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(intriguing electronic music)
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Its name spells luxury, glamor, and style.
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Its clothes are worn by the world's most beautiful women.
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Fabulous dress.
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Thank you.
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Dior is a billion-dollar brand
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spanning beauty, perfume, hand bags,
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and dresses worth tens of thousands.
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Its embroidery is insane.
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Over 70 years, Dior's designers
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have been some of the biggest in the business.
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As they now search for a new creative director,
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we have privileged access to the people who decide
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and the super-rich who buy their clothes.
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Join us inside this exclusive world
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as we discover the fabulous frocks ...
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scandals ...
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and ruthless business decisions
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which have kept Dior in the headlines.
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The courting of celebrities.
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The importance of underwear.
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And the psyches of the rich.
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Even very rich, she has problems in life.
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(upbeat jazz music)
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La Coeur Noir.
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Christian Dior's luxurious refuge in the south of France,
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away from the frenetic world of Paris fashion.
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Not the home you'd imagine of someone
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who started a fashion revolution.
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1947.
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Paris is still struggling with post-war austerity.
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After years in which fabrics were rationed,
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Dior uses luxurious swathes of material
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to create a new look, which changes the way women dress
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and shocks them the world over.
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Here, for example, are some new evening gowns
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for the summer season of 1948.
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They're designed by Christian Dior,
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the originator of the new look,
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though he disclaims the credit for inventing the name.
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These new dresses, he says, have the very latest line:
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small waists, full hips, irregular hem lines,
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and the fullness of the skirts unevenly spread.
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Suddenly you get these dresses
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that were not only nipped in at the waste but also full,
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these full skirts looking like dance skirts.
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It was a reminder of a previous era
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and also a shock to people who had learned
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how to be very careful with their money.
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The new line is called (foreign language), or fly away,
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all very charming, but I should think
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it would fly away with your money and your coupons.
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Just look at the amount of material in this one.
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A Dior model who was being photographed
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on the streets of Paris in the new look
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was actually attacked by some angry women passing by,
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who tore the new look apart because they were so shocked.
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(intriguing music)
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Christian Dior was an astute businessman
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who launched perfume, makeup,
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and stockings alongside clothes.
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Its cosmetics, perfume, and accessories
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which underpin the brand's commercial success.
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And at Dior's opulent country mansion,
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today's bosses are aiming to woo their fashionable guests.
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This is how Dior does things.
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This is Le Grand Diner, the Grand Dinner
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that will host the 200 people that we have tonight.
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Just facing the pool.
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Pool that Christian Dior himself designed.
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The emperor himself died
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just 10 years after founding the business,
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but his empire has learned how to exploit its past
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to cement its future.
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He's still the one that really guide us.
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He's the one that created everything.
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From the very start, he had this image of,
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and the vision of, a total brand that could really
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not only make women more beautiful but more happy as well.
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(elegant string music)
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Promoting the brand needs celebrity,
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so Dior has selected high-profile brand ambassadors,
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paid an undisclosed annual sum.
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Oscar-winning Charlize Theron,
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the face of J'adore perfume, doesn't come cheap,
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and her time is not to be wasted.
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Okay.
Okay.
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We can't afford to be late.
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I understand.
Okay?
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We will not be late.
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Thank you very much.
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Good evening.
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Hello, I'm Michael.
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Very nice to meet you.
Pleasure to meet you.
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Thank you.
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(overlapping speech)
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Fabulous dress.
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Thank you.
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I can just turn it.
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How's that?
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I just had a pin try to kill me in this dress.
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Does this look okay?
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You're not gonna see it.
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Okay.
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This was the one thing that came my way
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right after the Academy Awards
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that I didn't have to think about. (chuckles)
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Why?
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Because, I mean, to be associated,
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or to be asked to be part of a House
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that's stood the test of time.
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I mean, say the word Dior, and it resonates a lot of things,
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especially for a woman.
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He loved women.
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He just loved women.
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I know I don't know him personally,
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but I can't believe somebody can design
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everything that he's designed for this House
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and not be absolutely in love with women.
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If you had the opportunity,
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and if things changed, would you like to live here?
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Live in this House?
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I'll definitely take it. (chuckles)
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(whimsical music)
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Dior's owner, Bernard Arnault,
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is the richest man in France.
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His LVMH luxury empire made a profit
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of 6.6 billion euros in 2015.
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The placement at this dinner is careful.
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Two or three top French actresses nearby,
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Sidney Toledano, the Chief Executive
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of the fashion side of the business, opposite.
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And on his right, the star guest,
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fashionably late, Charlize.
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Hi, hello, everybody.
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Although she is of course wearing the brand
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she promotes, a sniff of the real thing
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for the man who has everything can't go amiss.
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Yeah, exactly.
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(glass clinking)
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Speaking of beauty, I would like to thank Charlize Theron,
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who has honored us by his presence this evening.
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Charlize.
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(applauding)
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(romantic orchestral music)
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Blenheim Palace, one of the most beautiful
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and historic stately homes in England,
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is visited by Princess Margaret.
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She is attending a fashion show
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held in aid of the Red Cross,
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which features the new winter collection of Christian Dior.
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Her Royal Highness chats with the famous designer,
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who has brought 13 of his top mannequins to the show,
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and his new H line, and this is it.
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H for horrid or heavenly.
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In 1954, Christian Dior did a very important
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fashion show at Blenheim Palace.
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It brings together that sense of French style
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but also the British aristocracy and British royalty.
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And Princess Margaret is very important in this story,
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because she's already a fan of Christian Dior.
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She ordered a number of dresses from Dior,
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including what became her favorite ever dress,
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which is her 21st birthday, long white dress,
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and she's photographed by Cecil Beaton in the dress,
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and she looks like a fairytale princess.
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(regal music)
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The pressure of today's fashion calendar
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is inexorable.
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Dior have to turn out seven collections a year.
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And for their latest, they've decided to return
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to the scene of their former triumph: Blenheim Palace.
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A vintage train is hired for the glitzy guests.
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Some seem less comfortable
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in their temporary outfits than others.
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(intriguing electronic music)
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As the VIP train trundles towards Blenheim,
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Dior have hired a less glamorous form of transport
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to make sure the models, some of the most sought after
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in the business, get there on time.
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Every aspiring model wants to walk in a Dior show,
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but however glamorous it may seem,
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the reality is all very no-nonsense.
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The 55 models are whisked
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straight to the route they'll be taking.
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The palace passes in a haze as they go through their paces
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on the catwalk before being rushed to hair and makeup.
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Dior's exalted makeup chief is waiting for them.
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I went for this color block, this brown,
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chocolate brown eye shadow, just to create
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almost like a military, very specific catwalk look,
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so the girls would stand out in this very rich,
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historic environment.
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You, I don't think,
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for my innocent eye, have any makeup on now.
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Uh-huh.
Do you?
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Well, I'm a very shiny person,
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so they keep telling me to powder.
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And have you got a little bit?
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Yes, but it keeps shining through,
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so it's hopeless, I'm hopeless.
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I'm too shiny. (chuckles)
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Marketing is all.
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And with social media playing an increasing part,
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19-year-old American model Bella Hadid,
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who has 5.7 million Instagram followers,
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has been chosen to be a beauty ambassador for the brand.
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It's nice to have makeup in a show
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that you feel comfortable in,
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and I love this makeup, so I'm excited.
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And the hair?
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The hair, I mean, I love a good slick-back,
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but the gel is just now drying,
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so it's a little bit crunchy, but I love the way it looks.
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Returning to Blenheim
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is a clever move by the Dior machine.
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With the all-important decision
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about their new name designer still being made,
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it's the venue which is the story.
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Today is a big moment for the two in-House designers
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who've been promoted to fill the gap,
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Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux.
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As they watch the final rehearsal,
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the fashion world waits to see how they will do.
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Dior fashion boss Sidney Toledano
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is the man who will make the big decision
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about who to hire as the new designer.
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In terms of designer, first of all
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I observe what's going on, I see.
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You have to know what is needed,
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what are the means you're offering,
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and what would be the person
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understanding the brand in terms of history, tradition,
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able to lead at a very high level, the challenges.
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But they could be young, could be--
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It's not a question of age but inspiring
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and giving the tone what will be
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the vision of the person for the future.
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Try one more time.
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So start here.
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While Mr. Toledano wrestles
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with the future direction of the company
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with an all-important Haute Couture show
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to come in just five weeks' time,
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one young model is being given last-minute tips
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by casting director Anita Bitton
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on the fine art of changing direction on the catwalk.
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Another step into it so you're not so ...
249
00:12:36,070 --> 00:12:37,826
So you're not turning around.
250
00:12:37,826 --> 00:12:39,260
That's it!
251
00:12:39,260 --> 00:12:40,160
Okay.
Yeah.
252
00:12:40,160 --> 00:12:41,123
Try one more time.
253
00:12:47,542 --> 00:12:48,840
(clapping)
254
00:12:48,840 --> 00:12:50,280
Okay, take the shoes off.
255
00:12:50,280 --> 00:12:51,460
Yeah.
(chuckles)
256
00:12:51,460 --> 00:12:52,860
Can I ask, were you finding it
257
00:12:52,860 --> 00:12:54,705
difficult to turn around?
258
00:12:54,705 --> 00:12:55,538
Oh.
259
00:12:55,538 --> 00:12:57,550
It's my first time, so ...
260
00:12:57,550 --> 00:12:58,383
Really?
261
00:12:58,383 --> 00:12:59,259
Yeah.
Exciting.
262
00:12:59,259 --> 00:13:00,092
Yeah.
263
00:13:00,092 --> 00:13:01,000
She's never done a show before.
264
00:13:02,085 --> 00:13:03,690
Have you ever done a casting before?
265
00:13:03,690 --> 00:13:05,180
No.
No.
266
00:13:05,180 --> 00:13:07,630
So everything is new.
Yeah, everything.
267
00:13:07,630 --> 00:13:09,090
Where are you from, might I ask?
268
00:13:09,090 --> 00:13:10,780
Denmark.
Aha.
269
00:13:10,780 --> 00:13:12,312
Can I ask how old you are?
270
00:13:12,312 --> 00:13:13,145
15.
271
00:13:16,122 --> 00:13:18,880
(regal brass music)
272
00:13:18,880 --> 00:13:21,670
Dior are on the hunt for a new top designer,
273
00:13:21,670 --> 00:13:24,400
but the shows must go on, and for this one,
274
00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:26,350
they've hired Blenheim Palace,
275
00:13:26,350 --> 00:13:29,690
with a 60-piece brass fanfare to herald the guests,
276
00:13:29,690 --> 00:13:31,600
and a battalion of butlers.
277
00:13:38,640 --> 00:13:42,200
Christian Dior himself knew a thing or two about marketing.
278
00:13:42,200 --> 00:13:43,800
When he took a collection from Paris
279
00:13:43,800 --> 00:13:47,110
to show at Blenheim Palace in front of British royalty,
280
00:13:47,110 --> 00:13:48,795
it made quite an impact.
281
00:13:48,795 --> 00:13:50,190
(romantic orchestral music)
282
00:13:50,190 --> 00:13:52,210
Next, a creation called Peru.
283
00:13:52,210 --> 00:13:53,800
A yellow satin coat lined with fur
284
00:13:53,800 --> 00:13:57,133
over a jewel dress that took 600 hours to embroider.
285
00:13:58,390 --> 00:13:59,810
Do you mind walking towards me?
286
00:13:59,810 --> 00:14:02,120
Former ballerina Svetlana Lloyd
287
00:14:02,120 --> 00:14:04,830
was an in-House mannequin for Christian Dior.
288
00:14:04,830 --> 00:14:06,863
She walked for Dior in the '50s.
289
00:14:08,190 --> 00:14:09,282
It doesn't.
290
00:14:09,282 --> 00:14:11,038
You've still got it.
291
00:14:11,038 --> 00:14:11,871
Definitely.
292
00:14:11,871 --> 00:14:13,043
(chuckling)
293
00:14:13,043 --> 00:14:14,720
What was he like, Mr. Dior?
294
00:14:14,720 --> 00:14:18,000
Monsieur Dior had a very high-pitched voice.
295
00:14:18,000 --> 00:14:19,820
He appeared always shy.
296
00:14:19,820 --> 00:14:23,950
And he also, in a very gentle, subtle way,
297
00:14:23,950 --> 00:14:26,320
knew exactly what he wanted,
298
00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:28,750
and he didn't need to raise his voice,
299
00:14:28,750 --> 00:14:31,150
he didn't need to throw a tantrum,
300
00:14:31,150 --> 00:14:34,430
he didn't need anything except to say,
301
00:14:34,430 --> 00:14:37,490
in the softest possible way, what he wanted,
302
00:14:37,490 --> 00:14:41,260
and it was done, and he had wonderful ideas
303
00:14:41,260 --> 00:14:44,500
on how to follow through whatever he wanted,
304
00:14:44,500 --> 00:14:47,750
so that the execution of it was perfect.
305
00:14:47,750 --> 00:14:51,070
He said that what he really wanted in life
306
00:14:51,070 --> 00:14:55,640
was to make clothes for decently-clothed
307
00:14:55,640 --> 00:14:59,223
members of the good society, and that's all.
308
00:15:00,560 --> 00:15:03,820
He would say, "That shoulder needs doing something."
309
00:15:03,820 --> 00:15:06,010
And instead of pointing as you and I would,
310
00:15:06,010 --> 00:15:08,860
he had a little stick that actually reached,
311
00:15:08,860 --> 00:15:12,090
and then he would say, "About there, and about here,"
312
00:15:12,090 --> 00:15:14,930
as you might with a finger, except that a finger
313
00:15:14,930 --> 00:15:18,173
would be a little too near and too intimate.
314
00:15:19,870 --> 00:15:22,950
The style of showing is completely different now
315
00:15:22,950 --> 00:15:24,810
than it was before.
316
00:15:24,810 --> 00:15:28,500
We had the so-called French couture style.
317
00:15:28,500 --> 00:15:30,433
The idea was to glide.
318
00:15:31,620 --> 00:15:35,930
Nowadays, the idea is to walk ...
319
00:15:35,930 --> 00:15:37,063
decidedly.
320
00:15:37,980 --> 00:15:40,740
There was no emphasis on hips at all,
321
00:15:40,740 --> 00:15:45,500
so that you did the glide, the couture glide.
322
00:15:45,500 --> 00:15:48,951
Today's models adopt a very different style.
323
00:15:48,951 --> 00:15:51,420
In the old days, it used to be more like,
324
00:15:51,420 --> 00:15:53,833
you know, like more like a woman,
325
00:15:54,670 --> 00:15:57,260
almost floating through the room, yeah.
326
00:15:57,260 --> 00:15:58,160
Now, that changed a lot.
327
00:15:58,160 --> 00:16:01,800
Here we all know it's quite tough and quite fast.
328
00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:03,860
But you definitely don't smile much, do you?
329
00:16:03,860 --> 00:16:04,693
No, you don't.
330
00:16:04,693 --> 00:16:06,114
You're not meant to smile.
331
00:16:06,114 --> 00:16:06,947
No.
332
00:16:06,947 --> 00:16:08,350
It's more very serious.
333
00:16:08,350 --> 00:16:09,413
Okay, here we go.
334
00:16:10,323 --> 00:16:13,083
Do it, do it.
335
00:16:13,083 --> 00:16:13,916
That's it.
336
00:16:13,916 --> 00:16:15,986
So, now, your lovely smile is inappropriate,
337
00:16:15,986 --> 00:16:16,960
is it, on the catwalk?
338
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:18,238
Yeah, you don't do that.
339
00:16:18,238 --> 00:16:23,238
I mean, for some shows you can, but mostly not.
340
00:16:23,370 --> 00:16:25,843
So, do you mind looking at the camera, smiling,
341
00:16:25,843 --> 00:16:27,610
and then going into modern.
342
00:16:27,610 --> 00:16:29,284
So that, and then ...
343
00:16:29,284 --> 00:16:31,139
(laughing)
344
00:16:31,139 --> 00:16:32,020
(upbeat piano music)
345
00:16:32,020 --> 00:16:34,310
Dior, the company, learned fast
346
00:16:34,310 --> 00:16:37,090
how to be bigger than the man who created it.
347
00:16:37,090 --> 00:16:40,950
In 1957, just 10 years after founding the company,
348
00:16:40,950 --> 00:16:43,960
Christian Dior suddenly died of a heart attack,
349
00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:46,030
aged only 52.
350
00:16:46,030 --> 00:16:47,470
Christian Dior's death
351
00:16:47,470 --> 00:16:51,720
was totally shocking and unexpected.
352
00:16:51,720 --> 00:16:55,550
But there is this genius in place
353
00:16:55,550 --> 00:16:57,570
who is the young Yves Saint Laurent,
354
00:16:57,570 --> 00:17:02,030
who is Christian Dior's 21-year-old assistant.
355
00:17:02,030 --> 00:17:06,170
And Yves Saint Laurent steps into the master's shoes
356
00:17:06,170 --> 00:17:09,290
and is very successful very quickly.
357
00:17:09,290 --> 00:17:12,120
And there's no other moment, I would say,
358
00:17:12,120 --> 00:17:16,950
in fashion history where you get a great designer dying,
359
00:17:16,950 --> 00:17:21,350
and his successor is already at the House.
360
00:17:21,350 --> 00:17:22,990
What he had to say was quite different
361
00:17:22,990 --> 00:17:26,500
from Christian Dior, not romantic, not elegant,
362
00:17:26,500 --> 00:17:30,460
but much more feisty, much more 1960s.
363
00:17:30,460 --> 00:17:32,680
Yves Saint Laurent get his chance, too,
364
00:17:32,680 --> 00:17:35,820
at Blenheim Palace in 1958.
365
00:17:35,820 --> 00:17:36,980
You don't have to be an expert
366
00:17:36,980 --> 00:17:39,300
to see that, if there's no startling new line,
367
00:17:39,300 --> 00:17:42,130
there's the attraction of variety and, may I say,
368
00:17:42,130 --> 00:17:45,090
extravagance in these creations for the evening.
369
00:17:45,090 --> 00:17:48,757
(romantic orchestral music)
370
00:17:50,060 --> 00:17:54,103
Constantinople, a smart ensemble more Parisian than Turkish.
371
00:17:56,720 --> 00:17:58,710
The last gown presented before the princess
372
00:17:58,710 --> 00:18:00,890
was appropriately named Blenheim,
373
00:18:00,890 --> 00:18:03,340
a magnificent affair in white satin,
374
00:18:03,340 --> 00:18:05,290
with noticeably long sleeves.
375
00:18:05,290 --> 00:18:07,653
Even a stately home can be chilly in winter.
376
00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:11,410
Finally, the brilliant young designer
377
00:18:11,410 --> 00:18:13,043
was presented to the princess.
378
00:18:15,490 --> 00:18:18,548
And he, in turn, presented the 16 mannequins.
379
00:18:18,548 --> 00:18:22,000
(intriguing electronic music)
380
00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:23,690
Back in the same grand library
381
00:18:23,690 --> 00:18:25,423
in chilly Blenheim Palace today,
382
00:18:26,320 --> 00:18:29,420
in-house designers Serge and Lucie's outfits
383
00:18:29,420 --> 00:18:32,170
are revealed to the critical eyes of the fashion world.
384
00:18:46,824 --> 00:18:49,991
Will Serge and Lucie stand by.
385
00:18:53,056 --> 00:18:55,578
Serge and Lucie, go, go!
386
00:18:55,578 --> 00:18:58,013
(applauding)
387
00:18:58,013 --> 00:19:01,263
(elegant string music)
388
00:19:03,078 --> 00:19:03,911
Perfect!
389
00:19:09,020 --> 00:19:10,300
They looked quite young and fresh
390
00:19:10,300 --> 00:19:11,790
in the sporting elements.
391
00:19:11,790 --> 00:19:14,290
So that I thought they did a good job.
392
00:19:14,290 --> 00:19:15,560
It's a tough gig, isn't it,
393
00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:17,360
being the sort of interim designers?
394
00:19:18,380 --> 00:19:19,640
I don't know, because I don't know
395
00:19:19,640 --> 00:19:21,010
whether maybe they'll stay forever.
396
00:19:21,010 --> 00:19:22,820
Who knows what will happen?
397
00:19:22,820 --> 00:19:24,870
But in the world of big fashion Houses,
398
00:19:24,870 --> 00:19:28,380
don't they all need and want a big-name designer?
399
00:19:28,380 --> 00:19:30,170
I think the main thing is to have a designer
400
00:19:30,170 --> 00:19:32,100
who captures the world today.
401
00:19:32,100 --> 00:19:34,490
After all, the days when Princess Margaret
402
00:19:34,490 --> 00:19:37,270
had her great event here, and was sitting in the audience
403
00:19:37,270 --> 00:19:40,080
and looking at the clothes, it was such a different world.
404
00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:44,110
You know, the society, the sheer strength
405
00:19:44,110 --> 00:19:47,050
of the upper classes, all that's gone, faded away.
406
00:19:47,050 --> 00:19:49,480
Now they're looking, I mean Dior are looking,
407
00:19:49,480 --> 00:19:51,630
at international clients all over the world,
408
00:19:51,630 --> 00:19:53,893
so we're in a very different position.
409
00:19:55,410 --> 00:19:56,990
Even before the last crumbs
410
00:19:56,990 --> 00:19:59,160
of the magnificent Blenheim tier are eaten,
411
00:19:59,160 --> 00:20:01,560
Dior are thinking ahead to what has always been
412
00:20:01,560 --> 00:20:05,120
the biggest and most exclusive thing in their fashion year:
413
00:20:05,120 --> 00:20:07,120
the Haute Couture show.
414
00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:08,450
It will be the last collection
415
00:20:08,450 --> 00:20:11,160
before the announcement of their new designer.
416
00:20:11,160 --> 00:20:14,610
Who is the chief designer has always been a key question.
417
00:20:14,610 --> 00:20:16,690
Three years of success wasn't enough
418
00:20:16,690 --> 00:20:19,850
to keep boy genius Yves Saint Laurent in his job.
419
00:20:19,850 --> 00:20:22,120
After he was called up for military service
420
00:20:22,120 --> 00:20:25,410
in the Algerian War of Independence in 1960,
421
00:20:25,410 --> 00:20:27,550
Dior refused to have him back.
422
00:20:27,550 --> 00:20:29,930
He was replaced by the more conservative figure
423
00:20:29,930 --> 00:20:30,803
of Marc Bohan.
424
00:20:31,920 --> 00:20:34,780
Marc Bohan was kind of extraordinary.
425
00:20:34,780 --> 00:20:36,960
He introduces something,
426
00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:40,120
I would say a fluidity, to his designs.
427
00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:42,750
They're much freer, they're much more fluid.
428
00:20:42,750 --> 00:20:45,430
There's certainly no corsetry
429
00:20:45,430 --> 00:20:48,230
in the same way that Dior did.
430
00:20:48,230 --> 00:20:50,410
They're not comfortable in the sense that
431
00:20:50,410 --> 00:20:52,980
they're like your onesie or you sort of dressing gown,
432
00:20:52,980 --> 00:20:56,220
but I can imagine being able to run in them
433
00:20:56,220 --> 00:20:58,843
and dance in them and move in them.
434
00:21:00,870 --> 00:21:04,684
Marc Bohan was the designer who brought fantastic clients.
435
00:21:04,684 --> 00:21:07,434
(dramatic music)
436
00:21:12,380 --> 00:21:14,050
I think Princess Grace of Monaco
437
00:21:14,050 --> 00:21:15,680
had some of his loveliest dresses.
438
00:21:15,680 --> 00:21:17,840
He really knew how to dress
439
00:21:17,840 --> 00:21:21,460
what was the thickening waist of Princess Grace,
440
00:21:21,460 --> 00:21:25,030
and her style was no longer of the youthful princess.
441
00:21:25,030 --> 00:21:27,070
People actually want clothes that flatter them,
442
00:21:27,070 --> 00:21:28,440
that make them look good.
443
00:21:28,440 --> 00:21:30,550
They want a designer who's sympathetic,
444
00:21:30,550 --> 00:21:32,920
not one who necessarily wants to try out
445
00:21:32,920 --> 00:21:36,200
all his wild ideas on their bodies.
446
00:21:36,200 --> 00:21:38,940
Dior, it's a big industry, it's a big business,
447
00:21:38,940 --> 00:21:41,000
so Marc Bohan was successful.
448
00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,370
Women wanted to wear his clothes.
449
00:21:43,370 --> 00:21:45,470
He made beautiful clothes
450
00:21:45,470 --> 00:21:48,200
that made women feel beautiful in them.
451
00:21:48,200 --> 00:21:50,333
That's the secret of his success.
452
00:21:52,470 --> 00:21:53,710
Avenue Montaigne,
453
00:21:53,710 --> 00:21:56,850
in the poshest part of Paris, number 30,
454
00:21:56,850 --> 00:22:00,063
the birthplace of the House of Dior is still its home today.
455
00:22:03,740 --> 00:22:04,573
Hello.
456
00:22:04,573 --> 00:22:07,100
Let me take my card, because we are going
457
00:22:07,100 --> 00:22:09,760
to go through the third floor.
458
00:22:09,760 --> 00:22:10,593
Okay?
459
00:22:10,593 --> 00:22:12,630
Catherine Riviere runs Haute Couture,
460
00:22:12,630 --> 00:22:15,300
the most exclusive part of the Dior empire.
461
00:22:15,300 --> 00:22:19,260
Here, that's the first floor with Haute Couture salon.
462
00:22:19,260 --> 00:22:20,830
Couture clothes are handmade
463
00:22:20,830 --> 00:22:22,960
for the kind of woman who can afford to pay
464
00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:25,540
upwards of 20,000 pounds an outfit.
465
00:22:25,540 --> 00:22:28,633
Here you have Princess Diana.
466
00:22:30,220 --> 00:22:32,243
Diana, did you meet?
467
00:22:32,243 --> 00:22:33,076
Yes!
468
00:22:33,076 --> 00:22:36,350
I went to see her to make some fitting for her.
469
00:22:36,350 --> 00:22:37,590
She was charming.
470
00:22:37,590 --> 00:22:38,423
Really?
471
00:22:38,423 --> 00:22:40,901
I remember she welcomed us, she was barefooted.
472
00:22:40,901 --> 00:22:42,510
(laughing)
473
00:22:42,510 --> 00:22:44,600
Very relaxed.
474
00:22:44,600 --> 00:22:46,413
It was very nice.
475
00:22:46,413 --> 00:22:47,487
That was Princess Diana.
476
00:22:47,487 --> 00:22:48,363
Yeah.
477
00:22:48,363 --> 00:22:51,210
Because, you know, we went in her sitting room.
478
00:22:51,210 --> 00:22:56,210
It was like a young girl, with ballet shoes and cane.
479
00:22:56,880 --> 00:22:58,560
And now, the head office,
480
00:22:58,560 --> 00:23:00,720
with all its echoes of past glamor,
481
00:23:00,720 --> 00:23:02,820
has itself been chosen as the venue
482
00:23:02,820 --> 00:23:05,063
for this year's Haute Couture collection.
483
00:23:06,510 --> 00:23:08,763
But first, it has to get a makeover.
484
00:23:09,650 --> 00:23:11,210
As they inspect the location
485
00:23:11,210 --> 00:23:13,730
for their first Haute Couture show,
486
00:23:13,730 --> 00:23:16,380
in-house designers Serge and Lucie
487
00:23:16,380 --> 00:23:19,863
know that an enormous amount rests on their shoulders.
488
00:23:21,270 --> 00:23:23,980
Couture is the House's signature collection,
489
00:23:23,980 --> 00:23:27,593
and they've got four days left to perfect their outfits.
490
00:23:31,413 --> 00:23:33,360
(anxious electronic music)
491
00:23:33,360 --> 00:23:35,930
Three floors up, meet Flo Chehet,
492
00:23:35,930 --> 00:23:38,583
the hands of Haute Couture at the House of Dior.
493
00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:42,040
Flo supervises one of the two work rooms,
494
00:23:42,040 --> 00:23:44,933
and everything there has to pass through her hands.
495
00:23:46,150 --> 00:23:48,520
She has seen designers come and go,
496
00:23:48,520 --> 00:23:51,040
and they've all known that they rely of Flo
497
00:23:51,040 --> 00:23:53,443
and her fellow workers to produce the goods.
498
00:23:54,500 --> 00:23:56,413
Her empire is dresses.
499
00:23:58,698 --> 00:24:02,781
(conversing in foreign language)
500
00:24:43,260 --> 00:24:46,570
Flo is involved in fittings for the next three days.
501
00:24:46,570 --> 00:24:49,000
Every model has to have at least one fitting,
502
00:24:49,000 --> 00:24:51,840
and Flo has to inspect and be on hand downstairs
503
00:24:51,840 --> 00:24:53,490
for each of her team's creations.
504
00:24:56,270 --> 00:24:59,050
Flo has a direct, no-nonsense approach
505
00:24:59,050 --> 00:25:00,523
to someone she's never met.
506
00:25:05,477 --> 00:25:09,394
(speaking in foreign language)
507
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:19,270
Haute Couture boss Catherine Riviere
508
00:25:19,270 --> 00:25:22,070
visits the workshops to inspect progress.
509
00:25:22,070 --> 00:25:24,840
This is what we call the sample.
510
00:25:24,840 --> 00:25:27,793
If there is a client who likes it,
511
00:25:27,793 --> 00:25:31,340
can be made in another color if they wish.
512
00:25:31,340 --> 00:25:33,680
For example, if you want it in red,
513
00:25:33,680 --> 00:25:36,350
navy, whatever, it's possible.
514
00:25:36,350 --> 00:25:38,370
But then you remake it completely.
515
00:25:38,370 --> 00:25:39,490
It's always.
516
00:25:39,490 --> 00:25:43,640
Sample of Haute Couture collection is never sold.
517
00:25:43,640 --> 00:25:44,700
So, if a client
518
00:25:44,700 --> 00:25:47,480
has a very different shape to the model.
519
00:25:47,480 --> 00:25:49,260
They are always a different shape,
520
00:25:49,260 --> 00:25:50,867
because the model are 16.
521
00:25:50,867 --> 00:25:52,603
They are, you know, 34.
522
00:25:54,678 --> 00:25:57,860
So, you know, they are always different.
523
00:25:57,860 --> 00:25:59,840
So it's why take the measurements.
524
00:25:59,840 --> 00:26:02,920
You have all the dummies of the client
525
00:26:02,920 --> 00:26:05,387
upstairs, on the shelf.
526
00:26:06,502 --> 00:26:08,136
These canvasses on the top shelves.
527
00:26:08,136 --> 00:26:09,124
Clients.
528
00:26:09,124 --> 00:26:09,957
Clients?
529
00:26:09,957 --> 00:26:11,663
You know, we have a basis.
530
00:26:11,663 --> 00:26:14,740
And after, we stud them according
531
00:26:14,740 --> 00:26:16,800
to the measurement of the client.
532
00:26:16,800 --> 00:26:17,633
Aha.
533
00:26:17,633 --> 00:26:19,457
So, looking at some over here--
534
00:26:19,457 --> 00:26:23,763
You have someone big, you have someone thin.
535
00:26:23,763 --> 00:26:24,690
You have very ...
536
00:26:24,690 --> 00:26:28,930
You know, both things, they have to be dressed, you know?
537
00:26:28,930 --> 00:26:30,890
No, sure, we have ...
538
00:26:32,160 --> 00:26:35,757
ladies beautiful but who are not a size 34.
539
00:26:38,120 --> 00:26:39,687
You see the different shapes.
540
00:26:39,687 --> 00:26:42,333
You have some with very small waist.
541
00:26:44,110 --> 00:26:47,083
This one has no waist and a little bit more,
542
00:26:48,720 --> 00:26:51,850
how you say, square.
543
00:26:51,850 --> 00:26:53,340
Everybody is different.
544
00:26:53,340 --> 00:26:55,320
You have some with hip, with no hips,
545
00:26:55,320 --> 00:26:59,753
with big bust, with small waist, with big waist.
546
00:27:01,225 --> 00:27:02,390
They're all different.
547
00:27:02,390 --> 00:27:04,490
Like the woman in the world.
548
00:27:04,490 --> 00:27:07,483
If you look at the woman, they are all different.
549
00:27:08,750 --> 00:27:10,250
Rich and thin.
550
00:27:11,311 --> 00:27:13,620
Yeah, of course they are rich, you know?
551
00:27:13,620 --> 00:27:16,360
Because it's silly to say that Haute Couture
552
00:27:16,360 --> 00:27:17,900
is accessible to everyone.
553
00:27:17,900 --> 00:27:18,790
It's not true.
554
00:27:18,790 --> 00:27:21,867
It's not accessible to everyone.
555
00:27:21,867 --> 00:27:23,323
It's something special.
556
00:27:24,422 --> 00:27:25,606
It's a dream.
557
00:27:25,606 --> 00:27:28,509
Haute Couture has to sell dream.
558
00:27:28,509 --> 00:27:31,759
(curious string music)
559
00:27:34,290 --> 00:27:37,830
Avenue Montaigne, Dior HQ.
560
00:27:37,830 --> 00:27:40,060
Deep inside the building, hundreds of people
561
00:27:40,060 --> 00:27:42,530
are hard at work on the Haute Couture collection,
562
00:27:42,530 --> 00:27:45,473
which will be unveiled in three days' time.
563
00:27:47,360 --> 00:27:50,130
Flo, the head of Couture dress making,
564
00:27:50,130 --> 00:27:52,260
works on the model fittings.
565
00:27:52,260 --> 00:27:55,717
But there's a bit of an issue, a little thing about thongs.
566
00:27:58,676 --> 00:28:02,148
(speaking in foreign language)
567
00:28:02,148 --> 00:28:04,398
(laughing)
568
00:28:30,138 --> 00:28:33,480
The Dior seamstresses can work with any designer,
569
00:28:33,480 --> 00:28:34,960
and they've had to.
570
00:28:34,960 --> 00:28:38,550
In 1989, a new creative director was appointed:
571
00:28:38,550 --> 00:28:41,830
the glitzy Italian Gianfranco Ferre.
572
00:28:41,830 --> 00:28:45,230
It was the first big decision taken by Bernard Arnault
573
00:28:45,230 --> 00:28:47,363
when he bought the then-ailing company.
574
00:28:48,430 --> 00:28:50,360
He obviously took one look at Dior
575
00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:52,860
and thought this is a brand for old ladies.
576
00:28:52,860 --> 00:28:55,678
We have to have something younger and fresher.
577
00:28:55,678 --> 00:28:57,120
(upbeat music)
578
00:28:57,120 --> 00:28:58,890
With the appointment of Gianfranco Ferré
579
00:28:58,890 --> 00:29:02,170
he chose somebody who did quite spectacular collections
580
00:29:02,170 --> 00:29:04,780
with great big skirts, very Italian, in fact,
581
00:29:04,780 --> 00:29:06,610
and I think too Italian for the House.
582
00:29:06,610 --> 00:29:09,499
You can look at those clothes and think,
583
00:29:09,499 --> 00:29:14,150
well, they're slightly too overblown for my taste.
584
00:29:14,150 --> 00:29:18,162
But probably they will have their moment again.
585
00:29:18,162 --> 00:29:22,079
(speaking in foreign language)
586
00:29:23,820 --> 00:29:26,540
Before Serge and Lucie's Couture show,
587
00:29:26,540 --> 00:29:29,930
over 50 models are summoned and then pushed and pulled
588
00:29:29,930 --> 00:29:34,120
in and out of various outfits as the garments are finalized.
589
00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:38,530
19-year-old Julie Hoomans from Holland is much in demand.
590
00:29:38,530 --> 00:29:41,360
It's now less than 24 hours before the show,
591
00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,593
but everything seems very last-minute.
592
00:29:45,020 --> 00:29:46,330
My agency called me around three
593
00:29:46,330 --> 00:29:48,190
to say, like, you have to go to Dior,
594
00:29:48,190 --> 00:29:49,780
'cause your fitting's at four.
595
00:29:49,780 --> 00:29:53,360
So I skipped my plans with my friends, and I came here.
596
00:29:53,360 --> 00:29:54,520
And now I'm sitting and waiting.
597
00:29:54,520 --> 00:29:56,730
That's okay, 'cause I just heard them say
598
00:29:56,730 --> 00:29:58,527
my outfit will be ready soon.
599
00:29:58,527 --> 00:29:59,730
There's an awful lot of waiting around?
600
00:29:59,730 --> 00:30:00,730
Oh yeah, there is.
601
00:30:00,730 --> 00:30:01,563
Yeah, there is.
602
00:30:01,563 --> 00:30:02,396
There always is.
603
00:30:02,396 --> 00:30:03,850
But I mean, you have to get used to it.
604
00:30:03,850 --> 00:30:05,754
I mean, bring a book, bring your phone.
605
00:30:05,754 --> 00:30:06,593
Have you brought a book?
606
00:30:06,593 --> 00:30:07,830
Yeah, I have, actually.
607
00:30:07,830 --> 00:30:08,663
What are you reading?
608
00:30:08,663 --> 00:30:10,920
I am reading, it's a really good book.
609
00:30:10,920 --> 00:30:12,147
I'm sure you know it.
610
00:30:12,147 --> 00:30:13,370
I'm reading it in Dutch.
611
00:30:13,370 --> 00:30:18,140
It's Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Hundred Years of Solitude.
612
00:30:18,140 --> 00:30:18,973
So, it's really good.
613
00:30:18,973 --> 00:30:20,493
It keeps me entertained, yeah.
614
00:30:21,900 --> 00:30:24,020
At last, the proposed outfit for Julie
615
00:30:24,020 --> 00:30:26,763
is ready: an embroidered white jacket.
616
00:30:28,033 --> 00:30:31,950
(speaking in foreign language)
617
00:30:33,660 --> 00:30:37,172
The head of the tailoring section is Kamil Arslom.
618
00:30:37,172 --> 00:30:38,720
(dramatic music)
619
00:30:38,720 --> 00:30:42,637
(speaking in foreign language)
620
00:30:48,310 --> 00:30:49,770
What's happening there?
621
00:30:49,770 --> 00:30:52,040
Um, I don't know, to be honest.
622
00:30:52,040 --> 00:30:52,900
No one told me anything.
623
00:30:52,900 --> 00:30:54,770
But I'm just changing looks, so
624
00:30:54,770 --> 00:30:56,230
either means they want something else
625
00:30:56,230 --> 00:30:58,470
or they just want to see something else one me.
626
00:30:58,470 --> 00:31:01,220
Julie is now being tried out in a dress.
627
00:31:01,220 --> 00:31:03,370
So, for the moment, the white jacket
628
00:31:03,370 --> 00:31:05,570
will have to be fitted on a different model.
629
00:31:07,524 --> 00:31:11,607
(conversing in foreign language)
630
00:31:26,922 --> 00:31:29,663
With Couture, you have to be a shrink,
631
00:31:29,663 --> 00:31:30,680
you have to be--
632
00:31:30,680 --> 00:31:31,620
You know, it's true.
633
00:31:31,620 --> 00:31:33,227
Explain shrink.
634
00:31:33,227 --> 00:31:34,303
Why psychiatry or psychology?
635
00:31:34,303 --> 00:31:36,610
Because every woman in the world,
636
00:31:36,610 --> 00:31:41,120
even very rich, she has problems in life, you know?
637
00:31:41,120 --> 00:31:44,200
When she arrive and she make a face like that,
638
00:31:44,200 --> 00:31:46,830
we know that we have to be very careful
639
00:31:46,830 --> 00:31:49,580
and we have to cheer them up.
640
00:31:49,580 --> 00:31:53,150
You know, this is in a nice outfit
641
00:31:53,150 --> 00:31:55,870
and they look great, they are happy.
642
00:31:55,870 --> 00:31:59,820
Plus, you know, you create some nice relationship.
643
00:31:59,820 --> 00:32:01,960
We know their life, we know their children,
644
00:32:01,960 --> 00:32:03,780
we know where they live.
645
00:32:03,780 --> 00:32:08,170
But you know, we are very, very confidential.
646
00:32:08,170 --> 00:32:11,740
There is not one single information
647
00:32:11,740 --> 00:32:14,440
which is coming out from the Haute Couture department.
648
00:32:16,610 --> 00:32:17,877
Very important.
649
00:32:18,940 --> 00:32:21,520
We have to adapt to the new way of living,
650
00:32:21,520 --> 00:32:25,420
on the new client, anything.
651
00:32:25,420 --> 00:32:26,510
New economy.
652
00:32:27,590 --> 00:32:30,671
Why is and why is not anymore, how we came to us
653
00:32:30,671 --> 00:32:32,750
from this country to the other.
654
00:32:32,750 --> 00:32:34,990
It's an all, you know?
655
00:32:34,990 --> 00:32:37,720
Dior has not been afraid of radical change.
656
00:32:37,720 --> 00:32:40,890
In 1996, it appointed the most controversial name
657
00:32:40,890 --> 00:32:44,823
in the fashion firmament: British designer John Galliano.
658
00:32:46,640 --> 00:32:50,980
An enfant terrible takes over at French Couture.
659
00:32:50,980 --> 00:32:53,800
And I think that what you see with Galliano
660
00:32:53,800 --> 00:32:58,800
was this sense of clothes as drama, clothes as spectacle.
661
00:33:00,291 --> 00:33:04,124
(intriguing electronic music)
662
00:33:05,560 --> 00:33:10,560
At his very best, Galliano was a huge success as a designer,
663
00:33:11,080 --> 00:33:16,080
and Dior's profits just spiraled at his worst.
664
00:33:17,260 --> 00:33:22,260
He was very provocative and made people extremely angry.
665
00:33:27,800 --> 00:33:29,240
I suppose the one that hit me most
666
00:33:29,240 --> 00:33:32,460
was the one of the tramps.
667
00:33:32,460 --> 00:33:36,600
The idea of taking people who had no homes,
668
00:33:36,600 --> 00:33:40,680
who were basically dressing themselves in bits of garbage,
669
00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:41,740
it's pretty extraordinary
670
00:33:41,740 --> 00:33:44,820
for a House that belonged to Couture.
671
00:33:44,820 --> 00:33:46,570
But it certainly, I don't know whether
672
00:33:46,570 --> 00:33:48,600
it made the tills ring, but it certainly
673
00:33:48,600 --> 00:33:51,063
made everybody think about Christian Dior.
674
00:33:52,270 --> 00:33:55,050
But in 2011, John Galliano
675
00:33:55,050 --> 00:33:57,580
crashed and burned spectacularly.
676
00:33:57,580 --> 00:34:00,790
After a drunken, anti-Semitic rant was caught on camera,
677
00:34:00,790 --> 00:34:03,773
he was sacked by Chief Executive Sidney Toledano.
678
00:34:06,700 --> 00:34:08,350
A sleek minimalism was brought in
679
00:34:08,350 --> 00:34:12,480
by Toledano's next appointment: Belgian Raf Simons.
680
00:34:12,480 --> 00:34:15,387
But after just three years, Simons resigned,
681
00:34:15,387 --> 00:34:17,640
citing the pressure of work.
682
00:34:17,640 --> 00:34:20,813
The demands of designing for Dior are too great for some.
683
00:34:24,360 --> 00:34:25,920
Back in Avenue Montaigne,
684
00:34:25,920 --> 00:34:28,170
it's the night before the Haute Couture show.
685
00:34:29,110 --> 00:34:31,260
Flow and Kamil are battling it out
686
00:34:31,260 --> 00:34:34,480
to see who has to make the least number of alterations.
687
00:34:34,480 --> 00:34:37,820
They can't finish until the designers make decisions.
688
00:34:37,820 --> 00:34:40,791
Which model will wear which outfit?
689
00:34:40,791 --> 00:34:44,874
(conversing in foreign language)
690
00:34:47,058 --> 00:34:49,308
(laughing)
691
00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:17,290
The model Flo wants to keep is Sophia from Russia.
692
00:35:17,290 --> 00:35:18,230
You're being fought over.
693
00:35:18,230 --> 00:35:19,950
Have you understood that?
694
00:35:19,950 --> 00:35:22,329
No, I didn't. (chuckles)
695
00:35:22,329 --> 00:35:23,162
Do you speak French?
696
00:35:23,162 --> 00:35:24,420
No, not at all.
697
00:35:24,420 --> 00:35:25,709
I want to keep you.
698
00:35:25,709 --> 00:35:26,542
Oh, thank you.
699
00:35:26,542 --> 00:35:27,434
Okay?
Yes.
700
00:35:27,434 --> 00:35:28,293
Voila.
701
00:35:28,293 --> 00:35:30,876
(gentle music)
702
00:35:36,014 --> 00:35:40,097
(conversing in foreign language)
703
00:36:23,472 --> 00:36:26,910
(bright electronic music)
704
00:36:26,910 --> 00:36:29,660
It's the day of Dior's Haute Couture show.
705
00:36:30,820 --> 00:36:33,940
Serge and Lucie's designs are about to be unveiled
706
00:36:33,940 --> 00:36:37,303
to some of Dior's richest and most important clients.
707
00:36:39,500 --> 00:36:42,200
All the top models are back stage.
708
00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:45,010
Bella Hadid, who now has one and a half million
709
00:36:45,010 --> 00:36:47,510
more Instagram followers than she did at Blenheim.
710
00:36:48,400 --> 00:36:51,550
Julie Hoomans is now about 50 years through her book,
711
00:36:51,550 --> 00:36:53,050
One Hundred Years of Solitude.
712
00:36:56,660 --> 00:37:00,180
And Julia Nobis, whom Vogue calls the runway's
713
00:37:00,180 --> 00:37:03,513
most wanted model, has just flown in from Australia.
714
00:37:04,445 --> 00:37:07,893
I'm tall, I'm skinny, I'm apparently not hideous.
715
00:37:08,880 --> 00:37:10,623
People like like, and so, cool.
716
00:37:11,480 --> 00:37:14,470
Julia started in the business when she was 17
717
00:37:14,470 --> 00:37:16,680
and has just turned 24.
718
00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:19,210
I sent in my applications to medical school
719
00:37:19,210 --> 00:37:22,230
the other week, so we'll see how that goes.
720
00:37:22,230 --> 00:37:23,880
And I guess that'll kind of determine
721
00:37:23,880 --> 00:37:27,550
how much longer I have. (chuckles)
722
00:37:27,550 --> 00:37:30,410
As the newly-signed face of Dior makeup,
723
00:37:30,410 --> 00:37:32,220
Bella Hadid gets the magic touch
724
00:37:32,220 --> 00:37:35,133
of the makeup boss himself, Peter Philips.
725
00:37:44,720 --> 00:37:46,850
Up in the workshop, many of the outfits
726
00:37:46,850 --> 00:37:49,193
for the show are still not finished.
727
00:37:50,969 --> 00:37:55,052
(conversing in foreign language)
728
00:38:21,033 --> 00:38:24,866
(intriguing electronic music)
729
00:38:32,302 --> 00:38:33,780
In the backstage dressing room,
730
00:38:33,780 --> 00:38:36,180
the models are reunited with the unique outfits
731
00:38:36,180 --> 00:38:39,933
chosen for them and, in some cases, sewn in.
732
00:38:54,749 --> 00:38:56,730
And then, you know, it's a little revealing.
733
00:38:56,730 --> 00:38:57,920
A smidge.
734
00:38:57,920 --> 00:38:59,080
Got my single nipple.
735
00:38:59,080 --> 00:39:01,430
Only one, though, not the both.
736
00:39:01,430 --> 00:39:03,160
But, you know.
737
00:39:03,160 --> 00:39:04,320
I'm hapy with just one nipple.
738
00:39:04,320 --> 00:39:05,550
I mean, I like a single nipple.
739
00:39:05,550 --> 00:39:06,383
Why not?
740
00:39:09,009 --> 00:39:10,003
Yes.
Thank you!
741
00:39:13,020 --> 00:39:14,210
This embroidery is insane.
742
00:39:14,210 --> 00:39:15,990
It's the details.
I know.
743
00:39:15,990 --> 00:39:17,233
The details are crazy.
744
00:39:18,640 --> 00:39:22,070
This show is not for the fashion editors.
745
00:39:22,070 --> 00:39:23,930
The specially-invited guests are people
746
00:39:23,930 --> 00:39:27,480
you normally never see: seriously rich clients
747
00:39:27,480 --> 00:39:29,260
who can spend, in some cases,
748
00:39:29,260 --> 00:39:32,023
hundreds of thousands a year and Dior couture.
749
00:39:33,740 --> 00:39:36,240
The hallowed staircase they climb is the one
750
00:39:36,240 --> 00:39:39,203
where Christian Dior himself showed his collections.
751
00:39:40,980 --> 00:39:44,410
Despite predictions of its death, in a select few Houses
752
00:39:44,410 --> 00:39:47,880
that still do it, couture is going strong.
753
00:39:47,880 --> 00:39:50,513
The customers just come from different places.
754
00:39:51,950 --> 00:39:55,580
These are the people on whom the future of couture depends
755
00:39:55,580 --> 00:39:58,293
and with whom Catherine Riviere deals.
756
00:39:59,670 --> 00:40:02,370
Dinner is great for the image of the House.
757
00:40:02,370 --> 00:40:05,460
It's very important, because it's really
758
00:40:05,460 --> 00:40:07,393
the window of Maison Dior.
759
00:40:08,340 --> 00:40:13,340
So, if the feedback is good, if the reviews are good,
760
00:40:13,840 --> 00:40:17,420
it's good for all of the product of the House,
761
00:40:17,420 --> 00:40:19,287
which is important.
762
00:40:19,287 --> 00:40:23,120
(intriguing electronic music)
763
00:40:24,665 --> 00:40:26,110
Victoria.
764
00:40:26,110 --> 00:40:26,943
Victoria.
765
00:40:30,320 --> 00:40:32,900
Every last speck of dust and stray hair
766
00:40:32,900 --> 00:40:36,927
are removed before the models descend the famous staircase.
767
00:40:37,984 --> 00:40:41,817
(intriguing electronic music)
768
00:41:58,760 --> 00:42:01,177
(applauding)
769
00:42:07,141 --> 00:42:10,003
And in just over 10 minutes, the whole show is over.
770
00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:19,423
One flight down, its staff drinks.
771
00:42:20,887 --> 00:42:24,970
(conversing in foreign language)
772
00:42:44,696 --> 00:42:49,110
(intriguing electronic music)
773
00:42:49,110 --> 00:42:51,903
For the after-show dinner, no expense is spared.
774
00:42:52,870 --> 00:42:55,280
Monsieur Toledano and Dior have hired
775
00:42:55,280 --> 00:42:57,750
no less than the palace of Versailles
776
00:42:57,750 --> 00:43:00,173
to impress their most important clients.
777
00:43:09,230 --> 00:43:13,770
Dior's owner, Bernard Arnault, the sun king of today,
778
00:43:13,770 --> 00:43:15,970
is here to meet and greet them.
779
00:43:15,970 --> 00:43:17,273
I love Haute Couture.
780
00:43:18,270 --> 00:43:21,447
But I have to find a particular piece.
781
00:43:21,447 --> 00:43:22,464
Right.
782
00:43:22,464 --> 00:43:24,410
And did you see anything today?
783
00:43:24,410 --> 00:43:26,530
I saw a lot of treasures.
784
00:43:26,530 --> 00:43:30,093
And I have to go and see them in person, by appointment.
785
00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:32,550
So I will do that.
786
00:43:32,550 --> 00:43:33,860
Will you be doing that soon?
787
00:43:33,860 --> 00:43:35,843
This week, before I leave.
788
00:43:35,843 --> 00:43:36,676
Fantastic.
789
00:43:36,676 --> 00:43:37,754
Where do you live?
790
00:43:37,754 --> 00:43:39,357
I live in Houston, Texas.
791
00:43:39,357 --> 00:43:41,940
(bright music)
792
00:43:43,810 --> 00:43:45,260
Dinner is on the stage
793
00:43:45,260 --> 00:43:47,760
of the palace's opera house.
794
00:43:47,760 --> 00:43:52,230
Louis XIV himself performed on this very stage as Apollo,
795
00:43:52,230 --> 00:43:56,530
the sun god, and became known as the Sun King.
796
00:43:56,530 --> 00:44:00,393
Dior know how to make these clients feel like royalty.
797
00:44:06,780 --> 00:44:09,270
Next morning, it's back to work.
798
00:44:09,270 --> 00:44:11,520
The show has been hailed a success,
799
00:44:11,520 --> 00:44:13,270
but the press is abuzz with rumors
800
00:44:13,270 --> 00:44:15,540
that the new designer has been appointed,
801
00:44:15,540 --> 00:44:19,775
just in time for Paris fashion week, 10 weeks away.
802
00:44:19,775 --> 00:44:24,660
(conversing in foreign language)
803
00:44:24,660 --> 00:44:25,580
How was it yesterday?
804
00:44:25,580 --> 00:44:26,413
Excellent.
805
00:44:26,413 --> 00:44:27,246
The press was--
806
00:44:27,246 --> 00:44:29,630
The press, excellent, and the clients.
807
00:44:29,630 --> 00:44:30,463
Ah.
808
00:44:30,463 --> 00:44:31,296
They're coming.
809
00:44:31,296 --> 00:44:32,129
Very important.
810
00:44:32,129 --> 00:44:32,962
Absolutely.
811
00:44:32,962 --> 00:44:33,795
Absolutely.
812
00:44:33,795 --> 00:44:34,628
They're coming in today?
813
00:44:34,628 --> 00:44:35,490
Absolutely.
814
00:44:35,490 --> 00:44:36,998
Very well, very well.
815
00:44:36,998 --> 00:44:39,320
And one more question I have to ask.
816
00:44:39,320 --> 00:44:41,427
I have a guy waiting for me.
817
00:44:41,427 --> 00:44:43,993
But the new designer, is there much talk?
818
00:44:46,070 --> 00:44:47,250
Quiet.
819
00:44:47,250 --> 00:44:48,083
Thank you.
820
00:44:49,010 --> 00:44:51,590
Next day, Mr. Toledano announces
821
00:44:51,590 --> 00:44:53,390
that the new creative director
822
00:44:53,390 --> 00:44:56,576
will be the first woman in the roll in Dior's history.
823
00:44:56,576 --> 00:44:58,560
(dramatic electronic music)
824
00:44:58,560 --> 00:45:02,270
Next time, Maria Grazia Chiuri arrives,
825
00:45:02,270 --> 00:45:04,840
with only weeks to put together her first show,
826
00:45:04,840 --> 00:45:06,703
which attracts the stars.
827
00:45:08,084 --> 00:45:11,037
(crowd cheering)
828
00:45:11,037 --> 00:45:14,704
(dramatic electronic music)
61552