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It is summer.
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00:00:31,671 --> 00:00:32,796
It is midnight.
5
00:00:33,921 --> 00:00:35,337
We are headed south.
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00:01:10,712 --> 00:01:15,129
Um, uh, we just logged
another run low 10-10 spot.
7
00:01:15,337 --> 00:01:16,421
Chain before coming in.
8
00:01:32,379 --> 00:01:33,212
As they travel south
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00:01:33,421 --> 00:01:36,546
the men and women in this ship
will be bitterly cold.
10
00:01:37,046 --> 00:01:38,962
Sun will burn their faces
11
00:01:39,171 --> 00:01:40,879
wind will sear them
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00:01:42,046 --> 00:01:43,337
but they will feel fortunate
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00:01:43,546 --> 00:01:46,254
to have become part
of a great adventure.
14
00:03:11,171 --> 00:03:12,296
For thousands of years
15
00:03:12,504 --> 00:03:15,046
as human begins spread
across the planet
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00:03:15,254 --> 00:03:16,754
no one came here.
17
00:03:17,796 --> 00:03:20,962
Antarctica was as remote
as the moon.
18
00:03:46,879 --> 00:03:50,046
Ancient Greeks reasoned
that the world was round
19
00:03:50,796 --> 00:03:53,921
and that there must be
a great southern continent.
20
00:03:54,504 --> 00:03:56,587
They called the stars
above the North Pole
21
00:03:56,796 --> 00:03:58,879
Arktos, the bear
22
00:03:59,087 --> 00:04:03,296
so they named the far Pole
Antarktos.
23
00:04:04,046 --> 00:04:04,921
They imagined a land
24
00:04:05,129 --> 00:04:08,004
of strange beasts
and stranger customs
25
00:04:08,212 --> 00:04:10,546
where the laws of nature
might be reversed.
26
00:04:11,587 --> 00:04:13,546
It was the greatest mystery
on Earth.
27
00:04:35,796 --> 00:04:37,254
A world of ice.
28
00:04:56,046 --> 00:04:59,296
A continent far larger
than the United States
29
00:04:59,504 --> 00:05:02,754
it is three times higher
than any other continent.
30
00:05:06,254 --> 00:05:08,921
Its air is drier than the Sahara
31
00:05:09,129 --> 00:05:12,962
yet 70% of the fresh water
in the world is frozen here
32
00:05:13,171 --> 00:05:15,796
in ice sheets
up to three miles thick.
33
00:05:36,004 --> 00:05:40,046
For centuries, Antarctica was
the ultimate goal...
34
00:05:40,796 --> 00:05:43,004
the last challenge
of exploration.
35
00:05:44,004 --> 00:05:45,754
Getting here
was the hardest thing
36
00:05:45,962 --> 00:05:47,379
a human being could do.
37
00:05:48,171 --> 00:05:50,879
Until 1821, no one even saw it.
38
00:05:53,712 --> 00:05:56,712
Explorers came bravely
in wooden ships.
39
00:06:01,796 --> 00:06:03,504
The ice crushed them...
40
00:06:05,587 --> 00:06:06,796
but they never gave up.
41
00:06:13,337 --> 00:06:17,712
In 1911, Robert Falcon Scott
of Britain
42
00:06:18,254 --> 00:06:20,337
and Roald Amundsen of Norway
43
00:06:20,546 --> 00:06:23,129
both started for the South Pole.
44
00:06:26,921 --> 00:06:28,629
Both men would reach the Pole
45
00:06:30,337 --> 00:06:32,171
but only one of them would return.
46
00:06:48,254 --> 00:06:50,754
This is Scott's party
sitting like knights
47
00:06:50,962 --> 00:06:53,087
at the long table
beneath their battle flags.
48
00:07:05,546 --> 00:07:07,129
The long table is still there...
49
00:07:07,754 --> 00:07:09,004
the chairs they sat on
50
00:07:09,504 --> 00:07:10,837
the cups they drank from.
51
00:07:19,254 --> 00:07:20,754
Here, they helped
to build the foundations
52
00:07:20,962 --> 00:07:22,421
of Antarctic science.
53
00:07:30,921 --> 00:07:32,421
Their isolation was complete.
54
00:07:34,212 --> 00:07:36,921
They worked at the very edge
of what was known
55
00:07:37,671 --> 00:07:39,879
and the lessons they learned
were often hard.
56
00:08:04,837 --> 00:08:06,212
Never Scott's old hut
57
00:08:06,421 --> 00:08:09,337
in the shadow of a volcano
called Mount Erebus
58
00:08:10,212 --> 00:08:11,921
there is a nursery on the ice.
59
00:08:14,171 --> 00:08:16,379
Weddell seals were one
of the first animals
60
00:08:16,587 --> 00:08:20,879
to be studied in Antarctica,
one of the few species
61
00:08:21,087 --> 00:08:22,671
that lives here all year.
62
00:08:30,546 --> 00:08:32,754
The pup was born a few weeks ago
63
00:08:32,962 --> 00:08:35,421
and, now, it's time
for it to learn how to swim.
64
00:09:03,087 --> 00:09:07,796
At home beneath the ice,
they call eerily to one another.
65
00:09:24,421 --> 00:09:26,254
Scientists have been
counting seals here
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00:09:26,462 --> 00:09:29,129
since the early days,
but they are still fascinated
67
00:09:29,337 --> 00:09:31,962
by how these animals
have adapted to the climate
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00:09:32,171 --> 00:09:33,421
and to the freezing water.
69
00:09:36,129 --> 00:09:37,879
The seal's blood carries
so much oxygen
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00:09:38,087 --> 00:09:40,337
that is can hold its breath
for over an hour.
71
00:09:41,421 --> 00:09:44,337
They're amongst the greatest
natural divers in the world.
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00:10:08,837 --> 00:10:10,879
The ice is six feet thick.
73
00:10:19,754 --> 00:10:22,296
This is where Antarctica
hides its color
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00:10:22,504 --> 00:10:23,962
and its complexity.
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00:10:36,462 --> 00:10:39,004
Forests of tiny plants,
called algae
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00:10:39,212 --> 00:10:41,337
grow in the ice
as if in a greenhouse.
77
00:10:42,962 --> 00:10:45,587
Millions of krill,
which are like small shrimp
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00:10:45,796 --> 00:10:47,212
eat the algae.
79
00:10:47,879 --> 00:10:51,879
Fish eat the krill
and seals eat the fish.
80
00:10:53,296 --> 00:10:56,171
This chain of life
is so isolated and balanced
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00:10:56,379 --> 00:10:57,921
it gives scientists clues
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00:10:58,129 --> 00:10:59,837
to the health
of the whole planet.
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00:11:18,837 --> 00:11:21,712
Diving here is agony
for the first 20 minutes.
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00:11:22,504 --> 00:11:24,254
After that,
it becomes dangerous.
85
00:11:27,629 --> 00:11:28,671
Keep a hold!
86
00:11:44,962 --> 00:11:48,171
Less than two percent
of Antarctica is free of ice.
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00:11:49,171 --> 00:11:52,212
Here, Adelie penguins
build nests of stones.
88
00:11:56,254 --> 00:11:58,587
But even stones
are in short supply.
89
00:13:53,087 --> 00:13:55,296
Somewhere,
a leopard seal waits-
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00:13:55,504 --> 00:13:57,379
a thousand pounds of muscle
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00:13:57,587 --> 00:14:00,129
and teeth well-adapted
to tear flash.
92
00:14:01,462 --> 00:14:02,921
So scientists
have built a cage
93
00:14:03,129 --> 00:14:07,129
for a view of emperor penguins
early explorers longed for.
94
00:14:09,129 --> 00:14:12,587
The penguin on land
is almost wholly ludicrous.
95
00:14:12,796 --> 00:14:15,587
But the penguin in the water
is another thing.
96
00:14:19,546 --> 00:14:22,379
One would like to follow
the bird in his aquatic life-
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00:14:22,587 --> 00:14:24,796
if only such a thing
were possible.
98
00:15:13,629 --> 00:15:16,879
The penguins sense danger,
so they don't surface.
99
00:16:32,087 --> 00:16:36,004
No other bird lays its eggs on
the darkness of a polar winter
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00:16:36,212 --> 00:16:38,296
or hatches its chicks
in the coldest months
101
00:16:38,504 --> 00:16:39,837
of the Antarctic year.
102
00:16:40,754 --> 00:16:44,212
I think we are right to consider
the bird to be eccentric.
103
00:16:47,879 --> 00:16:51,046
They may look silly,
but they're unbelievably tough.
104
00:16:51,546 --> 00:16:53,754
They must walk
great distances from the sea
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00:16:53,962 --> 00:16:57,754
lashed by subzero winds,
bellies full of fish and quill
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00:16:57,962 --> 00:16:59,546
to feed their chicks.
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00:17:13,796 --> 00:17:15,254
At the edge
of the penguins' empire
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00:17:15,462 --> 00:17:17,837
ice bergs move slowly out to sea.
109
00:17:18,796 --> 00:17:22,129
They're pieces of Antarctica,
born high on the continent
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00:17:22,337 --> 00:17:25,837
where snow packs into ice
and flows slowly outward.
111
00:17:28,754 --> 00:17:31,837
If the earth grows warmer,
the movement may speed up
112
00:17:32,046 --> 00:17:35,671
and ice sheets as big as nations
slide into the sea.
113
00:17:36,921 --> 00:17:39,796
The sea would rise,
the climate change.
114
00:17:40,421 --> 00:17:41,837
It may already be happening.
115
00:18:53,004 --> 00:18:56,046
As the ice sheet moves,
it strains and splits.
116
00:19:17,962 --> 00:19:21,129
Some crevasses are so huge,
they could swallow a house.
117
00:19:22,629 --> 00:19:24,504
They can be
hundreds of feet deep.
118
00:19:37,629 --> 00:19:40,254
Windblown snow gradually builds
crystal bridges
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00:19:40,462 --> 00:19:41,796
across the gap at the top.
120
00:20:01,129 --> 00:20:03,754
The bridges can be quite
invisible on the surface.
121
00:20:03,962 --> 00:20:06,087
Some will support
the weight of a man
122
00:20:06,296 --> 00:20:07,712
but some will not.
123
00:20:23,296 --> 00:20:24,296
Whoa!
124
00:20:50,712 --> 00:20:52,504
This is only a demonstration.
125
00:20:55,921 --> 00:20:57,254
But this was real.
126
00:21:09,671 --> 00:21:11,546
The driver in this accident
was lucky.
127
00:21:11,754 --> 00:21:12,879
He survived.
128
00:21:16,587 --> 00:21:20,171
But his bulldozer is now
in a long slow grind to the sea.
129
00:21:43,337 --> 00:21:45,754
These ponds look shallow,
but they're not.
130
00:21:46,879 --> 00:21:48,129
When a diver swam through a hold
131
00:21:48,337 --> 00:21:50,212
in the bottom
of one these pools
132
00:21:50,421 --> 00:21:51,754
this is what she found.
133
00:22:21,796 --> 00:22:24,212
We're inside a moving glacier.
134
00:22:33,046 --> 00:22:35,087
No other film like this exists.
135
00:22:35,296 --> 00:22:38,046
No one has seen caverns
like this before.
136
00:22:38,837 --> 00:22:42,254
Here, scientists would expect
only rock-hard ice.
137
00:22:52,129 --> 00:22:54,254
So Antarctica reminds us again:
138
00:22:54,921 --> 00:22:57,796
We have scarcely begun
to understand our planet.
139
00:23:25,546 --> 00:23:27,962
Once, these dry valleys
were full of ice.
140
00:23:29,129 --> 00:23:30,004
Thousands of years ago
141
00:23:30,212 --> 00:23:31,754
something happened
to the climate
142
00:23:31,962 --> 00:23:34,129
and the ice that was here
disappeared.
143
00:23:41,254 --> 00:23:43,171
It left behind
vast empty valleys
144
00:23:43,379 --> 00:23:46,087
where it has probably not rained
for a million years
145
00:23:46,462 --> 00:23:48,837
where algae grows
inside solid rock
146
00:23:49,046 --> 00:23:50,546
and the land is so arid
147
00:23:50,754 --> 00:23:53,671
we practice experiments
designed for Mars.
148
00:23:57,546 --> 00:23:58,504
And it left a mystery
149
00:23:58,712 --> 00:24:01,629
that becomes more important
to us each day:
150
00:24:02,629 --> 00:24:04,712
What makes the climate change?
151
00:24:17,296 --> 00:24:20,421
Sea ice around the continent
waxes and wanes.
152
00:24:21,504 --> 00:24:24,337
In winter,
Antarctica doubles in size.
153
00:24:25,254 --> 00:24:28,712
The expanse of coldness affects
climate all over the globe
154
00:24:30,337 --> 00:24:32,962
but Antarctica not only
affects climate
155
00:24:33,587 --> 00:24:35,546
it also records it.
156
00:24:40,796 --> 00:24:42,712
Far from civilization
157
00:24:42,921 --> 00:24:45,629
a core drill digs deep
into the ice sheet.
158
00:24:52,587 --> 00:24:55,212
Ice layers can be read
like the rings of trees.
159
00:24:56,796 --> 00:25:00,212
The climate record goes back
100,000 years.
160
00:25:02,546 --> 00:25:04,546
Entrapped bubbles
of ancient air-
161
00:25:04,754 --> 00:25:07,171
ice cores tell a simple story.
162
00:25:07,921 --> 00:25:11,421
When the levels of carbon
dioxide in the atmosphere change
163
00:25:11,629 --> 00:25:13,212
so does the climate.
164
00:25:24,712 --> 00:25:31,087
A day, a week, a month, a year, a decade...
165
00:25:32,712 --> 00:25:36,171
This core came
from 466 feet down.
166
00:25:36,879 --> 00:25:41,421
It's ice that fell as snow
about 4,000 years ago.
167
00:25:50,337 --> 00:25:55,087
In the crystal ball of the ice,
the news from Antarctica is bad.
168
00:25:58,879 --> 00:26:02,379
Methane, strontium 90, lead
169
00:26:02,587 --> 00:26:04,962
increased carbon dioxide
170
00:26:05,462 --> 00:26:07,796
were changing the air...
171
00:26:08,504 --> 00:26:10,962
and we're starting
to see the effects.
172
00:26:15,462 --> 00:26:18,754
20 years ago, scientists
predicted that man-made chemicals
173
00:26:18,962 --> 00:26:21,837
would thin the planet's
protective layer of ozone.
174
00:26:23,254 --> 00:26:25,837
Recently, the thinning
became dramatic
175
00:26:26,046 --> 00:26:29,129
letting dangerous
ultraviolet rays from the sun-
176
00:26:29,337 --> 00:26:32,546
shown here in red--
hit the Earth.
177
00:26:34,129 --> 00:26:35,629
Nobody noticed it...
178
00:26:36,796 --> 00:26:38,379
except in Antarctica.
179
00:26:40,296 --> 00:26:42,837
Here, a few scientists
doing theoretical research
180
00:26:43,046 --> 00:26:45,629
noticed the change
in the upper atmosphere
181
00:26:45,837 --> 00:26:48,837
and learned that man-made
chemicals were causing it.
182
00:26:56,921 --> 00:27:00,879
International cooperation may
slow production of the chemicals
183
00:27:01,087 --> 00:27:03,379
but the damage has been done.
184
00:27:07,129 --> 00:27:08,796
So the research goes on...
185
00:27:09,004 --> 00:27:12,212
trying to understand
what we're doing to our world
186
00:27:12,879 --> 00:27:14,879
trying to find out in time.
187
00:29:16,421 --> 00:29:19,171
In this climate,
you must cooperate to survive.
188
00:29:20,212 --> 00:29:23,629
Here, that hard truth applies
even to politics.
189
00:29:25,879 --> 00:29:27,712
Antarctica is not a nation.
190
00:29:28,129 --> 00:29:31,462
It is protected by a unique
agreement among many nations
191
00:29:31,671 --> 00:29:34,254
to save the continent
for peace and science.
192
00:29:35,879 --> 00:29:38,421
This treaty has lasted
for over 30 years
193
00:29:38,629 --> 00:29:41,212
and stands as a model
for a happier world.
194
00:30:17,129 --> 00:30:21,671
In 1929, 17 years
after the Pole was won
195
00:30:21,879 --> 00:30:23,671
Richard Byrd traded dogs
196
00:30:23,879 --> 00:30:25,462
for an airplane
197
00:30:25,671 --> 00:30:28,379
and was the first
to fly over the South Pole.
198
00:30:31,796 --> 00:30:33,587
He looked in awe
on the wilderness
199
00:30:33,796 --> 00:30:36,962
that Scott and Amundsen
took months to cross.
200
00:30:50,629 --> 00:30:52,587
Today, the flight
takes three hours
201
00:30:52,796 --> 00:30:53,587
and the plane lands
202
00:30:53,796 --> 00:30:57,212
at what seems to be
a space station in low orbit.
203
00:31:00,962 --> 00:31:03,546
Amundsen-Scott
South Pole Station.
204
00:31:11,296 --> 00:31:14,004
Here, on ice 9,000 feet thick
205
00:31:14,212 --> 00:31:16,837
almost a hundred people
from all over the world
206
00:31:17,046 --> 00:31:19,046
work on 30 projects
207
00:31:19,254 --> 00:31:22,212
each looking beyond the edge
of what is known.
208
00:31:27,129 --> 00:31:29,129
At this altitude,
the air is so thin
209
00:31:29,337 --> 00:31:31,462
newcomers struggle for breath
210
00:31:32,379 --> 00:31:34,421
and the cold is unrelenting.
211
00:31:35,504 --> 00:31:37,962
Even in summer,
it reaches 40 below.
212
00:31:39,879 --> 00:31:41,796
The sun rises once a year.
213
00:31:42,962 --> 00:31:44,879
During the six months
of daylight
214
00:31:45,087 --> 00:31:48,587
it makes an almost perfect
circle in the sky every day.
215
00:31:50,879 --> 00:31:54,379
They've come to take its picture
for 2.5 days.
216
00:31:59,962 --> 00:32:01,837
A quick stroll around the world.
217
00:32:02,879 --> 00:32:03,921
The camera's ready
218
00:32:05,087 --> 00:32:06,962
and it reorders time.
219
00:33:07,629 --> 00:33:09,171
Wind is blowing hard
220
00:33:10,254 --> 00:33:13,921
and there's that curious,
damp feeling in the air
221
00:33:14,129 --> 00:33:15,421
which chills one to the bone.
222
00:33:16,587 --> 00:33:20,796
Praise God...
this is an awful place.
223
00:33:22,754 --> 00:33:25,629
Captain Scott and his companions
arrived at the Pole
224
00:33:25,837 --> 00:33:27,546
to find that Roald Amundsen
had been there
225
00:33:27,754 --> 00:33:29,254
just four weeks before.
226
00:33:34,629 --> 00:33:35,587
Taf Evans died
227
00:33:35,796 --> 00:33:38,254
a month into the return journey
from the cold
228
00:33:39,254 --> 00:33:43,296
Titus Oates, who slowed
his companions with his lameness
229
00:33:43,504 --> 00:33:46,254
walked away to his death
to try to save them.
230
00:33:48,504 --> 00:33:50,087
700 miles from the Pole
231
00:33:50,296 --> 00:33:52,962
and just 11 miles from safety
232
00:33:53,171 --> 00:33:55,837
the last three men
were stalked by a blizzard.
233
00:33:57,629 --> 00:34:00,379
With them were 35 pounds
of geological samples
234
00:34:00,587 --> 00:34:03,087
they had hauled
hundreds of miles
235
00:34:03,296 --> 00:34:04,796
in the cause of science.
236
00:34:10,671 --> 00:34:12,796
It seems a pity...
237
00:34:13,004 --> 00:34:16,046
but I don't think
I can write more.
238
00:34:18,587 --> 00:34:22,837
These rough notes
and our dead bodies
239
00:34:23,046 --> 00:34:24,462
must tell the tale.
240
00:34:31,337 --> 00:34:34,129
I should so like
to have come through
241
00:34:34,337 --> 00:34:35,879
for your dear sake.
242
00:34:37,046 --> 00:34:42,587
It is splendid to pass, however,
with such companions as I have
243
00:34:43,712 --> 00:34:47,421
and as all five of us
have mothers and wives
244
00:34:47,962 --> 00:34:49,754
you will not be alone.
245
00:34:51,421 --> 00:34:53,754
Your ever-loving son
246
00:34:53,962 --> 00:34:56,962
to the end of this life
and the next
247
00:34:57,171 --> 00:35:01,254
when God shall wipe away
all tears from our eyes.
248
00:35:24,629 --> 00:35:27,379
Scott and his men
were buried in the ice
249
00:35:27,587 --> 00:35:29,962
which will someday
carry them to sea
250
00:35:31,462 --> 00:35:34,546
but their rock samples
were taken home by others
251
00:35:34,754 --> 00:35:35,546
and their work became
252
00:35:35,754 --> 00:35:38,504
part of the new century's
Age of Science
253
00:35:39,754 --> 00:35:42,671
and of the peculiarly
human combination
254
00:35:42,879 --> 00:35:45,046
of curiosity and courage
255
00:35:45,254 --> 00:35:48,796
that has marked
Antarctica's story.
256
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Dear Lord, we thank you
for this time and this place
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and an opportunity to gather
together to give thanks.
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We just thank you, Father
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for the food
that was prepared for us
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and we just pray
that you will keep us safe
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and protect us
as we work down here.
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For it's in your name we pray.
Amen.
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The quest continues, driven by the same force
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that inspired
the old explorer knights.
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Here, in this place
of great beauty and hard truth
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we're given reason to hope
that we may yet do our best.
19201
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