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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,290 --> 00:00:02,060 (intriguing electronic music) 2 00:00:02,060 --> 00:00:05,093 Its name spells luxury, glamor, and style. 3 00:00:06,070 --> 00:00:08,970 Its clothes are worn by the world's most beautiful women. 4 00:00:08,970 --> 00:00:10,550 Fabulous dress. 5 00:00:10,550 --> 00:00:11,383 Thank you. 6 00:00:12,670 --> 00:00:14,840 Dior is a billion-dollar brand 7 00:00:14,840 --> 00:00:18,570 spanning beauty, perfume, hand bags, 8 00:00:18,570 --> 00:00:20,653 and dresses worth tens of thousands. 9 00:00:21,689 --> 00:00:23,520 Its embroidery is insane. 10 00:00:23,520 --> 00:00:26,070 Over 70 years, Dior's designers 11 00:00:26,070 --> 00:00:28,920 have been some of the biggest in the business. 12 00:00:28,920 --> 00:00:31,920 As they now search for a new creative director, 13 00:00:31,920 --> 00:00:35,380 we have privileged access to the people who decide 14 00:00:35,380 --> 00:00:37,583 and the super-rich who buy their clothes. 15 00:00:40,930 --> 00:00:43,790 Join us inside this exclusive world 16 00:00:43,790 --> 00:00:46,323 as we discover the fabulous frocks ... 17 00:00:49,070 --> 00:00:51,170 scandals ... 18 00:00:51,170 --> 00:00:53,050 and ruthless business decisions 19 00:00:53,050 --> 00:00:54,950 which have kept Dior in the headlines. 20 00:00:56,281 --> 00:00:57,863 The courting of celebrities. 21 00:00:59,070 --> 00:01:00,883 The importance of underwear. 22 00:01:02,620 --> 00:01:05,220 And the psyches of the rich. 23 00:01:05,220 --> 00:01:09,580 Even very rich, she has problems in life. 24 00:01:14,647 --> 00:01:17,647 (upbeat jazz music) 25 00:01:19,000 --> 00:01:20,380 La Coeur Noir. 26 00:01:20,380 --> 00:01:24,070 Christian Dior's luxurious refuge in the south of France, 27 00:01:24,070 --> 00:01:26,993 away from the frenetic world of Paris fashion. 28 00:01:28,390 --> 00:01:30,070 Not the home you'd imagine of someone 29 00:01:30,070 --> 00:01:32,133 who started a fashion revolution. 30 00:01:35,150 --> 00:01:37,010 1947. 31 00:01:37,010 --> 00:01:40,580 Paris is still struggling with post-war austerity. 32 00:01:40,580 --> 00:01:43,190 After years in which fabrics were rationed, 33 00:01:43,190 --> 00:01:46,610 Dior uses luxurious swathes of material 34 00:01:46,610 --> 00:01:50,660 to create a new look, which changes the way women dress 35 00:01:50,660 --> 00:01:52,623 and shocks them the world over. 36 00:01:54,290 --> 00:01:55,910 Here, for example, are some new evening gowns 37 00:01:55,910 --> 00:01:58,610 for the summer season of 1948. 38 00:01:58,610 --> 00:02:00,380 They're designed by Christian Dior, 39 00:02:00,380 --> 00:02:02,170 the originator of the new look, 40 00:02:02,170 --> 00:02:04,910 though he disclaims the credit for inventing the name. 41 00:02:04,910 --> 00:02:07,620 These new dresses, he says, have the very latest line: 42 00:02:07,620 --> 00:02:10,800 small waists, full hips, irregular hem lines, 43 00:02:10,800 --> 00:02:13,163 and the fullness of the skirts unevenly spread. 44 00:02:15,270 --> 00:02:17,240 Suddenly you get these dresses 45 00:02:17,240 --> 00:02:20,430 that were not only nipped in at the waste but also full, 46 00:02:20,430 --> 00:02:23,680 these full skirts looking like dance skirts. 47 00:02:23,680 --> 00:02:25,810 It was a reminder of a previous era 48 00:02:25,810 --> 00:02:28,520 and also a shock to people who had learned 49 00:02:28,520 --> 00:02:30,810 how to be very careful with their money. 50 00:02:30,810 --> 00:02:33,860 The new line is called (foreign language), or fly away, 51 00:02:33,860 --> 00:02:35,540 all very charming, but I should think 52 00:02:35,540 --> 00:02:37,710 it would fly away with your money and your coupons. 53 00:02:37,710 --> 00:02:40,043 Just look at the amount of material in this one. 54 00:02:44,561 --> 00:02:46,210 A Dior model who was being photographed 55 00:02:46,210 --> 00:02:49,140 on the streets of Paris in the new look 56 00:02:49,140 --> 00:02:54,140 was actually attacked by some angry women passing by, 57 00:02:54,270 --> 00:02:58,365 who tore the new look apart because they were so shocked. 58 00:02:58,365 --> 00:03:00,690 (intriguing music) 59 00:03:00,690 --> 00:03:03,390 Christian Dior was an astute businessman 60 00:03:03,390 --> 00:03:05,370 who launched perfume, makeup, 61 00:03:05,370 --> 00:03:07,403 and stockings alongside clothes. 62 00:03:08,870 --> 00:03:11,870 Its cosmetics, perfume, and accessories 63 00:03:11,870 --> 00:03:14,963 which underpin the brand's commercial success. 64 00:03:16,060 --> 00:03:18,810 And at Dior's opulent country mansion, 65 00:03:18,810 --> 00:03:22,540 today's bosses are aiming to woo their fashionable guests. 66 00:03:22,540 --> 00:03:24,873 This is how Dior does things. 67 00:03:27,830 --> 00:03:29,650 This is Le Grand Diner, the Grand Dinner 68 00:03:29,650 --> 00:03:33,450 that will host the 200 people that we have tonight. 69 00:03:33,450 --> 00:03:35,450 Just facing the pool. 70 00:03:35,450 --> 00:03:38,860 Pool that Christian Dior himself designed. 71 00:03:38,860 --> 00:03:40,520 The emperor himself died 72 00:03:40,520 --> 00:03:43,530 just 10 years after founding the business, 73 00:03:43,530 --> 00:03:46,640 but his empire has learned how to exploit its past 74 00:03:46,640 --> 00:03:47,893 to cement its future. 75 00:03:49,680 --> 00:03:51,990 He's still the one that really guide us. 76 00:03:51,990 --> 00:03:54,373 He's the one that created everything. 77 00:03:55,980 --> 00:03:57,890 From the very start, he had this image of, 78 00:03:57,890 --> 00:04:02,450 and the vision of, a total brand that could really 79 00:04:02,450 --> 00:04:07,450 not only make women more beautiful but more happy as well. 80 00:04:10,097 --> 00:04:13,347 (elegant string music) 81 00:04:17,740 --> 00:04:20,780 Promoting the brand needs celebrity, 82 00:04:20,780 --> 00:04:24,680 so Dior has selected high-profile brand ambassadors, 83 00:04:24,680 --> 00:04:27,493 paid an undisclosed annual sum. 84 00:04:31,090 --> 00:04:32,970 Oscar-winning Charlize Theron, 85 00:04:32,970 --> 00:04:36,640 the face of J'adore perfume, doesn't come cheap, 86 00:04:36,640 --> 00:04:39,860 and her time is not to be wasted. 87 00:04:39,860 --> 00:04:41,033 Okay. Okay. 88 00:04:42,391 --> 00:04:43,573 We can't afford to be late. 89 00:04:44,526 --> 00:04:45,723 I understand. Okay? 90 00:04:45,723 --> 00:04:47,810 We will not be late. 91 00:04:47,810 --> 00:04:48,950 Thank you very much. 92 00:04:48,950 --> 00:04:49,783 Good evening. 93 00:04:49,783 --> 00:04:50,880 Hello, I'm Michael. 94 00:04:50,880 --> 00:04:52,122 Very nice to meet you. Pleasure to meet you. 95 00:04:52,122 --> 00:04:53,431 Thank you. 96 00:04:53,431 --> 00:04:56,514 (overlapping speech) 97 00:04:58,190 --> 00:04:59,460 Fabulous dress. 98 00:04:59,460 --> 00:05:00,293 Thank you. 99 00:05:03,060 --> 00:05:04,043 I can just turn it. 100 00:05:05,850 --> 00:05:06,683 How's that? 101 00:05:10,410 --> 00:05:12,973 I just had a pin try to kill me in this dress. 102 00:05:18,670 --> 00:05:20,192 Does this look okay? 103 00:05:20,192 --> 00:05:21,037 You're not gonna see it. 104 00:05:21,037 --> 00:05:21,940 Okay. 105 00:05:21,940 --> 00:05:23,700 This was the one thing that came my way 106 00:05:23,700 --> 00:05:24,980 right after the Academy Awards 107 00:05:24,980 --> 00:05:28,234 that I didn't have to think about. (chuckles) 108 00:05:28,234 --> 00:05:29,067 Why? 109 00:05:29,067 --> 00:05:31,650 Because, I mean, to be associated, 110 00:05:31,650 --> 00:05:35,430 or to be asked to be part of a House 111 00:05:35,430 --> 00:05:37,300 that's stood the test of time. 112 00:05:37,300 --> 00:05:41,710 I mean, say the word Dior, and it resonates a lot of things, 113 00:05:41,710 --> 00:05:43,520 especially for a woman. 114 00:05:43,520 --> 00:05:45,180 He loved women. 115 00:05:45,180 --> 00:05:46,553 He just loved women. 116 00:05:47,880 --> 00:05:49,410 I know I don't know him personally, 117 00:05:49,410 --> 00:05:53,130 but I can't believe somebody can design 118 00:05:53,130 --> 00:05:55,880 everything that he's designed for this House 119 00:05:55,880 --> 00:05:58,693 and not be absolutely in love with women. 120 00:06:00,970 --> 00:06:03,054 If you had the opportunity, 121 00:06:03,054 --> 00:06:06,033 and if things changed, would you like to live here? 122 00:06:06,033 --> 00:06:07,850 Live in this House? 123 00:06:07,850 --> 00:06:09,613 I'll definitely take it. (chuckles) 124 00:06:09,613 --> 00:06:11,360 (whimsical music) 125 00:06:11,360 --> 00:06:13,950 Dior's owner, Bernard Arnault, 126 00:06:13,950 --> 00:06:15,763 is the richest man in France. 127 00:06:16,780 --> 00:06:20,160 His LVMH luxury empire made a profit 128 00:06:20,160 --> 00:06:23,713 of 6.6 billion euros in 2015. 129 00:06:25,412 --> 00:06:28,670 The placement at this dinner is careful. 130 00:06:28,670 --> 00:06:31,113 Two or three top French actresses nearby, 131 00:06:32,120 --> 00:06:34,300 Sidney Toledano, the Chief Executive 132 00:06:34,300 --> 00:06:36,600 of the fashion side of the business, opposite. 133 00:06:39,298 --> 00:06:41,920 And on his right, the star guest, 134 00:06:41,920 --> 00:06:43,793 fashionably late, Charlize. 135 00:06:45,268 --> 00:06:46,101 Hi, hello, everybody. 136 00:06:49,480 --> 00:06:51,570 Although she is of course wearing the brand 137 00:06:51,570 --> 00:06:54,410 she promotes, a sniff of the real thing 138 00:06:54,410 --> 00:06:57,193 for the man who has everything can't go amiss. 139 00:07:03,667 --> 00:07:05,000 Yeah, exactly. 140 00:07:06,915 --> 00:07:08,060 (glass clinking) 141 00:07:08,060 --> 00:07:11,576 Speaking of beauty, I would like to thank Charlize Theron, 142 00:07:11,576 --> 00:07:14,663 who has honored us by his presence this evening. 143 00:07:14,663 --> 00:07:15,496 Charlize. 144 00:07:15,496 --> 00:07:17,913 (applauding) 145 00:07:26,000 --> 00:07:29,100 (romantic orchestral music) 146 00:07:29,100 --> 00:07:30,780 Blenheim Palace, one of the most beautiful 147 00:07:30,780 --> 00:07:32,560 and historic stately homes in England, 148 00:07:32,560 --> 00:07:34,730 is visited by Princess Margaret. 149 00:07:34,730 --> 00:07:36,190 She is attending a fashion show 150 00:07:36,190 --> 00:07:37,750 held in aid of the Red Cross, 151 00:07:37,750 --> 00:07:40,900 which features the new winter collection of Christian Dior. 152 00:07:40,900 --> 00:07:42,910 Her Royal Highness chats with the famous designer, 153 00:07:42,910 --> 00:07:45,570 who has brought 13 of his top mannequins to the show, 154 00:07:45,570 --> 00:07:48,320 and his new H line, and this is it. 155 00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:50,273 H for horrid or heavenly. 156 00:07:53,030 --> 00:07:56,910 In 1954, Christian Dior did a very important 157 00:07:56,910 --> 00:07:59,240 fashion show at Blenheim Palace. 158 00:07:59,240 --> 00:08:04,240 It brings together that sense of French style 159 00:08:04,290 --> 00:08:08,690 but also the British aristocracy and British royalty. 160 00:08:08,690 --> 00:08:12,480 And Princess Margaret is very important in this story, 161 00:08:12,480 --> 00:08:15,490 because she's already a fan of Christian Dior. 162 00:08:15,490 --> 00:08:18,410 She ordered a number of dresses from Dior, 163 00:08:18,410 --> 00:08:21,960 including what became her favorite ever dress, 164 00:08:21,960 --> 00:08:25,690 which is her 21st birthday, long white dress, 165 00:08:25,690 --> 00:08:28,730 and she's photographed by Cecil Beaton in the dress, 166 00:08:28,730 --> 00:08:31,859 and she looks like a fairytale princess. 167 00:08:31,859 --> 00:08:33,040 (regal music) 168 00:08:33,040 --> 00:08:35,270 The pressure of today's fashion calendar 169 00:08:35,270 --> 00:08:36,720 is inexorable. 170 00:08:36,720 --> 00:08:39,580 Dior have to turn out seven collections a year. 171 00:08:39,580 --> 00:08:42,100 And for their latest, they've decided to return 172 00:08:42,100 --> 00:08:45,223 to the scene of their former triumph: Blenheim Palace. 173 00:08:49,290 --> 00:08:52,123 A vintage train is hired for the glitzy guests. 174 00:08:53,840 --> 00:08:55,310 Some seem less comfortable 175 00:08:55,310 --> 00:08:57,317 in their temporary outfits than others. 176 00:09:00,112 --> 00:09:03,945 (intriguing electronic music) 177 00:09:05,150 --> 00:09:08,160 As the VIP train trundles towards Blenheim, 178 00:09:08,160 --> 00:09:10,780 Dior have hired a less glamorous form of transport 179 00:09:10,780 --> 00:09:13,540 to make sure the models, some of the most sought after 180 00:09:13,540 --> 00:09:15,513 in the business, get there on time. 181 00:09:22,320 --> 00:09:25,600 Every aspiring model wants to walk in a Dior show, 182 00:09:25,600 --> 00:09:27,510 but however glamorous it may seem, 183 00:09:27,510 --> 00:09:30,420 the reality is all very no-nonsense. 184 00:09:30,420 --> 00:09:32,140 The 55 models are whisked 185 00:09:32,140 --> 00:09:34,133 straight to the route they'll be taking. 186 00:09:38,860 --> 00:09:42,190 The palace passes in a haze as they go through their paces 187 00:09:42,190 --> 00:09:45,793 on the catwalk before being rushed to hair and makeup. 188 00:09:48,980 --> 00:09:51,693 Dior's exalted makeup chief is waiting for them. 189 00:09:58,980 --> 00:10:01,220 I went for this color block, this brown, 190 00:10:01,220 --> 00:10:03,930 chocolate brown eye shadow, just to create 191 00:10:03,930 --> 00:10:07,680 almost like a military, very specific catwalk look, 192 00:10:07,680 --> 00:10:10,890 so the girls would stand out in this very rich, 193 00:10:10,890 --> 00:10:12,730 historic environment. 194 00:10:12,730 --> 00:10:13,910 You, I don't think, 195 00:10:13,910 --> 00:10:17,167 for my innocent eye, have any makeup on now. 196 00:10:17,167 --> 00:10:18,270 Uh-huh. Do you? 197 00:10:18,270 --> 00:10:20,810 Well, I'm a very shiny person, 198 00:10:20,810 --> 00:10:22,960 so they keep telling me to powder. 199 00:10:22,960 --> 00:10:24,150 And have you got a little bit? 200 00:10:24,150 --> 00:10:26,150 Yes, but it keeps shining through, 201 00:10:26,150 --> 00:10:28,130 so it's hopeless, I'm hopeless. 202 00:10:28,130 --> 00:10:31,390 I'm too shiny. (chuckles) 203 00:10:31,390 --> 00:10:33,290 Marketing is all. 204 00:10:33,290 --> 00:10:36,080 And with social media playing an increasing part, 205 00:10:36,080 --> 00:10:39,000 19-year-old American model Bella Hadid, 206 00:10:39,000 --> 00:10:42,050 who has 5.7 million Instagram followers, 207 00:10:42,050 --> 00:10:44,993 has been chosen to be a beauty ambassador for the brand. 208 00:10:46,630 --> 00:10:47,750 It's nice to have makeup in a show 209 00:10:47,750 --> 00:10:49,390 that you feel comfortable in, 210 00:10:49,390 --> 00:10:51,570 and I love this makeup, so I'm excited. 211 00:10:51,570 --> 00:10:52,834 And the hair? 212 00:10:52,834 --> 00:10:54,720 The hair, I mean, I love a good slick-back, 213 00:10:54,720 --> 00:10:57,060 but the gel is just now drying, 214 00:10:57,060 --> 00:11:01,883 so it's a little bit crunchy, but I love the way it looks. 215 00:11:04,320 --> 00:11:05,320 Returning to Blenheim 216 00:11:05,320 --> 00:11:07,493 is a clever move by the Dior machine. 217 00:11:08,710 --> 00:11:09,960 With the all-important decision 218 00:11:09,960 --> 00:11:13,010 about their new name designer still being made, 219 00:11:13,010 --> 00:11:14,783 it's the venue which is the story. 220 00:11:16,030 --> 00:11:19,430 Today is a big moment for the two in-House designers 221 00:11:19,430 --> 00:11:21,280 who've been promoted to fill the gap, 222 00:11:22,380 --> 00:11:24,833 Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux. 223 00:11:25,920 --> 00:11:28,130 As they watch the final rehearsal, 224 00:11:28,130 --> 00:11:30,893 the fashion world waits to see how they will do. 225 00:11:32,830 --> 00:11:35,450 Dior fashion boss Sidney Toledano 226 00:11:35,450 --> 00:11:37,840 is the man who will make the big decision 227 00:11:37,840 --> 00:11:40,670 about who to hire as the new designer. 228 00:11:40,670 --> 00:11:43,130 In terms of designer, first of all 229 00:11:43,130 --> 00:11:45,490 I observe what's going on, I see. 230 00:11:45,490 --> 00:11:47,760 You have to know what is needed, 231 00:11:47,760 --> 00:11:50,840 what are the means you're offering, 232 00:11:50,840 --> 00:11:52,750 and what would be the person 233 00:11:52,750 --> 00:11:57,240 understanding the brand in terms of history, tradition, 234 00:11:57,240 --> 00:12:01,530 able to lead at a very high level, the challenges. 235 00:12:01,530 --> 00:12:04,210 But they could be young, could be-- 236 00:12:04,210 --> 00:12:07,600 It's not a question of age but inspiring 237 00:12:07,600 --> 00:12:10,360 and giving the tone what will be 238 00:12:10,360 --> 00:12:12,453 the vision of the person for the future. 239 00:12:13,810 --> 00:12:14,760 Try one more time. 240 00:12:14,760 --> 00:12:15,900 So start here. 241 00:12:15,900 --> 00:12:17,640 While Mr. Toledano wrestles 242 00:12:17,640 --> 00:12:19,970 with the future direction of the company 243 00:12:19,970 --> 00:12:21,850 with an all-important Haute Couture show 244 00:12:21,850 --> 00:12:24,360 to come in just five weeks' time, 245 00:12:24,360 --> 00:12:26,980 one young model is being given last-minute tips 246 00:12:26,980 --> 00:12:29,630 by casting director Anita Bitton 247 00:12:29,630 --> 00:12:33,600 on the fine art of changing direction on the catwalk. 248 00:12:33,600 --> 00:12:36,070 Another step into it so you're not so ... 249 00:12:36,070 --> 00:12:37,826 So you're not turning around. 250 00:12:37,826 --> 00:12:39,260 That's it! 251 00:12:39,260 --> 00:12:40,160 Okay. Yeah. 252 00:12:40,160 --> 00:12:41,123 Try one more time. 253 00:12:47,542 --> 00:12:48,840 (clapping) 254 00:12:48,840 --> 00:12:50,280 Okay, take the shoes off. 255 00:12:50,280 --> 00:12:51,460 Yeah. (chuckles) 256 00:12:51,460 --> 00:12:52,860 Can I ask, were you finding it 257 00:12:52,860 --> 00:12:54,705 difficult to turn around? 258 00:12:54,705 --> 00:12:55,538 Oh. 259 00:12:55,538 --> 00:12:57,550 It's my first time, so ... 260 00:12:57,550 --> 00:12:58,383 Really? 261 00:12:58,383 --> 00:12:59,259 Yeah. Exciting. 262 00:12:59,259 --> 00:13:00,092 Yeah. 263 00:13:00,092 --> 00:13:01,000 She's never done a show before. 264 00:13:02,085 --> 00:13:03,690 Have you ever done a casting before? 265 00:13:03,690 --> 00:13:05,180 No. No. 266 00:13:05,180 --> 00:13:07,630 So everything is new. Yeah, everything. 267 00:13:07,630 --> 00:13:09,090 Where are you from, might I ask? 268 00:13:09,090 --> 00:13:10,780 Denmark. Aha. 269 00:13:10,780 --> 00:13:12,312 Can I ask how old you are? 270 00:13:12,312 --> 00:13:13,145 15. 271 00:13:16,122 --> 00:13:18,880 (regal brass music) 272 00:13:18,880 --> 00:13:21,670 Dior are on the hunt for a new top designer, 273 00:13:21,670 --> 00:13:24,400 but the shows must go on, and for this one, 274 00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:26,350 they've hired Blenheim Palace, 275 00:13:26,350 --> 00:13:29,690 with a 60-piece brass fanfare to herald the guests, 276 00:13:29,690 --> 00:13:31,600 and a battalion of butlers. 277 00:13:38,640 --> 00:13:42,200 Christian Dior himself knew a thing or two about marketing. 278 00:13:42,200 --> 00:13:43,800 When he took a collection from Paris 279 00:13:43,800 --> 00:13:47,110 to show at Blenheim Palace in front of British royalty, 280 00:13:47,110 --> 00:13:48,795 it made quite an impact. 281 00:13:48,795 --> 00:13:50,190 (romantic orchestral music) 282 00:13:50,190 --> 00:13:52,210 Next, a creation called Peru. 283 00:13:52,210 --> 00:13:53,800 A yellow satin coat lined with fur 284 00:13:53,800 --> 00:13:57,133 over a jewel dress that took 600 hours to embroider. 285 00:13:58,390 --> 00:13:59,810 Do you mind walking towards me? 286 00:13:59,810 --> 00:14:02,120 Former ballerina Svetlana Lloyd 287 00:14:02,120 --> 00:14:04,830 was an in-House mannequin for Christian Dior. 288 00:14:04,830 --> 00:14:06,863 She walked for Dior in the '50s. 289 00:14:08,190 --> 00:14:09,282 It doesn't. 290 00:14:09,282 --> 00:14:11,038 You've still got it. 291 00:14:11,038 --> 00:14:11,871 Definitely. 292 00:14:11,871 --> 00:14:13,043 (chuckling) 293 00:14:13,043 --> 00:14:14,720 What was he like, Mr. Dior? 294 00:14:14,720 --> 00:14:18,000 Monsieur Dior had a very high-pitched voice. 295 00:14:18,000 --> 00:14:19,820 He appeared always shy. 296 00:14:19,820 --> 00:14:23,950 And he also, in a very gentle, subtle way, 297 00:14:23,950 --> 00:14:26,320 knew exactly what he wanted, 298 00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:28,750 and he didn't need to raise his voice, 299 00:14:28,750 --> 00:14:31,150 he didn't need to throw a tantrum, 300 00:14:31,150 --> 00:14:34,430 he didn't need anything except to say, 301 00:14:34,430 --> 00:14:37,490 in the softest possible way, what he wanted, 302 00:14:37,490 --> 00:14:41,260 and it was done, and he had wonderful ideas 303 00:14:41,260 --> 00:14:44,500 on how to follow through whatever he wanted, 304 00:14:44,500 --> 00:14:47,750 so that the execution of it was perfect. 305 00:14:47,750 --> 00:14:51,070 He said that what he really wanted in life 306 00:14:51,070 --> 00:14:55,640 was to make clothes for decently-clothed 307 00:14:55,640 --> 00:14:59,223 members of the good society, and that's all. 308 00:15:00,560 --> 00:15:03,820 He would say, "That shoulder needs doing something." 309 00:15:03,820 --> 00:15:06,010 And instead of pointing as you and I would, 310 00:15:06,010 --> 00:15:08,860 he had a little stick that actually reached, 311 00:15:08,860 --> 00:15:12,090 and then he would say, "About there, and about here," 312 00:15:12,090 --> 00:15:14,930 as you might with a finger, except that a finger 313 00:15:14,930 --> 00:15:18,173 would be a little too near and too intimate. 314 00:15:19,870 --> 00:15:22,950 The style of showing is completely different now 315 00:15:22,950 --> 00:15:24,810 than it was before. 316 00:15:24,810 --> 00:15:28,500 We had the so-called French couture style. 317 00:15:28,500 --> 00:15:30,433 The idea was to glide. 318 00:15:31,620 --> 00:15:35,930 Nowadays, the idea is to walk ... 319 00:15:35,930 --> 00:15:37,063 decidedly. 320 00:15:37,980 --> 00:15:40,740 There was no emphasis on hips at all, 321 00:15:40,740 --> 00:15:45,500 so that you did the glide, the couture glide. 322 00:15:45,500 --> 00:15:48,951 Today's models adopt a very different style. 323 00:15:48,951 --> 00:15:51,420 In the old days, it used to be more like, 324 00:15:51,420 --> 00:15:53,833 you know, like more like a woman, 325 00:15:54,670 --> 00:15:57,260 almost floating through the room, yeah. 326 00:15:57,260 --> 00:15:58,160 Now, that changed a lot. 327 00:15:58,160 --> 00:16:01,800 Here we all know it's quite tough and quite fast. 328 00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:03,860 But you definitely don't smile much, do you? 329 00:16:03,860 --> 00:16:04,693 No, you don't. 330 00:16:04,693 --> 00:16:06,114 You're not meant to smile. 331 00:16:06,114 --> 00:16:06,947 No. 332 00:16:06,947 --> 00:16:08,350 It's more very serious. 333 00:16:08,350 --> 00:16:09,413 Okay, here we go. 334 00:16:10,323 --> 00:16:13,083 Do it, do it. 335 00:16:13,083 --> 00:16:13,916 That's it. 336 00:16:13,916 --> 00:16:15,986 So, now, your lovely smile is inappropriate, 337 00:16:15,986 --> 00:16:16,960 is it, on the catwalk? 338 00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:18,238 Yeah, you don't do that. 339 00:16:18,238 --> 00:16:23,238 I mean, for some shows you can, but mostly not. 340 00:16:23,370 --> 00:16:25,843 So, do you mind looking at the camera, smiling, 341 00:16:25,843 --> 00:16:27,610 and then going into modern. 342 00:16:27,610 --> 00:16:29,284 So that, and then ... 343 00:16:29,284 --> 00:16:31,139 (laughing) 344 00:16:31,139 --> 00:16:32,020 (upbeat piano music) 345 00:16:32,020 --> 00:16:34,310 Dior, the company, learned fast 346 00:16:34,310 --> 00:16:37,090 how to be bigger than the man who created it. 347 00:16:37,090 --> 00:16:40,950 In 1957, just 10 years after founding the company, 348 00:16:40,950 --> 00:16:43,960 Christian Dior suddenly died of a heart attack, 349 00:16:43,960 --> 00:16:46,030 aged only 52. 350 00:16:46,030 --> 00:16:47,470 Christian Dior's death 351 00:16:47,470 --> 00:16:51,720 was totally shocking and unexpected. 352 00:16:51,720 --> 00:16:55,550 But there is this genius in place 353 00:16:55,550 --> 00:16:57,570 who is the young Yves Saint Laurent, 354 00:16:57,570 --> 00:17:02,030 who is Christian Dior's 21-year-old assistant. 355 00:17:02,030 --> 00:17:06,170 And Yves Saint Laurent steps into the master's shoes 356 00:17:06,170 --> 00:17:09,290 and is very successful very quickly. 357 00:17:09,290 --> 00:17:12,120 And there's no other moment, I would say, 358 00:17:12,120 --> 00:17:16,950 in fashion history where you get a great designer dying, 359 00:17:16,950 --> 00:17:21,350 and his successor is already at the House. 360 00:17:21,350 --> 00:17:22,990 What he had to say was quite different 361 00:17:22,990 --> 00:17:26,500 from Christian Dior, not romantic, not elegant, 362 00:17:26,500 --> 00:17:30,460 but much more feisty, much more 1960s. 363 00:17:30,460 --> 00:17:32,680 Yves Saint Laurent get his chance, too, 364 00:17:32,680 --> 00:17:35,820 at Blenheim Palace in 1958. 365 00:17:35,820 --> 00:17:36,980 You don't have to be an expert 366 00:17:36,980 --> 00:17:39,300 to see that, if there's no startling new line, 367 00:17:39,300 --> 00:17:42,130 there's the attraction of variety and, may I say, 368 00:17:42,130 --> 00:17:45,090 extravagance in these creations for the evening. 369 00:17:45,090 --> 00:17:48,757 (romantic orchestral music) 370 00:17:50,060 --> 00:17:54,103 Constantinople, a smart ensemble more Parisian than Turkish. 371 00:17:56,720 --> 00:17:58,710 The last gown presented before the princess 372 00:17:58,710 --> 00:18:00,890 was appropriately named Blenheim, 373 00:18:00,890 --> 00:18:03,340 a magnificent affair in white satin, 374 00:18:03,340 --> 00:18:05,290 with noticeably long sleeves. 375 00:18:05,290 --> 00:18:07,653 Even a stately home can be chilly in winter. 376 00:18:09,960 --> 00:18:11,410 Finally, the brilliant young designer 377 00:18:11,410 --> 00:18:13,043 was presented to the princess. 378 00:18:15,490 --> 00:18:18,548 And he, in turn, presented the 16 mannequins. 379 00:18:18,548 --> 00:18:22,000 (intriguing electronic music) 380 00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:23,690 Back in the same grand library 381 00:18:23,690 --> 00:18:25,423 in chilly Blenheim Palace today, 382 00:18:26,320 --> 00:18:29,420 in-house designers Serge and Lucie's outfits 383 00:18:29,420 --> 00:18:32,170 are revealed to the critical eyes of the fashion world. 384 00:18:46,824 --> 00:18:49,991 Will Serge and Lucie stand by. 385 00:18:53,056 --> 00:18:55,578 Serge and Lucie, go, go! 386 00:18:55,578 --> 00:18:58,013 (applauding) 387 00:18:58,013 --> 00:19:01,263 (elegant string music) 388 00:19:03,078 --> 00:19:03,911 Perfect! 389 00:19:09,020 --> 00:19:10,300 They looked quite young and fresh 390 00:19:10,300 --> 00:19:11,790 in the sporting elements. 391 00:19:11,790 --> 00:19:14,290 So that I thought they did a good job. 392 00:19:14,290 --> 00:19:15,560 It's a tough gig, isn't it, 393 00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:17,360 being the sort of interim designers? 394 00:19:18,380 --> 00:19:19,640 I don't know, because I don't know 395 00:19:19,640 --> 00:19:21,010 whether maybe they'll stay forever. 396 00:19:21,010 --> 00:19:22,820 Who knows what will happen? 397 00:19:22,820 --> 00:19:24,870 But in the world of big fashion Houses, 398 00:19:24,870 --> 00:19:28,380 don't they all need and want a big-name designer? 399 00:19:28,380 --> 00:19:30,170 I think the main thing is to have a designer 400 00:19:30,170 --> 00:19:32,100 who captures the world today. 401 00:19:32,100 --> 00:19:34,490 After all, the days when Princess Margaret 402 00:19:34,490 --> 00:19:37,270 had her great event here, and was sitting in the audience 403 00:19:37,270 --> 00:19:40,080 and looking at the clothes, it was such a different world. 404 00:19:40,080 --> 00:19:44,110 You know, the society, the sheer strength 405 00:19:44,110 --> 00:19:47,050 of the upper classes, all that's gone, faded away. 406 00:19:47,050 --> 00:19:49,480 Now they're looking, I mean Dior are looking, 407 00:19:49,480 --> 00:19:51,630 at international clients all over the world, 408 00:19:51,630 --> 00:19:53,893 so we're in a very different position. 409 00:19:55,410 --> 00:19:56,990 Even before the last crumbs 410 00:19:56,990 --> 00:19:59,160 of the magnificent Blenheim tier are eaten, 411 00:19:59,160 --> 00:20:01,560 Dior are thinking ahead to what has always been 412 00:20:01,560 --> 00:20:05,120 the biggest and most exclusive thing in their fashion year: 413 00:20:05,120 --> 00:20:07,120 the Haute Couture show. 414 00:20:07,120 --> 00:20:08,450 It will be the last collection 415 00:20:08,450 --> 00:20:11,160 before the announcement of their new designer. 416 00:20:11,160 --> 00:20:14,610 Who is the chief designer has always been a key question. 417 00:20:14,610 --> 00:20:16,690 Three years of success wasn't enough 418 00:20:16,690 --> 00:20:19,850 to keep boy genius Yves Saint Laurent in his job. 419 00:20:19,850 --> 00:20:22,120 After he was called up for military service 420 00:20:22,120 --> 00:20:25,410 in the Algerian War of Independence in 1960, 421 00:20:25,410 --> 00:20:27,550 Dior refused to have him back. 422 00:20:27,550 --> 00:20:29,930 He was replaced by the more conservative figure 423 00:20:29,930 --> 00:20:30,803 of Marc Bohan. 424 00:20:31,920 --> 00:20:34,780 Marc Bohan was kind of extraordinary. 425 00:20:34,780 --> 00:20:36,960 He introduces something, 426 00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:40,120 I would say a fluidity, to his designs. 427 00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:42,750 They're much freer, they're much more fluid. 428 00:20:42,750 --> 00:20:45,430 There's certainly no corsetry 429 00:20:45,430 --> 00:20:48,230 in the same way that Dior did. 430 00:20:48,230 --> 00:20:50,410 They're not comfortable in the sense that 431 00:20:50,410 --> 00:20:52,980 they're like your onesie or you sort of dressing gown, 432 00:20:52,980 --> 00:20:56,220 but I can imagine being able to run in them 433 00:20:56,220 --> 00:20:58,843 and dance in them and move in them. 434 00:21:00,870 --> 00:21:04,684 Marc Bohan was the designer who brought fantastic clients. 435 00:21:04,684 --> 00:21:07,434 (dramatic music) 436 00:21:12,380 --> 00:21:14,050 I think Princess Grace of Monaco 437 00:21:14,050 --> 00:21:15,680 had some of his loveliest dresses. 438 00:21:15,680 --> 00:21:17,840 He really knew how to dress 439 00:21:17,840 --> 00:21:21,460 what was the thickening waist of Princess Grace, 440 00:21:21,460 --> 00:21:25,030 and her style was no longer of the youthful princess. 441 00:21:25,030 --> 00:21:27,070 People actually want clothes that flatter them, 442 00:21:27,070 --> 00:21:28,440 that make them look good. 443 00:21:28,440 --> 00:21:30,550 They want a designer who's sympathetic, 444 00:21:30,550 --> 00:21:32,920 not one who necessarily wants to try out 445 00:21:32,920 --> 00:21:36,200 all his wild ideas on their bodies. 446 00:21:36,200 --> 00:21:38,940 Dior, it's a big industry, it's a big business, 447 00:21:38,940 --> 00:21:41,000 so Marc Bohan was successful. 448 00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,370 Women wanted to wear his clothes. 449 00:21:43,370 --> 00:21:45,470 He made beautiful clothes 450 00:21:45,470 --> 00:21:48,200 that made women feel beautiful in them. 451 00:21:48,200 --> 00:21:50,333 That's the secret of his success. 452 00:21:52,470 --> 00:21:53,710 Avenue Montaigne, 453 00:21:53,710 --> 00:21:56,850 in the poshest part of Paris, number 30, 454 00:21:56,850 --> 00:22:00,063 the birthplace of the House of Dior is still its home today. 455 00:22:03,740 --> 00:22:04,573 Hello. 456 00:22:04,573 --> 00:22:07,100 Let me take my card, because we are going 457 00:22:07,100 --> 00:22:09,760 to go through the third floor. 458 00:22:09,760 --> 00:22:10,593 Okay? 459 00:22:10,593 --> 00:22:12,630 Catherine Riviere runs Haute Couture, 460 00:22:12,630 --> 00:22:15,300 the most exclusive part of the Dior empire. 461 00:22:15,300 --> 00:22:19,260 Here, that's the first floor with Haute Couture salon. 462 00:22:19,260 --> 00:22:20,830 Couture clothes are handmade 463 00:22:20,830 --> 00:22:22,960 for the kind of woman who can afford to pay 464 00:22:22,960 --> 00:22:25,540 upwards of 20,000 pounds an outfit. 465 00:22:25,540 --> 00:22:28,633 Here you have Princess Diana. 466 00:22:30,220 --> 00:22:32,243 Diana, did you meet? 467 00:22:32,243 --> 00:22:33,076 Yes! 468 00:22:33,076 --> 00:22:36,350 I went to see her to make some fitting for her. 469 00:22:36,350 --> 00:22:37,590 She was charming. 470 00:22:37,590 --> 00:22:38,423 Really? 471 00:22:38,423 --> 00:22:40,901 I remember she welcomed us, she was barefooted. 472 00:22:40,901 --> 00:22:42,510 (laughing) 473 00:22:42,510 --> 00:22:44,600 Very relaxed. 474 00:22:44,600 --> 00:22:46,413 It was very nice. 475 00:22:46,413 --> 00:22:47,487 That was Princess Diana. 476 00:22:47,487 --> 00:22:48,363 Yeah. 477 00:22:48,363 --> 00:22:51,210 Because, you know, we went in her sitting room. 478 00:22:51,210 --> 00:22:56,210 It was like a young girl, with ballet shoes and cane. 479 00:22:56,880 --> 00:22:58,560 And now, the head office, 480 00:22:58,560 --> 00:23:00,720 with all its echoes of past glamor, 481 00:23:00,720 --> 00:23:02,820 has itself been chosen as the venue 482 00:23:02,820 --> 00:23:05,063 for this year's Haute Couture collection. 483 00:23:06,510 --> 00:23:08,763 But first, it has to get a makeover. 484 00:23:09,650 --> 00:23:11,210 As they inspect the location 485 00:23:11,210 --> 00:23:13,730 for their first Haute Couture show, 486 00:23:13,730 --> 00:23:16,380 in-house designers Serge and Lucie 487 00:23:16,380 --> 00:23:19,863 know that an enormous amount rests on their shoulders. 488 00:23:21,270 --> 00:23:23,980 Couture is the House's signature collection, 489 00:23:23,980 --> 00:23:27,593 and they've got four days left to perfect their outfits. 490 00:23:31,413 --> 00:23:33,360 (anxious electronic music) 491 00:23:33,360 --> 00:23:35,930 Three floors up, meet Flo Chehet, 492 00:23:35,930 --> 00:23:38,583 the hands of Haute Couture at the House of Dior. 493 00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:42,040 Flo supervises one of the two work rooms, 494 00:23:42,040 --> 00:23:44,933 and everything there has to pass through her hands. 495 00:23:46,150 --> 00:23:48,520 She has seen designers come and go, 496 00:23:48,520 --> 00:23:51,040 and they've all known that they rely of Flo 497 00:23:51,040 --> 00:23:53,443 and her fellow workers to produce the goods. 498 00:23:54,500 --> 00:23:56,413 Her empire is dresses. 499 00:23:58,698 --> 00:24:02,781 (conversing in foreign language) 500 00:24:43,260 --> 00:24:46,570 Flo is involved in fittings for the next three days. 501 00:24:46,570 --> 00:24:49,000 Every model has to have at least one fitting, 502 00:24:49,000 --> 00:24:51,840 and Flo has to inspect and be on hand downstairs 503 00:24:51,840 --> 00:24:53,490 for each of her team's creations. 504 00:24:56,270 --> 00:24:59,050 Flo has a direct, no-nonsense approach 505 00:24:59,050 --> 00:25:00,523 to someone she's never met. 506 00:25:05,477 --> 00:25:09,394 (speaking in foreign language) 507 00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:19,270 Haute Couture boss Catherine Riviere 508 00:25:19,270 --> 00:25:22,070 visits the workshops to inspect progress. 509 00:25:22,070 --> 00:25:24,840 This is what we call the sample. 510 00:25:24,840 --> 00:25:27,793 If there is a client who likes it, 511 00:25:27,793 --> 00:25:31,340 can be made in another color if they wish. 512 00:25:31,340 --> 00:25:33,680 For example, if you want it in red, 513 00:25:33,680 --> 00:25:36,350 navy, whatever, it's possible. 514 00:25:36,350 --> 00:25:38,370 But then you remake it completely. 515 00:25:38,370 --> 00:25:39,490 It's always. 516 00:25:39,490 --> 00:25:43,640 Sample of Haute Couture collection is never sold. 517 00:25:43,640 --> 00:25:44,700 So, if a client 518 00:25:44,700 --> 00:25:47,480 has a very different shape to the model. 519 00:25:47,480 --> 00:25:49,260 They are always a different shape, 520 00:25:49,260 --> 00:25:50,867 because the model are 16. 521 00:25:50,867 --> 00:25:52,603 They are, you know, 34. 522 00:25:54,678 --> 00:25:57,860 So, you know, they are always different. 523 00:25:57,860 --> 00:25:59,840 So it's why take the measurements. 524 00:25:59,840 --> 00:26:02,920 You have all the dummies of the client 525 00:26:02,920 --> 00:26:05,387 upstairs, on the shelf. 526 00:26:06,502 --> 00:26:08,136 These canvasses on the top shelves. 527 00:26:08,136 --> 00:26:09,124 Clients. 528 00:26:09,124 --> 00:26:09,957 Clients? 529 00:26:09,957 --> 00:26:11,663 You know, we have a basis. 530 00:26:11,663 --> 00:26:14,740 And after, we stud them according 531 00:26:14,740 --> 00:26:16,800 to the measurement of the client. 532 00:26:16,800 --> 00:26:17,633 Aha. 533 00:26:17,633 --> 00:26:19,457 So, looking at some over here-- 534 00:26:19,457 --> 00:26:23,763 You have someone big, you have someone thin. 535 00:26:23,763 --> 00:26:24,690 You have very ... 536 00:26:24,690 --> 00:26:28,930 You know, both things, they have to be dressed, you know? 537 00:26:28,930 --> 00:26:30,890 No, sure, we have ... 538 00:26:32,160 --> 00:26:35,757 ladies beautiful but who are not a size 34. 539 00:26:38,120 --> 00:26:39,687 You see the different shapes. 540 00:26:39,687 --> 00:26:42,333 You have some with very small waist. 541 00:26:44,110 --> 00:26:47,083 This one has no waist and a little bit more, 542 00:26:48,720 --> 00:26:51,850 how you say, square. 543 00:26:51,850 --> 00:26:53,340 Everybody is different. 544 00:26:53,340 --> 00:26:55,320 You have some with hip, with no hips, 545 00:26:55,320 --> 00:26:59,753 with big bust, with small waist, with big waist. 546 00:27:01,225 --> 00:27:02,390 They're all different. 547 00:27:02,390 --> 00:27:04,490 Like the woman in the world. 548 00:27:04,490 --> 00:27:07,483 If you look at the woman, they are all different. 549 00:27:08,750 --> 00:27:10,250 Rich and thin. 550 00:27:11,311 --> 00:27:13,620 Yeah, of course they are rich, you know? 551 00:27:13,620 --> 00:27:16,360 Because it's silly to say that Haute Couture 552 00:27:16,360 --> 00:27:17,900 is accessible to everyone. 553 00:27:17,900 --> 00:27:18,790 It's not true. 554 00:27:18,790 --> 00:27:21,867 It's not accessible to everyone. 555 00:27:21,867 --> 00:27:23,323 It's something special. 556 00:27:24,422 --> 00:27:25,606 It's a dream. 557 00:27:25,606 --> 00:27:28,509 Haute Couture has to sell dream. 558 00:27:28,509 --> 00:27:31,759 (curious string music) 559 00:27:34,290 --> 00:27:37,830 Avenue Montaigne, Dior HQ. 560 00:27:37,830 --> 00:27:40,060 Deep inside the building, hundreds of people 561 00:27:40,060 --> 00:27:42,530 are hard at work on the Haute Couture collection, 562 00:27:42,530 --> 00:27:45,473 which will be unveiled in three days' time. 563 00:27:47,360 --> 00:27:50,130 Flo, the head of Couture dress making, 564 00:27:50,130 --> 00:27:52,260 works on the model fittings. 565 00:27:52,260 --> 00:27:55,717 But there's a bit of an issue, a little thing about thongs. 566 00:27:58,676 --> 00:28:02,148 (speaking in foreign language) 567 00:28:02,148 --> 00:28:04,398 (laughing) 568 00:28:30,138 --> 00:28:33,480 The Dior seamstresses can work with any designer, 569 00:28:33,480 --> 00:28:34,960 and they've had to. 570 00:28:34,960 --> 00:28:38,550 In 1989, a new creative director was appointed: 571 00:28:38,550 --> 00:28:41,830 the glitzy Italian Gianfranco Ferre. 572 00:28:41,830 --> 00:28:45,230 It was the first big decision taken by Bernard Arnault 573 00:28:45,230 --> 00:28:47,363 when he bought the then-ailing company. 574 00:28:48,430 --> 00:28:50,360 He obviously took one look at Dior 575 00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:52,860 and thought this is a brand for old ladies. 576 00:28:52,860 --> 00:28:55,678 We have to have something younger and fresher. 577 00:28:55,678 --> 00:28:57,120 (upbeat music) 578 00:28:57,120 --> 00:28:58,890 With the appointment of Gianfranco Ferré 579 00:28:58,890 --> 00:29:02,170 he chose somebody who did quite spectacular collections 580 00:29:02,170 --> 00:29:04,780 with great big skirts, very Italian, in fact, 581 00:29:04,780 --> 00:29:06,610 and I think too Italian for the House. 582 00:29:06,610 --> 00:29:09,499 You can look at those clothes and think, 583 00:29:09,499 --> 00:29:14,150 well, they're slightly too overblown for my taste. 584 00:29:14,150 --> 00:29:18,162 But probably they will have their moment again. 585 00:29:18,162 --> 00:29:22,079 (speaking in foreign language) 586 00:29:23,820 --> 00:29:26,540 Before Serge and Lucie's Couture show, 587 00:29:26,540 --> 00:29:29,930 over 50 models are summoned and then pushed and pulled 588 00:29:29,930 --> 00:29:34,120 in and out of various outfits as the garments are finalized. 589 00:29:34,120 --> 00:29:38,530 19-year-old Julie Hoomans from Holland is much in demand. 590 00:29:38,530 --> 00:29:41,360 It's now less than 24 hours before the show, 591 00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,593 but everything seems very last-minute. 592 00:29:45,020 --> 00:29:46,330 My agency called me around three 593 00:29:46,330 --> 00:29:48,190 to say, like, you have to go to Dior, 594 00:29:48,190 --> 00:29:49,780 'cause your fitting's at four. 595 00:29:49,780 --> 00:29:53,360 So I skipped my plans with my friends, and I came here. 596 00:29:53,360 --> 00:29:54,520 And now I'm sitting and waiting. 597 00:29:54,520 --> 00:29:56,730 That's okay, 'cause I just heard them say 598 00:29:56,730 --> 00:29:58,527 my outfit will be ready soon. 599 00:29:58,527 --> 00:29:59,730 There's an awful lot of waiting around? 600 00:29:59,730 --> 00:30:00,730 Oh yeah, there is. 601 00:30:00,730 --> 00:30:01,563 Yeah, there is. 602 00:30:01,563 --> 00:30:02,396 There always is. 603 00:30:02,396 --> 00:30:03,850 But I mean, you have to get used to it. 604 00:30:03,850 --> 00:30:05,754 I mean, bring a book, bring your phone. 605 00:30:05,754 --> 00:30:06,593 Have you brought a book? 606 00:30:06,593 --> 00:30:07,830 Yeah, I have, actually. 607 00:30:07,830 --> 00:30:08,663 What are you reading? 608 00:30:08,663 --> 00:30:10,920 I am reading, it's a really good book. 609 00:30:10,920 --> 00:30:12,147 I'm sure you know it. 610 00:30:12,147 --> 00:30:13,370 I'm reading it in Dutch. 611 00:30:13,370 --> 00:30:18,140 It's Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Hundred Years of Solitude. 612 00:30:18,140 --> 00:30:18,973 So, it's really good. 613 00:30:18,973 --> 00:30:20,493 It keeps me entertained, yeah. 614 00:30:21,900 --> 00:30:24,020 At last, the proposed outfit for Julie 615 00:30:24,020 --> 00:30:26,763 is ready: an embroidered white jacket. 616 00:30:28,033 --> 00:30:31,950 (speaking in foreign language) 617 00:30:33,660 --> 00:30:37,172 The head of the tailoring section is Kamil Arslom. 618 00:30:37,172 --> 00:30:38,720 (dramatic music) 619 00:30:38,720 --> 00:30:42,637 (speaking in foreign language) 620 00:30:48,310 --> 00:30:49,770 What's happening there? 621 00:30:49,770 --> 00:30:52,040 Um, I don't know, to be honest. 622 00:30:52,040 --> 00:30:52,900 No one told me anything. 623 00:30:52,900 --> 00:30:54,770 But I'm just changing looks, so 624 00:30:54,770 --> 00:30:56,230 either means they want something else 625 00:30:56,230 --> 00:30:58,470 or they just want to see something else one me. 626 00:30:58,470 --> 00:31:01,220 Julie is now being tried out in a dress. 627 00:31:01,220 --> 00:31:03,370 So, for the moment, the white jacket 628 00:31:03,370 --> 00:31:05,570 will have to be fitted on a different model. 629 00:31:07,524 --> 00:31:11,607 (conversing in foreign language) 630 00:31:26,922 --> 00:31:29,663 With Couture, you have to be a shrink, 631 00:31:29,663 --> 00:31:30,680 you have to be-- 632 00:31:30,680 --> 00:31:31,620 You know, it's true. 633 00:31:31,620 --> 00:31:33,227 Explain shrink. 634 00:31:33,227 --> 00:31:34,303 Why psychiatry or psychology? 635 00:31:34,303 --> 00:31:36,610 Because every woman in the world, 636 00:31:36,610 --> 00:31:41,120 even very rich, she has problems in life, you know? 637 00:31:41,120 --> 00:31:44,200 When she arrive and she make a face like that, 638 00:31:44,200 --> 00:31:46,830 we know that we have to be very careful 639 00:31:46,830 --> 00:31:49,580 and we have to cheer them up. 640 00:31:49,580 --> 00:31:53,150 You know, this is in a nice outfit 641 00:31:53,150 --> 00:31:55,870 and they look great, they are happy. 642 00:31:55,870 --> 00:31:59,820 Plus, you know, you create some nice relationship. 643 00:31:59,820 --> 00:32:01,960 We know their life, we know their children, 644 00:32:01,960 --> 00:32:03,780 we know where they live. 645 00:32:03,780 --> 00:32:08,170 But you know, we are very, very confidential. 646 00:32:08,170 --> 00:32:11,740 There is not one single information 647 00:32:11,740 --> 00:32:14,440 which is coming out from the Haute Couture department. 648 00:32:16,610 --> 00:32:17,877 Very important. 649 00:32:18,940 --> 00:32:21,520 We have to adapt to the new way of living, 650 00:32:21,520 --> 00:32:25,420 on the new client, anything. 651 00:32:25,420 --> 00:32:26,510 New economy. 652 00:32:27,590 --> 00:32:30,671 Why is and why is not anymore, how we came to us 653 00:32:30,671 --> 00:32:32,750 from this country to the other. 654 00:32:32,750 --> 00:32:34,990 It's an all, you know? 655 00:32:34,990 --> 00:32:37,720 Dior has not been afraid of radical change. 656 00:32:37,720 --> 00:32:40,890 In 1996, it appointed the most controversial name 657 00:32:40,890 --> 00:32:44,823 in the fashion firmament: British designer John Galliano. 658 00:32:46,640 --> 00:32:50,980 An enfant terrible takes over at French Couture. 659 00:32:50,980 --> 00:32:53,800 And I think that what you see with Galliano 660 00:32:53,800 --> 00:32:58,800 was this sense of clothes as drama, clothes as spectacle. 661 00:33:00,291 --> 00:33:04,124 (intriguing electronic music) 662 00:33:05,560 --> 00:33:10,560 At his very best, Galliano was a huge success as a designer, 663 00:33:11,080 --> 00:33:16,080 and Dior's profits just spiraled at his worst. 664 00:33:17,260 --> 00:33:22,260 He was very provocative and made people extremely angry. 665 00:33:27,800 --> 00:33:29,240 I suppose the one that hit me most 666 00:33:29,240 --> 00:33:32,460 was the one of the tramps. 667 00:33:32,460 --> 00:33:36,600 The idea of taking people who had no homes, 668 00:33:36,600 --> 00:33:40,680 who were basically dressing themselves in bits of garbage, 669 00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:41,740 it's pretty extraordinary 670 00:33:41,740 --> 00:33:44,820 for a House that belonged to Couture. 671 00:33:44,820 --> 00:33:46,570 But it certainly, I don't know whether 672 00:33:46,570 --> 00:33:48,600 it made the tills ring, but it certainly 673 00:33:48,600 --> 00:33:51,063 made everybody think about Christian Dior. 674 00:33:52,270 --> 00:33:55,050 But in 2011, John Galliano 675 00:33:55,050 --> 00:33:57,580 crashed and burned spectacularly. 676 00:33:57,580 --> 00:34:00,790 After a drunken, anti-Semitic rant was caught on camera, 677 00:34:00,790 --> 00:34:03,773 he was sacked by Chief Executive Sidney Toledano. 678 00:34:06,700 --> 00:34:08,350 A sleek minimalism was brought in 679 00:34:08,350 --> 00:34:12,480 by Toledano's next appointment: Belgian Raf Simons. 680 00:34:12,480 --> 00:34:15,387 But after just three years, Simons resigned, 681 00:34:15,387 --> 00:34:17,640 citing the pressure of work. 682 00:34:17,640 --> 00:34:20,813 The demands of designing for Dior are too great for some. 683 00:34:24,360 --> 00:34:25,920 Back in Avenue Montaigne, 684 00:34:25,920 --> 00:34:28,170 it's the night before the Haute Couture show. 685 00:34:29,110 --> 00:34:31,260 Flow and Kamil are battling it out 686 00:34:31,260 --> 00:34:34,480 to see who has to make the least number of alterations. 687 00:34:34,480 --> 00:34:37,820 They can't finish until the designers make decisions. 688 00:34:37,820 --> 00:34:40,791 Which model will wear which outfit? 689 00:34:40,791 --> 00:34:44,874 (conversing in foreign language) 690 00:34:47,058 --> 00:34:49,308 (laughing) 691 00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:17,290 The model Flo wants to keep is Sophia from Russia. 692 00:35:17,290 --> 00:35:18,230 You're being fought over. 693 00:35:18,230 --> 00:35:19,950 Have you understood that? 694 00:35:19,950 --> 00:35:22,329 No, I didn't. (chuckles) 695 00:35:22,329 --> 00:35:23,162 Do you speak French? 696 00:35:23,162 --> 00:35:24,420 No, not at all. 697 00:35:24,420 --> 00:35:25,709 I want to keep you. 698 00:35:25,709 --> 00:35:26,542 Oh, thank you. 699 00:35:26,542 --> 00:35:27,434 Okay? Yes. 700 00:35:27,434 --> 00:35:28,293 Voila. 701 00:35:28,293 --> 00:35:30,876 (gentle music) 702 00:35:36,014 --> 00:35:40,097 (conversing in foreign language) 703 00:36:23,472 --> 00:36:26,910 (bright electronic music) 704 00:36:26,910 --> 00:36:29,660 It's the day of Dior's Haute Couture show. 705 00:36:30,820 --> 00:36:33,940 Serge and Lucie's designs are about to be unveiled 706 00:36:33,940 --> 00:36:37,303 to some of Dior's richest and most important clients. 707 00:36:39,500 --> 00:36:42,200 All the top models are back stage. 708 00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:45,010 Bella Hadid, who now has one and a half million 709 00:36:45,010 --> 00:36:47,510 more Instagram followers than she did at Blenheim. 710 00:36:48,400 --> 00:36:51,550 Julie Hoomans is now about 50 years through her book, 711 00:36:51,550 --> 00:36:53,050 One Hundred Years of Solitude. 712 00:36:56,660 --> 00:37:00,180 And Julia Nobis, whom Vogue calls the runway's 713 00:37:00,180 --> 00:37:03,513 most wanted model, has just flown in from Australia. 714 00:37:04,445 --> 00:37:07,893 I'm tall, I'm skinny, I'm apparently not hideous. 715 00:37:08,880 --> 00:37:10,623 People like like, and so, cool. 716 00:37:11,480 --> 00:37:14,470 Julia started in the business when she was 17 717 00:37:14,470 --> 00:37:16,680 and has just turned 24. 718 00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:19,210 I sent in my applications to medical school 719 00:37:19,210 --> 00:37:22,230 the other week, so we'll see how that goes. 720 00:37:22,230 --> 00:37:23,880 And I guess that'll kind of determine 721 00:37:23,880 --> 00:37:27,550 how much longer I have. (chuckles) 722 00:37:27,550 --> 00:37:30,410 As the newly-signed face of Dior makeup, 723 00:37:30,410 --> 00:37:32,220 Bella Hadid gets the magic touch 724 00:37:32,220 --> 00:37:35,133 of the makeup boss himself, Peter Philips. 725 00:37:44,720 --> 00:37:46,850 Up in the workshop, many of the outfits 726 00:37:46,850 --> 00:37:49,193 for the show are still not finished. 727 00:37:50,969 --> 00:37:55,052 (conversing in foreign language) 728 00:38:21,033 --> 00:38:24,866 (intriguing electronic music) 729 00:38:32,302 --> 00:38:33,780 In the backstage dressing room, 730 00:38:33,780 --> 00:38:36,180 the models are reunited with the unique outfits 731 00:38:36,180 --> 00:38:39,933 chosen for them and, in some cases, sewn in. 732 00:38:54,749 --> 00:38:56,730 And then, you know, it's a little revealing. 733 00:38:56,730 --> 00:38:57,920 A smidge. 734 00:38:57,920 --> 00:38:59,080 Got my single nipple. 735 00:38:59,080 --> 00:39:01,430 Only one, though, not the both. 736 00:39:01,430 --> 00:39:03,160 But, you know. 737 00:39:03,160 --> 00:39:04,320 I'm hapy with just one nipple. 738 00:39:04,320 --> 00:39:05,550 I mean, I like a single nipple. 739 00:39:05,550 --> 00:39:06,383 Why not? 740 00:39:09,009 --> 00:39:10,003 Yes. Thank you! 741 00:39:13,020 --> 00:39:14,210 This embroidery is insane. 742 00:39:14,210 --> 00:39:15,990 It's the details. I know. 743 00:39:15,990 --> 00:39:17,233 The details are crazy. 744 00:39:18,640 --> 00:39:22,070 This show is not for the fashion editors. 745 00:39:22,070 --> 00:39:23,930 The specially-invited guests are people 746 00:39:23,930 --> 00:39:27,480 you normally never see: seriously rich clients 747 00:39:27,480 --> 00:39:29,260 who can spend, in some cases, 748 00:39:29,260 --> 00:39:32,023 hundreds of thousands a year and Dior couture. 749 00:39:33,740 --> 00:39:36,240 The hallowed staircase they climb is the one 750 00:39:36,240 --> 00:39:39,203 where Christian Dior himself showed his collections. 751 00:39:40,980 --> 00:39:44,410 Despite predictions of its death, in a select few Houses 752 00:39:44,410 --> 00:39:47,880 that still do it, couture is going strong. 753 00:39:47,880 --> 00:39:50,513 The customers just come from different places. 754 00:39:51,950 --> 00:39:55,580 These are the people on whom the future of couture depends 755 00:39:55,580 --> 00:39:58,293 and with whom Catherine Riviere deals. 756 00:39:59,670 --> 00:40:02,370 Dinner is great for the image of the House. 757 00:40:02,370 --> 00:40:05,460 It's very important, because it's really 758 00:40:05,460 --> 00:40:07,393 the window of Maison Dior. 759 00:40:08,340 --> 00:40:13,340 So, if the feedback is good, if the reviews are good, 760 00:40:13,840 --> 00:40:17,420 it's good for all of the product of the House, 761 00:40:17,420 --> 00:40:19,287 which is important. 762 00:40:19,287 --> 00:40:23,120 (intriguing electronic music) 763 00:40:24,665 --> 00:40:26,110 Victoria. 764 00:40:26,110 --> 00:40:26,943 Victoria. 765 00:40:30,320 --> 00:40:32,900 Every last speck of dust and stray hair 766 00:40:32,900 --> 00:40:36,927 are removed before the models descend the famous staircase. 767 00:40:37,984 --> 00:40:41,817 (intriguing electronic music) 768 00:41:58,760 --> 00:42:01,177 (applauding) 769 00:42:07,141 --> 00:42:10,003 And in just over 10 minutes, the whole show is over. 770 00:42:16,800 --> 00:42:19,423 One flight down, its staff drinks. 771 00:42:20,887 --> 00:42:24,970 (conversing in foreign language) 772 00:42:44,696 --> 00:42:49,110 (intriguing electronic music) 773 00:42:49,110 --> 00:42:51,903 For the after-show dinner, no expense is spared. 774 00:42:52,870 --> 00:42:55,280 Monsieur Toledano and Dior have hired 775 00:42:55,280 --> 00:42:57,750 no less than the palace of Versailles 776 00:42:57,750 --> 00:43:00,173 to impress their most important clients. 777 00:43:09,230 --> 00:43:13,770 Dior's owner, Bernard Arnault, the sun king of today, 778 00:43:13,770 --> 00:43:15,970 is here to meet and greet them. 779 00:43:15,970 --> 00:43:17,273 I love Haute Couture. 780 00:43:18,270 --> 00:43:21,447 But I have to find a particular piece. 781 00:43:21,447 --> 00:43:22,464 Right. 782 00:43:22,464 --> 00:43:24,410 And did you see anything today? 783 00:43:24,410 --> 00:43:26,530 I saw a lot of treasures. 784 00:43:26,530 --> 00:43:30,093 And I have to go and see them in person, by appointment. 785 00:43:30,960 --> 00:43:32,550 So I will do that. 786 00:43:32,550 --> 00:43:33,860 Will you be doing that soon? 787 00:43:33,860 --> 00:43:35,843 This week, before I leave. 788 00:43:35,843 --> 00:43:36,676 Fantastic. 789 00:43:36,676 --> 00:43:37,754 Where do you live? 790 00:43:37,754 --> 00:43:39,357 I live in Houston, Texas. 791 00:43:39,357 --> 00:43:41,940 (bright music) 792 00:43:43,810 --> 00:43:45,260 Dinner is on the stage 793 00:43:45,260 --> 00:43:47,760 of the palace's opera house. 794 00:43:47,760 --> 00:43:52,230 Louis XIV himself performed on this very stage as Apollo, 795 00:43:52,230 --> 00:43:56,530 the sun god, and became known as the Sun King. 796 00:43:56,530 --> 00:44:00,393 Dior know how to make these clients feel like royalty. 797 00:44:06,780 --> 00:44:09,270 Next morning, it's back to work. 798 00:44:09,270 --> 00:44:11,520 The show has been hailed a success, 799 00:44:11,520 --> 00:44:13,270 but the press is abuzz with rumors 800 00:44:13,270 --> 00:44:15,540 that the new designer has been appointed, 801 00:44:15,540 --> 00:44:19,775 just in time for Paris fashion week, 10 weeks away. 802 00:44:19,775 --> 00:44:24,660 (conversing in foreign language) 803 00:44:24,660 --> 00:44:25,580 How was it yesterday? 804 00:44:25,580 --> 00:44:26,413 Excellent. 805 00:44:26,413 --> 00:44:27,246 The press was-- 806 00:44:27,246 --> 00:44:29,630 The press, excellent, and the clients. 807 00:44:29,630 --> 00:44:30,463 Ah. 808 00:44:30,463 --> 00:44:31,296 They're coming. 809 00:44:31,296 --> 00:44:32,129 Very important. 810 00:44:32,129 --> 00:44:32,962 Absolutely. 811 00:44:32,962 --> 00:44:33,795 Absolutely. 812 00:44:33,795 --> 00:44:34,628 They're coming in today? 813 00:44:34,628 --> 00:44:35,490 Absolutely. 814 00:44:35,490 --> 00:44:36,998 Very well, very well. 815 00:44:36,998 --> 00:44:39,320 And one more question I have to ask. 816 00:44:39,320 --> 00:44:41,427 I have a guy waiting for me. 817 00:44:41,427 --> 00:44:43,993 But the new designer, is there much talk? 818 00:44:46,070 --> 00:44:47,250 Quiet. 819 00:44:47,250 --> 00:44:48,083 Thank you. 820 00:44:49,010 --> 00:44:51,590 Next day, Mr. Toledano announces 821 00:44:51,590 --> 00:44:53,390 that the new creative director 822 00:44:53,390 --> 00:44:56,576 will be the first woman in the roll in Dior's history. 823 00:44:56,576 --> 00:44:58,560 (dramatic electronic music) 824 00:44:58,560 --> 00:45:02,270 Next time, Maria Grazia Chiuri arrives, 825 00:45:02,270 --> 00:45:04,840 with only weeks to put together her first show, 826 00:45:04,840 --> 00:45:06,703 which attracts the stars. 827 00:45:08,084 --> 00:45:11,037 (crowd cheering) 828 00:45:11,037 --> 00:45:14,704 (dramatic electronic music) 61552

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