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From high in the sky on a brilliant
morning, Nepal looks idyllic, but on
the ground, things are different.
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00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:18,600
In these Himalayan foothills,
communist insurgents,
inspired by the work of Chairman Mao,
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00:01:18,600 --> 00:01:25,600
are waging a campaign against
the government that has lasted eight
years and cost nearly 8,000 lives.
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00:01:25,600 --> 00:01:30,840
As I'm to find out, things in Nepal
are not always the way they look.
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00:01:44,240 --> 00:01:48,560
In the western foothills,
far off the tourist track,
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00:01:48,560 --> 00:01:54,400
I'm with a party on their way
to the village of Lekhani
to witness a recruiting ceremony
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00:01:54,400 --> 00:01:59,920
for what is perhaps Nepal's
best known export,
the legendary Gurkha soldiers.
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00:01:59,920 --> 00:02:04,000
Oh, right,
but you can't get to it by road...
9
00:02:09,080 --> 00:02:14,640
'With me are senior Gurkha officers,
led by Lieutenant-Colonel
Adrian Griffith,
10
00:02:14,640 --> 00:02:20,640
'an Englishman who's
lived here for 15 years
and speaks the language fluently.'
11
00:02:22,400 --> 00:02:27,600
His interest in the tough fighting
men of these hills goes way back.
12
00:02:27,600 --> 00:02:33,200
When I was eight, I took the Victor,
and it had a story
called Johnny Gurkha in it and...
13
00:02:33,200 --> 00:02:37,720
The Victor magazine? I went to the
Royal Tournament to see the Gurkhas.
14
00:02:37,720 --> 00:02:43,960
They fired my imagination, and while
at Sandhurst, I was lucky enough
to get selected for the brigade.
15
00:02:43,960 --> 00:02:49,400
I was commissioned
into the 6th Gurkhas in 1979,
so it's nearly 25 years ago.
16
00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:53,360
And it's never been a letdown?
What you read in the Victor...?
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00:02:53,360 --> 00:02:59,400
I say I wanted to be an engine
driver, I became an engine driver
and I enjoy being an engine driver.
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00:03:01,080 --> 00:03:05,320
Do you try and confine your selection
to these groups?
19
00:03:05,320 --> 00:03:09,400
Traditionally, we've recruited
from the Gurungs and the Magars.
20
00:03:09,400 --> 00:03:15,080
The Gurungs are mostly east of the
Kali Gandaki, the river we crossed,
and the Magars are in this area.
21
00:03:15,080 --> 00:03:18,520
And this really is the area
of the Poon Magars.
22
00:03:18,520 --> 00:03:25,280
The Nepalese government allow us
to recruit, but they ask that
we maintain a lower profile. Right.
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00:03:25,280 --> 00:03:29,720
It's embedded in history. It's
nearly 200 years it's been going on,
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00:03:29,720 --> 00:03:35,160
one way or another, but they like it
to be kept as low-key as possible.
Yes.
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00:03:36,840 --> 00:03:43,280
But it's this lugging of loads
up and down hills
that really toughens people up,
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00:03:43,280 --> 00:03:48,040
and it's one of the reasons
why they make such ideal soldiers.
27
00:03:48,040 --> 00:03:54,880
I'm feeling quite toughened up myself
by the time we reach Lekhani,
where Adrian addresses the hopefuls.
28
00:03:54,880 --> 00:03:57,520
HE SPEAKS IN NEPALI
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00:04:17,840 --> 00:04:20,120
All the recruits are given numbers.
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00:04:20,120 --> 00:04:26,360
Of the 250 applicants here today,
only a fraction will go on
to the next stage of testing.
31
00:04:27,680 --> 00:04:32,080
We recruit once a year, and it's
broken down into three phases.
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00:04:32,080 --> 00:04:38,960
This is the first phase - the
opportunity for any man who wants
to join the British Army to get in.
33
00:04:38,960 --> 00:04:44,240
There are a lot more young men
who want to join
than we have places for.
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00:04:44,240 --> 00:04:51,200
Last year, for example, across
Nepal, somewhere in the region
of 24,000 were chasing 331 places.
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00:04:51,200 --> 00:04:57,840
Yes. And so it is very important.
But, clearly, the numbers
that will get through today...
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00:04:57,840 --> 00:05:04,560
I think the galla has an allocation
of 100. Tell me who the galla is.
Explain the role of the galla.
37
00:05:04,560 --> 00:05:08,440
The galla is our recruiter.
He is a retired Gurkha soldier,
38
00:05:08,440 --> 00:05:13,960
in this case, a retired
sergeant-major. He is resident in
the area that he works in,
39
00:05:13,960 --> 00:05:18,560
and he brings in the raw material
into the recruiting offices.
40
00:05:18,560 --> 00:05:21,800
So he's pretty vital.
He's fundamental.
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00:05:24,880 --> 00:05:31,360
As members of the British Army,
recruits will get paid ten times more
than they would in the Nepalese army,
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00:05:31,360 --> 00:05:35,640
which makes a Gurkha
a very attractive proposition.
43
00:05:35,640 --> 00:05:36,640
Go!
44
00:06:30,960 --> 00:06:34,760
As dawn breaks next morning,
the village looks the same,
45
00:06:34,760 --> 00:06:38,680
it seems to be enjoying itself
in the same way,
46
00:06:38,680 --> 00:06:40,840
but feels very different.
47
00:06:40,840 --> 00:06:44,600
Despite the sunshine,
there's a chill in the air.
48
00:06:47,360 --> 00:06:51,400
Late yesterday afternoon, the galla -
who is the recruiting officer -
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00:06:51,400 --> 00:06:55,360
told us that he'd been approached
by the local Maoists,
50
00:06:55,360 --> 00:07:00,520
who wanted to talk to him, one of us
and the Gurkhas who we were with.
51
00:07:00,520 --> 00:07:02,600
A meeting was held,
52
00:07:02,600 --> 00:07:08,440
at the end of which
the Maoists decided that they wanted
to take the galla, Adrian,
53
00:07:08,440 --> 00:07:12,680
two other senior Gurkhas off into
the forest to meet the hierarchy.
54
00:07:12,680 --> 00:07:14,840
Well, there was nothing we could do.
55
00:07:14,840 --> 00:07:19,320
We waited here. They were taken off
yesterday evening into the forest,
56
00:07:19,320 --> 00:07:22,720
and this morning,
they haven't returned.
57
00:07:22,720 --> 00:07:28,600
As far as we know, there's no
real danger, they just wanted to talk
to them, but they're not back yet.
58
00:07:28,600 --> 00:07:34,680
It looks as though the rest of the
recruiting is off, and all the work
done yesterday will be a waste.
59
00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:40,320
And it looks also as though
we probably will have to just get
out of here as quickly as possible.
60
00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:49,120
There's no obvious threat, but just
knowing we're in Maoist-controlled
territory changes the atmosphere.
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00:07:49,120 --> 00:07:55,360
From being a charming, rustic
backwater, Lekhani now seems more
like an out-of-the-way trap,
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00:07:55,360 --> 00:07:59,320
and friendly locals
potential kidnappers.
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00:08:01,760 --> 00:08:06,320
As we head out of town, we pass
yesterday's would-be Gurkhas,
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00:08:06,320 --> 00:08:08,760
looking as confused as ourselves.
65
00:08:14,200 --> 00:08:20,560
We're two hours' walk
from the nearest road, and only when
we're there will we feel safe.
66
00:08:32,200 --> 00:08:39,080
48 hours later, news that Adrian has
been released safe and well reaches
us in the lakeside town of Pokhara.
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00:08:39,080 --> 00:08:43,400
Adrian tells me what happened
when he was abducted.
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00:08:43,400 --> 00:08:46,600
I was then introduced to
Comrade Mahesh,
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00:08:46,600 --> 00:08:51,600
who was obviously a senior member
of the Baglung Maoist party,
70
00:08:51,600 --> 00:08:57,560
and I had a discussion with him
for about half an hour,
really on the Maoist cause.
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00:08:57,560 --> 00:09:04,440
He said that his aim in taking me
particularly was to get publicity
for their cause outside Nepal.
72
00:09:04,440 --> 00:09:08,160
And they then, at 12 o'clock,
walked us down to the road
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00:09:08,160 --> 00:09:13,920
which we'd driven up
the previous day, and they'd
arranged a vehicle for us there.
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00:09:13,920 --> 00:09:19,920
They said, "We must have one final
cup of tea together." So we had a
final cup of tea with our abductors,
75
00:09:19,920 --> 00:09:26,280
they made a speech to the assembled
villagers. At 1.30, we got in the
vehicle and drove off down the hill,
76
00:09:26,280 --> 00:09:30,480
and that was the end of it.
What sort of people were they?
77
00:09:30,480 --> 00:09:37,360
You speak Nepali well. Presumably
you could make some judgment?
They were very normal Nepalis.
78
00:09:37,360 --> 00:09:44,280
They were a mix of different castes,
but they were all very well informed
in terms of their own cause,
79
00:09:44,280 --> 00:09:50,760
but they were unremarkable, except
in the fact they were very focused
on what they were trying to achieve.
80
00:09:50,760 --> 00:09:54,000
Now it's time
to tackle the mountains.
81
00:09:54,000 --> 00:09:58,760
We'll be trekking up to the
13,500-foot base camp of Annapurna,
82
00:09:58,760 --> 00:10:01,600
whose summit dominates the horizon,
83
00:10:01,600 --> 00:10:06,440
along with the classically beautiful
peak of Machhapuchhre - "Fishtail".
84
00:10:06,440 --> 00:10:12,040
The idea is
to see a bit of the country and get
acclimatised to high altitude
85
00:10:12,040 --> 00:10:16,160
before we take on Everest
and the Tibetan Plateau.
86
00:10:16,160 --> 00:10:21,640
Followed by our sherpa guides
Wongchu and Nawang,
I set a less-than-blistering pace.
87
00:10:21,640 --> 00:10:23,920
Hi. Hi. Namaste.
88
00:10:23,920 --> 00:10:26,280
Namaste. Where have you come from?
89
00:10:26,280 --> 00:10:31,200
We've come from Bamboo. Yeah, all
the way. We were at the ABC and...
90
00:10:31,200 --> 00:10:35,320
That's the base camp. That's where
we're going. Yeah, amazing there.
91
00:10:35,320 --> 00:10:40,120
How is it up there? Amazing!
360 degrees of mountains, gorgeous.
92
00:10:40,120 --> 00:10:43,760
Weather good? Um, weather...
Very nice.
93
00:10:43,760 --> 00:10:46,400
Where are you all from? Israel.
94
00:10:46,400 --> 00:10:48,920
Israel, oh, wow, right. And you?
95
00:10:48,920 --> 00:10:52,840
Where am I from?
..Oh, England, that's right!
96
00:10:52,840 --> 00:10:58,400
We've just started our climb -
we're vague on details,
like where we're from!
97
00:10:58,400 --> 00:11:02,560
So is this part of a long holiday?
Yeah, it's a vacation from school.
98
00:11:02,560 --> 00:11:05,280
Yeah. Any problems along the way?
99
00:11:05,280 --> 00:11:07,800
We had a problem on our second day.
100
00:11:07,800 --> 00:11:12,040
We actually slept here in Chomrong,
and we met some Maoists.
101
00:11:12,040 --> 00:11:17,760
What did they say? "We're Maoists.
How do you do"? There were three
people and just one of them said...
102
00:11:17,760 --> 00:11:21,680
There was one with a gun
standing behind him. Oh, I see.
103
00:11:21,680 --> 00:11:26,000
And they were just telling us,
"Hello. We are Maoists..."
104
00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:28,080
We are communists.
105
00:11:28,080 --> 00:11:31,480
Not really, just,
"Hello, we are Maoists."
106
00:11:31,480 --> 00:11:36,000
They started talking. They said each
one of us has to pay 1,000 rupees,
107
00:11:36,000 --> 00:11:39,840
and, um, we pay 1,000,
they give us a receipt,
108
00:11:39,840 --> 00:11:44,040
and there is now not going to be
any problem on our way.
109
00:11:44,040 --> 00:11:48,240
They say that they are the mountain
people, and that this their area.
110
00:11:48,240 --> 00:11:52,800
So you weren't...you weren't alarmed?
You weren't frightened?
111
00:11:52,800 --> 00:11:55,120
Or did they point the gun at you?
112
00:11:55,120 --> 00:11:59,560
No, no. They didn't point the gun,
but we tried to negotiate with them,
113
00:11:59,560 --> 00:12:05,440
tell them that we are students and
this is the beginning of our trip,
and it's a lot of money,
114
00:12:05,440 --> 00:12:11,600
but we had to pay them eventually.
They gave us a receipt. Do you want
to see it? Yes, it might be useful!
115
00:12:11,600 --> 00:12:15,400
If you're going home,
you can give me the receipt!
116
00:12:15,400 --> 00:12:20,680
But it's in Nepali, so you won't
understand what's written inside it.
OK.
117
00:12:20,680 --> 00:12:24,800
But it does say that we paid
1,500... Three of us. My name...
118
00:12:24,800 --> 00:12:27,000
I read Nepali, you see,
119
00:12:27,000 --> 00:12:33,760
and that says, "Arrest these three
on arrival(!)" I suggest that you
learn Nepali, I think! Yes, great!
120
00:12:33,760 --> 00:12:35,840
And your name...? Liat. Liat.
121
00:12:35,840 --> 00:12:37,960
And you are? Michael.
122
00:12:37,960 --> 00:12:42,120
OK. Michael,
it was a pleasure meeting you.
123
00:12:42,120 --> 00:12:47,960
I hope you enjoy your... Well,
you're going downhill. It's all
downhill from here, so good luck!
124
00:12:47,960 --> 00:12:52,360
Yeah, thank you. Thanks for the
hints on the way. No problem. Enjoy.
125
00:12:52,360 --> 00:12:54,160
Bye-bye! Bye.
126
00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:12,520
'I'm already feeling breathless,
but notices warn that
things can only get worse.'
127
00:13:12,520 --> 00:13:15,160
"Mountain sickness."
128
00:13:15,160 --> 00:13:18,960
'Wongchu's been up Everest twice,
so he should know.'
129
00:13:18,960 --> 00:13:23,280
When do we get the, um, the height
where you get mountain sickness?
130
00:13:23,280 --> 00:13:25,640
Are we there yet or not?
131
00:13:25,640 --> 00:13:29,920
Yes, you get the mountain sickness,
and you must drink a lot of water,
132
00:13:29,920 --> 00:13:32,760
and then you must use the soup,
133
00:13:32,760 --> 00:13:35,040
and go slow,
134
00:13:35,040 --> 00:13:37,440
walk slow walk. Well, that's easy.
135
00:13:37,440 --> 00:13:42,720
Then when you get headache,
you must move down in the low place.
136
00:13:42,720 --> 00:13:48,560
"Early symptoms - headache,
loss of appetite, dizziness,
fatigue on minimal exertion..."
137
00:13:48,560 --> 00:13:54,920
I've got a bit of that! "What to do -
get in touch with your nearest
sherpa! Descend, descend, descend."
138
00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:57,560
Well, that's pretty clear.
139
00:13:57,560 --> 00:14:01,000
Yes. It's not a cakewalk, is it?
140
00:14:05,440 --> 00:14:07,360
Namaste!
141
00:14:09,720 --> 00:14:14,200
We set off next morning with high
hopes, encouraged by the locals.
142
00:14:20,840 --> 00:14:22,960
So far, so good.
143
00:14:22,960 --> 00:14:27,360
Much of the trek seems either
downhill or along the valley floor.
144
00:14:27,360 --> 00:14:33,320
Wongchu puts up with this but, like
a true sherpa, doesn't really start
to enjoy himself until it gets steep.
145
00:14:33,320 --> 00:14:35,920
Lunch here, Wongchu?
146
00:14:35,920 --> 00:14:37,960
No, up the hill.
147
00:14:37,960 --> 00:14:39,400
Swine!
148
00:14:41,200 --> 00:14:43,640
Up the hill!
149
00:14:43,640 --> 00:14:46,280
I just don't want to!
150
00:14:50,560 --> 00:14:55,000
'The porters, carrying our equipment
in bamboo baskets,
151
00:14:55,000 --> 00:14:57,480
'positively scamper up the mountain,
152
00:14:57,480 --> 00:15:01,640
'and Wongchu follows them
like a man who's late for work.'
153
00:15:07,160 --> 00:15:11,320
Wongchu,
it's not the Olympic 100m!
154
00:15:13,720 --> 00:15:16,160
The view is spectacular.
155
00:15:16,160 --> 00:15:20,440
From here you can clearly why
Machhapuchhre is called "Fish Tail".
156
00:15:30,560 --> 00:15:36,920
'Mercifully, Wongchu has allowed us
a brief stop at one of the
guesthouses which dot the route,
157
00:15:36,920 --> 00:15:39,320
'offering rare Nepalese dishes.'
158
00:15:49,080 --> 00:15:52,720
Thank you, thank you very much.
Boiled potato.
159
00:15:52,720 --> 00:15:55,360
Is this from your garden? Yeah.
160
00:15:55,360 --> 00:15:59,320
Is it? Good, that's very nice.
It's very good. Looks...
161
00:15:59,320 --> 00:16:01,640
OK. And is this your lodge?
162
00:16:01,640 --> 00:16:05,160
Do you run it,
or do you just work here? Yeah.
163
00:16:05,160 --> 00:16:11,000
And you have all nationalities
up here, many countries,
so, um, you speak English, don't you?
164
00:16:11,000 --> 00:16:14,240
Do you have to
speak other languages?
165
00:16:15,280 --> 00:16:17,720
What other languages do you speak?
166
00:16:17,720 --> 00:16:22,960
Well, a little bit English
and Gurung and Nepali, that's all.
167
00:16:22,960 --> 00:16:25,400
And do you live up here? Yeah.
168
00:16:25,400 --> 00:16:27,840
All year round? No.
169
00:16:27,840 --> 00:16:32,400
What happens in the winter? It's
closed? I go to Chomrong. Oh, right.
170
00:16:32,400 --> 00:16:35,760
You have family in Chomrong? Yeah.
Oh, right.
171
00:16:35,760 --> 00:16:38,280
Do you have to carry things up here?
172
00:16:38,280 --> 00:16:43,120
Yeah, sometimes. Like five kilo,
five to ten kilo. Five to ten kilos?
173
00:16:43,120 --> 00:16:45,360
Wow. Yeah. You're strong.
174
00:16:45,360 --> 00:16:46,760
Yeah.
175
00:16:46,760 --> 00:16:50,120
I'm very impressed
you speak anything!
176
00:16:50,120 --> 00:16:54,480
After lunch, the path
becomes a bit of a roller coaster -
177
00:16:54,480 --> 00:16:57,720
out of one valley
and down into the next.
178
00:17:19,760 --> 00:17:24,120
Cor blimey!
Wongchu sets...a pretty fast pace.
179
00:17:24,120 --> 00:17:27,360
Mind you,
he has been up Everest twice!
180
00:17:27,360 --> 00:17:31,440
It's the afternoon now. I think
walking this morning was easier.
181
00:17:31,440 --> 00:17:35,640
We stopped for lunch, and it's
really hard to get started again.
182
00:17:35,640 --> 00:17:40,120
Every step suddenly seems like 12,
and, you know, the stairs, the steps,
183
00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:45,680
they're very well maintained,
but they're never regular,
so you're going at different speeds.
184
00:17:45,680 --> 00:17:51,040
Anyway, stop moaning, Palin!
On you go...
You'll enjoy it when you're there.
185
00:18:31,160 --> 00:18:33,600
MICHAEL GROANS
186
00:18:35,040 --> 00:18:37,040
Oh, wow.
187
00:18:38,440 --> 00:18:40,920
We're getting higher up now.
188
00:18:40,920 --> 00:18:45,000
Wongchu, I'm beginning to feel it.
3,000 metres are we?
189
00:18:45,000 --> 00:18:48,920
Are we above 3,000 metres?
Yeah. It's a very nice place.
190
00:18:48,920 --> 00:18:51,440
It's cool, it's shady. What is it?
191
00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,520
Ah, this is a Hinku cave.
192
00:18:53,520 --> 00:18:56,280
A Hindu cave. Hinku. Hinku, sorry.
193
00:18:56,280 --> 00:19:01,640
What's a Hinku? Hinku means
before this, some Hindu god
194
00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:05,520
and some Himalayan god
were living here. Right.
195
00:19:05,520 --> 00:19:11,800
That's why they call it, and also
the long time people here...
Yeti live here. Yeti lived here?
196
00:19:11,800 --> 00:19:14,040
Go on! Really?!
197
00:19:14,040 --> 00:19:17,080
Yes, really.
You believe in the yeti?
198
00:19:17,080 --> 00:19:19,320
I saw...Yeti in the mountain.
199
00:19:19,320 --> 00:19:23,600
What did it look like? It looked like
a monkey and it looked like people.
200
00:19:23,600 --> 00:19:26,480
A big monkey. How big? How tall?
201
00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:29,040
The same as us. Really?
202
00:19:29,040 --> 00:19:34,120
Are you sure it wasn't one of us?
A lost climber? No, no. This is yeti.
203
00:19:34,120 --> 00:19:36,400
Does it make a noise?
204
00:19:36,400 --> 00:19:41,760
Um, sometimes they make noisy...
They say, "Yeee!", like this.
205
00:19:41,760 --> 00:19:46,120
Great. That's when you know
there's a yeti coming!
206
00:19:46,120 --> 00:19:50,720
That is the most wonderful sight, and
if there's a yeti there as well...
207
00:19:50,720 --> 00:19:54,840
Yes. Let's go
and have tea with the yeti. Yes.
208
00:19:54,840 --> 00:19:59,120
Point it out to me if I don't
notice it. Yeti make tea very nice.
209
00:19:59,120 --> 00:20:01,720
Oh, dear! If I can get down...
210
00:20:01,720 --> 00:20:03,960
Be careful, this is the yeti route.
211
00:20:19,080 --> 00:20:25,520
Our dream home for the night is
typical of the lodges that have
sprouted up in the last ten years
212
00:20:25,520 --> 00:20:27,240
to cater for the trekkers.
213
00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:38,040
The only problem with these wonderful
Himalayan viewpoints is that
actually, we can't see a thing.
214
00:20:38,040 --> 00:20:43,240
Deurali looked so wonderful
and inviting in the distance
with the sun shining on it.
215
00:20:43,240 --> 00:20:49,680
When you get here...after 15 minutes,
the clouds came down and now we can't
see a thing. It's also very cold.
216
00:20:49,680 --> 00:20:52,760
On top of that,
I'm not really feeling great.
217
00:20:52,760 --> 00:20:59,040
I think it might just be a cold,
but it might well be to do
with the effects of altitude.
218
00:20:59,040 --> 00:21:04,040
Who knows? I feel weary, and I know
along there is the path to Annapurna,
219
00:21:04,040 --> 00:21:10,000
so we're going to have to take that
again fairly soon. But for now,
keep taking the trekking honey.
220
00:21:11,640 --> 00:21:14,280
Rub it on, you'll feel a lot better.
221
00:21:25,920 --> 00:21:31,960
Halfway through the trek,
and for the first time, some
doubts are creeping into my mind.
222
00:21:34,360 --> 00:21:36,400
Oh, dear,
223
00:21:36,400 --> 00:21:38,640
I don't know how I'll go on today.
224
00:21:38,640 --> 00:21:40,840
Last night was pretty awful.
225
00:21:40,840 --> 00:21:43,400
I've got a throat like sandpaper,
226
00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:49,640
and altitudes are rather unforgiving,
from what I hear - things don't
get any better as you go up.
227
00:21:49,640 --> 00:21:53,120
Still, there's nowhere else to go.
Nothing for it.
228
00:21:53,120 --> 00:21:58,360
If I keep on,
I hope I prove them wrong - that
climbing does make you feel better.
229
00:22:19,480 --> 00:22:21,920
We're entering the avalanche area.
230
00:22:21,920 --> 00:22:26,000
When the snow comes down,
these sheer rock faces are lethal.
231
00:22:26,000 --> 00:22:28,200
Wongchu treats it with great respect.
232
00:22:28,200 --> 00:22:29,760
He's seen people killed here.
233
00:22:36,360 --> 00:22:39,440
I have my own private avalanches
to deal with.
234
00:22:39,440 --> 00:22:45,880
Waves of fatigue sweep over me,
requiring increasingly
regular breathers.
235
00:22:45,880 --> 00:22:47,920
Ah, well,
236
00:22:47,920 --> 00:22:51,200
that's the camp -
that's Machhapuchhre,
237
00:22:51,200 --> 00:22:56,000
named after the glorious mountain,
which is up there -
Fishtail Mountain -
238
00:22:56,000 --> 00:23:01,760
Macchapucchare, the sacred mountain,
so sacred that I don't think
they even kill animals here -
239
00:23:01,760 --> 00:23:07,840
it's all an entirely vegetarian diet.
Anyway, that's a little titbit.
It's sublime and wonderful scenery
240
00:23:07,840 --> 00:23:12,520
to be totally
and completely knackered in -
the last few...feet, 1,000 feet.
241
00:23:12,520 --> 00:23:17,960
It's taken it out of me.
I don't know if it's just this cold,
or it's the altitude,
242
00:23:17,960 --> 00:23:22,200
but really kind of just partly
acclimatising to much higher...
243
00:23:22,200 --> 00:23:25,440
higher areas we're going
to be going into -
244
00:23:25,440 --> 00:23:29,200
we're going up to Everest and
that'll be...that'll be much higher,
245
00:23:29,200 --> 00:23:34,880
so I just hope it is the cold and not
altitude sickness, but I'm knackered
to a standstill - it's pathetic!
246
00:23:34,880 --> 00:23:40,120
I had to give my pack to somebody,
I've become like a patient
being carried up the hill by...
247
00:23:40,120 --> 00:23:42,520
HE WHEEZES AND COUGHS
248
00:23:42,520 --> 00:23:45,640
That's a cough and a half!
249
00:23:45,640 --> 00:23:48,040
Cut to scenery!
250
00:24:01,080 --> 00:24:07,880
It takes me another hour to reach
Macchapucchare Base Camp, where
everyone seems infuriatingly happy.
251
00:24:21,760 --> 00:24:24,200
Wongchu, you're a great man,
thank you.
252
00:24:24,200 --> 00:24:27,280
I couldn't have done it without you.
Excuse me, sir,
253
00:24:27,280 --> 00:24:32,320
this is your tent... I just want
to collapse somewhere.
254
00:24:32,320 --> 00:24:35,360
This is your tent...
255
00:24:35,360 --> 00:24:37,040
Yes, lovely.
256
00:24:37,040 --> 00:24:44,080
I haven't the energy to get in at the
moment. I just want to stand here.
I'm so pleased we're here, look!
257
00:24:44,080 --> 00:24:45,520
Fantastic!
258
00:24:52,040 --> 00:24:54,640
Mmm, almost worth it.
259
00:25:03,640 --> 00:25:08,760
Thank you, Mingmar,
very good. You're welcome.
Would you like more?
260
00:25:08,760 --> 00:25:13,000
'My lungs are already
telling me we're pretty high.'
261
00:25:13,000 --> 00:25:19,360
In fact we're over 12,000ft, and
the view of the Annapurna Sanctuary
is a revelation.
262
00:25:19,360 --> 00:25:23,320
Nine of these summits
are above 23,000 feet.
263
00:25:23,320 --> 00:25:27,960
On the left side, it's...our
trekking peak. Trekking peak? Yes.
264
00:25:27,960 --> 00:25:30,000
People carry on walking up to that?
265
00:25:30,000 --> 00:25:35,080
Er, individual people can climb it.
It doesn't take that much...
266
00:25:35,080 --> 00:25:36,880
with Sherpas. It looks terrifying.
267
00:25:36,880 --> 00:25:41,080
And it takes such, not so long,
like a couple of days to climb.
268
00:25:41,080 --> 00:25:46,640
Huge snowfields up there,
on the...on the rim, aren't they...?
269
00:25:46,640 --> 00:25:52,400
And tomorrow when we get
to Annapurna, then we can see
all the glacier of the Annapurna.
270
00:25:52,400 --> 00:25:57,240
It's sensational.
I feel we're in the Himalayas now.
I haven't felt it quite yet.
271
00:25:57,240 --> 00:26:02,520
We've been to the Karakorum,
we've been to the Hindu Kush,
but this is it, you know?
272
00:26:02,520 --> 00:26:05,160
HE COUGHS AND SPLUTTERS
273
00:26:05,160 --> 00:26:07,800
..in the Himalaya!
274
00:26:11,440 --> 00:26:13,680
Can I have a lie down, please?
275
00:26:29,720 --> 00:26:33,240
Some time in the long night,
my cold turns a corner,
276
00:26:33,240 --> 00:26:37,200
and by the time Mingmar shakes
my tent to see if I'm still in it,
277
00:26:37,200 --> 00:26:41,720
I'm up and about, chewing the fat and
meeting with my fellow mountaineers.
278
00:26:43,400 --> 00:26:46,640
Is your friend climbing Annapurna?
Yeah, we have a friend,
279
00:26:46,640 --> 00:26:54,120
who is the leader of the expedition,
and another one - it is the last
8,000m mountain, last one.
280
00:26:54,120 --> 00:26:59,480
And have they got up? Annapurna,
south face is the last 8,000m.
281
00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:03,400
Wow. And he's summitted?
282
00:27:03,400 --> 00:27:04,960
He's got to the top?
283
00:27:04,960 --> 00:27:08,720
I hope... You hope? Tomorrow. Wow!
284
00:27:08,720 --> 00:27:14,600
So it's quite an exciting day for
you, just... Big party. Big party.
285
00:27:14,600 --> 00:27:16,400
Well, I hope he made it...
286
00:27:16,400 --> 00:27:19,320
OK. See you up.
287
00:27:19,320 --> 00:27:22,720
Good, good climbing, good climbing...
288
00:27:22,720 --> 00:27:24,280
Thank you.
289
00:27:24,280 --> 00:27:27,000
Yeah! Bye-bye.
290
00:27:28,960 --> 00:27:31,480
These are proper climbers.
291
00:27:31,480 --> 00:27:35,640
I feel just a terrible fraud,
really, but there you go!
292
00:27:38,600 --> 00:27:42,880
The sun may be bright on Annapurna,
but it's bitterly cold.
293
00:27:42,880 --> 00:27:50,360
Our porters seem still dressed
for the plains and they're carrying
loads of anything up to 40kg.
294
00:27:54,400 --> 00:27:55,960
Here we go.
295
00:27:55,960 --> 00:27:59,200
HE GROANS
I can just lift that!
296
00:27:59,200 --> 00:28:00,960
Thank you.
297
00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:05,480
Unbelievable, unbelievable.
298
00:28:05,480 --> 00:28:09,400
Superhuman. I don't see how
a body can cope with all that.
299
00:28:09,400 --> 00:28:13,520
I suppose once it's up there,
you're OK. ..A smile!
300
00:28:13,520 --> 00:28:15,760
A smile, OK.
301
00:28:15,760 --> 00:28:18,400
Well, good on you.
302
00:28:18,400 --> 00:28:19,800
Respect.
303
00:28:19,800 --> 00:28:23,720
And there's me
not even carrying my toothbrush.
304
00:29:14,520 --> 00:29:19,640
I can't quite believe it. The end is
in sight. Annapurna, Base Camp, ABC.
305
00:29:19,640 --> 00:29:23,800
I'm so glad, despite the near
collapse of the system yesterday,
306
00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:28,280
that I made it, because it's
just a stunning, stunning place,
307
00:29:28,280 --> 00:29:32,520
and I would have missed all this, the
Annapurnas one, two, three and four.
308
00:29:32,520 --> 00:29:37,720
Unimaginative, but there are lots
of Annapurnas - isn't that stunning?
309
00:29:37,720 --> 00:29:42,560
I think I'm going to get there - I
have a feeling I'm going to make it.
310
00:29:42,560 --> 00:29:45,040
Argh!
311
00:30:06,480 --> 00:30:11,960
Well, I suppose this symbolises our
achievement of the last five days.
312
00:30:11,960 --> 00:30:16,040
This is the summit of Annapurna
and it's just breathtaking,
313
00:30:16,040 --> 00:30:20,360
really extraordinary,
powerful scenery round here.
314
00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:25,640
Despite everything, I feel that
Annapurna has prepared me well.
315
00:30:25,640 --> 00:30:31,440
At least I know what to
expect as we head for Kathmandu,
Everest and beyond.
316
00:30:35,720 --> 00:30:40,640
After the emptiness of the mountains,
Kathmandu comes as quite a shock.
317
00:30:40,640 --> 00:30:46,720
Almost a million are squeezed
into Nepal's capital, built on
the widest valley in the Himalaya.
318
00:30:47,920 --> 00:30:50,480
CAR HORNS HONK
319
00:30:56,040 --> 00:30:59,960
Kathmandu must be used to crowds.
320
00:30:59,960 --> 00:31:04,360
It's long been the meeting place
for traders between India and Tibet.
321
00:31:04,360 --> 00:31:08,040
When Nepal opened up to the rest
of the world in the 1960s,
322
00:31:08,040 --> 00:31:13,080
the spirit of easygoing tolerance
that drew the hippies
sparked a tourist invasion.
323
00:31:13,080 --> 00:31:18,120
For me, the dazzling surprise is
the beauty of the old buildings.
324
00:31:18,120 --> 00:31:22,440
These are the work
of the Newar people.
325
00:31:22,440 --> 00:31:26,280
They invented the pagoda here
and took it to China.
326
00:31:36,040 --> 00:31:40,880
In Durbar Square, in the old city
of Patan, local newspaper editor,
327
00:31:40,880 --> 00:31:44,240
Kundar Dixit
explains this rich heritage.
328
00:31:44,240 --> 00:31:50,080
The whole mixture in Kathmandu
Valley, which is what's unique about
it, is the idiosyncratic mixture
329
00:31:50,080 --> 00:31:54,120
of Hinduism and Buddhism
that gave rise to this Tantric part.
330
00:32:02,240 --> 00:32:06,160
And it's a kind of living place,
still - people do come here.
331
00:32:06,160 --> 00:32:11,320
I can see people sort of come
to offer prayers and all that...
It's not a museum. It's, you know...
332
00:32:11,320 --> 00:32:17,920
They said there are more temples in
Kathmandu than houses, and more gods
than people. That has changed now,
333
00:32:17,920 --> 00:32:24,680
but it's still a living place -
you see people going off to pray
in the temples, from their houses.
334
00:32:24,680 --> 00:32:27,080
BELL CLANGS
335
00:32:27,080 --> 00:32:32,160
So commerce goes on,
as well as the sort of...
336
00:32:32,160 --> 00:32:38,000
'Nepal's love affair with
tourism is pretty obvious,
but there are clouds on the horizon.'
337
00:32:38,000 --> 00:32:42,080
As you can see, business is down...
Is it? I mean, I can't tell,
338
00:32:42,080 --> 00:32:48,000
but I've heard that it has suffered
because...is this because
of the Maoist problems?
339
00:32:48,000 --> 00:32:54,520
Well, that too, but also
internationally, I mean since 9/11,
our tourism's down in every respect.
340
00:32:54,520 --> 00:33:01,200
'The security nightmare is that
the Maoists will bring their
fight from the country to the city.'
341
00:33:01,200 --> 00:33:07,080
So there's going to have to be
accommodation and compromise? Yes.
There is no military solution.
342
00:33:07,080 --> 00:33:10,960
Both sides have even said that
there is no military solution.
343
00:33:10,960 --> 00:33:17,120
This is a messy war in the world's
hardest terrain. No-one will win -
it'll just take the country down.
344
00:33:21,800 --> 00:33:28,920
It must be quite exciting for you
as a newspaper man to deal with this.
Do you feel that you can take part
345
00:33:28,920 --> 00:33:34,880
in the debate?
Well, you know, we started
our paper about four years ago,
346
00:33:34,880 --> 00:33:40,400
just when the country started going
to the dogs, so maybe we're partly
responsible for this!
347
00:33:40,400 --> 00:33:48,280
I mean, but no, I think it's
an exciting time to be here, and
Nepal's press has never been freer,
348
00:33:48,280 --> 00:33:53,160
in a sense... That's good. ..because
there used to be curbs on reporting,
349
00:33:53,160 --> 00:33:56,400
for example on the monarchy,
on the military and so forth.
350
00:33:56,400 --> 00:34:00,400
There's none of that any more.
So there's a real paradox here.
351
00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:05,760
Here's a country,
there's an insurgency going on,
but the press is totally free.
352
00:34:05,760 --> 00:34:11,400
The Prime Minister has been sacked,
parliament is in limbo,
but the press is free.
353
00:34:11,400 --> 00:34:17,000
So I think, um...that's why I
think the challenge is to use that
freedom, to bring about change,
354
00:34:17,000 --> 00:34:21,440
and then spread the consciousness
about people's rights.
355
00:34:21,440 --> 00:34:28,000
We've been tipped off
that the king is attending a ceremony
in the heart of Kathmandu tonight.
356
00:34:28,000 --> 00:34:30,400
Security is tight.
357
00:34:30,400 --> 00:34:34,840
King Gyanendra came to the throne
less than three years ago,
358
00:34:34,840 --> 00:34:40,040
after nine members
of the royal family were murdered
by the crown prince.
359
00:34:40,040 --> 00:34:44,160
The threat of assassination
is on everyone's mind.
360
00:34:44,160 --> 00:34:49,400
This rare ceremony, in which
the king accepts the blessings
of the goddess Bhadrakali,
361
00:34:49,400 --> 00:34:52,680
is seen as a vital endorsement
for the beleaguered monarchy.
362
00:34:56,440 --> 00:35:04,280
Judging by the queues outside
the royal palace next morning, the
monarchy still has its supporters.
363
00:35:04,280 --> 00:35:10,120
Along with Pratima Pande, a cousin
of the king, I join those standing
in line to receive his blessing
364
00:35:10,120 --> 00:35:14,200
at the important Hindu festival
of Dashain.
365
00:35:23,840 --> 00:35:28,040
Looking a bit like a hotel
receptionist on a very busy day,
366
00:35:28,040 --> 00:35:33,000
the king plants one "tika"
after another on the foreheads
of his people.
367
00:35:42,480 --> 00:35:48,720
The tika - a mix of curd, rice
and vermilion powder - is applied
in strictly hierarchical order.
368
00:35:48,720 --> 00:35:54,440
Ministers, politicians,
politicians' wives, army generals,
369
00:35:54,440 --> 00:35:58,480
and, to the king's evident surprise,
English television presenters.
370
00:35:58,480 --> 00:36:02,960
SHE SPEAKS IN DIALECT
Michael Palin, BBC.
371
00:36:05,720 --> 00:36:08,120
'And I get a handshake as well.'
372
00:36:08,120 --> 00:36:12,320
I hope you are enjoying
our festival. Absolutely!
373
00:36:12,320 --> 00:36:17,760
It's a wonderful start to our time
here, to enjoy the rest of Nepal.
Thank you.
374
00:36:23,660 --> 00:36:26,540
1, 2, 3!
375
00:36:29,400 --> 00:36:34,140
Apart from the bestowing of
blessings, the festival of Dashain
376
00:36:34,140 --> 00:36:40,960
is the only time when the Nepalis
are allowed to gamble.
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8!
377
00:36:40,960 --> 00:36:43,440
It's by four, so eight!
378
00:36:43,440 --> 00:36:48,480
Oh, right! He wins everybody's money.
He wins everybody's money?
379
00:36:48,480 --> 00:36:53,000
Cowrie shells are shaken like dice
and bets taken on how they fall.
380
00:36:58,440 --> 00:37:02,000
'The trouble is,
only one man ever seems to win.'
381
00:37:02,000 --> 00:37:04,600
He wins again!
382
00:37:09,320 --> 00:37:13,280
Pratima, Pratima,
I think I've been set up!
383
00:37:13,280 --> 00:37:17,560
You've invited me here and set me up!
Your husband's a banker,
384
00:37:17,560 --> 00:37:23,160
you're trying
to get British investment
into the country and...I don't know!
385
00:37:26,560 --> 00:37:33,320
Next morning, Pratima takes me
to the more sober surroundings
of the temple at Pashupatinath.
386
00:37:33,320 --> 00:37:39,640
90% of Nepalese are Hindu,
and this is considered the
holiest Hindu site outside India.
387
00:37:39,640 --> 00:37:45,080
Across the river are the ghats where
cremations take place in public.
388
00:37:45,080 --> 00:37:51,040
The complex also includes
a large enclosure where holy men,
389
00:37:51,040 --> 00:37:55,120
dedicated to the god Shiva,
live in well-publicised seclusion.
390
00:37:55,120 --> 00:38:00,800
This looks like an ashram,
this place for the holy men. Yes.
391
00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:06,560
Sadhus.
These are men who have renounced
all their worldly possessions
392
00:38:06,560 --> 00:38:13,000
and belongings, and given
up their lives to this temple
and to Lord Shiva
393
00:38:13,000 --> 00:38:18,280
and you can see that
they're dressed like Lord Shiva,
or their appearances are like that.
394
00:38:18,280 --> 00:38:22,080
Lord Shiva smears himself
with ash...
395
00:38:25,080 --> 00:38:31,040
How old are you, sir? I have
56 years. 56 years, and you've
been 20 years here, in... Yes, yes.
396
00:38:31,040 --> 00:38:35,640
And before that, were you also...?
Were you a Sadhu before that?
397
00:38:35,640 --> 00:38:38,560
Er, Sadhu, 35 years.
398
00:38:38,560 --> 00:38:44,280
35 years. Yes, yes...
and that...86 years...
399
00:38:44,280 --> 00:38:49,680
86! Great respect. 86 years...
HE SPEAKS IN DIALECT
400
00:38:53,400 --> 00:38:57,800
86 years without
a razor or a scissor.
401
00:38:57,800 --> 00:39:00,840
Because he's very, very thin.
402
00:39:00,840 --> 00:39:04,520
Very thin. Is he... Are you strong?
403
00:39:04,520 --> 00:39:11,080
HE SPEAKS IN DIALECT
He does yoga.
404
00:39:11,080 --> 00:39:14,480
I don't want him to,
if he doesn't want to...
405
00:39:33,520 --> 00:39:37,560
'I only hope I can get
a leg over at 86!'
406
00:39:45,520 --> 00:39:48,040
Down at the Ghats,
business is brisk,
407
00:39:48,040 --> 00:39:52,760
as funeral pyres and attendants are
worked flat out to cope with demand.
408
00:39:55,440 --> 00:39:57,160
I think every Hindu,
409
00:39:57,160 --> 00:39:59,720
or every religious person...
410
00:39:59,720 --> 00:40:03,400
comes to Pashupatinath.
It is THE place to be cremated.
411
00:40:03,400 --> 00:40:06,880
Sons carry the body
and walk barefoot,
412
00:40:06,880 --> 00:40:10,080
and they bring the body
to Pashupatinath and leave them.
413
00:40:10,080 --> 00:40:13,440
They walk through the town barefoot
and bring the body here?
414
00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:16,240
Yes. And there's no burial
in the Hindu religion?
415
00:40:16,240 --> 00:40:17,840
No. It's always cremation.
416
00:40:22,560 --> 00:40:26,040
They shave their heads also,
after the cremation.
417
00:40:26,040 --> 00:40:29,640
A sign of mourning is that
you shave your heads, for men.
418
00:40:30,880 --> 00:40:34,560
When the royal family all died
and they had...
419
00:40:34,560 --> 00:40:38,040
Were they all, sort of,
cremated about the same time? Yes.
420
00:40:38,040 --> 00:40:40,520
Five of them were cremated
on the same day,
421
00:40:40,520 --> 00:40:42,280
along the banks of the river.
422
00:40:42,280 --> 00:40:45,960
It was very sad
and unbelievable and...
423
00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:49,600
everyone was...traumatised,
put it that way.
424
00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:53,120
The whole of the valley,
nation, was traumatised. Yeah.
425
00:40:54,840 --> 00:40:57,280
BELLS CHIME
426
00:41:20,360 --> 00:41:23,240
Well, this morning,
there can be no more delaying
427
00:41:23,240 --> 00:41:25,160
or beating about the bush.
428
00:41:25,160 --> 00:41:29,000
We can no longer put off the
toughest part of a tough journey.
429
00:41:29,000 --> 00:41:33,120
The time has come
to cross the Himalaya.
430
00:41:34,200 --> 00:41:38,320
Leaving Kathmandu, we shall drive
north across the border,
431
00:41:38,320 --> 00:41:41,360
from the
land of Maoists to the land of Mao,
432
00:41:41,360 --> 00:41:43,840
turning off the main road to Lhasa
433
00:41:43,840 --> 00:41:47,840
and making for Base Camp
at the North Face of Everest.
434
00:41:50,880 --> 00:41:53,200
The mountains begin to close in
435
00:41:53,200 --> 00:41:56,200
and, as we round one
of the last corners in Nepal,
436
00:41:56,200 --> 00:42:00,520
there at the end of the valley
is my first glimpse of Tibet.
437
00:42:04,360 --> 00:42:08,560
But now it's the red flag of China
that flies over its frontier.
438
00:42:09,840 --> 00:42:12,440
Well, this is a very special place.
439
00:42:12,440 --> 00:42:15,080
This is Friendship Bridge behind me,
440
00:42:15,080 --> 00:42:18,560
which connects Nepal and China.
441
00:42:18,560 --> 00:42:23,120
And it's one of two international
crossing points in the whole region.
442
00:42:23,120 --> 00:42:26,480
The other one being the Khunjerav
Pass and the Karakorum Highway -
443
00:42:26,480 --> 00:42:28,480
blocked when we went there.
444
00:42:28,480 --> 00:42:33,720
So this currently seems to be
the only way of getting through
the Himalayas on a major route.
445
00:42:33,720 --> 00:42:37,760
Quite why we attempt a rear entry
into China, I'll never know.
446
00:42:37,760 --> 00:42:40,920
It's all part
of the usual border confusion.
447
00:42:40,920 --> 00:42:45,360
But though I may not know where I'm
going, I know what I leave behind.
448
00:42:45,360 --> 00:42:48,400
Goodbye. Yes, thank you.
Thank you so much. Yes.
449
00:42:48,400 --> 00:42:51,440
I don't quite know
what happens now.
450
00:42:51,440 --> 00:42:54,280
Wongchu, it's time to say goodbye.
451
00:42:54,280 --> 00:42:59,200
Don't leave me here! Don't leave me
here! How'll I survive without you?
452
00:42:59,200 --> 00:43:02,640
What's your last message to me?
Eat food. Always eat.
453
00:43:02,640 --> 00:43:04,720
Yes. Keep eating. Keep eating.
454
00:43:04,720 --> 00:43:07,680
Eat and drink. OK, but no alcohol?
No alcohol...
455
00:43:07,680 --> 00:43:09,680
in the mountains! In the mountains.
456
00:43:14,240 --> 00:43:19,320
Once across the border,
we climb astonishingly quickly,
out of the verdant valleys
457
00:43:19,320 --> 00:43:23,440
and on to the treeless lunar
landscape of the Tibetan plateau.
458
00:43:27,480 --> 00:43:30,080
They call this the roof of the world
459
00:43:30,080 --> 00:43:34,000
and for the next few weeks,
I won't drop below 13,000 feet.
460
00:43:51,400 --> 00:43:54,640
The prayer flags
that mark the high passes
461
00:43:54,640 --> 00:43:59,280
show that despite efforts by
the Chinese in the 1960s and '70s,
462
00:43:59,280 --> 00:44:01,360
religion still exists here.
463
00:44:01,360 --> 00:44:05,440
What no longer exists
is a country called Tibet.
464
00:44:05,440 --> 00:44:10,200
We are now in what is officially
the Tibet Autonomous Region -
465
00:44:10,200 --> 00:44:13,240
a part of the
People's Republic of China.
466
00:44:13,240 --> 00:44:17,440
Whatever you call it,
it's a land of superlatives.
467
00:44:20,720 --> 00:44:22,880
Look at that!
468
00:44:22,880 --> 00:44:26,120
MICHAEL CHUCKLES
Wow!
469
00:44:26,120 --> 00:44:30,320
Well, great moment.
My first...first view of Everest.
470
00:44:30,320 --> 00:44:34,040
I mean, apart from photos
in restaurants and things like that.
471
00:44:34,040 --> 00:44:38,120
And...just the most glorious,
mighty view.
472
00:44:38,120 --> 00:44:41,240
And it's the very, very heart
of the Himalayas out there -
473
00:44:41,240 --> 00:44:46,640
giant mountains and four or five
of them all over 8,000 metres.
474
00:44:46,640 --> 00:44:51,160
And Everest there, just slightly,
um...touched by the cloud.
475
00:44:51,160 --> 00:44:53,760
Absolutely epic.
476
00:44:53,760 --> 00:44:57,760
It really does...
does, um...make it all worthwhile.
477
00:44:57,760 --> 00:45:00,960
It's also the highest
I've ever been in my life.
478
00:45:00,960 --> 00:45:02,720
I'm at about, um...
479
00:45:02,720 --> 00:45:05,960
5,300 metres now,
which is about 17...
480
00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:09,280
over 17,000 feet,
so a big first.
481
00:45:09,280 --> 00:45:12,840
And the sun's shining!
Unbelievable! Unbelievable!
482
00:45:12,840 --> 00:45:15,440
Now all we've got to do is get there!
483
00:45:20,800 --> 00:45:24,840
Everything is abruptly
and dramatically different up here.
484
00:45:24,840 --> 00:45:28,520
From the look of the buildings,
whitewashed in Buddhist style,
485
00:45:28,520 --> 00:45:33,120
to the look of the people -
Mongolian rather than Indian.
486
00:45:33,120 --> 00:45:35,760
PEOPLE SING A FOLK TUNE
487
00:45:49,560 --> 00:45:53,880
In one village a festival has just
begun. My Tibetan guide, Migmar,
488
00:45:53,880 --> 00:45:57,080
tells me these sort of things
go on for days.
489
00:46:08,720 --> 00:46:12,720
So we have to hire some yaks
from local people.
490
00:46:12,720 --> 00:46:14,440
Some yaks? Yes.
491
00:46:14,440 --> 00:46:18,320
It's difficult to get permission to
film in the Tibet Autonomous Region
492
00:46:18,320 --> 00:46:23,720
and I know everything we do will
be closely monitored, but as Migmar
explains our plans for Everest,
493
00:46:23,720 --> 00:46:27,400
this only adds
to the sense of adventure.
494
00:46:27,400 --> 00:46:31,400
The monastery, between the Everest
Base Camp and the monastery,
495
00:46:31,400 --> 00:46:33,280
they are 8km.
496
00:46:33,280 --> 00:46:36,760
So we need to hire some yak
from that monastery
497
00:46:36,760 --> 00:46:40,360
to carry our equipments
to Everest Base Camp. Yes.
498
00:46:40,360 --> 00:46:45,880
So the yak don't mind the height?
I mean, they can survive
in very cold, high altitude? Yes.
499
00:46:45,880 --> 00:46:50,520
But yak usually like, normally
like, high altitude. Yeah, they do.
500
00:46:50,520 --> 00:46:54,360
Yeah, if they go down...
feeling not so good.
501
00:46:56,440 --> 00:46:59,920
A road takes us close
to Everest Base Camp.
502
00:46:59,920 --> 00:47:04,920
It was built by the Chinese
to support their successful
ascent of the North Face in 1960.
503
00:47:06,440 --> 00:47:08,760
Rongbuk consists of a monastery,
504
00:47:08,760 --> 00:47:12,640
half a street, a guest house
and an almost unbelievable view
505
00:47:12,640 --> 00:47:16,000
of the highest point on the planet.
506
00:47:17,760 --> 00:47:20,920
This is the highest monastery
in the world.
507
00:47:20,920 --> 00:47:23,440
It's just been rebuilt
by the local monks
508
00:47:23,440 --> 00:47:25,480
to replace an older one destroyed,
509
00:47:25,480 --> 00:47:28,520
along with thousands of others
in Tibet,
510
00:47:28,520 --> 00:47:30,680
during the Cultural Revolution.
511
00:47:30,680 --> 00:47:34,800
The monastery is home to 30 monks
and 30 nuns.
512
00:47:34,800 --> 00:47:37,240
MONKS AND NUNS CHANT
513
00:47:59,000 --> 00:48:02,880
'It's hard to imagine
what degree of devotion
514
00:48:02,880 --> 00:48:07,520
'enables them to survive the bitter
cold and isolation up in Rongbuk.'
515
00:48:07,520 --> 00:48:11,600
It's a cold, cold place.
I've brought you this...
516
00:48:11,600 --> 00:48:15,040
'The gift I present to the abbot
seems to offer a clue.
517
00:48:19,120 --> 00:48:22,560
'It's a thangka,
a painted scroll, from Kathmandu,
518
00:48:22,560 --> 00:48:24,760
'of the Buddha, the Enlightened One.'
519
00:48:24,760 --> 00:48:27,000
MONKS CHATTER
520
00:48:33,640 --> 00:48:36,200
'They look at it with real affection.
521
00:48:36,200 --> 00:48:41,280
'The harder their life is,
the closer it will bring them
to an understanding of him.'
522
00:48:43,880 --> 00:48:47,600
'What Buddha would have made of the
Rongbuk Guest House, I don't know.
523
00:48:47,600 --> 00:48:51,200
'Run by the monks, it's Spartan,
to say the least.
524
00:48:51,200 --> 00:48:54,440
'The consolation
is having Everest as my neighbour
525
00:48:54,440 --> 00:48:57,920
'and the weather out there
looks good enough to raise hopes
526
00:48:57,920 --> 00:49:01,520
'for a climb up to Base Camp
tomorrow, Sunday.'
527
00:49:02,760 --> 00:49:05,600
The good news is
our transport's arrived.
528
00:49:22,080 --> 00:49:26,320
The only problem with being
so close to Everest...
529
00:49:26,320 --> 00:49:28,360
it's, um...you're very high up,
530
00:49:28,360 --> 00:49:32,080
there's very little oxygen
and you have to keep breathing...
531
00:49:32,080 --> 00:49:37,240
very hard! When you're just slightly
dozing off, suddenly, oh! Wake up,
532
00:49:37,240 --> 00:49:40,560
gasping for breath,
trying to just get that oxygen in.
533
00:49:40,560 --> 00:49:43,600
So it's actually
bloody uncomfortable at night.
534
00:49:43,600 --> 00:49:45,760
I know Everest is out of the window,
535
00:49:45,760 --> 00:49:48,320
I know it looks lovely,
but I'd exchange it
536
00:49:48,320 --> 00:49:52,760
for being two foot off the ground,
with showers and a flushing toilet.
537
00:50:16,160 --> 00:50:19,120
Conditions next morning are perfect.
538
00:50:23,960 --> 00:50:27,440
Prayers for our safety are written
and hung with all the others,
539
00:50:27,440 --> 00:50:30,520
to be carried with the wind,
up to the gods.
540
00:50:33,800 --> 00:50:36,800
I find walking still quite
an effort at this height,
541
00:50:36,800 --> 00:50:39,280
but as we head towards Everest,
542
00:50:39,280 --> 00:50:42,680
I've a feeling that adrenaline
will overcome altitude.
543
00:51:22,760 --> 00:51:26,200
Well, I don't know if it's the yaks,
or the Everest effect,
544
00:51:26,200 --> 00:51:29,640
or the fact that I don't have the
stinking cold I had on Annapurna,
545
00:51:29,640 --> 00:51:31,840
but I'm actually enjoying this!
546
00:51:31,840 --> 00:51:35,320
We're higher than on Annapurna
and I'm feeling pretty good so far,
547
00:51:35,320 --> 00:51:38,240
I'll go a little further up Everest,
as they say. See you!
548
00:51:40,000 --> 00:51:42,000
Hang on!
549
00:51:45,440 --> 00:51:47,960
YAKS' BELLS RING
550
00:52:06,640 --> 00:52:10,640
Sunday lunch is taken
at a little over 17,000 feet.
551
00:52:20,440 --> 00:52:23,840
This is what we call
black tea and...
552
00:52:23,840 --> 00:52:27,120
and butter...simple life...
553
00:52:27,120 --> 00:52:30,120
in the countryside... Yes.
554
00:52:30,120 --> 00:52:32,000
The same like this.
555
00:52:32,000 --> 00:52:37,120
We have first the lunch, dinner...
we have...and supper. Oh, supper.
556
00:52:37,120 --> 00:52:40,920
That's barley? Yes? Yes, barley.
And is...that's to make a drink?
557
00:52:40,920 --> 00:52:43,760
Or...or to eat? For to eat.
558
00:52:43,760 --> 00:52:45,800
Yes. So it's black tea. Oh.
559
00:52:45,800 --> 00:52:48,600
That's for you. Thank you.
560
00:52:48,600 --> 00:52:50,920
Thank you.
561
00:52:50,920 --> 00:52:55,360
Yak butter in it? An experiment.
Well, I suppose, yes.
562
00:52:56,400 --> 00:52:59,440
A bit of yak butter, I suppose.
563
00:52:59,440 --> 00:53:01,920
That really makes it taste better,
probably,
564
00:53:01,920 --> 00:53:04,080
does it, or taste worse?
565
00:53:04,080 --> 00:53:06,720
OK. Whoops!
566
00:53:08,760 --> 00:53:11,640
Cheers to you all.
567
00:53:11,640 --> 00:53:14,640
Thanks, guys, very much,
568
00:53:14,640 --> 00:53:17,760
for getting us up this far...
569
00:53:17,760 --> 00:53:20,800
Not too much further for me,
no doubt.
570
00:53:20,800 --> 00:53:23,560
Ah, mmm! Good? Yes. Mmm.
571
00:53:23,560 --> 00:53:26,600
Nice? Yes, good, actually. Salty.
572
00:53:26,600 --> 00:53:28,640
Salty tea, very good.
573
00:53:33,080 --> 00:53:35,600
Do these guys have any,
sort of, um...
574
00:53:35,600 --> 00:53:39,440
anything other than tea
that warms them up on the way? Yes.
575
00:53:39,440 --> 00:53:43,920
They have some alcohol,
chung here. Chung? Barley beer.
576
00:53:43,920 --> 00:53:46,800
Barley beer. Ah. Chung.
Is it good?
577
00:53:47,960 --> 00:53:51,400
The tea was good, so...
Would you like to try?
578
00:53:51,400 --> 00:53:53,440
Yeah, I'll try a bit. OK.
579
00:53:53,440 --> 00:53:56,000
That's rather an attractive bottle.
580
00:53:56,000 --> 00:54:00,240
So this is made of...?
This is barley, really...?
581
00:54:00,240 --> 00:54:03,200
Barley. Yes. Lovely.
582
00:54:03,200 --> 00:54:06,040
Ah, right, lovely.
583
00:54:06,040 --> 00:54:09,920
A bit of chung,
OK, cheers! Down the hatch! Cheers!
584
00:54:09,920 --> 00:54:13,240
Bottoms up,
as they say in the Sahara!
585
00:54:13,240 --> 00:54:15,800
Bottoms up? Oh! Wow! Agh!
586
00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:19,000
Oh! Mmm!
587
00:54:19,000 --> 00:54:20,920
It's very cold.
588
00:54:22,080 --> 00:54:24,240
Cold and strong and quite appley.
589
00:54:24,240 --> 00:54:28,160
What do you think I am?
An alcoholic?
590
00:54:28,160 --> 00:54:30,880
Yes. Yes. Is it strong?
591
00:54:30,880 --> 00:54:35,320
Usually, custom, we do this...
What do you do?
592
00:54:35,320 --> 00:54:41,240
First, this is for Buddha. Right.
Second for God.
Third one for heaven. Oh, right.
593
00:54:41,240 --> 00:54:43,760
Then we can...three times. OK.
594
00:54:43,760 --> 00:54:45,800
OK. Yes.
595
00:54:45,800 --> 00:54:48,000
Usually for Chomolunga.
596
00:54:48,000 --> 00:54:51,560
First one for Chomolunga.
First one for... Little finger.
597
00:54:51,560 --> 00:54:55,200
..Chomolungma, which, of course,
is what...for Everest? OK.
598
00:54:55,200 --> 00:54:58,000
Chomolunga! OK!
599
00:54:58,000 --> 00:55:01,080
Next one for Buddha. Buddha. Yes.
600
00:55:01,080 --> 00:55:03,720
For Buddha! The great Buddha.
601
00:55:03,720 --> 00:55:06,960
Third one for human. Third one
for human? For human beings.
602
00:55:06,960 --> 00:55:09,800
Third one for human beings. Whee!
603
00:55:09,800 --> 00:55:13,240
Right. And then...? Drink. Yes.
604
00:55:16,960 --> 00:55:21,280
Ah! That's great. It's like a,
sort of, appley ginger beer.
605
00:55:22,440 --> 00:55:25,840
It doesn't feel strong.
Is it strong? Yes, it's very strong.
606
00:55:25,840 --> 00:55:28,480
GUIDE SPEAKS IN TIBETAN
607
00:55:41,760 --> 00:55:47,640
I suppose one of the great events
of my childhood was the
conquest of Everest in 1953,
608
00:55:47,640 --> 00:55:51,120
but as a boy I can remember
being even more fascinated
609
00:55:51,120 --> 00:55:55,920
by the idea that Everest might
have been climbed 30 years before.
610
00:55:55,920 --> 00:55:59,400
In 1924, a guy called George Mallory
611
00:55:59,400 --> 00:56:03,960
made Base Camp here for an attempt
on the North Face of Everest.
612
00:56:03,960 --> 00:56:06,880
A few weeks later,
he and his climbing partner,
613
00:56:06,880 --> 00:56:08,840
Andrew Irvine, were observed
614
00:56:08,840 --> 00:56:11,840
disappearing into a cloud
only a few hundred yards
615
00:56:11,840 --> 00:56:15,520
from the summit of Everest.
Neither were ever seen again.
616
00:56:16,600 --> 00:56:18,720
It's one of the great mysteries.
617
00:56:18,720 --> 00:56:21,920
Did they, or did they not,
climb Everest in 1924?
618
00:56:21,920 --> 00:56:24,280
Well, I'm not going to attempt that!
619
00:56:24,280 --> 00:56:27,280
We've still got
a lot of the Himalayas to see,
620
00:56:27,280 --> 00:56:30,920
so I think I'll call it quits
here at Everest Base Camp.
621
00:56:30,920 --> 00:56:33,920
The trouble is that the yak
herders are such lovely people
622
00:56:33,920 --> 00:56:37,560
that we might just tag along
for a bit, get a little closer.
623
00:57:05,120 --> 00:57:07,960
Much has been written
of the lure of Everest,
624
00:57:07,960 --> 00:57:11,000
and though I don't have the energy
to dance up and down,
625
00:57:11,000 --> 00:57:14,720
I do feel a quickening of the heart
the closer we come to the mountain.
626
00:57:14,720 --> 00:57:17,800
Maybe it's easier to understand this
627
00:57:17,800 --> 00:57:21,200
if we forget that Everest was named
after a Victorian map maker
628
00:57:21,200 --> 00:57:23,480
and call this mighty mountain
629
00:57:23,480 --> 00:57:25,480
by her Tibetan name -
630
00:57:25,480 --> 00:57:28,320
Chomolungma,
Goddess Mother of the Earth.
631
00:57:46,640 --> 00:57:51,360
Next time on Himalaya,
I cross the Tibetan Plateau,
632
00:57:51,360 --> 00:57:55,200
see inside great monasteries,
633
00:57:55,200 --> 00:57:58,080
land up in Lhasa -
the Forbidden City -
634
00:57:58,080 --> 00:58:00,320
watch kung-fu debating
635
00:58:00,320 --> 00:58:03,040
and spinning prayer wheels,
636
00:58:03,040 --> 00:58:05,920
attempt a builder's line dance.
637
00:58:05,920 --> 00:58:08,920
I see pilgrims,
638
00:58:08,920 --> 00:58:11,840
holy lakes on the roof of the world,
639
00:58:11,840 --> 00:58:14,680
Tibet's equivalent
of the Eurovision Song Contest
640
00:58:14,680 --> 00:58:17,520
and all the fun of the horse fair.
641
00:58:17,520 --> 00:58:20,360
Himalaya,
entertainment at the highest level.
60076
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