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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,600 --> 00:00:07,920 'I'm rejoining the rails for another epic adventure.' 2 00:00:07,920 --> 00:00:09,360 Are you excited? Who wouldn't be? 3 00:00:09,360 --> 00:00:12,040 'I'm travelling around the globe again...' 4 00:00:12,040 --> 00:00:15,480 I'm riding some of the most legendary trains in the world. 5 00:00:15,480 --> 00:00:20,360 HORN TOOTS '..to experience more spectacular railways...' 6 00:00:20,360 --> 00:00:22,360 Look at this place! 7 00:00:22,360 --> 00:00:23,840 '..from the Arctic Circle...' 8 00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:25,800 Ooh! 9 00:00:25,800 --> 00:00:29,000 ..to the glorious Andes. 10 00:00:29,000 --> 00:00:32,360 'And the heart of Europe...' Isn't it fantastic? 11 00:00:32,360 --> 00:00:34,360 It's just a ticket hall! 12 00:00:34,360 --> 00:00:37,320 '..to the edge of America.' 13 00:00:37,320 --> 00:00:40,000 Oh, this is amazing! 14 00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:42,400 'And I'll venture off the tracks 15 00:00:42,400 --> 00:00:45,600 'to discover awe-inspiring places...' 16 00:00:45,600 --> 00:00:48,720 England! '..extraordinary people...' 17 00:00:48,720 --> 00:00:51,040 Hey! No! Turn it! 18 00:00:51,040 --> 00:00:54,120 '..and unforgettable experiences.' 19 00:00:56,200 --> 00:00:58,560 It's staggering, isn't it? 20 00:00:59,520 --> 00:01:00,840 Ah! 21 00:01:10,440 --> 00:01:14,640 'This week, my train travels are taking me through Mexico 22 00:01:14,640 --> 00:01:16,960 'and the United States. 23 00:01:18,640 --> 00:01:21,160 'I'm starting in the north of Mexico, 24 00:01:21,160 --> 00:01:24,160 'on a train that begins on the country's west coast. 25 00:01:24,160 --> 00:01:26,920 'I'll visit the remote village of Divisadero, 26 00:01:26,920 --> 00:01:28,560 'the city of Chihuahua 27 00:01:28,560 --> 00:01:30,960 'and the border town of Juarez, 28 00:01:30,960 --> 00:01:33,920 'before I cross into Texas and El Paso. 29 00:01:33,920 --> 00:01:37,400 'I'll finish over 12,000 miles later 30 00:01:37,400 --> 00:01:40,760 'in the glitz and glamour of Los Angeles. 31 00:01:40,760 --> 00:01:42,640 'When I think of Mexico, 32 00:01:42,640 --> 00:01:44,520 'I think of Trump's wall 33 00:01:44,520 --> 00:01:47,080 'and the country's economic struggles, 34 00:01:47,080 --> 00:01:51,320 'but I want to get beyond all that to see how modern Mexico is changing, 35 00:01:51,320 --> 00:01:55,280 'by crossing the north of the country by train.' 36 00:01:56,560 --> 00:01:58,240 This isn't any old train. 37 00:01:58,240 --> 00:02:03,720 This is one of the most luxurious trains in the world. 38 00:02:03,720 --> 00:02:06,600 'I'm on El Chepe Express, 39 00:02:06,600 --> 00:02:09,800 'a new service designed to attract foreign tourists. 40 00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:13,000 'They've aimed it at an upmarket clientele, 41 00:02:13,000 --> 00:02:16,680 'with tickets costing hundreds of pounds. 42 00:02:16,680 --> 00:02:18,040 'There's top-notch dining...' 43 00:02:18,040 --> 00:02:21,880 That's lovely. Thank you very much. 44 00:02:24,640 --> 00:02:26,640 It's gorgeous! 45 00:02:26,640 --> 00:02:30,640 I thought coming to Mexico was all going to be about street markets 46 00:02:30,640 --> 00:02:32,960 and the swirl of dust. 47 00:02:32,960 --> 00:02:35,960 I didn't think it would be quite this luxurious. 48 00:02:35,960 --> 00:02:38,840 '..and a bar with a unique view.' 49 00:02:38,840 --> 00:02:41,640 Margarita in my hand! 50 00:02:41,640 --> 00:02:45,120 You don't get this on the London to Brighton line, do you? 51 00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:48,680 I'm having such a lovely time! 52 00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:53,640 'This is already a view of Mexico I wasn't expecting, 53 00:02:53,640 --> 00:02:56,720 'all these canyons and mountain tunnels 54 00:02:56,720 --> 00:03:00,080 'and some spectacular viaducts.' 55 00:03:01,680 --> 00:03:05,680 I'm in Mexico right now and I'm going up to the USA, 56 00:03:05,680 --> 00:03:08,880 two countries which may seem entirely different 57 00:03:08,880 --> 00:03:12,960 but have got a fascinating shared history and culture. 58 00:03:12,960 --> 00:03:17,320 'In fact, until 200 years ago, the whole area I'm going to travel through 59 00:03:17,320 --> 00:03:20,360 'was all part of Mexico. 60 00:03:20,360 --> 00:03:23,560 'I'm crossing the infamous border that now divides them 61 00:03:23,560 --> 00:03:27,800 'to see what modern life's like in both countries, 62 00:03:27,800 --> 00:03:29,720 'and I'm doing so by train 63 00:03:29,720 --> 00:03:33,440 'so I can visit some places that aren't normally on the tourist trail, 64 00:03:33,440 --> 00:03:38,360 'like the spectacular mountains of Mexico's Sierra Madre.' 65 00:03:38,360 --> 00:03:40,120 It really is lovely in here. 66 00:03:40,120 --> 00:03:44,320 Although, actually, it's not what's inside that really counts, 67 00:03:44,320 --> 00:03:46,200 it's what's outside, 68 00:03:46,200 --> 00:03:49,120 because that could bring tears to your eyes. 69 00:03:52,080 --> 00:03:54,680 'What an amazing landscape. 70 00:03:55,760 --> 00:03:59,960 'Building a train line through it must've been an engineering nightmare. 71 00:04:03,840 --> 00:04:07,800 'An American explorer first had the idea for a train here 72 00:04:07,800 --> 00:04:09,800 'in the late 19th century. 73 00:04:09,800 --> 00:04:12,000 'But the train was so incredibly difficult, 74 00:04:12,000 --> 00:04:15,160 'it took nearly six decades to complete. 75 00:04:15,160 --> 00:04:18,560 '37 bridges and 86 tunnels later, 76 00:04:18,560 --> 00:04:24,120 'the track now climbs 2,400 metres above sea level. 77 00:04:27,320 --> 00:04:30,480 'I'm getting off at the remote Divisadero Station 78 00:04:30,480 --> 00:04:32,880 'with the rest of the tourists. 79 00:04:37,560 --> 00:04:39,760 'Because after eight hours, 80 00:04:39,760 --> 00:04:43,080 'the train has reached its star attraction - 81 00:04:43,080 --> 00:04:45,080 'the Copper Canyon.' 82 00:04:45,080 --> 00:04:47,120 There's no town here, 83 00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:50,560 it's just a load of these market stalls 84 00:04:50,560 --> 00:04:53,800 and, over here, this hotel. 85 00:04:53,800 --> 00:04:58,120 In fact, the only reason that there's a station here at all 86 00:04:58,120 --> 00:05:01,760 is so that people can get off the train 87 00:05:01,760 --> 00:05:03,800 and look at that, 88 00:05:03,800 --> 00:05:07,440 which is a pretty good reason for building a station, isn't it? 89 00:05:10,320 --> 00:05:15,240 'The Copper Canyon covers four times the area of America's Grand Canyon, 90 00:05:15,240 --> 00:05:18,840 'and in some places, the distance from the top to the bottom 91 00:05:18,840 --> 00:05:21,200 'is more than a mile. 92 00:05:21,200 --> 00:05:23,280 'Formed over 30 million years ago, 93 00:05:23,280 --> 00:05:26,840 'it's made up of stunning natural rock formations 94 00:05:26,840 --> 00:05:28,800 'and vast waterfalls. 95 00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:31,640 'But even in this extreme landscape, 96 00:05:31,640 --> 00:05:34,200 'there are people who've made a home here. 97 00:05:34,200 --> 00:05:37,200 'Around 50,000 indigenous Mexicans, 98 00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:38,920 'known as the Raramuri, 99 00:05:38,920 --> 00:05:41,440 'live in and around the canyon. 100 00:05:41,440 --> 00:05:44,240 'Brothers Martin and Nacho are two of them.' 101 00:05:44,240 --> 00:05:46,840 How long have your people been in Mexico? 102 00:05:51,320 --> 00:05:53,560 14,000 years? Yes. 103 00:05:53,560 --> 00:05:57,920 'The Raramuri are among the last native people in North America 104 00:05:57,920 --> 00:05:59,840 'to still live the traditional way of life, 105 00:05:59,840 --> 00:06:03,320 'partly because up here, they've remained so cut off from the rest of the world.' 106 00:06:03,320 --> 00:06:07,200 Why didn't you live in the more fertile lands over there? 107 00:06:27,320 --> 00:06:31,000 'Living in this tough terrain for hundreds of years 108 00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:32,760 'has had an unexpected effect. 109 00:06:32,760 --> 00:06:36,480 'The Raramuri are so fit from just getting around here, 110 00:06:36,480 --> 00:06:38,960 'they've become excellent long-distance runners. 111 00:06:38,960 --> 00:06:41,640 'Running is central to their way of life 112 00:06:41,640 --> 00:06:45,480 'and they regularly beat professionals in ultramarathon races, 113 00:06:45,480 --> 00:06:50,160 'despite a fairly low-tech approach to shoe design...' 114 00:06:50,160 --> 00:06:53,760 They look like a couple of AA men, don't they? 115 00:06:53,760 --> 00:06:57,320 '..which relies on old, discarded tyres...' 116 00:06:57,320 --> 00:07:01,000 Will these be better than if I'd bought a $300 pair of trainers? 117 00:07:03,600 --> 00:07:06,560 '..and a race diet consisting of pinole, 118 00:07:06,560 --> 00:07:08,160 'a natural energy drink 119 00:07:08,160 --> 00:07:11,800 'made of corn, water and chia seeds. 120 00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:14,320 'Still handmade by women like Isabel, 121 00:07:14,320 --> 00:07:18,920 'it's said to give them the stamina to keep running for hundreds of miles. 122 00:07:18,920 --> 00:07:23,360 'That may be true but, my goodness, it tastes dire.' 123 00:07:26,120 --> 00:07:28,400 HE ROARS 124 00:07:28,400 --> 00:07:30,360 I better go and try it out on the track, hadn't I? 125 00:07:30,360 --> 00:07:34,600 Nacho, we're going to do the race. Come on. MAN SPEAKS SPANISH 126 00:07:34,600 --> 00:07:39,720 'The Raramuri record is 430 miles in 48 hours.' 127 00:07:39,720 --> 00:07:42,400 Three, two, one, vamanos! 128 00:07:42,400 --> 00:07:45,040 'That's 16 times the distance of a marathon. 129 00:07:48,320 --> 00:07:52,520 'Never mind racing, I'm really struggling to keep my shoes on. 130 00:07:54,000 --> 00:07:58,960 'Still to come, I go off the rails in the desert...' 131 00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:00,520 Wow! 132 00:08:00,520 --> 00:08:03,120 '..meet a Mexican whose bark is worse than her bite...' 133 00:08:03,120 --> 00:08:06,800 I've actually seen a Chihuahua in Chihuahua. 134 00:08:06,800 --> 00:08:08,200 DOG YAPS Ooh! 135 00:08:08,200 --> 00:08:12,840 '..and make my inner trainspotter's wildest dreams come true.' 136 00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:16,200 I'd be quite happy shooting the whole of the rest of the episode sitting here. 137 00:08:22,380 --> 00:08:24,180 'I'm rejoining the rails 138 00:08:24,180 --> 00:08:26,980 'to continue my journey through Mexico 139 00:08:26,980 --> 00:08:29,460 'and across the border into the US. 140 00:08:29,460 --> 00:08:33,420 'To get to my next stop, I'm swapping the luxury train 141 00:08:33,420 --> 00:08:35,900 'for the normal local service. 142 00:08:35,900 --> 00:08:38,860 'Although Mexico isn't known for its railways, 143 00:08:38,860 --> 00:08:44,460 'in this remote region the train is still a crucial connection to the rest of the country. 144 00:08:47,420 --> 00:08:52,100 'I'm leaving the mountains behind and travelling more than 200 miles northwest, 145 00:08:52,100 --> 00:08:55,660 'towards the Mexican desert and the city of Chihuahua.' 146 00:08:57,900 --> 00:09:00,780 This time, I'm not on a luxury tourist express. 147 00:09:00,780 --> 00:09:03,420 This is El Chepe Regional, 148 00:09:03,420 --> 00:09:08,380 which has been going up and down this line since 1961. 149 00:09:08,380 --> 00:09:14,020 It's the train that everybody uses and it's the only one that goes right to the end of the line. 150 00:09:14,020 --> 00:09:17,420 This is only an ordinary, bog-standard carriage, 151 00:09:17,420 --> 00:09:20,220 but it is in pretty good nick, isn't it? 152 00:09:20,220 --> 00:09:22,420 It's lovely. 153 00:09:22,420 --> 00:09:24,060 Ahh! 154 00:09:28,100 --> 00:09:30,500 'And I'm getting a look behind the scenes, too. 155 00:09:30,500 --> 00:09:33,140 'They've offered to give me a quick peek at the cab.' 156 00:09:33,140 --> 00:09:35,180 Here we go. 157 00:09:35,180 --> 00:09:39,460 We've got to hurry, apparently, before the train starts again. MAN SHOUTS IN SPANISH 158 00:09:41,020 --> 00:09:43,060 "Quick, quick, quick, quick!" 159 00:09:43,060 --> 00:09:46,900 'Yeah, all right!' This way. MAN SHOUTS IN SPANISH 160 00:09:46,900 --> 00:09:48,140 Here we go. 161 00:09:48,140 --> 00:09:50,140 'There's only one of these trains a day, 162 00:09:50,140 --> 00:09:54,340 'but 17,000 people rely on this service every month.' 163 00:09:54,340 --> 00:09:56,020 HORN TOOTS 164 00:09:56,020 --> 00:09:59,020 Are you all right? Are you in? HORN TOOTS 165 00:09:59,020 --> 00:10:02,620 Muchas gracias. This is great. Fantastic. 166 00:10:07,500 --> 00:10:11,540 Oh, my God, we can see out the front, too! 167 00:10:11,540 --> 00:10:13,420 'Forget fancy tourist trains, 168 00:10:13,420 --> 00:10:15,660 'this is what I came for.' 169 00:10:16,660 --> 00:10:18,540 Isn't that fantastic? 170 00:10:18,540 --> 00:10:22,780 I'd be quite happy shooting the whole of the rest of the episode sitting here. 171 00:10:22,780 --> 00:10:26,500 'But that wouldn't be much of a travel show, would it? 172 00:10:30,140 --> 00:10:32,300 'Time for my next stop - 173 00:10:32,300 --> 00:10:34,020 'Chihuahua. 174 00:10:35,620 --> 00:10:39,220 'This part of Mexico is still a bit off the beaten track, 175 00:10:39,220 --> 00:10:42,020 'but Chihuahua is where the Copper Canyon railway ends. 176 00:10:42,020 --> 00:10:44,380 'So thanks to my train journey, 177 00:10:44,380 --> 00:10:47,220 'I'm getting a chance to explore somewhere new. 178 00:10:47,220 --> 00:10:50,660 'Already, it's not what I expected.' 179 00:10:54,660 --> 00:10:59,740 I thought Chihuahua would probably be a tiny little one-horse town, like you see in the movies, 180 00:10:59,740 --> 00:11:02,900 but maybe with lots of little dogs running around. 181 00:11:02,900 --> 00:11:06,860 But it's not like that at all! It's a city like any other, 182 00:11:06,860 --> 00:11:09,460 with a Domino's and a Subway 183 00:11:09,460 --> 00:11:12,700 and a Kentucky Fried Chicken and a Burger King. 184 00:11:12,700 --> 00:11:16,900 And look over there! Chihuahua has a Woolies! 185 00:11:20,180 --> 00:11:22,660 This is what I wanted to see. 186 00:11:22,660 --> 00:11:25,660 I've actually seen a Chihuahua in Chihuahua. 187 00:11:27,500 --> 00:11:29,140 DOG YAPS Ooh! 188 00:11:29,140 --> 00:11:31,420 She's a little bit feisty. 189 00:11:31,420 --> 00:11:32,740 DOG YAPS 190 00:11:32,740 --> 00:11:36,660 'It turns out Chihuahua is a thoroughly modern metropolis, 191 00:11:36,660 --> 00:11:38,500 'with nearly a million residents. 192 00:11:38,500 --> 00:11:41,300 'Because it's so close to the United States, 193 00:11:41,300 --> 00:11:46,460 'this area is now an important centre for mass producing everything for the American market, 194 00:11:46,460 --> 00:11:48,940 'from cars to clothes. 195 00:11:48,940 --> 00:11:53,620 'While this has helped make Chihuahua Mexico's most prosperous state, 196 00:11:53,620 --> 00:11:56,700 'it still isn't well-known to outsiders. 197 00:11:56,700 --> 00:12:01,940 'But a new generation are looking to promote the area and its more home-spun produce 198 00:12:01,940 --> 00:12:03,860 'to the rest of the world. 199 00:12:03,860 --> 00:12:06,100 'I've come to one of Chihuahua's hippest bars 200 00:12:06,100 --> 00:12:10,460 'to find out how one local drink, northern Mexico's answer to Tequila, 201 00:12:10,460 --> 00:12:13,060 'has been given a new lease of life. 202 00:12:13,060 --> 00:12:15,500 'Businessman Juan Pablo Carvajal 203 00:12:15,500 --> 00:12:19,220 'is a native of the city and owner of a brand of sotol.' 204 00:12:19,220 --> 00:12:23,580 It says up there "In Sotol We Trust." 205 00:12:23,580 --> 00:12:27,540 What's sotol? Sotol is the traditional spirit of Chihuahua. 206 00:12:27,540 --> 00:12:30,980 It's made of a plant of the same name that grows in the Chihuahuan desert, 207 00:12:30,980 --> 00:12:32,780 and that's where we're at right now. 208 00:12:32,780 --> 00:12:34,060 Cheers. 209 00:12:34,060 --> 00:12:35,460 Salud. 210 00:12:38,820 --> 00:12:40,100 It's really nice. 211 00:12:40,100 --> 00:12:41,820 I can imagine the people 212 00:12:41,820 --> 00:12:46,140 who like mezcal and tequila... Sure. ..would like this. 213 00:12:46,140 --> 00:12:50,340 I think it's interesting, because Chihuahua had this tradition for a very long time 214 00:12:50,340 --> 00:12:51,980 but it wasn't shown to the world, 215 00:12:51,980 --> 00:12:57,060 so it was kept in small communities, done by people who knew about it for generations. 216 00:12:57,060 --> 00:13:01,540 This is a drink that was home-cooked by the peasantry, 217 00:13:01,540 --> 00:13:05,740 and now we're in this downtown Chihuahua bar, 218 00:13:05,740 --> 00:13:07,820 very hip, lots of young people. 219 00:13:07,820 --> 00:13:10,300 Is that the direction you think it's going? For sure. 220 00:13:10,300 --> 00:13:13,180 I think sotol and Chihuahua, they're opening to the world 221 00:13:13,180 --> 00:13:17,660 and I think it helps us understand that the new generations have something to bring to the table. 222 00:13:17,660 --> 00:13:22,860 Hopefully, we can show the world that this is a fun place to be, with a fun, spirited drink. 223 00:13:22,860 --> 00:13:26,660 'Juan Pablo might be keen for sotol to take off outside Chihuahua, 224 00:13:26,660 --> 00:13:30,660 'but at the moment it's still very much a local drink. 225 00:13:30,660 --> 00:13:33,340 'Unlike tequila and other popular spirits, 226 00:13:33,340 --> 00:13:35,420 'it isn't yet mass-produced. 227 00:13:35,420 --> 00:13:39,860 'It's made in small-scale distilleries out in the countryside. 228 00:13:41,020 --> 00:13:43,580 'Like this one, owned by Gerardo Ruelas, 229 00:13:43,580 --> 00:13:46,060 'who's showing me how it's done. 230 00:13:46,060 --> 00:13:50,300 'The inner core of the sotol plant is roasted for three days 231 00:13:50,300 --> 00:13:54,100 'and then crushed and left to ferment in the open air.' 232 00:13:56,980 --> 00:13:58,420 So it's all mushed up, 233 00:13:58,420 --> 00:14:01,380 it goes in here and this is where it gets fermented? 234 00:14:03,900 --> 00:14:06,580 Oh! Ed! Ed, come here! 235 00:14:06,580 --> 00:14:10,620 Can you put your mic to that and listen to that? BUBBLING 236 00:14:10,620 --> 00:14:14,380 You can hear it, can't you? That is so fermenting! HE LAUGHS 237 00:14:14,380 --> 00:14:17,820 Yes. All right, you can go now! Thank you! 238 00:14:17,820 --> 00:14:19,980 'The sotol is then distilled twice 239 00:14:19,980 --> 00:14:22,700 'and it's ready for sale. 240 00:14:22,700 --> 00:14:26,700 'Just like any spirit, there's all sorts of variations available. 241 00:14:26,700 --> 00:14:29,500 'But apparently, one of Geraldo's blends 242 00:14:29,500 --> 00:14:32,260 'contains an unusual ingredient.' 243 00:14:36,300 --> 00:14:38,940 This has got marijuana in it? Yes. 244 00:14:40,060 --> 00:14:42,100 'Of course, Geraldo's got permission 245 00:14:42,100 --> 00:14:45,540 'to use marijuana in his sotol production.' 246 00:14:45,540 --> 00:14:50,340 Presumably, you only have a very, very little bit of marijuana? 247 00:14:50,340 --> 00:14:51,740 Mm. 248 00:14:51,740 --> 00:14:53,660 That's marijuana? 249 00:14:53,660 --> 00:14:56,140 Look at that! It's a flipping brick! 250 00:14:56,140 --> 00:15:00,220 If I did this in England, I'd go down for about 150 years! 251 00:15:00,220 --> 00:15:04,380 Good Lord! Don't do it. Don't do it. It's not worth it. 252 00:15:06,020 --> 00:15:10,260 'After I've slept off the sotol, it's time to hit the road again. 253 00:15:10,260 --> 00:15:13,020 'But I'm going to struggle to find a train. 254 00:15:13,020 --> 00:15:16,940 'Although there are over 12,000 miles of tracks in Mexico, 255 00:15:16,940 --> 00:15:20,300 'the vast majority of the network is only used by freight. 256 00:15:20,300 --> 00:15:24,820 'Faced with crumbling infrastructure and declining passenger numbers, 257 00:15:24,820 --> 00:15:27,020 'a number of years ago 258 00:15:27,020 --> 00:15:31,180 'the government pulled the plug on almost all long-distance services.' 259 00:15:32,380 --> 00:15:37,180 I need to head off in that direction to get to the border with the US, 260 00:15:37,180 --> 00:15:40,060 but there is a little bit of a problem. 261 00:15:40,060 --> 00:15:42,780 20 years ago, I could've just jumped on the train 262 00:15:42,780 --> 00:15:44,540 and, bang!, I'd have been there. 263 00:15:44,540 --> 00:15:49,140 But now, El Chepe, the train that I took in order to get to Chihuahua, 264 00:15:49,140 --> 00:15:54,180 is the only long-distance passenger railway line left in the whole of Mexico, 265 00:15:54,180 --> 00:15:57,780 which makes filming a train-based television series 266 00:15:57,780 --> 00:16:01,380 just a little bit of a challenge, doesn't it? 267 00:16:01,380 --> 00:16:06,540 'Especially given pretty much the entire route to my next stop is through this, 268 00:16:06,540 --> 00:16:08,740 'the Chihuahuan Desert. 269 00:16:08,740 --> 00:16:11,820 'It's the second largest desert in North America 270 00:16:11,820 --> 00:16:14,780 'and these are the Samalayuca Dunes. 271 00:16:14,780 --> 00:16:19,060 'It's a dry, unrelenting, lifeless place, 272 00:16:19,060 --> 00:16:21,940 'and I'm really struggling.' 273 00:16:21,940 --> 00:16:25,700 HE PANTS Until the railways and the roads came, 274 00:16:25,700 --> 00:16:30,420 these dunes were a massive barrier for anyone 275 00:16:30,420 --> 00:16:33,580 who wanted to travel from the south to the north. 276 00:16:33,580 --> 00:16:35,780 And you can see why. 277 00:16:35,780 --> 00:16:38,860 There's no-one around at all. There's no water. 278 00:16:38,860 --> 00:16:43,220 Just sand and sand and more sand. 279 00:16:44,780 --> 00:16:46,900 OK, I think we got it there. 280 00:16:46,900 --> 00:16:51,100 Which car am I in? 'Oh, come on, I'm not actually going to trek across the desert, am I?' 281 00:16:51,100 --> 00:16:54,420 ROCK MUSIC 282 00:16:55,660 --> 00:16:58,100 'I need to get to the city of Juarez, 283 00:16:58,100 --> 00:17:02,860 'so to make it across part of this 140,000-square-mile desert, 284 00:17:02,860 --> 00:17:05,180 'I'm hitching a ride with Quique Chavez.' 285 00:17:05,180 --> 00:17:08,300 It seems like this is a lot of fun. 286 00:17:08,300 --> 00:17:10,500 It is a lot of fun! How long have you been doing it? 287 00:17:10,500 --> 00:17:13,500 For 30 years. 30 years? Uh-huh. 288 00:17:13,500 --> 00:17:15,740 And I'm here every single time I can. 289 00:17:15,740 --> 00:17:19,780 'He runs 4x4 tours for some of the growing number of tourists 290 00:17:19,780 --> 00:17:22,700 'and extreme sport enthusiasts 291 00:17:22,700 --> 00:17:25,740 'attracted to this dramatic landscape.' 292 00:17:25,740 --> 00:17:28,220 You're going to have a chance to drive my car. 293 00:17:28,220 --> 00:17:30,900 You're going to let me have a chance? Oh, wow! 294 00:17:30,900 --> 00:17:36,940 Suppose I roll the car? I don't care. You're Mr Sir Tony Robinson! 295 00:17:36,940 --> 00:17:39,140 You can do whatever you want here in Mexico! 296 00:17:39,140 --> 00:17:42,220 'He might feel differently in a minute.' 297 00:17:42,220 --> 00:17:44,180 Partner! 298 00:17:46,380 --> 00:17:48,220 Let's hear it. ENGINE REVS 299 00:17:48,220 --> 00:17:50,980 Oh! What a gorgeous noise. 300 00:17:52,020 --> 00:17:54,860 Here we go. Uh-huh. 301 00:17:54,860 --> 00:17:57,500 I can hardly see over the windscreen 302 00:17:57,500 --> 00:18:01,700 because I'm so little and it's so far back! 303 00:18:01,700 --> 00:18:04,100 Whoa! Here we go! 304 00:18:04,100 --> 00:18:06,300 Oh, Jesus! 305 00:18:06,300 --> 00:18:07,900 Here we go. Here we go! 306 00:18:07,900 --> 00:18:10,300 Waaay! Oh! 307 00:18:11,420 --> 00:18:15,220 Follow this, this, right here, and then go... 308 00:18:15,220 --> 00:18:18,980 OK, turn right. Turn right. Right, right. 309 00:18:18,980 --> 00:18:20,780 Hey! Turn it! THUDDING 310 00:18:22,020 --> 00:18:25,060 Oh! It was to the right. It was to the right. 311 00:18:27,500 --> 00:18:30,860 'I've survived the dunes and made it to Juarez. 312 00:18:30,860 --> 00:18:33,260 'It's my last stop in Mexico 313 00:18:33,260 --> 00:18:36,060 'but it's right up against the border. 314 00:18:36,060 --> 00:18:41,020 'In fact, Juarez is part of the world's biggest bi-national neighbourhood. 315 00:18:41,020 --> 00:18:46,820 'A combined population of 2.5 million Mexicans and Americans live side-by-side, 316 00:18:46,820 --> 00:18:50,540 'here and next door in the US city of El Paso. 317 00:18:50,540 --> 00:18:56,580 'But for people on this side of the fence, life can be a struggle.' 318 00:18:56,580 --> 00:18:59,780 This is a city that's had more than its share of troubles. 319 00:18:59,780 --> 00:19:02,700 It was once known as the murder capital of the world 320 00:19:02,700 --> 00:19:05,860 because of its record-breaking homicide rate. 321 00:19:05,860 --> 00:19:09,860 In one year, nearly 4,000 people were murdered 322 00:19:09,860 --> 00:19:11,660 because of the cartels 323 00:19:11,660 --> 00:19:16,540 trying to get control of the lucrative drugs trade to the US. 324 00:19:16,540 --> 00:19:19,540 'At the peak of the violence in 2010, 325 00:19:19,540 --> 00:19:22,940 'the murder rate here was higher than in Baghdad. 326 00:19:22,940 --> 00:19:25,580 'Thankfully, crime has now fallen. 327 00:19:25,580 --> 00:19:28,580 'But Juarez still has to deal with being alongside 328 00:19:28,740 --> 00:19:31,580 'one of the most notorious borders in the world, 329 00:19:31,580 --> 00:19:35,940 'the 2,000-mile boundary between Mexico and the US.' 330 00:19:35,940 --> 00:19:39,260 This is the border right here. I'm in Juarez. 331 00:19:39,260 --> 00:19:44,140 Over there, you can see the buildings of El Paso. 332 00:19:44,140 --> 00:19:46,740 You can cross this bridge. 333 00:19:46,740 --> 00:19:50,580 That's the actual crossing point there. 334 00:19:50,580 --> 00:19:54,620 You can see the Mexican flags and the US flags. 335 00:19:54,620 --> 00:19:57,740 Down here is the railway. Sadly, though, 336 00:19:57,740 --> 00:20:00,100 it's only for freight nowadays. 337 00:20:00,100 --> 00:20:02,980 The passenger line's closed. WHIRRING OVERHEAD 338 00:20:02,980 --> 00:20:04,380 Can you hear that? 339 00:20:04,380 --> 00:20:07,420 That's the border control. 340 00:20:07,420 --> 00:20:10,820 'There's been a border crossing here for 170 years, 341 00:20:10,820 --> 00:20:14,100 'but recently it's taken on a new significance. 342 00:20:14,100 --> 00:20:17,020 'President Trump has made it harder to get across. 343 00:20:17,020 --> 00:20:21,780 'He says that the US needs to stop illegal immigrants 344 00:20:21,780 --> 00:20:23,420 'arriving from Mexico. 345 00:20:23,420 --> 00:20:25,940 'I want to get beyond the headlines. 346 00:20:25,940 --> 00:20:28,900 'So before I make my own crossing, I'm going to meet some locals 347 00:20:28,900 --> 00:20:32,060 'who found their own way to bring a bit of peace 348 00:20:32,060 --> 00:20:35,020 'to this much-maligned part of the world. 349 00:20:37,620 --> 00:20:40,260 'YS Yoga run regular classes 350 00:20:40,260 --> 00:20:42,060 'right next to the border. 351 00:20:43,420 --> 00:20:49,700 'The group's founders say the aim is to demonstrate the need for harmony between the two nations 352 00:20:49,700 --> 00:20:52,900 'and its hope for a world without walls. 353 00:20:54,620 --> 00:20:56,900 MAN SPEAKS SPANISH 354 00:20:57,580 --> 00:21:00,460 ALL: Omm... 355 00:21:03,060 --> 00:21:05,380 'For an old hippy like me, 356 00:21:05,380 --> 00:21:09,220 'this is just what the doctor ordered. 357 00:21:10,260 --> 00:21:13,420 'But I want to know what these people get out of it.' 358 00:21:14,580 --> 00:21:17,060 It's always a pleasure, 359 00:21:17,060 --> 00:21:20,460 it's always moving for everyone. 360 00:21:20,460 --> 00:21:22,780 It is moving, isn't it? Why is it so moving? 361 00:21:22,780 --> 00:21:24,860 Why did both you and I feel that? 362 00:21:24,860 --> 00:21:29,500 Maybe because it's a difficult time for everyone here. Yes. 363 00:21:29,500 --> 00:21:33,420 We come in peace and, basically, we are the same, you know? 364 00:21:33,420 --> 00:21:36,340 We love our family, we love our friends, 365 00:21:36,340 --> 00:21:39,780 we like to eat food and enjoy... 366 00:21:39,780 --> 00:21:42,580 You certainly do that one! THEY LAUGH 367 00:21:43,700 --> 00:21:48,900 The world think here in Juarez it's just murder and violence. 368 00:21:48,900 --> 00:21:50,340 It's not true. 369 00:21:50,340 --> 00:21:55,420 It's great for me to come here, to a place which I thought was just very scary, 370 00:21:55,420 --> 00:21:59,660 and to find ordinary working people 371 00:21:59,660 --> 00:22:03,460 who have such a passion for their city and are so proud of it 372 00:22:03,460 --> 00:22:07,660 and just want to go like that... at the border! 373 00:22:07,660 --> 00:22:09,340 Yeah, yeah! I thank you 374 00:22:09,340 --> 00:22:12,020 and I really appreciate that. Thank you. 375 00:22:12,020 --> 00:22:15,220 Thank you. Thank you very much. Thank you. 376 00:22:15,220 --> 00:22:19,660 'These people have really helped me see another side of Mexico, 377 00:22:19,660 --> 00:22:21,900 'not the one that normally makes the news. 378 00:22:21,900 --> 00:22:25,780 'They're taking a stand, just in the most peaceful way possible.' 379 00:22:25,780 --> 00:22:27,660 I feel a bit emotional about this. 380 00:22:27,660 --> 00:22:30,540 I think it's one of the loveliest things I've ever seen. 381 00:22:30,540 --> 00:22:34,820 I don't want to be all hippy-dippy. I know that doing a yoga class 382 00:22:34,820 --> 00:22:39,780 in front of that ghastly metal and barbed wire obscenity isn't going to make it fall down, 383 00:22:39,780 --> 00:22:42,620 but there's something about the assertion of hope, 384 00:22:42,620 --> 00:22:47,020 the balance, the clarity, 385 00:22:47,020 --> 00:22:49,540 the meditation on offer here 386 00:22:49,540 --> 00:22:52,460 that gives you a bit of hope 387 00:22:52,460 --> 00:22:54,980 in quite difficult times. 388 00:22:58,060 --> 00:23:01,820 'Coming up, I make it to the US of A, 389 00:23:01,820 --> 00:23:05,300 'where I rejoice in a retro piece of public transport...' 390 00:23:05,300 --> 00:23:07,900 It's not just about transportation, is it? 391 00:23:07,900 --> 00:23:11,420 This is about the culture of El Paso. 392 00:23:11,420 --> 00:23:13,660 '..wrestle with a Hispanic hobby 393 00:23:13,660 --> 00:23:16,100 'and come out fighting.' 394 00:23:16,100 --> 00:23:19,300 I'm actually 30 years older than your father 395 00:23:19,300 --> 00:23:22,550 and I still whipped your ass! ALL: Ohh! 396 00:23:25,350 --> 00:23:28,190 JOLLY MUSIC 397 00:23:28,190 --> 00:23:32,470 'I'm halfway through my journey from Mexico to Los Angeles. 398 00:23:32,470 --> 00:23:37,790 'After more than 500 miles, I've crossed into the United States and El Paso 399 00:23:37,790 --> 00:23:41,430 'via its Mexican sister-city Juarez.' 400 00:23:42,830 --> 00:23:46,270 Well, I finally managed to make it across the border 401 00:23:46,270 --> 00:23:49,670 and I'm now in the US of A. 402 00:23:49,670 --> 00:23:52,230 We weren't allowed to film the actual crossing point, 403 00:23:52,230 --> 00:23:54,630 security is really, really tight, 404 00:23:54,630 --> 00:23:59,510 but, quite frankly, I don't think you'd have been that interested in watching me queue for 2.5 hours. 405 00:24:04,790 --> 00:24:09,510 'Life here is more than two times more expensive, 406 00:24:09,510 --> 00:24:11,710 'and in stark contrast to Juarez, 407 00:24:11,710 --> 00:24:16,390 'the Texan town has been named one of the safest cities in the US 408 00:24:16,390 --> 00:24:21,350 'and the strict border controls help to keep the cities firmly divided. 409 00:24:21,350 --> 00:24:25,310 'Sadly, there's no longer any passenger rail services that connect them. 410 00:24:25,310 --> 00:24:30,110 'But on the outskirts of town, there's evidence that crossing between Mexico and the US 411 00:24:30,110 --> 00:24:32,630 'didn't always used to be such an ordeal.' 412 00:24:33,830 --> 00:24:38,390 Look at these, tucked away at the back of the bus depot. 413 00:24:38,390 --> 00:24:40,550 Three old hulks. 414 00:24:40,550 --> 00:24:42,110 Trams. 415 00:24:42,110 --> 00:24:45,390 What the Americans call streetcars. 416 00:24:45,390 --> 00:24:49,590 And they didn't just pootle around in El Paso. 417 00:24:49,590 --> 00:24:51,510 These were international vehicles. 418 00:24:51,510 --> 00:24:55,070 They crossed the border every day into Juarez 419 00:24:55,070 --> 00:24:56,710 and then came back again. 420 00:24:58,870 --> 00:25:00,670 'At their peak in the 1960s, 421 00:25:00,670 --> 00:25:05,150 'the streetcars transported hundreds of thousands of people each year 422 00:25:05,150 --> 00:25:07,350 'between the US and Mexico, 423 00:25:07,350 --> 00:25:10,430 'until the service was abruptly cancelled.' 424 00:25:11,830 --> 00:25:14,270 But that was in 1973, 425 00:25:14,270 --> 00:25:16,470 and now, a few months ago, 426 00:25:16,470 --> 00:25:19,270 a few of these beautiful retro machines 427 00:25:19,270 --> 00:25:21,790 started riding the roads again. 428 00:25:22,790 --> 00:25:24,750 'In 2015, 429 00:25:24,750 --> 00:25:27,350 'a $97 million project 430 00:25:27,350 --> 00:25:29,630 'began construction on five miles of track 431 00:25:29,630 --> 00:25:32,390 'and 27 new stops. 432 00:25:32,390 --> 00:25:35,470 'Six of the old streetcars were refurbished 433 00:25:35,470 --> 00:25:38,350 'and now service downtown El Paso. 434 00:25:38,350 --> 00:25:40,910 'Local politician Peter Svarzbein 435 00:25:40,910 --> 00:25:44,030 'was one of the residents who campaigned for their return. 436 00:25:44,030 --> 00:25:48,070 'He's still passionate about what they symbolise to his city.' 437 00:25:48,070 --> 00:25:53,150 It's not just about transportation, is it? This is about the culture of El Paso. 438 00:25:53,150 --> 00:25:55,190 And celebrating and bringing back something 439 00:25:55,190 --> 00:25:57,870 that was part of the heart and soul of this community. 440 00:25:57,870 --> 00:25:59,590 But, but, but, but, but... 441 00:25:59,590 --> 00:26:02,550 ..it still doesn't go to Juarez any more. 442 00:26:02,550 --> 00:26:04,150 Not yet. It doesn't cross the border. 443 00:26:04,150 --> 00:26:07,310 Not yet. It reaches the border and just bounces back! 444 00:26:07,310 --> 00:26:11,310 But you know, the thing about it is that it has now pushed that conversation about 445 00:26:11,310 --> 00:26:15,670 not if we should go back, but when do we go back into Mexico? Yeah. 446 00:26:15,670 --> 00:26:19,070 You're visiting here, and the thing that somebody may not get 447 00:26:19,070 --> 00:26:21,390 is that you have families that cross every day, 448 00:26:21,390 --> 00:26:24,070 business students that cross every day. 449 00:26:24,070 --> 00:26:28,750 There's a million different reasons that we cross both south and north and north and south. 450 00:26:28,750 --> 00:26:32,510 'Illicit immigration may make the headlines, 451 00:26:32,510 --> 00:26:37,870 'but more than 50,000 people cross the border legally here each day. 452 00:26:37,870 --> 00:26:39,590 'Kids from Juarez 453 00:26:39,590 --> 00:26:42,790 'cross to El Paso to go to US schools, 454 00:26:42,790 --> 00:26:46,990 'and Americans travel to Juarez to look for a bargain 455 00:26:46,990 --> 00:26:49,470 'in the cheaper Mexican shops.' 456 00:26:49,470 --> 00:26:51,550 So when we look at this university, 457 00:26:51,550 --> 00:26:54,870 you have close to a third of the 30,000 students here 458 00:26:54,870 --> 00:26:58,270 crossing from Mexico, they're Mexican national students, 459 00:26:58,270 --> 00:27:00,510 that are coming to study here. 460 00:27:00,510 --> 00:27:03,270 So, how do we go and get those people over safe and efficiently? 461 00:27:03,270 --> 00:27:05,350 Everyone else I've spoken to 462 00:27:05,350 --> 00:27:09,990 talks about the border as just something awful and bleak and black and horrible, 463 00:27:09,990 --> 00:27:11,870 which, frankly, it is, 464 00:27:11,870 --> 00:27:14,510 but you're saying, "Hey, it's an opportunity!" 465 00:27:14,510 --> 00:27:16,830 The border is a place where both of us come together. 466 00:27:16,830 --> 00:27:21,350 The border isn't something that separates us, the border is something that brings us together. 467 00:27:21,350 --> 00:27:24,670 That's what this trolley used to help to do so many decades, 468 00:27:24,670 --> 00:27:26,510 it helped people get across. 469 00:27:28,110 --> 00:27:31,430 'Mexico and the US are much more connected 470 00:27:31,430 --> 00:27:34,430 'than they might first appear to be. 471 00:27:37,070 --> 00:27:42,430 'And maybe that's not so surprising when you consider their history.' 472 00:27:42,430 --> 00:27:45,510 If I'd been standing here 200 years ago, 473 00:27:45,510 --> 00:27:48,750 I wouldn't have been in the US, I'd have been in Mexico. 474 00:27:48,750 --> 00:27:53,310 I'd have had to have walked a few hundred miles in that direction before I came to the border. 475 00:27:53,310 --> 00:27:57,790 But all that changed dramatically in the middle of the 19th century. 476 00:27:57,790 --> 00:28:02,750 'When a war broke out between the US and Mexico in 1846, 477 00:28:02,750 --> 00:28:05,270 'it was over whether the Americans had the right 478 00:28:05,270 --> 00:28:09,190 'to annex Texas from the Mexicans. 479 00:28:09,190 --> 00:28:14,270 'But it didn't take long for the US to decisively defeat its southern neighbour. 480 00:28:14,270 --> 00:28:16,470 'They didn't stop there, though. 481 00:28:16,470 --> 00:28:21,910 'Soon, American troops had marched all the way to Mexican-California, 482 00:28:21,910 --> 00:28:25,710 'giving the US the boundaries we know today.' 483 00:28:25,710 --> 00:28:30,270 Mexico had to hand over huge swathes of land. 484 00:28:30,270 --> 00:28:34,710 500,000 square miles were added to the US, 485 00:28:34,710 --> 00:28:38,030 with the Rio Grande as the new southern border. 486 00:28:39,230 --> 00:28:43,310 'Today, 80 percent of El Paso's population is Hispanic. 487 00:28:43,310 --> 00:28:47,590 'There's a colourful Latino culture on display in the city. 488 00:28:47,590 --> 00:28:51,230 'These guys are practising lucha libre, 489 00:28:51,230 --> 00:28:55,110 'an icon of Mexican pop culture.' 490 00:28:57,390 --> 00:28:59,750 What does lucha libre mean? 491 00:28:59,750 --> 00:29:02,470 It means pro-wrestling or freestyle. 492 00:29:02,470 --> 00:29:06,070 Why? Because you can use chairs, you can use tables, 493 00:29:06,070 --> 00:29:08,670 you can use your fist, your hand, knees. 494 00:29:08,670 --> 00:29:11,790 There's no rules for lucha libre. 495 00:29:11,790 --> 00:29:13,670 'Andreas Ontiveros and his brothers 496 00:29:13,670 --> 00:29:19,070 'started their own lucha libre show in El Paso in 2012.' 497 00:29:19,070 --> 00:29:22,230 So when you get into the ring with another guy, 498 00:29:22,230 --> 00:29:23,990 do you know who's going to win? 499 00:29:23,990 --> 00:29:27,030 Actually, to be honest, yes. 500 00:29:27,030 --> 00:29:28,710 It's predetermined. 501 00:29:28,710 --> 00:29:30,910 It doesn't matter, though! It's a show! It is! 502 00:29:30,910 --> 00:29:33,950 And most of all, a lot of guys are going to hate me for this, 503 00:29:33,950 --> 00:29:37,070 but it is predetermined because it is acting. 504 00:29:37,070 --> 00:29:40,430 And will you always be the same character every week? 505 00:29:40,430 --> 00:29:42,590 I have one character and I always do that character. 506 00:29:42,590 --> 00:29:45,510 'Lucha libre is half martial arts 507 00:29:45,510 --> 00:29:47,670 'and half theatrical performance. 508 00:29:47,670 --> 00:29:49,510 'It's highly stylised, 509 00:29:49,510 --> 00:29:53,750 'involving choreographed battles between goodies and baddies. 510 00:29:53,750 --> 00:29:58,350 'The costumes and masks are crucial to getting into character.' 511 00:30:02,110 --> 00:30:06,310 'Time to embrace my secret alter ego... 512 00:30:06,310 --> 00:30:08,550 ROUSING MUSIC 513 00:30:09,550 --> 00:30:12,030 '..El Train Man.' 514 00:30:17,710 --> 00:30:20,950 I can't see a thing in this bloody mask! 515 00:30:20,950 --> 00:30:22,790 CHEERING 516 00:30:22,790 --> 00:30:25,870 Hey, Tony! Why don't you come in? 517 00:30:25,870 --> 00:30:28,110 We won't hurt you, OK? 518 00:30:28,110 --> 00:30:30,430 Do a flip! Do a flip! There you go! 519 00:30:30,430 --> 00:30:32,350 Do you want to become a luchador? 520 00:30:32,350 --> 00:30:33,910 I do. I do. All right. 521 00:30:33,910 --> 00:30:36,150 Let me teach you a move, OK? Yeah. 522 00:30:36,150 --> 00:30:38,070 We call this move "la caponesa". 523 00:30:38,070 --> 00:30:40,550 So, you're going to be in front of your opponent 524 00:30:40,550 --> 00:30:44,270 and you're going to grab him from the shoulder blades. Yeah. 525 00:30:44,270 --> 00:30:46,430 You're going to push him as hard as you can this side. 526 00:30:46,430 --> 00:30:48,350 So it's going to look like this... 527 00:30:48,350 --> 00:30:50,830 HE GRUNTS 528 00:30:50,830 --> 00:30:53,190 Give it a try, OK? 529 00:30:53,190 --> 00:30:55,350 Shoulder blade... Shoulder. ..push him. 530 00:30:55,350 --> 00:30:57,950 Ready? Push him! And go. Nice. 531 00:30:57,950 --> 00:30:59,510 Good job. 532 00:30:59,510 --> 00:31:02,030 One more time. 533 00:31:04,150 --> 00:31:08,190 Good job, Tony! You have it! I do have it! Let's go! 534 00:31:08,190 --> 00:31:11,470 DRAMATIC MUSIC Let's go! 535 00:31:11,470 --> 00:31:13,830 THEY GRUNT 536 00:31:13,830 --> 00:31:15,750 Come on! 537 00:31:15,750 --> 00:31:17,390 Agh! 538 00:31:17,390 --> 00:31:19,390 SHOUTING & GRUNTING 539 00:31:21,590 --> 00:31:26,070 Nobody messes with an English wrestler! 540 00:31:26,070 --> 00:31:28,550 I beat you all! Good job, Tony. Thank you. 541 00:31:28,550 --> 00:31:29,750 I want you to know, 542 00:31:29,750 --> 00:31:33,150 I'm actually 30 years older than your father 543 00:31:33,150 --> 00:31:36,750 and I still whipped your ass! ALL: Ohh! 544 00:31:36,750 --> 00:31:38,950 Ah, get out of here! 545 00:31:38,950 --> 00:31:43,270 'I'm moving on towards my final destination.' 546 00:31:44,710 --> 00:31:47,950 This is El Paso Union Station. 547 00:31:48,990 --> 00:31:53,830 As you can see, it's pretty grand and fairly wonderful. 548 00:31:53,830 --> 00:31:59,910 That's because, back in the day, it was America's only international railway station. 549 00:31:59,910 --> 00:32:03,950 'At the turn of the century, there were so many stations in El Paso, 550 00:32:03,950 --> 00:32:06,430 'it was confusing passengers. 551 00:32:06,430 --> 00:32:09,390 'So the railway companies got together to build this large one 552 00:32:09,390 --> 00:32:12,590 'to serve all their different trains, hence the name. 553 00:32:12,590 --> 00:32:14,270 'But sadly today, 554 00:32:14,270 --> 00:32:17,350 'there's only one train every couple of days.' 555 00:32:17,350 --> 00:32:20,070 Could I have a one-way ticket to LA, please? Yes. 556 00:32:20,070 --> 00:32:22,350 Thank you. 557 00:32:22,350 --> 00:32:24,950 Thanks a lot. Bye. 558 00:32:25,870 --> 00:32:29,070 'This is the Sunset Limited. 559 00:32:29,070 --> 00:32:33,390 'It's already travelled more than 1,000 miles from New Orleans 560 00:32:33,390 --> 00:32:37,150 'and it's heading for my last stop, Los Angeles. 561 00:32:45,430 --> 00:32:50,510 'Coming up, I fall in love with the busiest train terminus in the Western US...' 562 00:32:50,510 --> 00:32:53,270 It's one of the most beautiful railway stations I've ever seen. 563 00:32:53,270 --> 00:32:56,790 '..and clown around with some unusual entertainers.' 564 00:32:56,790 --> 00:32:59,230 This is such amazing stagecraft. 565 00:32:59,230 --> 00:33:01,110 It's so electric! 566 00:33:08,580 --> 00:33:13,860 'I'm on the last leg of my railway odyssey through Mexico and the US. 567 00:33:13,860 --> 00:33:18,060 'It's an 800-mile journey on Amtrak's Sunset Limited, 568 00:33:18,060 --> 00:33:20,260 'across New Mexico and Arizona, 569 00:33:20,260 --> 00:33:22,940 'to reach California. 570 00:33:22,940 --> 00:33:27,460 'When America gained this huge chunk of land in the mid-19th century, 571 00:33:27,460 --> 00:33:30,860 'it was the railroads that brought immigrants to settle here 572 00:33:30,860 --> 00:33:33,340 'and helped the now vast United States 573 00:33:33,340 --> 00:33:35,940 'to feel like one country. 574 00:33:35,940 --> 00:33:38,420 'After this railway line was built in the 1880s, 575 00:33:38,420 --> 00:33:40,780 'a journey that used to take weeks 576 00:33:40,780 --> 00:33:43,340 'could be done in a matter of days. 577 00:33:43,340 --> 00:33:46,100 'But things haven't moved on much since then 578 00:33:46,100 --> 00:33:51,740 'and it still takes 16 hours to reach my final destination - Los Angeles.' 579 00:33:51,740 --> 00:33:53,740 GLITZY MUSIC 580 00:33:55,740 --> 00:33:58,020 Look at this! 581 00:33:58,020 --> 00:33:59,700 'LA's Union Station 582 00:33:59,700 --> 00:34:02,660 'is the biggest terminus in the Western US, 583 00:34:02,660 --> 00:34:06,660 'serving over 100,000 passengers each day, 584 00:34:06,660 --> 00:34:09,740 'making it nearly as busy as London Paddington.' 585 00:34:09,740 --> 00:34:13,620 It's one of the most beautiful railway stations I've ever seen. 586 00:34:13,620 --> 00:34:16,300 'Built relatively late in 1939, 587 00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:20,660 'it's become known as the Last of the Great Railway Stations.' 588 00:34:20,660 --> 00:34:24,900 It was designed as an expression of the Californian lifestyle 589 00:34:24,900 --> 00:34:27,700 and they really went to town, didn't they? 590 00:34:27,700 --> 00:34:31,980 When it was first opened, there was a star-studded three-day celebration 591 00:34:31,980 --> 00:34:34,420 attended by half a million people. 592 00:34:34,420 --> 00:34:37,380 Only in LA! 593 00:34:37,380 --> 00:34:41,140 'In the previous two decades, Los Angeles had doubled in size, 594 00:34:41,140 --> 00:34:44,220 'transforming as Hollywood boomed 595 00:34:44,220 --> 00:34:47,660 'and the city became the entertainment capital of the world. 596 00:34:47,660 --> 00:34:50,620 'It's now the second largest city in the US 597 00:34:50,620 --> 00:34:53,780 'and 50 million tourists, like me, visit each year, 598 00:34:53,780 --> 00:34:58,500 'in search of some of that old movie-star magic. 599 00:34:58,500 --> 00:35:02,300 'From the boutiques of Beverly Hills to the sun-soaked beaches of Malibu, 600 00:35:02,300 --> 00:35:07,380 'LA remains the home of A-list attractions.' 601 00:35:07,380 --> 00:35:10,780 I've only just arrived here and what's the first thing I see? 602 00:35:10,780 --> 00:35:13,340 They're making a movie! 603 00:35:13,340 --> 00:35:15,820 'And thanks to all those Hollywood trendsetters, 604 00:35:15,820 --> 00:35:18,980 'this is a place that's always at the forefront 605 00:35:18,980 --> 00:35:22,060 'of the newest fashions and fads. 606 00:35:22,060 --> 00:35:26,300 'I'm going to grab some of this California cool for myself. And I'm hungry! 607 00:35:26,300 --> 00:35:29,020 'So I've come to Grand Central Market, 608 00:35:29,020 --> 00:35:31,220 'a very trendy food hall.' 609 00:35:31,220 --> 00:35:33,460 We're going to have Jackie make you an old school. 610 00:35:33,460 --> 00:35:39,780 'I'm having a hipster take on a peanut butter and jelly - or jam to you and me - sandwich. 611 00:35:39,780 --> 00:35:45,260 'Payvand Salehi's business makes these classic American sarnies with an LA twist, 612 00:35:45,260 --> 00:35:49,820 'offering quirky combinations of different nut and fruit fillings.' 613 00:35:49,820 --> 00:35:53,700 Jackie, will you make the Elvis, please? 614 00:35:53,700 --> 00:35:56,860 Do you like bananas, sir? What did you just ask her to make? 615 00:35:56,860 --> 00:35:58,620 The Elvis. The Elvis! 616 00:35:58,620 --> 00:36:01,180 Now, the Elvis is made with peanut butter, 617 00:36:01,180 --> 00:36:04,700 but we make our own banana jam and a house-made bacon. 618 00:36:04,700 --> 00:36:07,500 Here's the catch. The bacon has no pig in it. 619 00:36:07,500 --> 00:36:09,140 It's a plant-based bacon, 620 00:36:09,140 --> 00:36:11,500 made with rice paper. 621 00:36:11,500 --> 00:36:14,460 'This one's based on Elvis's favourite meal, 622 00:36:14,460 --> 00:36:17,780 'but in true LA health-food fashion, it's a vegan take. 623 00:36:17,780 --> 00:36:21,980 'They only use organic and plant-based ingredients.' 624 00:36:21,980 --> 00:36:24,980 So here's the Elvis. Here you go. 625 00:36:24,980 --> 00:36:27,500 Here we go. 626 00:36:29,700 --> 00:36:31,860 It's crunchy from the bacon, 627 00:36:31,860 --> 00:36:34,220 it's very sweet from the banana. 628 00:36:34,220 --> 00:36:36,220 It's got the peanut butter, too. 629 00:36:36,220 --> 00:36:38,060 It's very nice. 630 00:36:38,060 --> 00:36:40,460 I would sing Love Me Tender right now 631 00:36:40,460 --> 00:36:43,820 but we can't afford it because we haven't got the rights to the music! 632 00:36:46,780 --> 00:36:49,060 'Riding on rather a large sugar high, 633 00:36:49,060 --> 00:36:51,380 'I'm ready to explore some more. 634 00:36:51,380 --> 00:36:55,300 'What better way to do it than by hopping on a train? 635 00:36:55,300 --> 00:36:58,460 'The traffic in LA is notoriously awful 636 00:36:58,460 --> 00:37:01,860 'and commuters here spend an average of 128 hours each year 637 00:37:01,860 --> 00:37:04,660 'stuck in their cars. 638 00:37:04,660 --> 00:37:08,300 'This extension to one of the metro lines was opened a few years ago 639 00:37:08,300 --> 00:37:10,500 'to try and offer them an alternative.' 640 00:37:10,500 --> 00:37:12,180 So today, 641 00:37:12,180 --> 00:37:15,700 Angelenos can get on a train and go straight down to the beach 642 00:37:15,700 --> 00:37:18,180 for the first time in a generation. 643 00:37:18,180 --> 00:37:23,460 'In fact, they're expanding the metro network in all directions in LA. 644 00:37:27,380 --> 00:37:31,220 'But the beach will have to wait because now I'm heading to South LA, 645 00:37:31,220 --> 00:37:34,740 'a part of the city off the tourist trail. 646 00:37:34,740 --> 00:37:38,980 'This is an area that's been infamous for its gang culture, 647 00:37:38,980 --> 00:37:41,580 'and local Jesse Warren knows too well 648 00:37:41,580 --> 00:37:43,620 'the dangers that can bring.' 649 00:37:43,620 --> 00:37:47,700 Are there still a lot of gang issues in LA now? Definitely. Definitely. 650 00:37:47,700 --> 00:37:51,100 I had a couple of friends shot, killed. 651 00:37:51,100 --> 00:37:53,460 I almost got shot just hanging out one day 652 00:37:53,460 --> 00:37:55,980 and that kinda was a turning point in my life. 653 00:37:55,980 --> 00:37:58,780 Man, you've got to find better, you've got to do better. 654 00:37:58,780 --> 00:38:02,740 'Jesse's turning point took him in an unlikely new direction.' 655 00:38:02,740 --> 00:38:06,180 So now you're becoming your other self. 656 00:38:06,180 --> 00:38:09,780 The one, the only, if there's another he's a phony, I'm becoming... 657 00:38:09,780 --> 00:38:12,420 ..Roc'co Tha Clown. 658 00:38:12,420 --> 00:38:15,580 'Jesse is now a professional clown 659 00:38:15,580 --> 00:38:17,780 'but with a difference.' We are hip-hop clowns. 660 00:38:17,780 --> 00:38:20,460 We bring that energy, that hip-hop, that vibe, 661 00:38:20,460 --> 00:38:24,740 the dancing, we bring that all to whatever occasion you're having. 662 00:38:24,740 --> 00:38:28,900 The joy, the laughter, the jokes, the magic, the balloons, the face-painting. 663 00:38:29,900 --> 00:38:34,860 'Jesse leads 20 young dancers in his League of Clowns, 664 00:38:34,860 --> 00:38:39,460 'whose performance centres around a special type of LA street dance. 665 00:38:39,460 --> 00:38:42,140 'Hired to entertain at parties, 666 00:38:42,140 --> 00:38:45,140 'they're one of several clowning troupes working in LA today.' 667 00:38:45,140 --> 00:38:47,900 You know what I love about what you do so much? 668 00:38:47,900 --> 00:38:52,820 You're a clown at children's parties! It's crazy, man! 669 00:38:52,820 --> 00:38:56,780 Out here in Los Angeles, California, I would definitely say it's one of the biggest things. 670 00:38:56,780 --> 00:39:00,340 A lot of kids love to dance out here, 671 00:39:00,340 --> 00:39:03,540 but they may not want to go do the ballerina, like... 672 00:39:03,540 --> 00:39:07,500 Sure. Yeah, they don't want to get into tights! The classical dancing! 673 00:39:07,500 --> 00:39:12,100 They hood, so they like to, you know, vibe and pop-lock and breakdance, 674 00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:14,860 so it's like, "OK, where do I go do that?" 675 00:39:14,860 --> 00:39:17,060 'As well as offering a creative outlet, 676 00:39:17,060 --> 00:39:20,900 'clowning has helped young locals avoid the gang culture.' 677 00:39:20,900 --> 00:39:22,820 How has clowning helped you? 678 00:39:22,820 --> 00:39:26,340 Oh, wow, clowning has changed my life tremendously. 679 00:39:26,340 --> 00:39:29,980 Out here in LA, most people wanna be looked at as "the man". 680 00:39:29,980 --> 00:39:34,260 A lot of people fall into the gang violence or into the hood mentality 681 00:39:34,260 --> 00:39:37,860 because you get the, "He from over there, man! Watch out because he don't play no games!" 682 00:39:37,860 --> 00:39:41,060 Now, on the clowning side, you get the same aspect - 683 00:39:41,060 --> 00:39:45,060 "He was doing this stuff, he was dancing and I seen him over here," 684 00:39:45,060 --> 00:39:48,140 so you get the same spotlight but now it's on a positive tip. 685 00:39:48,140 --> 00:39:50,700 LAID-BACK HIP-HOP MUSIC Let's go! 686 00:39:56,420 --> 00:39:58,620 It changed my life. 687 00:39:58,620 --> 00:40:02,460 I just thank God that I was able to become Roc'co Tha Clown! 688 00:40:04,140 --> 00:40:08,660 'A key part of a clowning experience is audience participation. 689 00:40:08,660 --> 00:40:10,900 'So I better join in!' 690 00:40:10,900 --> 00:40:12,620 SOULFUL HIP-HOP MUSIC 691 00:40:20,460 --> 00:40:23,460 All # Whoa! # 692 00:40:31,180 --> 00:40:32,580 Let go! Let go! 693 00:40:32,580 --> 00:40:33,980 Hey! 694 00:40:33,980 --> 00:40:36,580 Hey, hey! 695 00:40:36,580 --> 00:40:39,780 WHISTLES BLOW 696 00:40:39,780 --> 00:40:42,180 This is such amazing stagecraft. 697 00:40:42,180 --> 00:40:45,300 I love the way that they so enjoy what they're doing! 698 00:40:45,300 --> 00:40:48,180 They so enjoy supporting each other. 699 00:40:48,180 --> 00:40:52,740 There's a real feeling of comradeship out there. It's so electric! 700 00:40:52,740 --> 00:40:55,500 MUSIC & WHISTLES 701 00:41:14,380 --> 00:41:17,900 'I've loved my time in this corner of the States. 702 00:41:17,900 --> 00:41:20,900 'As the sun sets over the Pacific Ocean, 703 00:41:20,900 --> 00:41:23,820 'this seems the perfect place for it to come to an end.' 704 00:41:23,820 --> 00:41:27,500 I knew I'd be intrigued by El Paso 705 00:41:27,500 --> 00:41:30,700 and I was sure I'd enjoy LA 706 00:41:30,700 --> 00:41:35,100 because it's so edgy and weird and entertaining, 707 00:41:35,100 --> 00:41:37,340 but I was really surprised 708 00:41:37,340 --> 00:41:41,780 by how much I warmed to Mexico and the Mexicans. 709 00:41:41,780 --> 00:41:43,820 They often get such a bad press 710 00:41:43,820 --> 00:41:47,380 and yet I found them really courteous, really friendly, 711 00:41:47,380 --> 00:41:50,220 really charming. 712 00:41:51,620 --> 00:41:57,500 So that's it, from the mountains of Mexico to Venice Beach! 713 00:41:57,500 --> 00:42:00,180 Not a bad little old journey. 714 00:42:06,660 --> 00:42:10,260 'Next time, I continue my journey through North America, 715 00:42:10,260 --> 00:42:13,380 'where I find out what it takes to be a true Canadian...' 716 00:42:13,380 --> 00:42:16,500 Don't be nervous. I am nervous because I don't want to hurt you. 717 00:42:16,500 --> 00:42:20,420 '..I board one of the world's most luxurious trains...' Are you excited? You bet! 718 00:42:20,420 --> 00:42:23,460 '..which takes me to the famous Rocky Mountains...' 719 00:42:23,460 --> 00:42:27,460 This is the view that everyone hopes they'll see. Whoa! 720 00:42:27,460 --> 00:42:30,580 '..and swap my train for a plane...' This is beautiful up here, isn't it? 721 00:42:30,580 --> 00:42:34,780 '..to encounter Alaska's magnificent glaciers.' 60363

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