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1
00:00:02,035 --> 00:00:04,702
We left with hopes and dreams.
2
00:00:04,786 --> 00:00:07,869
Those hopes and dreams
are now gonna be reality.
3
00:00:07,952 --> 00:00:09,535
♪ (TENSE MUSIC PLAYS) ♪
4
00:00:09,619 --> 00:00:10,952
I knew that the biggest waves
in the world
5
00:00:11,202 --> 00:00:13,661
were gonna be ridden
in Nazare.
6
00:00:13,869 --> 00:00:15,619
So, we came back the next year.
7
00:00:16,327 --> 00:00:19,452
We felt that this was possibly
gonna be the biggest ever.
8
00:00:19,661 --> 00:00:21,911
SPEAKER: They came where
the swell was picking up.
9
00:00:21,993 --> 00:00:23,202
Big set.
10
00:00:23,285 --> 00:00:26,911
MACNAMARA: Everything felt good,
I was like this new man.
11
00:00:27,452 --> 00:00:30,535
SPEAKER 2:
Oh my god, that is a beast.
12
00:00:30,952 --> 00:00:31,911
SPEAKER 3: There was no doubt.
13
00:00:32,285 --> 00:00:33,827
And you know it was
the biggest wave ever surfed.
14
00:00:33,911 --> 00:00:35,160
(CHEERING)
15
00:00:35,243 --> 00:00:37,869
SPEAKER 4: That was the moment
all eyes came on Nazare.
16
00:00:37,952 --> 00:00:39,452
♪ (MUSIC SWELLS) ♪
17
00:00:43,160 --> 00:00:44,535
[TV static drones]
18
00:00:44,619 --> 00:00:46,744
[bright tone]
19
00:00:50,577 --> 00:00:53,035
- My mom's never been
to Portugal.
20
00:00:53,118 --> 00:00:56,993
We're really excited
to have her here.
21
00:00:57,077 --> 00:00:59,202
It's gonna be--you know,
sometimes it's tough
22
00:00:59,285 --> 00:01:00,869
to have my mom around,
23
00:01:00,952 --> 00:01:03,035
but since Nicole's come
into my life,
24
00:01:03,118 --> 00:01:05,035
it's been a joyful experience.
25
00:01:05,118 --> 00:01:06,869
Every time we hang out
with her,
26
00:01:06,952 --> 00:01:10,869
it's been wonderful, so I think
it's gonna be great.
27
00:01:10,952 --> 00:01:15,243
Oh!
- Oh, there she is!
28
00:01:15,327 --> 00:01:18,077
- Wow.
29
00:01:18,160 --> 00:01:22,243
2011, my mom wanted
to come visit us,
30
00:01:22,327 --> 00:01:27,243
and it was a challenging trip,
a very challenging trip.
31
00:01:27,327 --> 00:01:28,911
[heavy string music]
32
00:01:28,993 --> 00:01:31,786
- Why you come over here
to Portugal?
33
00:01:31,869 --> 00:01:34,744
- To see Garrett surfing
these awesome waves
34
00:01:34,827 --> 00:01:38,202
and to look at the country
while I have that opportunity
35
00:01:38,285 --> 00:01:41,577
to be with him--it's mostly
to be with him.
36
00:01:41,661 --> 00:01:46,077
Oh, please get out of there!
Ooh!
37
00:01:46,160 --> 00:01:49,577
To be honest, it would really,
really scare me
38
00:01:49,661 --> 00:01:52,535
to know that Garrett was
surfing huge waves
39
00:01:52,619 --> 00:01:54,577
because I know they're deadly,
40
00:01:54,661 --> 00:01:57,202
but because I have my faith
in God,
41
00:01:57,285 --> 00:02:00,619
and Garrett will be
on this planet as long
42
00:02:00,702 --> 00:02:05,327
as he needs to be here,
I'm not worried.
43
00:02:05,410 --> 00:02:08,535
- My relationship
with my mom is really good,
44
00:02:08,619 --> 00:02:14,535
but she's a very strict
born-again Christian.
45
00:02:14,619 --> 00:02:16,993
- I tell you,
the devil is so smart.
46
00:02:17,077 --> 00:02:20,160
He's got everybody believing
he doesn't exist.
47
00:02:20,243 --> 00:02:22,952
And that's tricky.
48
00:02:23,035 --> 00:02:29,118
- So try not to get in
those conversations with her.
49
00:02:29,202 --> 00:02:31,911
- Yeah, yeah.
- Yeah, pretty good, good.
50
00:02:31,993 --> 00:02:33,661
- Ooh.
51
00:02:33,744 --> 00:02:36,160
- Oh, oh.
52
00:02:45,243 --> 00:02:46,285
- You got it.
53
00:02:58,077 --> 00:02:59,993
- Yeah, I'm grateful
for my mother
54
00:03:00,077 --> 00:03:03,827
having such a relaxed way
of raising me
55
00:03:03,911 --> 00:03:06,619
and letting me experience life.
56
00:03:06,702 --> 00:03:09,160
♪ ♪
57
00:03:09,243 --> 00:03:13,661
Yeah, she let me experience
everything on my own.
58
00:03:13,744 --> 00:03:16,661
From a very young age,
we were free.
59
00:03:16,744 --> 00:03:18,952
All I remember is fun.
60
00:03:19,035 --> 00:03:21,535
My childhood was fun
all the time.
61
00:03:21,619 --> 00:03:24,744
♪ ♪
62
00:03:24,827 --> 00:03:27,369
- If you ask him
about his childhood,
63
00:03:27,452 --> 00:03:29,744
he'll say it was great.
64
00:03:29,827 --> 00:03:32,993
And if you know anything
about his childhood,
65
00:03:33,077 --> 00:03:35,243
it's far from great.
66
00:03:35,327 --> 00:03:37,243
It's disturbing.
67
00:03:37,327 --> 00:03:39,369
♪ ♪
68
00:03:39,452 --> 00:03:43,202
[soft music]
69
00:03:43,285 --> 00:03:47,911
- Check out these monster
100-foot waves off Portugal.
70
00:03:47,993 --> 00:03:50,160
- The biggest wave
ever surfed,
71
00:03:50,243 --> 00:03:51,911
as high as 100 feet.
72
00:03:51,993 --> 00:03:53,327
- To put that in perspective,
73
00:03:53,410 --> 00:03:55,035
that is taller than
an eight-story building.
74
00:03:55,118 --> 00:03:59,035
- Surfers are always looking
for the next great thing.
75
00:03:59,118 --> 00:04:03,035
- It often breaks those brave
or crazy board riders.
76
00:04:03,118 --> 00:04:06,744
- Severe wipeouts on waves
of mind-boggling heights.
77
00:04:06,827 --> 00:04:09,577
- What happens here happens
nowhere else in the world.
78
00:04:09,661 --> 00:04:14,243
- Biggest wave ever surfed.
- The biggest wave ever--
79
00:04:14,327 --> 00:04:16,869
- The 100-foot wave.
80
00:04:16,952 --> 00:04:22,827
♪ ♪
81
00:04:27,494 --> 00:04:29,911
[slow dynamic music]
82
00:04:29,993 --> 00:04:32,952
- My childhood was
very unstable
83
00:04:33,035 --> 00:04:35,577
and very unconventional.
84
00:04:35,661 --> 00:04:41,619
I've learned to accept
my childhood.
85
00:04:41,702 --> 00:04:45,410
I got a really amazing ability
to forget
86
00:04:45,494 --> 00:04:49,786
and disregard information
that comes in my brain.
87
00:04:49,869 --> 00:04:52,327
You know, like a computer,
you got the main screen,
88
00:04:52,410 --> 00:04:54,077
you got all the hard drives.
89
00:04:54,160 --> 00:04:56,494
I got a lot of hard drives
back there full of stuff
90
00:04:56,577 --> 00:04:59,243
that I don't even ever access
and don't even remember
91
00:04:59,327 --> 00:05:00,661
or know.
92
00:05:00,744 --> 00:05:02,952
♪ ♪
93
00:05:03,035 --> 00:05:07,285
- Garrett was born
in Massachusetts.
94
00:05:07,369 --> 00:05:10,786
His father was
a Latin professor
95
00:05:10,869 --> 00:05:13,661
at a boarding school,
and his mother was,
96
00:05:13,744 --> 00:05:16,786
like, the house mother
for the boarding home.
97
00:05:16,869 --> 00:05:19,786
And they moved to California
98
00:05:19,869 --> 00:05:23,160
'cause his mother
had received an inheritance.
99
00:05:23,243 --> 00:05:26,285
So she took the money
and she bought this property
100
00:05:26,369 --> 00:05:29,160
up in northern California
and started a commune
101
00:05:29,243 --> 00:05:31,744
with a bunch of people.
102
00:05:31,827 --> 00:05:33,577
- Yeah,
we had a weird childhood.
103
00:05:34,911 --> 00:05:38,661
My mom was a little out there.
My dad was a little out there.
104
00:05:38,744 --> 00:05:40,786
[chuckles]
105
00:05:40,869 --> 00:05:43,327
- The commune in California
was a dream,
106
00:05:43,410 --> 00:05:45,661
bunch of people,
bunch of friends
107
00:05:45,744 --> 00:05:47,285
who grew our own food.
108
00:05:47,369 --> 00:05:50,035
We did everything together,
109
00:05:50,118 --> 00:05:53,202
lived off the land
sustainably.
110
00:05:53,285 --> 00:05:56,160
- And then Malia was ready
to just leave,
111
00:05:56,243 --> 00:05:58,160
so she told Lawrence, his dad,
112
00:05:58,243 --> 00:05:59,993
and he's like, "Well,
I don't want to go anywhere."
113
00:06:00,077 --> 00:06:01,327
So he said, "I'm staying."
114
00:06:01,410 --> 00:06:07,327
- She left Liam with my father
and took me with her.
115
00:06:07,410 --> 00:06:09,827
♪ ♪
116
00:06:09,952 --> 00:06:13,911
We drove a Volkswagon van
from San Francisco all the way
117
00:06:13,993 --> 00:06:17,160
to British Honduras.
118
00:06:17,243 --> 00:06:18,869
- My mom was a free spirit.
119
00:06:18,952 --> 00:06:20,327
That's where she wanted to live
120
00:06:20,410 --> 00:06:23,202
and wanted
to start a life there.
121
00:06:23,285 --> 00:06:24,702
- My mom met this guy.
122
00:06:24,786 --> 00:06:29,494
He was really a jealous,
insecure man.
123
00:06:29,577 --> 00:06:31,911
He was really violent.
124
00:06:31,993 --> 00:06:35,702
- So then Garrett
and his mom escaped,
125
00:06:35,786 --> 00:06:39,077
like, in this rowboat
with crocodiles and stuff.
126
00:06:39,160 --> 00:06:43,369
- Through the mangroves
and the jungle.
127
00:06:43,452 --> 00:06:46,410
- They go back to Berkeley,
get Liam,
128
00:06:46,494 --> 00:06:50,369
and then Malia decides
129
00:06:50,452 --> 00:06:53,243
to join the Christ Family.
130
00:06:53,327 --> 00:06:55,118
- They say they are
the followers
131
00:06:55,202 --> 00:06:57,202
of Jesus Christ
Lightning Amen,
132
00:06:57,285 --> 00:07:00,535
reportedly a former San Diego
building contractor,
133
00:07:00,619 --> 00:07:02,577
and while professing
nonviolence
134
00:07:02,661 --> 00:07:05,243
a fierce vegetarianism,
celibacy,
135
00:07:05,327 --> 00:07:07,243
anti-materialism, and love,
136
00:07:07,327 --> 00:07:10,160
to talk to them is
to invite scathing criticism.
137
00:07:10,243 --> 00:07:11,993
- You come with an open heart,
138
00:07:12,077 --> 00:07:13,410
you're gonna receive nothing
but love.
139
00:07:13,494 --> 00:07:14,535
You come with your arrogance,
140
00:07:14,619 --> 00:07:16,744
you gonna get the hell slapped
out of you.
141
00:07:16,827 --> 00:07:20,452
- They believe their messiah,
Jesus Christ Lightning Amen,
142
00:07:20,535 --> 00:07:22,744
has come to smash
all material things
143
00:07:22,827 --> 00:07:24,452
and all materialists.
144
00:07:24,535 --> 00:07:27,077
- My mother was looking
for God,
145
00:07:27,160 --> 00:07:29,869
and she brought us along
for the ride.
146
00:07:29,952 --> 00:07:32,952
She found the Christ Family
up there in Mount Shasta,
147
00:07:33,035 --> 00:07:34,285
and for some reason,
148
00:07:34,369 --> 00:07:37,118
she liked what they were
saying and had to offer.
149
00:07:37,202 --> 00:07:41,410
- We were traveling up
to watch the Martians fly out
150
00:07:41,494 --> 00:07:44,410
of the top of Mount Shasta.
151
00:07:44,494 --> 00:07:47,452
- We got there, and they
told us to burn everything.
152
00:07:47,535 --> 00:07:49,327
Then she burned whatever
we had,
153
00:07:49,410 --> 00:07:52,285
all of our clothes,
all of our lively possessions.
154
00:07:52,369 --> 00:07:54,160
It was called
the Christ Family,
155
00:07:54,243 --> 00:07:57,118
so we walked the Earth
the same way
156
00:07:57,202 --> 00:07:58,619
Jesus walked.
157
00:07:58,702 --> 00:07:59,952
- It was a pretty crazy journey
158
00:08:00,035 --> 00:08:03,452
as a five, six,
seven-year-old kid.
159
00:08:03,535 --> 00:08:06,619
- We were always trying
to find Christ Lightning Amen,
160
00:08:06,702 --> 00:08:09,410
who was this elusive
cult leader.
161
00:08:09,494 --> 00:08:12,952
We had no transportation,
so we walked barefoot.
162
00:08:13,035 --> 00:08:15,619
And we would walk,
and they would chant,
163
00:08:15,702 --> 00:08:18,494
"No sex, no killing,
no materialism."
164
00:08:18,577 --> 00:08:19,786
And the people would
always yell,
165
00:08:19,869 --> 00:08:22,035
"Well, where'd the kids
come from?"
166
00:08:22,118 --> 00:08:25,202
And my mom would always say,
"Well, that was before."
167
00:08:25,285 --> 00:08:28,827
The people would laugh,
or they would get disgusted.
168
00:08:28,911 --> 00:08:32,077
I mean, it was degrading,
definitely degrading.
169
00:08:33,952 --> 00:08:36,452
- They walked for six months
to a year.
170
00:08:36,535 --> 00:08:38,202
They had no shoes.
171
00:08:38,285 --> 00:08:41,494
They would sleep wherever
they could sleep.
172
00:08:41,577 --> 00:08:44,535
They ate out of trash cans.
173
00:08:44,619 --> 00:08:47,827
- That's how we survived.
174
00:08:47,911 --> 00:08:49,827
Yeah, that's
the childhood part
175
00:08:49,911 --> 00:08:53,619
that I think messes
with me a lot.
176
00:08:53,702 --> 00:08:56,535
♪ ♪
177
00:08:56,619 --> 00:09:00,285
You're never really secure.
178
00:09:03,952 --> 00:09:07,869
But long as I have Nicole,
I feel secure, yeah.
179
00:09:07,952 --> 00:09:10,494
[indistinct chatter]
180
00:09:10,577 --> 00:09:12,827
Hey, we'll put this set
on that ski.
181
00:09:12,911 --> 00:09:14,077
- Yeah?
- Yeah.
182
00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:16,160
- And that one?
- This ski.
183
00:09:23,285 --> 00:09:24,577
You have a nice new warehouse,
huh?
184
00:09:24,661 --> 00:09:28,118
- Yeah, perfect.
- Come on, fly over.
185
00:09:32,118 --> 00:09:34,369
- I know, me too, so we gotta
have some Skype dates,
186
00:09:34,452 --> 00:09:37,160
so you can keep me on there.
- [laughs]
187
00:09:37,243 --> 00:09:40,369
Our idea
for the third year project
188
00:09:40,452 --> 00:09:42,202
was Garrett and friends.
189
00:09:42,285 --> 00:09:47,118
Basically, we need to open
the door to everybody.
190
00:09:47,202 --> 00:09:49,577
- I kept sharing
with all my friends
191
00:09:49,661 --> 00:09:51,077
that we found
this amazing wave.
192
00:09:51,160 --> 00:09:53,077
"You gotta come visit.
You gotta come surf with us."
193
00:09:53,160 --> 00:09:55,494
Nobody came.
194
00:09:56,952 --> 00:09:59,869
Sebastian and Tom Butler were
the first two guys
195
00:09:59,952 --> 00:10:03,410
to bring their own ski
and figure everything out.
196
00:10:03,494 --> 00:10:04,911
- I was over in Ireland
197
00:10:04,993 --> 00:10:06,911
towing in
with Sebastian Steudtner.
198
00:10:06,993 --> 00:10:09,869
We were promised swell
in Ireland.
199
00:10:09,952 --> 00:10:12,744
Didn't really live up
to what the forecast had said,
200
00:10:12,827 --> 00:10:15,911
and we'd seen images of Garrett
and Cotty,
201
00:10:15,993 --> 00:10:17,744
like, in nice sunshine
202
00:10:17,827 --> 00:10:19,993
and huge Nazaré
and no one out.
203
00:10:20,077 --> 00:10:22,243
And we just packed the van
and drove down there,
204
00:10:22,327 --> 00:10:23,285
check it out.
205
00:10:23,369 --> 00:10:25,077
- First time
in Praia do Norte?
206
00:10:25,160 --> 00:10:28,118
- First time here.
- What are you expecting for?
207
00:10:28,202 --> 00:10:30,452
- Well, we went
and had a drive yesterday,
208
00:10:30,535 --> 00:10:33,327
me and Sebastian,
and the beach is crazy.
209
00:10:33,410 --> 00:10:35,243
There's waves coming
from everywhere,
210
00:10:35,327 --> 00:10:38,202
and it's like nothing
I've ever experienced before.
211
00:10:38,285 --> 00:10:41,077
I grew up in a town
called Newquay.
212
00:10:41,160 --> 00:10:44,535
It is the surf mecca
of the UK.
213
00:10:47,619 --> 00:10:51,494
2010 was when I got
into big wave surfing.
214
00:10:51,577 --> 00:10:53,285
I knew Cotty a little bit.
215
00:10:53,369 --> 00:10:56,744
We would always turn up
at the same swells together.
216
00:10:56,827 --> 00:10:58,827
- Hung out in Ireland
when he started
217
00:10:58,911 --> 00:11:00,494
sort of getting into big waves.
218
00:11:00,577 --> 00:11:03,786
He's been British champion
and a big name
219
00:11:03,869 --> 00:11:07,243
in the competition
sort of surfing scene.
220
00:11:09,744 --> 00:11:11,202
- I've been running
this morning,
221
00:11:11,285 --> 00:11:14,035
and I feel kind of ready,
as ready as I can be I think.
222
00:11:14,118 --> 00:11:16,160
I'm gonna focus on the laughs.
- On the laughs.
223
00:11:16,243 --> 00:11:18,327
- I'm a goofy foot, so--
- Okay.
224
00:11:18,410 --> 00:11:20,952
- Ride away from that cliff.
- Yeah, please.
225
00:11:21,035 --> 00:11:22,827
- [laughs]
226
00:11:22,911 --> 00:11:25,661
When we arrived,
it was Garrett, Cotty,
227
00:11:25,744 --> 00:11:29,702
and that crew,
and that was it.
228
00:11:29,786 --> 00:11:33,452
Them early days, there was
hardly anyone around.
229
00:11:33,535 --> 00:11:35,952
The lighthouse wasn't open
to the public
230
00:11:36,035 --> 00:11:37,702
the first year I got there.
231
00:11:37,786 --> 00:11:41,327
For a long time,
it was just left uninhabited,
232
00:11:41,410 --> 00:11:43,202
nothing going on with it.
233
00:11:43,285 --> 00:11:45,243
- The lighthouse belonged
to the navy.
234
00:11:45,327 --> 00:11:48,535
Nobody went there.
It was always closed.
235
00:11:48,619 --> 00:11:53,869
It was, like, all a little bit
destroyed and stuff.
236
00:11:53,952 --> 00:11:56,577
- When we arrived in 2010,
we're like, "Okay, well,
237
00:11:56,661 --> 00:11:59,077
"we've got to be able to get
into this lighthouse,
238
00:11:59,160 --> 00:12:02,494
so we can shoot from the roof,
and we can do safety."
239
00:12:02,577 --> 00:12:06,494
- It was tough,
but we got the keys.
240
00:12:06,577 --> 00:12:09,160
When we opened that door
and went in there,
241
00:12:09,243 --> 00:12:13,744
it was 8 feet high
piled with fishnets,
242
00:12:13,827 --> 00:12:17,535
the whole entire lighthouse.
243
00:12:17,619 --> 00:12:21,410
We went up to the top,
and then we looked around
244
00:12:21,494 --> 00:12:25,410
and went,
"This place is magnificent."
245
00:12:25,494 --> 00:12:29,243
- You can feel the energy
from hundreds of years
246
00:12:29,327 --> 00:12:30,535
of the waves beating.
247
00:12:30,619 --> 00:12:32,744
I mean,
it's just pure magic there.
248
00:12:32,827 --> 00:12:35,243
And we're like,
we've got to get this open,
249
00:12:35,327 --> 00:12:37,077
but our city hall friends,
they're like,
250
00:12:37,160 --> 00:12:39,744
"No, no, it's not possible,
not possible."
251
00:12:39,827 --> 00:12:41,577
And Garrett's like,
"Anything's possible.
252
00:12:41,661 --> 00:12:43,702
You just gotta talk
to the right person."
253
00:12:43,786 --> 00:12:46,410
- So we went straight
to the navy,
254
00:12:46,494 --> 00:12:50,702
and they've worked with us
to open the lighthouse.
255
00:12:50,786 --> 00:12:53,535
When we opened it
to the public,
256
00:12:53,619 --> 00:12:55,993
we took all the kids
from the school
257
00:12:56,077 --> 00:12:58,077
and just shared the beauty.
258
00:12:58,160 --> 00:12:59,452
Welcome.
259
00:12:59,535 --> 00:13:02,369
It was a really special moment
260
00:13:02,452 --> 00:13:05,285
because these children
never imagined being able
261
00:13:05,369 --> 00:13:06,410
to go into the lighthouse.
262
00:13:06,494 --> 00:13:08,993
Maybe you can tell them
the history right here.
263
00:13:09,077 --> 00:13:12,202
- [speaking Portuguese]
264
00:13:21,702 --> 00:13:25,118
- It felt good to give back
to the people of Nazaré
265
00:13:25,202 --> 00:13:28,243
'cause they've been really good
to me.
266
00:13:28,327 --> 00:13:30,327
Okay, bye-bye, ciao.
267
00:13:30,410 --> 00:13:32,786
The best experiences
of my life
268
00:13:32,869 --> 00:13:35,202
have happened in Nazaré.
269
00:13:40,869 --> 00:13:43,077
- And now let's say
the big wave is coming.
270
00:13:43,160 --> 00:13:45,952
- That year,
we invited Martin Stepánek.
271
00:13:46,035 --> 00:13:49,619
He's a world record
free diver.
272
00:13:49,702 --> 00:13:52,369
He did this whole survival
course with everybody.
273
00:13:52,452 --> 00:13:56,661
- And take a big inhalation,
274
00:13:56,744 --> 00:13:59,827
and start your dive.
275
00:13:59,911 --> 00:14:01,452
- With our last pool session,
276
00:14:01,535 --> 00:14:03,327
we were gonna do
our longest static breath hold
277
00:14:03,410 --> 00:14:04,369
in the pool.
278
00:14:04,452 --> 00:14:08,327
- Make sure every single muscle
is relaxed.
279
00:14:08,410 --> 00:14:11,702
- I held my breath
for 3 minutes and 15 seconds.
280
00:14:11,786 --> 00:14:14,702
- And breathe.
281
00:14:23,702 --> 00:14:26,202
In front of all
these good friends of ours
282
00:14:26,285 --> 00:14:30,035
and great family,
will you marry me?
283
00:14:30,118 --> 00:14:33,243
[upbeat music]
284
00:14:36,911 --> 00:14:39,035
That afternoon
we had a photoshoot
285
00:14:39,118 --> 00:14:40,869
with Mercedes on the beach.
286
00:14:40,952 --> 00:14:42,243
Later that night,
287
00:14:42,327 --> 00:14:43,577
I looked down,
and the ring's gone.
288
00:14:43,661 --> 00:14:45,993
I mean, he literally gave it
to me five hours ago.
289
00:14:46,077 --> 00:14:48,035
I'm like, "Oh, fuck."
290
00:14:48,118 --> 00:14:50,035
I have the pictures
from the photoshoot,
291
00:14:50,118 --> 00:14:51,702
so I'm looking at, like,
every picture,
292
00:14:51,786 --> 00:14:53,577
and I can see like,
have the ring, have the ring,
293
00:14:53,661 --> 00:14:54,952
have the ring,
don't have the ring.
294
00:14:55,035 --> 00:14:57,285
So my dad and I go down there
with our phone flashlights.
295
00:14:57,369 --> 00:14:59,494
We couldn't find it,
so then I tell Garrett.
296
00:14:59,577 --> 00:15:01,202
He's like,
"Don't even look for it
297
00:15:01,285 --> 00:15:05,410
"because Mama Nazaré's jealous,
and that ring belongs to her.
298
00:15:05,494 --> 00:15:07,369
If you find it,
I'm throwing back there."
299
00:15:07,452 --> 00:15:09,369
The whole village was
on the beach
300
00:15:09,452 --> 00:15:10,452
looking for this ring.
301
00:15:10,535 --> 00:15:12,202
They had, like,
metal detectors, everything.
302
00:15:12,285 --> 00:15:13,952
We never found the ring,
but the whole time,
303
00:15:14,035 --> 00:15:15,911
Garrett's just sitting there
like, "If you find it,
304
00:15:15,993 --> 00:15:17,702
I'm literally
throwing it back."
305
00:15:17,786 --> 00:15:21,118
- Just let me know
when you find it, okay?
306
00:15:21,202 --> 00:15:23,077
♪ ♪
307
00:15:23,160 --> 00:15:27,577
- I grew up, like,
in a very serious environment.
308
00:15:27,661 --> 00:15:29,535
I am super responsible.
309
00:15:29,619 --> 00:15:31,619
The most irresponsible thing
I've ever done
310
00:15:31,702 --> 00:15:35,327
in my entire life is be
with Garrett.
311
00:15:37,285 --> 00:15:41,243
We met in Puerto Rico
at a charity event.
312
00:15:41,327 --> 00:15:43,535
An hour after talking,
he's like,
313
00:15:43,619 --> 00:15:45,077
"I have to tell you
something.
314
00:15:45,160 --> 00:15:46,452
I'm married."
315
00:15:46,535 --> 00:15:49,952
And I said, "Well, so am I."
316
00:15:50,035 --> 00:15:53,410
I had just gotten married
13 days ago,
317
00:15:53,494 --> 00:15:57,911
which isn't cool, but I mean,
318
00:15:57,993 --> 00:16:01,786
it was just--there was nothing
we could do about it.
319
00:16:01,869 --> 00:16:07,077
It was like no one existed
to us but each other.
320
00:16:07,160 --> 00:16:11,369
We really both truly left
our lives.
321
00:16:12,535 --> 00:16:14,952
For the first three years,
322
00:16:15,035 --> 00:16:17,952
we just had our bag
of clothes,
323
00:16:18,035 --> 00:16:21,118
and we just traveled
around the world.
324
00:16:21,202 --> 00:16:23,619
There was just, like,
this energy of Garrett
325
00:16:23,702 --> 00:16:24,827
of anything's possible.
326
00:16:24,911 --> 00:16:28,118
There's no parameters to life.
327
00:16:28,202 --> 00:16:29,993
It was just this beautiful,
328
00:16:30,077 --> 00:16:31,952
just freedom, really.
329
00:16:32,035 --> 00:16:34,993
[soft music]
330
00:16:35,077 --> 00:16:37,744
♪ ♪
331
00:16:42,786 --> 00:16:44,952
- No way.
[laughs]
332
00:16:45,035 --> 00:16:47,118
- At the lighthouse.
333
00:16:47,202 --> 00:16:49,160
- It's a busy day for you,
Garrett.
334
00:16:49,243 --> 00:16:52,786
His idea was to surf a wave,
and, like, surf into the beach
335
00:16:52,869 --> 00:16:56,035
and then sort of James Bond
style pull off his wetsuit,
336
00:16:56,118 --> 00:16:59,494
and be ready in his suit
ready for the wedding.
337
00:16:59,577 --> 00:17:00,702
[laughs]
338
00:17:00,786 --> 00:17:02,327
♪ ♪
339
00:17:02,410 --> 00:17:07,243
- Surfed all day, 20-foot,
glassy.
340
00:17:07,327 --> 00:17:09,577
- We had an invite
to the ceremony,
341
00:17:09,661 --> 00:17:11,035
but the waves were pumping,
342
00:17:11,118 --> 00:17:12,952
so we kind of carried on
surfing.
343
00:17:13,035 --> 00:17:14,869
[laughs]
344
00:17:14,952 --> 00:17:17,369
- Came in, got ready,
and went to the lighthouse,
345
00:17:17,452 --> 00:17:20,202
set everything up perfect,
and then Nicole came down
346
00:17:20,285 --> 00:17:22,869
in this cool little car,
347
00:17:22,952 --> 00:17:26,869
and her dad was there
to walk her in.
348
00:17:26,952 --> 00:17:31,993
- They asked me
to conduct the ceremony.
349
00:17:32,077 --> 00:17:34,369
It was an amazing moment.
350
00:17:34,452 --> 00:17:40,577
♪ ♪
351
00:17:40,661 --> 00:17:42,911
- The team was all there.
352
00:17:42,993 --> 00:17:45,369
- We were all sharing
the same experience, you know?
353
00:17:45,452 --> 00:17:48,035
Like, it was kind of magical.
354
00:17:48,118 --> 00:17:53,202
- The energy of that team was--
we were a family for sure.
355
00:17:53,285 --> 00:18:00,285
♪ ♪
356
00:18:06,827 --> 00:18:09,410
[honking and yelling]
357
00:18:09,494 --> 00:18:12,285
- [shouting in Portuguese]
358
00:18:16,494 --> 00:18:19,452
[upbeat music]
359
00:18:19,535 --> 00:18:21,577
- Think it's gonna work
'cause she's crazy.
360
00:18:21,661 --> 00:18:24,077
- [laughs]
361
00:18:24,160 --> 00:18:26,619
- I know it's gonna work.
362
00:18:30,327 --> 00:18:32,035
- Since Nicole came
on the scene,
363
00:18:32,118 --> 00:18:34,118
my brother changed a lot.
364
00:18:34,202 --> 00:18:36,452
He's more connected.
365
00:18:37,869 --> 00:18:42,118
That's how he is now.
That's the new Garrett.
366
00:18:42,202 --> 00:18:44,243
Me and Garrett both
love each other a lot,
367
00:18:44,327 --> 00:18:49,160
and we're very happy
for each other's successes.
368
00:18:49,243 --> 00:18:53,869
But we weren't
the most supportive brothers.
369
00:18:55,202 --> 00:18:58,077
1976, we left Christ Family,
370
00:18:58,160 --> 00:19:00,077
and my mom said,
"We're moving to Hawaii."
371
00:19:01,369 --> 00:19:03,661
Our mom brought us here
to the north shore of Oahu,
372
00:19:03,744 --> 00:19:07,118
and we were
in a one-bedroom apartment.
373
00:19:07,202 --> 00:19:11,952
We had carpet luckily,
so that's what we slept on.
374
00:19:12,035 --> 00:19:14,410
We met a kid
in the neighborhood.
375
00:19:14,494 --> 00:19:18,118
It was his birthday,
and he asked his mom
376
00:19:18,202 --> 00:19:20,619
to go surfing
for his birthday.
377
00:19:20,702 --> 00:19:23,160
- It was Butchy boy,
Butchy Wong,
378
00:19:23,243 --> 00:19:26,619
and it was right down the road.
379
00:19:26,702 --> 00:19:29,993
Butchy's dad let us
take his kneeboards out,
380
00:19:30,077 --> 00:19:32,494
and the first few waves
we got,
381
00:19:32,577 --> 00:19:34,035
we weren't gonna do it
on our knees.
382
00:19:34,118 --> 00:19:36,160
We stood right up.
383
00:19:36,243 --> 00:19:38,535
It was love.
384
00:19:38,619 --> 00:19:40,202
- Our first board was
a longboard,
385
00:19:40,285 --> 00:19:41,869
and we cut the middle
out of it
386
00:19:41,952 --> 00:19:43,202
and fiberglass-ed it
back together,
387
00:19:43,285 --> 00:19:45,452
so we could have a small board.
388
00:19:45,535 --> 00:19:48,494
We were definitely close
when we were young.
389
00:19:48,577 --> 00:19:52,619
In elementary school, we used
to get picked on a lot,
390
00:19:52,702 --> 00:19:55,993
and Garrett actually had
to come, and back me up,
391
00:19:56,077 --> 00:19:57,993
and fight a few times.
392
00:19:58,077 --> 00:20:01,118
But once Garrett went off
to high school,
393
00:20:01,202 --> 00:20:03,535
he started having new friends.
394
00:20:03,619 --> 00:20:06,911
- We were really mean to Liam
when he was young.
395
00:20:06,993 --> 00:20:09,869
- He would ditch me
and go hang out,
396
00:20:09,952 --> 00:20:13,077
and I'd be jealous or pissed
because they didn't invite me
397
00:20:13,160 --> 00:20:15,535
'cause I was
the younger brother.
398
00:20:15,619 --> 00:20:18,285
- We got him so mad
that he would just rage
399
00:20:18,369 --> 00:20:22,535
to catch us, and we'd run,
so he wouldn't catch us and...
400
00:20:22,619 --> 00:20:25,202
[soft music]
401
00:20:25,285 --> 00:20:26,827
- I made
some different friends
402
00:20:26,911 --> 00:20:29,702
and would basically live
at friends' houses.
403
00:20:29,786 --> 00:20:31,869
One time, I was 15,
we were partying
404
00:20:31,952 --> 00:20:33,118
and got arrested,
405
00:20:33,202 --> 00:20:35,702
and I got put
in juvenile home.
406
00:20:35,786 --> 00:20:37,577
They called my house.
407
00:20:37,661 --> 00:20:38,911
Garrett answered the phone,
408
00:20:38,993 --> 00:20:40,535
and he was partying
at our house,
409
00:20:40,619 --> 00:20:43,369
and he just kind of laughed
and hung up the phone
410
00:20:43,452 --> 00:20:46,118
when I was in jail as a kid.
411
00:20:46,202 --> 00:20:49,243
He didn't do nothing
to help me.
412
00:20:49,327 --> 00:20:53,077
In 1988, I was a finalist
in surfing competition
413
00:20:53,160 --> 00:20:56,202
at Sunset Beach,
and I turned pro.
414
00:20:56,285 --> 00:20:57,952
- Back then,
if you accept any money,
415
00:20:58,035 --> 00:20:59,661
you're automatically
a professional surfer.
416
00:20:59,744 --> 00:21:03,077
I won $250 at Sunset,
$250 at Pipe,
417
00:21:03,160 --> 00:21:05,869
gladly accepted it,
and oh, my God,
418
00:21:05,952 --> 00:21:07,369
I'm a pro surfer.
419
00:21:07,452 --> 00:21:10,744
- We were very competitive
with each other.
420
00:21:10,827 --> 00:21:11,993
We'd be out in the water,
421
00:21:12,077 --> 00:21:15,118
and me and Garrett would kind
of butt heads for waves.
422
00:21:15,202 --> 00:21:16,952
- I wouldn't go out
when he was out.
423
00:21:17,035 --> 00:21:18,577
Just 'cause he took every wave,
424
00:21:18,661 --> 00:21:20,577
and I didn't see any point
in being out there
425
00:21:20,661 --> 00:21:22,535
when the wave was gonna
come to me,
426
00:21:22,619 --> 00:21:24,577
and he was gonna take it.
427
00:21:24,661 --> 00:21:27,160
- For those first five,
ten years,
428
00:21:27,243 --> 00:21:28,952
I made a name for myself,
429
00:21:29,035 --> 00:21:31,786
and he was kind of
in the shadows
430
00:21:31,869 --> 00:21:33,160
for some years there.
431
00:21:33,243 --> 00:21:36,619
♪ ♪
432
00:21:36,702 --> 00:21:39,661
- I've known Garrett McNamara
since probably the '80s.
433
00:21:39,744 --> 00:21:42,327
I was the editor of "Surfing"
magazine back then.
434
00:21:42,410 --> 00:21:44,786
Really, it was his brother
435
00:21:44,869 --> 00:21:48,786
who was the loudmouth,
obnoxious, really good surfer.
436
00:21:48,869 --> 00:21:52,619
- Liam was so focused
and so hungry.
437
00:21:52,702 --> 00:21:55,827
He would not back down
to anybody.
438
00:21:55,911 --> 00:21:58,494
The gnarliest, heaviest guy
on the island could be
439
00:21:58,577 --> 00:22:00,452
sitting here, and Liam would
paddle around him
440
00:22:00,535 --> 00:22:01,786
and take his wave.
441
00:22:01,869 --> 00:22:04,619
- Yeah, he wasn't
my favorite guy in the lineup.
442
00:22:04,702 --> 00:22:06,827
[laughs]
443
00:22:06,911 --> 00:22:08,786
Yeah, you get guys
that are aggressive,
444
00:22:08,869 --> 00:22:10,202
and they keep paddle--you're
sitting there.
445
00:22:10,285 --> 00:22:12,202
You're waiting, you're waiting.
They get a great wave.
446
00:22:12,285 --> 00:22:14,452
You think, I'm next, and then
he paddles right behind you,
447
00:22:14,535 --> 00:22:17,619
and starts yelling,
"I got it, I got it, I got it!"
448
00:22:17,702 --> 00:22:19,869
- People kind of looked at me
as the Dennis Rodman
449
00:22:19,952 --> 00:22:23,077
or John McEnroe of the sport
of surfing.
450
00:22:23,160 --> 00:22:25,619
- He was always coming and yell
at the judges,
451
00:22:25,702 --> 00:22:28,661
trying to break
the judge's stand.
452
00:22:28,744 --> 00:22:31,118
- My reputation got
pretty bad.
453
00:22:31,202 --> 00:22:33,202
- Liam was very full
of himself
454
00:22:33,285 --> 00:22:37,118
and, from what I understand,
not a lot of fun to surf with,
455
00:22:37,202 --> 00:22:39,410
but he became very well known.
456
00:22:39,494 --> 00:22:44,327
- I did have photos of Liam
on my wall when I was a kid,
457
00:22:44,410 --> 00:22:48,452
Gath helmet, visor down,
either getting tubed at Pipe
458
00:22:48,535 --> 00:22:50,494
or doing, like,
weird straight airs.
459
00:22:50,577 --> 00:22:51,702
[laughs]
460
00:22:51,786 --> 00:22:53,702
You know,
with the full visor down.
461
00:22:53,786 --> 00:22:56,160
- Yeah, that was part
of his costume.
462
00:22:56,243 --> 00:22:58,494
He suited up and would go
into battle.
463
00:22:58,577 --> 00:23:00,369
I was amazed that he could
wear that shield
464
00:23:00,452 --> 00:23:03,202
with the tin in it, still pull
in the tube and come out,
465
00:23:03,285 --> 00:23:05,202
but he did it quite well.
466
00:23:05,285 --> 00:23:07,993
- He was one of the most
photographed surfers
467
00:23:08,077 --> 00:23:10,243
in the world
for about ten years.
468
00:23:10,327 --> 00:23:12,035
♪ ♪
469
00:23:12,118 --> 00:23:15,243
[playful music]
470
00:23:15,327 --> 00:23:17,285
♪ ♪
471
00:23:17,369 --> 00:23:20,869
- So Liam was
the known McNamara brother.
472
00:23:20,952 --> 00:23:24,952
- I won the Pipe Master Trials
three years in a row.
473
00:23:25,035 --> 00:23:26,744
- Yeah, it was...
474
00:23:26,827 --> 00:23:29,369
challenging to see him
do so well,
475
00:23:29,452 --> 00:23:32,661
and I just got the scraps.
476
00:23:32,744 --> 00:23:35,243
- Garrett wasn't that great
of a competitor.
477
00:23:35,327 --> 00:23:37,911
I don't think he enjoyed it
as much as I did.
478
00:23:37,993 --> 00:23:40,202
- Nobody really knew of me,
and if they did,
479
00:23:40,285 --> 00:23:42,243
it was,
"Oh, that's Liam's brother."
480
00:23:42,327 --> 00:23:44,077
- Yeah, I think
he had a little jealousy
481
00:23:44,160 --> 00:23:46,410
and a little animosity.
482
00:23:46,494 --> 00:23:48,744
- Slowly, Garrett just started
charging more,
483
00:23:48,827 --> 00:23:50,952
and a little bit more,
and a little bit more.
484
00:23:51,035 --> 00:23:53,410
Then we were like,
"Oh, my God, this guy's crazy."
485
00:23:53,494 --> 00:23:56,619
He just quietly
surpassed Liam.
486
00:23:56,702 --> 00:23:58,619
- You're out there surfing
with your brother.
487
00:23:58,702 --> 00:23:59,744
You see him get barreled.
488
00:23:59,827 --> 00:24:01,160
You want
to get a better barrel.
489
00:24:01,243 --> 00:24:02,369
You see him do an off the lip.
490
00:24:02,452 --> 00:24:03,911
You want to do
a heavier off the lip.
491
00:24:03,993 --> 00:24:05,327
You see him catch a big wave.
492
00:24:05,410 --> 00:24:07,243
You want to catch
an even bigger one.
493
00:24:07,327 --> 00:24:09,243
It just so happens now
my brother's finally caught
494
00:24:09,327 --> 00:24:10,619
bigger ones than I catch.
495
00:24:10,702 --> 00:24:13,285
- My brother Liam pretty much
focuses his career
496
00:24:13,369 --> 00:24:14,535
on Pipeline and Rockies.
497
00:24:14,619 --> 00:24:17,118
Myself, I've tried to get away
from everybody,
498
00:24:17,202 --> 00:24:18,993
and hide out
on the outer reefs,
499
00:24:19,077 --> 00:24:22,327
and just enjoy giant waves.
500
00:24:22,410 --> 00:24:23,619
- A couple of the waves
501
00:24:23,702 --> 00:24:25,786
he caught were
life-changing moments,
502
00:24:25,869 --> 00:24:29,285
and he had a few of them all
within a span of 24 months.
503
00:24:29,369 --> 00:24:31,118
- Garrett was able
to get the cover
504
00:24:31,202 --> 00:24:33,869
of "Surfing" magazine twice
in a year
505
00:24:33,952 --> 00:24:36,118
and became a worldwide name,
506
00:24:36,202 --> 00:24:39,077
so I brought the name up here,
507
00:24:39,160 --> 00:24:41,661
and then as I started
to come down,
508
00:24:41,744 --> 00:24:44,077
Garrett brought the name
up here.
509
00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:48,202
♪ ♪
510
00:24:48,285 --> 00:24:50,911
At one point,
I was blackballed
511
00:24:50,993 --> 00:24:53,285
by a bunch
of the surfing industry.
512
00:24:53,369 --> 00:24:54,452
They wouldn't shoot photos
with me.
513
00:24:54,535 --> 00:24:56,160
They wouldn't put me
in the magazines.
514
00:24:56,243 --> 00:24:58,702
I was causing havoc,
515
00:24:58,786 --> 00:25:03,243
but that's the only thing
I knew to do,
516
00:25:03,327 --> 00:25:04,952
and there was
a few years there
517
00:25:05,035 --> 00:25:09,202
where Garrett kind of didn't
want to be my brother.
518
00:25:09,285 --> 00:25:12,827
He didn't want
to damage his reputation.
519
00:25:12,911 --> 00:25:15,285
- Did that bother you
at the time?
520
00:25:15,369 --> 00:25:18,202
- Um...
521
00:25:18,285 --> 00:25:21,702
yeah, I mean, when your brother
doesn't back you up...
522
00:25:23,911 --> 00:25:26,661
I was in the Pipe Masters
one year,
523
00:25:26,744 --> 00:25:29,494
and I broke my leash,
lost my board,
524
00:25:29,577 --> 00:25:32,160
and ultimately lost the event.
525
00:25:32,243 --> 00:25:35,494
Then I remember specifically
telling my wife, like,
526
00:25:35,577 --> 00:25:36,827
"My brother wasn't there
for me.
527
00:25:36,952 --> 00:25:38,993
I wish my brother was there."
528
00:25:39,077 --> 00:25:44,661
We would go a year and maybe
talk two or three times.
529
00:25:44,744 --> 00:25:48,077
It was pretty tough
to be around him sometimes.
530
00:25:48,160 --> 00:25:50,077
- They love each other.
They're brothers.
531
00:25:50,160 --> 00:25:52,035
But we don't hang out.
532
00:25:52,118 --> 00:25:53,661
We don't have Christmas
together.
533
00:25:53,744 --> 00:25:57,035
We don't...
534
00:25:57,118 --> 00:25:58,577
we're not close.
535
00:25:58,661 --> 00:26:01,577
- From 40 to 45,
I kind of struggled
536
00:26:01,661 --> 00:26:05,410
to stay in shape,
to stay in the game.
537
00:26:05,494 --> 00:26:07,577
Maybe about five years ago,
I went out,
538
00:26:07,661 --> 00:26:09,410
and my mind thought
I could do it,
539
00:26:09,494 --> 00:26:11,243
but my body wouldn't allow me
to do it,
540
00:26:11,327 --> 00:26:12,535
and I almost died,
541
00:26:12,619 --> 00:26:15,035
so that's kind of
when I gave up.
542
00:26:15,118 --> 00:26:17,369
And I decided
to put my family first
543
00:26:17,452 --> 00:26:21,619
and realized that I needed
to retire.
544
00:26:21,702 --> 00:26:23,243
I don't have any regrets.
545
00:26:23,327 --> 00:26:26,993
In the end, I was able
to make a living as a surfer.
546
00:26:27,077 --> 00:26:29,243
When you look at the numbers
of people
547
00:26:29,327 --> 00:26:31,744
who are successful
in surfing careers,
548
00:26:31,827 --> 00:26:34,661
it's very, very rare.
549
00:26:50,702 --> 00:26:52,993
- Losing my main sponsor
was tough, you know, like--
550
00:26:53,077 --> 00:26:55,077
I mean, I had, like,
a seven-year relationship.
551
00:26:55,160 --> 00:26:58,494
It felt like I was
in a--you know,
552
00:26:58,577 --> 00:26:59,869
thought it was like
a lifetime, you know?
553
00:26:59,952 --> 00:27:03,369
It's like being dumped
by a hot girlfriend.
554
00:27:06,202 --> 00:27:09,993
- The way you survive
off surfing is
555
00:27:10,077 --> 00:27:12,786
getting sponsors
to pay you a salary,
556
00:27:12,869 --> 00:27:14,619
hopefully
a three-year contract,
557
00:27:14,702 --> 00:27:19,494
usually one-year but
potentially ten-year contracts.
558
00:27:19,577 --> 00:27:22,452
And then every year
you gotta produce something.
559
00:27:22,535 --> 00:27:23,993
- Mommy.
560
00:27:24,077 --> 00:27:25,452
- An expensive dream.
561
00:27:25,535 --> 00:27:27,410
Everything, like
the jet skis are expensive.
562
00:27:27,494 --> 00:27:30,494
The flights last minute
to anywhere are expensive.
563
00:27:30,577 --> 00:27:32,285
If you don't have anyone,
564
00:27:32,369 --> 00:27:34,118
you know, sponsor you
or support you,
565
00:27:34,202 --> 00:27:36,160
then who's gonna pay for it?
566
00:27:36,243 --> 00:27:38,410
You know,
I've got a family and a wife,
567
00:27:38,494 --> 00:27:40,160
and it's like, what do you do,
you know?
568
00:27:40,243 --> 00:27:44,035
[cymbal crashes]
569
00:27:44,118 --> 00:27:47,535
[taps drum]
570
00:27:47,619 --> 00:27:50,661
There's loads of action
in the Atlantic.
571
00:27:50,744 --> 00:27:52,202
All of it's red.
572
00:27:52,285 --> 00:27:55,494
It means there's a lot of swell
out there.
573
00:27:55,577 --> 00:27:58,160
It's almost like you got
to be there, right?
574
00:27:58,243 --> 00:28:00,535
It's frustrating.
575
00:28:00,619 --> 00:28:02,160
It'd be nice to, you know,
money's not an object,
576
00:28:02,243 --> 00:28:03,952
and you can do whatever
you want whenever you want,
577
00:28:04,035 --> 00:28:06,661
but you can't afford to be
on every swell,
578
00:28:06,744 --> 00:28:09,911
so you just need to be
on the right swells.
579
00:28:17,035 --> 00:28:18,160
- There's a long interval,
580
00:28:18,243 --> 00:28:19,911
so we can get out--see
how you gotta run?
581
00:28:19,993 --> 00:28:23,160
Brap, brap, brap!
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.
582
00:28:23,243 --> 00:28:27,035
- January 2013,
a big swell popped up.
583
00:28:27,118 --> 00:28:28,577
Cotty couldn't be there,
584
00:28:28,661 --> 00:28:31,410
so we decided
to bring Keali'i Mamala,
585
00:28:31,494 --> 00:28:36,035
who was Garrett's tow partner
when I met him.
586
00:28:36,118 --> 00:28:37,535
- See how it backs off,
backs off.
587
00:28:37,619 --> 00:28:39,535
It's so weird.
- Weird, I know.
588
00:28:39,619 --> 00:28:41,535
I've never seen anything
like this.
589
00:28:41,619 --> 00:28:44,494
- Look at this--
whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!
590
00:28:44,577 --> 00:28:46,619
- Oh! What!
591
00:28:47,661 --> 00:28:49,285
[giddy laughter]
592
00:28:49,369 --> 00:28:51,243
- I wasn't entering the WSL,
593
00:28:51,327 --> 00:28:52,869
so I didn't have to get
594
00:28:52,952 --> 00:28:54,077
the biggest wave
or the best wave.
595
00:28:54,160 --> 00:28:55,827
I was just going back
to have fun.
596
00:29:00,952 --> 00:29:04,202
[indistinct chatter]
597
00:29:04,285 --> 00:29:07,577
[soft ambient music]
598
00:29:07,661 --> 00:29:09,035
- Let's find out
the [indistinct] count.
599
00:29:09,118 --> 00:29:10,577
If it's already peak,
600
00:29:10,661 --> 00:29:12,202
then we gotta get
whatever's there.
601
00:29:12,285 --> 00:29:13,410
If it's still coming,
602
00:29:13,494 --> 00:29:16,410
from 9:00 till 12:00 can we
maybe break.
603
00:29:16,494 --> 00:29:18,452
- Yeah, the high tide's gonna
be better.
604
00:29:18,535 --> 00:29:20,118
- Yes.
- Even to paddle.
605
00:29:20,202 --> 00:29:21,285
- Yes.
606
00:29:21,369 --> 00:29:23,952
[phone ringing]
607
00:29:24,035 --> 00:29:26,952
[string music]
608
00:29:27,035 --> 00:29:34,035
♪ ♪
609
00:29:42,327 --> 00:29:45,452
We hired a really good
still photographer,
610
00:29:45,535 --> 00:29:48,285
and he was working
under Jorge Leal,
611
00:29:48,369 --> 00:29:51,786
so Jorge Leal put him up
on the school
612
00:29:51,869 --> 00:29:53,577
where you can get
the good picture,
613
00:29:53,661 --> 00:29:56,118
and he set up his video camera
next to him.
614
00:29:56,202 --> 00:29:59,619
- We knew at the time
all the best places.
615
00:29:59,702 --> 00:30:03,243
None came close to that one,
not even close.
616
00:30:03,327 --> 00:30:10,243
♪ ♪
617
00:30:10,327 --> 00:30:12,494
[over radio]
618
00:30:41,577 --> 00:30:44,535
[indistinct radio chatter]
619
00:30:44,619 --> 00:30:51,619
♪ ♪
620
00:31:02,786 --> 00:31:08,160
I was so proud of that angle
and that wave of Garrett.
621
00:31:08,243 --> 00:31:11,243
- Photo was
the most beautiful photo ever.
622
00:31:11,327 --> 00:31:14,494
Surfer-wise, it was not worth
even talking about.
623
00:31:14,577 --> 00:31:16,535
The wave didn't really break.
624
00:31:16,619 --> 00:31:19,702
- Garrett, being
traditional surfer, like,
625
00:31:19,786 --> 00:31:20,869
"That wave did not break.
626
00:31:20,952 --> 00:31:22,827
"Don't you guys dare
put anything out there.
627
00:31:22,911 --> 00:31:24,535
It's not a real wave."
628
00:31:24,619 --> 00:31:27,535
Like, he did not want us
to do anything with that wave
629
00:31:27,619 --> 00:31:29,160
but pretend it didn't happen.
630
00:31:29,243 --> 00:31:31,410
- So I told them,
"Don't do anything with it."
631
00:31:31,494 --> 00:31:35,285
The photographer sent it
straight to "Surfer Europe."
632
00:31:35,369 --> 00:31:37,535
They write this big caption,
633
00:31:37,619 --> 00:31:41,577
"Garrett claims to have
surfed the 100-foot wave."
634
00:31:41,661 --> 00:31:45,369
And I see this,
and I'm just like, "What the--"
635
00:31:45,452 --> 00:31:48,327
- Get ready for what seems
to be the biggest wave
636
00:31:48,410 --> 00:31:50,911
ever surfed,
as high as 100 feet.
637
00:31:50,993 --> 00:31:54,202
- Yep, that tiny dot is
Garrett McNamara,
638
00:31:54,285 --> 00:31:57,911
dwarfed by probably
the biggest wave ever surfed.
639
00:31:57,993 --> 00:32:01,744
- The media picked it up,
and they said it was 100 feet,
640
00:32:01,827 --> 00:32:05,202
and as Garrett's manager,
641
00:32:05,285 --> 00:32:06,911
if they want
to call it 100 feet,
642
00:32:06,993 --> 00:32:08,410
I'm not gonna stop 'em.
643
00:32:08,494 --> 00:32:11,285
- 100-foot wave,
Garrett McNamara.
644
00:32:11,369 --> 00:32:12,827
- That wave wasn't 100 feet.
645
00:32:12,911 --> 00:32:14,243
I didn't ride a 100-foot wave,
646
00:32:14,327 --> 00:32:16,577
and the whole world thinks
I rode a 100-foot wave.
647
00:32:16,661 --> 00:32:18,410
- Guy's name is
Garrett McNamara.
648
00:32:18,494 --> 00:32:19,535
He's 45...
649
00:32:19,619 --> 00:32:21,786
- I remember looking
on the news.
650
00:32:21,869 --> 00:32:23,619
I just, like, blown it.
651
00:32:23,702 --> 00:32:26,243
I should've like...
I should've been there.
652
00:32:26,327 --> 00:32:29,869
You know, like,
I just was pretty gutted.
653
00:32:29,952 --> 00:32:32,911
- The photo of you on that wave
is unbelievable.
654
00:32:32,993 --> 00:32:34,744
How did it feel?
What was the ride like?
655
00:32:34,827 --> 00:32:37,452
- My feet were popping
out of the straps.
656
00:32:37,535 --> 00:32:39,118
It just felt...
657
00:32:39,202 --> 00:32:41,118
Really, really similar
to snowboarding...
658
00:32:41,202 --> 00:32:44,118
I was thinking, "Make it,
gotta make this."
659
00:32:44,202 --> 00:32:46,285
I didn't realize it
until the very end
660
00:32:46,369 --> 00:32:48,786
that I was almost on the rocks
when it kicked out...
661
00:32:48,869 --> 00:32:52,285
[plucky upbeat music]
662
00:32:52,369 --> 00:32:56,285
- In three years, we built
the North Canyon Project.
663
00:32:56,369 --> 00:32:59,327
In the beginning,
it belonged to a few of us.
664
00:32:59,410 --> 00:33:03,452
With that picture,
it was basically done.
665
00:33:03,535 --> 00:33:06,744
Finally, the people started
to understand the potential
666
00:33:06,827 --> 00:33:07,786
of our waves.
667
00:33:07,869 --> 00:33:11,327
Now Nazaré belongs
to the world, you know?
668
00:33:11,410 --> 00:33:12,827
I've done my job.
669
00:33:12,911 --> 00:33:15,786
- That was the biggest swell
that we caught here,
670
00:33:15,869 --> 00:33:20,494
and that was, like,
the biggest wave of the day.
671
00:33:20,577 --> 00:33:22,494
- I was with my team
in Brazil.
672
00:33:22,577 --> 00:33:24,827
I saw one interview
with Garrett.
673
00:33:24,911 --> 00:33:26,827
He told in the interview,
674
00:33:26,911 --> 00:33:29,535
"Nazaré is the biggest wave
in the world."
675
00:33:29,619 --> 00:33:31,786
Let's go there and see,
you know?
676
00:33:45,577 --> 00:33:47,452
- It's not
a low budget project.
677
00:33:47,535 --> 00:33:48,744
We need jet skis.
678
00:33:48,827 --> 00:33:50,827
You have to spend time there,
679
00:33:50,911 --> 00:33:52,035
especially back in the time,
680
00:33:52,118 --> 00:33:54,202
it didn't have
much infrastructure.
681
00:33:54,285 --> 00:33:59,744
- It felt very exciting to be
here with very few surfers.
682
00:33:59,827 --> 00:34:03,494
Was like a diamond, you know,
in the world
683
00:34:03,577 --> 00:34:06,035
that I couldn't believe
people weren't
684
00:34:06,118 --> 00:34:08,535
all over this place yet.
685
00:34:08,619 --> 00:34:11,118
Nobody had, like, a base here.
686
00:34:11,202 --> 00:34:13,077
Nobody was really dedicated
to the place.
687
00:34:13,160 --> 00:34:16,577
You know, you had Garrett
with three years of experience
688
00:34:16,661 --> 00:34:19,369
and a lot of, you know,
respect for the place,
689
00:34:19,452 --> 00:34:23,243
but us coming in
didn't really know how
690
00:34:23,327 --> 00:34:24,869
to handle the situation.
691
00:34:24,952 --> 00:34:27,702
- I was stoked
that people came,
692
00:34:27,786 --> 00:34:30,869
but I was really worried.
693
00:34:30,952 --> 00:34:34,535
I surfed with Maya a bunch
all over the world.
694
00:34:34,619 --> 00:34:37,744
She was probably the hardest
charging woman around,
695
00:34:37,827 --> 00:34:40,202
and she trained harder
than everybody,
696
00:34:40,285 --> 00:34:42,661
so she was ready.
697
00:34:42,744 --> 00:34:45,035
The thing
that really worried me,
698
00:34:45,118 --> 00:34:48,410
they didn't come to us
for advice.
699
00:34:48,494 --> 00:34:51,911
We were making all the rules
with the city hall
700
00:34:51,993 --> 00:34:53,577
and with the navy.
701
00:34:53,661 --> 00:34:55,911
To go out there,
you need a ski to tow
702
00:34:55,993 --> 00:34:57,202
and a safety ski,
703
00:34:57,285 --> 00:34:59,744
and you need communication
with a spotter on the cliff.
704
00:34:59,827 --> 00:35:05,285
But we are not responsible
when they hit the water.
705
00:35:05,369 --> 00:35:08,243
- First time I saw Nazaré
really big was
706
00:35:08,327 --> 00:35:11,452
October 28th of 2013.
707
00:35:11,535 --> 00:35:13,702
I saw this one wave,
and I just thought,
708
00:35:13,786 --> 00:35:15,786
"No, how can it be?"
709
00:35:15,869 --> 00:35:18,077
Like, how can a wave be
breaking there?
710
00:35:18,160 --> 00:35:20,535
Like, that's the lineup?
711
00:35:20,619 --> 00:35:23,577
- I went to Jaws.
I went to Mavericks.
712
00:35:23,661 --> 00:35:26,577
I went to the biggest waves
in the world,
713
00:35:26,661 --> 00:35:31,285
but I never saw nothing
like that.
714
00:35:31,369 --> 00:35:33,952
It was like a movie or
something like this, you know?
715
00:35:34,035 --> 00:35:35,993
This terror movie.
716
00:35:36,077 --> 00:35:38,744
- We heard a lot about
they backed off
717
00:35:38,827 --> 00:35:40,285
the shore break.
718
00:35:40,369 --> 00:35:42,243
We were used to shore breaks
719
00:35:42,327 --> 00:35:43,661
because we come from Brazil,
you know?
720
00:35:43,744 --> 00:35:45,786
Brazil is a place
of shore breaks.
721
00:35:45,869 --> 00:35:47,619
But Nazaré was
totally different.
722
00:35:47,702 --> 00:35:49,911
It was more powerful.
723
00:35:49,993 --> 00:35:54,077
- You have all kinds
of directions coming in.
724
00:35:54,160 --> 00:35:57,786
You have the bank,
and you have the cliff.
725
00:35:57,869 --> 00:36:00,702
- With those elements,
726
00:36:00,786 --> 00:36:03,202
you're never
on the safety zone in Nazaré.
727
00:36:03,285 --> 00:36:07,160
But I knew that was gonna
be doable.
728
00:36:07,243 --> 00:36:09,535
- They had no idea
what they were dealing with.
729
00:36:09,619 --> 00:36:12,327
If they come to me,
I would share everything
730
00:36:12,410 --> 00:36:13,661
that I learned there.
731
00:36:13,744 --> 00:36:16,993
They didn't ask
one single question,
732
00:36:17,077 --> 00:36:19,827
not one.
733
00:36:19,911 --> 00:36:22,702
- We just wanted to do it,
you know,
734
00:36:22,786 --> 00:36:24,285
because that's the way
735
00:36:24,369 --> 00:36:26,327
we've been doing for so long.
736
00:36:26,410 --> 00:36:28,160
You know, you gotta go
and learn for yourself.
737
00:36:28,243 --> 00:36:30,827
You gotta put time in.
You gotta earn.
738
00:36:30,911 --> 00:36:32,661
[soft dramatic music]
739
00:36:32,744 --> 00:36:34,661
- As soon as we got out
of the harbor,
740
00:36:34,744 --> 00:36:37,452
we went as fast
as possible to the peak
741
00:36:37,535 --> 00:36:39,160
and started surfing.
742
00:36:39,243 --> 00:36:41,786
- Gordo caught a wave
with Carlos.
743
00:36:41,869 --> 00:36:45,702
- It was a huge wave,
and he did very well.
744
00:36:45,786 --> 00:36:48,243
And then I got back
to the lineup,
745
00:36:48,327 --> 00:36:50,827
and we met with Maya
and Pedro again,
746
00:36:50,911 --> 00:36:52,661
and everybody wanted to surf.
747
00:36:52,744 --> 00:36:55,077
- I said to Maya,
"Go with Carlos, no problem,
748
00:36:55,160 --> 00:36:57,535
and ladies first."
749
00:36:57,619 --> 00:37:00,077
- I drove her for one wave,
750
00:37:00,160 --> 00:37:02,035
and she didn't
let the rope go.
751
00:37:02,118 --> 00:37:03,702
I drove her to another wave,
752
00:37:03,786 --> 00:37:05,160
and she didn't
let the rope go.
753
00:37:05,243 --> 00:37:07,327
Then the third wave,
same thing.
754
00:37:07,410 --> 00:37:08,702
And then I looked at her
and said,
755
00:37:08,786 --> 00:37:10,369
"Surf if you want to surf."
756
00:37:10,452 --> 00:37:14,369
- A big set came in.
We were driving towards it.
757
00:37:14,452 --> 00:37:17,369
- I said, "Hey, Maya.
The left, it's amazing.
758
00:37:17,452 --> 00:37:18,494
It's yours."
759
00:37:18,577 --> 00:37:20,285
And she let the rope go.
760
00:37:28,494 --> 00:37:31,285
- I remember kind of falling
on my back
761
00:37:31,369 --> 00:37:34,661
and kind of seeing
the wave covering me.
762
00:37:37,869 --> 00:37:42,077
I popped up, and nobody was
around to pick me up.
763
00:37:42,160 --> 00:37:44,911
- I was on the lighthouse
doing safety that day,
764
00:37:44,993 --> 00:37:47,243
and it was just--it was a mess.
765
00:37:47,327 --> 00:37:50,077
They didn't have
adequate safety at all.
766
00:37:50,160 --> 00:37:51,786
They had nobody on the cliff
767
00:37:51,869 --> 00:37:53,452
telling the driver
where to go,
768
00:37:53,535 --> 00:37:55,744
and he went
the opposite direction.
769
00:37:55,827 --> 00:37:57,202
- I couldn't find her,
you know?
770
00:37:57,285 --> 00:37:59,410
So I was going around,
and then I start to listen
771
00:37:59,494 --> 00:38:01,744
to people whistling
and screaming.
772
00:38:01,827 --> 00:38:05,911
[overlapping shouting]
773
00:38:05,993 --> 00:38:09,993
- I was, like, in that foam,
and then I just, boom,
774
00:38:10,077 --> 00:38:12,952
took this huge,
huge wave on the head.
775
00:38:13,035 --> 00:38:14,661
I blacked out of the impact,
776
00:38:14,744 --> 00:38:18,494
and my life jacket popped
over my head.
777
00:38:18,577 --> 00:38:21,993
I stayed under
for a long, long time
778
00:38:22,077 --> 00:38:25,285
and underwater
regained consciousness,
779
00:38:25,369 --> 00:38:26,869
and when I popped up,
780
00:38:26,952 --> 00:38:28,577
I couldn't really
breathe anymore,
781
00:38:28,661 --> 00:38:31,327
and he finally came to me.
782
00:38:31,410 --> 00:38:32,577
- He comes to pick her up,
783
00:38:32,661 --> 00:38:36,243
and pretty much runs her over
with the ski.
784
00:38:36,327 --> 00:38:37,827
- You know,
the last sense we lose
785
00:38:37,911 --> 00:38:40,077
before dying is hearing.
786
00:38:40,160 --> 00:38:42,619
So I couldn't see.
I wasn't there really anymore.
787
00:38:42,702 --> 00:38:44,993
But I remember his voice
really loudly.
788
00:38:45,077 --> 00:38:47,952
- And I said, "Just grab
the rope a little bit.
789
00:38:48,035 --> 00:38:51,160
I'll pull you a little bit
closer to the shore.
790
00:38:51,243 --> 00:38:54,535
- My last strength went
into grabbing that rope.
791
00:38:54,619 --> 00:38:56,619
- And he's, like,
dragging her underwater,
792
00:38:56,702 --> 00:39:00,744
and then she passes out,
and she's just drowning.
793
00:39:12,911 --> 00:39:16,327
- He grabs her, and he
brings her to the beach.
794
00:39:16,410 --> 00:39:17,869
- She died almost here,
you know,
795
00:39:17,952 --> 00:39:19,619
and he was reanimating her.
796
00:39:19,702 --> 00:39:23,202
[tense music]
797
00:39:23,285 --> 00:39:26,035
- I ran to the beach,
798
00:39:26,118 --> 00:39:28,327
and it's the lifeguard
and Carlos,
799
00:39:28,410 --> 00:39:29,786
and I just remember him
looking at me.
800
00:39:29,869 --> 00:39:31,452
He's like, "She's dead.
She's dead."
801
00:39:31,535 --> 00:39:35,202
♪ ♪
802
00:39:35,285 --> 00:39:37,869
And then all of a sudden,
this huge set comes
803
00:39:37,952 --> 00:39:41,410
and just washes all of us,
including her body,
804
00:39:41,494 --> 00:39:43,202
up the beach.
805
00:39:43,285 --> 00:39:46,494
Paramedics came at that point.
806
00:39:46,577 --> 00:39:48,327
- She started to move her hand
a little bit,
807
00:39:48,410 --> 00:39:50,577
and that caught my attention,
808
00:39:50,661 --> 00:39:52,243
and I said,
"Okay, she's moving."
809
00:39:52,327 --> 00:39:54,744
- So then they put her
in the ambulance.
810
00:39:54,827 --> 00:39:57,369
Meanwhile, Carlos runs back
to the beach and goes,
811
00:39:57,452 --> 00:39:59,327
"Help me get my ski in!"
812
00:39:59,410 --> 00:40:02,160
- I can't get involved
with my emotions.
813
00:40:02,243 --> 00:40:04,035
I have to think
about my training.
814
00:40:04,118 --> 00:40:05,661
I have to follow my protocol,
815
00:40:05,744 --> 00:40:07,535
and I have
to deliver my mission.
816
00:40:07,619 --> 00:40:09,202
I got a team.
I'm here.
817
00:40:09,285 --> 00:40:10,744
I'm here
to surf the biggest waves
818
00:40:10,827 --> 00:40:12,077
of my life with my team.
819
00:40:12,160 --> 00:40:13,577
I'm gonna do that.
820
00:40:13,661 --> 00:40:16,744
- So then he gets the jet ski,
runs it back to the harbor,
821
00:40:16,827 --> 00:40:18,577
and goes back out,
822
00:40:18,661 --> 00:40:21,952
and he does get one
of the waves of the day.
823
00:40:24,661 --> 00:40:28,577
- Was my biggest day
I had ever had a chance
824
00:40:28,661 --> 00:40:31,911
to surf at Nazaré,
so it was successful,
825
00:40:31,993 --> 00:40:35,452
but still, you know,
we had something
826
00:40:35,535 --> 00:40:38,410
that wasn't in our plans,
827
00:40:38,494 --> 00:40:41,202
but that happens
when you are surfing big waves.
828
00:41:04,619 --> 00:41:06,744
- These are very dangerous
waters, aren't they?
829
00:41:06,827 --> 00:41:09,452
So why do surfers take
these deadly risks?
830
00:41:09,535 --> 00:41:10,952
- Well, as a big wave rider,
you know,
831
00:41:11,035 --> 00:41:12,410
our objective is to be safe.
832
00:41:12,494 --> 00:41:15,827
If you get hit by the wave
after you've been riding it,
833
00:41:15,911 --> 00:41:18,327
we call that wiping out,
and that's a failed attempt
834
00:41:18,410 --> 00:41:20,327
in the school that I went to.
835
00:41:20,410 --> 00:41:22,661
And Maya,
she doesn't have the skill
836
00:41:22,744 --> 00:41:23,952
to be in these conditions,
837
00:41:24,035 --> 00:41:25,827
and I feel like
it's Carlos' responsibility
838
00:41:25,911 --> 00:41:27,494
to take care of her,
and he's just lucky
839
00:41:27,577 --> 00:41:28,827
that she didn't drown.
840
00:41:28,911 --> 00:41:33,160
- Yeah, I mean, he did take
care of her, didn't he?
841
00:41:33,243 --> 00:41:34,952
- I was very hurt at the time.
842
00:41:35,035 --> 00:41:36,786
Of course, you know,
I'm an athlete.
843
00:41:36,869 --> 00:41:39,494
I get seriously injured
doing my job,
844
00:41:39,577 --> 00:41:42,827
and the first thing
that comes out of one
845
00:41:42,911 --> 00:41:46,661
of our icons' mouth is,
"You shouldn't be out there."
846
00:41:46,744 --> 00:41:50,702
As a human on intensive care,
I expected to hear,
847
00:41:50,786 --> 00:41:53,702
"I wish her the best,
speedy recovery."
848
00:41:53,786 --> 00:41:57,619
But you know, I think
emotions were flying high.
849
00:41:57,702 --> 00:42:00,243
- You hate to offend anybody,
850
00:42:00,327 --> 00:42:03,369
but when you see the footage
of these wrecks,
851
00:42:03,452 --> 00:42:06,702
and you hear these injuries,
that's a warning sign.
852
00:42:06,786 --> 00:42:09,786
You better be prepared
and know what
853
00:42:09,869 --> 00:42:11,202
you're getting yourself into
854
00:42:11,285 --> 00:42:13,327
when you go
into these conditions.
855
00:42:13,410 --> 00:42:15,369
- Somebody literally
almost died.
856
00:42:15,452 --> 00:42:18,243
Like, she was dead.
They brought her back to life.
857
00:42:18,327 --> 00:42:19,869
You know, at that point,
you think, it's like,
858
00:42:19,952 --> 00:42:22,202
"Well, why are you doing this?"
859
00:42:22,285 --> 00:42:25,327
And I remember thinking
how selfish they are,
860
00:42:25,410 --> 00:42:26,827
and if you want to do this,
that's fine,
861
00:42:26,911 --> 00:42:28,202
but then you shouldn't
have a wife,
862
00:42:28,285 --> 00:42:30,035
and you shouldn't have kids.
863
00:42:30,118 --> 00:42:31,869
- But I didn't expect anything
like this to happen.
864
00:42:31,952 --> 00:42:34,494
- Okay, I'm glad
you're prepared for it.
865
00:42:34,577 --> 00:42:36,369
- I'm prepared for it.
- But nobody else was.
866
00:42:36,452 --> 00:42:38,786
- Well, they're going
in the wrong spot--
867
00:42:38,869 --> 00:42:40,243
- I'm gonna go.
- And pushing the limits of--
868
00:42:40,327 --> 00:42:43,035
- I'm gonna go.
869
00:42:43,118 --> 00:42:44,661
- It was the third year,
870
00:42:44,744 --> 00:42:48,661
and that was the worst
accident we had seen.
871
00:43:07,911 --> 00:43:09,619
- I did kind of feel
responsible
872
00:43:09,702 --> 00:43:11,911
because I was the one who
pretty much brought everybody
873
00:43:11,993 --> 00:43:13,243
to Nazaré.
874
00:43:13,327 --> 00:43:15,077
Big wave surfing's dangerous,
875
00:43:15,160 --> 00:43:18,577
and this place here is
more challenging
876
00:43:18,661 --> 00:43:22,577
than any wave in the world.
877
00:43:22,661 --> 00:43:28,577
- That place can tell you
that you're not prepared.
878
00:43:28,661 --> 00:43:33,243
So I think every team started
to understand that
879
00:43:33,327 --> 00:43:37,327
and copy our system.
880
00:43:48,285 --> 00:43:52,827
- All swells booming down
to Portugal with no wind,
881
00:43:52,911 --> 00:43:54,952
no wind for, like,
a whole day,
882
00:43:55,035 --> 00:43:57,911
which is what I've been
waiting for.
883
00:43:57,993 --> 00:44:01,619
So I literally just
booked a flight,
884
00:44:01,702 --> 00:44:07,702
and we'll be in the sea
before it gets light.
885
00:44:10,327 --> 00:44:13,160
I was on the brink
of reapplying
886
00:44:13,243 --> 00:44:15,494
for full-time jobs, you know,
going down that road,
887
00:44:15,577 --> 00:44:18,786
and luckily, Katie--we talked
about it.
888
00:44:18,869 --> 00:44:20,786
She sort of said, "Go with
your heart and your passion,
889
00:44:20,869 --> 00:44:25,369
and things work out."
890
00:44:25,452 --> 00:44:28,577
But it was a huge gamble.
891
00:44:33,535 --> 00:44:36,911
[indistinct chatter]
892
00:44:44,035 --> 00:44:46,160
Full of anticipation,
you know?
893
00:44:46,243 --> 00:44:49,993
Just want to get out there.
894
00:44:50,077 --> 00:44:51,661
[unintelligible]
895
00:44:51,744 --> 00:44:54,619
[soft music]
896
00:44:54,702 --> 00:45:01,702
♪ ♪
897
00:45:34,494 --> 00:45:36,494
As a surfer,
the session wasn't great,
898
00:45:36,577 --> 00:45:40,369
but the video footage just
looks nuts, you know?
899
00:45:40,452 --> 00:45:42,035
People were tagging it, like,
"Biggest wave ever."
900
00:45:42,118 --> 00:45:44,661
And then it wasn't
till I'd return, flown home.
901
00:45:44,744 --> 00:45:46,035
Tuesday morning I woke up,
902
00:45:46,118 --> 00:45:48,243
and it was just like carnage.
903
00:45:48,327 --> 00:45:50,577
- And our Instant Index tonight
begins with a man
904
00:45:50,661 --> 00:45:52,243
who is a plumber by trade
905
00:45:52,327 --> 00:45:54,410
but riding into history.
Look at this...
906
00:45:54,494 --> 00:45:57,827
- We go live via Skype
to Braunton in Devon.
907
00:45:57,911 --> 00:46:01,410
There he is.
He is Andrew Cotton, and son.
908
00:46:01,494 --> 00:46:02,911
- The media ran with it,
909
00:46:02,993 --> 00:46:04,494
which was great
for his career.
910
00:46:04,577 --> 00:46:06,494
He was able to quit plumbing.
911
00:46:06,577 --> 00:46:10,369
- The wave got entered
into the biggest wave category
912
00:46:10,452 --> 00:46:13,077
at the Billabong XXL Awards.
913
00:46:13,160 --> 00:46:16,869
The XXL awards is important
for a surfer, you know?
914
00:46:16,952 --> 00:46:18,452
- I was super happy for him.
915
00:46:18,535 --> 00:46:22,077
I couldn't wait to see him win.
916
00:46:22,160 --> 00:46:25,577
- The winner of 2014 XXL
biggest wave award is
917
00:46:25,661 --> 00:46:27,077
Gautier Garanx.
918
00:46:27,160 --> 00:46:28,952
Photo by Eric Bellande.
919
00:46:29,035 --> 00:46:32,285
The wave was 62 feet.
920
00:46:32,369 --> 00:46:34,619
- I kind of had an inkling
that I wouldn't win, really.
921
00:46:34,702 --> 00:46:37,369
Always had doubt,
and, you know,
922
00:46:37,452 --> 00:46:41,619
the story's too--it would've
been too perfect, you know.
923
00:46:41,702 --> 00:46:45,243
- He didn't win.
It was a bummer.
924
00:46:45,327 --> 00:46:49,369
[cheers and applause]
925
00:47:01,369 --> 00:47:03,786
- When we got back in 2015,
926
00:47:03,869 --> 00:47:07,494
we really wanted to create
something on our own.
927
00:47:07,577 --> 00:47:10,661
So we created
the "Red Chargers."
928
00:47:10,744 --> 00:47:13,369
- It was about the surfers
that look for the red blobs
929
00:47:13,452 --> 00:47:15,952
on the map and go charge.
930
00:47:16,035 --> 00:47:20,035
- The whole goal
of the "Red Chargers" is
931
00:47:20,118 --> 00:47:24,494
to put a face to these people
on the waves,
932
00:47:24,577 --> 00:47:26,827
which is different
than what most
933
00:47:26,911 --> 00:47:29,035
of the big waves sites do.
934
00:47:29,118 --> 00:47:31,661
You know, usually it is--the
focus is just the wave,
935
00:47:31,744 --> 00:47:33,827
and you don't even know
what the person looks like.
936
00:47:33,911 --> 00:47:39,118
And all of these guys and women
have an incredible story.
937
00:47:39,202 --> 00:47:41,160
You know, they've had to
overcome a lot
938
00:47:41,243 --> 00:47:42,952
to follow their dreams.
939
00:47:43,035 --> 00:47:47,327
That is our goal is for all
of you to know them as people,
940
00:47:47,410 --> 00:47:48,993
not just as--
941
00:47:49,077 --> 00:47:50,911
- The little dot.
- The little dot.
942
00:47:50,993 --> 00:47:53,202
[applause]
943
00:47:53,285 --> 00:47:55,535
[cheers]
944
00:47:55,619 --> 00:47:59,160
- It wasn't a contest.
It was a free surf.
945
00:47:59,243 --> 00:48:04,535
And it was really
to showcase the underdogs.
946
00:48:04,619 --> 00:48:05,869
♪ ♪
947
00:48:05,952 --> 00:48:08,535
We filmed all winter.
948
00:48:08,619 --> 00:48:10,369
♪ ♪
949
00:48:10,452 --> 00:48:12,243
Try and mark where he is
right now.
950
00:48:12,327 --> 00:48:14,410
That's the spot,
right where Hugo is.
951
00:48:14,494 --> 00:48:16,202
Right there, that's the wave!
952
00:48:16,285 --> 00:48:19,369
Look at this one, Cotty.
953
00:48:19,452 --> 00:48:23,702
- The idea was
to have a little video
954
00:48:23,786 --> 00:48:27,077
about each surfer,
955
00:48:27,160 --> 00:48:29,535
really tell their stories.
956
00:48:29,619 --> 00:48:32,993
[children laugh]
957
00:48:33,077 --> 00:48:36,661
♪ ♪
958
00:48:38,160 --> 00:48:40,327
- How'd it go out there?
959
00:48:43,327 --> 00:48:45,702
- It was fun, yeah.
960
00:48:47,911 --> 00:48:49,410
That's what surfing's about,
isn't it?
961
00:48:49,494 --> 00:48:52,410
Fun.
That's super fun.
962
00:48:52,494 --> 00:48:58,118
♪ ♪
963
00:48:58,202 --> 00:49:00,619
- At that time,
Garrett was training hard
964
00:49:00,702 --> 00:49:05,243
and just surfing more
than he's ever surfed.
965
00:49:05,327 --> 00:49:08,744
- He was on fire, and
he got a lot of good waves.
966
00:49:08,827 --> 00:49:11,911
♪ ♪
967
00:49:11,993 --> 00:49:15,410
- I was at the peak
of my career physically,
968
00:49:15,494 --> 00:49:18,827
mentally,
with all of my partners,
969
00:49:18,911 --> 00:49:22,077
sponsors, friends.
970
00:49:22,160 --> 00:49:26,577
We had everything
going so well.
971
00:49:26,661 --> 00:49:30,452
Barrel!
- Is that your dada?
972
00:49:30,535 --> 00:49:33,577
Sick Barrel, Dad.
- Whoo-hoo.
973
00:49:33,661 --> 00:49:37,911
And I realized for years,
I had put all my energy
974
00:49:37,993 --> 00:49:39,285
into Portugal,
975
00:49:39,369 --> 00:49:42,786
and then once I accomplished
everything
976
00:49:42,869 --> 00:49:44,327
I wanted
to accomplish there...
977
00:49:44,410 --> 00:49:47,035
Where's your style?
Where's your style?
978
00:49:47,118 --> 00:49:49,494
Where's your style?
979
00:49:49,577 --> 00:49:53,744
I was so ready
to surf the world again.
980
00:50:08,577 --> 00:50:11,619
Magic Stick,
this thing is so beautiful.
981
00:50:11,702 --> 00:50:14,243
This is what I'm gonna ride
at Mavs.
982
00:50:14,327 --> 00:50:18,035
- There was world tour
of big wave surfing
983
00:50:18,118 --> 00:50:20,285
at that time,
best big wave spots,
984
00:50:20,369 --> 00:50:22,827
and there was gonna be
a contest at each spot.
985
00:50:22,911 --> 00:50:24,619
How they determine
who's invited is
986
00:50:24,702 --> 00:50:26,661
what is up for discussion.
987
00:50:26,744 --> 00:50:30,827
Garrett was not on the list
for the Mavericks contest.
988
00:50:30,911 --> 00:50:32,952
He calls the director
and is like,
989
00:50:33,035 --> 00:50:34,661
"Hey, I want to be
in the contest.
990
00:50:34,744 --> 00:50:36,661
"I've been at Mavericks
many times.
991
00:50:36,744 --> 00:50:38,535
I've put my time in there."
992
00:50:38,619 --> 00:50:40,993
They said you gotta be
at every swell
993
00:50:41,077 --> 00:50:44,077
if you want to be invited
to this contest.
994
00:50:44,160 --> 00:50:47,243
He was just on a mission to be
at every swell
995
00:50:47,327 --> 00:50:50,243
at Mavericks
and prove himself.
996
00:50:50,327 --> 00:50:51,952
And this swell popped up.
997
00:50:52,035 --> 00:50:54,369
He was just gonna go
for the day.
998
00:50:54,452 --> 00:50:56,535
After being in Nazaré
five years,
999
00:50:56,619 --> 00:50:57,869
Mavericks was a cakewalk.
1000
00:50:57,952 --> 00:51:02,535
I was in a really good place.
I felt super confident.
1001
00:51:02,619 --> 00:51:04,202
The forecast was
a little sketchy,
1002
00:51:04,285 --> 00:51:06,535
like, there was gonna be wind,
no wind, wind, no wind.
1003
00:51:06,619 --> 00:51:08,535
So I was one of the only guys
that went.
1004
00:51:08,619 --> 00:51:10,243
I was so happy.
1005
00:51:12,243 --> 00:51:14,327
Ready, Fonso?
- Yeah.
1006
00:51:14,410 --> 00:51:17,535
- Let's do it!
- Let's go.
1007
00:51:17,619 --> 00:51:21,911
- I paddled out past everybody
and sat there,
1008
00:51:21,993 --> 00:51:26,077
and boom,
a set came right to me.
1009
00:51:26,160 --> 00:51:29,035
I turn around.
I take a couple casual strokes.
1010
00:51:29,118 --> 00:51:30,744
Chh, chh.
1011
00:51:30,827 --> 00:51:32,744
[tense music]
1012
00:51:32,827 --> 00:51:35,535
Stood up,
1013
00:51:35,619 --> 00:51:38,410
and then everything just
kind of went wrong.
1014
00:51:38,494 --> 00:51:40,744
- Oh, my God.
1015
00:51:40,827 --> 00:51:43,661
Oh!
1016
00:51:50,827 --> 00:51:53,577
- He's down!
1017
00:51:53,661 --> 00:51:56,535
[soft music]
1018
00:51:56,619 --> 00:52:03,661
♪ ♪
1019
00:53:03,410 --> 00:53:05,619
[bright tone]
1020
00:53:07,035 --> 00:53:07,911
GARRETT MACNAMARA:
Before Mavericks,
1021
00:53:08,243 --> 00:53:10,993
when I crushed my shoulder,
there was no fear.
1022
00:53:11,285 --> 00:53:13,202
I don't know what
it's going to be like
1023
00:53:13,285 --> 00:53:14,661
when I get back out there.
1024
00:53:14,744 --> 00:53:15,993
♪ (EPIC MUSIC PLAYS) ♪
1025
00:53:16,327 --> 00:53:18,494
MACNAMARA: The wave that I've
been dreaming about for years
1026
00:53:18,577 --> 00:53:19,786
is actually on the map.
1027
00:53:20,118 --> 00:53:22,911
Now it's time to get serious,
time to train hard.
1028
00:53:23,243 --> 00:53:25,827
I knew that someone was gonna
get one of the biggest waves
1029
00:53:25,952 --> 00:53:27,160
of the year, for sure.
1030
00:53:27,577 --> 00:53:30,952
(SPEAKING IN PORTUGUESE)
1031
00:53:31,869 --> 00:53:33,535
MACANAMRA: I don't fear dying.
1032
00:53:33,619 --> 00:53:36,243
I get more fearful
of not being able to surf.
1033
00:53:36,327 --> 00:53:37,285
I fear that.
1034
00:53:37,619 --> 00:53:39,077
-SPEAKER: Katie.
-KATIE: Hi.
1035
00:53:39,160 --> 00:53:41,786
We got bad news.
Padi got hurt.
73632
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