51:43,842 --> 00:51:46,044
I'm on a wave surfing,regardless of what it is.
1023
00:51:46,078 --> 00:51:50,381
And, you know, technologyhas, you know, given all of us
1024
00:51:50,414 --> 00:51:53,952
the ability to surf, you know,anywhere on Planet Earth now.
1025
00:51:58,023 --> 00:51:59,958
Once you get on that wave,you're not thinkingyou're in a pool, right?
1026
00:51:59,992 --> 00:52:01,727
You're on a wavegetting barreled.
1027
00:52:01,760 --> 00:52:03,127
It's like you're at Uluwatuor whatever.
1028
00:52:03,160 --> 00:52:05,496
- I think, it's also the people
you're around as well.
Yes.
1029
00:52:05,530 --> 00:52:08,900
Yeah, the camaraderie,
like, the, the group
you bring to the pool, as
well.
1030
00:52:08,934 --> 00:52:10,769
-Yes.
-You know,
people you've come with.
1031
00:52:10,802 --> 00:52:12,169
The, the, the,
1032
00:52:12,203 --> 00:52:14,840
you know, you've always
gotta surround yourself
with good people.
1033
00:52:16,975 --> 00:52:20,444
Makua threw downa super fun sessionat BSR's wave pool
1034
00:52:20,478 --> 00:52:24,049
with none otherthan Formula Oneseven-time world champion,
1035
00:52:24,082 --> 00:52:25,550
Lewis Hamilton,
1036
00:52:25,584 --> 00:52:28,587
and four-time Supercrossmotocross title holder,Dylan Ferrandis,
1037
00:52:28,620 --> 00:52:33,058
a fun break from politicsand the even harsher realitiesof big waves.
1038
00:52:35,594 --> 00:52:37,896
Oh, Lewiswas charging today.
1039
00:52:37,929 --> 00:52:41,867
He was, uh, stepping it up
to the next level.
They both were.
1040
00:52:47,438 --> 00:52:49,206
It doesn't matter what I didin this pool.
1041
00:52:49,240 --> 00:52:51,877
Like, I could have done
a move I've never done before,
1042
00:52:51,910 --> 00:52:54,079
and it wouldn't make me
as happy as watching
you two guys
1043
00:52:54,112 --> 00:52:56,715
come out of the barrel
with your hands up,
"Yeah!"
1044
00:52:56,748 --> 00:52:58,083
Like, that's what makes me
feel good.
1045
00:52:58,116 --> 00:53:00,686
That's the kind of stuffthat I really enjoyabout surfing,
1046
00:53:00,719 --> 00:53:03,287
because I know that surfingcan bring the world together.
1047
00:53:12,698 --> 00:53:14,265
Whilethe North Shore pumps,
1048
00:53:14,298 --> 00:53:16,835
Bianca Valenti chargesan outer reef.
1049
00:53:16,868 --> 00:53:20,138
She is among the eliteof the growing numberof women worldwide
1050
00:53:20,172 --> 00:53:21,940
taking on big waves,
1051
00:53:21,973 --> 00:53:24,843
joining the ranks of thelikes of Keala Kennelly,
1052
00:53:24,876 --> 00:53:27,344
who has never found a dropshe won't attempt,
1053
00:53:27,378 --> 00:53:31,149
and Justine Dupont,who made historyat Jaws last winter
1054
00:53:31,183 --> 00:53:33,350
with an epic barrel.
1055
00:53:33,384 --> 00:53:36,555
But her home breakis the fabledand feared Mavericks.
1056
00:53:38,857 --> 00:53:41,159
An extension of the embracingnature of Mavericks
1057
00:53:41,193 --> 00:53:43,829
is how women have becomeaccepted in the lineup.
1058
00:53:43,862 --> 00:53:45,130
It wasn't always this way,
1059
00:53:45,163 --> 00:53:48,365
going back to the pioneering female surfer, SarahGerhardt,
1060
00:53:48,399 --> 00:53:51,169
the first femaleto charge the wave.
1061
00:53:51,203 --> 00:53:56,541
I was born in LA
and, then, grew up
in Dana Point.
1062
00:53:56,575 --> 00:54:00,478
Learned how to surfat Doheny Beach therewhen I was seven.
1063
00:54:03,115 --> 00:54:06,017
Then, I got into big waves
at UC Santa Barbara.
1064
00:54:06,051 --> 00:54:10,655
I decided I wanted to live
in San Francisco
after I graduated.
1065
00:54:12,958 --> 00:54:16,828
Started surfing Mavericks.The first time I surfed,it was in 2012.
1066
00:54:19,865 --> 00:54:23,201
Every single time,
there's a really special day
out there.
1067
00:54:23,235 --> 00:54:26,138
I want to be out there.I want to be fully present,fully ready,
1068
00:54:26,171 --> 00:54:27,739
because every single second,
1069
00:54:27,773 --> 00:54:30,142
every single wave,every single session outthere,
1070
00:54:30,175 --> 00:54:32,844
it's so amazing, anddifferent, and special.
1071
00:54:34,846 --> 00:54:36,615
You know, you havethese experiences
1072
00:54:36,648 --> 00:54:40,218
where you see your lifeflash before your eyes.
1073
00:54:40,252 --> 00:54:45,190
It's an amazing placewhere you can learna lot about yourself.
1074
00:54:45,223 --> 00:54:47,526
Mavericks Surf Awards
was a super fun event.
1075
00:54:47,559 --> 00:54:52,964
I think, like, 300 or 400
people showed up at Old
Princeton Landing the other
night.
1076
00:54:52,998 --> 00:54:55,901
There was just a lot of love,
and it's so nice
to come together
1077
00:54:55,934 --> 00:54:58,170
with community,
in celebration of the wave,
1078
00:54:58,203 --> 00:55:00,806
because it issuch a special place.
1079
00:55:00,839 --> 00:55:02,240
There werethree men's categories,
1080
00:55:02,274 --> 00:55:05,376
three women's categories,equal prize money.
1081
00:55:05,409 --> 00:55:09,514
Winning three awards,actually, yeah, that waspretty cool to get, you know,
1082
00:55:09,548 --> 00:55:12,184
acknowledgement for all thathard work.
1083
00:55:18,857 --> 00:55:21,593
Today,Bianca finds herselfin the lineup,
1084
00:55:21,626 --> 00:55:24,796
having earned the ultimatecompliment, respect.
1085
00:55:24,830 --> 00:55:27,732
And she gets her wavesand has built a life andcareer
1086
00:55:27,766 --> 00:55:30,401
as a pioneering femalebig wave surfer.
1087
00:55:30,434 --> 00:55:33,638
So awesome,this season, seeing more womenin the water,
1088
00:55:33,672 --> 00:55:35,574
especially in Hawaii,and here, too,
1089
00:55:35,607 --> 00:55:38,677
and to have the guys
cheering us on so much.
1090
00:55:38,710 --> 00:55:41,012
It's been funto be a part of this,
1091
00:55:41,046 --> 00:55:44,182
this movement that really hasso much momentum right now.
1092
00:55:49,420 --> 00:55:51,690
With his surf buddy,Matt Bromley, gone,
1093
00:55:51,723 --> 00:55:53,291
and the waves looking flat,
1094
00:55:53,325 --> 00:55:55,827
Torrey has another wayto get his required doseof adrenaline
1095
00:55:55,861 --> 00:55:57,361
outside of the ocean.
1096
00:56:02,734 --> 00:56:06,338
Something that I doon the side to, kind of,get the adrenaline rush
1097
00:56:06,370 --> 00:56:07,873
is pit bull riding.
1098
00:56:09,708 --> 00:56:12,476
My whole family'sfrom Texas, so,
1099
00:56:12,510 --> 00:56:17,916
I don't know, I kind of grewup watching the PBRand been super in love with,
1100
00:56:17,949 --> 00:56:21,987
you know, country musicand the western way of life.
1101
00:56:22,020 --> 00:56:23,555
Surfingand big wave riding
1102
00:56:23,588 --> 00:56:25,924
may be part of the fabricof Hawaii,
1103
00:56:25,957 --> 00:56:30,328
but it also has 150 yearsof history of Hawaiiancowboys.
1104
00:56:30,362 --> 00:56:33,365
They call them paniolos.
1105
00:56:33,397 --> 00:56:36,902
They have, like,
a really cool rodeo scene
over here in Hawaii.
1106
00:56:38,703 --> 00:56:41,773
For me, I think, it's kind ofthe coolest,the best of both worlds,
1107
00:56:41,806 --> 00:56:44,943
'cause you got, you know,some of the best surfin the world,
1108
00:56:44,976 --> 00:56:47,279
and, then, you can go get onsome horses and bulls, too.
1109
00:56:47,312 --> 00:56:50,148
So it's really specialthat we have that in Hawaii.
1110
00:56:50,181 --> 00:56:53,484
You get that full, like,Aloha Hawaiian spirit aswell,
1111
00:56:53,518 --> 00:56:58,489
with, like, the cowboy spirit,
too, you know, kind of mixed
in with these guys.
1112
00:57:01,059 --> 00:57:04,663
Getting on a bullis completely out ofmy element, you know.
1113
00:57:04,696 --> 00:57:08,166
It's, it's the scariest thingever to me.
1114
00:57:13,271 --> 00:57:15,140
It's a little bit differentthan big wave surfing,you know?
1115
00:57:15,173 --> 00:57:17,242
When you're out in the water,then you can
1116
00:57:17,275 --> 00:57:19,210
kind of chooseto go on the wave or not.
1117
00:57:19,244 --> 00:57:21,179
When you're on the bull,you know, you're committed.
1118
00:57:24,916 --> 00:57:28,954
Obviously, I know a lot moreabout riding a wave than I doabout riding a bull.
1119
00:57:28,987 --> 00:57:31,623
So, yeah, I'm pretty quietwhen I,
1120
00:57:31,656 --> 00:57:33,959
when I'm, you know,
getting in the chute.
1121
00:57:36,194 --> 00:57:38,063
On a rainy nighton the North Shore,
1122
00:57:38,096 --> 00:57:42,133
Torrey tests himselfagainst 1,500-poundangry bulls.
1123
00:57:48,440 --> 00:57:49,541
Stay. Hold on.
1124
00:57:51,943 --> 00:57:54,612
Stay with him.
Drop your legs.
Drop your legs.
1125
00:57:54,646 --> 00:57:56,348
- You okay?
- Yeah.
1126
00:57:56,381 --> 00:57:58,883
You know, feelingthe power of that bullwhen you're getting on it.
1127
00:57:58,917 --> 00:58:01,353
And, like,you're in the chute, and...
1128
00:58:01,386 --> 00:58:04,022
When you nod your head to go,
1129
00:58:04,055 --> 00:58:06,925
and you don't really know
what's gonna happen,
1130
00:58:06,958 --> 00:58:09,561
it's kind of the greatest
feeling ever for me.
1131
00:58:09,594 --> 00:58:10,762
And, um,
1132
00:58:10,795 --> 00:58:13,898
I became super attracted
to that feeling.
1133
00:58:34,019 --> 00:58:35,754
Yeah, don't do that.
1134
00:58:35,787 --> 00:58:37,222
Yeah, drop your legs.
1135
00:59:13,892 --> 00:59:14,893
Throughoutthe evening,
1136
00:59:14,926 --> 00:59:17,362
Torrey chooses to nod his headfive times.
1137
00:59:17,395 --> 00:59:19,697
He may not have riddenthe fabled eight seconds,
1138
00:59:19,731 --> 00:59:23,401
but faced anotherside of fear, then,ended the night unscathed,
1139
00:59:23,435 --> 00:59:27,806
and with as big a smileon his face as a killerbig wave surf session.
1140
00:59:31,876 --> 00:59:33,912
The winter is winding down,
1141
00:59:35,914 --> 00:59:40,218
but forecaster Mark Sponslersees something veryinteresting pop up.
1142
00:59:41,554 --> 00:59:44,722
Not for Hawaii, but overon the North Atlantic
1143
00:59:44,756 --> 00:59:46,724
and aimed at Nazare, Portugal.
1144
00:59:46,758 --> 00:59:49,794
It's good newsfor big wave-hungryNic Von Rupp,
1145
00:59:49,828 --> 00:59:54,232
but also nerve-wrackingas he's still recoveringfrom an early season injury.
1146
00:59:54,265 --> 00:59:56,968
It's the end of the season.
I bruised my ribs really hard.
1147
00:59:57,001 --> 00:59:58,970
And I was supposed to beout of the water for a while,you know?
1148
00:59:59,003 --> 01:00:02,140
Like, I was... I thoughtthat was it. But, then,this swell popped up.
1149
01:00:03,708 --> 01:00:09,047
That swell at Nazare,
a lot of it was the north
angle and the
1150
01:00:09,080 --> 01:00:12,050
intensity of the storm,
and the duration of it.
1151
01:00:12,083 --> 01:00:15,554
All that just radiatingand focusingright on Nazare.
1152
01:00:17,255 --> 01:00:19,558
The swellis particularly ominous,
1153
01:00:19,592 --> 01:00:23,596
and Sponsler is callingfor somethingthat could be historic.
1154
01:00:24,729 --> 01:00:26,532
Going againsthis doctor's advice,
1155
01:00:26,565 --> 01:00:30,201
Nic goes intofull-preparation modethe day before the swell.
1156
01:00:33,805 --> 01:00:36,575
Surfing big wavesis an emotional rollercoaster, you know?
1157
01:00:36,609 --> 01:00:38,143
Like, obviously,like, when the swell pops up,
1158
01:00:38,176 --> 01:00:41,713
there's excitement, you know?Like, "Oh, my God,it's gonna happen."
1159
01:00:41,746 --> 01:00:45,049
Then, the media
start hyping it up, like,
"It's the biggest swell ever!"
1160
01:00:45,083 --> 01:00:46,251
And, then,
fear starts kicking in.
1161
01:00:46,284 --> 01:00:48,554
And you're, like,
"Oh, my God,
the biggest swell ever?"
1162
01:00:48,587 --> 01:00:50,455
I mean, I've already seen it,
the biggest ever,
1163
01:00:50,488 --> 01:00:53,057
and it was scary, you know?
Like, how can I imagine
it bigger?
1164
01:00:53,091 --> 01:00:55,093
Like, everything
starts kicking in, you know?
1165
01:00:55,126 --> 01:00:57,262
And, then, obviously, you,
like, calm down.
1166
01:00:57,295 --> 01:01:01,567
You start focusing,
preparing, start calling up
your team.
1167
01:01:01,600 --> 01:01:04,637
The safety teammeeting takes placein the harbor.
1168
01:01:04,669 --> 01:01:08,039
There is no margin for error.
1169
01:01:08,072 --> 01:01:12,477
On days like this, when it's,
when it's supposed to be
absolutely huge...
1170
01:01:12,511 --> 01:01:14,145
Like, we had a huge swell
on January 8th.
1171
01:01:14,179 --> 01:01:15,847
It was really big
and everything went wrong.
1172
01:01:15,880 --> 01:01:19,884
So, this swell, it wassupposed to be even bigger,and we doubled up on safety.
1173
01:01:19,918 --> 01:01:23,556
So instead of everyone doingtheir own kind of little,uh...
1174
01:01:23,589 --> 01:01:25,823
tow teams, you know,of three people,
1175
01:01:25,857 --> 01:01:28,993
we create a huge
10-people team, you know?
1176
01:01:30,995 --> 01:01:32,430
It's really a team effort.
1177
01:01:32,463 --> 01:01:37,435
Everyone needs
to be synchronized,
committed, focused.
1178
01:01:37,468 --> 01:01:39,737
There's no room for mistakes,
you know?
1179
01:01:39,771 --> 01:01:41,973
It's just, like, mistakes,
1180
01:01:42,740 --> 01:01:44,475
is ending up on the rocks.
1181
01:01:48,146 --> 01:01:50,715
The dangersof Nazare are real.
1182
01:01:50,748 --> 01:01:52,150
From being smashedin the rocks
1183
01:01:52,183 --> 01:01:54,385
to crushed in the poundingshore break,
1184
01:01:54,419 --> 01:01:58,591
it's easy for thingsto go very wrongwith real consequences.
1185
01:01:58,624 --> 01:02:01,926
The special thingabout Nazare is its canyon,you know?
1186
01:02:01,960 --> 01:02:04,530
It's, it's unique.It's like a world wonder.
1187
01:02:04,563 --> 01:02:08,601
It's one of the deepest
canyons in the world, and the
way you can compare it,
1188
01:02:08,634 --> 01:02:10,536
is to the Grand Canyon.
1189
01:02:10,569 --> 01:02:14,005
Basically, it just catchesthe swell in the middleof the ocean.
1190
01:02:14,038 --> 01:02:16,074
So the swell's coming infrom the Atlantic.
1191
01:02:16,107 --> 01:02:19,744
And what it does,
all that energy
just compresses
1192
01:02:19,777 --> 01:02:25,083
to the depth of that canyon,
and just shoots up
with all its strength
1193
01:02:25,116 --> 01:02:26,951
straight at the
beach, you know?
1194
01:02:26,985 --> 01:02:29,254
And, and, then, when it hits
that shallow part,
1195
01:02:29,287 --> 01:02:32,625
the wave just, like,
stands up, you know?
1196
01:02:32,658 --> 01:02:35,260
And that's how you get
that mountain of water,
you know?
1197
01:02:59,350 --> 01:03:04,155
We've been talking
since 6, 6:30 a.m.
with the team
1198
01:03:04,422 --> 01:03:05,857
and...
1199
01:03:05,890 --> 01:03:07,626
Lucas said it's huge.
1200
01:03:08,893 --> 01:03:10,763
Windy.
1201
01:03:10,795 --> 01:03:12,698
And clean.
1202
01:03:12,731 --> 01:03:14,999
Let's wait.
1203
01:03:15,033 --> 01:03:18,236
I don't know, we might see
that first 100 ft wave,
we might not.
1204
01:03:22,574 --> 01:03:23,808
There was definitelya hiccup in the morning.
1205
01:03:23,841 --> 01:03:27,845
I mean, I figured outmy vest had a hole.
1206
01:03:27,879 --> 01:03:30,649
And you don't want your vestthat saves your life,
1207
01:03:30,683 --> 01:03:32,350
to have a hole, to be leaking,you know?
1208
01:03:32,383 --> 01:03:34,152
You don't wanna bethinking about that,you know?
1209
01:03:34,185 --> 01:03:36,421
Like, you wanna to be100% focused
1210
01:03:36,454 --> 01:03:38,289
and be trustingyour equipment.
1211
01:03:42,160 --> 01:03:45,698
My vest had a hole,
someone took my fins...
1212
01:03:47,599 --> 01:03:49,367
and, all of a sudden,I'm just, like, "Yo, no."
1213
01:03:49,400 --> 01:03:51,235
I wasn't under controlof the whole situation,you know?
1214
01:03:51,269 --> 01:03:56,608
And when you're puttingyour life at risk like that,you want to be 100% incontrol.
1215
01:03:58,076 --> 01:04:00,311
A variety of bigwave surfers have arrived
1216
01:04:00,345 --> 01:04:02,748
from across the globeto challenge the waves,
1217
01:04:02,781 --> 01:04:06,050
including Brazilian chargerMichaela Fregonese,
1218
01:04:06,084 --> 01:04:08,620
whose young sonwaits nervously back home.
1219
01:04:09,187 --> 01:04:10,488
He's scared, you know?
1220
01:04:10,522 --> 01:04:13,559
He scared to lose me,
that's why.
1221
01:04:13,592 --> 01:04:18,329
Because do you knowhow danger is, so...
1222
01:04:18,363 --> 01:04:19,665
Wait a second.
This is dangerous?
1223
01:04:19,698 --> 01:04:23,167
Oh, yeah!
Super dangerous. Yeah.
1224
01:04:24,202 --> 01:04:26,404
I don't rush because I know...
1225
01:04:26,437 --> 01:04:30,509
anyway, that Godis gonna be, like...
1226
01:04:30,542 --> 01:04:35,113
my best wave.Like, the biggest waveof my life, for sure, today.
1227
01:04:35,146 --> 01:04:38,784
I was praying not only for me,
but for all.
1228
01:04:38,817 --> 01:04:40,318
For all the people here.
1229
01:04:40,351 --> 01:04:43,254
Because, if nobody hurts,
1230
01:04:43,287 --> 01:04:45,022
you feeling more confident,
you know?
1231
01:04:45,056 --> 01:04:48,694
- If you were hurt...
- It's scary, you know?
1232
01:04:48,727 --> 01:04:52,397
If nobody hurt,everybody happy,everybody get the bomb,
1233
01:04:52,430 --> 01:04:53,931
everything's gonna be okay.
1234
01:04:53,965 --> 01:04:56,668
So I pray for everyonehere today.
1235
01:04:56,702 --> 01:04:59,370
One of the surfershere is Vini Dos Santos,
1236
01:04:59,404 --> 01:05:00,938
32, from Brazil.
1237
01:05:00,972 --> 01:05:04,843
He's famed for catchingone of the biggestpaddle-in waves at Nazare.
1238
01:05:04,877 --> 01:05:08,079
But now he's determinedto make his markby picking up the rope
1239
01:05:08,112 --> 01:05:12,283
and hunting down a monster,and making his markon the global stage.
1240
01:05:24,495 --> 01:05:27,833
You know, I hadsome issues in the morning.The vest, the fins.
1241
01:05:27,866 --> 01:05:30,368
But, you know, like,we're cowboysat the end of the day
1242
01:05:30,401 --> 01:05:31,936
and we just make it happen,you know?
1243
01:05:31,969 --> 01:05:35,373
Like, so my buddylended me a vest,my buddy lended me some fins.
1244
01:05:37,108 --> 01:05:38,777
-That one is gonna be
a buoy?
-That one's gonna be, uh...
1245
01:05:38,811 --> 01:05:41,012
-Okay, who's gonna go
on that one?
-The... the other guy...
1246
01:05:41,045 --> 01:05:44,415
For me, what really matters
is the team spirit
and, obviously, commitment.
1247
01:05:44,449 --> 01:05:45,818
You wanna be outthere all day.
1248
01:05:45,851 --> 01:05:47,485
You want to catch...You want to surf big waves.
1249
01:05:47,519 --> 01:05:49,822
You want to makethe most of this.
1250
01:05:49,855 --> 01:05:51,389
Go prepare.
1251
01:05:55,993 --> 01:06:00,431
When I get on my jet ski,it's... That's when I, like,feel connected.
1252
01:06:00,465 --> 01:06:02,768
It's like an extensionof my body, you know?
1253
01:06:02,801 --> 01:06:06,103
I can... I just feelthat adrenaline.
1254
01:06:06,137 --> 01:06:09,207
It's like going to war,you know? It's preparing,like, going to war.
1255
01:06:30,995 --> 01:06:33,364
When the surfcomes into their sights,
1256
01:06:33,397 --> 01:06:36,200
Sponsler's forecastis proven accurate.
1257
01:06:36,234 --> 01:06:37,268
It's big.
1258
01:06:37,301 --> 01:06:40,539
The only question is,is it historically big?
1259
01:06:42,473 --> 01:06:47,178
Big wave surfingreally relates to the dailyactivity of anyone.
1260
01:06:47,211 --> 01:06:48,012
Everyone has dreams.
1261
01:06:48,045 --> 01:06:49,648
Everyone is afraidof the dreams.
1262
01:06:49,681 --> 01:06:53,117
And a lot of peopleare not able to achievetheir dreams because of fear,
1263
01:06:53,150 --> 01:06:54,185
gets in the middle of it.
1264
01:06:54,218 --> 01:06:55,854
It's exactly the same way,big wave surfing.
1265
01:06:55,888 --> 01:06:59,190
I have the dream.I have the dream of surfingthe biggest wave of my life.
1266
01:06:59,223 --> 01:07:01,793
I'm afraid of it,of what can happen.
1267
01:07:04,530 --> 01:07:09,433
My boyfriend,
Nick Von Rupp, he's a surfer,
a big wave surfer.
1268
01:07:09,467 --> 01:07:13,539
I just have to keep believingthat everythingwill be fine, because...
1269
01:07:15,239 --> 01:07:18,911
...this is a matter
of life and death.
1270
01:07:22,915 --> 01:07:25,449
The first wave,it was so choppy.
1271
01:07:25,483 --> 01:07:28,219
I was going so fastand through those bumps,
1272
01:07:28,252 --> 01:07:30,989
and I felt like my boardwas skidding out.
1273
01:07:31,023 --> 01:07:33,357
You know, having that feelingof not being in control
1274
01:07:33,391 --> 01:07:36,762
and, all of a sudden,you feel your finsliding sideways,
1275
01:07:36,795 --> 01:07:39,463
and you're holding on.Like, it gives youthat snowboard feeling.
1276
01:07:39,497 --> 01:07:44,135
You know where you're, like,trying to, like, use youredges instead of your fins.
1277
01:07:44,168 --> 01:07:47,806
That's what it felt like.I'm like, "Oh, my God!I'm gonna eat shit right now."
1278
01:08:01,419 --> 01:08:05,524
I went flying down, like,both arms, trying to penetratethrough the water,
1279
01:08:05,557 --> 01:08:09,895
thinking I'm gonnapull through, you know,and swim on the other side.
1280
01:08:09,928 --> 01:08:11,964
At one moment, I
think I got it.
1281
01:08:11,997 --> 01:08:15,266
And, then, the thing
just takes me down and
explodes.
1282
01:08:22,074 --> 01:08:24,676
Lucas comes up to pick me up.
1283
01:08:24,710 --> 01:08:26,979
The wipeoutwas bad enough...
1284
01:08:27,012 --> 01:08:29,146
then, things get worse.
1285
01:08:29,180 --> 01:08:31,750
A second wave appears.
1286
01:08:31,783 --> 01:08:34,920
It takes duck-divinga 900-pound Jet Ski
1287
01:08:34,953 --> 01:08:38,790
with Nic holding onwith one good armto escape the maelstrom.
1288
01:08:40,792 --> 01:08:44,295
Oh, my God, that's not
how I wanna start the day,
you know?
1289
01:08:47,666 --> 01:08:48,867
I felt something was wrong,you know?
1290
01:08:48,900 --> 01:08:51,670
But, with the adrenaline,you don't feel it, you know?
1291
01:08:51,703 --> 01:08:53,739
You know, it was...
You know, I had to take
a little break
1292
01:08:53,772 --> 01:08:55,540
and, then, all of a sudden,
my arm started hurting.
1293
01:08:55,574 --> 01:08:57,976
Like, I couldn't even hold onto the Jet Ski.
1294
01:08:59,511 --> 01:09:01,079
But I was, like,"This is my day.
1295
01:09:01,113 --> 01:09:04,482
"This is, like...
I can't give up right now,"
you know?
1296
01:09:11,923 --> 01:09:13,424
Undauntedby Nic's injury
1297
01:09:13,457 --> 01:09:15,292
and the vibe changein the water,
1298
01:09:15,326 --> 01:09:19,064
Michaela finds theopportunity to get the rideof her life.
1299
01:09:32,209 --> 01:09:34,178
With a solid oneunder her belt,
1300
01:09:34,211 --> 01:09:35,881
Michaela heads back out
1301
01:09:35,914 --> 01:09:40,886
and catches what is, arguably,one of the biggest wavesever ridden by a woman.
1302
01:09:44,623 --> 01:09:46,323
That's the bestfeeling ever.
1303
01:09:46,357 --> 01:09:48,527
When you do what you love,
1304
01:09:48,560 --> 01:09:51,029
no one get hurt, nothing,
1305
01:09:51,063 --> 01:09:51,997
it's so amazing.
1306
01:10:01,272 --> 01:10:05,777
As with anybig wave session,there was sure to be carnage.
1307
01:10:26,064 --> 01:10:30,434
Also cashing in his chipsat the pain windowis Vini Dos Santos, where
1308
01:10:30,468 --> 01:10:32,671
things go wrongon a big one,
1309
01:10:32,704 --> 01:10:34,973
things go wrong in a big way.
1310
01:10:48,787 --> 01:10:51,322
The ski tries to reach himto get him to safety,
1311
01:10:51,355 --> 01:10:52,858
but another wave rolls in,
1312
01:10:52,891 --> 01:10:56,027
and he's left helplessand beaten upin the impact zone.
1313
01:10:58,864 --> 01:11:00,397
In unprecedented fashion,
1314
01:11:00,431 --> 01:11:03,101
the pressure of the wavehas popped his inflation vest
1315
01:11:03,135 --> 01:11:04,903
and the metal canistergets ripped out
1316
01:11:04,936 --> 01:11:06,571
and starts hitting himon the head.
1317
01:11:09,975 --> 01:11:13,111
Barely conscious,the ski driver races himto the beach.
1318
01:11:23,387 --> 01:11:27,659
After the intense hold-down,Vini is administered oxygenon the beach.
1319
01:11:27,692 --> 01:11:29,694
It is thanksto the well-preppedsafety team
1320
01:11:29,728 --> 01:11:32,597
that Vini is okayafter a relentless wipeout.
1321
01:11:39,571 --> 01:11:43,642
While on the stretcher,he talks about a giant wavehe caught earlier.
1322
01:11:48,013 --> 01:11:52,184
Later, looking at thefootage, it revealssomething extraordinary.
1323
01:11:52,217 --> 01:11:55,452
It appears he might haveridden a record-setting wave,
1324
01:11:55,486 --> 01:11:58,190
perhaps the 100-foot wave.
1325
01:12:11,036 --> 01:12:14,239
The measuring of wavesis as much art as science.
1326
01:12:14,272 --> 01:12:18,710
One oceanographer laterpegged this wave at 97.5 feet.
1327
01:12:25,851 --> 01:12:28,687
Variables as to where the topand bottom of the wave are,
1328
01:12:28,720 --> 01:12:32,123
the fact that the waveflattened out as he surfedto his right,
1329
01:12:32,157 --> 01:12:35,026
and the incalculabledistortion from the lens,
1330
01:12:35,060 --> 01:12:37,696
leave the measurementin the eye of the beholder.
1331
01:12:42,934 --> 01:12:45,103
History might have been madeby Vini
1332
01:12:45,136 --> 01:12:48,640
but, out in the lineup,Nic rallies to catch one more,
1333
01:12:48,673 --> 01:12:53,211
despite bruised ribs,and literally havingonly one arm with anystrength.
1334
01:12:54,846 --> 01:12:56,948
It's stupid.Like, my bodyis telling me to stop.
1335
01:12:56,982 --> 01:12:59,885
My... my ribsare almost broken.
1336
01:12:59,918 --> 01:13:02,153
My arm is, like, I don't knowwhat I have in my arm,
1337
01:13:02,187 --> 01:13:03,555
but it's, like,I can't move it.
1338
01:13:03,588 --> 01:13:04,656
My body is telling me to stop.
1339
01:13:04,689 --> 01:13:06,691
Like, you know,
life gives you signs.
1340
01:13:06,725 --> 01:13:09,094
Your body gives you signs
when it's enough and...
1341
01:13:09,127 --> 01:13:12,797
But I just thought, like,
whatever, you know?
Like, let's just go again.
1342
01:13:17,602 --> 01:13:21,438
And I'm getting, like,a first peaker,like, really intense,
1343
01:13:21,472 --> 01:13:23,008
where I, like, dropped down.
1344
01:13:23,041 --> 01:13:26,745
I ran in front of the cliff,and the thing just stood upreally tall.
1345
01:13:29,614 --> 01:13:33,084
Just magic, you know?Like, the wave was so clean,so big.
1346
01:13:33,118 --> 01:13:34,319
I faded deep.
1347
01:13:36,655 --> 01:13:39,724
I had that feelingthat I wanted, you know?Like, in 100% control.
1348
01:13:39,758 --> 01:13:44,729
You know, like, riding as deepas I can, pushing my limits,but in control, you know?
1349
01:13:44,763 --> 01:13:46,831
I was writing the wavesthe way I wanted.
1350
01:14:02,280 --> 01:14:03,782
We made it!
1351
01:14:03,815 --> 01:14:09,254
Guys, thank you so much
for your approach,
for your confidence in my job.
1352
01:14:10,789 --> 01:14:12,123
For me, like,it was a successful day
1353
01:14:12,157 --> 01:14:14,059
not because I rodethe biggest waves of my life.
1354
01:14:14,092 --> 01:14:19,698
For me, it was a successful
day because we are back
in one piece.
1355
01:14:19,731 --> 01:14:21,599
My ribs are hurting.
My shoulders are hurting.
1356
01:14:21,633 --> 01:14:24,936
Like, I can't even lift my arm
more than this, it feels like.
1357
01:14:24,970 --> 01:14:26,771
And I still caught,
like, three waves.
1358
01:14:26,805 --> 01:14:28,974
My best waves.
Like, I couldn't move my arm.
1359
01:14:29,007 --> 01:14:30,875
So, for me, it was, like, a...
1360
01:14:30,909 --> 01:14:33,411
a real effort of,
kind of like, pushing my
limits
1361
01:14:33,445 --> 01:14:36,881
and pushing my boundaries
and the commitment, you know?
1362
01:14:36,915 --> 01:14:38,750
Like, that's the mostimportant for me.
1363
01:14:40,685 --> 01:14:43,655
Oh, I got five waves. Five.
1364
01:14:43,688 --> 01:14:46,291
Four right, and one left.
1365
01:14:46,324 --> 01:14:51,429
Yeah, today was the biggest
wave I ever surf in my life,
for sure.
1366
01:14:53,665 --> 01:14:55,900
You always feel likeyou could have done better,you know?
1367
01:14:55,934 --> 01:14:57,836
I'm never satisfied.
1368
01:14:57,869 --> 01:15:00,438
Like, I'm very driven.
I always wanna do better.
1369
01:15:00,472 --> 01:15:01,673
I always wanna progress.
1370
01:15:01,706 --> 01:15:03,241
Not for others,but for myself.
1371
01:15:03,274 --> 01:15:04,876
Like that's what I'm made of,you know?
1372
01:15:04,909 --> 01:15:08,847
Like, that's what kept mein the game. That's what
kept me progressing.
1373
01:15:08,880 --> 01:15:10,882
We're still scratchingthe surface on what...
1374
01:15:10,915 --> 01:15:13,385
what's doableand what's big out in Nazare.
1375
01:15:13,418 --> 01:15:16,121
So, I mean, let's seewhat's gonna happenthe next five years.
1376
01:15:16,154 --> 01:15:18,056
Let's see what's gonna happenthe next 10 years.
1377
01:15:18,089 --> 01:15:20,825
Eventually it's gonna be,you know, over 100-foot.
1378
01:15:22,927 --> 01:15:24,162
Let's see what's gonna happen,you know?
1379
01:15:24,195 --> 01:15:26,498
And I hopeI'll still be here to...
1380
01:15:26,531 --> 01:15:28,199
to see it, you know?
1381
01:15:40,345 --> 01:15:44,282
At the endof the day, they paddled out.
1382
01:15:44,315 --> 01:15:48,920
Some dreams are realizedand some are not.
1383
01:15:48,953 --> 01:15:53,725
For those watching,for those riding,the lesson remains the same...
1384
01:15:53,758 --> 01:15:59,397
pushing limits and facingfears leads to progression,leads to growth...
1385
01:15:59,931 --> 01:16:02,267
leads to what is next.
1386
01:16:02,300 --> 01:16:04,969
The Northern Hemispherewill go dormant.
1387
01:16:05,003 --> 01:16:07,005
These men and women will wait.
1388
01:16:07,038 --> 01:16:09,607
The waves will return.
1389
01:16:09,641 --> 01:16:11,876
They will testthemselves again.
1390
01:16:11,910 --> 01:16:15,814
And we all will be inspiredby their exampleto face our fears
1391
01:16:15,847 --> 01:16:21,019
and push into and pastthe fear of the unknownin our own lives...
1392
01:16:23,421 --> 01:16:26,357
to the other side of fear.
126597
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