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I'm on a journey across North Korea
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00:00:05,060 --> 00:00:09,340
and after a week, it's time for me
to leave the capital, Pyongyang.
3
00:00:12,060 --> 00:00:13,500
On my way,
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00:00:13,500 --> 00:00:17,100
I pass under the imposing
Arch of Reunification.
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00:00:19,260 --> 00:00:21,380
Wow!
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00:00:24,180 --> 00:00:25,700
That's impressive.
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00:00:25,700 --> 00:00:29,940
Reunification of Korea might be the
aim for the leadership,
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00:00:29,940 --> 00:00:34,100
but the reality is this is still
a country divided.
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00:00:38,300 --> 00:00:40,340
North Korea.
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00:00:40,340 --> 00:00:42,300
It's a brutal dictatorship,
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00:00:42,300 --> 00:00:46,540
a country shrouded in mystery,
suspicion and fear.
12
00:00:46,540 --> 00:00:48,300
But after a week...
13
00:00:48,300 --> 00:00:49,540
Wow!
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00:00:49,540 --> 00:00:53,220
..I think I'm getting past
the stereotypes.
15
00:00:53,220 --> 00:00:57,780
This is a cultural where reverence
to the great leaders is all.
16
00:00:57,780 --> 00:01:02,060
And the sense of mass unity
is so strong.
17
00:01:04,820 --> 00:01:07,860
And now I've gained access to areas
of the country
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00:01:07,860 --> 00:01:10,260
that are normally off-limits
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00:01:10,260 --> 00:01:13,660
to understand the war
that divided Korea...
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00:01:13,660 --> 00:01:16,540
It's interesting to hear
your side of it,
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00:01:16,540 --> 00:01:19,820
because we were told we had won
and you believed you had won.
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00:01:19,820 --> 00:01:23,140
..to learn about its ancient past,
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00:01:23,140 --> 00:01:27,140
and what the leadership claims it
has planned for the future.
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00:01:27,140 --> 00:01:30,580
This street was all built in a year.
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00:01:30,580 --> 00:01:32,940
Travelling away from cities,
I'll be meeting the people
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00:01:32,940 --> 00:01:36,060
of rural North Korea.
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00:01:36,060 --> 00:01:38,420
So that's your older brother?
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00:01:38,420 --> 00:01:39,620
What do you want to do?
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00:01:41,660 --> 00:01:44,820
Once again, I'll be accompanied
by local guides
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00:01:44,820 --> 00:01:49,060
but maybe they're the ones who
will reveal the real North Korea.
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00:01:49,060 --> 00:01:53,420
Criticising our leaders is like
criticising ourselves.
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A land of mountain ranges, beaches
and forests.
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I'm about to discover a very
different side of the DPRK.
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00:02:12,340 --> 00:02:14,700
Opened in 2001,
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00:02:14,700 --> 00:02:18,220
the 30-metre-tall
Arch of Reunification
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00:02:18,220 --> 00:02:21,260
represents the great leader
Kim Il-sung's dream
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00:02:21,260 --> 00:02:25,100
of reunifying North
and South Korea.
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00:02:28,380 --> 00:02:31,420
It's also the starting point of
the road that will take me
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00:02:31,420 --> 00:02:34,300
directly to the border.
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00:02:34,300 --> 00:02:40,020
And so far, traffic doesn't seem
to be a problem.
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00:02:40,020 --> 00:02:42,260
This is the Reunification Highway
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00:02:42,260 --> 00:02:48,740
which runs about 100 miles from
Pyongyang to the Demilitarised Zone.
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00:02:49,980 --> 00:02:54,980
Well, I suppose sadly because
reunification hasn't happened yet,
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this road is almost empty.
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00:02:57,380 --> 00:03:01,860
There's hardly a single vehicle on
a six-lane highway.
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00:03:01,860 --> 00:03:04,860
Miles of empty road.
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00:03:07,300 --> 00:03:12,620
I'm heading 100 miles south to the
DMZ, the Demilitarised Zone,
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00:03:12,620 --> 00:03:14,940
a 2.5-mile-wide border
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00:03:14,940 --> 00:03:18,060
that splits the Korean peninsula
in two.
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00:03:19,540 --> 00:03:21,180
With me are my two guides,
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00:03:21,180 --> 00:03:23,940
Kyung-chul and Soo-young.
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00:03:26,300 --> 00:03:28,500
After three hours,
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00:03:28,500 --> 00:03:30,900
we arrive
at the Joint Security Area,
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00:03:30,900 --> 00:03:33,460
the one place on the DMZ
55
00:03:33,460 --> 00:03:37,180
where you can cross from one side
of Korea to the other.
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00:03:37,180 --> 00:03:41,380
Looking after me is the rather
intimidating Senior Lieutenant
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00:03:41,380 --> 00:03:43,500
Hwang Myong Jin.
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00:03:58,900 --> 00:04:01,340
The Demilitarised Zone
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00:04:01,340 --> 00:04:04,860
was created as a result of the
Korean War in the 1950s.
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00:04:04,860 --> 00:04:07,140
Like most people in the West,
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00:04:07,140 --> 00:04:10,740
I learned that the war started when
North Korea invaded South Korea,
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00:04:10,740 --> 00:04:14,420
who were then defended by the UN
and America.
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00:04:14,420 --> 00:04:17,620
But the Senior Lieutenant
sees it rather differently.
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00:04:35,100 --> 00:04:36,140
Mm.
65
00:04:40,100 --> 00:04:42,940
But really, nobody won
the Korean War.
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00:04:42,940 --> 00:04:47,420
There's just been a ceasefire
for over 60 years.
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00:04:47,420 --> 00:04:52,340
It's interesting to hear
your side of it,
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00:04:52,340 --> 00:04:58,180
because I was 10 years old when
the war, the armistice, ended
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00:04:58,180 --> 00:05:02,500
the conflict in 1953, and we were
told we had won.
70
00:05:02,500 --> 00:05:06,420
And you believed you had won,
so there we are.
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00:05:21,060 --> 00:05:25,020
Well, I would say there are wolves
on both sides, so it's a...
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00:05:27,260 --> 00:05:29,180
Neither side won.
73
00:05:32,500 --> 00:05:35,580
Our minders are not particularly
happy with me
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00:05:35,580 --> 00:05:37,540
questioning who won the war.
75
00:05:37,540 --> 00:05:40,020
So we walk on, to what is probably
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00:05:40,020 --> 00:05:43,100
the most militarily and politically
sensitive area
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00:05:43,100 --> 00:05:45,460
in the whole
of the Korean Peninsula.
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00:05:47,060 --> 00:05:50,180
These blue UN conference rooms
are the only place
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00:05:50,180 --> 00:05:54,260
you can walk between North
and South Korea.
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00:05:54,260 --> 00:05:57,060
The borders marked by the raised
concrete line
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00:05:57,060 --> 00:05:58,620
in the middle of the huts.
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00:06:07,860 --> 00:06:10,620
I've been here once before,
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00:06:10,620 --> 00:06:14,220
from the other side. 1996.
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00:06:14,220 --> 00:06:18,500
22 years ago,
while filming in South Korea,
85
00:06:18,500 --> 00:06:22,060
I stood on the other side of the
border as part of a tour group.
86
00:06:22,060 --> 00:06:27,540
Escorted by American soldiers, North
Korea seemed an impenetrable land,
87
00:06:27,540 --> 00:06:30,300
but I've always wanted to see it
for myself.
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00:06:30,300 --> 00:06:32,500
If you wish to make a crossing
into North Korea,
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00:06:32,500 --> 00:06:34,260
please do so at that end
of the table.
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00:06:35,780 --> 00:06:37,620
North Korea.
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00:06:39,420 --> 00:06:41,500
And more than two decades on,
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00:06:41,500 --> 00:06:45,500
here I am, this time crossing from
North to South.
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00:06:45,500 --> 00:06:49,060
The atmosphere is still tense.
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00:06:56,380 --> 00:06:59,780
So this is 22 years later.
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00:06:59,780 --> 00:07:02,380
I remember thinking then that,
you know,
96
00:07:02,380 --> 00:07:05,220
it was like it was presented as
a blank wall there
97
00:07:05,220 --> 00:07:09,460
from which you would get no
response at all,
98
00:07:09,460 --> 00:07:11,900
and yet, I felt I wanted
to know more.
99
00:07:11,900 --> 00:07:14,980
You have to know more. You can't
just have one side of the story.
100
00:07:14,980 --> 00:07:16,900
You've got to look at the other side
of the story,
101
00:07:16,900 --> 00:07:19,900
so it's rather...
102
00:07:19,900 --> 00:07:24,300
I'm rather pleased that I'm given
the chance,
103
00:07:24,300 --> 00:07:28,940
have been given the chance, today
to see the other side as well.
104
00:07:28,940 --> 00:07:33,340
So, this time, I don't have
to go back
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00:07:33,340 --> 00:07:37,020
and out the door as we did before
with our large group of people.
106
00:07:37,020 --> 00:07:40,620
I can come in on my own,
107
00:07:40,620 --> 00:07:42,900
I can walk over into North Korea
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00:07:42,900 --> 00:07:46,340
and I can stay here for a bit,
and probably have my lunch here.
109
00:07:48,060 --> 00:07:51,340
And that's that. I think that's...
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00:07:51,340 --> 00:07:55,540
I feel that's an achievement of
some kind,
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00:07:55,540 --> 00:07:57,140
for all of us.
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00:07:58,620 --> 00:08:03,300
Sadly, these huts represent
a massive failure of diplomacy,
113
00:08:03,300 --> 00:08:07,380
and since 1953, North Korea
has found it necessary
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00:08:07,380 --> 00:08:11,060
to create one of the biggest armies
in the world.
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00:08:11,060 --> 00:08:15,820
It reportedly spends 25%
of its GDP on the military
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00:08:15,820 --> 00:08:19,380
and its notorious nuclear weapons
programme.
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00:08:19,380 --> 00:08:22,580
None of this makes
for good small talk.
118
00:08:22,580 --> 00:08:26,220
The nuclear warheads
and nuclear missiles
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00:08:26,220 --> 00:08:30,100
have cost your country a lot of
money to develop.
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00:08:38,860 --> 00:08:44,500
Hopefully, there are signs that
there may be a change in relations
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00:08:44,500 --> 00:08:48,540
between your side and America.
122
00:08:48,540 --> 00:08:50,140
Is this good news?
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00:08:55,340 --> 00:08:59,140
Well, I hope that people recognise
124
00:08:59,140 --> 00:09:04,860
that we don't really need wars and
armies and weapons.
125
00:09:04,860 --> 00:09:07,620
We should understand each other
by meeting each other,
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00:09:07,620 --> 00:09:10,660
talking to each other,
sharing our experience,
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00:09:10,660 --> 00:09:13,460
rather than fighting each other.
128
00:09:13,460 --> 00:09:15,300
It's a simple message
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00:09:15,300 --> 00:09:18,180
and I hope one day,
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00:09:18,180 --> 00:09:20,420
more people will understand it!
131
00:09:27,140 --> 00:09:29,900
Well, it's good to meet you
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00:09:29,900 --> 00:09:33,060
and I hope you're successful with
no more loss of life.
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00:09:37,300 --> 00:09:40,140
After this, the guide
seemed to relax.
134
00:09:40,140 --> 00:09:44,340
If only the real peace talks could
end this well.
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00:09:44,340 --> 00:09:46,220
A sad legacy of the Korean War
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00:09:46,220 --> 00:09:50,460
is that most of North Korea was
destroyed by American bombing
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00:09:50,460 --> 00:09:53,740
leaving few reminders of what was
here before.
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00:09:55,620 --> 00:09:58,060
But just a couple of miles away
from the DMZ
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00:09:58,060 --> 00:10:03,220
is a town that 1,000 years ago
was the capital of Korea.
140
00:10:07,780 --> 00:10:11,180
This is Kaesong.
141
00:10:13,660 --> 00:10:17,180
During the Korean War, it was part
of South Korea
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00:10:17,180 --> 00:10:19,300
so was spared bombardment.
143
00:10:24,660 --> 00:10:26,100
Now part of the North,
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00:10:26,100 --> 00:10:27,980
this city, and my hotel,
145
00:10:27,980 --> 00:10:31,420
make me feel like I've arrived in a
totally different century.
146
00:10:31,420 --> 00:10:33,220
Ah!
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00:10:33,220 --> 00:10:36,340
That looks nice and cosy,
doesn't it? It's good.
148
00:10:42,380 --> 00:10:46,220
The buildings in the hotel
are over 100 years old,
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00:10:46,220 --> 00:10:49,660
and as night falls, the guides and I
are entertained
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00:10:49,660 --> 00:10:51,940
by a night of Korean traditions.
151
00:10:51,940 --> 00:10:56,740
They're now bashing the boiled rice
to make it more sticky.
152
00:10:56,740 --> 00:11:01,020
Ah. This is an old tradition, is it?
Yes.
153
00:11:01,020 --> 00:11:03,300
Go on, show me how you...
154
00:11:03,300 --> 00:11:06,380
This actually is an unusual
opportunity for us to do this.
155
00:11:06,380 --> 00:11:10,060
Show me your muscles. Yeah, you're
in good form, you're in good shape.
156
00:11:10,060 --> 00:11:11,900
Soo-young, be careful.
157
00:11:15,860 --> 00:11:18,380
You know, you're fantastic.
158
00:11:21,500 --> 00:11:24,500
There's more on your mallet
than there is on the... Wow!
159
00:11:26,820 --> 00:11:28,580
Just see how heavy it is. Oh, yeah.
160
00:11:28,580 --> 00:11:30,860
You have to do it with this hand.
OK.
161
00:11:33,580 --> 00:11:35,780
Oh! Oh! I think that's...
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00:11:35,780 --> 00:11:40,020
Actually, I've got a doctor's note.
Bad shoulder.
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00:11:42,460 --> 00:11:44,060
Yes. Oh! Take a bite.
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00:11:44,060 --> 00:11:47,620
Mm.
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00:11:47,620 --> 00:11:50,820
That took great efforts
to bash this.
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00:11:50,820 --> 00:11:55,020
Yes, actually, still got the marks
of your mouth on this.
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00:11:58,180 --> 00:12:01,340
Kaesong has taken me back to
North Korea's past
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00:12:01,340 --> 00:12:04,420
but, tomorrow, I'll be travelling
towards its future.
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00:12:15,060 --> 00:12:19,860
The next morning, it's time to leave
North Korea's history behind us.
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00:12:22,060 --> 00:12:25,940
We're driving 300 miles
to the beach town of Wonsan,
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00:12:25,940 --> 00:12:29,940
a place which could play a large
role in the DPRK of tomorrow.
172
00:12:32,660 --> 00:12:34,620
But the roads are getting worse.
173
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Just about, sort of, halfway now.
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00:12:39,980 --> 00:12:42,380
This is the...main road.
175
00:12:43,700 --> 00:12:46,540
And, yet, it's pretty rough.
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The surfaces can be quite bouncy.
177
00:13:03,860 --> 00:13:05,780
I have this slightly...
178
00:13:07,100 --> 00:13:09,780
You were nodding off there,
weren't you? No. No?
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00:13:09,780 --> 00:13:13,740
I do. I do. I'm surprised
you can sleep on the road like this.
180
00:13:16,300 --> 00:13:19,860
Winding through the mountains
with the sea at the end of it,
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00:13:19,860 --> 00:13:21,460
it's quite an adventure.
182
00:13:21,460 --> 00:13:24,340
I associate the sea with holidays.
183
00:13:24,340 --> 00:13:27,700
Do you have summer holidays here,
as well?
184
00:13:27,700 --> 00:13:31,260
Holidays when you go away
with your families?
185
00:13:31,260 --> 00:13:34,380
Oh, we working people have
15 days vacation
186
00:13:34,380 --> 00:13:37,740
and we can choose any day.
187
00:13:39,700 --> 00:13:42,500
I go...to...
188
00:13:42,500 --> 00:13:45,780
I usually go to the sea, beach,
with my friends.
189
00:13:45,780 --> 00:13:50,260
Do you go with your family?
I mean, like your mother and father?
190
00:13:50,260 --> 00:13:54,100
Yeah, I got married last year,
in February, so...
191
00:13:55,540 --> 00:13:58,340
Oh, there she is!
It's his wife. He can't get away.
192
00:14:02,540 --> 00:14:05,100
After a fairly tortuous four hours,
193
00:14:06,580 --> 00:14:09,780
we arrive in
the coastal town of Wonsan.
194
00:14:09,780 --> 00:14:12,940
A city at the centre
of Kim Jong-un's plans
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00:14:12,940 --> 00:14:15,660
to transform
the North Korean economy.
196
00:14:17,020 --> 00:14:20,020
Palin. Mr Palin? Thank you.
197
00:14:27,140 --> 00:14:29,660
I'm hoping the ping-pong
won't keep me up.
198
00:14:40,380 --> 00:14:44,020
North Korea might be a country
that has closed itself
199
00:14:44,020 --> 00:14:45,740
from the outside world,
200
00:14:45,740 --> 00:14:49,980
but, paradoxically,
it's also trying to restyle itself
201
00:14:49,980 --> 00:14:52,420
as an international
beach destination.
202
00:14:54,100 --> 00:14:57,980
A few miles away from my hotel,
Kim Jong-un has ambitious plans
203
00:14:57,980 --> 00:15:01,540
to turn Wonsan into the
Costa Del Korea.
204
00:15:13,580 --> 00:15:16,900
There's a huge construction project
here in Wonsan
205
00:15:16,900 --> 00:15:19,100
to create a new resort
206
00:15:19,100 --> 00:15:22,260
and a massive amount of workers
have been brought in to the city
207
00:15:22,260 --> 00:15:25,580
and these women here
are here every morning,
208
00:15:25,580 --> 00:15:27,540
and other groups all over the city,
209
00:15:27,540 --> 00:15:32,380
to encourage the workers
to build this extraordinary place
210
00:15:32,380 --> 00:15:34,180
in extraordinarily fast time.
211
00:15:37,580 --> 00:15:40,100
I can't see it happening for HS2.
But...
212
00:15:41,420 --> 00:15:43,140
Maybe they'll learn a thing or two.
213
00:15:46,180 --> 00:15:49,020
Holidays to North Korea might
sound unlikely
214
00:15:49,020 --> 00:15:52,460
but it's already a popular
destination for the Chinese
215
00:15:52,460 --> 00:15:56,780
and international tourism is seen
as a potential future growth area.
216
00:15:58,700 --> 00:16:02,020
This huge development
of luxury beach hotels,
217
00:16:02,020 --> 00:16:04,500
conference centres,
and golf courses,
218
00:16:04,500 --> 00:16:06,900
should be completed by the end
of 2019.
219
00:16:08,020 --> 00:16:10,100
Book now to avoid disappointment.
220
00:16:10,100 --> 00:16:13,940
And visitors won't have to endure
a four-hour drive to get here.
221
00:16:13,940 --> 00:16:17,700
Because they've already built
an international airport.
222
00:16:21,060 --> 00:16:25,020
It's already to go. There's even
the first advert I've seen here.
223
00:16:27,380 --> 00:16:29,500
But there's a distinct lack
of passengers.
224
00:16:31,500 --> 00:16:33,380
Or planes.
225
00:16:36,100 --> 00:16:39,460
What makes this Marie Celeste
of airports even more bizarre
226
00:16:39,460 --> 00:16:42,620
is that all the shops and bars
are fully staffed.
227
00:16:42,620 --> 00:16:44,220
Despite there being no customers.
228
00:16:49,060 --> 00:16:51,500
I suspect they're here
for our benefit.
229
00:16:56,460 --> 00:17:00,940
Nothing has confounded my
expectations of DPRK
230
00:17:00,940 --> 00:17:04,860
as much as this gleaming new airport
231
00:17:04,860 --> 00:17:08,100
and it seems to me
it's a statement of intent.
232
00:17:09,220 --> 00:17:12,420
That DPRK is going out to the world.
233
00:17:12,420 --> 00:17:14,020
"Come here."
234
00:17:14,020 --> 00:17:16,300
In order to fill this place
they've got to have people
235
00:17:16,300 --> 00:17:18,340
from all over the world
coming to the country.
236
00:17:18,340 --> 00:17:21,940
So, it means that the country itself
will have to be seen
237
00:17:21,940 --> 00:17:25,460
by the rest of the world
as the benign and welcoming hosts,
238
00:17:25,460 --> 00:17:27,220
rather than, you know, possible...
239
00:17:28,260 --> 00:17:29,820
..bad boy.
240
00:17:36,540 --> 00:17:40,460
But I wonder if international
tourists will want to travel
241
00:17:40,460 --> 00:17:45,100
to a country that is renowned for
food shortages, famine, and poverty?
242
00:17:49,580 --> 00:17:52,460
With a landscape that is
three-quarters mountain,
243
00:17:52,460 --> 00:17:56,340
North Korea has always struggled to
produce enough food for its people.
244
00:17:59,620 --> 00:18:02,540
This is the Cheongsam
cooperative farm.
245
00:18:02,540 --> 00:18:07,020
A few miles outside of Wonsan
and I'm joining farmer Kim Jang-hui
246
00:18:07,020 --> 00:18:08,780
in the fields.
247
00:18:11,060 --> 00:18:12,980
OK. Michael.
248
00:18:12,980 --> 00:18:14,540
Thank you.
249
00:18:14,540 --> 00:18:16,820
You show me. OK.
250
00:18:18,100 --> 00:18:20,260
Is it rice that you grow, mostly?
251
00:18:31,340 --> 00:18:36,140
Due to a lack of machinery and fuel,
most farm work is done by hand.
252
00:18:41,020 --> 00:18:44,140
Yeah, a lot of that. That's on top?
You're putting it on top. Yes.
253
00:18:45,740 --> 00:18:47,500
How am I doing? All right?
254
00:18:57,340 --> 00:18:59,900
Oh, well. That's honest.
255
00:18:59,900 --> 00:19:01,140
That's honest.
256
00:19:05,180 --> 00:19:07,780
North Korea's food shortages
hit their peak
257
00:19:07,780 --> 00:19:12,020
in the mid-1990s, thanks to
a fatal combination of flooding,
258
00:19:12,020 --> 00:19:16,020
and the end of food imports from
the collapsing Soviet Union.
259
00:19:16,020 --> 00:19:21,140
Aid agencies estimate more than
a million people starved to death.
260
00:19:22,300 --> 00:19:24,860
And it's something
I'd been warned not to bring up.
261
00:19:25,940 --> 00:19:28,020
We...
262
00:19:28,020 --> 00:19:32,020
We remember hearing in the West
that you had a very bad shortage
263
00:19:32,020 --> 00:19:34,140
of food in the 1990s.
264
00:19:35,140 --> 00:19:38,260
Are things much better now? I'm
265
00:19:44,660 --> 00:19:47,860
starting to get used to
North Koreans shutting down
266
00:19:47,860 --> 00:19:50,580
when I ask uncomfortable questions.
267
00:19:50,580 --> 00:19:54,260
Food supplies might be getting
better but malnutrition
268
00:19:54,260 --> 00:19:57,140
is widely reported and though
the government may not like to
269
00:19:57,140 --> 00:20:00,940
admit it, the country still requires
tens of thousands of tonnes
270
00:20:00,940 --> 00:20:03,820
of food aid each year.
271
00:20:03,820 --> 00:20:05,980
This is your house. It's very nice.
272
00:20:07,460 --> 00:20:08,500
Very good.
273
00:20:13,300 --> 00:20:14,900
Ah!
274
00:20:14,900 --> 00:20:16,340
Is this your son?
275
00:20:19,660 --> 00:20:22,900
Nice to meet you. Very nice to meet
you. Oh, very good.
276
00:20:23,940 --> 00:20:25,620
English. Yeah.
277
00:20:25,620 --> 00:20:27,620
A-ha. Thank you.
278
00:20:27,620 --> 00:20:28,940
Mm.
279
00:20:28,940 --> 00:20:32,500
Very nice and comfortable.
280
00:20:38,660 --> 00:20:39,980
Oh, really?
281
00:20:41,220 --> 00:20:45,660
Yes. So they are.
So, that's your older brother? Yes.
282
00:20:45,660 --> 00:20:47,660
What do you want to do?
283
00:20:47,660 --> 00:20:49,260
Army? Oh, well.
284
00:20:59,180 --> 00:21:00,260
Yeah.
285
00:21:02,660 --> 00:21:05,980
Jang-hui offers to make me
some food.
286
00:21:05,980 --> 00:21:08,940
So I offer my services
as an English teacher.
287
00:21:09,980 --> 00:21:11,780
And what's that? Clock.
288
00:21:11,780 --> 00:21:13,900
Clock. Brilliant.
289
00:21:15,300 --> 00:21:17,900
And... What's that?
290
00:21:19,100 --> 00:21:21,100
Hand.
291
00:21:21,100 --> 00:21:23,020
Hand. Put out your hand.
292
00:21:23,020 --> 00:21:27,580
There you are. Hand. Hand. Yeah. My
hand. Your hand. Hand. That's good.
293
00:21:27,580 --> 00:21:29,020
Yeah.
294
00:21:30,780 --> 00:21:32,540
And... Let's see.
295
00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:33,860
What's that?
296
00:21:35,580 --> 00:21:36,580
Tree. Tree.
297
00:21:37,620 --> 00:21:39,740
Hey, brilliant. That's great.
298
00:21:40,980 --> 00:21:42,740
Before I leave the farm,
299
00:21:42,740 --> 00:21:46,060
my host is very insistent
I try some local food.
300
00:21:46,060 --> 00:21:50,900
Oh, this is your kimchi. Yes.
Kimchi. Ah, lovely. Yes. Thank you.
301
00:21:52,060 --> 00:21:54,980
Under the watchful eye
of the great leaders.
302
00:21:59,700 --> 00:22:00,780
Mmm.
303
00:22:06,660 --> 00:22:09,180
It's very good.
304
00:22:09,180 --> 00:22:12,540
But it's very fiery!
It's like eating fire!
305
00:22:12,540 --> 00:22:15,660
Some chilli in here, I think.
306
00:22:27,340 --> 00:22:29,540
Thank you.
307
00:22:29,540 --> 00:22:32,060
I've been charmed by this
family home,
308
00:22:32,060 --> 00:22:36,020
but I can't help but think this
generous hospitality is partly
309
00:22:36,020 --> 00:22:40,460
to give me the impression that food
is in plentiful supply in the DPRK.
310
00:22:42,660 --> 00:22:44,140
It's been a busy day.
311
00:22:46,460 --> 00:22:52,060
So busy that it's easy to forget
it's my 75th birthday.
312
00:22:52,060 --> 00:22:55,460
But the guides and my crew are not
allowing me to forget.
313
00:23:00,060 --> 00:23:04,620
Wow! That is wonderful!
Thank you. Happy birthday!
314
00:23:04,620 --> 00:23:07,260
I never thought I'd make
it to my 75th!
315
00:23:08,820 --> 00:23:14,660
Let alone see a new airport and do
some planting in a field.
316
00:23:16,820 --> 00:23:17,980
Happy birthday!
317
00:23:20,140 --> 00:23:21,860
You know, however old you get,
318
00:23:21,860 --> 00:23:24,820
there's always a job
for you in the DPRK!
319
00:23:27,580 --> 00:23:29,300
Oh, cheers. Oh, thank you.
320
00:23:29,300 --> 00:23:30,300
Oh, that's lovely.
321
00:23:43,600 --> 00:23:47,280
The next morning, it's time to leave
Wonsan and head to a place
322
00:23:47,280 --> 00:23:50,400
that some say is the most
beautiful in North Korea.
323
00:23:52,400 --> 00:23:54,480
We're on our way to Mount Kumgang,
324
00:23:54,480 --> 00:23:58,040
and the weather's changed
completely from yesterday.
325
00:23:58,040 --> 00:24:01,200
In fact, Korean weather's a bit like
British weather - you get one
326
00:24:01,200 --> 00:24:06,200
day of sunshine,
the next day of gloom and drizzle.
327
00:24:06,200 --> 00:24:10,000
But it's rather attractive along
the coastline here.
328
00:24:13,480 --> 00:24:16,640
We're driving to the
Mount Kumgang region.
329
00:24:16,640 --> 00:24:20,520
It's just 80 miles away but,
with North Korean roads,
330
00:24:20,520 --> 00:24:23,320
it's another backbreaking
three-hour journey.
331
00:24:26,520 --> 00:24:29,480
Now we're suddenly into the
mountains.
332
00:24:29,480 --> 00:24:34,440
I say fairly suddenly - they have,
in the last few miles,
333
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:35,720
climbed a lot.
334
00:24:36,840 --> 00:24:40,560
As we arrive in Mount Kumgang,
the rain clears,
335
00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:43,840
allowing us to begin a hike up the
Kuryong Waterfall.
336
00:24:47,600 --> 00:24:49,120
After two weeks,
337
00:24:49,120 --> 00:24:53,280
Sohyang feels much more like a
friend than an official guide.
338
00:24:55,120 --> 00:24:59,280
The colour of those boulders are so
white compared to all this.
339
00:25:00,440 --> 00:25:05,800
It's beautiful. Yeah, the rocks are
unique. They are, aren't they?
340
00:25:05,800 --> 00:25:08,000
Do you like doing this, hiking?
341
00:25:08,000 --> 00:25:15,600
Yes, I look forward to getting some
fresh air and relax and
342
00:25:15,600 --> 00:25:18,200
thinking of nothing else
343
00:25:18,200 --> 00:25:21,080
but the nature. It's good.
344
00:25:21,080 --> 00:25:24,520
For the first time since
I arrived in the DPRK,
345
00:25:24,520 --> 00:25:26,840
I feel a great sense of freedom.
346
00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:29,000
Wow, look at that!
347
00:25:30,960 --> 00:25:32,440
The Rockies of North Korea.
348
00:25:34,520 --> 00:25:35,520
Take your pick.
349
00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:47,040
Kumgangsan means Diamond Mountain.
350
00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,000
And even on this cloudy day,
it is stunning.
351
00:25:58,320 --> 00:26:01,960
That's nice. We'll stop down here.
Shall we? Oops!
352
00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:05,200
Ah!
353
00:26:05,200 --> 00:26:08,840
I'm hoping this is a good place to
have a more open conversation
354
00:26:08,840 --> 00:26:10,440
about our two countries.
355
00:26:11,520 --> 00:26:15,720
I find your country so very
different from ours and yet,
356
00:26:15,720 --> 00:26:18,120
sometimes, very similar.
357
00:26:18,120 --> 00:26:22,920
How do you get your news of what's
going on in the country?
358
00:26:24,920 --> 00:26:31,240
By mass media - TVs and radios and
buying newspapers as well.
359
00:26:31,240 --> 00:26:36,120
What do they tell you about Britain,
how we live? Be honest.
360
00:26:36,120 --> 00:26:43,480
You can be honest. The British -
we feel... Yeah, I mean...
361
00:26:43,480 --> 00:26:48,200
By appearance,
you look so different. Yeah.
362
00:26:50,200 --> 00:26:53,320
I was thinking about our
way of life,
363
00:26:53,320 --> 00:26:58,280
which is really based on freedom of
speech and freedom of thought
364
00:26:58,280 --> 00:27:01,440
and people can wear what they want
and they can dress what they want
365
00:27:01,440 --> 00:27:06,040
and they can be as rude as they want
about their leaders, you know.
366
00:27:06,040 --> 00:27:10,760
Presumably, you think that's,
um...not a good thing?
367
00:27:10,760 --> 00:27:12,400
Er...
368
00:27:12,400 --> 00:27:15,560
It's your freedom,
you can do what you want,
369
00:27:15,560 --> 00:27:22,280
and we have got our own style,
and you have got your own style,
370
00:27:22,280 --> 00:27:27,480
and your citizens can do
what they want.
371
00:27:30,760 --> 00:27:35,720
And your citizens can do what
they want too? Yes.
372
00:27:36,960 --> 00:27:41,360
I mean, at home,
one difference between, I suppose,
373
00:27:41,360 --> 00:27:48,240
your culture and ours is that we can
be very rude about our leaders,
374
00:27:48,240 --> 00:27:53,760
and here I feel you just have a
different way of looking at things.
375
00:27:53,760 --> 00:27:57,520
Because our leaders are very great,
376
00:27:57,520 --> 00:28:01,680
and the leaders are not
individual - they are...
377
00:28:07,560 --> 00:28:13,480
They represent us, the masses.
So we cannot criticise ourselves.
378
00:28:14,920 --> 00:28:16,960
Can we?
379
00:28:16,960 --> 00:28:20,760
Criticising our leaders
is like offending...
380
00:28:21,880 --> 00:28:24,880
..criticising ourselves too.
381
00:28:26,920 --> 00:28:28,280
What do you think?
382
00:28:28,280 --> 00:28:30,720
Well, I think of my leaders that,
sometimes, they're good,
383
00:28:30,720 --> 00:28:31,960
sometimes, they're bad.
384
00:28:33,080 --> 00:28:36,200
I think they make some wrong
decisions and occasionally
385
00:28:36,200 --> 00:28:43,000
some right decisions and, you know,
that's the way they are.
386
00:28:44,920 --> 00:28:49,560
Your leaders, if I may respectfully
say, are very different,
387
00:28:49,560 --> 00:28:54,480
and I absolutely respect the respect
that you have for your leaders.
388
00:28:54,480 --> 00:28:57,040
We respect our feelings.
Yeah, absolutely.
389
00:28:57,040 --> 00:29:00,640
Our feelings, we respect. I wouldn't
want to change your feelings at all.
390
00:29:01,920 --> 00:29:04,920
But it would just be nice to talk
about them, really.
391
00:29:04,920 --> 00:29:07,320
I wouldn't want to change
your feelings.
392
00:29:07,320 --> 00:29:10,240
That's what you feel,
and you're an intelligent person.
393
00:29:10,240 --> 00:29:15,680
And that's why we are so different
from you. If you find...
394
00:29:15,680 --> 00:29:18,480
Yeah. But you and I are not
that different.
395
00:29:18,480 --> 00:29:20,040
I mean, we can talk about things,
396
00:29:20,040 --> 00:29:23,320
and we have similar
intelligence about things.
397
00:29:23,320 --> 00:29:28,440
That's good too, so I absolutely
respect the respect that you
398
00:29:28,440 --> 00:29:31,080
have for them and the way you
feel about them, OK?
399
00:29:31,080 --> 00:29:32,920
Yeah. I really do.
400
00:29:36,360 --> 00:29:39,960
I know these conversations are not
easy for Sohyang,
401
00:29:39,960 --> 00:29:43,720
but what it has shown me is how
every North Korean ties their
402
00:29:43,720 --> 00:29:46,040
identity to that of the
great leaders.
403
00:29:48,040 --> 00:29:54,520
Although I've had many discussions,
and Sohyang, my guide,
404
00:29:54,520 --> 00:29:56,320
is very chatty,
405
00:29:56,320 --> 00:29:59,480
she's very funny and we've had
quite uninhibited discussions,
406
00:29:59,480 --> 00:30:03,520
but, oh, it's so difficult whenever
you get onto any subject
407
00:30:03,520 --> 00:30:08,040
concerning the leadership.
I mean, they just stop.
408
00:30:08,040 --> 00:30:10,400
I think it's just a very,
very difficult thing for them to
409
00:30:10,400 --> 00:30:13,880
talk about because you don't talk
about the leaders.
410
00:30:13,880 --> 00:30:16,480
As soon as you talk about them,
you demean them in some way.
411
00:30:16,480 --> 00:30:20,000
I think that's what it is,
and I'm finding that quite tricky.
412
00:30:22,680 --> 00:30:27,400
But having said all that,
we have been able to film every day,
413
00:30:27,400 --> 00:30:30,960
we've picked up a lot of material,
and I'm a great believer that,
414
00:30:30,960 --> 00:30:33,600
sometimes,
just seeing the way people look,
415
00:30:33,600 --> 00:30:35,320
the way people talk,
the way they eat,
416
00:30:35,320 --> 00:30:37,320
just little glimpses of that,
417
00:30:37,320 --> 00:30:40,920
and the way they cultivate the
farms or whatever,
418
00:30:40,920 --> 00:30:45,560
gives you a real insight into what's
happening in the country.
419
00:30:52,600 --> 00:30:56,280
The next morning,
we make a speedy return to Wonsan.
420
00:30:58,320 --> 00:31:01,960
Thankfully, this is my last
North Korean road trip.
421
00:31:03,360 --> 00:31:06,960
After this, I hope to catch a plane
from Wonsan Airport up to
422
00:31:06,960 --> 00:31:10,960
Mount Paektu - the place where the
story of the Kim dynasty began.
423
00:31:12,480 --> 00:31:15,560
And when we arrive at the ghost
terminal building,
424
00:31:15,560 --> 00:31:17,960
things seem to have changed.
425
00:31:17,960 --> 00:31:21,320
Ah! There are people everywhere,
and a gate.
426
00:31:23,960 --> 00:31:28,360
Hey, a boarding card! Boarding card.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
427
00:31:28,360 --> 00:31:34,560
Yeah. Bye-bye. But after checking
in, things seem to grind to a halt.
428
00:31:39,280 --> 00:31:43,480
Well, there's been a bit of a hiccup
here because the mist you can
429
00:31:43,480 --> 00:31:46,120
see is cloaking Wonsan Airport,
430
00:31:46,120 --> 00:31:50,440
and the plane that's taking us up
to Mount Paektu cannot take off
431
00:31:50,440 --> 00:31:55,960
from Pyongyang to come here
until this is all cleared, so we
432
00:31:55,960 --> 00:32:00,200
don't quite know when we're going to
actually see the plane and
433
00:32:00,200 --> 00:32:05,880
get on board. So, meanwhile,
we just hang around the airport.
434
00:32:07,160 --> 00:32:10,520
At least it's not going to get
too crowded because this is
435
00:32:10,520 --> 00:32:11,760
the only flight in the day.
436
00:32:16,320 --> 00:32:20,080
After our slightly awkward
conversation yesterday,
437
00:32:20,080 --> 00:32:22,680
I'm hoping Sohyang is not
too annoyed with me.
438
00:32:25,120 --> 00:32:27,160
The Fish Slapping Dance!
439
00:32:27,160 --> 00:32:29,080
And maybe this might make amends.
440
00:32:30,600 --> 00:32:34,600
This is what I used to do a long
time ago before I became...
441
00:32:37,840 --> 00:32:38,840
..a serious person.
442
00:32:39,960 --> 00:32:40,960
That's me.
443
00:32:55,000 --> 00:32:58,200
So is this a live fish or
a dead fish?
444
00:32:58,200 --> 00:33:02,160
Oh, it was a dead fish, yes,
but a live human being!
445
00:33:02,160 --> 00:33:04,360
I was alive - the fish was dead.
A real hit?
446
00:33:04,360 --> 00:33:09,840
Yeah, yeah, hit quite hard,
it was a big pike. Mm. Mm. So funny.
447
00:33:13,560 --> 00:33:16,120
But suddenly, the airport manager,
448
00:33:16,120 --> 00:33:18,960
who frankly has little else to do,
has some news.
449
00:33:26,800 --> 00:33:31,480
We are taking off, but...
But it'll be 40 minutes.
450
00:33:31,480 --> 00:33:35,720
After hours of inertia,
there's a sudden rush of activity,
451
00:33:35,720 --> 00:33:37,480
and the plane arrives from
Pyongyang.
452
00:33:39,120 --> 00:33:42,200
Air Koryo,
the country's national airline,
453
00:33:42,200 --> 00:33:44,720
has one of the oldest
fleets in the world.
454
00:33:44,720 --> 00:33:47,800
This one was built in 1967.
455
00:33:47,800 --> 00:33:51,000
Well, it's happening. Here is our
plane.
456
00:33:51,000 --> 00:33:53,800
We think it's an Antonov, a Russian
plane.
457
00:33:57,120 --> 00:34:00,240
It says 6F, but there isn't any...
458
00:34:00,240 --> 00:34:02,200
There's no 6F.
459
00:34:02,200 --> 00:34:04,840
So, I think I'll just sit here.
460
00:34:06,240 --> 00:34:09,200
Finally, we're on our way.
461
00:34:17,120 --> 00:34:23,080
This 50-year-old plane is taking
me 500 miles north, to Mount Paektu,
462
00:34:23,080 --> 00:34:25,040
close to the border with China.
463
00:34:28,800 --> 00:34:31,480
Very comfortable. I wouldn't say the
seats are functional.
464
00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:34,480
That's what the wonderful
thing about them.
465
00:34:34,480 --> 00:34:36,400
They've got all of these nice
surfaces,
466
00:34:36,400 --> 00:34:38,240
and there's carpet on the floor.
467
00:34:38,240 --> 00:34:42,280
Look at this sort of wallpaper,
which is, you know...
468
00:34:42,280 --> 00:34:44,040
This is 1960s travel,
469
00:34:44,040 --> 00:34:46,560
not 21st-century travel.
470
00:34:46,560 --> 00:34:49,160
You do feel quite comfortable here.
471
00:34:49,160 --> 00:34:52,200
In economy, flying to Mount Paektu
on Koryo airlines.
472
00:34:54,120 --> 00:34:58,920
After a while, the landscape below
becomes increasingly mountainous.
473
00:35:05,680 --> 00:35:08,760
I'm relieved when the wheels
eventually touch down.
474
00:35:11,280 --> 00:35:12,800
As we disembark,
475
00:35:12,800 --> 00:35:16,280
I find myself in a very
different-looking part of the country.
476
00:35:21,280 --> 00:35:27,080
Well, Mount Paektu - the mountain we have
come all of this way to see - is just there.
477
00:35:27,080 --> 00:35:28,840
Just below where the sun is setting.
478
00:35:28,840 --> 00:35:33,040
I mean, it is not one great peak,
it's a sort of group of mountains.
479
00:35:33,040 --> 00:35:34,400
It is out really over there,
480
00:35:34,400 --> 00:35:39,360
just where the sun and the dark
clouds are gathering.
481
00:35:39,360 --> 00:35:42,760
So you can't actually see it,
but...
482
00:35:42,760 --> 00:35:44,960
..you can sort of feel it.
483
00:35:44,960 --> 00:35:46,320
But as the sun sets,
484
00:35:46,320 --> 00:35:50,840
the clouds clear and the snowy
peaks reveal themselves.
485
00:35:54,400 --> 00:35:57,960
Ancient Korean legend has it that
the mythical leader, Dangun,
486
00:35:57,960 --> 00:36:03,480
who created Korea, was born at Mount
Paektu thousands of years ago.
487
00:36:03,480 --> 00:36:07,480
But this area is also home to a
slightly more recent legend.
488
00:36:14,000 --> 00:36:16,080
After we arrive at the hotel,
489
00:36:16,080 --> 00:36:19,960
our taste buds are tantalised by
a barbecue dinner.
490
00:36:23,840 --> 00:36:25,520
Mm. Good.
491
00:36:25,520 --> 00:36:28,640
Basically a potato...
492
00:36:28,640 --> 00:36:33,000
..that's been posted on the fire.
It is quite dark, you can see that.
493
00:36:33,000 --> 00:36:35,680
Well, you can't see it,
and I can't see it.
494
00:36:35,680 --> 00:36:38,080
I could be eating a dead mouse.
495
00:36:38,080 --> 00:36:40,320
But, actually I'm told it is a
potato.
496
00:36:42,800 --> 00:36:45,160
Actually, it's rather good.
497
00:36:45,160 --> 00:36:46,520
Thank you.
498
00:36:47,960 --> 00:36:49,560
Thank you.
499
00:36:49,560 --> 00:36:53,600
It's hard to believe that these
rustic surroundings gave
500
00:36:53,600 --> 00:36:55,720
birth to the ruling Kim dynasty.
501
00:37:06,340 --> 00:37:10,580
The next morning, I wake up in the
far north of the DPRK,
502
00:37:10,580 --> 00:37:16,460
and at a hotel which I'm not sure
often sees actual guests.
503
00:37:16,460 --> 00:37:20,980
But those who make it this far are
probably here to see Mount Paektu,
504
00:37:20,980 --> 00:37:25,860
the place where Kim Il-sung, the first leader
of the DPRK, made a name for himself.
505
00:37:27,140 --> 00:37:28,900
And just a few miles away,
506
00:37:28,900 --> 00:37:32,300
there are the remains of the camp
where he lived with his family.
507
00:37:37,780 --> 00:37:41,500
I'm given a military guide to show
me around the rebuilt camp.
508
00:37:54,100 --> 00:37:56,980
During the first half of
the 20th century,
509
00:37:56,980 --> 00:38:00,740
Korea was under hostile
occupation by Japan.
510
00:38:00,740 --> 00:38:03,220
Kim Il-sung first gained a
reputation
511
00:38:03,220 --> 00:38:07,460
as a heroic resistance fighter in
the 1930s.
512
00:38:07,460 --> 00:38:11,260
It was also here that the future
leader of the DPRK, Kim Jong-il was
513
00:38:11,260 --> 00:38:13,380
apparently born.
514
00:38:41,740 --> 00:38:43,940
A miraculous moment.
515
00:38:43,940 --> 00:38:47,780
It's a great story, but it is
widely thought that Kim Jong-il was
516
00:38:47,780 --> 00:38:50,580
actually born in communist Russia.
517
00:38:50,580 --> 00:38:54,020
How much fighting King Il-sung did
here is up for debate.
518
00:38:56,700 --> 00:38:59,860
But while the west sees the Kim
dynasty as a dictatorship,
519
00:38:59,860 --> 00:39:03,100
here they are worshipped as heroes.
520
00:39:03,100 --> 00:39:07,340
Defending their country against
Japanese and American invaders.
521
00:39:07,340 --> 00:39:10,460
It is this version of history that
has helped them to hold on to
522
00:39:10,460 --> 00:39:13,380
power for 70 years.
523
00:39:14,820 --> 00:39:17,820
Well, that is a pretty sensational
view of Mount Paektu.
524
00:39:17,820 --> 00:39:21,500
This is a place where a lot
comes together.
525
00:39:21,500 --> 00:39:24,100
1000s of years of Korean history,
526
00:39:24,100 --> 00:39:27,340
symbolised, enshrined by Mount
Paektu itself,
527
00:39:27,340 --> 00:39:29,660
and then just behind
me here,
528
00:39:29,660 --> 00:39:34,260
the monument of the founder of
the DPRK, Kim Il-sung.
529
00:39:34,260 --> 00:39:38,180
The past and the present coming
together here.
530
00:39:38,180 --> 00:39:40,060
As I look at Mount Paektu,
531
00:39:40,060 --> 00:39:45,740
a place that has been sacred to all
Koreans for thousands of years,
532
00:39:45,740 --> 00:39:48,660
I can't help but wonder if the great
leaders and their giant
533
00:39:48,660 --> 00:39:51,620
statues will be around
quite as long.
534
00:39:53,620 --> 00:39:55,980
But it's time for me to leave.
535
00:39:55,980 --> 00:39:59,900
Our plane is ready to take us back
to the bright lights of Pyongyang.
536
00:40:01,260 --> 00:40:04,580
My time in North Korea is
drawing to a close.
537
00:40:19,140 --> 00:40:21,140
It's my last morning in Pyongyang...
538
00:40:23,060 --> 00:40:26,940
..and this city, which felt totally
alien two weeks ago,
539
00:40:26,940 --> 00:40:28,900
is now strangely familiar.
540
00:40:30,220 --> 00:40:32,940
But there's one area I've yet to
explore.
541
00:40:32,940 --> 00:40:34,980
A brand-new development of
apartments,
542
00:40:34,980 --> 00:40:38,260
shops and restaurants on the bank
of the Taedong River.
543
00:40:41,380 --> 00:40:44,820
This is the North Korea of
the 21st-century...
544
00:40:44,820 --> 00:40:47,740
And it's changing.
545
00:40:47,740 --> 00:40:50,180
This is called Mirae Street,
which means, I think,
546
00:40:50,180 --> 00:40:52,180
"future scientist street".
547
00:40:54,380 --> 00:41:00,860
And it's one of the miracles of the
DPRK, because this street,
548
00:41:00,860 --> 00:41:05,300
which contains these amazing
blocks, was all built in a year.
549
00:41:07,260 --> 00:41:12,060
It takes me about a year to get
the bedroom painted.
550
00:41:12,060 --> 00:41:15,980
Let alone build an entire
modern city street.
551
00:41:19,500 --> 00:41:23,180
But even just to build this
stuff that quickly,
552
00:41:23,180 --> 00:41:28,940
shows ambition and a sense of
national commitment.
553
00:41:28,940 --> 00:41:33,420
Commitment to making this look
like a modern city.
554
00:41:35,460 --> 00:41:39,660
Since becoming leader, Kim
Jong-un has promised to revitalise
555
00:41:39,660 --> 00:41:41,300
the economy of the DPRK.
556
00:41:41,300 --> 00:41:45,140
Many people say that free-market
forces are slowly taking hold,
557
00:41:45,140 --> 00:41:48,980
as the old ideals of communism
slip away.
558
00:41:48,980 --> 00:41:50,900
Maybe in five years' time,
559
00:41:50,900 --> 00:41:55,140
the street will be full of
McDonald's and adverts for iPhones.
560
00:41:55,140 --> 00:41:59,620
If so, I'm glad to have seen it
before it becomes like
561
00:41:59,620 --> 00:42:01,420
everywhere else.
562
00:42:09,980 --> 00:42:13,540
When I first looked out over
Pyongyang, I can remember
563
00:42:13,540 --> 00:42:18,460
feeling very wary, apprehensive.
564
00:42:18,460 --> 00:42:22,260
It was all very unfamiliar and
slightly threatening.
565
00:42:23,420 --> 00:42:28,300
Now, two weeks later,
I must say I feel much more relaxed.
566
00:42:28,300 --> 00:42:32,260
I feel almost part of the city.
I feel I know it much more.
567
00:42:32,260 --> 00:42:34,940
I certainly feel less threatened.
568
00:42:34,940 --> 00:42:39,300
I know that the ideology here
permeates every single aspect
569
00:42:39,300 --> 00:42:45,340
of life, and I know that we've
not seen everything.
570
00:42:45,340 --> 00:42:50,460
And yet, what I have seen feels...
571
00:42:50,460 --> 00:42:52,620
..well, it doesn't feel grim.
572
00:42:52,620 --> 00:42:54,220
It doesn't feel brutal,
573
00:42:54,220 --> 00:42:56,140
as some would have us think.
574
00:42:58,100 --> 00:43:01,820
It is actually, I would say,
not an unhappy place.
575
00:43:01,820 --> 00:43:05,140
But it feels to me that this
country is at a crossroads.
576
00:43:05,140 --> 00:43:08,180
On the one hand, it wants to open
up to the wider world,
577
00:43:08,180 --> 00:43:10,940
to expand culturally and
economically.
578
00:43:10,940 --> 00:43:12,540
But on the other,
579
00:43:12,540 --> 00:43:15,260
the system here seems intent on
keeping the population under
580
00:43:15,260 --> 00:43:18,300
the type of
authoritarian rule that can
581
00:43:18,300 --> 00:43:21,540
only persist in a closed and
repressive society.
582
00:43:23,300 --> 00:43:25,820
At some point in the near future,
583
00:43:25,820 --> 00:43:30,660
I feel the DPRK will have to
decide which way it wants to go.
584
00:43:32,900 --> 00:43:35,100
Thank you. Thank you very much.
585
00:43:35,100 --> 00:43:38,660
Thank you for everything. Yes. Yes.
I'm sure you will be a film star.
586
00:43:38,660 --> 00:43:40,820
And you have been brilliant.
587
00:43:40,820 --> 00:43:42,420
Oh, my lovely companion.
588
00:43:42,420 --> 00:43:45,140
I wish you all the best.
Thank you for looking after me.
589
00:43:45,140 --> 00:43:48,460
You've made an old man very happy.
590
00:43:48,460 --> 00:43:50,740
Anyway... lovely. Hope to see
you again. See you again.
591
00:43:50,740 --> 00:43:53,100
Come to London. We will.
592
00:43:53,100 --> 00:43:56,980
I would
love to show the guides my world,
593
00:43:56,980 --> 00:44:01,340
to see what they would make of it
all. For now, that's not possible.
594
00:44:02,700 --> 00:44:06,020
But events are moving fast and I
hope positive change is
595
00:44:06,020 --> 00:44:09,660
coming to the people of North Korea.
49079
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