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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,802 --> 00:00:06,840 NARRATOR: On Canada's east coast, the world's highest tides 2 00:00:06,840 --> 00:00:12,112 move more than 100 billion tons of water. 3 00:00:12,112 --> 00:00:15,782 As the mighty Atlantic Ocean rises and falls. 4 00:00:19,253 --> 00:00:23,690 In just one day, more water will funnel through this bay than the 5 00:00:23,690 --> 00:00:30,130 combined discharge of all freshwater rivers on earth. 6 00:00:30,130 --> 00:00:33,233 PHILLIPS: t's always eroding away, it's always moving back and forth, 7 00:00:33,233 --> 00:00:34,568 it never stops. 8 00:00:34,568 --> 00:00:38,472 Just ceaseless tides continually reshaping the bay. 9 00:00:40,607 --> 00:00:43,744 NARRATOR: This is the Bay of Fundy. 10 00:00:48,315 --> 00:00:58,358 (♪♪♪) 11 00:00:58,358 --> 00:01:22,282 (♪♪♪) 12 00:01:29,423 --> 00:01:34,227 It's summer on the Bay of Fundy, and thousands of shorebirds 13 00:01:34,227 --> 00:01:39,166 have arrived to fuel up during their great migration south. 14 00:01:48,809 --> 00:01:54,548 As the tide rolls in to Fundy's coastal flatlands, 15 00:01:54,548 --> 00:01:59,386 tiny migrant birds, called semipalmated sandpipers, 16 00:01:59,386 --> 00:02:05,425 retreat to the shore, crowding on a sliver of beach. 17 00:02:08,362 --> 00:02:12,599 MORRIS-CORMIER: It's a unique scene on the shores because the beach, 18 00:02:12,599 --> 00:02:13,867 it looks like pebbles. 19 00:02:13,867 --> 00:02:16,837 But at high tide, it's possible you could be looking at a group 20 00:02:16,837 --> 00:02:20,140 of say 20,000 little semipalmated sandpipers 21 00:02:20,140 --> 00:02:22,175 all bunched together. 22 00:02:23,110 --> 00:02:29,783 NARRATOR: Subtle brown, grey, and white coloring camouflages the birds. 23 00:02:29,783 --> 00:02:34,321 Semipalmated sandpipers are long-distance travelers. 24 00:02:34,321 --> 00:02:37,624 The Bay of Fundy is the only stop these sandpipers 25 00:02:37,624 --> 00:02:43,630 will make before their 2,500-mile journey south. 26 00:02:43,630 --> 00:02:46,800 They arrive here from their breeding grounds In Alaska 27 00:02:46,800 --> 00:02:50,670 and in the Canadian sub-arctic having already flown a distance 28 00:02:50,670 --> 00:02:54,541 of more than 2,000 miles. 29 00:02:54,541 --> 00:02:57,778 They haven't slept for three days. 30 00:02:57,778 --> 00:03:00,180 MORRIS-CORMIER: Once the birds arrive from their breeding grounds 31 00:03:00,180 --> 00:03:03,450 on our shores here, they weigh about 20g. 32 00:03:03,450 --> 00:03:05,752 That's less than an ounce, 33 00:03:05,752 --> 00:03:11,124 so about the same weight of a big strawberry. 34 00:03:11,124 --> 00:03:16,696 NARRATOR: Young, small, and hungry, the birds will spend the 35 00:03:16,696 --> 00:03:23,503 next three weeks here restoring their depleted energy. 36 00:03:23,503 --> 00:03:26,673 They will fly for three days non-stop to reach their 37 00:03:26,673 --> 00:03:30,377 wintering grounds in South America. 38 00:03:30,377 --> 00:03:33,280 MORRIS-CORMIER: I thought about the last time I was on an airplane. 39 00:03:33,280 --> 00:03:35,682 And the flight took about, oh, two hours 40 00:03:35,682 --> 00:03:37,818 and I felt pretty tired at the end. 41 00:03:37,818 --> 00:03:41,221 And I actually complained and-- so I'm very inspired by these 42 00:03:41,221 --> 00:03:44,157 little semipalmated sandpipers, who manage, you know, 43 00:03:44,157 --> 00:03:48,095 weighing only 40g, and maybe being only 16 cm long, 44 00:03:48,095 --> 00:03:53,266 that they can fly all the way to South America. 45 00:03:53,266 --> 00:03:55,469 NARRATOR: The birds will need to double their weight 46 00:03:55,469 --> 00:03:59,372 before they set off on their journey to South America. 47 00:04:17,657 --> 00:04:20,260 The surging waters of the bay 48 00:04:20,260 --> 00:04:24,631 sustain some of the richest ecosystems on the planet. 49 00:04:27,467 --> 00:04:30,604 Twice a day, high tides kick up nutrients 50 00:04:30,604 --> 00:04:33,373 from the depths of the Atlantic 51 00:04:33,373 --> 00:04:38,678 that feed an abundance of marine life, like this humpback whale. 52 00:04:38,678 --> 00:04:45,285 While low tides reveal miles of ocean floor 53 00:04:45,285 --> 00:04:49,389 that teem with tiny creatures, like the mud snail. 54 00:04:52,692 --> 00:04:56,796 Each day more than 160 billion tons of water 55 00:04:56,796 --> 00:05:01,535 funnel through the Bay of Fundy. 56 00:05:01,535 --> 00:05:04,804 It would take two years for the same amount of water 57 00:05:04,804 --> 00:05:10,210 to cascade over Niagara Falls. 58 00:05:10,210 --> 00:05:13,647 The Bay of Fundy stretches along 180 miles 59 00:05:13,647 --> 00:05:16,583 of Canada's east coast. 60 00:05:16,583 --> 00:05:22,222 Cradled between the provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. 61 00:05:22,222 --> 00:05:26,626 Its mouth is 62 miles wide and reaches depths 62 00:05:26,626 --> 00:05:30,630 of more than 700 feet. 63 00:05:30,630 --> 00:05:34,734 The name Fundy is thought to date back to the 16th Century 64 00:05:34,734 --> 00:05:41,141 when Portuguese explorers first sailed across the bay. 65 00:05:41,141 --> 00:05:47,547 They called it Rio Fundo: Deep River. 66 00:05:47,547 --> 00:05:50,183 The Bay's extremely high tides 67 00:05:50,183 --> 00:05:53,587 are due to its length and unusual funnel shape. 68 00:05:59,092 --> 00:06:05,131 Water surging in from the Atlantic flows into the basin. 69 00:06:05,131 --> 00:06:07,734 As the bay gets narrower and shallower, 70 00:06:07,734 --> 00:06:13,306 there is no place for the water to go but up. 71 00:06:13,306 --> 00:06:15,609 Currents will rise as high as 50 feet 72 00:06:15,609 --> 00:06:20,747 along the coastline of the bay. 73 00:06:20,747 --> 00:06:22,616 The planet's oceanic tides 74 00:06:22,616 --> 00:06:28,054 are controlled by the orbit of the moon. 75 00:06:28,054 --> 00:06:30,390 High tide occurs on the Bay of Fundy 76 00:06:30,390 --> 00:06:35,161 when the moon is directly overhead. 77 00:06:35,161 --> 00:06:38,665 The gravitational force of the moon pulls ocean currents 78 00:06:38,665 --> 00:06:43,570 towards it, creating a high swell. 79 00:06:43,570 --> 00:06:47,307 Throughout the day, the earth and moon rotate away from 80 00:06:47,307 --> 00:06:52,545 one another, and the high swell is released like a slingshot, 81 00:06:52,545 --> 00:06:57,083 causing a tidal wave into the bay. 82 00:06:57,083 --> 00:07:01,321 The time it takes for this wave to travel into the bay 83 00:07:01,321 --> 00:07:05,358 then back out into the ocean is the same amount of time 84 00:07:05,358 --> 00:07:10,363 it takes the moon to orbit the earth. 85 00:07:10,363 --> 00:07:14,801 When the tide leaves the bay, It collides with the high swell 86 00:07:14,801 --> 00:07:19,539 caused by the next gravitational pull of the moon, 87 00:07:19,539 --> 00:07:23,777 once more forcing water into the bay again. 88 00:07:23,777 --> 00:07:26,112 GAUDET: It's called the seiche effect, or the bathtub effect, 89 00:07:26,112 --> 00:07:28,315 you know, when you get in a bathtub and the water will go 90 00:07:28,315 --> 00:07:32,452 like this; if you sit quietly it levels out, if you push or move 91 00:07:32,452 --> 00:07:36,690 a lot the water goes up further, that's what the bay does. 92 00:07:36,690 --> 00:07:39,259 The seiche effect or the bathtub effect combined with the 93 00:07:39,259 --> 00:07:44,364 shape of the bay causes the huge, huge tides. 94 00:07:44,364 --> 00:07:48,768 I'm completely enthralled with the amount of water 95 00:07:48,768 --> 00:07:50,804 that comes into this bay. 96 00:07:50,804 --> 00:07:55,842 It just blows my mind. 97 00:07:55,842 --> 00:07:58,578 NARRATOR: As the high tide leaves the bay, 98 00:07:58,578 --> 00:08:04,451 Fundy's muddy ocean floor is exposed once again. 99 00:08:04,451 --> 00:08:10,790 From a distance, the sea bottom appears deserted. 100 00:08:10,790 --> 00:08:16,029 Up close, the expansive tidal flats of the upper Bay of Fundy 101 00:08:16,029 --> 00:08:20,266 teem with life. 102 00:08:20,266 --> 00:08:24,371 The extreme tides of the bay whip up a perfect blend of 103 00:08:24,371 --> 00:08:29,676 water, oxygen, and mud, creating an ideal habitat 104 00:08:29,676 --> 00:08:35,248 for marine creatures like the mud snail. 105 00:08:35,248 --> 00:08:38,351 These coastal wetlands, called mudflats, 106 00:08:38,351 --> 00:08:42,422 form in sheltered areas like bays and estuaries 107 00:08:42,422 --> 00:08:46,159 where tides and rivers deposit mud. 108 00:08:46,159 --> 00:08:50,063 MORRIS-CORMIER: The mudflats may just look like mud to most people, 109 00:08:50,063 --> 00:08:56,302 but to me they're a velvety, expansive, unique habitat. 110 00:08:56,302 --> 00:08:59,472 NARRATOR: A complex food web of Invertebrates and mollusks 111 00:08:59,472 --> 00:09:02,342 is hidden in the mud. 112 00:09:06,012 --> 00:09:09,215 A nutrient-rich broth, called biofilm, 113 00:09:09,215 --> 00:09:13,186 underpins the entire food web. 114 00:09:14,487 --> 00:09:18,391 This soupy liquid brims with microscopic organisms 115 00:09:18,391 --> 00:09:25,398 that rely on the sun's energy to grow. 116 00:09:25,398 --> 00:09:28,635 At low tide, a one-mile stretch of mudflat 117 00:09:28,635 --> 00:09:33,807 receives direct sunlight, making these coastal wetlands 118 00:09:33,807 --> 00:09:39,746 one of the most vibrant ecosystems in the bay. 119 00:09:39,746 --> 00:09:44,651 Mud snails sail along the slushy surface. 120 00:09:44,651 --> 00:09:48,521 Each forages its own path through the muck 121 00:09:48,521 --> 00:09:53,226 to slurp up the nutrient-rich biofilm. 122 00:09:53,226 --> 00:09:55,562 Protected by a hard shell, 123 00:09:55,562 --> 00:10:01,067 mud snails face little threat from predators. 124 00:10:01,067 --> 00:10:04,637 Tiny mud shrimp hide out of sight. 125 00:10:04,637 --> 00:10:10,677 They burrow in the mud to avoid being eaten by the sandpipers. 126 00:10:10,677 --> 00:10:14,380 There are as many as 600,000 mud shrimp 127 00:10:14,380 --> 00:10:20,320 concealed in every square foot of brown sludge. 128 00:10:20,320 --> 00:10:23,723 But at high tide, this tasty seafood buffet 129 00:10:23,723 --> 00:10:27,527 is closed for business. 130 00:10:27,527 --> 00:10:30,163 Thousands of hungry shorebirds 131 00:10:30,163 --> 00:10:35,134 wait patiently for the tide to retreat. 132 00:10:35,134 --> 00:10:41,741 It will be another 6 hours before they can eat again. 133 00:10:41,741 --> 00:10:46,212 Playful sandpipers splash in a shallow tidal pool. 134 00:10:49,616 --> 00:10:55,121 For most, this time between meals is a crucial rest period. 135 00:10:55,121 --> 00:10:58,391 MORRIS-CORMIER: They come up onto the shore and a lot of times 136 00:10:58,391 --> 00:11:01,761 stand on one foot, tuck their little beak in under their wing 137 00:11:01,761 --> 00:11:04,197 and remain as still as possible 138 00:11:04,197 --> 00:11:06,499 so that they can conserve energy. 139 00:11:06,499 --> 00:11:08,334 It's what we call roosting. 140 00:11:08,334 --> 00:11:11,538 The birds cannot swim or cannot eat at high tide, 141 00:11:11,538 --> 00:11:14,107 so they get in these massive protective flocks. 142 00:11:18,811 --> 00:11:22,181 NARRATOR: As the tide edges further ashore, 143 00:11:22,181 --> 00:11:26,653 the sandpipers crowd the pebbled beach. 144 00:11:26,653 --> 00:11:29,722 But while the shorebirds wait for low tide, 145 00:11:29,722 --> 00:11:34,727 another bird is eyeing them. 146 00:11:36,863 --> 00:11:40,667 The wooded outskirts of the mudflats are the nesting grounds 147 00:11:40,667 --> 00:11:45,238 for the world's fastest predator. 148 00:11:45,238 --> 00:11:49,709 Nearly as fast as a Formula One race car, the peregrine falcon 149 00:11:49,709 --> 00:11:54,080 Is one of the most accomplished hunters on the mudflats. 150 00:11:57,884 --> 00:12:01,254 The sandpipers sense danger. 151 00:12:02,755 --> 00:12:09,329 MORRIS-CORMIER: These little tiny birds move as one huge organism. 152 00:12:09,329 --> 00:12:11,097 I don't know how they do it. 153 00:12:11,097 --> 00:12:13,766 You can see 10,000 birds flying at the same time 154 00:12:13,766 --> 00:12:17,136 in this unison formation. 155 00:12:17,136 --> 00:12:21,441 It's kind of a dance in the sky, like an aerial ballet. 156 00:12:21,441 --> 00:12:23,710 Flying in these miraculous formations 157 00:12:23,710 --> 00:12:28,448 that I sometimes think look like the Northern Lights. 158 00:12:28,448 --> 00:12:30,850 So that is actually a defense mechanism 159 00:12:30,850 --> 00:12:33,686 for these little sandpipers. 160 00:12:34,621 --> 00:12:39,359 NARRATOR: Like a school of fish in the sky, the flock twists and turns 161 00:12:39,359 --> 00:12:43,396 through the air, confusing its predators. 162 00:12:47,400 --> 00:12:52,405 But in this case the predator does not leave empty handed. 163 00:12:52,405 --> 00:12:56,309 This peregrine falcon flies off with a sandpiper 164 00:12:56,309 --> 00:12:59,145 clutched in its talons. 165 00:13:01,214 --> 00:13:03,750 As the tide begins to ebb, 166 00:13:03,750 --> 00:13:07,253 the sandpipers follow the retreating water line, 167 00:13:07,253 --> 00:13:12,425 bobbing their beaks in and out of the mud. 168 00:13:12,425 --> 00:13:14,727 The semipalmated sandpiper is named 169 00:13:14,727 --> 00:13:18,231 for the webbing between its toes. 170 00:13:18,231 --> 00:13:19,832 This tissue makes it well-equipped 171 00:13:19,832 --> 00:13:25,004 to tread along the surface of the mudflats without sinking. 172 00:13:27,440 --> 00:13:33,713 As the tide recedes, the birds spread out. 173 00:13:33,713 --> 00:13:38,217 Each mines its own section of the beach. 174 00:13:38,217 --> 00:13:40,720 Sandpipers use the tips of their bills 175 00:13:40,720 --> 00:13:45,825 to pluck invertebrates out of their burrows. 176 00:13:45,825 --> 00:13:49,829 One bird can eat as many as 20,000 mud shrimp 177 00:13:49,829 --> 00:13:54,400 in a single tidal cycle. 178 00:13:54,400 --> 00:13:58,504 With a 2500-mile journey on the horizon, 179 00:13:58,504 --> 00:14:03,643 stocking up on food is essential for survival. 180 00:14:03,643 --> 00:14:07,313 MORRIS-CORMIER: Every single bird's vulnerability is felt, 181 00:14:07,313 --> 00:14:09,215 and you can connect with these little birds 182 00:14:09,215 --> 00:14:11,317 and be inspired by them. 183 00:14:15,354 --> 00:14:18,458 NARRATOR: As the sun descends on the gleaming mudflats 184 00:14:18,458 --> 00:14:24,263 and night sets in for most, the birds will continue 185 00:14:24,263 --> 00:14:28,101 to fuel up for their great migration. 186 00:14:44,150 --> 00:14:49,088 Across the bay, sandstone statues sculpted by the tides 187 00:14:49,088 --> 00:14:55,261 stand on one of the Bay of Fundy's most iconic shorelines: 188 00:14:55,261 --> 00:14:58,798 the Hopewell Rocks. 189 00:14:58,798 --> 00:15:01,067 GAUDET: What we have here, that's better than many other places 190 00:15:01,067 --> 00:15:03,603 in the bay, is we have sea stacks that are great 191 00:15:03,603 --> 00:15:07,173 measuring sticks for people to see the vertical manifestation 192 00:15:07,173 --> 00:15:10,977 of the tide, which is absolutely amazing. 193 00:15:16,549 --> 00:15:21,587 NARRATOR: Here, the tides climb 46 feet up the sea stacks 194 00:15:21,587 --> 00:15:28,361 and wash over more than 6 miles of mudflats. 195 00:15:28,361 --> 00:15:32,231 Wind, rain, and the restless tides of the bay 196 00:15:32,231 --> 00:15:37,203 carve these unique formations. 197 00:15:39,238 --> 00:15:42,708 Water trickles down vertical fissures in cliffs, 198 00:15:42,708 --> 00:15:45,378 prying cracks open. 199 00:15:49,115 --> 00:15:53,586 Over thousands of years, large blocks of rock separate from 200 00:15:53,586 --> 00:16:00,660 adjoining cliffs and powerful tides carve away at their base, 201 00:16:00,660 --> 00:16:03,462 shaping the top-heavy formations 202 00:16:03,462 --> 00:16:07,400 known today as the flowerpot rocks. 203 00:16:09,068 --> 00:16:15,041 The term came from a single sea stack shaped like a flowerpot. 204 00:16:15,041 --> 00:16:18,744 The nickname stuck, and today, all sea stacks 205 00:16:18,744 --> 00:16:25,184 in the Bay of Fundy are referred to as flowerpot rocks, 206 00:16:25,184 --> 00:16:29,355 though only one truly resembles a flowerpot. 207 00:16:29,355 --> 00:16:32,792 GAUDET: Well, there's one person who's responsible for this, 208 00:16:32,792 --> 00:16:35,061 and guess who it was: Robert Ripley. 209 00:16:35,061 --> 00:16:38,064 Ripley's Believe it or Not was here in the 1930s. 210 00:16:38,064 --> 00:16:40,666 I don't know if he coined the expression, but he certainly 211 00:16:40,666 --> 00:16:44,503 popularized it, by calling that rock the flowerpot rock, 212 00:16:44,503 --> 00:16:47,473 and ever since then, people have referred to them 213 00:16:47,473 --> 00:16:50,176 as flowerpot rocks. 214 00:16:50,176 --> 00:16:56,215 NARRATOR: Each of the 17 flowerpot rocks is as unique as a fingerprint. 215 00:17:06,025 --> 00:17:10,029 As the tide retreats to expose the mudflats, 216 00:17:10,029 --> 00:17:14,800 visitors are able to walk on miles of ocean floor that 217 00:17:14,800 --> 00:17:19,372 just hours ago were submerged deep below the Atlantic. 218 00:17:23,075 --> 00:17:27,446 A deep-set cave hollowed out by the powerful force of the tide 219 00:17:27,446 --> 00:17:31,717 accompanies the sea stacks. 220 00:17:31,717 --> 00:17:35,521 GAUDET: One of my favorite spots is in the huge sea cave, 221 00:17:35,521 --> 00:17:39,358 and that is the most glowing or the best example 222 00:17:39,358 --> 00:17:41,527 of appreciation of how high the tide comes 223 00:17:41,527 --> 00:17:43,396 'cause you're standing up there where those holes are 224 00:17:43,396 --> 00:17:45,164 and you're looking down at low tide and you're thinking 225 00:17:45,164 --> 00:17:49,068 the water actually comes up here and made these holes. 226 00:17:52,805 --> 00:17:55,708 NARRATOR: The surging waters of Fundy's ceaseless tides 227 00:17:55,708 --> 00:18:00,212 wear away softer layers of sandstone rock, 228 00:18:00,212 --> 00:18:03,249 leaving the tougher layers unsupported. 229 00:18:06,719 --> 00:18:11,357 Eventually, chunks of the harder rock collapse, creating 230 00:18:11,357 --> 00:18:19,065 small caves that grow larger as pounding waters erode the rock. 231 00:18:22,768 --> 00:18:25,371 Barnacles and snails are left exposed 232 00:18:25,371 --> 00:18:28,507 on the porous sandstone cave. 233 00:18:33,212 --> 00:18:38,117 Seaweed that stood tall in an underwater forest just hours ago 234 00:18:38,117 --> 00:18:44,824 now becomes a carpet, soaking up the sunlight it needs to grow. 235 00:18:44,824 --> 00:18:48,094 And the red cliffs of the bay contrast 236 00:18:48,094 --> 00:18:51,697 with the bright green mosses that blanket the caves. 237 00:18:58,104 --> 00:19:00,573 It is a marine habitat, 238 00:19:00,573 --> 00:19:04,276 temporarily accessible to terrestrial visitors. 239 00:19:07,613 --> 00:19:11,117 Soon, their footsteps will be erased by the rising tide 240 00:19:11,117 --> 00:19:13,352 of the bay. 241 00:19:13,352 --> 00:19:18,124 And the caves will once again fill with water. 242 00:19:18,124 --> 00:19:19,558 GAUDET: Walking the beach is fascinating 243 00:19:19,558 --> 00:19:21,160 and seeing it at high tide is fascinating. 244 00:19:21,160 --> 00:19:24,230 And another component to that is going kayaking. 245 00:19:24,230 --> 00:19:27,400 Because the kayakers can go to places and touch things 246 00:19:27,400 --> 00:19:32,171 that you as a pedestrian cannot. 247 00:19:32,171 --> 00:19:34,707 NARRATOR: Amanda Harrington is an adventure guide 248 00:19:34,707 --> 00:19:37,777 and avid sea kayaker who has paddled these waters 249 00:19:37,777 --> 00:19:40,546 since she was a teen. 250 00:19:40,546 --> 00:19:43,249 HARRINGTON: Just to be out in the nature and to be on the water, 251 00:19:43,249 --> 00:19:44,784 I get to share the nature that people 252 00:19:44,784 --> 00:19:46,786 don't get to see on a regular basis. 253 00:19:46,786 --> 00:19:49,255 It's kind of unexplored because the Bay of Fundy 254 00:19:49,255 --> 00:19:52,725 is very unpredictable half the time. 255 00:19:52,725 --> 00:19:56,429 NARRATOR: The climate on the Bay of Fundy is temperamental 256 00:19:56,429 --> 00:19:59,031 and can change in a heartbeat. 257 00:20:00,066 --> 00:20:03,402 Sudden fog can disorient and threaten the safety 258 00:20:03,402 --> 00:20:06,138 of those on the water. 259 00:20:06,138 --> 00:20:07,773 HARRINGTON: You're always constantly thinking ahead, 260 00:20:07,773 --> 00:20:09,775 because you have to be one step ahead of the Bay of Fundy, 261 00:20:09,775 --> 00:20:12,845 because you never know what it can throw at you from day to day. 262 00:20:12,845 --> 00:20:18,184 NARRATOR: As fog rolls over the bay, a thick blanket of mist 263 00:20:18,184 --> 00:20:23,155 cloaks the dense, coastal forest. 264 00:20:23,155 --> 00:20:26,192 The feathery needles of towering red spruce 265 00:20:26,192 --> 00:20:29,295 comb through the particles of mist, 266 00:20:29,295 --> 00:20:33,365 collecting water on the tip of each needle. 267 00:20:35,434 --> 00:20:41,507 These drops fall onto a canopied forest floor, watering a dense, 268 00:20:41,507 --> 00:20:44,276 green carpet of moss. 269 00:20:46,145 --> 00:20:49,748 The Acadian Fog Forest of Fundy National Park 270 00:20:49,748 --> 00:20:55,154 is the intersection where boreal forest species from the north 271 00:20:55,154 --> 00:20:59,592 meet temperate trees from the south. 272 00:20:59,592 --> 00:21:04,997 It is a rare and special environment shaped by the tides. 273 00:21:07,333 --> 00:21:14,206 High tides on the Bay of Fundy keep the water cool year round. 274 00:21:14,206 --> 00:21:19,111 Twice a day, cold water from the Atlantic moves in and out 275 00:21:19,111 --> 00:21:21,113 of the bay. 276 00:21:22,114 --> 00:21:26,252 With no time to warm up, water temperatures here change 277 00:21:26,252 --> 00:21:28,420 by less than 20 degrees Fahrenheit 278 00:21:28,420 --> 00:21:30,723 between summer and winter. 279 00:21:33,259 --> 00:21:37,129 The Acadian fog forest clings to the coastline, 280 00:21:37,129 --> 00:21:41,700 thriving on the fog exhaled from the mouth of the bay 281 00:21:41,700 --> 00:21:45,571 as humid summer air hits the cool water, 282 00:21:45,571 --> 00:21:50,276 initiating the water cycle of this park. 283 00:21:50,276 --> 00:21:54,647 PHILLIPS: You get this beautiful rocky cliff habitat and areas 284 00:21:54,647 --> 00:21:57,283 where the forest comes down and meets the ocean. 285 00:21:57,283 --> 00:22:01,654 These beautiful, majestic, huge estuaries that have lots of 286 00:22:01,654 --> 00:22:04,623 salt marsh, where so many birds and other animals 287 00:22:04,623 --> 00:22:07,660 use as refuge. 288 00:22:07,660 --> 00:22:10,729 There's just so much diversity along the coast. 289 00:22:10,729 --> 00:22:14,366 And the tide is constantly reshaping those things. 290 00:22:16,101 --> 00:22:19,738 NARRATOR: The fog forest stretches from the marine coast 291 00:22:19,738 --> 00:22:24,176 of the Bay of Fundy up to the Caledonia Highlands 292 00:22:24,176 --> 00:22:28,280 nearly 1000 feet above the coastline. 293 00:22:33,852 --> 00:22:37,723 A high wetland lake is crowded with mosses 294 00:22:37,723 --> 00:22:40,726 and littered with deadwood. 295 00:22:44,230 --> 00:22:47,733 Dragonflies buzz around the coarse grasses. 296 00:22:51,203 --> 00:22:56,575 A determined frog sits still in the shallow water. 297 00:22:58,611 --> 00:23:03,582 It waits for the right moment to pounce on its prey. 298 00:23:03,582 --> 00:23:07,620 One of the many insects that hover over the lake. 299 00:23:09,688 --> 00:23:13,626 Life on the marshland is hard. 300 00:23:15,728 --> 00:23:20,699 The bog is highly acidic, low in nutrients, 301 00:23:20,699 --> 00:23:25,471 and home to some surprising predators. 302 00:23:28,440 --> 00:23:32,311 The carnivorous sundew plant uses sticky secretions 303 00:23:32,311 --> 00:23:33,746 to trap insects. 304 00:23:36,482 --> 00:23:40,419 The juice of the pitcher plant attracts, then dissolves, 305 00:23:40,419 --> 00:23:42,655 unsuspecting prey. 306 00:23:44,290 --> 00:23:47,860 These bog plants have evolved in fascinating ways, 307 00:23:47,860 --> 00:23:50,296 ensuring their survival. 308 00:23:52,264 --> 00:23:55,467 But the star of the bog is the green carpet 309 00:23:55,467 --> 00:24:01,106 under these grasses, called sphagnum moss. 310 00:24:01,106 --> 00:24:05,811 Capable of soaking up to 20 times its weight in water, 311 00:24:05,811 --> 00:24:09,548 sphagnum moss is so absorbent it was used 312 00:24:09,548 --> 00:24:14,119 to bandage wounded soldiers in the First World War. 313 00:24:16,221 --> 00:24:19,658 The spongy moss is the foundation of this marshland 314 00:24:19,658 --> 00:24:24,730 and regulates the park's most precious resource: water. 315 00:24:27,566 --> 00:24:32,404 During the rainy season the moss soaks up water. 316 00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:38,711 During a drought, the water drains out of the bog, 317 00:24:38,711 --> 00:24:43,582 gradually seeping into small streams below. 318 00:24:44,683 --> 00:24:49,521 Water descends from the Caledonia Highlands plateau, 319 00:24:49,521 --> 00:24:53,392 cascading over waterfalls into a deep-set ravine. 320 00:24:55,761 --> 00:25:00,165 A tiny community of creatures and plants sprayed by the 321 00:25:00,165 --> 00:25:06,238 gentle mist of the waterfall thrives under the canopy. 322 00:25:07,539 --> 00:25:10,542 This is Dickson Brook Falls. 323 00:25:12,811 --> 00:25:16,648 Its steep valley walls shelter a 324 00:25:16,648 --> 00:25:20,219 variety of shade-tolerant plants, each fighting 325 00:25:20,219 --> 00:25:24,523 for a small piece of real estate in a competitive market. 326 00:25:26,358 --> 00:25:29,528 PHILLIPS: Just like the forest, you've got different levels of the canopy, 327 00:25:29,528 --> 00:25:33,165 different tree species that are able to outcompete others 328 00:25:33,165 --> 00:25:36,635 and get up into the light, 329 00:25:36,635 --> 00:25:38,404 but the same thing happens in the understory. 330 00:25:38,404 --> 00:25:41,140 And down at Dickson Falls you have lots of different ferns 331 00:25:41,140 --> 00:25:44,410 that have the ability to grow up much higher than the mosses 332 00:25:44,410 --> 00:25:46,545 and lichens around them. 333 00:25:50,616 --> 00:25:56,188 NARRATOR: The rock polypody fern has a competitive edge: 334 00:25:56,188 --> 00:25:58,791 it grows straight out of the cliff, 335 00:25:58,791 --> 00:26:02,194 shading out other species below. 336 00:26:02,194 --> 00:26:05,164 PHILLIPS: All these species they start off very shade-tolerant themselves 337 00:26:05,164 --> 00:26:06,465 because they're under the canopy of the trees. 338 00:26:06,465 --> 00:26:09,268 But then as you go down through the layers, 339 00:26:09,268 --> 00:26:11,036 you have to be more and more shade-tolerant 340 00:26:11,036 --> 00:26:14,440 and survive with less and less light. 341 00:26:14,440 --> 00:26:19,278 NARRATOR: Mosses like sphagnum prefer cool, shady conditions 342 00:26:19,278 --> 00:26:22,581 and dominate this ravine. 343 00:26:25,317 --> 00:26:30,656 A partnership between fungi and algae creates a special organism 344 00:26:30,656 --> 00:26:33,392 called lichen. 345 00:26:33,392 --> 00:26:38,530 Though lichens grow everywhere, they go largely unnoticed. 346 00:26:38,530 --> 00:26:41,600 PHILLIPS: If you look at the bark of most trees, 347 00:26:41,600 --> 00:26:43,502 you're not actually looking at the bark of the tree; 348 00:26:43,502 --> 00:26:45,771 you're just looking at a community of lichens. 349 00:26:45,771 --> 00:26:49,141 And the closer you get to that tree you'll find completely 350 00:26:49,141 --> 00:26:51,276 different communities on the different species 351 00:26:51,276 --> 00:26:53,579 and those lichens are all competing for space 352 00:26:53,579 --> 00:26:56,748 on the tree, on that bark, or on a rock, 353 00:26:56,748 --> 00:26:58,417 or wherever they're growing. 354 00:26:58,417 --> 00:27:03,288 There's just an insane amount of competition. 355 00:27:03,288 --> 00:27:07,392 NARRATOR: The competitive spirit of the lichens and plants of the forest 356 00:27:07,392 --> 00:27:11,029 sustains the health of Dickson Brook Falls 357 00:27:11,029 --> 00:27:14,500 and regulates its water cycle. 358 00:27:14,500 --> 00:27:18,337 PHILLIPS: You'll see that the water in that brook is just crystal clear 359 00:27:18,337 --> 00:27:22,140 because this community all around there is capturing the 360 00:27:22,140 --> 00:27:26,078 fog, holding on to the moisture, filtering that rainwater, 361 00:27:26,078 --> 00:27:30,148 filtering everything as it goes down through. 362 00:27:30,148 --> 00:27:33,218 And it all starts with that plant community. 363 00:27:37,189 --> 00:27:42,327 NARRATOR: The waters of the brook flow into larger and rockier rivers. 364 00:27:47,633 --> 00:27:52,437 The beds of gravel below these waters are important habitats 365 00:27:52,437 --> 00:27:57,376 for spawning fish like the Atlantic salmon. 366 00:28:01,046 --> 00:28:04,716 Finally, these rivers flow out into estuaries 367 00:28:04,716 --> 00:28:11,657 where they feed back into the mouth of the bay. 368 00:28:11,657 --> 00:28:16,194 One of nature's expert fishers, the great blue heron, 369 00:28:16,194 --> 00:28:18,697 scans the estuary for prey. 370 00:28:26,705 --> 00:28:33,812 As the tide pulls away, shallow waters reveal enticing prey: 371 00:28:33,812 --> 00:28:38,116 like small fish headed for inland rivers to spawn. 372 00:28:45,090 --> 00:28:48,126 The heron patrols the bay. 373 00:28:50,796 --> 00:28:58,236 No fish comes within range, and it decides to try its luck 374 00:28:58,236 --> 00:29:00,439 on the other side of the channel. 375 00:29:05,344 --> 00:29:09,181 The heron has a wingspan of nearly seven feet. 376 00:29:10,749 --> 00:29:14,453 Its long neck tucks into an S shape in flight 377 00:29:14,453 --> 00:29:16,989 for greater aerodynamics. 378 00:29:19,358 --> 00:29:23,428 The heron seems to have spotted its prey. 379 00:29:31,303 --> 00:29:37,743 Soon, this estuary will once again fill with water, 380 00:29:37,743 --> 00:29:42,180 and a thick fog will roll in with the tide, 381 00:29:42,180 --> 00:29:46,551 exhaling its misty breath into the Acadian forest, 382 00:29:46,551 --> 00:29:50,489 starting this water cycle all over again. 383 00:29:54,192 --> 00:29:57,229 Across the bay, the retreating tide 384 00:29:57,229 --> 00:30:02,768 reveals a much different forest, fossil by fossil. 385 00:30:05,203 --> 00:30:08,140 These are the Joggins Fossil Cliffs. 386 00:30:12,310 --> 00:30:17,182 Traces of ancient plants that once stood as tall as 10-story 387 00:30:17,182 --> 00:30:21,286 buildings are fossilized in the walls of these cliffs. 388 00:30:24,589 --> 00:30:29,361 This jagged bluff, nine miles long, provides a window 389 00:30:29,361 --> 00:30:35,200 into our planet's past more than 300 million years ago. 390 00:30:38,370 --> 00:30:41,773 A time known as the Carboniferous period. 391 00:30:48,180 --> 00:30:53,418 Millions of years ago, the mosses of Fundy National Park 392 00:30:53,418 --> 00:30:55,721 would have looked much different. 393 00:30:56,855 --> 00:30:58,090 FAULKNER: The typical mosses that you would see 394 00:30:58,090 --> 00:31:00,592 growing on the forest floor, that's the size they are now. 395 00:31:01,393 --> 00:31:03,762 But back in the carboniferous, tissues that grew like that 396 00:31:03,762 --> 00:31:09,367 grew up to 30 meters in height or higher. 397 00:31:09,367 --> 00:31:13,572 NARRATOR: Unlike the plants in shaded Dickson Brooke Falls, 398 00:31:13,572 --> 00:31:17,676 the mosses that grew in this sun-filled ancient forest 399 00:31:17,676 --> 00:31:22,848 had no need to compete for sunlight and space, 400 00:31:22,848 --> 00:31:26,618 so they grew to monster proportions. 401 00:31:33,692 --> 00:31:35,494 These supersized plants 402 00:31:35,494 --> 00:31:40,866 generated high concentrations of oxygen: 50 percent more 403 00:31:40,866 --> 00:31:44,236 than what is in the earth's atmosphere today. 404 00:31:47,205 --> 00:31:52,110 In this hyper-oxygenated environment, insects thrived. 405 00:31:55,180 --> 00:31:57,516 Most insects are able to take in oxygen 406 00:31:57,516 --> 00:32:01,386 at a rate much higher than other creatures. 407 00:32:03,321 --> 00:32:05,423 They do not have lungs. 408 00:32:05,423 --> 00:32:08,093 Instead, tubes all over their bodies 409 00:32:08,093 --> 00:32:11,363 deliver oxygen to each cell. 410 00:32:13,498 --> 00:32:16,668 With more oxygen penetrating their deepest cells, 411 00:32:16,668 --> 00:32:22,307 insects evolved to horror-movie dimensions. 412 00:32:22,307 --> 00:32:25,076 FAULKNER: What we're looking at here on this slab of sandstone 413 00:32:25,076 --> 00:32:28,580 are two rows of ripples that you can pretty distinctly see 414 00:32:28,580 --> 00:32:31,082 right here, almost looks like a stroller or something 415 00:32:31,082 --> 00:32:32,684 was pushed over this rock. 416 00:32:32,684 --> 00:32:35,287 But these are track ways called diplichnites, 417 00:32:35,287 --> 00:32:38,323 formed by a giant millipede called arthropleura, 418 00:32:38,323 --> 00:32:40,525 This is actually the largest land invertebrate 419 00:32:40,525 --> 00:32:43,695 that we know has ever existed. 420 00:32:43,695 --> 00:32:48,567 NARRATOR: This monstrous millipede grew as long as 7 feet. 421 00:32:53,839 --> 00:32:57,676 The Carboniferous Period is known as the Coal Age. 422 00:33:00,312 --> 00:33:04,316 Over millions of years, heat and pressure converted 423 00:33:04,316 --> 00:33:09,621 prehistoric plants into the coal still used as fuel today. 424 00:33:11,389 --> 00:33:14,359 FAULKNER: What coal is, it's not a rock, it's actually just the carbon 425 00:33:14,359 --> 00:33:16,294 that's left over from ancient vegetation. 426 00:33:16,294 --> 00:33:18,363 So it's a huge mat of ancient vegetation 427 00:33:18,363 --> 00:33:21,366 that had a chance to rot as one unit. 428 00:33:21,366 --> 00:33:23,134 So peat moss essentially. 429 00:33:24,369 --> 00:33:26,071 In Nova Scotia, there's been a lot of coal Mining, 430 00:33:26,071 --> 00:33:28,440 so that's what a lot of people here had known 431 00:33:28,440 --> 00:33:30,108 for a very long time. 432 00:33:36,748 --> 00:33:39,451 REID: I started in the coal business in 1939 433 00:33:39,451 --> 00:33:43,755 and I did that till 1960. 434 00:33:43,755 --> 00:33:46,524 You see the timber sand in there? 435 00:33:46,524 --> 00:33:50,395 My dad used to work there. 436 00:33:50,395 --> 00:33:55,867 What we're looking at here is a drain from the old coal mine. 437 00:33:55,867 --> 00:34:00,205 This used to be the old pier that they used to load coal 438 00:34:00,205 --> 00:34:03,341 when the ships come in for coal. 439 00:34:03,341 --> 00:34:07,045 When everybody used coal for cooking, eat-- 440 00:34:07,045 --> 00:34:09,114 But them days is gone. 441 00:34:14,552 --> 00:34:17,289 I can't walk this beach with my head up. 442 00:34:17,289 --> 00:34:19,324 My head is always down looking. 443 00:34:19,324 --> 00:34:24,095 And if I see something I think is good to pick up, 444 00:34:24,095 --> 00:34:26,698 like a piece like this. 445 00:34:26,698 --> 00:34:31,269 Now, that piece used to be the bottom of the lake at one time, 446 00:34:31,269 --> 00:34:34,139 and it's-- you turn it over, 447 00:34:34,139 --> 00:34:37,509 you see all the little-- that's feces. 448 00:34:37,509 --> 00:34:38,543 Fish poop. 449 00:34:38,543 --> 00:34:41,279 That's 300 million years old. 450 00:34:41,279 --> 00:34:43,581 See that little cracks in there? 451 00:34:43,581 --> 00:34:46,718 You keep tapping it, it'll break open for ya, 452 00:34:46,718 --> 00:34:51,256 and I'll show ya what's inside. 453 00:34:51,256 --> 00:34:53,558 You see there's some more stuff inside there. 454 00:34:53,558 --> 00:34:54,859 And when you break a rock and look at it, 455 00:34:54,859 --> 00:34:57,262 you're the first person that ever seen that. 456 00:34:57,262 --> 00:35:00,031 You find scales, you find teeth. 457 00:35:00,031 --> 00:35:02,701 Wow. Just like opening a storybook. 458 00:35:02,701 --> 00:35:04,302 And it's a great feeling. 459 00:35:04,302 --> 00:35:07,238 Stand and look and wondering what took place back then, 460 00:35:07,238 --> 00:35:09,107 300 million years ago. 461 00:35:09,107 --> 00:35:11,509 That's why I love it here. 462 00:35:11,509 --> 00:35:12,811 I keep looking and wondering. 463 00:35:12,811 --> 00:35:15,080 Scratching my head all the time. 464 00:35:15,080 --> 00:35:18,049 Trying to figure out what took place. 465 00:35:18,049 --> 00:35:20,552 What it really looked like. 466 00:35:20,552 --> 00:35:24,456 It was mossy, freshwater lakes. 467 00:35:24,456 --> 00:35:26,725 The plants was huge. 468 00:35:26,725 --> 00:35:30,095 Even the bugs we find is big. 469 00:35:30,095 --> 00:35:34,232 Not like today. 470 00:35:34,232 --> 00:35:37,502 I found a mayfly, back then they were that wide. 471 00:35:37,502 --> 00:35:41,506 Today they're like a mosquito. 472 00:35:41,506 --> 00:35:47,612 NARRATOR: In 2008 this coal-age Galapagos was named a World Heritage Site 473 00:35:47,612 --> 00:35:52,484 for its rich fossil record. 474 00:35:52,484 --> 00:35:58,123 The first major discovery was made on this beach in 1859. 475 00:36:00,158 --> 00:36:03,762 An associate of Charles Darwin used dynamite to excavate 476 00:36:03,762 --> 00:36:09,334 the bones of the earliest known reptile ever discovered. 477 00:36:09,334 --> 00:36:13,171 It was the missing link between amphibians and vertebrates 478 00:36:13,171 --> 00:36:15,740 that moved onto land. 479 00:36:15,740 --> 00:36:20,178 Today, the cliffs are excavated naturally 480 00:36:20,178 --> 00:36:23,581 by Fundy's 40 foot-tall tides, 481 00:36:23,581 --> 00:36:28,653 allowing researchers to pull fossils without digging. 482 00:36:31,589 --> 00:36:32,824 FAULKNER: Way back during the Carboniferous, 483 00:36:32,824 --> 00:36:34,692 Joggins was situated right in the center 484 00:36:34,692 --> 00:36:37,328 between the newly formed Appalachian range. 485 00:36:37,328 --> 00:36:39,064 So huge Appalachian mountains all around us. 486 00:36:39,064 --> 00:36:40,765 We were on a sinking block of land 487 00:36:40,765 --> 00:36:42,500 between some mountains actually. 488 00:36:42,500 --> 00:36:43,768 So we were the lowest point. 489 00:36:43,768 --> 00:36:46,371 And all of the sediment that was coming down from those mountains 490 00:36:46,371 --> 00:36:48,540 and being carried by all of the meandering rivers 491 00:36:48,540 --> 00:36:49,774 and the fast rivers and everything like that 492 00:36:49,774 --> 00:36:53,211 was all being deposited at the lowest point, which was us. 493 00:36:53,211 --> 00:36:55,814 So we get so many layers of rock there because 494 00:36:55,814 --> 00:36:59,150 of all that sedimentation that was constantly happening. 495 00:37:01,653 --> 00:37:04,155 This formation didn't really have a choice 496 00:37:04,155 --> 00:37:07,125 but to buckle into that basin. 497 00:37:07,125 --> 00:37:10,628 It's bowl-shaped and that's why these layers are tilted. 498 00:37:10,628 --> 00:37:13,665 They're all in chronological order so you can walk back 499 00:37:13,665 --> 00:37:16,501 15 million years by going straight up the beach 500 00:37:16,501 --> 00:37:18,670 and not digging down. 501 00:37:18,670 --> 00:37:21,372 Every kilometer is a million years. 502 00:37:21,372 --> 00:37:23,341 You're actually walking through the evolution of some groups 503 00:37:23,341 --> 00:37:24,542 of plants and animals. 504 00:37:31,382 --> 00:37:35,620 NARRATOR: Twelve miles off the coast of Nova Scotia is a reminder 505 00:37:35,620 --> 00:37:41,326 of the Bay of Fundy's turbulent geological past. 506 00:37:41,326 --> 00:37:43,394 Isle Haute. 507 00:37:43,394 --> 00:37:46,064 OSTERMANN: That's part of the fun of going there. 508 00:37:46,064 --> 00:37:47,699 To get a step back in time 509 00:37:47,699 --> 00:37:50,768 and understand a little bit about it. 510 00:37:50,768 --> 00:37:53,605 It's a special place in the middle of the Bay of Fundy, 511 00:37:53,605 --> 00:37:58,076 17 kilometer out in the fog here behind me. 512 00:37:58,376 --> 00:38:02,347 NARRATOR: More than 150 million years ago 513 00:38:02,347 --> 00:38:08,286 the ancient supercontinent of Pangea broke apart. 514 00:38:08,286 --> 00:38:13,791 A rift formed, creating two landmasses: one including 515 00:38:13,791 --> 00:38:18,429 present-day Africa; the other including North America. 516 00:38:21,032 --> 00:38:24,669 As the rift pushed the two plates apart, 517 00:38:24,669 --> 00:38:28,273 the pressure triggered volcanic eruptions, 518 00:38:28,273 --> 00:38:33,178 burying southern Nova Scotia under a layer of magma. 519 00:38:35,480 --> 00:38:40,752 Over time, lava solidified into basalt. 520 00:38:40,752 --> 00:38:45,690 The entire island is made up of this volcanic rock. 521 00:38:48,259 --> 00:38:51,095 Isle Haute is one of the most prominent islands 522 00:38:51,095 --> 00:38:53,531 in the upper Bay of Fundy. 523 00:38:56,467 --> 00:39:01,172 Its thousand-foot vertical cliffs rise from the water, 524 00:39:01,172 --> 00:39:04,309 veiled by a sheet of thick Fundy fog. 525 00:39:08,413 --> 00:39:12,250 A colony of grey seals patrols the waters, 526 00:39:16,521 --> 00:39:21,259 and lush, green vegetation claims the land. 527 00:39:23,261 --> 00:39:28,967 OSTERMANN: Beauty and dramatic rock formations, seals popping up. 528 00:39:31,736 --> 00:39:33,238 The scent. 529 00:39:33,238 --> 00:39:36,608 It is just a very unique spot. 530 00:39:36,608 --> 00:39:38,810 And then we're in a busy world, where there's actually 531 00:39:38,810 --> 00:39:43,681 very few spots where there's no development, no action, 532 00:39:43,681 --> 00:39:46,217 it's just so calm. 533 00:39:46,217 --> 00:39:51,122 And just feel it, it has allure and a meaning 534 00:39:51,122 --> 00:39:53,224 for people around the bay. 535 00:39:54,826 --> 00:39:58,329 NARRATOR: Though now a peaceful retreat, Isle Haute 536 00:39:58,329 --> 00:40:02,700 and its surrounding waters were once among the most treacherous 537 00:40:02,700 --> 00:40:05,703 places in the upper Bay of Fundy. 538 00:40:07,605 --> 00:40:12,744 In 1604, the French explorer Samuel De Champlain 539 00:40:12,744 --> 00:40:15,079 first laid eyes on the island. 540 00:40:16,581 --> 00:40:19,751 He called it Isle Haute, High Island, 541 00:40:19,751 --> 00:40:23,588 for its tall, vertical cliffs. 542 00:40:23,588 --> 00:40:27,792 OSTERMANN: I know now it was not foggy when he found it. 543 00:40:27,792 --> 00:40:29,627 He would never have made it then. 544 00:40:29,627 --> 00:40:33,131 He would either have grounded his ship and been in bad shape 545 00:40:33,131 --> 00:40:34,399 or not found it at all. 546 00:40:34,399 --> 00:40:38,670 It's fairly small, like just an kilometer-and-a-half in length 547 00:40:38,670 --> 00:40:43,708 and much less in width, so a slim little baby out there. 548 00:40:47,178 --> 00:40:51,582 NARRATOR: In the golden age of the sail, nearly everything moved by 549 00:40:51,582 --> 00:40:58,589 way of water, and Isle Haute was an obstacle for passing ships. 550 00:40:58,589 --> 00:41:03,061 OSTERMANN: There is a perilous place around Isle Haute. 551 00:41:03,061 --> 00:41:06,664 It has a long hook shape out in the Bay of Fundy. 552 00:41:06,664 --> 00:41:09,334 So you have deep water on each side, 553 00:41:09,334 --> 00:41:12,303 and then this gravel bar sticks out. 554 00:41:12,303 --> 00:41:16,240 And that can be a very difficult to navigate around 555 00:41:16,240 --> 00:41:19,644 and it creates tidal rips at certain conditions. 556 00:41:19,644 --> 00:41:23,748 So it was a very dangerous place to navigate around. 557 00:41:26,517 --> 00:41:30,588 NARRATOR: For nearly 100 years, a lighthouse on the island 558 00:41:30,588 --> 00:41:35,593 alerted incoming ships to danger. 559 00:41:35,593 --> 00:41:38,396 But the solitary life of a lighthouse keeper 560 00:41:38,396 --> 00:41:41,265 on remote Isle Haute was a hard one. 561 00:41:42,834 --> 00:41:44,702 When the lighthouse burnt down, 562 00:41:44,702 --> 00:41:48,639 the island became once again uninhabited. 563 00:41:58,516 --> 00:42:02,053 Back on shore, one of the oldest lighthouses 564 00:42:02,053 --> 00:42:06,591 on the Bay of Fundy coast still stands, 565 00:42:06,591 --> 00:42:11,329 reminding mariners of the many ships that have wrecked here. 566 00:42:16,300 --> 00:42:19,270 One of the most hazardous stretches on the waters 567 00:42:19,270 --> 00:42:25,143 of the upper Bay of Fundy is Cape Enrage, 568 00:42:25,143 --> 00:42:28,379 named for the turbulent waters that pass over 569 00:42:28,379 --> 00:42:33,284 this jagged reef jutting sharply into the bay. 570 00:42:36,854 --> 00:42:39,757 For one hundred years, the Bay of Fundy 571 00:42:39,757 --> 00:42:45,229 served as a marine highway that connected Canada's east coast 572 00:42:45,229 --> 00:42:50,468 to the world's major seaports. 573 00:42:50,468 --> 00:42:56,240 People marked time by the turn of the tide, and still do today. 574 00:42:58,209 --> 00:43:01,446 OSTERMANN: Everybody who makes their living on the water like I do, 575 00:43:01,446 --> 00:43:05,183 they know that you have to work when it's possible. 576 00:43:05,183 --> 00:43:08,286 The fishermen here know it more than most. 577 00:43:08,286 --> 00:43:12,490 (Foghorn blowing) 578 00:43:17,528 --> 00:43:22,233 NARRATOR: In the early morning, a colorful fleet of fishing boats 579 00:43:22,233 --> 00:43:26,771 waits in the bay for the tide to rise 580 00:43:26,771 --> 00:43:30,675 and fill the empty harbor with water. 581 00:43:38,216 --> 00:43:41,319 WITHERS: For us here, we don't have a 9 to 5 job. 582 00:43:41,319 --> 00:43:44,622 We run by the tides. 583 00:43:45,723 --> 00:43:49,660 NOFTELL: You only have so much time to get the boat in, boat out, 584 00:43:49,660 --> 00:43:52,296 and then when you're out on the water, you're dictated 585 00:43:52,296 --> 00:43:56,133 by the bay; there's no way to get around it. 586 00:43:58,803 --> 00:44:03,674 The tides govern your lifestyle, they govern the job, 587 00:44:03,674 --> 00:44:07,712 and some days you think you're coming in at a certain time, 588 00:44:07,712 --> 00:44:10,481 you miss the tide, guess what? 589 00:44:10,481 --> 00:44:11,682 You're out for another 12 hours, 590 00:44:11,682 --> 00:44:15,119 so there's no way you're working around it. 591 00:44:15,119 --> 00:44:17,421 Tides control your job. 592 00:44:17,421 --> 00:44:18,589 Sometimes it's smooth sailing, 593 00:44:18,589 --> 00:44:21,826 sometimes it's rougher than hell. 594 00:44:21,826 --> 00:44:24,595 NARRATOR: Modern fishing boats are outfitted with tools 595 00:44:24,595 --> 00:44:29,467 to aid navigation and avoid the perils that wrecked the ships 596 00:44:29,467 --> 00:44:33,104 of those who came before them. 597 00:44:33,104 --> 00:44:36,807 WITHERS: At times here in the Bay of Fundy it can get quite foggy. 598 00:44:36,807 --> 00:44:41,178 But you're prepared for it because we use a lot of 599 00:44:41,178 --> 00:44:44,148 electronics like radar and GPS and sounders 600 00:44:44,148 --> 00:44:46,651 and that's what you use to just-- 601 00:44:46,651 --> 00:44:48,586 almost like playing a video game when you're out there. 602 00:44:48,586 --> 00:44:55,393 You can't see nothing but -- just dots on the screens. 603 00:44:55,393 --> 00:44:58,095 NOFTELL: It has a draw on ya and you can't explain that 604 00:44:58,095 --> 00:45:00,031 until you've been out on it. 605 00:45:00,031 --> 00:45:02,733 The water, the smells, the sounds. 606 00:45:02,733 --> 00:45:07,672 Bay of Fundy is the best spot in the world to work. 607 00:45:14,612 --> 00:45:20,318 NARRATOR: From coastal flatlands to towering sandstone sea stacks, 608 00:45:20,318 --> 00:45:23,120 the landscapes on the Bay of Fundy 609 00:45:23,120 --> 00:45:27,091 change with the turn of the tide. 610 00:45:27,091 --> 00:45:28,826 OSTERMANN: It's like things get revealed; 611 00:45:28,826 --> 00:45:32,496 you're allowed to see inside a crystal ball or something. 612 00:45:32,496 --> 00:45:35,733 NARRATOR: It is a landscape where powerful currents 613 00:45:35,733 --> 00:45:40,705 unearth 300 million-year-old mysteries. 614 00:45:40,705 --> 00:45:45,376 REID: As long as I can walk, and keep walking, I'll look for fossils. 615 00:45:45,376 --> 00:45:47,745 Who knows how many secrets is in this cliff? 616 00:45:47,745 --> 00:45:50,147 And we're gonna find them. 617 00:45:50,147 --> 00:45:55,152 NARRATOR: Fog breathes new life into old-growth forests. 618 00:45:58,522 --> 00:46:04,328 Shorelines teem with wildlife, and communities are governed 619 00:46:04,328 --> 00:46:09,567 by the rhythm of the world's highest tides. 620 00:46:11,702 --> 00:46:21,746 (♪♪♪) 621 00:46:21,746 --> 00:46:26,784 (♪♪♪) 622 00:46:26,784 --> 00:46:36,994 (♪♪♪) 52829

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