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Narrator: In the dry-lands
of South Africa,
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00:00:08,575 --> 00:00:12,312
where heat and thirst
are a constant,
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00:00:13,647 --> 00:00:18,652
there's an alien world
seemingly void of life.
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00:00:24,758 --> 00:00:27,761
But a line runs through it,
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00:00:28,662 --> 00:00:31,698
Where nature abounds.
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00:00:31,698 --> 00:00:35,035
A waterway of immense
proportions -
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00:00:40,707 --> 00:00:43,143
Breathing life into the desert.
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00:00:45,779 --> 00:00:49,816
This is the pilgrimage
of the Orange river -
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00:00:51,485 --> 00:00:55,722
the journey of the Linear Oasis.
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00:01:29,289 --> 00:01:32,259
Stretching over 1,200 miles,
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00:01:32,259 --> 00:01:36,063
the Orange river is the longest
in South Africa.
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00:01:37,664 --> 00:01:41,301
Flowing west towards
the cold Atlantic Ocean,
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00:01:41,301 --> 00:01:43,236
it bisects Lesotho
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00:01:43,236 --> 00:01:47,040
and then forms South Africa's
border with Namibia.
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00:01:50,410 --> 00:01:54,047
In its lower reaches
it's a mammoth force,
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00:01:56,850 --> 00:02:00,487
Forging its way
through rock and sand alike.
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00:02:03,490 --> 00:02:07,594
Alternating between angry,
abundant might -
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00:02:10,530 --> 00:02:12,599
And slow lethargy.
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00:02:19,406 --> 00:02:22,609
The Orange river
is an iconic landscaper
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00:02:22,609 --> 00:02:25,379
across the southern tip
of Africa.
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00:02:31,385 --> 00:02:33,854
But the river has humble origins
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00:02:33,854 --> 00:02:36,690
in the mountain peaks
of Lesotho.
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00:02:46,500 --> 00:02:49,302
It begins as just a trickle.
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00:02:51,271 --> 00:02:53,807
Or rather, many trickles.
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00:03:13,560 --> 00:03:17,564
The river starts nearly 10,000
feet above sea level,
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00:03:17,564 --> 00:03:19,733
in the Maluti Mountains.
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00:03:24,271 --> 00:03:28,341
Up here in the clouds,
rainfall is abundant.
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00:03:37,818 --> 00:03:43,457
It doesn't take long for
trickles to become streams.
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00:03:43,457 --> 00:03:46,493
And for streams
to become rivers.
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00:03:52,699 --> 00:03:56,837
The catchment area here is vast
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00:03:56,837 --> 00:03:58,772
- with multiple watersheds
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00:03:58,772 --> 00:04:02,442
channeling many young rivers
into one another.
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00:04:15,722 --> 00:04:20,460
In these early reaches the river
is known as the Senqu -
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00:04:20,460 --> 00:04:24,030
named by the Sesotho inhabitants
of the area.
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00:04:28,802 --> 00:04:30,670
On leaving Lesotho,
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00:04:30,670 --> 00:04:35,041
the river bends out into
the interior of South Africa.
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00:04:41,248 --> 00:04:45,185
It's here that it joins forces
with its main tributary,
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00:04:45,185 --> 00:04:46,386
the Vaal.
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00:04:50,657 --> 00:04:54,327
The Vaal river has been
working its way south west
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00:04:54,327 --> 00:04:58,298
for over 600 miles.
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00:04:58,298 --> 00:05:03,537
The two rivers merge in South
Africa's Northern Cape province.
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00:05:03,537 --> 00:05:06,439
From here, they continue their
journey westwards
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00:05:06,439 --> 00:05:08,508
towards the Atlantic Ocean,
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00:05:08,508 --> 00:05:13,113
crossing two thirds of the
country with renewed strength.
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00:05:24,324 --> 00:05:28,061
Despite having sources so close
to the east coast,
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00:05:28,061 --> 00:05:30,096
both rivers flow west -
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00:05:30,096 --> 00:05:33,366
making their journey to the sea
a long one.
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00:05:36,736 --> 00:05:39,706
This is a result
of tectonic uplift
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00:05:39,706 --> 00:05:41,675
that blocked their flow east
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00:05:41,675 --> 00:05:45,378
and channeled both rivers into
the basin of the interior.
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00:06:08,101 --> 00:06:10,704
550 miles from its source,
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00:06:10,704 --> 00:06:13,206
the newly merged Orange river
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00:06:13,206 --> 00:06:15,709
attracts a diverse
range of life.
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00:06:23,049 --> 00:06:28,221
The day is young but the avian
residents are already busy.
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00:06:30,257 --> 00:06:32,225
Birds flock to its waters,
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00:06:32,225 --> 00:06:36,763
attracted by the numerous fish,
crabs and frogs on offer.
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00:07:19,506 --> 00:07:22,742
Water birds have already taken
their first swim
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00:07:22,742 --> 00:07:26,146
and wait patiently to catch
the first rays of light
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00:07:26,146 --> 00:07:28,615
after a cold morning of fishing.
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00:07:33,420 --> 00:07:36,222
Others let their meals
come to them.
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00:07:39,326 --> 00:07:43,296
Floating islands of vegetation
drift idly downstream.
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00:07:48,768 --> 00:07:52,339
For the birds
it's a mobile buffet -
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00:07:52,339 --> 00:07:56,209
transporting various marooned
insects down the river.
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00:08:00,113 --> 00:08:03,316
Wagtails pick their breakfast
off with ease,
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00:08:03,316 --> 00:08:06,486
enjoying a ride as they forage.
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00:08:14,561 --> 00:08:18,698
The African darter is one of
the bigger personalities here.
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00:08:22,135 --> 00:08:24,637
It's also
one of the best swimmers.
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00:08:26,306 --> 00:08:28,641
They move using foot-propulsion,
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00:08:28,641 --> 00:08:32,579
usually with only their long
neck visible above the water.
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00:08:34,414 --> 00:08:37,183
This has earned them
the colloquial name,
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00:08:37,183 --> 00:08:38,685
the 'snakebird'.
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00:08:41,755 --> 00:08:44,324
A male's on the hunt for fish.
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00:08:47,627 --> 00:08:51,297
He will spear his prey before
bringing it up to the surface
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00:08:51,297 --> 00:08:55,235
to shake it off his bill tip
and into his mouth.
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00:09:03,143 --> 00:09:07,280
This tricky operation
requires some practice.
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00:09:15,789 --> 00:09:20,293
Patrolling above is the avian
authority on fishing
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the African fish eagle.
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00:09:30,136 --> 00:09:32,605
The darter must be wary.
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00:09:32,605 --> 00:09:37,210
The great eagle is not averse to
stealing somebody else's catch.
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00:09:48,521 --> 00:09:50,623
With such riches on offer,
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00:09:50,623 --> 00:09:53,226
fights for territory
often break out.
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00:10:04,771 --> 00:10:08,575
An aerial dogfight
falls from the sky.
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00:10:12,312 --> 00:10:15,181
The highly territorial
Egyptian geese
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00:10:15,181 --> 00:10:18,485
will fight to the death
for this stretch of river.
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00:10:30,230 --> 00:10:33,132
But their racket
draws unwanted attention.
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00:10:40,673 --> 00:10:43,243
The fish eagle
sees the distracted geese
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00:10:43,243 --> 00:10:45,411
as a chance for an easy meal.
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00:10:58,124 --> 00:10:59,526
A close call.
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00:11:03,663 --> 00:11:07,367
It appears his eyes
are bigger than his stomach.
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00:11:21,314 --> 00:11:25,618
The river courses with fishermen
in many forms.
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00:11:25,618 --> 00:11:27,820
One of the most
elusive predators
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00:11:27,820 --> 00:11:29,822
moves quickly and quietly,
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00:11:29,822 --> 00:11:33,526
flipping rocks and feeling for
crabs along the shallow banks
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00:11:33,526 --> 00:11:35,428
of the Orange river.
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00:11:42,735 --> 00:11:45,505
The Cape clawless otter.
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00:11:47,507 --> 00:11:51,277
Characterized by its partly
webbed, clawless feet,
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00:11:51,277 --> 00:11:55,815
its diet includes crabs, fish,
frogs and even worms.
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00:12:00,787 --> 00:12:03,723
They use their
extremely sensitive whiskers
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00:12:03,723 --> 00:12:05,658
as sensors in the water
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00:12:05,658 --> 00:12:08,227
to pick up the movements
of potential prey.
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00:12:10,096 --> 00:12:12,165
Their front paws come in handy
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00:12:12,165 --> 00:12:15,335
when digging on the muddy
bottoms of ponds and rivers,
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00:12:15,335 --> 00:12:18,338
picking up rocks
and looking under logs.
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00:12:32,185 --> 00:12:36,289
They're playful creatures and
enjoy foraging as a group.
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00:12:38,291 --> 00:12:41,094
With plenty on offer
in the Orange river,
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00:12:41,094 --> 00:12:43,596
life thrives in large numbers.
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00:13:03,416 --> 00:13:05,485
Through its upper reaches
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00:13:05,485 --> 00:13:09,055
the Orange river cuts through
a range of habitats.
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00:13:12,592 --> 00:13:16,429
The morning light begins to
slowly heat the granite boulders
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00:13:16,429 --> 00:13:18,131
along its banks,
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00:13:21,334 --> 00:13:23,770
Enticing some hairy inhabitants
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to emerge from between
the cracks and crannies.
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The Rock hyraxes are awake.
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00:13:46,225 --> 00:13:48,094
As they do every morning
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00:13:48,094 --> 00:13:51,431
the colony assumes strategic
positions on the boulders,
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00:13:51,431 --> 00:13:53,599
soaking up the warm,
golden light
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and generating some energy
for the busy day ahead.
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00:14:02,341 --> 00:14:05,445
Although,
hyraxes are rarely busy.
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00:14:08,781 --> 00:14:11,584
Rock hyraxes
rest most of the time.
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00:14:14,687 --> 00:14:17,523
This is especially true
for the adults -
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00:14:17,523 --> 00:14:21,360
who enjoy a late morning sleep
on the warming rocks.
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00:14:29,235 --> 00:14:31,504
Although they resemble rodents,
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00:14:31,504 --> 00:14:36,142
hyraxes are in fact relatives of
the modern-day elephant -
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00:14:36,142 --> 00:14:40,613
evidenced by their pointed
tusk-like upper incisors.
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00:14:45,485 --> 00:14:49,088
The soles of their feet
have large, soft pads
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00:14:49,088 --> 00:14:52,725
that are kept moist
by sweat-like secretions.
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00:14:56,195 --> 00:14:59,465
Among the vigilant adults
are several babies.
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00:15:02,602 --> 00:15:05,238
They too
clamber out of the fractures
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00:15:05,238 --> 00:15:07,673
to soak up a bit of sun -
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00:15:07,673 --> 00:15:12,612
making good use
of their mother's soft fur.
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00:15:12,612 --> 00:15:15,181
Finding a position
that suits everybody
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00:15:15,181 --> 00:15:16,749
can be a difficult task.
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00:15:32,565 --> 00:15:38,638
Finally, the family unit absorbs
the suns energy in a big pile.
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00:15:46,512 --> 00:15:48,181
The peace is short-lived.
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00:15:48,181 --> 00:15:51,317
For the youngsters,
there's fun to be had.
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00:16:00,526 --> 00:16:04,297
After breakfast it's time to
explore their surroundings.
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00:16:13,272 --> 00:16:15,808
Hyraxes are expert climbers
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00:16:15,808 --> 00:16:19,445
and the babies, albeit
not as skilled as their parents,
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00:16:19,445 --> 00:16:21,314
are fast learners.
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00:16:23,749 --> 00:16:26,285
They clamber around the rocks
with ease -
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00:16:26,285 --> 00:16:29,222
often jumping
surprising distances.
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00:16:33,593 --> 00:16:36,062
As the river
continues to flow westward
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00:16:36,062 --> 00:16:37,763
on its journey to the Atlantic
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00:16:37,763 --> 00:16:41,200
it winds up towards the
border of Namibia,
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00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:45,438
where it cuts through the iconic
Augrabies National Park.
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Here, the river splits and
reforms - creating islands,
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00:16:58,751 --> 00:17:01,621
smoothed and polished
by the vigorous water
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00:17:01,621 --> 00:17:03,623
over the millennia.
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00:17:09,295 --> 00:17:12,398
Over time the river has cut
a deep gorge
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00:17:12,398 --> 00:17:14,700
into the ancient granite rock.
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00:17:32,218 --> 00:17:35,221
Gone is the calm,
amicable river.
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00:17:37,657 --> 00:17:40,559
Here the Orange
shows its true strength
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00:17:40,559 --> 00:17:43,596
in an angry display
of white water.
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00:17:45,765 --> 00:17:48,567
The river twists and turns
through the gorge
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00:17:48,567 --> 00:17:53,606
before blasting over the edge of
a 475 foot drop -
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00:17:55,241 --> 00:17:57,476
the Augrabies falls.
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00:18:27,340 --> 00:18:30,643
Taking its name from
the local Khoikhoi language,
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00:18:30,643 --> 00:18:34,313
"Ankoerabis"
means the place of big noises.
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00:18:38,617 --> 00:18:41,287
Mist rises up from the gorge -
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00:18:41,287 --> 00:18:44,190
spraying
the sun-soaked rocks above.
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Small black flies
swarm in their millions
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and provide an abundant food
source for some lucky predators.
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00:18:59,271 --> 00:19:04,477
Scores of Augrabies flat-lizard
emerge from the numerous cracks.
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00:19:09,115 --> 00:19:11,283
The females are drab in color,
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sporting only
the intricate patterns
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00:19:13,753 --> 00:19:16,222
down the length of their spine.
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00:19:22,728 --> 00:19:24,530
The male lizards however,
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are brightly colored -
with personalities to match.
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00:19:31,270 --> 00:19:34,640
They use these colorful scales
to signal dominance
170
00:19:34,640 --> 00:19:37,176
and settle territorial disputes.
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00:19:40,646 --> 00:19:43,082
When they aren't busy
catching flies
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00:19:43,082 --> 00:19:48,387
the males try to outbid each
other for prime patches of rock.
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00:19:54,326 --> 00:19:58,164
Assuming the push-up position,
they assert their dominance
174
00:19:58,164 --> 00:20:01,067
by showing off
their bright blue belly.
175
00:20:06,372 --> 00:20:09,108
This male has found
an unwanted contemporary
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in his stretch of territory.
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00:20:11,577 --> 00:20:14,280
A face-off ensues.
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00:20:15,848 --> 00:20:17,516
Circling each other,
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00:20:17,516 --> 00:20:20,419
the males flip their bellies up
from the side
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00:20:20,419 --> 00:20:22,688
to show off their colors.
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00:20:24,857 --> 00:20:27,760
If this isn't enough to scare
off the intruder,
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00:20:27,760 --> 00:20:30,496
drastic measures must be taken -
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00:20:31,764 --> 00:20:34,533
a good old-fashioned fight.
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00:20:43,309 --> 00:20:46,712
Their colors aren't only
to warn off other males.
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00:20:51,617 --> 00:20:53,686
Females that move
through their territory
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00:20:53,686 --> 00:20:55,821
immediately attract interest.
187
00:20:59,625 --> 00:21:01,794
The males
try to garner affection
188
00:21:01,794 --> 00:21:03,729
by walking around the females
189
00:21:03,729 --> 00:21:06,832
in an almost robotic,
plodding motion,
190
00:21:06,832 --> 00:21:08,601
showing off their colors.
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00:21:11,170 --> 00:21:14,273
This male
has been trying all morning.
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00:21:16,242 --> 00:21:18,410
His approach seems spot on,
193
00:21:18,410 --> 00:21:22,448
but his follow through leaves
something to be desired.
194
00:21:24,183 --> 00:21:28,187
A sharp bite on her tail
is not appreciated.
195
00:21:34,393 --> 00:21:36,862
With another courtship
gone to waste
196
00:21:36,862 --> 00:21:39,632
he returns
to his quest for food.
197
00:21:50,409 --> 00:21:53,746
Crossing the entire width of
Augrabies National Park,
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00:21:53,746 --> 00:21:57,316
the Orange finally emerges
from the rocky ravine
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00:21:57,316 --> 00:22:00,052
and spills out onto the land.
200
00:22:03,055 --> 00:22:06,759
Here the river begins to support
more and more vegetation.
201
00:22:16,835 --> 00:22:19,738
As the landscape blends
from boulder to bush,
202
00:22:19,738 --> 00:22:23,209
it attracts a myriad
of larger residents.
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00:22:28,113 --> 00:22:31,584
A family of giraffes
moves over the jagged landscape,
204
00:22:31,584 --> 00:22:33,052
looking for food.
205
00:22:35,120 --> 00:22:38,724
They seem out of place
in this rocky environment.
206
00:22:41,093 --> 00:22:43,729
The giraffes
have no predators here
207
00:22:43,729 --> 00:22:46,432
and roam freely, without worry.
208
00:23:00,646 --> 00:23:04,717
Unlike the giraffe,
Klipspringers are agile climbers
209
00:23:04,717 --> 00:23:07,586
and clamber
over the crags with ease.
210
00:23:13,659 --> 00:23:15,728
And their dappled brown coat
211
00:23:15,728 --> 00:23:18,264
helps to blend them
into their background.
212
00:23:21,467 --> 00:23:25,671
But they still must be wary.
213
00:23:25,671 --> 00:23:29,441
A male Klipspringer
is on the watch for predators.
214
00:23:30,843 --> 00:23:32,578
And for good reason,
215
00:23:32,578 --> 00:23:34,780
he has young to look out for.
216
00:23:45,457 --> 00:23:49,328
A sub-adult
has joined the family.
217
00:23:49,328 --> 00:23:51,830
An extra pair of eyes
is invaluable
218
00:23:51,830 --> 00:23:54,566
when danger lurks all around.
219
00:23:56,335 --> 00:24:00,172
A pair of Verreaux's eagles
patrols from above.
220
00:24:02,274 --> 00:24:07,313
A baby Klipspringer
would make an easy meal -
221
00:24:07,313 --> 00:24:10,316
but the hunters' presence
doesn't go unnoticed.
222
00:24:12,418 --> 00:24:15,087
The Klipspringers
stick close to the rocks,
223
00:24:15,087 --> 00:24:18,090
which offer both camouflage
and shelter.
224
00:24:35,341 --> 00:24:38,477
The vegetation even entices
the resident hyrax
225
00:24:38,477 --> 00:24:40,779
away from the refuge
of their boulders.
226
00:24:50,723 --> 00:24:55,127
The babies learn to forage by
imitating their parents -
227
00:24:55,127 --> 00:24:56,762
they're learning fast.
228
00:25:02,201 --> 00:25:06,472
And like the Klipspringers
they too must be vigilant.
229
00:25:19,284 --> 00:25:21,387
A sentry sounds the alarm.
230
00:25:23,389 --> 00:25:25,791
The hyraxes scatter quickly -
231
00:25:25,791 --> 00:25:28,160
abandoning their feeding grounds
232
00:25:28,160 --> 00:25:30,729
to take refuge
amongst the crags.
233
00:25:35,234 --> 00:25:38,237
Today,
the eagles will go hungry.
234
00:25:41,407 --> 00:25:44,410
Many eyes
make life a little easier.
235
00:25:54,386 --> 00:25:58,223
1,200 miles into its journey,
236
00:25:58,223 --> 00:26:01,493
the Orange river
enters the Richtersveld.
237
00:26:08,667 --> 00:26:11,103
This is an arid region,
238
00:26:11,103 --> 00:26:15,107
consisting of mountain deserts
and sandy plains.
239
00:26:20,279 --> 00:26:23,749
Though at its widest here,
the Orange river does little
240
00:26:23,749 --> 00:26:27,719
to quench the Richtersveld's
dry environment.
241
00:26:27,719 --> 00:26:33,058
Hundreds of miles downstream,
a far stronger body of water
242
00:26:33,058 --> 00:26:36,295
exerts
a much greater influence -
243
00:26:36,295 --> 00:26:40,165
one that leaves
this landscape dry.
244
00:26:41,800 --> 00:26:46,171
Cold water coupled with the
strong winds of the area,
245
00:26:46,171 --> 00:26:52,110
prevents onshore air from
accumulating much moisture.
246
00:26:52,110 --> 00:26:59,151
Thus, the land flanking the
ocean is a dry and barren place
247
00:26:59,151 --> 00:27:03,522
and moisture from the river does
little to quench its thirst.
248
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:12,097
So just a few hundred feet away
from the banks of the river,
249
00:27:12,097 --> 00:27:14,366
the land is parched .
250
00:27:48,734 --> 00:27:52,671
The landscape resembles a hot,
lonely planet
251
00:27:54,072 --> 00:27:56,475
one void of life.
252
00:28:03,482 --> 00:28:07,052
But nature finds a way,
even here.
253
00:28:09,388 --> 00:28:15,193
An alien plant - dry and
cracked, reaches up to the sun.
254
00:28:21,099 --> 00:28:24,102
Its branches, bulbous and bent.
255
00:28:31,109 --> 00:28:33,745
Its leaves, tough and juicy.
256
00:28:37,649 --> 00:28:41,787
This succulent plant is a
species of aloe tree -
257
00:28:41,787 --> 00:28:45,524
one of three species
that occur in this area.
258
00:28:53,498 --> 00:28:58,737
Its name, the Quiver tree, comes
from the indigenous San people,
259
00:28:58,737 --> 00:29:03,241
who used its branches as quivers
in which to carry their arrows.
260
00:29:07,179 --> 00:29:11,116
Many of these specimens
are over a century old.
261
00:29:13,619 --> 00:29:16,021
Their reflective, waxy bark
262
00:29:16,021 --> 00:29:18,957
helps them survive
in this harsh environment.
263
00:29:21,093 --> 00:29:23,295
Like their succulent leaves,
264
00:29:23,295 --> 00:29:26,331
the bark helps
to minimize water loss.
265
00:29:29,034 --> 00:29:33,205
There is little relief for the
inhabitants of the Richtersveld.
266
00:29:35,474 --> 00:29:39,678
Extreme conditions
require extreme adaptations.
267
00:29:43,281 --> 00:29:48,320
This spiny fat arm
belongs to the Halfmens -
268
00:29:48,320 --> 00:29:50,589
which means 'half-human'.
269
00:29:57,829 --> 00:30:02,367
These strange plants
have an ominous story.
270
00:30:04,369 --> 00:30:09,141
Legend has it that the Halfmens
are lost members of a tribe
271
00:30:09,141 --> 00:30:14,246
that escaped Namibia after
a terrible clash with invaders.
272
00:30:18,583 --> 00:30:22,254
After fleeing south
and crossing the Orange river,
273
00:30:22,254 --> 00:30:25,357
they ended up scattered
in the never-ending hills
274
00:30:25,357 --> 00:30:26,758
of the Richtersveld.
275
00:30:32,831 --> 00:30:36,668
Their hopes of ever returning
home were dashed,
276
00:30:36,668 --> 00:30:40,405
when their god
turned them into thorny plants -
277
00:30:40,405 --> 00:30:44,342
destined to stare longingly
to the north,
278
00:30:44,342 --> 00:30:46,712
where the land of
their ancestors lies.
279
00:31:09,267 --> 00:31:15,407
In these lower reaches, the
river is known as the !Gariep -
280
00:31:15,407 --> 00:31:19,411
which means 'great river'
in the local Nama language.
281
00:31:23,815 --> 00:31:27,319
The Nama have traversed this
region for centuries -
282
00:31:27,319 --> 00:31:29,254
their ancient etchings
283
00:31:29,254 --> 00:31:32,691
remain on the numerous rocks
that scatter the Richtersveld.
284
00:31:34,860 --> 00:31:39,030
But the stones themselves
tell a much older story.
285
00:31:42,634 --> 00:31:46,738
These rocks were forming
before Africa even existed.
286
00:31:49,574 --> 00:31:54,513
Their geological beginnings
stretch back two billion years -
287
00:31:54,513 --> 00:31:58,517
almost half the age
of Earth itself.
288
00:32:02,287 --> 00:32:06,625
Continuous volcanic activity
and successive intrusions
289
00:32:06,625 --> 00:32:08,827
have left a landscape consisting
290
00:32:08,827 --> 00:32:12,464
of more than 10 separate
geological groups.
291
00:32:17,235 --> 00:32:21,406
This complex geology
provides diverse habitats
292
00:32:21,406 --> 00:32:25,577
where an array of plant and
animal species can thrive.
293
00:32:30,615 --> 00:32:35,353
Creatures slither and creep
through the rugged terrain.
294
00:33:03,815 --> 00:33:08,587
Even here, Klipspringers easily
navigate their way to food.
295
00:33:16,194 --> 00:33:18,563
A family
of Cape ground squirrels
296
00:33:18,563 --> 00:33:21,600
searches among the stones
for insects.
297
00:33:34,813 --> 00:33:38,817
Separated from the river by the
Richtersveld's jagged mountains,
298
00:33:38,817 --> 00:33:41,353
there's nothing
for them to drink
299
00:33:41,353 --> 00:33:46,725
so they have to get their daily
water from the food they eat.
300
00:33:52,364 --> 00:33:56,234
While the family forages -
a guard keeps a look out.
301
00:34:07,812 --> 00:34:11,583
Staying close to the burrow
is a good bet for safety.
302
00:34:25,463 --> 00:34:27,132
Lying on the plains
303
00:34:27,132 --> 00:34:29,467
are the quartz fields
of the Richtersveld.
304
00:34:37,842 --> 00:34:42,180
Over the millennia, large,
fractured rock has broken down
305
00:34:42,180 --> 00:34:46,184
to form a beautiful carpet
of white pebbles.
306
00:34:54,859 --> 00:34:56,628
Between the stones
307
00:34:56,628 --> 00:34:59,764
are some of the best examples
of succulent diversity
308
00:34:59,764 --> 00:35:01,666
in southern Africa.
309
00:35:08,106 --> 00:35:11,376
Each plant
stranger than the last.
310
00:35:15,747 --> 00:35:18,149
Some make use of camouflage -
311
00:35:18,149 --> 00:35:20,552
mimicking the gravel
that lies around them.
312
00:35:22,387 --> 00:35:25,757
But one rock
seems livelier than the rest.
313
00:35:30,195 --> 00:35:34,265
A Stone grasshopper moves
amongst the pebbles.
314
00:35:38,737 --> 00:35:41,206
His textured exoskeleton
315
00:35:41,206 --> 00:35:45,010
leaves him all but invisible
to potential predators.
316
00:35:48,079 --> 00:35:51,683
The landscape
has become his greatest defense.
317
00:36:08,666 --> 00:36:11,036
Occasionally
a small amount of water
318
00:36:11,036 --> 00:36:13,505
does reach
the highest mountaintops
319
00:36:13,505 --> 00:36:15,507
in the form of mist.
320
00:36:15,507 --> 00:36:17,475
And when it does
321
00:36:17,475 --> 00:36:21,479
it provides plants and animals
with enough moisture to exist.
322
00:36:29,354 --> 00:36:33,525
Bulbous Butter trees grow
323
00:36:33,525 --> 00:36:38,129
and flowering plants
add a magical splash of color.
324
00:36:47,372 --> 00:36:49,174
Though far from abundant,
325
00:36:49,174 --> 00:36:53,144
this water leaves its scars on
the rocky plains below.
326
00:36:55,380 --> 00:36:58,850
Dry riverbeds stretch across
the stony flats -
327
00:36:58,850 --> 00:37:00,618
carved into the earth
328
00:37:00,618 --> 00:37:04,389
by the rare flash floods
that occur here.
329
00:37:13,098 --> 00:37:18,069
Small holes pepper the baked
earth of the dry riverbank.
330
00:37:21,606 --> 00:37:25,276
One by one, hundreds of
Brown-throated martins
331
00:37:25,276 --> 00:37:28,213
shoot out of their nests.
332
00:37:33,485 --> 00:37:36,121
These inconspicuous little birds
333
00:37:36,121 --> 00:37:38,756
start their morning
with a bit of sun soaking
334
00:37:38,756 --> 00:37:40,692
and a social catch-up.
335
00:37:45,430 --> 00:37:48,700
There are few places
to perch here - and each spot
336
00:37:48,700 --> 00:37:50,568
is highly contested.
337
00:37:56,107 --> 00:38:00,211
Having secured a spot it's time
to get every feather in place.
338
00:38:04,649 --> 00:38:09,254
Once preened to perfection
they can test out their wings.
339
00:38:15,160 --> 00:38:17,428
The martins are highly sociable
340
00:38:17,428 --> 00:38:20,098
and enjoy a spot
of playful flight.
341
00:38:23,501 --> 00:38:25,436
Constantly communicating,
342
00:38:25,436 --> 00:38:29,507
the twittering chatter of the
birds fills the air by the nest.
343
00:38:32,277 --> 00:38:34,145
But danger lurks.
344
00:38:37,182 --> 00:38:40,318
In the heat of the day,
an ominous character appears
345
00:38:40,318 --> 00:38:43,121
from out of a dark cave
in the riverbank.
346
00:38:48,526 --> 00:38:52,063
A Nile monitor:
a formidable predator.
347
00:38:53,398 --> 00:38:56,534
Using his forked tongue
to sniff the air -
348
00:38:56,534 --> 00:38:59,504
he gathers information
about potential meals
349
00:38:59,504 --> 00:39:01,739
that may be nearby.
350
00:39:01,739 --> 00:39:05,109
Nile monitors
are not fussy eaters
351
00:39:05,109 --> 00:39:07,645
and they love birds' eggs.
352
00:39:12,650 --> 00:39:14,452
But being ectothermic,
353
00:39:14,452 --> 00:39:18,489
he must warm up
before attempting any activity.
354
00:39:22,026 --> 00:39:25,330
Today is apparently not the day
to go hunting.
355
00:39:31,069 --> 00:39:33,271
Having caught
enough sun for now,
356
00:39:33,271 --> 00:39:35,506
the monitor returns to his cave.
357
00:39:47,118 --> 00:39:50,154
The martins however
are ready for action.
358
00:39:55,693 --> 00:39:57,662
Their destination
359
00:39:57,662 --> 00:39:59,397
the Orange river.
360
00:40:12,176 --> 00:40:15,480
Martins are usually found
foraging near water.
361
00:40:16,514 --> 00:40:18,583
Their short, wide bills
362
00:40:18,583 --> 00:40:22,353
are the perfect tools
for snatching up tiny insects.
363
00:40:27,592 --> 00:40:31,462
These small birds show
extreme dexterity on the wing.
364
00:40:38,303 --> 00:40:41,306
And miraculously avoid
mid-air collisions.
365
00:40:53,751 --> 00:40:55,720
In its last few miles
366
00:40:55,720 --> 00:40:59,624
the river reaches its final
stages and approaches the coast.
367
00:41:01,626 --> 00:41:06,197
Signs of the oceans presence
start to appear on the hilltops.
368
00:41:18,609 --> 00:41:21,412
A mystical tapestry
covers the land,
369
00:41:21,412 --> 00:41:23,548
showing signs of relief.
370
00:41:25,350 --> 00:41:28,653
These are the lichen fields
of Alexander bay.
371
00:41:32,256 --> 00:41:36,227
Lichen is neither a plant
nor an animal.
372
00:41:40,198 --> 00:41:44,102
Rather, it's a community of
microscopic algae and fungi,
373
00:41:44,102 --> 00:41:46,504
living together in symbiosis.
374
00:41:49,440 --> 00:41:51,175
In amongst the fuzz,
375
00:41:51,175 --> 00:41:53,544
strange plants grow
in the protection
376
00:41:53,544 --> 00:41:56,047
of this rusty green blanket.
377
00:42:00,318 --> 00:42:03,454
As do many small,
inconspicuous creatures.
378
00:42:10,294 --> 00:42:13,564
Lichens thrive here because of
a source of moisture
379
00:42:13,564 --> 00:42:17,568
that rolls in from the sea.
380
00:42:17,568 --> 00:42:22,473
When the ocean fog arrives,
it comes in thick and fast.
381
00:42:26,711 --> 00:42:28,546
Within minutes,
382
00:42:28,546 --> 00:42:32,650
it can block out the sun
and envelope the lichen fields.
383
00:42:50,601 --> 00:42:52,370
Bringing life to the plants
384
00:42:52,370 --> 00:42:54,872
and the collection
of strange residents
385
00:42:54,872 --> 00:42:57,308
that call these fields home.
386
00:43:13,157 --> 00:43:17,261
After a 1,200 mile journey
387
00:43:17,261 --> 00:43:19,564
through ever changing landscapes
388
00:43:19,564 --> 00:43:23,201
the Orange river
finally purges its contents
389
00:43:23,201 --> 00:43:25,770
into the Atlantic Ocean.
390
00:43:35,079 --> 00:43:40,685
The river discharges almost 3
billion gallons of water a year.
391
00:43:45,523 --> 00:43:48,826
Having travelled across
two thirds of South Africa,
392
00:43:48,826 --> 00:43:53,264
the great Orange river fans out
into its delta
393
00:43:53,264 --> 00:43:56,400
before spilling into the sea.
394
00:43:59,504 --> 00:44:02,640
Flamingoes and water birds
flock to the mouth
395
00:44:02,640 --> 00:44:06,177
to sift through
the nutrient-rich waters.
396
00:44:25,563 --> 00:44:28,165
The Orange river has traversed
397
00:44:28,165 --> 00:44:31,168
an entire continent
on its journey.
398
00:44:34,305 --> 00:44:36,207
And has run a lifeline
399
00:44:36,207 --> 00:44:40,411
through some of South Africa's
harshest environments.
400
00:44:43,814 --> 00:44:45,750
From source to sea,
401
00:44:45,750 --> 00:44:50,688
it has played host to countless
wild and wonderful creatures.
402
00:44:54,859 --> 00:44:58,729
And left its scars on rocks
that have born witness
403
00:44:58,729 --> 00:45:02,133
to the geological history
of Africa.
404
00:45:05,603 --> 00:45:09,073
In a land without relief
405
00:45:09,073 --> 00:45:11,776
This waterway is a welcome gift
406
00:45:11,776 --> 00:45:15,046
to South Africa's
thirsty inhabitants.
407
00:45:29,427 --> 00:45:32,563
Breathing life into the desert,
408
00:45:35,132 --> 00:45:39,070
the Orange river
is a sanctuary,
409
00:45:40,805 --> 00:45:44,008
a Linear Oasis.
32671
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